I'm getting ready to glue up some panels for an electronics rack case
I'm building for a client. The longest panels will be 42".

In what I think was a table saw thread, maybe a year ago, someone
mentioned that they get a glue-up-ready edge joint with their table saw.
I do have a jointer, but I also have a good table saw with a good
blade, a long rip fence and a long outfeed table.

Any of you guys remember writing that?
Anyone else glue up panels with the saw cut alone?
Is there a better saw blade for this?


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

"-MIKE-" wrote in message
...
I'm getting ready to glue up some panels for an electronics rack case I'm
building for a client. The longest panels will be 42".

In what I think was a table saw thread, maybe a year ago, someone
mentioned that they get a glue-up-ready edge joint with their table saw. I
do have a jointer, but I also have a good table saw with a good blade, a
long rip fence and a long outfeed table.

Any of you guys remember writing that?
Anyone else glue up panels with the saw cut alone?
Is there a better saw blade for this?

Tablesaw is the only way I've ever glued up a panel. With a good blade, I
don't see the need for jointing. My blade is a Ridge Carbide, but I'm sure
many others leave a good finish also.

On 10/11/10 9:33 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

"-MIKE-" wrote in message
...
I'm getting ready to glue up some panels for an electronics rack case
I'm building for a client. The longest panels will be 42".

In what I think was a table saw thread, maybe a year ago, someone
mentioned that they get a glue-up-ready edge joint with their table
saw. I do have a jointer, but I also have a good table saw with a good
blade, a long rip fence and a long outfeed table.

Any of you guys remember writing that?
Anyone else glue up panels with the saw cut alone?
Is there a better saw blade for this?

Tablesaw is the only way I've ever glued up a panel. With a good blade,
I don't see the need for jointing. My blade is a Ridge Carbide, but I'm
sure many others leave a good finish also.

You may have been the poster I was thinking about, Ed.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 10/11/2010 9:27 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
I'm getting ready to glue up some panels for an electronics rack case
I'm building for a client. The longest panels will be 42".

In what I think was a table saw thread, maybe a year ago, someone
mentioned that they get a glue-up-ready edge joint with their table saw.
I do have a jointer, but I also have a good table saw with a good blade,
a long rip fence and a long outfeed table.

Any of you guys remember writing that?
Anyone else glue up panels with the saw cut alone?
Is there a better saw blade for this?

Freud makes a "glue line rip" blade that, IME, does just that.

Although I am partial to using a jointer for preparing edges for panel
glue up so that I can swap opposing edges to take advantage of
complimentary angles, thereby neutralizing even the slightest deviation
from 90 degrees in tool setup, I have used just the Freud blade for
smaller panels with excellent results.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)

On 10/11/10 9:40 PM, Swingman wrote:

Freud makes a "glue line rip" blade that, IME, does just that.


I've been looking at that blade.
It doesn't seem too expensive, especially considering I don't have a
great rip-only blade.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Swingman wrote:
....

Freud makes a "glue line rip" blade that, IME, does just that.

Although I am partial to using a jointer for preparing edges for panel
glue up so that I can swap opposing edges to take advantage of
complimentary angles, thereby neutralizing even the slightest deviation
from 90 degrees in tool setup, I have used just the Freud blade for
smaller panels with excellent results.

What he said (on both counts)...



--

In article ,
says...

I'm getting ready to glue up some panels for an electronics rack case
I'm building for a client. The longest panels will be 42".

In what I think was a table saw thread, maybe a year ago, someone
mentioned that they get a glue-up-ready edge joint with their table saw.
I do have a jointer, but I also have a good table saw with a good
blade, a long rip fence and a long outfeed table.

Any of you guys remember writing that?
Anyone else glue up panels with the saw cut alone?
Is there a better saw blade for this?

Forrest Woodworker II is the standard.

I use an Oldham (now sold as Porter-Cable) Signature which does fine.

If you're working with stock less than 1 inch thick and are willing to
go with separate blades for rip and crosscut, the Freud LU85 and LM74
for crosscut and rip respectively would be good choices--Freud says that
they do better than the Freud rip and crosscut blades that I have and
the ones I have do a fine job.

On 10/12/10 4:32 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
Forrest Woodworker II is the standard.

I use an Oldham (now sold as Porter-Cable) Signature which does fine.

If you're working with stock less than 1 inch thick and are willing to
go with separate blades for rip and crosscut, the Freud LU85 and LM74
for crosscut and rip respectively would be good choices--Freud says that
they do better than the Freud rip and crosscut blades that I have and
the ones I have do a fine job.


I have a high-tooth Freud on there, now which has served me very well.
I can get that LM74 for under 60 bucks, but have been looking for an
excuse to get a WWII.

Are you saying the WWII will have as good a finish as the LM74?


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 10/12/2010 10:47 AM, -MIKE- wrote:

I have a high-tooth Freud on there, now which has served me very well.
I can get that LM74 for under 60 bucks, but have been looking for an
excuse to get a WWII.

Are you saying the WWII will have as good a finish as the LM74?

Once you own a WWII you will never need an excuse to buy another. AAMOF,
I have two, and another is on my shopping list as we speak.

The two I will send two back for re-sharpening soon are going on eight
to ten years old and I felt it was time to spring for a new one with a
new job coming up.

As long as they continue to keep their old fashioned "Made in USA"
quality, my shop will never be without a Forrest WWII ...

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)

On 10/12/10 11:10 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 10/12/2010 10:47 AM, -MIKE- wrote:

I have a high-tooth Freud on there, now which has served me very well.
I can get that LM74 for under 60 bucks, but have been looking for an
excuse to get a WWII.

Are you saying the WWII will have as good a finish as the LM74?

Once you own a WWII you will never need an excuse to buy another. AAMOF,
I have two, and another is on my shopping list as we speak.

The two I will send two back for re-sharpening soon are going on eight
to ten years old and I felt it was time to spring for a new one with a
new job coming up.

As long as they continue to keep their old fashioned "Made in USA"
quality, my shop will never be without a Forrest WWII ...


Is that a yes on the glue line, then? :-)


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 10/12/2010 11:15 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 10/12/10 11:10 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 10/12/2010 10:47 AM, -MIKE- wrote:

I have a high-tooth Freud on there, now which has served me very well.
I can get that LM74 for under 60 bucks, but have been looking for an
excuse to get a WWII.

Are you saying the WWII will have as good a finish as the LM74?

Once you own a WWII you will never need an excuse to buy another. AAMOF,
I have two, and another is on my shopping list as we speak.

The two I will send two back for re-sharpening soon are going on eight
to ten years old and I felt it was time to spring for a new one with a
new job coming up.

As long as they continue to keep their old fashioned "Made in USA"
quality, my shop will never be without a Forrest WWII ...


Is that a yes on the glue line, then? :-)

Well, the WWII is a "combination" blade, optimized as an all purpose
blade that does an exceptional job either ripping or crosscutting.

The Freud Glue Line Rip is optimized, in tooth pattern and setting,
specifically for ripping, as well as for getting an exceptional cut.

In actual practice, and IME, either blade will work fine in most stock
for making glue line ready rip cuts.

That said, not all stock is the same and, particularly with thicker
hardwoods, I firmly believe that a high quality, dedicated "rip" blade
is the best tool for the job if you're not going to use the jointer.

When I spend a thousand dollars on material on a project, I want every
single advantage I can reasonably buy ... thus my preference for the
jointer in this situation; followed closely by the Freud GLR.

I would use the WWII and would more or less feel comfortable doing so,
but it would not be the first tool I would reach for.

The difference between mediocrity and supremacy is attention to detail.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)

In article ,
says...

On 10/12/10 4:32 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
Forrest Woodworker II is the standard.

I use an Oldham (now sold as Porter-Cable) Signature which does fine.

If you're working with stock less than 1 inch thick and are willing to
go with separate blades for rip and crosscut, the Freud LU85 and LM74
for crosscut and rip respectively would be good choices--Freud says that
they do better than the Freud rip and crosscut blades that I have and
the ones I have do a fine job.


I have a high-tooth Freud on there, now which has served me very well.
I can get that LM74 for under 60 bucks, but have been looking for an
excuse to get a WWII.

Are you saying the WWII will have as good a finish as the LM74?

WWII is a combination blade. I don't have one and have never felt the
need so can't say whether it gives a finish better than any of the
blades I do have, however I would not expect any combination blade to
give a finish as good as a purpose made rip or crosscut blade doing rip
or crosscut respectively.

On Tue, 12 Oct 2010 12:53:22 -0400, J. Clarke wrote:

WWII is a combination blade. I don't have one and have never felt the
need so can't say whether it gives a finish better than any of the
blades I do have, however I would not expect any combination blade to
give a finish as good as a purpose made rip or crosscut blade doing rip
or crosscut respectively.

I used to use the Freud rip and crosscut blades and they did a great
job. But since I bought a Freud Fusion I don't switch blades very often
- it's that good. But it's still not quite as good as the Freud rip
blade. It seems to be better than the Freud crosscut blade. And I no
longer use a plywood blade at all.

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

"-MIKE-" wrote in message
...
On 10/12/10 4:32 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
Forrest Woodworker II is the standard.

I use an Oldham (now sold as Porter-Cable) Signature which does fine.

If you're working with stock less than 1 inch thick and are willing to
go with separate blades for rip and crosscut, the Freud LU85 and LM74
for crosscut and rip respectively would be good choices--Freud says that
they do better than the Freud rip and crosscut blades that I have and
the ones I have do a fine job.


I have a high-tooth Freud on there, now which has served me very well.
I can get that LM74 for under 60 bucks, but have been looking for an
excuse to get a WWII.

Are you saying the WWII will have as good a finish as the LM74?


I quit swapping blades when I bought a WWII. I get a cut when ripping
normal thickness stock that is shiney smooth with out tooth marks. You
might be able to get a better cut from another blade buty what would be the
point. As it is the edge does not have to be sanded for appearance sake.
Now if you are going to be ripping THICK stock you might opt for a rip
blade. 10+ years and I only use a rip blade for ripping 2x4's.

On 10/11/10 10:27 PM, in article ,
"-MIKE-" wrote:

I'm getting ready to glue up some panels for an electronics rack case
I'm building for a client. The longest panels will be 42".

In what I think was a table saw thread, maybe a year ago, someone
mentioned that they get a glue-up-ready edge joint with their table saw.
I do have a jointer, but I also have a good table saw with a good
blade, a long rip fence and a long outfeed table.

It wasn't me, but I do glue ups with edges directly from the table saw. What
it requires is a good blade (Forrest WWII for me) and careful alignment of
the saw.

Note that you do need a good straight edge to run against the saw fence. A
jointer can be helpful in getting that starting point. You can achieve the
same thing with a sled that holds the board straight for the initial cut,
but that takes a bit of work to set up. Or you can go back to hand tools and
use a plane.

On 10/11/2010 9:27 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
I'm getting ready to glue up some panels for an electronics rack case I'm
building for a client. The longest panels will be 42".

In what I think was a table saw thread, maybe a year ago, someone mentioned
that they get a glue-up-ready edge joint with their table saw. I do have a
jointer, but I also have a good table saw with a good blade, a long rip fence
and a long outfeed table.

Any of you guys remember writing that?
Anyone else glue up panels with the saw cut alone?
Is there a better saw blade for this?

I do it all the time with a Forrest Woodworker II mounted in my finely tuned
Unisaw, and never think twice about it.

--
See Nad. See Nad go. Go Nad!
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

"-MIKE-" wrote in message
...
I'm getting ready to glue up some panels for an electronics rack case I'm
building for a client. The longest panels will be 42".

In what I think was a table saw thread, maybe a year ago, someone
mentioned that they get a glue-up-ready edge joint with their table saw. I
do have a jointer, but I also have a good table saw with a good blade, a
long rip fence and a long outfeed table.

Any of you guys remember writing that?
Anyone else glue up panels with the saw cut alone?
Is there a better saw blade for this?


I only use the TS and had a jointer for about 25 years. I never used the
jointer, so to speak and got rid of it about 6 months ago.

IMHO for the most part it is hard to run an 8' board through common sized
jointers. If my board is not straight I use a sled to straighten the edge
on my TS. Typically my TS edges come out better than they ever did from my
jointer.

I think it's a unanimous verdict from the jury. Thanks guys.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Oct 12, 12:40*pm, -MIKE- wrote:
I think it's a unanimous verdict from the jury. *Thanks guys.

--

* -MIKE-

* "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
* * *--Elvin Jones *(1927-2004)
* --
*http://mikedrums.com
*
* ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Not so fast. TruMatch router bit is the way to go for end-to-end panel
glue-ups. IMHO. (Wavy bit)
Once you get used to that system, nothing else will do.

On Oct 12, 1:35*pm, Robatoy wrote:
On Oct 12, 12:40*pm, -MIKE- wrote:

I think it's a unanimous verdict from the jury. *Thanks guys.

--

* -MIKE-

* "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
* * *--Elvin Jones *(1927-2004)
* --
*http://mikedrums.com
*
* ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Not so fast. TruMatch router bit is the way to go for end-to-end panel
glue-ups. IMHO. (Wavy bit)
Once you get used to that system, nothing else will do.

How rude of me...

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o.../TrueMatch.jpg

http://www.whitesiderouterbits.is.co...uter_Bits.aspx

On Oct 12, 1:45*pm, Robatoy wrote:
On Oct 12, 1:35*pm, Robatoy wrote:





On Oct 12, 12:40*pm, -MIKE- wrote:

I think it's a unanimous verdict from the jury. *Thanks guys.

--

* -MIKE-

* "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
* * *--Elvin Jones *(1927-2004)
* --
*http://mikedrums.com
*
* ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Not so fast. TruMatch router bit is the way to go for end-to-end panel
glue-ups. IMHO. (Wavy bit)
Once you get used to that system, nothing else will do.

How rude of me...

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o.../TrueMatch.jpg

http://www.whitesiderouterbits.is.co...uter_Bits.aspx

*coughs*..

we try

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o.../TrueMatch.jpg

On Tue, 12 Oct 2010 10:45:53 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy
wrote:

On Oct 12, 1:35*pm, Robatoy wrote:
On Oct 12, 12:40*pm, -MIKE- wrote:

I think it's a unanimous verdict from the jury. *Thanks guys.

--

* -MIKE-

* "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
* * *--Elvin Jones *(1927-2004)
* --
*http://mikedrums.com
*
* ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Not so fast. TruMatch router bit is the way to go for end-to-end panel
glue-ups. IMHO. (Wavy bit)
Once you get used to that system, nothing else will do.

How rude of me...

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o.../TrueMatch.jpg

http://www.whitesiderouterbits.is.co...uter_Bits.aspx

Purty cool, ensuring flatness while mating. What's the process to set
up the offset?

--
Ask not what the world needs. Ask what makes you come
alive... then go do it. Because what the world needs
is people who have come alive. -- Howard Thurman

On Oct 12, 6:40*pm, Larry Jaques
wrote:
On Tue, 12 Oct 2010 10:45:53 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy





wrote:
On Oct 12, 1:35*pm, Robatoy wrote:
On Oct 12, 12:40*pm, -MIKE- wrote:

I think it's a unanimous verdict from the jury. *Thanks guys.

--

* -MIKE-

* "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
* * *--Elvin Jones *(1927-2004)
* --
*http://mikedrums.com
*
* ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Not so fast. TruMatch router bit is the way to go for end-to-end panel
glue-ups. IMHO. (Wavy bit)
Once you get used to that system, nothing else will do.

How rude of me...

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o.../TrueMatch.jpg

http://www.whitesiderouterbits.is.co...uter_Bits.aspx

Purty cool, ensuring flatness while mating. *What's the process to set
up the offset?

--
Ask not what the world needs. Ask what makes you come
alive... then go do it. Because what the world needs
is people who have come alive. * * *-- Howard Thurman

The base has the offset. Half of it is .125 higher.

"Larry Jaques" wrote


Purty cool, ensuring flatness while mating. What's the process to set
up the offset?

Flatness while mating. Isn't that what they used to call the Methodist
position?

Max

On 10/12/10 12:35 PM, Robatoy wrote:
On Oct 12, 12:40 pm, wrote:
I think it's a unanimous verdict from the jury. Thanks guys.

--

-MIKE-

Not so fast. TruMatch router bit is the way to go for end-to-end panel
glue-ups. IMHO. (Wavy bit)
Once you get used to that system, nothing else will do.


Oh crap. Go away, would you!?



--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Oct 12, 1:51*pm, -MIKE- wrote:
On 10/12/10 12:35 PM, Robatoy wrote:

On Oct 12, 12:40 pm, *wrote:
I think it's a unanimous verdict from the jury. *Thanks guys.

--

* *-MIKE-

Not so fast. TruMatch router bit is the way to go for end-to-end panel
glue-ups. IMHO. (Wavy bit)
Once you get used to that system, nothing else will do.

Oh crap. *Go away, would you!?

--

* -MIKE-

* "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
* * *--Elvin Jones *(1927-2004)
* --
*http://mikedrums.com
*
* ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Well, Mike.... I have glued up, end-to-end panels of justabout any
veneered panels with the kind of results that made me a believer in a
hurry. Hundreds of them. (YES, Robert....hundreds)
The fact that is a solid surface joining technique doesn't make it
less effective with anything else.
It levels, extends the glue line (a half inch panel becomes a 5/8"
wide glue line) and when using a proper fence, you get that perfect
edge time and time gain.
It works, dammit.

On 10/12/10 1:01 PM, Robatoy wrote:
Not so fast. TruMatch router bit is the way to go for end-to-end panel
glue-ups. IMHO. (Wavy bit)
Once you get used to that system, nothing else will do.

Oh crap. Go away, would you!?

--

-MIKE-


Well, Mike.... I have glued up, end-to-end panels of justabout any
veneered panels with the kind of results that made me a believer in a
hurry. Hundreds of them. (YES, Robert....hundreds)
The fact that is a solid surface joining technique doesn't make it
less effective with anything else.
It levels, extends the glue line (a half inch panel becomes a 5/8"
wide glue line) and when using a proper fence, you get that perfect
edge time and time gain.
It works, dammit.

I'm intrigued, believe me. I see that Freud has one, too.
I'm still having trouble finding a link to the "base" that I assume gets
you a perfect offset in height between the left and right pieces to be
joined.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Mon, 11 Oct 2010 21:27:17 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote:

I'm getting ready to glue up some panels for an electronics rack case
I'm building for a client. The longest panels will be 42".

In what I think was a table saw thread, maybe a year ago, someone
mentioned that they get a glue-up-ready edge joint with their table saw.
I do have a jointer, but I also have a good table saw with a good
blade, a long rip fence and a long outfeed table.

This thread was starting to make me feel inadequate about my table
saw, because inspite of having all the fancy blades mentioned here no
way in hell can I go straight to a glue up.

Then I flattened a cherry slab that had a twist in it on the cnc and
felt better about things

-Kevin

On Oct 13, 6:24*pm, Kevin wrote:
On Mon, 11 Oct 2010 21:27:17 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote:

I'm getting ready to glue up some panels for an electronics rack case
I'm building for a client. *The longest panels will be 42".

In what I think was a table saw thread, maybe a year ago, someone
mentioned that they get a glue-up-ready edge joint with their table saw.
*I do have a jointer, but I also have a good table saw with a good
blade, a long rip fence and a long outfeed table.

This thread was starting to make me feel inadequate about my table
saw, because inspite of having all the fancy blades mentioned here no
way in hell can I go straight to a glue up. *

Then I flattened a cherry slab that had a twist in it on the cnc and
felt better about things

-Kevin

Fun, huh?

On Wed, 13 Oct 2010 16:16:00 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy
wrote:

On Oct 13, 6:24*pm, Kevin wrote:

This thread was starting to make me feel inadequate about my table
saw, because inspite of having all the fancy blades mentioned here no
way in hell can I go straight to a glue up. *

Then I flattened a cherry slab that had a twist in it on the cnc and
felt better about things

-Kevin

Fun, huh?

Yeah, but then you make me feel inadequate about my cnc

-Kevin

On Oct 12, 10:27*am, -MIKE- wrote:
I'm getting ready to glue up some panels for an electronics rack case
I'm building for a client. *The longest panels will be 42".

In what I think was a table saw thread, maybe a year ago, someone
mentioned that they get a glue-up-ready edge joint with their table saw.
* I do have a jointer, but I also have a good table saw with a good
blade, a long rip fence and a long outfeed table.

Any of you guys remember writing that?
Anyone else glue up panels with the saw cut alone?
Is there a better saw blade for this?

--

* -MIKE-

* "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
* * *--Elvin Jones *(1927-2004)
* --
*http://mikedrums.com
*
* ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

I remember that an electrical tool can do this easily.

----------------
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to trading furniture, plywood, timbers, hardwood floors, MDF, HDF,
tropical logs.