I'm getting ready to glue up some panels for an electronics rack case
I'm building for a client. The longest panels will be 42".

In what I think was a table saw thread, maybe a year ago, someone
mentioned that they get a glue-up-ready edge joint with their table saw.
I do have a jointer, but I also have a good table saw with a good
blade, a long rip fence and a long outfeed table.

Any of you guys remember writing that?
Anyone else glue up panels with the saw cut alone?
Is there a better saw blade for this?


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

"-MIKE-" wrote in message
...
I'm getting ready to glue up some panels for an electronics rack case I'm
building for a client. The longest panels will be 42".

In what I think was a table saw thread, maybe a year ago, someone
mentioned that they get a glue-up-ready edge joint with their table saw. I
do have a jointer, but I also have a good table saw with a good blade, a
long rip fence and a long outfeed table.

Any of you guys remember writing that?
Anyone else glue up panels with the saw cut alone?
Is there a better saw blade for this?

Tablesaw is the only way I've ever glued up a panel. With a good blade, I
don't see the need for jointing. My blade is a Ridge Carbide, but I'm sure
many others leave a good finish also.

On 10/11/2010 9:27 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
I'm getting ready to glue up some panels for an electronics rack case
I'm building for a client. The longest panels will be 42".

In what I think was a table saw thread, maybe a year ago, someone
mentioned that they get a glue-up-ready edge joint with their table saw.
I do have a jointer, but I also have a good table saw with a good blade,
a long rip fence and a long outfeed table.

Any of you guys remember writing that?
Anyone else glue up panels with the saw cut alone?
Is there a better saw blade for this?

Freud makes a "glue line rip" blade that, IME, does just that.

Although I am partial to using a jointer for preparing edges for panel
glue up so that I can swap opposing edges to take advantage of
complimentary angles, thereby neutralizing even the slightest deviation
from 90 degrees in tool setup, I have used just the Freud blade for
smaller panels with excellent results.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)

On 10/11/10 9:33 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

"-MIKE-" wrote in message
...
I'm getting ready to glue up some panels for an electronics rack case
I'm building for a client. The longest panels will be 42".

In what I think was a table saw thread, maybe a year ago, someone
mentioned that they get a glue-up-ready edge joint with their table
saw. I do have a jointer, but I also have a good table saw with a good
blade, a long rip fence and a long outfeed table.

Any of you guys remember writing that?
Anyone else glue up panels with the saw cut alone?
Is there a better saw blade for this?

Tablesaw is the only way I've ever glued up a panel. With a good blade,
I don't see the need for jointing. My blade is a Ridge Carbide, but I'm
sure many others leave a good finish also.

You may have been the poster I was thinking about, Ed.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 10/11/10 9:40 PM, Swingman wrote:

Freud makes a "glue line rip" blade that, IME, does just that.


I've been looking at that blade.
It doesn't seem too expensive, especially considering I don't have a
great rip-only blade.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

In article ,
says...

I'm getting ready to glue up some panels for an electronics rack case
I'm building for a client. The longest panels will be 42".

In what I think was a table saw thread, maybe a year ago, someone
mentioned that they get a glue-up-ready edge joint with their table saw.
I do have a jointer, but I also have a good table saw with a good
blade, a long rip fence and a long outfeed table.

Any of you guys remember writing that?
Anyone else glue up panels with the saw cut alone?
Is there a better saw blade for this?

Forrest Woodworker II is the standard.

I use an Oldham (now sold as Porter-Cable) Signature which does fine.

If you're working with stock less than 1 inch thick and are willing to
go with separate blades for rip and crosscut, the Freud LU85 and LM74
for crosscut and rip respectively would be good choices--Freud says that
they do better than the Freud rip and crosscut blades that I have and
the ones I have do a fine job.

On 10/11/10 10:27 PM, in article ,
"-MIKE-" wrote:

I'm getting ready to glue up some panels for an electronics rack case
I'm building for a client. The longest panels will be 42".

In what I think was a table saw thread, maybe a year ago, someone
mentioned that they get a glue-up-ready edge joint with their table saw.
I do have a jointer, but I also have a good table saw with a good
blade, a long rip fence and a long outfeed table.

It wasn't me, but I do glue ups with edges directly from the table saw. What
it requires is a good blade (Forrest WWII for me) and careful alignment of
the saw.

Note that you do need a good straight edge to run against the saw fence. A
jointer can be helpful in getting that starting point. You can achieve the
same thing with a sled that holds the board straight for the initial cut,
but that takes a bit of work to set up. Or you can go back to hand tools and
use a plane.

Swingman wrote:
....

Freud makes a "glue line rip" blade that, IME, does just that.

Although I am partial to using a jointer for preparing edges for panel
glue up so that I can swap opposing edges to take advantage of
complimentary angles, thereby neutralizing even the slightest deviation
from 90 degrees in tool setup, I have used just the Freud blade for
smaller panels with excellent results.

What he said (on both counts)...



--

On 10/11/2010 9:27 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
I'm getting ready to glue up some panels for an electronics rack case I'm
building for a client. The longest panels will be 42".

In what I think was a table saw thread, maybe a year ago, someone mentioned
that they get a glue-up-ready edge joint with their table saw. I do have a
jointer, but I also have a good table saw with a good blade, a long rip fence
and a long outfeed table.

Any of you guys remember writing that?
Anyone else glue up panels with the saw cut alone?
Is there a better saw blade for this?

I do it all the time with a Forrest Woodworker II mounted in my finely tuned
Unisaw, and never think twice about it.

--
See Nad. See Nad go. Go Nad!
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

"-MIKE-" wrote in message
...
I'm getting ready to glue up some panels for an electronics rack case I'm
building for a client. The longest panels will be 42".

In what I think was a table saw thread, maybe a year ago, someone
mentioned that they get a glue-up-ready edge joint with their table saw. I
do have a jointer, but I also have a good table saw with a good blade, a
long rip fence and a long outfeed table.

Any of you guys remember writing that?
Anyone else glue up panels with the saw cut alone?
Is there a better saw blade for this?


I only use the TS and had a jointer for about 25 years. I never used the
jointer, so to speak and got rid of it about 6 months ago.

IMHO for the most part it is hard to run an 8' board through common sized
jointers. If my board is not straight I use a sled to straighten the edge
on my TS. Typically my TS edges come out better than they ever did from my
jointer.

On 10/12/10 4:32 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
Forrest Woodworker II is the standard.

I use an Oldham (now sold as Porter-Cable) Signature which does fine.

If you're working with stock less than 1 inch thick and are willing to
go with separate blades for rip and crosscut, the Freud LU85 and LM74
for crosscut and rip respectively would be good choices--Freud says that
they do better than the Freud rip and crosscut blades that I have and
the ones I have do a fine job.


I have a high-tooth Freud on there, now which has served me very well.
I can get that LM74 for under 60 bucks, but have been looking for an
excuse to get a WWII.

Are you saying the WWII will have as good a finish as the LM74?


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

I have to say that I find this whole thread surprising. I've never
used a jointer for glue up edges. The thought that you might need one
for every cut...

For the OP, here's a suggestion (and I know I'm going to get flamed
for it, but it's true...) -- you mentioned the length of your cuts
which makes me think you may have an issue with support for long
pieces on your table saw, which may be leading to some of your
problems. For really long and accurate cuts, I actually end up using
my circular saw and jig... I support my piece on a couple sheets of
MDF, which is suspended above the ground by some 2x4's. I clamp on my
jig,and make the cut. Because my jig is made from MDF as well, I know
the cut will be perfectly straight. So long as it's clamped to the
cut piece securely, and I'm careful to hold the saw properly, I can
make multiple repeated cuts, that are, quite frankly, dead on. With a
good blade, the cut is perfectly smooth (within .1mm I'm sure).

If the board warps as the previous poster mentioned, you can simply
use clamps to compensate while gluing up. Once the glue dries, it
shouldn't be an issue.

(and let the flames begin...)

John

On 10/12/2010 10:47 AM, -MIKE- wrote:

I have a high-tooth Freud on there, now which has served me very well.
I can get that LM74 for under 60 bucks, but have been looking for an
excuse to get a WWII.

Are you saying the WWII will have as good a finish as the LM74?

Once you own a WWII you will never need an excuse to buy another. AAMOF,
I have two, and another is on my shopping list as we speak.

The two I will send two back for re-sharpening soon are going on eight
to ten years old and I felt it was time to spring for a new one with a
new job coming up.

As long as they continue to keep their old fashioned "Made in USA"
quality, my shop will never be without a Forrest WWII ...

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)

On 10/12/10 11:10 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 10/12/2010 10:47 AM, -MIKE- wrote:

I have a high-tooth Freud on there, now which has served me very well.
I can get that LM74 for under 60 bucks, but have been looking for an
excuse to get a WWII.

Are you saying the WWII will have as good a finish as the LM74?

Once you own a WWII you will never need an excuse to buy another. AAMOF,
I have two, and another is on my shopping list as we speak.

The two I will send two back for re-sharpening soon are going on eight
to ten years old and I felt it was time to spring for a new one with a
new job coming up.

As long as they continue to keep their old fashioned "Made in USA"
quality, my shop will never be without a Forrest WWII ...


Is that a yes on the glue line, then? :-)


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 10/12/2010 11:15 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 10/12/10 11:10 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 10/12/2010 10:47 AM, -MIKE- wrote:

I have a high-tooth Freud on there, now which has served me very well.
I can get that LM74 for under 60 bucks, but have been looking for an
excuse to get a WWII.

Are you saying the WWII will have as good a finish as the LM74?

Once you own a WWII you will never need an excuse to buy another. AAMOF,
I have two, and another is on my shopping list as we speak.

The two I will send two back for re-sharpening soon are going on eight
to ten years old and I felt it was time to spring for a new one with a
new job coming up.

As long as they continue to keep their old fashioned "Made in USA"
quality, my shop will never be without a Forrest WWII ...


Is that a yes on the glue line, then? :-)

Well, the WWII is a "combination" blade, optimized as an all purpose
blade that does an exceptional job either ripping or crosscutting.

The Freud Glue Line Rip is optimized, in tooth pattern and setting,
specifically for ripping, as well as for getting an exceptional cut.

In actual practice, and IME, either blade will work fine in most stock
for making glue line ready rip cuts.

That said, not all stock is the same and, particularly with thicker
hardwoods, I firmly believe that a high quality, dedicated "rip" blade
is the best tool for the job if you're not going to use the jointer.

When I spend a thousand dollars on material on a project, I want every
single advantage I can reasonably buy ... thus my preference for the
jointer in this situation; followed closely by the Freud GLR.

I would use the WWII and would more or less feel comfortable doing so,
but it would not be the first tool I would reach for.

The difference between mediocrity and supremacy is attention to detail.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)

On 10/12/10 11:03 AM, John wrote:
I have to say that I find this whole thread surprising. I've never
used a jointer for glue up edges. The thought that you might need one
for every cut...

For the OP, here's a suggestion (and I know I'm going to get flamed
for it, but it's true...) -- you mentioned the length of your cuts
which makes me think you may have an issue with support for long
pieces on your table saw, which may be leading to some of your
problems.

I actually mentioned that I do have a long outfeed table. There are no
problems.
I'm asking because I now *have* good equipment and don't want to take
extra, unnecessary, steps, if the saw will do the trick, alone.


For really long and accurate cuts, I actually end up using
my circular saw and jig... I support my piece on a couple sheets of
MDF, which is suspended above the ground by some 2x4's. I clamp on my
jig,and make the cut. Because my jig is made from MDF as well, I know
the cut will be perfectly straight. So long as it's clamped to the
cut piece securely, and I'm careful to hold the saw properly, I can
make multiple repeated cuts, that are, quite frankly, dead on. With a
good blade, the cut is perfectly smooth (within .1mm I'm sure).


That's the technique I used before I had a good table saw.
I still have the jigs for cutting panels on site, when I don't have a
table saw, or for rough cutting panels my little shop.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 10/12/10 11:33 AM, Swingman wrote:
Is that a yes on the glue line, then? :-)

When I spend a thousand dollars on material on a project, I want every
single advantage I can reasonably buy ... thus my preference for the
jointer in this situation; followed closely by the Freud GLR.


Forgive my density. :-)
You say, "jointer...followed...by the Freud GLR"
Are you saying the jointer to straighten one edge, then saw to width,
and glue?


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

I think it's a unanimous verdict from the jury. Thanks guys.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 10/12/2010 11:39 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 10/12/10 11:33 AM, Swingman wrote:
Is that a yes on the glue line, then? :-)

When I spend a thousand dollars on material on a project, I want every
single advantage I can reasonably buy ... thus my preference for the
jointer in this situation; followed closely by the Freud GLR.


Forgive my density. :-)
You say, "jointer...followed...by the Freud GLR"
Are you saying the jointer to straighten one edge, then saw to width,
and glue?

No ... with critical panel glue-ups in expensive stock, and once the
stock is correctly dimensioned to project spec, _I_ prefer to use _only_
the jointer to prepare the edges of the stock for glue-up.

The reason I do this as already been stated ... I personally have gotten
the best results with this method down through the years. The theory has
always been proven in the results for my way of working. YMMV ...

Leon is one of the finest cabinet/furniture makers I have ever had the
pleasure of knowing/working with.

His preference is completely different than mine in this regard, but you
can't argue with our respective results despite the different preference
in methods.

Whatever works for you ...

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)

In article ,
says...

On 10/12/10 4:32 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
Forrest Woodworker II is the standard.

I use an Oldham (now sold as Porter-Cable) Signature which does fine.

If you're working with stock less than 1 inch thick and are willing to
go with separate blades for rip and crosscut, the Freud LU85 and LM74
for crosscut and rip respectively would be good choices--Freud says that
they do better than the Freud rip and crosscut blades that I have and
the ones I have do a fine job.


I have a high-tooth Freud on there, now which has served me very well.
I can get that LM74 for under 60 bucks, but have been looking for an
excuse to get a WWII.

Are you saying the WWII will have as good a finish as the LM74?

WWII is a combination blade. I don't have one and have never felt the
need so can't say whether it gives a finish better than any of the
blades I do have, however I would not expect any combination blade to
give a finish as good as a purpose made rip or crosscut blade doing rip
or crosscut respectively.

On Oct 12, 12:40*pm, -MIKE- wrote:
I think it's a unanimous verdict from the jury. *Thanks guys.

--

* -MIKE-

* "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
* * *--Elvin Jones *(1927-2004)
* --
*http://mikedrums.com
*
* ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Not so fast. TruMatch router bit is the way to go for end-to-end panel
glue-ups. IMHO. (Wavy bit)
Once you get used to that system, nothing else will do.

On Oct 12, 12:47*pm, Swingman wrote:
On 10/12/2010 11:39 AM, -MIKE- wrote:

On 10/12/10 11:33 AM, Swingman wrote:
Is that a yes on the glue line, then? :-)

When I spend a thousand dollars on material on a project, I want every
single advantage I can reasonably buy ... thus my preference for the
jointer in this situation; followed closely by the Freud GLR.

Forgive my density. :-)
You say, "jointer...followed...by the Freud GLR"
Are you saying the jointer to straighten one edge, then saw to width,
and glue?

No ... with critical panel glue-ups in expensive stock, and once the
stock is correctly dimensioned to project spec, _I_ prefer to use _only_
the jointer to prepare the edges of the stock for glue-up.

The reason I do this as already been stated ... I personally have gotten
the best results with this method down through the years. The theory has
always been proven in the results for my way of working. YMMV ...

Leon is one of the finest cabinet/furniture makers I have ever had the
pleasure of knowing/working with.

His preference is completely different than mine in this regard, but you
can't argue with our respective results despite the different preference
in methods.

Whatever works for you ...

zzactly. I got into the TruMatch routerbits/base combo and had so
much luck with it, I never looked back.

On Oct 12, 1:35*pm, Robatoy wrote:
On Oct 12, 12:40*pm, -MIKE- wrote:

I think it's a unanimous verdict from the jury. *Thanks guys.

--

* -MIKE-

* "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
* * *--Elvin Jones *(1927-2004)
* --
*http://mikedrums.com
*
* ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Not so fast. TruMatch router bit is the way to go for end-to-end panel
glue-ups. IMHO. (Wavy bit)
Once you get used to that system, nothing else will do.

How rude of me...

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o.../TrueMatch.jpg

http://www.whitesiderouterbits.is.co...uter_Bits.aspx

On 10/12/10 12:35 PM, Robatoy wrote:
On Oct 12, 12:40 pm, wrote:
I think it's a unanimous verdict from the jury. Thanks guys.

--

-MIKE-

Not so fast. TruMatch router bit is the way to go for end-to-end panel
glue-ups. IMHO. (Wavy bit)
Once you get used to that system, nothing else will do.


Oh crap. Go away, would you!?



--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 10/12/10 12:36 PM, Robatoy wrote:
zzactly. I got into the TruMatch routerbits/base combo and had so
much luck with it, I never looked back.


So, I get how the left and right match up with the wavy edge... like T&G.
Is the base combo part of it a spacer that is half the thickness of one
'wave?"


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Oct 12, 1:45*pm, Robatoy wrote:
On Oct 12, 1:35*pm, Robatoy wrote:





On Oct 12, 12:40*pm, -MIKE- wrote:

I think it's a unanimous verdict from the jury. *Thanks guys.

--

* -MIKE-

* "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
* * *--Elvin Jones *(1927-2004)
* --
*http://mikedrums.com
*
* ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Not so fast. TruMatch router bit is the way to go for end-to-end panel
glue-ups. IMHO. (Wavy bit)
Once you get used to that system, nothing else will do.

How rude of me...

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o.../TrueMatch.jpg

http://www.whitesiderouterbits.is.co...uter_Bits.aspx

*coughs*..

we try

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o.../TrueMatch.jpg

On Oct 12, 1:51*pm, -MIKE- wrote:
On 10/12/10 12:35 PM, Robatoy wrote:

On Oct 12, 12:40 pm, *wrote:
I think it's a unanimous verdict from the jury. *Thanks guys.

--

* *-MIKE-

Not so fast. TruMatch router bit is the way to go for end-to-end panel
glue-ups. IMHO. (Wavy bit)
Once you get used to that system, nothing else will do.

Oh crap. *Go away, would you!?

--

* -MIKE-

* "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
* * *--Elvin Jones *(1927-2004)
* --
*http://mikedrums.com
*
* ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Well, Mike.... I have glued up, end-to-end panels of justabout any
veneered panels with the kind of results that made me a believer in a
hurry. Hundreds of them. (YES, Robert....hundreds)
The fact that is a solid surface joining technique doesn't make it
less effective with anything else.
It levels, extends the glue line (a half inch panel becomes a 5/8"
wide glue line) and when using a proper fence, you get that perfect
edge time and time gain.
It works, dammit.

On Oct 12, 1:54*pm, -MIKE- wrote:
On 10/12/10 12:36 PM, Robatoy wrote:

* zzactly. I got into the TruMatch routerbits/base combo and had so
much luck with it, I never looked back.

So, I get how the left and right match up with the wavy edge... like T&G.
Is the base combo part of it a spacer that is half the thickness of one
'wave?"

--

* -MIKE-

* "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
* * *--Elvin Jones *(1927-2004)
* --
*http://mikedrums.com
*
* ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

an exact 1/8" however you get to that. Either a dedicated router base
or a shim laid on one edge (not as reliable.
I can hook you up with the right router base, which you can eithew
drill yourself or predrilled for your router.
I don't know how much of this you're going to do, so....
I think Tom calls it SeamRite
http://preview.tinyurl.com/2elob3u

On 10/12/10 1:01 PM, Robatoy wrote:
Not so fast. TruMatch router bit is the way to go for end-to-end panel
glue-ups. IMHO. (Wavy bit)
Once you get used to that system, nothing else will do.

Oh crap. Go away, would you!?

--

-MIKE-


Well, Mike.... I have glued up, end-to-end panels of justabout any
veneered panels with the kind of results that made me a believer in a
hurry. Hundreds of them. (YES, Robert....hundreds)
The fact that is a solid surface joining technique doesn't make it
less effective with anything else.
It levels, extends the glue line (a half inch panel becomes a 5/8"
wide glue line) and when using a proper fence, you get that perfect
edge time and time gain.
It works, dammit.

I'm intrigued, believe me. I see that Freud has one, too.
I'm still having trouble finding a link to the "base" that I assume gets
you a perfect offset in height between the left and right pieces to be
joined.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 10/12/10 1:07 PM, Robatoy wrote:
On Oct 12, 1:54 pm, wrote:
On 10/12/10 12:36 PM, Robatoy wrote:

zzactly. I got into the TruMatch routerbits/base combo and had so
much luck with it, I never looked back.

So, I get how the left and right match up with the wavy edge... like T&G.
Is the base combo part of it a spacer that is half the thickness of one
'wave?"

--

-MIKE-


an exact 1/8" however you get to that. Either a dedicated router base
or a shim laid on one edge (not as reliable.
I can hook you up with the right router base, which you can eithew
drill yourself or predrilled for your router.
I don't know how much of this you're going to do, so....
I think Tom calls it SeamRite
http://preview.tinyurl.com/2elob3u

If it's just a matter of setting the depth 1/8" up or down, I can do
that and make a test cut to check it.
I've also gotten pretty adept at running long stock over the router
table, so that's not an issue.
Funny, but this bit, with the exact offset of the outfeed fence, would
function as a jointer as well.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 10/12/10 1:07 PM, Robatoy wrote:
On Oct 12, 1:54 pm, wrote:
On 10/12/10 12:36 PM, Robatoy wrote:

zzactly. I got into the TruMatch routerbits/base combo and had so
much luck with it, I never looked back.

So, I get how the left and right match up with the wavy edge... like T&G.
Is the base combo part of it a spacer that is half the thickness of one
'wave?"

--

-MIKE-


an exact 1/8" however you get to that. Either a dedicated router base
or a shim laid on one edge (not as reliable.
I can hook you up with the right router base, which you can eithew
drill yourself or predrilled for your router.
I don't know how much of this you're going to do, so....
I think Tom calls it SeamRite
http://preview.tinyurl.com/2elob3u

If it's just a matter of setting the depth 1/8" up or down, I can do
that and make a test cut to check it.
I've also gotten pretty adept at running long stock over the router
table, so that's not an issue.
Funny, but this bit, with the exact offset of the outfeed fence, would
function as a jointer as well.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 10/12/10 1:07 PM, Robatoy wrote:
On Oct 12, 1:54 pm, wrote:
On 10/12/10 12:36 PM, Robatoy wrote:

zzactly. I got into the TruMatch routerbits/base combo and had so
much luck with it, I never looked back.

So, I get how the left and right match up with the wavy edge... like T&G.
Is the base combo part of it a spacer that is half the thickness of one
'wave?"

--

-MIKE-


an exact 1/8" however you get to that. Either a dedicated router base
or a shim laid on one edge (not as reliable.
I can hook you up with the right router base, which you can eithew
drill yourself or predrilled for your router.
I don't know how much of this you're going to do, so....
I think Tom calls it SeamRite
http://preview.tinyurl.com/2elob3u

If it's just a matter of setting the depth 1/8" up or down, I can do
that and make a test cut to check it.
I've also gotten pretty adept at running long stock over the router
table, so that's not an issue.
Funny, but this bit, with the exact offset of the outfeed fence, would
function as a jointer as well.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Oct 12, 2:08*pm, -MIKE- wrote:
On 10/12/10 1:01 PM, Robatoy wrote:





Not so fast. TruMatch router bit is the way to go for end-to-end panel
glue-ups. IMHO. (Wavy bit)
Once you get used to that system, nothing else will do.

Oh crap. *Go away, would you!?

--

* *-MIKE-

Well, Mike.... I have glued up, end-to-end panels of justabout any
veneered panels with the kind of results that made me a believer in a
hurry. Hundreds of them. (YES, Robert....hundreds)
The fact that is a solid surface joining technique doesn't make it
less effective with anything else.
It levels, extends the glue line (a half inch panel becomes a 5/8"
wide glue line) and when using a proper fence, you get that perfect
edge time and time gain.
It works, dammit.

I'm intrigued, believe me. *I see that Freud has one, too.
I'm still having trouble finding a link to the "base" that I assume gets
you a perfect offset in height between the left and right pieces to be
joined.


http://preview.tinyurl.com/2elob3u

That wavy bit router base is available for $ 46.00. That and the bit
will give you a system that will make you slap your forehead.
BUT

there are a couple of tricks which make it even better.

On 10/12/10 1:07 PM, Robatoy wrote:
On Oct 12, 1:54 pm, wrote:
On 10/12/10 12:36 PM, Robatoy wrote:

zzactly. I got into the TruMatch routerbits/base combo and had so
much luck with it, I never looked back.

So, I get how the left and right match up with the wavy edge... like T&G.
Is the base combo part of it a spacer that is half the thickness of one
'wave?"

--

-MIKE-


an exact 1/8" however you get to that. Either a dedicated router base
or a shim laid on one edge (not as reliable.
I can hook you up with the right router base, which you can eithew
drill yourself or predrilled for your router.
I don't know how much of this you're going to do, so....
I think Tom calls it SeamRite
http://preview.tinyurl.com/2elob3u

If it's just a matter of setting the depth 1/8" up or down, I can do
that and make a test cut to check it.
I've also gotten pretty adept at running long stock over the router
table, so that's not an issue.
Funny, but this bit, with the exact offset of the outfeed fence, would
function as a jointer as well.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Oct 12, 2:20*pm, Robatoy wrote:
On Oct 12, 2:08*pm, -MIKE- wrote:





On 10/12/10 1:01 PM, Robatoy wrote:

Not so fast. TruMatch router bit is the way to go for end-to-end panel
glue-ups. IMHO. (Wavy bit)
Once you get used to that system, nothing else will do.

Oh crap. *Go away, would you!?

--

* *-MIKE-

Well, Mike.... I have glued up, end-to-end panels of justabout any
veneered panels with the kind of results that made me a believer in a
hurry. Hundreds of them. (YES, Robert....hundreds)
The fact that is a solid surface joining technique doesn't make it
less effective with anything else.
It levels, extends the glue line (a half inch panel becomes a 5/8"
wide glue line) and when using a proper fence, you get that perfect
edge time and time gain.
It works, dammit.

I'm intrigued, believe me. *I see that Freud has one, too.
I'm still having trouble finding a link to the "base" that I assume gets
you a perfect offset in height between the left and right pieces to be
joined.

http://preview.tinyurl.com/2elob3u

That wavy bit router base is available for $ 46.00. That and the bit
will give you a system that will make you slap your forehead.
BUT

there are a couple of tricks which make it even better.

3 sections glued together my way.
http://topworks.ca/Resources/Kitchen-2.jpg

On 10/12/10 1:20 PM, Robatoy wrote:

there are a couple of tricks which make it even better.


well?...... :-)


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

In article ,
says...

On 10/12/10 1:07 PM, Robatoy wrote:
On Oct 12, 1:54 pm, wrote:
On 10/12/10 12:36 PM, Robatoy wrote:

zzactly. I got into the TruMatch routerbits/base combo and had so
much luck with it, I never looked back.

So, I get how the left and right match up with the wavy edge... like T&G.
Is the base combo part of it a spacer that is half the thickness of one
'wave?"

--

-MIKE-


an exact 1/8" however you get to that. Either a dedicated router base
or a shim laid on one edge (not as reliable.
I can hook you up with the right router base, which you can eithew
drill yourself or predrilled for your router.
I don't know how much of this you're going to do, so....
I think Tom calls it SeamRite
http://preview.tinyurl.com/2elob3u

If it's just a matter of setting the depth 1/8" up or down, I can do
that and make a test cut to check it.
I've also gotten pretty adept at running long stock over the router
table, so that's not an issue.
Funny, but this bit, with the exact offset of the outfeed fence, would
function as a jointer as well.

If you have it set correctly for the stock thickness then you should be
able to alternate cutting from the front and back faces and have them
mate perfectly without any shim required.

On Oct 12, 2:15*pm, -MIKE- wrote:
On 10/12/10 1:07 PM, Robatoy wrote:





On Oct 12, 1:54 pm, *wrote:
On 10/12/10 12:36 PM, Robatoy wrote:

* *zzactly. I got into the TruMatch routerbits/base combo and had so
much luck with it, I never looked back.

So, I get how the left and right match up with the wavy edge... like T&G.
Is the base combo part of it a spacer that is half the thickness of one
'wave?"

--

* *-MIKE-

an exact 1/8" however you get to that. Either a dedicated router base
or a shim laid on one edge (not as reliable.
I can hook you up with the right router base, which you can eithew
drill yourself or predrilled for your router.
I don't know how much of this you're going to do, so....
I think Tom calls it SeamRite
http://preview.tinyurl.com/2elob3u

If it's just a matter of setting the depth 1/8" up or down, I can do
that and make a test cut to check it.
I've also gotten pretty adept at running long stock over the router
table, so that's not an issue.
Funny, but this bit, with the exact offset of the outfeed fence, would
function as a jointer as well.

Well...yes.... that's the whole idea. But I'd run the router along a
fence, unless the pieces were small.

On Oct 12, 2:47*pm, -MIKE- wrote:
On 10/12/10 1:20 PM, Robatoy wrote:



there are a couple of tricks which make it even better.

well?...... * :-)

--

* -MIKE-

* "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
* * *--Elvin Jones *(1927-2004)
* --
*http://mikedrums.com
*
* ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Hard to explain, I need to draw that up for you.... maybe not. You
want the upside seam to be vertical, not on any tangent of that 1/8".

On 10/12/10 2:31 PM, Robatoy wrote:
Hard to explain, I need to draw that up for you.... maybe not. You
want the upside seam to be vertical, not on any tangent of that 1/8".

You're saying the top of the surface of material should match up with
the apex of the curve in the cutter... the farthest point in or out in
the curve.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply