I wish to cut 1/2" wide mortises all the way through a fourbyfour (cutting
from both sides of course). Was just about to order the Amana bit# 45426
which is a double-fluted straight plunge bit, with 1/2" shank, 1/2" cutting
diameter and a 2" cutting height.

Will use a DeWalt 2.25HP Router. Is the above bit adequate for this job
(or do I need to look at spiral-fluted)? Just because the bit has a 2"
cutting height doesn't mean I should plan to try to cut more than 3/16 to
1/4" at a time, right?


BTW, Swingman, you were right--there are more bits than I thought out there!
I assume that since I have a plunge router that I'll be able to extend the
abilities of a single bit a little. For instance, using a bit with 1.5"
cutting height to cut a 1" deep groove. I know, of course, that one should
not use a bit that is too much longer than necessary due to deflection and
vibration, etc. I don't have any router bits at all yet, and my router
hasn't even arrived yet, so I sure I'm destined to learn a great deal! I
can try my hand at chisel-sharpening in the meantime.. Probably should dust
off Bill Hylton's book (on the router) on my shelf...

Bill

On 4/25/2010 3:22 AM, Bill wrote:
I wish to cut 1/2" wide mortises all the way through a fourbyfour (cutting
from both sides of course). Was just about to order the Amana bit# 45426
which is a double-fluted straight plunge bit, with 1/2" shank, 1/2" cutting
diameter and a 2" cutting height.

Will use a DeWalt 2.25HP Router. Is the above bit adequate for this job
(or do I need to look at spiral-fluted)? Just because the bit has a 2"
cutting height doesn't mean I should plan to try to cut more than 3/16 to
1/4" at a time, right?


BTW, Swingman, you were right--there are more bits than I thought out there!
I assume that since I have a plunge router that I'll be able to extend the
abilities of a single bit a little. For instance, using a bit with 1.5"
cutting height to cut a 1" deep groove. I know, of course, that one should
not use a bit that is too much longer than necessary due to deflection and
vibration, etc. I don't have any router bits at all yet, and my router
hasn't even arrived yet, so I sure I'm destined to learn a great deal! I
can try my hand at chisel-sharpening in the meantime.. Probably should dust
off Bill Hylton's book (on the router) on my shelf...

Just make sure that you have positive control of the router cutting
holes that deep--if you don't, it's easy for the bit to grab, rattle
around a bit, and break.

By positive control I mean a jig that doesn't let the router move any
direction but the direction you want it to, with no play to speak of.
Don't rely on hand pressure against a fence.

Found that out the hard way.

While spiral bits are wonderful in many ways, I wouldn't use one for
deep mortises until I was sure I could do them reliably with a straight
bit--the reason is that they cost a lot more than straight bits and
being solid carbide they're easier to break.

Learned that part the hard way too.

The jig doesn't have to be anything elaborate--you can cobble one up out
of a scrap of plywood and a couple of pieces of 2x4 that will do the
job, but it has to keep the router under control. If you need a mortise
wider than the bit, offset the router in the jig a little bit, then
reverse the jig to get your second cut (and do that for each step of
depth, don't cut all the way through then try to widen it--you may get
away with it but it's asking for trouble).

And as Allan Quatermain said to Tom Sawyer, "take your time, you've got
all the time in the world".

On 4/25/2010 2:22 AM, Bill wrote:
I wish to cut 1/2" wide mortises all the way through a fourbyfour (cutting
from both sides of course). Was just about to order the Amana bit# 45426
which is a double-fluted straight plunge bit, with 1/2" shank, 1/2" cutting
diameter and a 2" cutting height.

Will use a DeWalt 2.25HP Router. Is the above bit adequate for this job
(or do I need to look at spiral-fluted)? Just because the bit has a 2"
cutting height doesn't mean I should plan to try to cut more than 3/16 to
1/4" at a time, right?

For plunge routing, and particularly with my Multi-Router, I use "end
mills", instead of router bits.

I generally buy them from:

http://www.travers.com/prodlist.asp?...h&q=end%20mill

You can get much longer "end mills", they work much better for deep
routing, and they are generally longer lasting and much less expensive
than router bits of the same ilk.

Call Travers, tell them what task you are doing with the end mills and
what your needs are, and they will tell you precisely what you need
without you having to wade through the countless choices on their web
site/catalog.

Trust them ... good company with excellent, well informed sales staff.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)

"J. Clarke" wrote in message
...

And as Allan Quatermain said to Tom Sawyer, "take your time, you've got
all the time in the world".

Thank you for sharing both of your lessons that you "learned the hardway"--I
was ignorant of
both issues and was likely to repeat them--especially the one about "relying
on hand pressure
against a fence". Secondly, in view of all the accolades given to carbide, I
did not consider it's
brittleness--clearly a factor here! If there's a lesson here, it's got to
be "don't take too much for
granted!"

Bill

On Apr 25, 3:22*am, "Bill" wrote:
I wish to cut 1/2" wide mortises all the way through a fourbyfour (cutting
from both sides of course). *Was just about to order the Amana bit# 45426
which is a double-fluted straight plunge bit, with 1/2" shank, 1/2" cutting
diameter and a 2" cutting height.

Will use a DeWalt 2.25HP Router. * Is the above bit adequate for this job
(or do I need to look at spiral-fluted)? *Just because the bit has a 2"
cutting height doesn't mean I should plan to try to cut more than 3/16 to
1/4" at a time, right?

BTW, Swingman, you were right--there are more bits than I thought out there!
I assume that since I have a plunge router that I'll be able to extend the
abilities of a single bit a little. *For instance, using a bit with 1.5"
cutting height to cut a 1" deep groove. *I know, of course, that one should
not use a bit that is too much longer than necessary due to deflection and
vibration, etc. * I don't have any router bits at all yet, and my router
hasn't even arrived yet, so I sure I'm destined to learn a great deal! *I
can try my hand at chisel-sharpening in the meantime.. *Probably should dust
off Bill Hylton's book (on the router) on my shelf...

Bill

Done it with a PC 693 and a long 1/2" carbide bit. 1.5 hp
is more than adequate, since you can only take shallow
passes without clogging the mortise with chips. Hogging
out with a drill before routing is definitely advisable.

"dadiOH" wrote in message
...
Bill wrote:
I wish to cut 1/2" wide mortises all the way through a fourbyfour
(cutting from both sides of course). Was just about to order the
Amana bit# 45426 which is a double-fluted straight plunge bit, with
1/2" shank, 1/2" cutting diameter and a 2" cutting height.

Will use a DeWalt 2.25HP Router. Is the above bit adequate for this
job (or do I need to look at spiral-fluted)? Just because the bit
has a 2" cutting height doesn't mean I should plan to try to cut more
than 3/16 to 1/4" at a time, right?

Depends...oak or pine (hard or soft)?

Your life would be easier if you drilled a 1/2" starting hole, then a
series of 3/8" holes through the 4x4 before routing.

--

dadiOH

I believe the 4by4s will be SYP. Your idea involving drilling makes a lot of
sense!
Before this task is complete I may have a DP--not sure! : ) Thank you!

Hmm... Harbor Freght has one with a 2" spindle stroke for $59.99
(comments?).
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38119

For the sake of comparison, a long spiral-fluted (solid-carbide) bit is
about $68. : )

Bill

"Bill" wrote:
I wish to cut 1/2" wide mortises all the way through a fourbyfour
(cutting
from both sides of course).
snip

Other than an academic exercise, why bother?

A 4" long, 1/2" wide tenon cut to fit the above mortise?

Lew

On 4/25/2010 4:17 PM, Bill wrote:

For the sake of comparison, a long spiral-fluted (solid-carbide) bit is
about $68. : )

Sometimes it pays to look around a bit...

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?P...PARTPG=INLMK32

(mind the wrap)

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
...

"Bill" wrote:
I wish to cut 1/2" wide mortises all the way through a fourbyfour
(cutting
from both sides of course).
snip

Other than an academic exercise, why bother?

A 4" long, 1/2" wide tenon cut to fit the above mortise?

Lew


Lew,

Garrett Hack used two (double) 3" wide by 3.5" long tenons at the joint of
each trestle post and trestle shoe
in his design (which I am more or less following). To borrow one of your
expressions, perhaps be has "guilded
the lily". What would you do instead?

Bill

For plunge routing, and particularly with my Multi-Router, I use "end
mills", instead of router bits.
Karl

(...i think he's ripe for a 'bot...)

On 4/25/2010 7:12 PM, Robatoy wrote:

(...i think he's ripe for a 'bot...)

Not till after he's spent for the _entire_ Festool lineup...

...._then_ he'll be ripe.

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/

Is it a plunge blind hole ? or is it a cut from side or end ?
How will the wood escape ? Up spiral might be important if blind.

Martin

Bill wrote:
I wish to cut 1/2" wide mortises all the way through a fourbyfour (cutting
from both sides of course). Was just about to order the Amana bit# 45426
which is a double-fluted straight plunge bit, with 1/2" shank, 1/2" cutting
diameter and a 2" cutting height.

Will use a DeWalt 2.25HP Router. Is the above bit adequate for this job
(or do I need to look at spiral-fluted)? Just because the bit has a 2"
cutting height doesn't mean I should plan to try to cut more than 3/16 to
1/4" at a time, right?


BTW, Swingman, you were right--there are more bits than I thought out there!
I assume that since I have a plunge router that I'll be able to extend the
abilities of a single bit a little. For instance, using a bit with 1.5"
cutting height to cut a 1" deep groove. I know, of course, that one should
not use a bit that is too much longer than necessary due to deflection and
vibration, etc. I don't have any router bits at all yet, and my router
hasn't even arrived yet, so I sure I'm destined to learn a great deal! I
can try my hand at chisel-sharpening in the meantime.. Probably should dust
off Bill Hylton's book (on the router) on my shelf...

Bill

"Martin H. Eastburn" wrote in message
...
Is it a plunge blind hole ? or is it a cut from side or end ?
How will the wood escape ? Up spiral might be important if blind.

Martin

Plunge hole is blind. I'm hoping that if I don't cut too much at a time,
that the
wood "will find" a way to escape! Others suggested drilling a few
holes..that
would clearly be helpful in giving the wood a place to go as well. I'll be
buying an extra 4by4 to practice on..

Bill



Bill wrote:
I wish to cut 1/2" wide mortises all the way through a fourbyfour
(cutting from both sides of course). Was just about to order the Amana
bit# 45426 which is a double-fluted straight plunge bit, with 1/2" shank,
1/2" cutting diameter and a 2" cutting height.

Will use a DeWalt 2.25HP Router. Is the above bit adequate for this job
(or do I need to look at spiral-fluted)? Just because the bit has a 2"
cutting height doesn't mean I should plan to try to cut more than 3/16 to
1/4" at a time, right?


BTW, Swingman, you were right--there are more bits than I thought out
there! I assume that since I have a plunge router that I'll be able to
extend the abilities of a single bit a little. For instance, using a bit
with 1.5" cutting height to cut a 1" deep groove. I know, of course,
that one should not use a bit that is too much longer than necessary due
to deflection and vibration, etc. I don't have any router bits at all
yet, and my router hasn't even arrived yet, so I sure I'm destined to
learn a great deal! I can try my hand at chisel-sharpening in the
meantime.. Probably should dust off Bill Hylton's book (on the router)
on my shelf...

Bill

Lew Hodgett wrote:
"Bill" wrote:
I wish to cut 1/2" wide mortises all the way through a fourbyfour
(cutting
from both sides of course).
snip

ERRATA:

The phrase "I wish to cut 1/2" wide mortises"
should be replaced by
"I wish to cut mortises having 1/2" **end thickness**".


This is in according to Terrie Noll's book, "The Joint Book".

My thanks to *Lew* for trying to maintain a decent standard
for the clarity of communication around here!--and for yet
another valuable lesson. "Good enough is seldom good enough..."

Bill

"Bill" wrote in message
...
Lew Hodgett wrote:
"Bill" wrote:
I wish to cut 1/2" wide mortises all the way through a fourbyfour
(cutting
from both sides of course).
snip

ERRATA:

The phrase "I wish to cut 1/2" wide mortises"
should be replaced by
"I wish to cut mortises having 1/2" **end thickness**".


This is in according to Terrie Noll's book, "The Joint Book".

My thanks to *Lew* for trying to maintain a decent standard
for the clarity of communication around here!--and for yet
another valuable lesson. "Good enough is seldom good enough..."

Bill

Have you considered building something more simple and less costly before
building the work bench? I ask, as you state the 'router has not yet
arrived'. A garden bench can use the same joints and would be a perfect
practice piece. Just sayin' ...

Rumple Stiltskin wrote:

Have you considered building something more simple and less costly
before building the work bench? I ask, as you state the 'router has not
yet arrived'. A garden bench can use the same joints and would be a
perfect practice piece. Just sayin' ...

Thank you for your concern. In answer to your question, I have not a
decent place to sit in my shop, nor does my new grider/grinding wheel
nor my bench planer. I've been saying for a few months I just want to
get out there and cut some joints!

Motivated by J. Clarke's post yesterday, I've been envisioning my
routing jig throughout the day--not too hard since the router just has
to be able to slide back and forth--with no wobble! I'll block each end,
and perhaps on top of adjacent fourbyfours and use lots of clamps. Too
bad I don't have a DP or TS--I do have a circular saw I picked up at an
auction a few months ago for $7. Hope the blade's sharp! : )

I've got a few projects going on at the same time--sometimes it's too
much fun! I crawled around in the attic yesterday, installing my new
lighting is going to be too much fun (NOT)! : )

Bill

BTW, where did this new expression "Just sayin'..." come from? I've
been seeing it in a number of places lately.

"Bill" wrote in message
...
Rumple Stiltskin wrote:

Have you considered building something more simple and less costly before
building the work bench? I ask, as you state the 'router has not yet
arrived'. A garden bench can use the same joints and would be a perfect
practice piece. Just sayin' ...

Thank you for your concern. In answer to your question, I have not a
decent place to sit in my shop, nor does my new grider/grinding wheel nor
my bench planer. I've been saying for a few months I just want to
get out there and cut some joints!

Motivated by J. Clarke's post yesterday, I've been envisioning my routing
jig throughout the day--not too hard since the router just has to be able
to slide back and forth--with no wobble! I'll block each end, and perhaps
on top of adjacent fourbyfours and use lots of clamps. Too bad I don't
have a DP or TS--I do have a circular saw I picked up at an auction a few
months ago for $7. Hope the blade's sharp! : )

I've got a few projects going on at the same time--sometimes it's too much
fun! I crawled around in the attic yesterday, installing my new
lighting is going to be too much fun (NOT)! : )

Bill

BTW, where did this new expression "Just sayin'..." come from? I've been
seeing it in a number of places lately.


Urban Dictionary: a phrase used to diffuse any ill feelings caused by a
preceded remark.

" Rumple Stiltskin" wrote in message
...
Have you considered building something more simple and less costly before
building the work bench? I ask, as you state the 'router has not yet
arrived'.

I'll probably end up just trying to join two pieces of wood together, and
then
try again and again until I make at least one joint good enough to leave out
for show.
I still have a BS in the box. Have to figure out how to put that (heavy)
thing together.
Then I can rip some SYP so I can practice making table tops. Need to fettle
my
new antique planes first, of course, and my new chisels. So I will be doing
some glueing and planing excercises (too).
At the same time, I'll be tearing all of the drywall off of a wall so I can
install some
new wiring. I figure 3 duplex 110V outlets and 3 240v outlets, at least,
along with
the new subpanel I need to install. Looks like I'll need to pry up some
attic flooring to get to my ceiling
joists to install new lighting fixtures. I thought four T-5s ought to be
about right.
It works in my favor that all of these projects will occur in the same
vicinity! ; )
Somehow my "epoxying the concrete floor" project got bumped down the
list...will have to look into that.
I need a weekeater too! Maybe I can figure out a way to use the router for
that? : )

Bill

On Apr 25, 3:22*am, "Bill" wrote:
I wish to cut 1/2" wide mortises all the way through a fourbyfour (cutting
from both sides of course). *Was just about to order the Amana bit# 45426
which is a double-fluted straight plunge bit, with 1/2" shank, 1/2" cutting
diameter and a 2" cutting height.

Will use a DeWalt 2.25HP Router. * Is the above bit adequate for this job
(or do I need to look at spiral-fluted)? *Just because the bit has a 2"
cutting height doesn't mean I should plan to try to cut more than 3/16 to
1/4" at a time, right?

BTW, Swingman, you were right--there are more bits than I thought out there!
I assume that since I have a plunge router that I'll be able to extend the
abilities of a single bit a little. *For instance, using a bit with 1.5"
cutting height to cut a 1" deep groove. *I know, of course, that one should
not use a bit that is too much longer than necessary due to deflection and
vibration, etc. * I don't have any router bits at all yet, and my router
hasn't even arrived yet, so I sure I'm destined to learn a great deal! *I
can try my hand at chisel-sharpening in the meantime.. *Probably should dust
off Bill Hylton's book (on the router) on my shelf...

Bill

I would turn to my drill press and Mortising bit/chisel combination.
Espeacially in light of others' comments suggestiong you drill a few
through holes and clean up with a router bit. I mean, as long as
you're headed for the drill press anyway . . .

"Hoosierpopi" wrote in message
news:77e2cb7b-e772-4ea5-9121-
I would turn to my drill press and Mortising bit/chisel combination.
Espeacially in light of others' comments suggestiong you drill a few
through holes and clean up with a router bit. I mean, as long as
you're headed for the drill press anyway . . .
---


Yes, I was leaning that way. Then I decided I was likely to get more mileage
out of a router (than a DP). A TS would be dern handy too! One step at a
time, I guess.
If Grizzly would just have sale it might speed things up a bit! : )

Bill

You could start with a drill and drill bits to remove most of the wood. It
'wood' save a lot of work.
Go all the way through with the drill, then even up the edges with the
router.

Doug


"Bill" wrote in message
...

I wish to cut 1/2" wide mortises all the way through a fourbyfour (cutting
from both sides of course). Was just about to order the Amana bit# 45426
which is a double-fluted straight plunge bit, with 1/2" shank, 1/2"
cutting diameter and a 2" cutting height.

Will use a DeWalt 2.25HP Router. Is the above bit adequate for this job
(or do I need to look at spiral-fluted)? Just because the bit has a 2"
cutting height doesn't mean I should plan to try to cut more than 3/16 to
1/4" at a time, right?


BTW, Swingman, you were right--there are more bits than I thought out
there! I assume that since I have a plunge router that I'll be able to
extend the abilities of a single bit a little. For instance, using a bit
with 1.5" cutting height to cut a 1" deep groove. I know, of course, that
one should not use a bit that is too much longer than necessary due to
deflection and vibration, etc. I don't have any router bits at all yet,
and my router hasn't even arrived yet, so I sure I'm destined to learn a
great deal! I can try my hand at chisel-sharpening in the meantime..
Probably should dust off Bill Hylton's book (on the router) on my shelf...

Bill

"DougVL" wrote in message
...
You could start with a drill and drill bits to remove most of the wood.
It 'wood' save a lot of work.
Go all the way through with the drill, then even up the edges with the
router.

Doug


I think it's a good idea too. It might even save a router bit or two.

Thanks,
Bill

" Rumple Stiltskin" wrote in message
...

Have you considered building something more simple and less costly before
building the work bench? I ask, as you state the 'router has not yet
arrived'. A garden bench can use the same joints and would be a perfect
practice piece. Just sayin' ...


RS, holla at me about this goden bench, ya gotta pic man?

Bill (just off the infamous "8 Mile")

"Bill" wrote in message
...

" Rumple Stiltskin" wrote in message
...

Have you considered building something more simple and less costly before
building the work bench? I ask, as you state the 'router has not yet
arrived'. A garden bench can use the same joints and would be a perfect
practice piece. Just sayin' ...


RS, holla at me about this goden bench, ya gotta pic man?

Bill (just off the infamous "8 Mile")


For example:

http://www.shawcreekgeneralstore.com...rden_bench.htm

Mayhap too many M&T joints, but would offer plenty of practice.

"Bill" wrote in message
...

"DougVL" wrote in message
...
You could start with a drill and drill bits to remove most of the wood.
It 'wood' save a lot of work.
Go all the way through with the drill, then even up the edges with the
router.

Doug


I think it's a good idea too. It might even save a router bit or two.

Thanks,
Bill


You're likely going to end up using a chisel to square the corners, so just
drill and buy a good mortice chisel. Forget the router.

" Rumple Stiltskin" wrote in message
...
"Bill" wrote in message
...

" Rumple Stiltskin" wrote in message
...

Have you considered building something more simple and less costly
before building the work bench? I ask, as you state the 'router has not
yet arrived'. A garden bench can use the same joints and would be a
perfect practice piece. Just sayin' ...


RS, holla at me about this goden bench, ya gotta pic man?

Bill (just off the infamous "8 Mile")


For example:

http://www.shawcreekgeneralstore.com...rden_bench.htm

Mayhap too many M&T joints, but would offer plenty of practice.


I wrote a cute reply but decided to get away from 8 Mile before I
accidentally offend someone.
That garden bench looks like a lot of work to someone who wants to look at a
workbench!
I ordered the special Amana 2" bit tonight (yep, the one with the compass in
the stock...).
I'm not saying I'll start building workbenches on day 1. Just sayin'...

" Rumple Stiltskin" wrote in message
...
"Bill" wrote in message
...

"DougVL" wrote in message
...
You could start with a drill and drill bits to remove most of the wood.
It 'wood' save a lot of work.
Go all the way through with the drill, then even up the edges with the
router.

Doug


I think it's a good idea too. It might even save a router bit or two.

Thanks,
Bill


You're likely going to end up using a chisel to square the corners, so
just drill and buy a good mortice chisel. Forget the router.

Read DougVL's approach above. Seems to be lots of ways to get the job done,
some ways definitely seem to be a lot better than others and some seem to be
matters of style.
I think once you "hog off" the wood, both approaches wood work. Thank you
for your suggestions.

Bill

"Bill" wrote in message
...

" Rumple Stiltskin" wrote in message
...
"Bill" wrote in message
...

" Rumple Stiltskin" wrote in message
...

Have you considered building something more simple and less costly
before building the work bench? I ask, as you state the 'router has not
yet arrived'. A garden bench can use the same joints and would be a
perfect practice piece. Just sayin' ...


RS, holla at me about this goden bench, ya gotta pic man?

Bill (just off the infamous "8 Mile")


For example:

http://www.shawcreekgeneralstore.com...rden_bench.htm

Mayhap too many M&T joints, but would offer plenty of practice.


I wrote a cute reply but decided to get away from 8 Mile before I
accidentally offend someone.
That garden bench looks like a lot of work to someone who wants to look at
a workbench!
I ordered the special Amana 2" bit tonight (yep, the one with the compass
in the stock...).
I'm not saying I'll start building workbenches on day 1. Just sayin'...




Good. I previously went through a number of hobbies because I expected to
become, for example, Van Gogh after a few month's work. Screwing up a large
project right out of the chute is a sure fire way to dampen enthusiasm.

"Bill" wrote in message
...

" Rumple Stiltskin" wrote in message
...
"Bill" wrote in message
...

"DougVL" wrote in message
...
You could start with a drill and drill bits to remove most of the wood.
It 'wood' save a lot of work.
Go all the way through with the drill, then even up the edges with the
router.

Doug


I think it's a good idea too. It might even save a router bit or two.

Thanks,
Bill


You're likely going to end up using a chisel to square the corners, so
just drill and buy a good mortice chisel. Forget the router.

Read DougVL's approach above. Seems to be lots of ways to get the job
done,
some ways definitely seem to be a lot better than others and some seem to
be matters of style.
I think once you "hog off" the wood, both approaches wood work. Thank you
for your suggestions.

Bill


Are you going to round the tenons? If not, you are still going to end up
with a chisel in your hand. Unless, of course, you spring for the drill
press and mortice chisel for it.

"dadiOH" wrote in message
...

Yes, everybody needs a table saw. Everybody!


Should they have a cabinet saw like the Grizzly G0690, or should they be
able to make
excellent cuts with less than that? I'm sure I'm not likely to wear one
out--not by a long shot.
Just curious, : )
Bill

"Bill" wrote in message
...

"dadiOH" wrote in message
...

Yes, everybody needs a table saw. Everybody!


Should they have a cabinet saw like the Grizzly G0690, or should they be
able to make
excellent cuts with less than that? I'm sure I'm not likely to wear one
out--not by a long shot.
Just curious, : )
Bill


IMHO, one should be able to construct something one would not be ashamed to
display in the parlour - using Hand Tools prior to going hell for leather.
Here is an excellent resource which will show you both hand and power
methods:

Woodworking Basics: Mastering the Essentials of Craftsmanship by Peter
Korn - 12 bucks at Amazon - no relation, etc.

See the TOC for chap 8 & 9.

Rumple Stiltskin wrote:

I'm not saying I'll start building workbenches on day 1. Just sayin'...




Good. I previously went through a number of hobbies because I expected
to become, for example, Van Gogh after a few month's work. Screwing up a
large project right out of the chute is a sure fire way to dampen
enthusiasm.

Thank you for your "vote of confidence"! ; )

I haven't noticed your ID, Rumple Stiltskin, here until lately. At first
I thought you were someone I might name, incognito. Besides spinning
straw into gold, what is your background (that you would like to share,
of course)?

Bill

Rumple Stiltskin wrote:
"Jay Pique" wrote in message
...
On Apr 27, 4:22 pm, " Rumple Stiltskin" wrote:


Are you going to round the tenons? If not, you are still going to end up
with a chisel in your hand. Unless, of course, you spring for the drill
press and mortice chisel for it.- Hide quoted text -

I've not read anything about this, so this is merely anecdotal, but
I've used square tenons in rounded mortises before and not had any
problems. Just make your tenons a bit shorter on each end. I'm sure
the joint is weaker than a perfectly fit and glued M & T, but how
much?

And is it significant?

JP

You will be the best judge of that if it fails. Think about a bolt in a
nut that isn't exactly the right size.

Bill writes:
Rumple Stiltskin wrote:
"Jay Pique" wrote in message
...
On Apr 27, 4:22 pm, " Rumple Stiltskin" wrote:


Are you going to round the tenons? If not, you are still going to end up
with a chisel in your hand. Unless, of course, you spring for the drill
press and mortice chisel for it.- Hide quoted text -

I've not read anything about this, so this is merely anecdotal, but
I've used square tenons in rounded mortises before and not had any
problems. Just make your tenons a bit shorter on each end. I'm sure
the joint is weaker than a perfectly fit and glued M & T, but how
much?

And is it significant?

JP

You will be the best judge of that if it fails. Think about a bolt in a
nut that isn't exactly the right size.

A bad analogy. It really depends on the width of the tenon. For
a two-inch wide tenon, there will be plenty of glue surface.

scott

" Rumple Stiltskin" wrote in message
...
"Jay Pique" wrote in message
...
On Apr 27, 4:22 pm, " Rumple Stiltskin" wrote:


Are you going to round the tenons? If not, you are still going to end up
with a chisel in your hand. Unless, of course, you spring for the drill
press and mortice chisel for it.- Hide quoted text -

I've not read anything about this, so this is merely anecdotal, but
I've used square tenons in rounded mortises before and not had any
problems. Just make your tenons a bit shorter on each end. I'm sure
the joint is weaker than a perfectly fit and glued M & T, but how
much? And is it significant?


Reminds me of some of the contractors who have shown up at my door--
anything to save a little time. My dad was a PE and after reviewing
documents he would put his seal on them (no, not a zoo animal).
Would you put your seal on a square tenon in a round mortise?

On 2010-04-26 23:30:19 -0400, "Bill" said:

If Grizzly would just have sale it might speed things up a bit! : )

There's always Craigslist.

On 2010-04-27 16:44:02 -0400, " Rumple Stiltskin" said:

IMHO, one should be able to construct something one would not be
ashamed to display in the parlour - using Hand Tools prior to going
hell for leather. Here is an excellent resource which will show you
both hand and power methods:

Woodworking Basics: Mastering the Essentials of Craftsmanship by Peter
Korn - 12 bucks at Amazon - no relation, etc.

See the TOC for chap 8 & 9.

Bill -- you're in Indy, right? Half-Price Books is a good place to look
for woodworking books... as is your public liberry (no matter where you
are).

"Steve" wrote in message
g.com...
On 2010-04-27 16:44:02 -0400, " Rumple Stiltskin"
said:

IMHO, one should be able to construct something one would not be ashamed
to display in the parlour - using Hand Tools prior to going hell for
leather. Here is an excellent resource which will show you both hand and
power methods:

Woodworking Basics: Mastering the Essentials of Craftsmanship by Peter
Korn - 12 bucks at Amazon - no relation, etc.

See the TOC for chap 8 & 9.


I looked at the TOC at Amazon.com. What is it you think I need to learn
from that book?
I've got "The Workbench Book" by Scott Landis, and I've read a word or two
in other places.
Where do you see as my weaknesses? Lew wrote last week that I read *too
much*, though he might have
been exaggerating. : )

Bill

"Steve" wrote in message
ng.com...
On 2010-04-26 23:30:19 -0400, "Bill" said:

If Grizzly would just have sale it might speed things up a bit! : )

There's always Craigslist.



I read today that there was an ad in Popular Woodworking that says Grizzly
is going to have a sale
between 5/17 and 9/23 (or so), which would knock $100 off of the G0690,
G0691.
I assume shipping is still $144. The thread is at Saw Mill Creek forum
(under Deals & Discounts).

Bill

"Bill" wrote in message
...
Rumple Stiltskin wrote:

I'm not saying I'll start building workbenches on day 1. Just sayin'...




Good. I previously went through a number of hobbies because I expected to
become, for example, Van Gogh after a few month's work. Screwing up a
large project right out of the chute is a sure fire way to dampen
enthusiasm.

Thank you for your "vote of confidence"! ; )

I haven't noticed your ID, Rumple Stiltskin, here until lately. At first I
thought you were someone I might name, incognito. Besides spinning straw
into gold, what is your background (that you would like to share, of
course)?


Amateur. Strictly. But definitely not Olympic material.