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#1
Posted to rec.woodworking
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A machine question -- on topic!
Ok, here's my contribution to more woodworking set of topics:
We just had a thread about favorite tool, here's the alternative: What tool did you buy, that 1) you never used beyond once or twice or 2) ended up being worthless and you kept it anyway. Here's mine: Years ago, I bought a guide for cutting sheets of plywood. Cost me over $100 and I only used it once. I still have it. Your turn. MJ |
#2
Posted to rec.woodworking
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A machine question -- on topic!
wrote in message ... Ok, here's my contribution to more woodworking set of topics: We just had a thread about favorite tool, here's the alternative: What tool did you buy, that 1) you never used beyond once or twice or 2) ended up being worthless and you kept it anyway. Here's mine: Years ago, I bought a guide for cutting sheets of plywood. Cost me over $100 and I only used it once. I still have it. Your turn. MJ Some times the "quality" of the tool and the "ease of use" and the "what you would expect" factor in as to whether you would use the tool more than once. I am very close to buying "another" guide for cutting plywood sheets. My first one sucked, and was a PIA to use. My next one made by Festool will come with a Festool circular saw. That guide is stupid easy, conveinent, and probably more than what you would expect from a guide. After that PC Detail Sander tops the list. |
#3
Posted to rec.woodworking
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A machine question -- on topic!
I still use a guide to cut down sheet goods. Much handier for my
style of work. The biggest waste of time and money I own is the DeWalt version of the Rotozip. One of my buddies bought one and convinced me you could use it for about anything. Quite the opposite is true. I tried to cut 3/8" plywood with it, and got smoke with the proper bits. I tried to used it as a laminate trimmer, and not enough torque. I don't need the mess it makes to cut a hole or two in sheetrock. However, it was a Christmas gift, so it is still with us. It sits on the shelf, unused unopened for about the last 8 - 10 years. What a waste. Robert |
#4
Posted to rec.woodworking
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A machine question -- on topic!
On 3/27/10 1:32 PM, Leon wrote:
wrote in message ... Ok, here's my contribution to more woodworking set of topics: We just had a thread about favorite tool, here's the alternative: What tool did you buy, that 1) you never used beyond once or twice or 2) ended up being worthless and you kept it anyway. Here's mine: Years ago, I bought a guide for cutting sheets of plywood. Cost me over $100 and I only used it once. I still have it. Your turn. MJ Some times the "quality" of the tool and the "ease of use" and the "what you would expect" factor in as to whether you would use the tool more than once. I am very close to buying "another" guide for cutting plywood sheets. My first one sucked, and was a PIA to use. My next one made by Festool will come with a Festool circular saw. That guide is stupid easy, conveinent, and probably more than what you would expect from a guide. After that PC Detail Sander tops the list. Got the Dremel Detail Sander, rather use a piece of sandpaper in my hand. -- Froz... The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance. |
#6
Posted to rec.woodworking
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A machine question -- on topic!
My plywood cutting guide story.
I needed a saw guide of some kind and asked the guy at my local lumber yard what he reccommended. He told me about a special order item that would work. I bought it and went in and paid for it. The manager went nuts on me because I did not prepay for it. I told me to chill out and just take my money. When that didn't work, I walked away. That got his attention. I paid and left. I got it home and set it up on a sheet of plywood. I made several cuts with it. Then when I went to assemble the plywood, none of the surfaces mated well. I checked them and they were not straight! I picked up the guide and looked down it. It had a nice curve right in the middle. At least an inch and half dip right in the middle of this extruded aluminum saw guide. I took it back and showed this to the manager of this local lumber yard. He informed me since this was a special order item, he couldn't do anything for me. I told him that I liked it. I just wanted a straight guide and I would be happy. He told me to go home and straighten it out! (That didn't work) I wasted money on this thing. I ruined some plywood. I lost a bunch of time. I never went back there again. He lost thousands of dollars worth of business from me. I told this story to as many people as I could. I know of several people who decided they would get their lumber elsewhere after hearing this story. They are out of business now. I wonder why. Good riddance. |
#7
Posted to rec.woodworking
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A machine question -- on topic!
On Sat, 27 Mar 2010 10:24:56 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote: Ok, here's my contribution to more woodworking set of topics: We just had a thread about favorite tool, here's the alternative: What tool did you buy, that 1) you never used beyond once or twice or 2) ended up being worthless and you kept it anyway. Here's mine: Years ago, I bought a guide for cutting sheets of plywood. Cost me over $100 and I only used it once. I still have it. Your turn. MJ I think I have one of those - along with a "trim tramp" |
#8
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A machine question -- on topic!
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#9
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A machine question -- on topic!
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#10
Posted to rec.woodworking
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A machine question -- on topic!
On 3/27/10 5:09 PM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Sat, 27 Mar 2010 10:24:56 -0700, wrote: Ok, here's my contribution to more woodworking set of topics: We just had a thread about favorite tool, here's the alternative: What tool did you buy, that 1) you never used beyond once or twice or 2) ended up being worthless and you kept it anyway. That's easy - the Ryobi detail sander. Otherwise known as a hand buzzer. Looks like all detail sanders suck. PC, Ryobi, and my Dremel, any more votes for these useless tools. -- Froz... The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance. |
#11
Posted to rec.woodworking
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A machine question -- on topic!
"Lee Michaels" wrote in message ... I've posted about this before, but one of the handiest and most accurate cutting guides is made from scrap. In my case, I used 1/2" plywood for a couple of the long guides and 1/4" scrap for the shorter ones. As I recall, they were 8', 7', 4' and 2' long. In all instances, I sized them for BOTH of my circular saws. To make a guide, rip a piece of plywood to the required length and make the piece about 12" or so wide. Don't worry about the cuts being too straight. Then, get a piece of hardwood that is as long as the plywood and around 3/4" or so thick. Approximation is fine. First, run it through a joiner to get one edge as square and true as possible. Then, rip along the trued edge about 3/8" in, making a straight strip the thickness of the board by 3/8" by the length of the board. On the plywood, snap a chalk line or use the straightest thing you have in the shop to make a line down the middle. Apply glue to one of the 3/4" sides of the hardwood strip, then place it along the line. Sight along it and use brads to make sure it doesn't move when drying. The strip should be as straight as you can make it and extend the length of the plywood. Then, put your favorite rip/combo blade in the circular saw, place its base on the straight strip and rip off the excess plywood from the side. Magic Marker an ID for which saw/blade you are using. Then, if you want to use a second saw, do the same thing with it on the other side of the strip. If you will only use one saw, just do that other side with the same saw, or with a different blade. For instance, one side could be with a combo blade and the other with a pure rip or crosscut, depending on what you normally use. Since a circular saw cuts upward, the edge of the shooting board will act as a break-off for splinters as you rip or crosscut. To use it, clamp the edge on the marks you make for where the cut is to go and just grab your saw. There's no guess work, the cut will be clean and your accuracy will be improved. -- Nonny Suppose you were an idiot. And suppose you were a member of Congress.... But then I repeat myself.' -Mark Twain .. |
#12
Posted to rec.woodworking
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A machine question -- on topic!
"Larry Blanchard" wrote in message
... On Sat, 27 Mar 2010 10:24:56 -0700, wrote: Ok, here's my contribution to more woodworking set of topics: We just had a thread about favorite tool, here's the alternative: What tool did you buy, that 1) you never used beyond once or twice or 2) ended up being worthless and you kept it anyway. That's easy - the Ryobi detail sander. Otherwise known as a hand buzzer. -- Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw I have one of those......somewhere. Max |
#13
Posted to rec.woodworking
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A machine question -- on topic!
On 2010-03-27 15:57:52 -0400, "Lee Michaels"
said: I wasted money on this thing. I ruined some plywood. I lost a bunch of time. I never went back there again. He lost thousands of dollars worth of business from me. I told this story to as many people as I could. I know of several people who decided they would get their lumber elsewhere after hearing this story. Survey says: A satisfied customers shares his experience with three others. A dissatisfied customer tells ten others... |
#15
Posted to rec.woodworking
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A machine question -- on topic!
"Swingman" wrote Not a tool, but a "Craftsman" miter saw stand, from Highland Woodworking or somesuch, $149.99 on closeout for 39.99, and Leon literally twisted my arm and made me buy it! (I think he was interested but needed to see what it looked like before he spent his money!) Was this because Laguna or Festool didn't offer a miter saw stand? |
#16
Posted to rec.woodworking
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A machine question -- on topic!
On 3/27/2010 5:44 PM, Nonny wrote:
"Lee Michaels" wrote in message ... I've posted about this before, but one of the handiest and most accurate cutting guides is made from scrap. In my case, I used 1/2" plywood for a couple of the long guides and 1/4" scrap for the shorter ones. As I recall, they were 8', 7', 4' and 2' long. In all instances, I sized them for BOTH of my circular saws. To make a guide, rip a piece of plywood to the required length and make the piece about 12" or so wide. Don't worry about the cuts being too straight. Then, get a piece of hardwood that is as long as the plywood and around 3/4" or so thick. Approximation is fine. First, run it through a joiner to get one edge as square and true as possible. Then, rip along the trued edge about 3/8" in, making a straight strip the thickness of the board by 3/8" by the length of the board. On the plywood, snap a chalk line or use the straightest thing you have in the shop to make a line down the middle. Apply glue to one of the 3/4" sides of the hardwood strip, then place it along the line. Sight along it and use brads to make sure it doesn't move when drying. The strip should be as straight as you can make it and extend the length of the plywood. Then, put your favorite rip/combo blade in the circular saw, place its base on the straight strip and rip off the excess plywood from the side. Magic Marker an ID for which saw/blade you are using. Then, if you want to use a second saw, do the same thing with it on the other side of the strip. If you will only use one saw, just do that other side with the same saw, or with a different blade. For instance, one side could be with a combo blade and the other with a pure rip or crosscut, depending on what you normally use. Since a circular saw cuts upward, the edge of the shooting board will act as a break-off for splinters as you rip or crosscut. To use it, clamp the edge on the marks you make for where the cut is to go and just grab your saw. There's no guess work, the cut will be clean and your accuracy will be improved. You worked too hard at it. Whole thing is made of one sheet of plywood and a few screws. Mark the factory edges so that you don't lose track of them later. Cut a strip off one edge of the plywood about a foot wide. Now clamp the strip so that you can use its factory edge as a guide to clean up the edge you just cut (like cut a quarter inch or so off of it. Now move it and cut off a strip two or so inches wide. Now lay that strip on the plywood flush with the edge (unless you want a double-sided guide, in which case set it back however far you need). Glue and screw the narrow strip down, pressing it tightly against the clamped strip so that the factory edge keeps it straight. When the glue dries, cut the the completed guide off the plywood using the narrow strip to guide the saw. If you're making a double sided guide, trim the other side, and you're done. |
#17
Posted to rec.woodworking
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A machine question -- on topic!
"Nonny" wrote: I've posted about this before, but one of the handiest and most accurate cutting guides is made from scrap. In my case, I used 1/2" plywood for a couple of the long guides and 1/4" scrap for the shorter ones. As I recall, they were 8', 7', 4' and 2' long. In all instances, I sized them for BOTH of my circular saws. To make a guide, rip a piece of plywood to the required length and make the piece about 12" or so wide. Don't worry about the cuts being too straight. Then, get a piece of hardwood that is as long as the plywood and around 3/4" or so thick. Approximation is fine. First, run it through a joiner to get one edge as square and true as possible. Then, rip along the trued edge about 3/8" in, making a straight strip the thickness of the board by 3/8" by the length of the board. On the plywood, snap a chalk line or use the straightest thing you have in the shop to make a line down the middle. Apply glue to one of the 3/4" sides of the hardwood strip, then place it along the line. Sight along it and use brads to make sure it doesn't move when drying. The strip should be as straight as you can make it and extend the length of the plywood. Then, put your favorite rip/combo blade in the circular saw, place its base on the straight strip and rip off the excess plywood from the side. Magic Marker an ID for which saw/blade you are using. Then, if you want to use a second saw, do the same thing with it on the other side of the strip. If you will only use one saw, just do that other side with the same saw, or with a different blade. For instance, one side could be with a combo blade and the other with a pure rip or crosscut, depending on what you normally use. Since a circular saw cuts upward, the edge of the shooting board will act as a break-off for splinters as you rip or crosscut. To use it, clamp the edge on the marks you make for where the cut is to go and just grab your saw. There's no guess work, the cut will be clean and your accuracy will be improved. ----------------- http://tinyurl.com/yaubmdt Lew |
#18
Posted to rec.woodworking
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A machine question -- on topic!
On Mar 27, 1:24*pm, "
wrote: Ok, here's my contribution to *more woodworking set of topics: We just had a thread about favorite tool, here's the alternative: What tool did you buy, that 1) you never used beyond once or twice or 2) ended up being worthless and you kept it anyway. Here's mine: Years ago, I bought a guide for cutting sheets of plywood. Cost me over $100 and I only used it once. I still have it. Your turn. MJ My worst tool buy was a Skill 1/4 sheet orbital sander. The spring loaded clamps which were used to mount the sandpaper were better suited to break finger nails, and vibrate the nrves in your arm. Finally just tossed it. Note to Swingman; The ill fitting rubber crutch tips which don't quite fit the legs of those saw stands can be gotten on if you boil the tips. That softens them enough to squeeze them on. Joe G |
#19
Posted to rec.woodworking
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A machine question -- on topic!
"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message ... "Nonny" wrote: I've posted about this before, but one of the handiest and most accurate cutting guides is made from scrap. In my case, I used 1/2" plywood for a couple of the long guides and 1/4" scrap for the shorter ones. As I recall, they were 8', 7', 4' and 2' long. In all instances, I sized them for BOTH of my circular saws. To make a guide, rip a piece of plywood to the required length and make the piece about 12" or so wide. Don't worry about the cuts being too straight. Then, get a piece of hardwood that is as long as the plywood and around 3/4" or so thick. Approximation is fine. First, run it through a joiner to get one edge as square and true as possible. Then, rip along the trued edge about 3/8" in, making a straight strip the thickness of the board by 3/8" by the length of the board. On the plywood, snap a chalk line or use the straightest thing you have in the shop to make a line down the middle. Apply glue to one of the 3/4" sides of the hardwood strip, then place it along the line. Sight along it and use brads to make sure it doesn't move when drying. The strip should be as straight as you can make it and extend the length of the plywood. Then, put your favorite rip/combo blade in the circular saw, place its base on the straight strip and rip off the excess plywood from the side. Magic Marker an ID for which saw/blade you are using. Then, if you want to use a second saw, do the same thing with it on the other side of the strip. If you will only use one saw, just do that other side with the same saw, or with a different blade. For instance, one side could be with a combo blade and the other with a pure rip or crosscut, depending on what you normally use. Since a circular saw cuts upward, the edge of the shooting board will act as a break-off for splinters as you rip or crosscut. To use it, clamp the edge on the marks you make for where the cut is to go and just grab your saw. There's no guess work, the cut will be clean and your accuracy will be improved. ----------------- http://tinyurl.com/yaubmdt Yup, that's the same thing Lew, except that in the ones I built there were two sides for 2 saws. It's one of the most handy jigs/tools you can make for a shop and well worth the half hour or so it takes to make one. -- Nonny Suppose you were an idiot. And suppose you were a member of Congress.... But then I repeat myself.' -Mark Twain .. |
#20
Posted to rec.woodworking
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A machine question -- on topic!
On Sat, 27 Mar 2010 10:24:56 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote: Ok, here's my contribution to more woodworking set of topics: We just had a thread about favorite tool, here's the alternative: What tool did you buy, that 1) you never used beyond once or twice or 2) ended up being worthless and you kept it anyway. Here's mine: Years ago, I bought a guide for cutting sheets of plywood. Cost me over $100 and I only used it once. I still have it. Your turn. MJ Xmas gift of a B&D electric adjustable cresent wrench. Total piece of crap other then watching the jaw go in and out. Mike M |
#21
Posted to rec.woodworking
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A machine question -- on topic!
On Sat, 27 Mar 2010 21:09:50 +0000 (UTC), the infamous Larry Blanchard
scrawled the following: On Sat, 27 Mar 2010 10:24:56 -0700, wrote: Ok, here's my contribution to more woodworking set of topics: We just had a thread about favorite tool, here's the alternative: What tool did you buy, that 1) you never used beyond once or twice or 2) ended up being worthless and you kept it anyway. That's easy - the Ryobi detail sander. Otherwise known as a hand buzzer. Isn't one of those doodads one of the least used attachments to the HF Multifunction tool, guys? Leetle triangulah sandah? -- "Not always right, but never uncertain." --Heinlein -=-=- |
#22
Posted to rec.woodworking
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A machine question -- on topic!
"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
... On Sat, 27 Mar 2010 21:09:50 +0000 (UTC), the infamous Larry Blanchard scrawled the following: On Sat, 27 Mar 2010 10:24:56 -0700, wrote: Ok, here's my contribution to more woodworking set of topics: We just had a thread about favorite tool, here's the alternative: What tool did you buy, that 1) you never used beyond once or twice or 2) ended up being worthless and you kept it anyway. That's easy - the Ryobi detail sander. Otherwise known as a hand buzzer. Isn't one of those doodads one of the least used attachments to the HF Multifunction tool, guys? Leetle triangulah sandah? 'Tis. I believe I still have some of the original sandpaper triangles that came with my Fein. Blades, OTOH ... |
#23
Posted to rec.woodworking
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A machine question -- on topic!
"Swingman" wrote in message ... On 3/27/2010 12:24 PM, wrote: Your turn. Not a tool, but a "Craftsman" miter saw stand, from Highland Woodworking or somesuch, $149.99 on closeout for 39.99, and Leon literally twisted my arm and made me buy it! (I think he was interested but needed to see what it looked like before he spent his money!) Anyhow, the rubber feet wouldn't fit the tubular legs, the wheels are in an awkward place, and the whole thing is basically an accident looking for a place to happen ... it's been stored in a corner with never a saw mounted on it yet. Leon took one look at it, up went his nose, and immediately wanted to know why I would ever, fergawrdssakes, buy such a thing?! It's for sale ... if anyone is interested! Hey watt can'I sayyy. It dent look like the pisher. ;~) |
#24
Posted to rec.woodworking
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A machine question -- on topic!
Not a tool, but a "Craftsman" miter saw stand, from Highland Woodworking
or somesuch, $149.99 on closeout for 39.99, and Leon literally twisted my arm and made me buy it! (I think he was interested but needed to see what it looked like before he spent his money!) Anyhow, the rubber feet wouldn't fit the tubular legs, the wheels are in an awkward place, and the whole thing is basically an accident looking for a place to happen ... it's been stored in a corner with never a saw mounted on it yet. Leon took one look at it, up went his nose, and immediately wanted to know why I would ever, fergawrdssakes, buy such a thing?! I have this one and it's awesome. http://xrl.us/mitersawstand -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
#25
Posted to rec.woodworking
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A machine question -- on topic!
On Sun, 28 Mar 2010 00:48:09 -0500, -MIKE- wrote:
Not a tool, but a "Craftsman" miter saw stand, from Highland Woodworking or somesuch, $149.99 on closeout for 39.99, and Leon literally twisted my arm and made me buy it! (I think he was interested but needed to see what it looked like before he spent his money!) Anyhow, the rubber feet wouldn't fit the tubular legs, the wheels are in an awkward place, and the whole thing is basically an accident looking for a place to happen ... it's been stored in a corner with never a saw mounted on it yet. Leon took one look at it, up went his nose, and immediately wanted to know why I would ever, fergawrdssakes, buy such a thing?! I have this one and it's awesome. http://xrl.us/mitersawstand I have one from HF that is similar. It has more pull out supports. I wouldn't give up this table. Paul T. |
#26
Posted to rec.woodworking
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A machine question -- on topic!
On Sat, 27 Mar 2010 17:38:41 -0500, Swingman wrote:
or somesuch, $149.99 on closeout for 39.99, and Leon literally twisted my arm and made me buy it! (I think he was interested but needed to see what it looked like before he spent his money!) Dang that Leon guy eh? Do the smart thing. Wrap it up and give it to him for a birthday or Christmas present. |
#27
Posted to rec.woodworking
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A machine question -- on topic!
On 3/28/2010 12:48 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
Not a tool, but a "Craftsman" miter saw stand, from Highland Woodworking or somesuch, $149.99 on closeout for 39.99, and Leon literally twisted my arm and made me buy it! (I think he was interested but needed to see what it looked like before he spent his money!) Anyhow, the rubber feet wouldn't fit the tubular legs, the wheels are in an awkward place, and the whole thing is basically an accident looking for a place to happen ... it's been stored in a corner with never a saw mounted on it yet. Leon took one look at it, up went his nose, and immediately wanted to know why I would ever, fergawrdssakes, buy such a thing?! I have this one and it's awesome. http://xrl.us/mitersawstand One of my trim carpenters has the Ridgid. He added a couple of reinforcing welds before he got it to his perfect satisfaction, but loves it. I messed with it a bit on the last job and have to admit that it's the best one I've operated in use thus far. Very easy to fold up and transport. Mine is shop made and a PITA to move, but works well when stationary, which is what it is designed for, although it works well onsite on a couple of sawhorses. Takes up too much room in the shop though. -- www.e-woodshop.net Last update: 10/22/08 KarlC@ (the obvious) |
#28
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A machine question -- on topic!
On 3/28/2010 5:36 AM, Upscale wrote:
On Sat, 27 Mar 2010 17:38:41 -0500, wrote: or somesuch, $149.99 on closeout for 39.99, and Leon literally twisted my arm and made me buy it! (I think he was interested but needed to see what it looked like before he spent his money!) Dang that Leon guy eh? Do the smart thing. Wrap it up and give it to him for a birthday or Christmas present. Have tried similar ploys with Leon ... he just gives it right back to you on your next birthday/Christmas. -- www.e-woodshop.net Last update: 10/22/08 KarlC@ (the obvious) |
#29
Posted to rec.woodworking
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A machine question -- on topic!
"Swingman" wrote in message ... On 3/27/2010 12:24 PM, wrote: Your turn. Not a tool, but a "Craftsman" miter saw stand, from Highland Woodworking or somesuch, $149.99 on closeout for 39.99, and Leon literally twisted my arm and made me buy it! (I think he was interested but needed to see what it looked like before he spent his money!) Anyhow, the rubber feet wouldn't fit the tubular legs, the wheels are in an awkward place, and the whole thing is basically an accident looking for a place to happen ... it's been stored in a corner with never a saw mounted on it yet. Leon took one look at it, up went his nose, and immediately wanted to know why I would ever, fergawrdssakes, buy such a thing?! It's for sale ... if anyone is interested! -- With *that* sales pitch??? Nah, I think I'll pass. BTW, chuck my vote in on the triangular head detail sander/hand buzzer... jc |
#30
Posted to rec.woodworking
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A machine question -- on topic!
"Swingman" wrote in message ... On 3/27/2010 12:24 PM, wrote: Your turn. Not a tool, but a "Craftsman" miter saw stand, from Highland Woodworking or somesuch, $149.99 on closeout for 39.99, and Leon literally twisted my arm and made me buy it! (I think he was interested but needed to see what it looked like before he spent his money!) Anyhow, the rubber feet wouldn't fit the tubular legs, the wheels are in an awkward place, and the whole thing is basically an accident looking for a place to happen ... it's been stored in a corner with never a saw mounted on it yet. Leon took one look at it, up went his nose, and immediately wanted to know why I would ever, fergawrdssakes, buy such a thing?! It's for sale ... if anyone is interested! -- www.e-woodshop.net Last update: 10/22/08 KarlC@ (the obvious) I've Ridgid's/Rigid's MSUV (Mitre Saw Utility Vehicle, or something like that) and I can't say enough good things about it. Sturdy, breaks down/moves easily, never had a prob with it. If I hadn't built a rolling cart for my yellow planer, I'd buy one for it as well. |
#31
Posted to rec.woodworking
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A machine question -- on topic!
"GROVER" wrote in message ... On Mar 27, 1:24 pm, " wrote: Ok, here's my contribution to more woodworking set of topics: We just had a thread about favorite tool, here's the alternative: What tool did you buy, that 1) you never used beyond once or twice or 2) ended up being worthless and you kept it anyway. Here's mine: Years ago, I bought a guide for cutting sheets of plywood. Cost me over $100 and I only used it once. I still have it. Your turn. MJ My worst tool buy was a Skill 1/4 sheet orbital sander. The spring loaded clamps which were used to mount the sandpaper were better suited to break finger nails, and vibrate the nrves in your arm. Finally just tossed it. Note to Swingman; The ill fitting rubber crutch tips which don't quite fit the legs of those saw stands can be gotten on if you boil the tips. That softens them enough to squeeze them on. Naw those things were pretty HD, IIRC about 1/4" thick there was not going to be any rolling. ;~) He did get to use them as guards. He put one on the end of his BS fence front guide. Another made a handy glue brush water container. |
#32
Posted to rec.woodworking
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A machine question -- on topic!
On 3/27/2010 7:00 PM, GROVER wrote:
Note to Swingman; The ill fitting rubber crutch tips which don't quite fit the legs of those saw stands can be gotten on if you boil the tips. That softens them enough to squeeze them on. Not in this case ... you'd have better luck getting a hammer handle up a gnats ass. -- www.e-woodshop.net Last update: 10/22/08 KarlC@ (the obvious) |
#33
Posted to rec.woodworking
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A machine question -- on topic!
On 3/27/2010 12:24 PM, wrote:
What tool did you buy, that 1) you never used beyond once or twice or 2) ended up being worthless and you kept it anyway. [With apologies to MJ because I accidentally sent 1st response directly to him.] Back in '75 I bought a B&D circular saw and a B&D jig saw - and I still have both. I've probably used the circular saw 4 or 5 times and the jig saw only once. Bought 'em because they were cheap and don't use 'em because they're /too/ cheap. Their primary value is as reminders to not repeat that mistake. -- Morris Dovey DeSoto Solar DeSoto, Iowa USA http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/ |
#34
Posted to rec.woodworking
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A machine question -- on topic!
On Sun, 28 Mar 2010 16:05:55 -0500, "DanG" wrote:
Co worker talked me into it. It is better than the Rotozip brand for cutting drywall, but I still use a jab saw by choice - it's an age thing ( I know where the saw blade is going and I have precise control of it)! That DeWalt rotozip thing just lives in the box totally unused. The RotoZip has one advantage over typical saws in that its depth can be precisely set. I have a drain line repair on the honeydew list (screw penetrated the PVC drain line, I think) where the RotoZip will come in handy. I can set the bit to precisely so I don't make more of a mess of the pipes in the wall than the builder already has. |
#35
Posted to rec.woodworking
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A machine question -- on topic!
On Sun, 28 Mar 2010 08:28:02 -0500, Swingman wrote:
On 3/28/2010 12:48 AM, -MIKE- wrote: Not a tool, but a "Craftsman" miter saw stand, from Highland Woodworking or somesuch, $149.99 on closeout for 39.99, and Leon literally twisted my arm and made me buy it! (I think he was interested but needed to see what it looked like before he spent his money!) Anyhow, the rubber feet wouldn't fit the tubular legs, the wheels are in an awkward place, and the whole thing is basically an accident looking for a place to happen ... it's been stored in a corner with never a saw mounted on it yet. Leon took one look at it, up went his nose, and immediately wanted to know why I would ever, fergawrdssakes, buy such a thing?! I have this one and it's awesome. http://xrl.us/mitersawstand One of my trim carpenters has the Ridgid. He added a couple of reinforcing welds before he got it to his perfect satisfaction, but loves it. I messed with it a bit on the last job and have to admit that it's the best one I've operated in use thus far. Very easy to fold up and transport. Mine is shop made and a PITA to move, but works well when stationary, which is what it is designed for, although it works well onsite on a couple of sawhorses. Takes up too much room in the shop though. I have a Dewalt stand for my (HF) SCMS[*] It's rather nice and a couple of extra flanges makes it simple matter to change tools. I also have the Delta stand that I use for my DW735 planer. [*] It's on the replacement short list |
#36
Posted to rec.woodworking
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A machine question -- on topic!
On 3/28/10 8:28 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 3/28/2010 12:48 AM, -MIKE- wrote: Not a tool, but a "Craftsman" miter saw stand, from Highland Woodworking or somesuch, $149.99 on closeout for 39.99, and Leon literally twisted my arm and made me buy it! (I think he was interested but needed to see what it looked like before he spent his money!) Anyhow, the rubber feet wouldn't fit the tubular legs, the wheels are in an awkward place, and the whole thing is basically an accident looking for a place to happen ... it's been stored in a corner with never a saw mounted on it yet. Leon took one look at it, up went his nose, and immediately wanted to know why I would ever, fergawrdssakes, buy such a thing?! I have this one and it's awesome. http://xrl.us/mitersawstand One of my trim carpenters has the Ridgid. He added a couple of reinforcing welds before he got it to his perfect satisfaction, but loves it. I messed with it a bit on the last job and have to admit that it's the best one I've operated in use thus far. Very easy to fold up and transport. Yeah, soon after pinching my hand *once,* I fell in love with it. The best part is the shock that takes all the weight of the saw falling down when it folds up. I added a couple casters to the top/handle end, so it would roll, flat, into my minivan. -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
#37
Posted to rec.woodworking
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A machine question -- on topic!
On Mar 27, 1:32*pm, "Leon" wrote:
wrote in message ... Ok, here's my contribution to *more woodworking set of topics: We just had a thread about favorite tool, here's the alternative: What tool did you buy, that 1) you never used beyond once or twice or 2) ended up being worthless and you kept it anyway. Here's mine: Years ago, I bought a guide for cutting sheets of plywood. Cost me over $100 and I only used it once. I still have it. Your turn. MJ Some times the "quality" of the tool and the "ease of use" *and the "what you would expect" factor in as to whether you would use the tool more than once. I am very close to buying "another" guide for cutting plywood sheets. *My first one sucked, and was a PIA to use. *My next one made by Festool will come with a Festool circular saw. *That guide is stupid easy, conveinent, and probably more than what you would expect from a guide. After that PC Detail Sander tops the list.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Just made the same thing for my jigsaw, a narrow strip of 3/4" ply screwed to a wider strip of 3/8" ply, cut the edges off with the jigsaw, line the sole side with several strips of friction tape. Cost was three minutes' digging through the scrap bin for material. Works perfectly. Hold down against the line to be cut and saw, no time wasted looking for and setting up clamps -- less really is more. This device WILL get used frequently. |
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