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Default A machine question -- on topic!

Ok, here's my contribution to more woodworking set of topics:

We just had a thread about favorite tool, here's the alternative:

What tool did you buy, that 1) you never used beyond once or twice or
2) ended up being worthless and you kept it anyway.

Here's mine:

Years ago, I bought a guide for cutting sheets of plywood. Cost me
over
$100 and I only used it once. I still have it.

Your turn.

MJ
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wrote in message
...
Ok, here's my contribution to more woodworking set of topics:

We just had a thread about favorite tool, here's the alternative:

What tool did you buy, that 1) you never used beyond once or twice or
2) ended up being worthless and you kept it anyway.

Here's mine:

Years ago, I bought a guide for cutting sheets of plywood. Cost me
over
$100 and I only used it once. I still have it.

Your turn.

MJ


Some times the "quality" of the tool and the "ease of use" and the "what
you would expect" factor in as to whether you would use the tool more than
once.

I am very close to buying "another" guide for cutting plywood sheets. My
first one sucked, and was a PIA to use. My next one made by Festool will
come with a Festool circular saw. That guide is stupid easy, conveinent,
and probably more than what you would expect from a guide.

After that

PC Detail Sander tops the list.




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I still use a guide to cut down sheet goods. Much handier for my
style of work.

The biggest waste of time and money I own is the DeWalt version of the
Rotozip. One of my buddies bought one and convinced me you could use
it for about anything.

Quite the opposite is true. I tried to cut 3/8" plywood with it, and
got smoke with the proper bits. I tried to used it as a laminate
trimmer, and not enough torque. I don't need the mess it makes to cut
a hole or two in sheetrock.

However, it was a Christmas gift, so it is still with us. It sits on
the shelf, unused unopened for about the last 8 - 10 years.

What a waste.

Robert
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On 3/27/10 1:32 PM, Leon wrote:
wrote in message
...
Ok, here's my contribution to more woodworking set of topics:

We just had a thread about favorite tool, here's the alternative:

What tool did you buy, that 1) you never used beyond once or twice or
2) ended up being worthless and you kept it anyway.

Here's mine:

Years ago, I bought a guide for cutting sheets of plywood. Cost me
over
$100 and I only used it once. I still have it.

Your turn.

MJ


Some times the "quality" of the tool and the "ease of use" and the "what
you would expect" factor in as to whether you would use the tool more than
once.

I am very close to buying "another" guide for cutting plywood sheets. My
first one sucked, and was a PIA to use. My next one made by Festool will
come with a Festool circular saw. That guide is stupid easy, conveinent,
and probably more than what you would expect from a guide.

After that

PC Detail Sander tops the list.

Got the Dremel Detail Sander, rather use a piece of sandpaper in my hand.

--
Froz...


The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.
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My plywood cutting guide story.

I needed a saw guide of some kind and asked the guy at my local lumber yard
what he reccommended. He told me about a special order item that would work.
I bought it and went in and paid for it. The manager went nuts on me because
I did not prepay for it. I told me to chill out and just take my money. When
that didn't work, I walked away. That got his attention. I paid and left.

I got it home and set it up on a sheet of plywood. I made several cuts with
it. Then when I went to assemble the plywood, none of the surfaces mated
well. I checked them and they were not straight! I picked up the guide and
looked down it. It had a nice curve right in the middle. At least an inch
and half dip right in the middle of this extruded aluminum saw guide.

I took it back and showed this to the manager of this local lumber yard. He
informed me since this was a special order item, he couldn't do anything for
me. I told him that I liked it. I just wanted a straight guide and I would
be happy. He told me to go home and straighten it out! (That didn't work)

I wasted money on this thing. I ruined some plywood. I lost a bunch of time.
I never went back there again. He lost thousands of dollars worth of
business from me. I told this story to as many people as I could. I know of
several people who decided they would get their lumber elsewhere after
hearing this story.

They are out of business now. I wonder why. Good riddance.





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On Sat, 27 Mar 2010 10:24:56 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

Ok, here's my contribution to more woodworking set of topics:

We just had a thread about favorite tool, here's the alternative:

What tool did you buy, that 1) you never used beyond once or twice or
2) ended up being worthless and you kept it anyway.

Here's mine:

Years ago, I bought a guide for cutting sheets of plywood. Cost me
over
$100 and I only used it once. I still have it.

Your turn.

MJ

I think I have one of those - along with a "trim tramp"
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"Lee Michaels" wrote in
message ...

I've posted about this before, but one of the handiest and most
accurate cutting guides is made from scrap. In my case, I used
1/2" plywood for a couple of the long guides and 1/4" scrap for
the shorter ones. As I recall, they were 8', 7', 4' and 2' long.
In all instances, I sized them for BOTH of my circular saws.

To make a guide, rip a piece of plywood to the required length and
make the piece about 12" or so wide. Don't worry about the cuts
being too straight. Then, get a piece of hardwood that is as long
as the plywood and around 3/4" or so thick. Approximation is
fine. First, run it through a joiner to get one edge as square
and true as possible. Then, rip along the trued edge about 3/8"
in, making a straight strip the thickness of the board by 3/8" by
the length of the board.

On the plywood, snap a chalk line or use the straightest thing you
have in the shop to make a line down the middle. Apply glue to
one of the 3/4" sides of the hardwood strip, then place it along
the line. Sight along it and use brads to make sure it doesn't
move when drying. The strip should be as straight as you can make
it and extend the length of the plywood.

Then, put your favorite rip/combo blade in the circular saw, place
its base on the straight strip and rip off the excess plywood from
the side. Magic Marker an ID for which saw/blade you are using.
Then, if you want to use a second saw, do the same thing with it
on the other side of the strip. If you will only use one saw,
just do that other side with the same saw, or with a different
blade. For instance, one side could be with a combo blade and the
other with a pure rip or crosscut, depending on what you normally
use.

Since a circular saw cuts upward, the edge of the shooting board
will act as a break-off for splinters as you rip or crosscut. To
use it, clamp the edge on the marks you make for where the cut is
to go and just grab your saw. There's no guess work, the cut will
be clean and your accuracy will be improved.



--
Nonny
Suppose you were an idiot.
And suppose you were a member
of Congress.... But then I repeat myself.'

-Mark Twain
..


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On 2010-03-27 15:57:52 -0400, "Lee Michaels"
said:

I wasted money on this thing. I ruined some plywood. I lost a bunch of
time. I never went back there again. He lost thousands of dollars worth
of business from me. I told this story to as many people as I could. I
know of several people who decided they would get their lumber
elsewhere after hearing this story.


Survey says: A satisfied customers shares his experience with three
others. A dissatisfied customer tells ten others...

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"Swingman" wrote

Not a tool, but a "Craftsman" miter saw stand, from Highland Woodworking
or somesuch, $149.99 on closeout for 39.99, and Leon literally twisted my
arm and made me buy it! (I think he was interested but needed to see what
it looked like before he spent his money!)

Was this because Laguna or Festool didn't offer a miter saw stand?





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On 3/27/2010 5:44 PM, Nonny wrote:

"Lee Michaels" wrote in message
...

I've posted about this before, but one of the handiest and most accurate
cutting guides is made from scrap. In my case, I used 1/2" plywood for a
couple of the long guides and 1/4" scrap for the shorter ones. As I
recall, they were 8', 7', 4' and 2' long. In all instances, I sized them
for BOTH of my circular saws.

To make a guide, rip a piece of plywood to the required length and make
the piece about 12" or so wide. Don't worry about the cuts being too
straight. Then, get a piece of hardwood that is as long as the plywood
and around 3/4" or so thick. Approximation is fine. First, run it
through a joiner to get one edge as square and true as possible. Then,
rip along the trued edge about 3/8" in, making a straight strip the
thickness of the board by 3/8" by the length of the board.

On the plywood, snap a chalk line or use the straightest thing you have
in the shop to make a line down the middle. Apply glue to one of the
3/4" sides of the hardwood strip, then place it along the line. Sight
along it and use brads to make sure it doesn't move when drying. The
strip should be as straight as you can make it and extend the length of
the plywood.

Then, put your favorite rip/combo blade in the circular saw, place its
base on the straight strip and rip off the excess plywood from the side.
Magic Marker an ID for which saw/blade you are using. Then, if you want
to use a second saw, do the same thing with it on the other side of the
strip. If you will only use one saw, just do that other side with the
same saw, or with a different blade. For instance, one side could be
with a combo blade and the other with a pure rip or crosscut, depending
on what you normally use.

Since a circular saw cuts upward, the edge of the shooting board will
act as a break-off for splinters as you rip or crosscut. To use it,
clamp the edge on the marks you make for where the cut is to go and just
grab your saw. There's no guess work, the cut will be clean and your
accuracy will be improved.


You worked too hard at it. Whole thing is made of one sheet of plywood
and a few screws.

Mark the factory edges so that you don't lose track of them later. Cut
a strip off one edge of the plywood about a foot wide. Now clamp the
strip so that you can use its factory edge as a guide to clean up the
edge you just cut (like cut a quarter inch or so off of it. Now move it
and cut off a strip two or so inches wide. Now lay that strip on the
plywood flush with the edge (unless you want a double-sided guide, in
which case set it back however far you need). Glue and screw the narrow
strip down, pressing it tightly against the clamped strip so that the
factory edge keeps it straight. When the glue dries, cut the the
completed guide off the plywood using the narrow strip to guide the saw.
If you're making a double sided guide, trim the other side, and you're
done.
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"Nonny" wrote:

I've posted about this before, but one of the handiest and most
accurate cutting guides is made from scrap. In my case, I used 1/2"
plywood for a couple of the long guides and 1/4" scrap for the
shorter ones. As I recall, they were 8', 7', 4' and 2' long. In all
instances, I sized them for BOTH of my circular saws.

To make a guide, rip a piece of plywood to the required length and
make the piece about 12" or so wide. Don't worry about the cuts
being too straight. Then, get a piece of hardwood that is as long
as the plywood and around 3/4" or so thick. Approximation is fine.
First, run it through a joiner to get one edge as square and true as
possible. Then, rip along the trued edge about 3/8" in, making a
straight strip the thickness of the board by 3/8" by the length of
the board.

On the plywood, snap a chalk line or use the straightest thing you
have in the shop to make a line down the middle. Apply glue to one
of the 3/4" sides of the hardwood strip, then place it along the
line. Sight along it and use brads to make sure it doesn't move
when drying. The strip should be as straight as you can make it and
extend the length of the plywood.

Then, put your favorite rip/combo blade in the circular saw, place
its base on the straight strip and rip off the excess plywood from
the side. Magic Marker an ID for which saw/blade you are using.
Then, if you want to use a second saw, do the same thing with it on
the other side of the strip. If you will only use one saw, just do
that other side with the same saw, or with a different blade. For
instance, one side could be with a combo blade and the other with a
pure rip or crosscut, depending on what you normally use.

Since a circular saw cuts upward, the edge of the shooting board
will act as a break-off for splinters as you rip or crosscut. To
use it, clamp the edge on the marks you make for where the cut is to
go and just grab your saw. There's no guess work, the cut will be
clean and your accuracy will be improved.


-----------------

http://tinyurl.com/yaubmdt

Lew




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On Mar 27, 1:24*pm, "
wrote:
Ok, here's my contribution to *more woodworking set of topics:

We just had a thread about favorite tool, here's the alternative:

What tool did you buy, that 1) you never used beyond once or twice or
2) ended up being worthless and you kept it anyway.

Here's mine:

Years ago, I bought a guide for cutting sheets of plywood. Cost me
over
$100 and I only used it once. I still have it.

Your turn.

MJ


My worst tool buy was a Skill 1/4 sheet orbital sander. The spring
loaded clamps which were used to mount the sandpaper were better
suited to break finger nails, and vibrate the nrves in your arm.
Finally just tossed it.

Note to Swingman;
The ill fitting rubber crutch tips which don't quite fit the legs of
those saw stands can be gotten on if you boil the tips. That softens
them enough to squeeze them on.
Joe G
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"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
...

"Nonny" wrote:

I've posted about this before, but one of the handiest and most
accurate cutting guides is made from scrap. In my case, I used
1/2" plywood for a couple of the long guides and 1/4" scrap for
the shorter ones. As I recall, they were 8', 7', 4' and 2'
long. In all instances, I sized them for BOTH of my circular
saws.

To make a guide, rip a piece of plywood to the required length
and make the piece about 12" or so wide. Don't worry about the
cuts being too straight. Then, get a piece of hardwood that is
as long as the plywood and around 3/4" or so thick.
Approximation is fine. First, run it through a joiner to get
one edge as square and true as possible. Then, rip along the
trued edge about 3/8" in, making a straight strip the thickness
of the board by 3/8" by the length of the board.

On the plywood, snap a chalk line or use the straightest thing
you have in the shop to make a line down the middle. Apply
glue to one of the 3/4" sides of the hardwood strip, then place
it along the line. Sight along it and use brads to make sure
it doesn't move when drying. The strip should be as straight
as you can make it and extend the length of the plywood.

Then, put your favorite rip/combo blade in the circular saw,
place its base on the straight strip and rip off the excess
plywood from the side. Magic Marker an ID for which saw/blade
you are using. Then, if you want to use a second saw, do the
same thing with it on the other side of the strip. If you will
only use one saw, just do that other side with the same saw, or
with a different blade. For instance, one side could be with a
combo blade and the other with a pure rip or crosscut,
depending on what you normally use.

Since a circular saw cuts upward, the edge of the shooting
board will act as a break-off for splinters as you rip or
crosscut. To use it, clamp the edge on the marks you make for
where the cut is to go and just grab your saw. There's no
guess work, the cut will be clean and your accuracy will be
improved.


-----------------

http://tinyurl.com/yaubmdt


Yup, that's the same thing Lew, except that in the ones I built
there were two sides for 2 saws. It's one of the most handy
jigs/tools you can make for a shop and well worth the half hour or
so it takes to make one.

--
Nonny
Suppose you were an idiot.
And suppose you were a member
of Congress.... But then I repeat myself.'

-Mark Twain
..


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On Sat, 27 Mar 2010 10:24:56 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

Ok, here's my contribution to more woodworking set of topics:

We just had a thread about favorite tool, here's the alternative:

What tool did you buy, that 1) you never used beyond once or twice or
2) ended up being worthless and you kept it anyway.

Here's mine:

Years ago, I bought a guide for cutting sheets of plywood. Cost me
over
$100 and I only used it once. I still have it.

Your turn.

MJ


Xmas gift of a B&D electric adjustable cresent wrench. Total piece of
crap other then watching the jaw go in and out.

Mike M


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Not a tool, but a "Craftsman" miter saw stand, from Highland Woodworking
or somesuch, $149.99 on closeout for 39.99, and Leon literally twisted my
arm and made me buy it! (I think he was interested but needed to see what
it looked like before he spent his money!)

Anyhow, the rubber feet wouldn't fit the tubular legs, the wheels are in
an awkward place, and the whole thing is basically an accident looking for
a place to happen ... it's been stored in a corner with never a saw
mounted on it yet.

Leon took one look at it, up went his nose, and immediately wanted to
know why I would ever, fergawrdssakes, buy such a thing?!


I have this one and it's awesome.
http://xrl.us/mitersawstand


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

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On Sun, 28 Mar 2010 00:48:09 -0500, -MIKE- wrote:

Not a tool, but a "Craftsman" miter saw stand, from Highland
Woodworking or somesuch, $149.99 on closeout for 39.99, and Leon
literally twisted my arm and made me buy it! (I think he was
interested but needed to see what it looked like before he spent his
money!)

Anyhow, the rubber feet wouldn't fit the tubular legs, the wheels are
in an awkward place, and the whole thing is basically an accident
looking for a place to happen ... it's been stored in a corner with
never a saw mounted on it yet.

Leon took one look at it, up went his nose, and immediately wanted to
know why I would ever, fergawrdssakes, buy such a thing?!


I have this one and it's awesome.
http://xrl.us/mitersawstand



I have one from HF that is similar. It has more pull out supports. I
wouldn't give up this table.

Paul T.


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On Sat, 27 Mar 2010 17:38:41 -0500, Swingman wrote:
or somesuch, $149.99 on closeout for 39.99, and Leon literally twisted
my arm and made me buy it! (I think he was interested but needed to see
what it looked like before he spent his money!)


Dang that Leon guy eh? Do the smart thing. Wrap it up and give it to
him for a birthday or Christmas present.


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On 3/28/2010 12:48 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
Not a tool, but a "Craftsman" miter saw stand, from Highland Woodworking
or somesuch, $149.99 on closeout for 39.99, and Leon literally
twisted my
arm and made me buy it! (I think he was interested but needed to see
what
it looked like before he spent his money!)

Anyhow, the rubber feet wouldn't fit the tubular legs, the wheels are in
an awkward place, and the whole thing is basically an accident
looking for
a place to happen ... it's been stored in a corner with never a saw
mounted on it yet.

Leon took one look at it, up went his nose, and immediately wanted to
know why I would ever, fergawrdssakes, buy such a thing?!


I have this one and it's awesome.
http://xrl.us/mitersawstand


One of my trim carpenters has the Ridgid. He added a couple of
reinforcing welds before he got it to his perfect satisfaction, but
loves it.

I messed with it a bit on the last job and have to admit that it's the
best one I've operated in use thus far. Very easy to fold up and transport.

Mine is shop made and a PITA to move, but works well when stationary,
which is what it is designed for, although it works well onsite on a
couple of sawhorses. Takes up too much room in the shop though.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)
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On 3/28/2010 5:36 AM, Upscale wrote:
On Sat, 27 Mar 2010 17:38:41 -0500, wrote:
or somesuch, $149.99 on closeout for 39.99, and Leon literally twisted
my arm and made me buy it! (I think he was interested but needed to see
what it looked like before he spent his money!)


Dang that Leon guy eh? Do the smart thing. Wrap it up and give it to
him for a birthday or Christmas present.



Have tried similar ploys with Leon ... he just gives it right back to
you on your next birthday/Christmas.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)
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"Swingman" wrote in message
...
On 3/27/2010 12:24 PM, wrote:

Your turn.


Not a tool, but a "Craftsman" miter saw stand, from Highland Woodworking
or somesuch, $149.99 on closeout for 39.99, and Leon literally twisted my
arm and made me buy it! (I think he was interested but needed to see what
it looked like before he spent his money!)

Anyhow, the rubber feet wouldn't fit the tubular legs, the wheels are in
an awkward place, and the whole thing is basically an accident looking for
a place to happen ... it's been stored in a corner with never a saw
mounted on it yet.

Leon took one look at it, up went his nose, and immediately wanted to
know why I would ever, fergawrdssakes, buy such a thing?!

It's for sale ... if anyone is interested!

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)


I've Ridgid's/Rigid's MSUV (Mitre Saw Utility Vehicle, or something like
that) and I can't say enough good things about it. Sturdy, breaks down/moves
easily, never had a prob with it. If I hadn't built a rolling cart for my
yellow planer, I'd buy one for it as well.




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"GROVER" wrote in message
...
On Mar 27, 1:24 pm, "
wrote:
Ok, here's my contribution to more woodworking set of topics:

We just had a thread about favorite tool, here's the alternative:

What tool did you buy, that 1) you never used beyond once or twice or
2) ended up being worthless and you kept it anyway.

Here's mine:

Years ago, I bought a guide for cutting sheets of plywood. Cost me
over
$100 and I only used it once. I still have it.

Your turn.

MJ


My worst tool buy was a Skill 1/4 sheet orbital sander. The spring
loaded clamps which were used to mount the sandpaper were better
suited to break finger nails, and vibrate the nrves in your arm.
Finally just tossed it.

Note to Swingman;
The ill fitting rubber crutch tips which don't quite fit the legs of
those saw stands can be gotten on if you boil the tips. That softens
them enough to squeeze them on.


Naw those things were pretty HD, IIRC about 1/4" thick there was not going
to be any rolling. ;~) He did get to use them as guards. He put one on
the end of his BS fence front guide. Another made a handy glue brush water
container.



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On 3/27/2010 7:00 PM, GROVER wrote:

Note to Swingman;
The ill fitting rubber crutch tips which don't quite fit the legs of
those saw stands can be gotten on if you boil the tips. That softens
them enough to squeeze them on.


Not in this case ... you'd have better luck getting a hammer handle up a
gnats ass.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)
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On Sun, 28 Mar 2010 16:05:55 -0500, "DanG" wrote:

Co worker talked me into it. It is better than the Rotozip brand
for cutting drywall, but I still use a jab saw by choice - it's an
age thing ( I know where the saw blade is going and I have precise
control of it)! That DeWalt rotozip thing just lives in the box
totally unused.


The RotoZip has one advantage over typical saws in that its depth can be
precisely set. I have a drain line repair on the honeydew list (screw
penetrated the PVC drain line, I think) where the RotoZip will come in handy.
I can set the bit to precisely so I don't make more of a mess of the pipes in
the wall than the builder already has.
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On Sun, 28 Mar 2010 08:28:02 -0500, Swingman wrote:

On 3/28/2010 12:48 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
Not a tool, but a "Craftsman" miter saw stand, from Highland Woodworking
or somesuch, $149.99 on closeout for 39.99, and Leon literally
twisted my
arm and made me buy it! (I think he was interested but needed to see
what
it looked like before he spent his money!)

Anyhow, the rubber feet wouldn't fit the tubular legs, the wheels are in
an awkward place, and the whole thing is basically an accident
looking for
a place to happen ... it's been stored in a corner with never a saw
mounted on it yet.

Leon took one look at it, up went his nose, and immediately wanted to
know why I would ever, fergawrdssakes, buy such a thing?!


I have this one and it's awesome.
http://xrl.us/mitersawstand


One of my trim carpenters has the Ridgid. He added a couple of
reinforcing welds before he got it to his perfect satisfaction, but
loves it.

I messed with it a bit on the last job and have to admit that it's the
best one I've operated in use thus far. Very easy to fold up and transport.

Mine is shop made and a PITA to move, but works well when stationary,
which is what it is designed for, although it works well onsite on a
couple of sawhorses. Takes up too much room in the shop though.


I have a Dewalt stand for my (HF) SCMS[*] It's rather nice and a couple of
extra flanges makes it simple matter to change tools. I also have the Delta
stand that I use for my DW735 planer.
[*] It's on the replacement short list


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Default A machine question -- on topic!

On 3/28/10 8:28 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 3/28/2010 12:48 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
Not a tool, but a "Craftsman" miter saw stand, from Highland
Woodworking
or somesuch, $149.99 on closeout for 39.99, and Leon literally
twisted my
arm and made me buy it! (I think he was interested but needed to see
what
it looked like before he spent his money!)

Anyhow, the rubber feet wouldn't fit the tubular legs, the wheels
are in
an awkward place, and the whole thing is basically an accident
looking for
a place to happen ... it's been stored in a corner with never a saw
mounted on it yet.

Leon took one look at it, up went his nose, and immediately wanted to
know why I would ever, fergawrdssakes, buy such a thing?!


I have this one and it's awesome.
http://xrl.us/mitersawstand


One of my trim carpenters has the Ridgid. He added a couple of
reinforcing welds before he got it to his perfect satisfaction, but
loves it.

I messed with it a bit on the last job and have to admit that it's the
best one I've operated in use thus far. Very easy to fold up and transport.


Yeah, soon after pinching my hand *once,* I fell in love with it.
The best part is the shock that takes all the weight of the saw falling
down when it folds up. I added a couple casters to the top/handle end,
so it would roll, flat, into my minivan.



--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

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Default A machine question -- on topic!

On Mar 27, 1:32*pm, "Leon" wrote:
wrote in message

...





Ok, here's my contribution to *more woodworking set of topics:


We just had a thread about favorite tool, here's the alternative:


What tool did you buy, that 1) you never used beyond once or twice or
2) ended up being worthless and you kept it anyway.


Here's mine:


Years ago, I bought a guide for cutting sheets of plywood. Cost me
over
$100 and I only used it once. I still have it.


Your turn.


MJ


Some times the "quality" of the tool and the "ease of use" *and the "what
you would expect" factor in as to whether you would use the tool more than
once.

I am very close to buying "another" guide for cutting plywood sheets. *My
first one sucked, and was a PIA to use. *My next one made by Festool will
come with a Festool circular saw. *That guide is stupid easy, conveinent,
and probably more than what you would expect from a guide.

After that

PC Detail Sander tops the list.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Just made the same thing for my jigsaw, a narrow strip
of 3/4" ply screwed to a wider strip of 3/8" ply, cut the edges
off with the jigsaw, line the sole side with several strips
of friction tape. Cost was three minutes' digging through
the scrap bin for material. Works perfectly. Hold down against
the line to be cut and saw, no time wasted looking for and
setting up clamps -- less really is more. This device WILL
get used frequently.
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