Below is the post I responded to:

On 6/1/2014 5:43 PM, wrote:

Just bought a spray can of minwax polyurathane for my final coat on an old walnut table. Previous coats had been minwax polyurathane fast drying rub-on with sanding in between. I live in a arid region of the country, so I know moisture is not a problem. The spray can of minwax left a milky, rough finish. I will sand it off tomorrow and go back to my hand rub routine. Very disappointing product and waste of money!



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KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 6/3/2014 11:49 AM, Sonny wrote:
On Tuesday, June 3, 2014 11:44:17 AM UTC-5, Mike Marlow wrote:

Mike, here's what I'm seeing, additional to the original post:

bw, the poster's follow-up posts:

"-----------------------------------------------
Doubt it, it's been very dry around here this winter. Wood stored on high
rack in garage.
Test piece was sanded as usual along the grain. Wood does "feel" moist or
greasy to touch.
It might be that I'm not that experienced with tropical wood.

Tested another piece with mineral oil and it really looks good so I'll skip
the poly."

Then he later posted:

"Excellent !! I do have a paint mixer bit, but it seemed aggressive for a
quart of poly.
My work area is a partially heated enclosed porch, the temp was lower than
RT.
My poly experience had been with "gloss" or "stain" and used right after
purchase.
Now I'm confident that poor mixing was my problem. Thanks for responding."

Sonny

Saw none of that ... go figure!


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On Tuesday, June 3, 2014 12:35:04 PM UTC-5, Swingman wrote:
Saw none of that ... go figure!




And here's another of his replies (to SonomoProducts), where he mentions the can's lid.

"Oil based, satin. It's a quart can.
Now that I think about it, while I stirred the can to mix the bottom layer
for a while I looked at the lid and noticed it had the white soapy color, so
then I touched the white with the foam brush first to see what it would do.
Some of the white was already soaked in the brush when I dipped it in the
main can.

I ended up sanding the white off and trying something else. Now I'll take
more time mixing, I didn't know that the sheen killers were white pigment."

______________________________

No telling what all may have been going on with his finishing, including a comparison to his previous project. The posts didn't give us enough info or was vague, to me, to some degree, hence all my assuming. I may not have had access to all the posts, also, as with your not seeing the posts I saw.

Anyway, my idea of relevance, for any finishing, should include paying attention to possible differing temps for wood, work place, poly, etc., to prevent possible condensation problems.

Sonny

On 6/2/2014 6:37 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 6/1/2014 5:43 PM, wrote:

Just bought a spray can of minwax polyurathane for my final coat on an
old walnut table. Previous coats had been minwax polyurathane fast
drying rub-on with sanding in between. I live in a arid region of the
country, so I know moisture is not a problem. The spray can of minwax
left a milky, rough finish. I will sand it off tomorrow and go back to
my hand rub routine. Very disappointing product and waste of money!


I have used two separate cans, satin and semi-gloss, almost every day
this past week of this exact product, making stain samples for color
decisions for a client, and have not had a problem.

Funny thing ... I was using these same rattle cans yesterday to do
another couple of stain color samples and decided to change the spray
pattern from vertical to horizontal; something that can be done with
these new rattle cans with a twist of the nozzle, as you would expect
with today's technology.

Lo and behold ... after making a few normal passes with the spray
pattern to vertical, I changed the spray pattern to horizontal and the
spray immediately came out milky/cloudy on the surface of the piece.

(Obviously a _moisture related_ phenomenon - most likely due to the
expansion of the compressed gas changing the relative temperature
(PV=nRT) of the different nozzle passages, then reacting with the hot
humid air).

Didn't last long, but my initial reaction, and remembering this thread,
was WTF??

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Swingman wrote:


Lo and behold ... after making a few normal passes with the spray
pattern to vertical, I changed the spray pattern to horizontal and the
spray immediately came out milky/cloudy on the surface of the piece.

(Obviously a _moisture related_ phenomenon - most likely due to the
expansion of the compressed gas changing the relative temperature
(PV=nRT) of the different nozzle passages, then reacting with the hot
humid air).

Didn't last long, but my initial reaction, and remembering this
thread, was WTF??

Guessing here, but maybe close...but a little different. Not so much
moisture related, as simply related to the atomization of the product. When
you switch over, it probably takes a short bit for the nozzle to properly
re-adjust for proper atomization. Just a guess...

--

-Mike-

I had the same problem. Used a blow dryer.Takes the white out!

This JUST happened to me? It is the oddest thing! I have never seen this happen before. I had stained my fireplace, waited a few days...then put on the polyurethane and it streaked it white...as if I had let water sit on it or something. Did anyone ever give you a reason why this happened? I have used the exact same polyurethane before and the product was great. I am so confused...hence I googled to see if anyone else has had this problem. Let me know if you have any answers.

On 10/21/2015 7:27 PM, wrote:
This JUST happened to me? It is the oddest thing! I have never seen this happen before. I had stained my fireplace, waited a few days...then put on the polyurethane and it streaked it white...as if I had let water sit on it or something. Did anyone ever give you a reason why this happened? I have used the exact same polyurethane before and the product was great. I am so confused...hence I googled to see if anyone else has had this problem. Let me know if you have any answers.

I had this problem with a table top, The way I fixed it was to sand the
top down to nearly bare wood, wipe it good with mineral spirts, and let
dry for several days. Then used a colored (pecan) varnish to finish the
table. I have the first coat of varnish on the table, it has been
drying for a couple days with no white specks

I beleive that some thing in the wood, stain and the clear varnish was
being extracted to create the whiteness. I don't know it was the Minwax
varnish, Minwax stain, or some thing coming out of the wood, or a
combination of the three.

On 10/21/2015 7:27 PM, wrote:
This JUST happened to me? It is the oddest thing! I have never seen this happen before. I had stained my fireplace, waited a few days...then put on the polyurethane and it streaked it white...as if I had let water sit on it or something. Did anyone ever give you a reason why this happened? I have used the exact same polyurethane before and the product was great. I am so confused...hence I googled to see if anyone else has had this problem. Let me know if you have any answers.

well, it's fast drying. So it has no retarder, or has a lot of driers
(metals).

Generally is sounds like a humidity problem. Too high to use a fast
drying product. When the humidity is high, a retarder is generally used.
If you use a fast drying product, you get a haze.

--
Jeff

On Wednesday, October 21, 2015 at 8:28:41 PM UTC-5, woodchucker wrote:

well, it's fast drying. So it has no retarder, or has a lot of driers
(metals).

Metals are sometimes used to assist drying but are more commonly used as hardeners. A world of difference.


Generally is sounds like a humidity problem. Too high to use a fast
drying product. When the humidity is high, a retarder is generally used.
If you use a fast drying product, you get a haze.

Jeff, I have been doing this professionally a long time. Do you mind me asking you how you came up with that? That certainly has not been my experience.

Robert

On 10/22/2015 12:02 PM, wrote:
On Wednesday, October 21, 2015 at 8:28:41 PM UTC-5, woodchucker wrote:

well, it's fast drying. So it has no retarder, or has a lot of driers
(metals).

Metals are sometimes used to assist drying but are more commonly used as hardeners. A world of difference.


Generally is sounds like a humidity problem. Too high to use a fast
drying product. When the humidity is high, a retarder is generally used.
If you use a fast drying product, you get a haze.

Jeff, I have been doing this professionally a long time. Do you mind me asking you how you came up with that? That certainly has not been my experience.

Robert


A long time ago, I sprayed regularly (lacquer (automotive) , dope
(airplanes) imron (airplanes (both models and full size), buses, some
cars) ) . Both for myself and for other people. Up here in the North
East when it gets humid, I would have problems with hazing. So a little
retarder would allow it to slow the drying process, and not fully trap
the humidity into the finish.
Without knowing the chemistry of it, I assumed it was :
By slow drying it would get pushed out in the gassing off process of drying.

The retarder idea came from the supply shop I used to get all my paints
from.

--
Jeff

woodchucker wrote:


A long time ago, I sprayed regularly (lacquer (automotive) , dope
(airplanes) imron (airplanes (both models and full size), buses, some
cars) ) . Both for myself and for other people. Up here in the North
East when it gets humid, I would have problems with hazing. So a
little retarder would allow it to slow the drying process, and not
fully trap the humidity into the finish.
Without knowing the chemistry of it, I assumed it was :
By slow drying it would get pushed out in the gassing off process of
drying.
The retarder idea came from the supply shop I used to get all my
paints from.

That explains a lot Jeff. Most of today's finishes are not lacquer - which
did indeed suffer those issues like you experienced back then. Not so much
today - not at all. I'm still thinking about the OP's post - if he used
poly then I really can't understand why he experienced what he did,

--

-Mike-

One can never really get a good paint job in humidity. Paint haze
or eyes... Modern paints are often a plastic form or enamel form
of water based paint. Both can seal and trap under the sealed surface.

We have some 'dried' enamel paint that is poly based and it is still
sticky and out-gasses. Just not much there good.

The underlying material might be the problem also. Wrong paint for the
job. e.g. painting plastic without plastic qualified paint.

Martin

On 10/22/2015 5:47 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
woodchucker wrote:


A long time ago, I sprayed regularly (lacquer (automotive) , dope
(airplanes) imron (airplanes (both models and full size), buses, some
cars) ) . Both for myself and for other people. Up here in the North
East when it gets humid, I would have problems with hazing. So a
little retarder would allow it to slow the drying process, and not
fully trap the humidity into the finish.
Without knowing the chemistry of it, I assumed it was :
By slow drying it would get pushed out in the gassing off process of
drying.
The retarder idea came from the supply shop I used to get all my
paints from.

That explains a lot Jeff. Most of today's finishes are not lacquer - which
did indeed suffer those issues like you experienced back then. Not so much
today - not at all. I'm still thinking about the OP's post - if he used
poly then I really can't understand why he experienced what he did,

On Thursday, October 22, 2015 at 5:48:22 PM UTC-5, Mike Marlow wrote:
woodchucker wrote:


A long time ago, I sprayed regularly (lacquer (automotive) , dope
(airplanes) imron (airplanes (both models and full size), buses, some
cars) ) . Both for myself and for other people. Up here in the North
East when it gets humid, I would have problems with hazing. So a
little retarder would allow it to slow the drying process, and not
fully trap the humidity into the finish.
Without knowing the chemistry of it, I assumed it was :
By slow drying it would get pushed out in the gassing off process of
drying.
The retarder idea came from the supply shop I used to get all my
paints from.

That explains a lot Jeff. Most of today's finishes are not lacquer - which
did indeed suffer those issues like you experienced back then. Not so much
today - not at all. I'm still thinking about the OP's post - if he used
poly then I really can't understand why he experienced what he did,

I am with you on this one, Mike. In context, using the reference point set out in the post as using off the shelf polyurethane I haven't seen hazing. That is my personal experience from many years, but certainly doesn't mean that will be everyone's experience. I shoot poly, high VOC alkyds, etc. with no concerning even when it is raining outside and I can shoot parts and pieces in a garage. During the winter it rains a lot down here in South Texas (our version of snow) and during the summer we have have about 3 months where temps hover around 100 during the day with humidity around 75%. Different challenges for any finisher. Add to the fact that we sometimes have 25 degree changes in a day, and you mixes change drastically from morning to afternoon.

So back to the question of fast dry Minwax. Even as a fast dry product, it is a 2 to four dry period when applied as a first coat, which means it fast dry for poly, NOT for a finish. The super high performance product I shoot on kitchen cabinets has a 20 minute dry/recoat. That's fast. Any mistakes in prep and your finish is fouled. Two to four hours of drying is a lot more forgiving, and should be plenty of time for outgassing. The only time I have ever had any blush was when I was "pushing" lacquer finishes on cabinets I was shooting in a warehouse while it was raining outside and I was coating every thirty minutes. Four coats later, and there was blushing (haze)in certain areas.

I would bet that the reason there was blushing on the Minwax finish (which I know many folks hate, but having shot/padded/brushed many gallons of it like)is incorrect surface prep. If you target isn't properly stored, the surfaces can hold a great deal of humidity, making the surface nearly wet. A perfect storm would be to have a lot of humid weather and have your project out in a shop or garage that isn't under humidity control, and go out and finish it on the first sunny day. The wood is full of moisture, and a warm day will cause the poly to cure from the top down, trapping the outgassing solvents.

As a tip to anyone that might still be reading this thread, if you are in a humid area and still need to do some poly finishing, get the slow dry products (hence the retarder Jeff referenced, although I know of none for over the counter poly for wood workers)that are the old fashioned oil based 6 to 8 hour dry. Before you apply your finish, wipe it down well with cheap lacquer thinner and it will dry out the surfaces very well and should eliminate blushing from simply moisture contamination.

Robert

wrote:

Before you apply your
finish, wipe it down well with cheap lacquer thinner and it will dry
out the surfaces very well and should eliminate blushing from simply
moisture contamination.

Where do you get cheap lacquer thinner? Or maybe we differ in definitions
of "cheap"? Last I bought was $16+/gallon.

I also miss $1.49/gallon paint thinner sigh

On Saturday, October 24, 2015 at 2:01:26 PM UTC-5, dadiOH wrote:

Where do you get cheap lacquer thinner? Or maybe we differ in definitions
of "cheap"? Last I bought was $16+/gallon.

I also miss $1.49/gallon paint thinner sigh

No kidding! I used to buy this stuff just called "mineral spirits" that was didn't even have a name on it. Just a distributor. It came in a blue and white can and was something like $1.99 a gallon, occasionally on sale for less. I was warned NOT to thin paint or coatings with it but it was dandy for cleaning brushes and equipment. It smelled a lot like motor oil. But it was about .75 to a buck less than real thinner.

From time to time I find Sherwin Williams with one of their "economy" brands like Sunnyvale. (Again, warned NOT to use this to thin good product!) Sunnyvale will go on sale for about $9.99 a gallon, sometimes less. StarTex at SW is usually around $14 or so a gallon, but I wait until they have their 35% off sale and buy a couple of gallons. I don't use it that much, so it lasts a while.

I have been surprised over the last year how much paint, solvents and thinners have jumped in price, and for the life of me have no idea why so much. Any ideas?

Robert

On 10/26/2015 1:48 AM, wrote:
On Saturday, October 24, 2015 at 2:01:26 PM UTC-5, dadiOH wrote:

Where do you get cheap lacquer thinner? Or maybe we differ in
definitions of "cheap"? Last I bought was $16+/gallon.

I also miss $1.49/gallon paint thinner sigh

No kidding! I used to buy this stuff just called "mineral spirits"
that was didn't even have a name on it. Just a distributor. It came
in a blue and white can and was something like $1.99 a gallon,
occasionally on sale for less. I was warned NOT to thin paint or
coatings with it but it was dandy for cleaning brushes and equipment.
It smelled a lot like motor oil. But it was about .75 to a buck less
than real thinner.

From time to time I find Sherwin Williams with one of their "economy"
brands like Sunnyvale. (Again, warned NOT to use this to thin good
product!) Sunnyvale will go on sale for about $9.99 a gallon,
sometimes less. StarTex at SW is usually around $14 or so a gallon,
but I wait until they have their 35% off sale and buy a couple of
gallons. I don't use it that much, so it lasts a while.

Robert you might entertain checking with an "automotive" paint supplier.
I know that they typically sell 55 gal drums to body shops and they do
have different grades. We used to buy 55 gal drums of thinner to clean
the guns. We bought the better stuff for mixing to the paint. Anyway
they might be a bit less expensive since they deal in higher volumes.



I have been surprised over the last year how much paint, solvents and
thinners have jumped in price, and for the life of me have no idea
why so much. Any ideas?


Probably environmental taxes.


Robert

On 10/26/2015 8:52 AM, Leon wrote:
On 10/26/2015 1:48 AM, wrote:
On Saturday, October 24, 2015 at 2:01:26 PM UTC-5, dadiOH wrote:

Where do you get cheap lacquer thinner? Or maybe we differ in
definitions of "cheap"? Last I bought was $16+/gallon.

I also miss $1.49/gallon paint thinner sigh

No kidding! I used to buy this stuff just called "mineral spirits"
that was didn't even have a name on it. Just a distributor. It came
in a blue and white can and was something like $1.99 a gallon,
occasionally on sale for less. I was warned NOT to thin paint or
coatings with it but it was dandy for cleaning brushes and equipment.
It smelled a lot like motor oil. But it was about .75 to a buck less
than real thinner.

From time to time I find Sherwin Williams with one of their "economy"
brands like Sunnyvale. (Again, warned NOT to use this to thin good
product!) Sunnyvale will go on sale for about $9.99 a gallon,
sometimes less. StarTex at SW is usually around $14 or so a gallon,
but I wait until they have their 35% off sale and buy a couple of
gallons. I don't use it that much, so it lasts a while.

Robert you might entertain checking with an "automotive" paint supplier.
I know that they typically sell 55 gal drums to body shops and they do
have different grades. We used to buy 55 gal drums of thinner to clean
the guns. We bought the better stuff for mixing to the paint. Anyway
they might be a bit less expensive since they deal in higher volumes.



I have been surprised over the last year how much paint, solvents and
thinners have jumped in price, and for the life of me have no idea
why so much. Any ideas?


Probably environmental taxes.


Robert


One last thing. Are you on SW's mailing list? I get adds a few times a
month listing sales. They very often offer 30~40% off of paints and 30%
off of painting supplies. And just for joining the email list you get
an automatic 10% discount even when there is no sale.

Leon wrote:

..

Robert you might entertain checking with an "automotive" paint
supplier. I know that they typically sell 55 gal drums to body shops
and they do have different grades. We used to buy 55 gal drums of
thinner to clean the guns. We bought the better stuff for mixing to
the paint. Anyway they might be a bit less expensive since they deal
in higher volumes.

I agree that this would likely be cheaper, but it's a lot more expensive
than what you recall Leon. My price on gun wash has more than doubled over
the past 5 years or so. Still cheaper than buying it by the gallon, but a
lot more expensive than what is was only a short time ago.

--

-Mike-

On Monday, October 26, 2015 at 8:56:48 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

One last thing. Are you on SW's mailing list? I get adds a few times a
month listing sales. They very often offer 30~40% off of paints and 30%
off of painting supplies. And just for joining the email list you get
an automatic 10% discount even when there is no sale.

I buy enough that I usually get between 20 - 30% off with no sale. It depends on what products I am buying. For "pro" accounts, they will give me special deals on certain products, and they also have "pro" only discounts. For example,I redeemed an email only coupon for a product that had to be charged to my account there (proof I was who I said I was) that gave me buy one get one free on enamels. Just so happened I was painting the house I had gutted and rebuilt, so I did that for all the cabinets in the kitchen and all door, trims and moldings.

That's OK. SW's normal prices are so high they can easily afford it. When they have a sale of a non branded product, they can price things really well, and when I have a project coming up I try to keep an eye out for their specials.
Last time I bought lacquer thinner for example, I bought their generic material
I like to call "gun wash" for about $8 in a five gallon container. Since I don't use that much anymore I have to be careful how much I buy as I don't like storing that really high VOC stuff with our huge fluctuations in heat. Out in my shed, I have had lacquer thinner blow the tops off the 5 gal containers and the remaining material is ruined. Not to mention how dangerous that stuff is.

Robert

On Monday, October 26, 2015 at 11:49:14 AM UTC-5, wrote:

"gun wash" for about $8 in a five gallon container.

Should read "$8 a gallon in a five gallon container, or $40 a container".

Robert

On 10/26/2015 11:36 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Leon wrote:

.

Robert you might entertain checking with an "automotive" paint
supplier. I know that they typically sell 55 gal drums to body shops
and they do have different grades. We used to buy 55 gal drums of
thinner to clean the guns. We bought the better stuff for mixing to
the paint. Anyway they might be a bit less expensive since they deal
in higher volumes.

I agree that this would likely be cheaper, but it's a lot more expensive
than what you recall Leon. My price on gun wash has more than doubled over
the past 5 years or so. Still cheaper than buying it by the gallon, but a
lot more expensive than what is was only a short time ago.

Just comparing apples to oranges Mike. No doubt everything is more
expensive these days but a higher volume dealer is probably going to
have the better pricing.

On Friday, February 13, 2009 at 10:00:36 AM UTC-8, bw wrote:
Purchased last fall, opened yesterday. Stirred as usual, looked ok.
Applied with foam brush on test piece of medium pored teak-like wood.
Set aside at room temperature and it immediately starts to look like I
coated the wood in white soap.
What the hey. After a couple hours no change. Almost looks like I painted
the wood with white lead.

I've used this produce before without problems, but it "might" be some kind
of reaction with the wood.
The wood was purchased at a farm sale in a batch of other hard woods that
could have been over 30 years old. Some mahogany and what I thought was teak
but I can't imagine what the heck happened.

Maybe return the can to the store and try another batch.

wrote:
On Friday, February 13, 2009 at 10:00:36 AM UTC-8, bw wrote:
Purchased last fall, opened yesterday. Stirred as usual, looked ok.
Applied with foam brush on test piece of medium pored teak-like wood.
Set aside at room temperature and it immediately starts to look like I
coated the wood in white soap.
What the hey. After a couple hours no change. Almost looks like I painted
the wood with white lead.

I've used this produce before without problems, but it "might" be some kind
of reaction with the wood.
The wood was purchased at a farm sale in a batch of other hard woods that
could have been over 30 years old. Some mahogany and what I thought was teak
but I can't imagine what the heck happened.

Maybe return the can to the store and try another batch.



Sounds like moisture contamination.

On Fri, 11 Mar 2016 07:29:39 -0600, Leon wrote:

wrote:
On Friday, February 13, 2009 at 10:00:36 AM UTC-8, bw wrote:
Purchased last fall, opened yesterday. Stirred as usual, looked ok.
Applied with foam brush on test piece of medium pored teak-like wood.
Set aside at room temperature and it immediately starts to look like I
coated the wood in white soap.
What the hey. After a couple hours no change. Almost looks like I painted
the wood with white lead.

I've used this produce before without problems, but it "might" be some kind
of reaction with the wood.
The wood was purchased at a farm sale in a batch of other hard woods that
could have been over 30 years old. Some mahogany and what I thought was teak
but I can't imagine what the heck happened.

Maybe return the can to the store and try another batch.



Sounds like moisture contamination.

It's definitely not moisture in the wood. The wood has had at least since 2009 to dry out. ;-)

On 3/11/2016 9:36 AM, Gordon Shumway wrote:



Sounds like moisture contamination.

It's definitely not moisture in the wood. The wood has had at least since 2009 to dry out. ;-)


Unless it was stored in a very damp environment. Or the humidity was
extremely high.

I'd put a little of the poly on another piece of wood to see what
happens as the first step.

On 3/11/2016 8:36 AM, Gordon Shumway wrote:
On Fri, 11 Mar 2016 07:29:39 -0600, Leon wrote:

wrote:
On Friday, February 13, 2009 at 10:00:36 AM UTC-8, bw wrote:
Purchased last fall, opened yesterday. Stirred as usual, looked ok.
Applied with foam brush on test piece of medium pored teak-like wood.
Set aside at room temperature and it immediately starts to look like I
coated the wood in white soap.
What the hey. After a couple hours no change. Almost looks like I painted
the wood with white lead.

I've used this produce before without problems, but it "might" be some kind
of reaction with the wood.
The wood was purchased at a farm sale in a batch of other hard woods that
could have been over 30 years old. Some mahogany and what I thought was teak
but I can't imagine what the heck happened.

Maybe return the can to the store and try another batch.



Sounds like moisture contamination.

It's definitely not moisture in the wood. The wood has had at least since 2009 to dry out. ;-)

Yes it has been drying for years but if it was rained on it is no longer
dry.

Gordon Shumway wrote:


It's definitely not moisture in the wood. The wood has had at least since 2009 to dry out. ;-)


I agree that this does not sound like a moisture issue to me. I have
had various woods react to finishes which was caused by the internal
oils of the wood reacting with the finish. I've seen many different
types of reaction, so that would probably be my first guess with no
other information.

I would do a couple of things - I would try the finish on a completely
different piece of wood - a different type of wood. What is the result
of that test?

I would try to find out exactly what your piece of wood really is. Teak
is a wood that is often mis-identified. Monkeypod is often called Teak
for example, and it's not.

I'd try applying a sealing coat of shellac to a scrap of the wood and
then apply your finish. Any difference? If so, I'd go back to the
notion that it may be internal oils. Very well dried woods can and will
still weep oils out when a finish is applied. Shellac is a very good
universal sealing to deal with this.

Get back with your results...

--
-Mike-

On Friday, March 11, 2016 at 1:45:27 PM UTC-5, Mike Marlow wrote:
Gordon Shumway wrote:


It's definitely not moisture in the wood. The wood has had at least since 2009 to dry out. ;-)


I agree that this does not sound like a moisture issue to me. I have
had various woods react to finishes which was caused by the internal
oils of the wood reacting with the finish. I've seen many different
types of reaction, so that would probably be my first guess with no
other information.

I would do a couple of things - I would try the finish on a completely
different piece of wood - a different type of wood. What is the result
of that test?

I would try to find out exactly what your piece of wood really is. Teak
is a wood that is often mis-identified. Monkeypod is often called Teak
for example, and it's not.

I'd try applying a sealing coat of shellac to a scrap of the wood and
then apply your finish. Any difference? If so, I'd go back to the
notion that it may be internal oils. Very well dried woods can and will
still weep oils out when a finish is applied. Shellac is a very good
universal sealing to deal with this.

Get back with your results...

--
-Mike-


Mike,

I think you missed the joke.

This thread was originally started in 2009, thus the wood should have
dried out by now. ;-)

(Google Groups seems to have a habit of having threads that are extremely
old suddenly pop up again. I see in it a.h.r quite often. I think it might
have something to do with web forums that are "mirroring" usenet. Someone
on a forum finds an old thread via a search, they respond and suddenly
the thread becomes active again. Since GG and the forums are "putting and
taking" from usenet, the threads show up everywhere. In GG it's evident
that it's an old thread because the date is prominently displayed. I can't
speak to newsreader apps or web based forms. Maybe it's not that easy to
see that it is a really old (and probably dead) thread.)

On 3/11/2016 2:06 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, March 11, 2016 at 1:45:27 PM UTC-5, Mike Marlow wrote:
Gordon Shumway wrote:


It's definitely not moisture in the wood. The wood has had at least since 2009 to dry out. ;-)


I agree that this does not sound like a moisture issue to me. I have
had various woods react to finishes which was caused by the internal
oils of the wood reacting with the finish. I've seen many different
types of reaction, so that would probably be my first guess with no
other information.

I would do a couple of things - I would try the finish on a completely
different piece of wood - a different type of wood. What is the result
of that test?

I would try to find out exactly what your piece of wood really is. Teak
is a wood that is often mis-identified. Monkeypod is often called Teak
for example, and it's not.

I'd try applying a sealing coat of shellac to a scrap of the wood and
then apply your finish. Any difference? If so, I'd go back to the
notion that it may be internal oils. Very well dried woods can and will
still weep oils out when a finish is applied. Shellac is a very good
universal sealing to deal with this.

Get back with your results...

--
-Mike-


Mike,

I think you missed the joke.

This thread was originally started in 2009, thus the wood should have
dried out by now. ;-)


I guess it wasn't fast drying poly.

Yeah, I missed it too.

DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, March 11, 2016 at 1:45:27 PM UTC-5, Mike Marlow wrote:


I think you missed the joke.

This thread was originally started in 2009, thus the wood should have
dried out by now. ;-)


Holy cow - I certainly missed that! Walking away a little embarrassed
just now...


--
-Mike-

replying to bw, Craig wrote:
This is not an answer to the question. But I'm have the same problem. I'm
refinishing a table and two end tables. My daughter wanted them painted a new
color, so I am using Rust-oleum (espresso) with a wash . The set is over 50
years old, so nice and dry. The paint was no problems, looked great. I
allowed the paint to dry for about 5 days. I live in the Arizona desert the
temperature has been in the high 80's to mid 90's. The water based
polyurethane was stirred very well (nothing on the bottom of the can). I used
a brush to apply, and found it foaming every where, I mean real bad. Do they
add a foaming agent to the product? I changed over and used a cloth to apply
the rest and it seemed to work much better. I waited about 3 hours, I did a
light sanding and applied a second coat and allowed to dry over night. The
next day, I have white patches all over the place. Looks like garbage. Can I
put and oil based polyurethane over the top ? Or do I have to start all over
again and wast about 30 hours of time ? I have used Minwax for years and never
had this this kind of problems. Is it something I did wrong or is it the
product? HELP!
Thanks Craig

--
posted from
http://www.homeownershub.com/woodwor...ze-450901-.htm

Hi all,

I had the same issue. Fast-drying Minwax semi-gloass ruined my Cabinet door with white streaks. It was like a chemical reaction craziness. Whatever the cause was, I used a hair dryer. With the hottest setting, I took time. With patience, the streaks went away like a miracle. It was after 24 hours of drying. If I had use the hot air earlier, it might have taken less time. But hot air works.

thanks

replying to bw, frustrated refinisher wrote:
Hello, I know this is an old post but I'm having the same kind of problem.
I've been refinishing a bathroom vanity, 3 pieces, and thought I was on my
last coat of Oil Fast Drying by Minwax.semi-gloss but I got alot of bubbles
even though I was doing all of the correct steps. I used Oil Zar stain.
Anyway, when I lightly sanded w/220, everything was covered with sanding
residue which I vacuumed, wiped w/dry microfiber cloth, then Kleen Green
odorless mineral spirits but still looked greyish. I googled @ the MS and saw
alot of complaints @it so I got the other Kleen OMS & wiped with microfiber
cloth. Still looked the same when OMS dried. I went ahead & slightly thinned
poly w/OMS. Minimal bubbles but it dried with a milk finish that looks like
its under this last coat. I had already 2 coats unthinned & didn"t have a
problem except for bubbles, no residue. I didnt have this problem in MB but I
did all the doors, drawers,mirrors & light strip in my finished basement. I
don't remember if it rained that day. Everything was dry but I did use a
different brush this time that had been used before on walls, waterbased, but
the first brush was used the same way & cleaned the same way. I presoaked the
brush this time in OMS, something I picked up reading all these sites. Do I
have to sand it all off? I've tried the heat gun but didn't see much
difference & that was maybe 4 days ago & I keep checking it & it's not going
away. The Zar oil stain is merlot, so the milkyness really stands out. I'm a
perfectionist so I can't just leave it like this!!! Some posts say just put
another coat on & that will make it go away, but I'm worried it'll just be
more I have to remove. I bought a new Wooster Silver Tipped brush made for
oil as was the other brush I used. I'm sorry this is so long but wanted to
give all the info I could. Also, slowly stirred poly & tried to go slow & not
overbrush, but has to tip off because of bubbles. Thank you very much in
advance!!! PS I've refinished several pieces before & never had this problem.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/woodwo...ze-450901-.htm

replying to frustrated refinisher, frustrated refinisher wrote:
Also lots of detail/moldings so not looking foward to resanding the 3piece
vanity...Thanks again!!

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/woodwo...ze-450901-.htm

replying to frustrated refinisher, frustrated refinisher wrote:
Just went down & tried wiping doors, etc. w/acetone & w/alot of effort it
seems to help, but starting to re-grey in areas. I'll go down & check on them
tomorrow to see if it worked or have to get denatured alcohol?? Also I can
still see little rings everywhere where there were bubbles that I sanded
smooth. How do I fix that?I've already had sanded thru in several places &
tried to touch up with Minwax marker but it wipes right off. This was a brand
new vanity that wasn't stained around molding but I didn't notice in time so
I've been trying to fix it ever since.. I appreciate any idea's You may
have!!Thank's again!!!

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/woodwo...ze-450901-.htm

On Friday, June 9, 2017 at 10:44:06 PM UTC-4, frustrated refinisher wrote:
replying to frustrated refinisher, frustrated refinisher wrote:
Just went down & tried wiping doors, etc. w/acetone & w/alot of effort it
seems to help, but starting to re-grey in areas. I'll go down & check on them
tomorrow to see if it worked or have to get denatured alcohol?? Also I can
still see little rings everywhere where there were bubbles that I sanded
smooth. How do I fix that?I've already had sanded thru in several places &
tried to touch up with Minwax marker but it wipes right off. This was a brand
new vanity that wasn't stained around molding but I didn't notice in time so
I've been trying to fix it ever since.. I appreciate any idea's You may
have!!Thank's again!!!

--


Here's an idea:

Stay away from Minwax products.

Having said that, I do use their Wipe-On Poly, but that's about it.

replying to DerbyDad03, frustrated refinisher wrote:
Thank you for your reply...Alot of other people on these sites say the same
but it was too late for me. I did use Zar oil stain but I didn't thiing that
covered very well, blotchy...I just went back down to check & most of the haze
is gone& looks like most of the poly as well. I want to cover over those
sanded bubble marks, little circles that remain after sanding smooth. Not sure
if I should wipe w/more acetone, oms, or buy denatured alcohol & if one of
those don't remove them & touch up my sand thru's w/another coat of stain or
just put on more poly?? Sorry but this has been my first time posting but I've
been reading these for months...Thanks again & if anyone else has info to
correct, please contact me ASAP!! Your help is much appreciated!!


--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/woodwo...ze-450901-.htm

replying to bw, Rental wrote:
Sad to say it's just the Minwax....us
ed it for years with no prob...going on 3rd attempt at this job...used Minwax
twice after talking to their help line...switched to Rust-oleum...no
prob..Sherwin-williams bought Minwax....wonder what they have done

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/woodwo...ze-450901-.htm

This is an EASY fix!! The same thing happened to some interior doors I had stained and applied the same polyurethane to. Just get a blow dryer and go over the hazy areas. It takes a little time, but works like magic and stays looking like new. Wish I would have known this years ago when I had the same problem, stripped down everything, and started over 😫