"dpb" wrote

Here, just in passing, as Michael notes in his response, there is
something of interest. My experience w/ the Minwax fast dry and blended
poly's is I won't touch 'em going forward.

No doubt.

My experience suggest that the clear was put over something like stain that
was not completely outgassed, or the clear was put on or allowed to dry in a
high humidity environment.
--
Jim in NC


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Morgans wrote:
"dpb" wrote

Here, just in passing, as Michael notes in his response, there is
something of interest. My experience w/ the Minwax fast dry and
blended poly's is I won't touch 'em going forward.

No doubt.

My experience suggest that the clear was put over something like
stain that was not completely outgassed, or the clear was put on or
allowed to dry in a high humidity environment.

That's a common problem with lacquers, but no so common with poly.

--

-Mike-

Just bought a spray can of minwax polyurathane for my final coat on an old walnut table. Previous coats had been minwax polyurathane fast drying rub-on with sanding in between. I live in a arid region of the country, so I know moisture is not a problem. The spray can of minwax left a milky, rough finish. I will sand it off tomorrow and go back to my hand rub routine. Very disappointing product and waste of money!

wrote:

Just bought a spray can of minwax polyurathane for my final coat on
an old walnut table. Previous coats had been minwax polyurathane fast
drying rub-on with sanding in between. I live in a arid region of the
country, so I know moisture is not a problem. The spray can of minwax
left a milky, rough finish. I will sand it off tomorrow and go back
to my hand rub routine. Very disappointing product and waste of
money!

Your best advise... call mixwax. Not trying to be wise - call them.

--

-Mike-

Mike Marlow wrote:
wrote:

Just bought a spray can of minwax polyurathane for my final coat on
an old walnut table. Previous coats had been minwax polyurathane fast
drying rub-on with sanding in between. I live in a arid region of the
country, so I know moisture is not a problem. The spray can of minwax
left a milky, rough finish. I will sand it off tomorrow and go back
to my hand rub routine. Very disappointing product and waste of
money!

Your best advise... call mixwax. Not trying to be wise - call them.

Sorry for replying to my own reply, but did you follow the diredtions for
re-coating? Did you scuff the surface before applying your spray product?

--

-Mike-

On 6/1/2014 5:43 PM, wrote:

Just bought a spray can of minwax polyurathane for my final coat on an old walnut table. Previous coats had been minwax polyurathane fast drying rub-on with sanding in between. I live in a arid region of the country, so I know moisture is not a problem. The spray can of minwax left a milky, rough finish. I will sand it off tomorrow and go back to my hand rub routine. Very disappointing product and waste of money!


I have used two separate cans, satin and semi-gloss, almost every day
this past week of this exact product, making stain samples for color
decisions for a client, and have not had a problem.

Call Min-Wax.

FWIW, I do not sand or scuff in between coats with this product and have
yet to have a problem.

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On 6/2/2014 6:37 AM, Swingman wrote:
I have used two separate cans, satin and semi-gloss, almost every day
this past week of this exact product, making stain samples for color
decisions for a client, and have not had a problem.

One other thing. If you are using anything but "gloss", IOW a satin or
semi-gloss product, she simply may not have shaken the can enough.

When the direction say shake for two minutes, particularly with a
product that has particulates in it to cause a sheen, the need to
thoroughly mix the product is critical.

Go back, shake well and test it on a board to see if the the blush still
happens.

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Swingman wrote:


I have used two separate cans, satin and semi-gloss, almost every day
this past week of this exact product, making stain samples for color
decisions for a client, and have not had a problem.

Call Min-Wax.

FWIW, I do not sand or scuff in between coats with this product and
have yet to have a problem.

So now you've peaked my curiosity Karl. How long do you typically wait
between coats?

--

-Mike-

Swingman wrote:

One other thing. If you are using anything but "gloss", IOW a satin or
semi-gloss product, she simply may not have shaken the can enough.

When the direction say shake for two minutes, particularly with a
product that has particulates in it to cause a sheen, the need to
thoroughly mix the product is critical.


Absolutely correct - and Karl claims he don't know nuthin' 'bout spraying
finishes... I can only say that I strenuously agree with him on this! I
learned a long time ago that the smart guys that they hire to come up with
this crap know a lot more than me, and so I trust in what they say. Of
course, I learned that the hard way...

Go back, shake well and test it on a board to see if the the blush
still happens.

I'll bet it does not. Poly does not generally blush. That's more a lacquer
characteristic. Even with lacquer, it's related to humidity and that is not
an issue for this poster. I have to believe (at first guess with minimal
information), that the problem really does lie in the proper use of the
product.

--

-Mike-

On 6/2/2014 7:21 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Swingman wrote:


I have used two separate cans, satin and semi-gloss, almost every day
this past week of this exact product, making stain samples for color
decisions for a client, and have not had a problem.

Call Min-Wax.

FWIW, I do not sand or scuff in between coats with this product and
have yet to have a problem.

So now you've peaked my curiosity Karl. How long do you typically wait
between coats?

For this product, I apply a thin coat and re-coat in _no more_ than two
hours, per manufacturer's specific instructions, normally 20 to 30 minutes.

I'm one of those who hates finishing so much that I actually, and
religiously, follow the manufacturer's directions to a "T".

To paraphrase their directions for recoating with this product: "if you
wait more than two hours to re-coat, you must then wait 72 hours, then
sand/scuff before re-coating."

Don't have that much time to waste ...

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