Purchased last fall, opened yesterday. Stirred as usual, looked ok.
Applied with foam brush on test piece of medium pored teak-like wood.
Set aside at room temperature and it immediately starts to look like I
coated the wood in white soap.
What the hey. After a couple hours no change. Almost looks like I painted
the wood with white lead.

I've used this produce before without problems, but it "might" be some kind
of reaction with the wood.
The wood was purchased at a farm sale in a batch of other hard woods that
could have been over 30 years old. Some mahogany and what I thought was teak
but I can't imagine what the heck happened.

Maybe return the can to the store and try another batch.

bw wrote:
Purchased last fall, opened yesterday. Stirred as usual, looked ok.
Applied with foam brush on test piece of medium pored teak-like wood.
Set aside at room temperature and it immediately starts to look like I
coated the wood in white soap.
What the hey. After a couple hours no change. Almost looks like I
painted the wood with white lead.

I've used this produce before without problems, but it "might" be
some kind of reaction with the wood.
The wood was purchased at a farm sale in a batch of other hard woods
that could have been over 30 years old. Some mahogany and what I
thought was teak but I can't imagine what the heck happened.

Maybe return the can to the store and try another batch.

Could there be moisture in the sample wood???

P D Q

"PDQ" wrote in message
...
bw wrote:
Purchased last fall, opened yesterday. Stirred as usual, looked ok.
Applied with foam brush on test piece of medium pored teak-like wood.
Set aside at room temperature and it immediately starts to look like I
coated the wood in white soap.
What the hey. After a couple hours no change. Almost looks like I
painted the wood with white lead.

I've used this produce before without problems, but it "might" be
some kind of reaction with the wood.
The wood was purchased at a farm sale in a batch of other hard woods
that could have been over 30 years old. Some mahogany and what I
thought was teak but I can't imagine what the heck happened.

Maybe return the can to the store and try another batch.

Could there be moisture in the sample wood???

P D Q
-----------------------------------------------
Doubt it, it's been very dry around here this winter. Wood stored on high
rack in garage.
Test piece was sanded as usual along the grain. Wood does "feel" moist or
greasy to touch.
It might be that I'm not that experienced with tropical wood.

Tested another piece with mineral oil and it really looks good so I'll skip
the poly.

This sound like blush for sure which is moisture captured in the
finish before it has a chance to evaporate. I've only seen it with
lacquer but maybe this "fast dry" is acting like lacquer and skinning
over very fast, not allowing the moisture to evaoprate. With lacquer
we add a retarder to slow the skinning to allow the moisture to
escape. Typically only seen when you have high humidity.

A few possibilities a
- Moisture in material. I guess unlikely if this was the first time it
was ever opened.
- Shelf life problem and something went bad in the can.
- High moisture content in the wood.

I am not familiar with this product. Is it water based? If it is oil
based, maybe try thinning it with some mineral spirits to maybe
increase the open time to let the moisture escape. If water based, is
there a thinner you can use, maybe flowtrol or something? Also, is
this semi-gloss or satin? Those sheen killers are just white paint
pigment so maybe somehow it got out of balance and you got all of it
in one coat.

On Feb 13, 10:00*am, "bw" wrote:
Purchased last fall, opened yesterday. Stirred as usual, looked ok.
Applied with foam brush on test piece of medium pored teak-like wood.
Set aside at room temperature and it immediately starts to look like I
coated the wood in white soap.
What the hey. After a couple hours no change. Almost looks like I painted
the wood with white lead.

I've used this produce before without problems, but it "might" be some kind
of reaction with the wood.
The wood was purchased at a farm sale in a batch of other hard woods that
could have been over 30 years old. Some mahogany and what I thought was teak
but I can't imagine what the heck happened.

Maybe return the can to the store and try another batch.

"SonomaProducts.com" wrote in message
...
This sound like blush for sure which is moisture captured in the
finish before it has a chance to evaporate. I've only seen it with
lacquer but maybe this "fast dry" is acting like lacquer and skinning
over very fast, not allowing the moisture to evaoprate. With lacquer
we add a retarder to slow the skinning to allow the moisture to
escape. Typically only seen when you have high humidity.

A few possibilities a
- Moisture in material. I guess unlikely if this was the first time it
was ever opened.
- Shelf life problem and something went bad in the can.
- High moisture content in the wood.

I am not familiar with this product. Is it water based? If it is oil
based, maybe try thinning it with some mineral spirits to maybe
increase the open time to let the moisture escape. If water based, is
there a thinner you can use, maybe flowtrol or something? Also, is
this semi-gloss or satin? Those sheen killers are just white paint
pigment so maybe somehow it got out of balance and you got all of it
in one coat.

Oil based, satin. It's a quart can.
Now that I think about it, while I stirred the can to mix the bottom layer
for a while I looked at the lid and noticed it had the white soapy color, so
then I touched the white with the foam brush first to see what it would do.
Some of the white was already soaked in the brush when I dipped it in the
main can.

I ended up sanding the white off and trying something else. Now I'll take
more time mixing, I didn't know that the sheen killers were white pigment.

On Feb 13, 10:58*pm, "bw" wrote:
"SonomaProducts.com" wrote in message

...
This sound like blush for sure which is moisture captured in the
finish before it has a chance to evaporate. I've only seen it with
lacquer but maybe this "fast dry" is acting like lacquer and skinning
over very fast, not allowing the moisture to evaoprate. With lacquer
we add a retarder to slow the skinning to allow the moisture to
escape. Typically only seen when you have high humidity.

A few possibilities a
- Moisture in material. I guess unlikely if this was the first time it
was ever opened.
- Shelf life problem and something went bad in the can.
- High moisture content in the wood.

I am not familiar with this product. Is it water based? If it is oil
based, maybe try thinning it with some mineral spirits to maybe
increase the open time to let the moisture escape. If water based, is
there a thinner you can use, maybe flowtrol or something? Also, is
this semi-gloss or satin? Those sheen killers are just white paint
pigment so maybe somehow it got out of balance and you got all of it
in one coat.

As usual, Sr. Sonoma is on his game. FWIW, I agree.

I ended up sanding the white off and trying something else. Now I'll take
more time mixing, I didn't know that the sheen killers were white pigment..

Actually, the shine killers that break the reflectivity are usually
some type of silica, flat ground to the manufacturer's specs.

These will easily collect on the bottom of the can if the material is
old, or in my experience, been exposed to a lot of different temp
changes. (For example, here we have had some days lately where the
overnight temp was 35 - 40 degrees different from the day temps).

Do yourself a favor. Go to the hardware store and buy yourself a
paint stirring gizmo with the spiral configuration on the end. Put
that on the end of your drill and stir your material, no matter what
it is, for at least three minutes in a quart sized can. More for a
gallon, even more for a five gallon.

Don't whip any air into your material when you are stirring. Air will
make bubble in your finish, even after application. A low mix speed
works fine. When the semi gloss, satin clear coat is properly mixed
it will look like clear amber in the can. Some clear flats look a bit
cloudy, but consistent. Never white.

Robert

wrote in message
...

Actually, the shine killers that break the reflectivity are usually
some type of silica, flat ground to the manufacturer's specs.

These will easily collect on the bottom of the can if the material is
old, or in my experience, been exposed to a lot of different temp
changes. (For example, here we have had some days lately where the
overnight temp was 35 - 40 degrees different from the day temps).

Do yourself a favor. Go to the hardware store and buy yourself a
paint stirring gizmo with the spiral configuration on the end. Put
that on the end of your drill and stir your material, no matter what
it is, for at least three minutes in a quart sized can. More for a
gallon, even more for a five gallon.

Don't whip any air into your material when you are stirring. Air will
make bubble in your finish, even after application. A low mix speed
works fine. When the semi gloss, satin clear coat is properly mixed
it will look like clear amber in the can. Some clear flats look a bit
cloudy, but consistent. Never white.

Robert

Excellent !! I do have a paint mixer bit, but it seemed aggressive for a
quart of poly.
My work area is a partially heated enclosed porch, the temp was lower than
RT.
My poly experience had been with "gloss" or "stain" and used right after
purchase.
Now I'm confident that poor mixing was my problem. Thanks for responding.

replying to bw, frustrated refinisher wrote:
Hello, I know this is an old post but I'm having the same kind of problem.
I've been refinishing a bathroom vanity, 3 pieces, and thought I was on my
last coat of Oil Fast Drying by Minwax.semi-gloss but I got alot of bubbles
even though I was doing all of the correct steps. I used Oil Zar stain.
Anyway, when I lightly sanded w/220, everything was covered with sanding
residue which I vacuumed, wiped w/dry microfiber cloth, then Kleen Green
odorless mineral spirits but still looked greyish. I googled @ the MS and saw
alot of complaints @it so I got the other Kleen OMS & wiped with microfiber
cloth. Still looked the same when OMS dried. I went ahead & slightly thinned
poly w/OMS. Minimal bubbles but it dried with a milk finish that looks like
its under this last coat. I had already 2 coats unthinned & didn"t have a
problem except for bubbles, no residue. I didnt have this problem in MB but I
did all the doors, drawers,mirrors & light strip in my finished basement. I
don't remember if it rained that day. Everything was dry but I did use a
different brush this time that had been used before on walls, waterbased, but
the first brush was used the same way & cleaned the same way. I presoaked the
brush this time in OMS, something I picked up reading all these sites. Do I
have to sand it all off? I've tried the heat gun but didn't see much
difference & that was maybe 4 days ago & I keep checking it & it's not going
away. The Zar oil stain is merlot, so the milkyness really stands out. I'm a
perfectionist so I can't just leave it like this!!! Some posts say just put
another coat on & that will make it go away, but I'm worried it'll just be
more I have to remove. I bought a new Wooster Silver Tipped brush made for
oil as was the other brush I used. I'm sorry this is so long but wanted to
give all the info I could. Also, slowly stirred poly & tried to go slow & not
overbrush, but has to tip off because of bubbles. Thank you very much in
advance!!! PS I've refinished several pieces before & never had this problem.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/woodwo...ze-450901-.htm

replying to frustrated refinisher, frustrated refinisher wrote:
Also lots of detail/moldings so not looking foward to resanding the 3piece
vanity...Thanks again!!

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/woodwo...ze-450901-.htm

replying to frustrated refinisher, frustrated refinisher wrote:
Just went down & tried wiping doors, etc. w/acetone & w/alot of effort it
seems to help, but starting to re-grey in areas. I'll go down & check on them
tomorrow to see if it worked or have to get denatured alcohol?? Also I can
still see little rings everywhere where there were bubbles that I sanded
smooth. How do I fix that?I've already had sanded thru in several places &
tried to touch up with Minwax marker but it wipes right off. This was a brand
new vanity that wasn't stained around molding but I didn't notice in time so
I've been trying to fix it ever since.. I appreciate any idea's You may
have!!Thank's again!!!

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/woodwo...ze-450901-.htm

On Friday, June 9, 2017 at 10:44:06 PM UTC-4, frustrated refinisher wrote:
replying to frustrated refinisher, frustrated refinisher wrote:
Just went down & tried wiping doors, etc. w/acetone & w/alot of effort it
seems to help, but starting to re-grey in areas. I'll go down & check on them
tomorrow to see if it worked or have to get denatured alcohol?? Also I can
still see little rings everywhere where there were bubbles that I sanded
smooth. How do I fix that?I've already had sanded thru in several places &
tried to touch up with Minwax marker but it wipes right off. This was a brand
new vanity that wasn't stained around molding but I didn't notice in time so
I've been trying to fix it ever since.. I appreciate any idea's You may
have!!Thank's again!!!

--


Here's an idea:

Stay away from Minwax products.

Having said that, I do use their Wipe-On Poly, but that's about it.

Purchased last fall, opened yesterday. Stirred as usual, looked ok.
Applied with foam brush on test piece of medium pored teak-like wood.
Set aside at room temperature and it immediately starts to look like I
coated the wood in white soap.
What the hey. After a couple hours no change. Almost looks like I painted
the wood with white lead.
bw

I had the exact same thing happen to me when finishing three computer
desks. My first coat went fine but it "fogged" white during the second
coat. Even though it was temperate and dry inside, the temperature and
humidity outside was high and apparently some of the moisture seeped
into the poly. I ended up dipping the desktops to remove the poly and
recoating a week later and they came out fine.

`Casper

Last winter I had the same situation with Krylon sprays. I had a few
small projects and decided to spray bomb them with clear over Minwax
water base stain. The boxes I wanted to spray were a week dry but both
Krylon Acrylic Crystal Clear & Trilpe-Thick Crystal Clear Glaze both
fogger up something terrible after following the directions to the
letter. Through e-mail communication the conclusion was humidity. I
live in Florida which is notorious for humidity but it was winter so
I'd say it was about 40 to 50%, which is considered low for here. The
plus side worth noting are the people at Krylon were very apologetic
and even offered to send me two new cans, which I guess I can still
get but for small projects I'll stick with Rust-Oleum Lacquer High
Luster, which I never had a problem with even in summer... Ray,

On Friday, February 13, 2009 12:00:36 PM UTC-6, bw wrote:
Purchased last fall, opened yesterday. Stirred as usual, looked ok.
Applied with foam brush on test piece of medium pored teak-like wood.
Set aside at room temperature and it immediately starts to look like I
coated the wood in white soap.
What the hey. After a couple hours no change. Almost looks like I painted
the wood with white lead.

I've used this produce before without problems, but it "might" be some kind
of reaction with the wood.
The wood was purchased at a farm sale in a batch of other hard woods that
could have been over 30 years old. Some mahogany and what I thought was teak
but I can't imagine what the heck happened.

Maybe return the can to the store and try another batch.

I am having a similar problem with the same product. The first time I used it the room came out beautiful. The next room I did a week later is dull. I used a foam brush both times. I went and bought another can and went over it to get the sheen. Waited a week and did another room and the same problem again! Just no sheen at all! Maybe I have to buy small cans, so it's a new can each time. Depressing! I still have 4 rooms and a landing to go. I was wondering if I shouldn't be wiping my brush on the side of the can as I go? I just don't understand!

wrote:
On Friday, February 13, 2009 12:00:36 PM UTC-6, bw wrote:
Purchased last fall, opened yesterday. Stirred as usual, looked ok.
Applied with foam brush on test piece of medium pored teak-like wood.
Set aside at room temperature and it immediately starts to look like
I coated the wood in white soap.
What the hey. After a couple hours no change. Almost looks like I
painted the wood with white lead.

I've used this produce before without problems, but it "might" be
some kind of reaction with the wood.
The wood was purchased at a farm sale in a batch of other hard woods
that could have been over 30 years old. Some mahogany and what I
thought was teak but I can't imagine what the heck happened.

Maybe return the can to the store and try another batch.

I am having a similar problem with the same product. The first time
I used it the room came out beautiful. The next room I did a week
later is dull. I used a foam brush both times. I went and bought
another can and went over it to get the sheen. Waited a week and did
another room and the same problem again! Just no sheen at all!
Maybe I have to buy small cans, so it's a new can each time.
Depressing! I still have 4 rooms and a landing to go. I was
wondering if I shouldn't be wiping my brush on the side of the can as
I go? I just don't understand!

Boy, that sure does sound like oxidation in the can. I assume you stirred
properly before each application. I'm guessing that the fast dry
characteristic is what's biting you. Watch for comments from Robert
(Nailshooter). He'll have definitive commentary if he does reply.
Otherwise, I'd go with your plan and assume it's an oxidation issue.

--

-Mike-

"Mike Marlow" wrote in message
...
wrote:
On Friday, February 13, 2009 12:00:36 PM UTC-6, bw wrote:

I wonder if the OP figured out the problem sometime in the last 5 years?
--
Jim in NC




---
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Morgans wrote:
"Mike Marlow" wrote in message
...
wrote:
On Friday, February 13, 2009 12:00:36 PM UTC-6, bw wrote:

I wonder if the OP figured out the problem sometime in the last 5
years?

Geeze - I never notice these date stamps.

--

-Mike-

On 4/27/2014 5:43 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Morgans wrote:
"Mike wrote in message
...
wrote:
On Friday, February 13, 2009 12:00:36 PM UTC-6, bw wrote:

I wonder if the OP figured out the problem sometime in the last 5
years?

Geeze - I never notice these date stamps.

Recently in particular, if one sees a thread appear in your newsreader
already bearing the you can almost bet it's an ancient one that came
to life from google...

I've come to just ignore 'em entirely unless/until somebody makes a new
comment that interests.

Here, just in passing, as Michael notes in his response, there is
something of interest. My experience w/ the Minwax fast dry and blended
poly's is I won't touch 'em going forward.

I've used the traditional Minwax oil stains and rubbing oil products
with great success for 30+ yr as well as their early conventional poly's
(altho I don't use poly much at all) and recommend them highly. The
newer "labor saving" products I think are misguided and not worth
bringing home.

$0.02, imo, ymmv, etc., etc., etc., ...

--

On Saturday, April 26, 2014 8:17:08 PM UTC-5, Morgans wrote:
"Mike Marlow" wrote in message

...

wrote:

On Friday, February 13, 2009 12:00:36 PM UTC-6, bw wrote:



I wonder if the OP figured out the problem sometime in the last 5 years?

--

Jim in NC









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http://www.avast.com

Good info to have, though, in case this ever comes up, which apparently it does from time to time.

Moisture problem?
In the can, or brush, or humidity?
john

wrote in message
...

On Friday, February 13, 2009 12:00:36 PM UTC-6, bw wrote:
Purchased last fall, opened yesterday. Stirred as usual, looked ok.
Applied with foam brush on test piece of medium pored teak-like wood.
Set aside at room temperature and it immediately starts to look like I
coated the wood in white soap.
What the hey. After a couple hours no change. Almost looks like I painted
the wood with white lead.

I've used this produce before without problems, but it "might" be some
kind
of reaction with the wood.
The wood was purchased at a farm sale in a batch of other hard woods that
could have been over 30 years old. Some mahogany and what I thought was
teak
but I can't imagine what the heck happened.

Maybe return the can to the store and try another batch.

I am having a similar problem with the same product. The first time I used
it the room came out beautiful. The next room I did a week later is dull.
I used a foam brush both times. I went and bought another can and went
over it to get the sheen. Waited a week and did another room and the same
problem again! Just no sheen at all! Maybe I have to buy small cans, so
it's a new can each time. Depressing! I still have 4 rooms and a landing
to go. I was wondering if I shouldn't be wiping my brush on the side of the
can as I go? I just don't understand!

wrote in message
...
On Friday, February 13, 2009 12:00:36 PM UTC-6, bw wrote:
Purchased last fall, opened yesterday. Stirred as usual, looked ok.
Applied with foam brush on test piece of medium pored teak-like wood.
Set aside at room temperature and it immediately starts to look like I
coated the wood in white soap.
What the hey. After a couple hours no change. Almost looks like I painted
the wood with white lead.

I've used this produce before without problems, but it "might" be some
kind
of reaction with the wood.
The wood was purchased at a farm sale in a batch of other hard woods that
could have been over 30 years old. Some mahogany and what I thought was
teak
but I can't imagine what the heck happened.

Maybe return the can to the store and try another batch.

I am having a similar problem with the same product. The first time I used
it the room came out beautiful. The next room I did a week later is dull.
I used a foam brush both times. I went and bought another can and went
over it to get the sheen. Waited a week and did another room and the same
problem again! Just no sheen at all! Maybe I have to buy small cans, so
it's a new can each time. Depressing! I still have 4 rooms and a landing
to go. I was wondering if I shouldn't be wiping my brush on the side of the
can as I go? I just don't understand!

I didin't see it in any of the posts but you aren't by any chance using
satin or flat?

Baron wrote:
wrote in message
...
On Friday, February 13, 2009 12:00:36 PM UTC-6, bw wrote:
Purchased last fall, opened yesterday. Stirred as usual, looked ok.
Applied with foam brush on test piece of medium pored teak-like wood.
Set aside at room temperature and it immediately starts to look like
I coated the wood in white soap.
What the hey. After a couple hours no change. Almost looks like I
painted the wood with white lead.

I've used this produce before without problems, but it "might" be
some kind
of reaction with the wood.
The wood was purchased at a farm sale in a batch of other hard woods
that could have been over 30 years old. Some mahogany and what I
thought was teak
but I can't imagine what the heck happened.

Maybe return the can to the store and try another batch.

I am having a similar problem with the same product. The first time
I used it the room came out beautiful. The next room I did a week
later is dull. I used a foam brush both times. I went and bought
another can and went over it to get the sheen. Waited a week and did
another room and the same problem again! Just no sheen at all! Maybe I
have to buy small cans, so it's a new can each time. Depressing! I still
have 4 rooms and a landing to go. I was
wondering if I shouldn't be wiping my brush on the side of the can as
I go? I just don't understand!
I didin't see it in any of the posts but you aren't by any chance
using satin or flat?

Don't expect a reply. Like you, I replied earlier, not realizing that the
post I was replying to was something like 5 years old. Good chance the
poster is not still looking for responses... That said - I doubt it's a
matter of satin or flat. She said the same product worked as she desired on
a previous project. And... the description of the problem is not one of a
satin or flat finish versus a gloss finish.

--

-Mike-

Just bought a spray can of minwax polyurathane for my final coat on an old walnut table. Previous coats had been minwax polyurathane fast drying rub-on with sanding in between. I live in a arid region of the country, so I know moisture is not a problem. The spray can of minwax left a milky, rough finish. I will sand it off tomorrow and go back to my hand rub routine. Very disappointing product and waste of money!

wrote:

Just bought a spray can of minwax polyurathane for my final coat on
an old walnut table. Previous coats had been minwax polyurathane fast
drying rub-on with sanding in between. I live in a arid region of the
country, so I know moisture is not a problem. The spray can of minwax
left a milky, rough finish. I will sand it off tomorrow and go back
to my hand rub routine. Very disappointing product and waste of
money!

Your best advise... call mixwax. Not trying to be wise - call them.

--

-Mike-

Mike Marlow wrote:
wrote:

Just bought a spray can of minwax polyurathane for my final coat on
an old walnut table. Previous coats had been minwax polyurathane fast
drying rub-on with sanding in between. I live in a arid region of the
country, so I know moisture is not a problem. The spray can of minwax
left a milky, rough finish. I will sand it off tomorrow and go back
to my hand rub routine. Very disappointing product and waste of
money!

Your best advise... call mixwax. Not trying to be wise - call them.

Sorry for replying to my own reply, but did you follow the diredtions for
re-coating? Did you scuff the surface before applying your spray product?

--

-Mike-

On 6/1/2014 5:43 PM, wrote:

Just bought a spray can of minwax polyurathane for my final coat on an old walnut table. Previous coats had been minwax polyurathane fast drying rub-on with sanding in between. I live in a arid region of the country, so I know moisture is not a problem. The spray can of minwax left a milky, rough finish. I will sand it off tomorrow and go back to my hand rub routine. Very disappointing product and waste of money!


I have used two separate cans, satin and semi-gloss, almost every day
this past week of this exact product, making stain samples for color
decisions for a client, and have not had a problem.

Call Min-Wax.

FWIW, I do not sand or scuff in between coats with this product and have
yet to have a problem.

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 6/2/2014 6:37 AM, Swingman wrote:
I have used two separate cans, satin and semi-gloss, almost every day
this past week of this exact product, making stain samples for color
decisions for a client, and have not had a problem.

One other thing. If you are using anything but "gloss", IOW a satin or
semi-gloss product, she simply may not have shaken the can enough.

When the direction say shake for two minutes, particularly with a
product that has particulates in it to cause a sheen, the need to
thoroughly mix the product is critical.

Go back, shake well and test it on a board to see if the the blush still
happens.

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

Swingman wrote:

One other thing. If you are using anything but "gloss", IOW a satin or
semi-gloss product, she simply may not have shaken the can enough.

When the direction say shake for two minutes, particularly with a
product that has particulates in it to cause a sheen, the need to
thoroughly mix the product is critical.


Absolutely correct - and Karl claims he don't know nuthin' 'bout spraying
finishes... I can only say that I strenuously agree with him on this! I
learned a long time ago that the smart guys that they hire to come up with
this crap know a lot more than me, and so I trust in what they say. Of
course, I learned that the hard way...

Go back, shake well and test it on a board to see if the the blush
still happens.

I'll bet it does not. Poly does not generally blush. That's more a lacquer
characteristic. Even with lacquer, it's related to humidity and that is not
an issue for this poster. I have to believe (at first guess with minimal
information), that the problem really does lie in the proper use of the
product.

--

-Mike-

Swingman wrote:


I have used two separate cans, satin and semi-gloss, almost every day
this past week of this exact product, making stain samples for color
decisions for a client, and have not had a problem.

Call Min-Wax.

FWIW, I do not sand or scuff in between coats with this product and
have yet to have a problem.

So now you've peaked my curiosity Karl. How long do you typically wait
between coats?

--

-Mike-

On 6/2/2014 7:21 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Swingman wrote:


I have used two separate cans, satin and semi-gloss, almost every day
this past week of this exact product, making stain samples for color
decisions for a client, and have not had a problem.

Call Min-Wax.

FWIW, I do not sand or scuff in between coats with this product and
have yet to have a problem.

So now you've peaked my curiosity Karl. How long do you typically wait
between coats?

For this product, I apply a thin coat and re-coat in _no more_ than two
hours, per manufacturer's specific instructions, normally 20 to 30 minutes.

I'm one of those who hates finishing so much that I actually, and
religiously, follow the manufacturer's directions to a "T".

To paraphrase their directions for recoating with this product: "if you
wait more than two hours to re-coat, you must then wait 72 hours, then
sand/scuff before re-coating."

Don't have that much time to waste ...

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KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

Swingman wrote:
On 6/2/2014 7:21 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Swingman wrote:


I have used two separate cans, satin and semi-gloss, almost every
day this past week of this exact product, making stain samples for
color decisions for a client, and have not had a problem.

Call Min-Wax.

FWIW, I do not sand or scuff in between coats with this product and
have yet to have a problem.

So now you've peaked my curiosity Karl. How long do you typically
wait between coats?

For this product, I apply a thin coat and re-coat in _no more_ than
two hours, per manufacturer's specific instructions, normally 20 to
30 minutes.
I'm one of those who hates finishing so much that I actually, and
religiously, follow the manufacturer's directions to a "T".

To paraphrase their directions for recoating with this product: "if
you wait more than two hours to re-coat, you must then wait 72 hours,
then sand/scuff before re-coating."

Don't have that much time to waste ...

In the course of this entire dialog, I just became aware of one of those
perspective things. When I think of poly, I think brush application -
because that's how I usually apply poly to wood. I'm systematic in how I do
that - very wet coats, spread - not brushed on the work piece. So - (my
bad...) that's what I think of by default when poly topics come up. I guess
I haven't figured out yet, how to think outside of my own box...

Now, having finally realized that you might just be talking about spraying
with rattle cans (spraying to me of course, means a big ass compressor and
really good spray guns...), I'm suddenly struck by one of those light bulb
moments.

D'Oh - sometimes it takes so damned long for the obvious to become clear...

--

-Mike-

In article ,
wrote:

Just bought a spray can of minwax polyurathane for my final coat on an old
walnut table. Previous coats had been minwax polyurathane fast drying rub-on
with sanding in between. I live in a arid region of the country, so I know
moisture is not a problem. The spray can of minwax left a milky, rough
finish. I will sand it off tomorrow and go back to my hand rub routine. Very
disappointing product and waste of money!


How far away did you hold the can? If too faraway, it will definitely
leave a rough finish. Not sure about milky, but rough for sure.

Despite an old post, a relevant aspect (maybe) can be gleaned.

Stirring properly and following can instructions may have been a part of the OP's problem, but I think moisture contributed to the issue.

The OP said the wood was stored in the garage (in essence, outdoors, cold temps?), yet the work place was a "heated porch". He/she said the wood "... "feels" moist". He/she may not have allowed the wood's temp to acclimate to the work place's higher temp, hence, there may (likely?) had been slight condensation on the wood surface. I assume, quick condensation formed on the can's lid, also, apparently (again, I assume, by what the OP said) immediately after opening.

In the OP's (I assume) colder climate location, plus the garage vs heated porch immediate environment, there may have been a significant temp difference to cause some condensation, despite his/hers generally dry climate. A significant temp difference, from garage to work place, can negate the general dry climate arena.

Op said he/she had used the product, before, with no problems. What might have been the difference in the two work scenarios, circumstances.... Weather conditions, prep conditions, temp acclimation, something else, including can instructions?

Where was the poly stored? Was its temperature greatly different from the wood and/or porch area, also? ...and compare this to the previous "no problem" usage.

Sonny

Sonny wrote:
Despite an old post, a relevant aspect (maybe) can be gleaned.

Stirring properly and following can instructions may have been a part
of the OP's problem, but I think moisture contributed to the issue.

Maybe, but...


The OP said the wood was stored in the garage (in essence, outdoors,
cold temps?), yet the work place was a "heated porch". He/she said
the wood "... "feels" moist". He/she may not have allowed the wood's
temp to acclimate to the work place's higher temp, hence, there may
(likely?) had been slight condensation on the wood surface. I
assume, quick condensation formed on the can's lid, also, apparently
(again, I assume, by what the OP said) immediately after opening.


Just to set the record... this is what my newsreader shows as the original
post (despite it being long aged...). I don't see anything in the OP that
talks about storage in the garage, heated porches, cold temps, feeling
moist, etc. Are you referencing a different post when you refer to the OP?

On Friday, February 13, 2009 12:00:36 PM UTC-6, bw wrote:
Purchased last fall, opened yesterday. Stirred as usual, looked ok.
Applied with foam brush on test piece of medium pored teak-like wood.
Set aside at room temperature and it immediately starts to look like I
coated the wood in white soap.
What the hey. After a couple hours no change. Almost looks like I painted
the wood with white lead.

I've used this produce before without problems, but it "might" be some
kind
of reaction with the wood.
The wood was purchased at a farm sale in a batch of other hard woods that
could have been over 30 years old. Some mahogany and what I thought was
teak
but I can't imagine what the heck happened.

Maybe return the can to the store and try another batch.

************* End of Included Text ******************


--

-Mike-

On Tuesday, June 3, 2014 11:44:17 AM UTC-5, Mike Marlow wrote:

Mike, here's what I'm seeing, additional to the original post:

bw, the poster's follow-up posts:

"-----------------------------------------------
Doubt it, it's been very dry around here this winter. Wood stored on high
rack in garage.
Test piece was sanded as usual along the grain. Wood does "feel" moist or
greasy to touch.
It might be that I'm not that experienced with tropical wood.

Tested another piece with mineral oil and it really looks good so I'll skip
the poly."

Then he later posted:

"Excellent !! I do have a paint mixer bit, but it seemed aggressive for a
quart of poly.
My work area is a partially heated enclosed porch, the temp was lower than
RT.
My poly experience had been with "gloss" or "stain" and used right after
purchase.
Now I'm confident that poor mixing was my problem. Thanks for responding."

Sonny

Below is the post I responded to:

On 6/1/2014 5:43 PM, wrote:

Just bought a spray can of minwax polyurathane for my final coat on an old walnut table. Previous coats had been minwax polyurathane fast drying rub-on with sanding in between. I live in a arid region of the country, so I know moisture is not a problem. The spray can of minwax left a milky, rough finish. I will sand it off tomorrow and go back to my hand rub routine. Very disappointing product and waste of money!



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KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 6/2/2014 6:37 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 6/1/2014 5:43 PM, wrote:

Just bought a spray can of minwax polyurathane for my final coat on an
old walnut table. Previous coats had been minwax polyurathane fast
drying rub-on with sanding in between. I live in a arid region of the
country, so I know moisture is not a problem. The spray can of minwax
left a milky, rough finish. I will sand it off tomorrow and go back to
my hand rub routine. Very disappointing product and waste of money!


I have used two separate cans, satin and semi-gloss, almost every day
this past week of this exact product, making stain samples for color
decisions for a client, and have not had a problem.

Funny thing ... I was using these same rattle cans yesterday to do
another couple of stain color samples and decided to change the spray
pattern from vertical to horizontal; something that can be done with
these new rattle cans with a twist of the nozzle, as you would expect
with today's technology.

Lo and behold ... after making a few normal passes with the spray
pattern to vertical, I changed the spray pattern to horizontal and the
spray immediately came out milky/cloudy on the surface of the piece.

(Obviously a _moisture related_ phenomenon - most likely due to the
expansion of the compressed gas changing the relative temperature
(PV=nRT) of the different nozzle passages, then reacting with the hot
humid air).

Didn't last long, but my initial reaction, and remembering this thread,
was WTF??

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KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

Swingman wrote:


Lo and behold ... after making a few normal passes with the spray
pattern to vertical, I changed the spray pattern to horizontal and the
spray immediately came out milky/cloudy on the surface of the piece.

(Obviously a _moisture related_ phenomenon - most likely due to the
expansion of the compressed gas changing the relative temperature
(PV=nRT) of the different nozzle passages, then reacting with the hot
humid air).

Didn't last long, but my initial reaction, and remembering this
thread, was WTF??

Guessing here, but maybe close...but a little different. Not so much
moisture related, as simply related to the atomization of the product. When
you switch over, it probably takes a short bit for the nozzle to properly
re-adjust for proper atomization. Just a guess...

--

-Mike-

I had the same problem. Used a blow dryer.Takes the white out!

This JUST happened to me? It is the oddest thing! I have never seen this happen before. I had stained my fireplace, waited a few days...then put on the polyurethane and it streaked it white...as if I had let water sit on it or something. Did anyone ever give you a reason why this happened? I have used the exact same polyurethane before and the product was great. I am so confused...hence I googled to see if anyone else has had this problem. Let me know if you have any answers.