Minwax fast drying polyurethane dries to white haze
 

Purchased last fall, opened yesterday. Stirred as usual, looked ok.
Applied with foam brush on test piece of medium pored teak-like wood.
Set aside at room temperature and it immediately starts to look like I
coated the wood in white soap.
What the hey. After a couple hours no change. Almost looks like I painted
the wood with white lead.

I've used this produce before without problems, but it "might" be some kind
of reaction with the wood.
The wood was purchased at a farm sale in a batch of other hard woods that
could have been over 30 years old. Some mahogany and what I thought was teak
but I can't imagine what the heck happened.

Maybe return the can to the store and try another batch.

Minwax fast drying polyurethane dries to white haze
 

bw wrote:
Purchased last fall, opened yesterday. Stirred as usual, looked ok.
Applied with foam brush on test piece of medium pored teak-like wood.
Set aside at room temperature and it immediately starts to look like I
coated the wood in white soap.
What the hey. After a couple hours no change. Almost looks like I
painted the wood with white lead.

I've used this produce before without problems, but it "might" be
some kind of reaction with the wood.
The wood was purchased at a farm sale in a batch of other hard woods
that could have been over 30 years old. Some mahogany and what I
thought was teak but I can't imagine what the heck happened.

Maybe return the can to the store and try another batch.

Could there be moisture in the sample wood???

P D Q

Minwax fast drying polyurethane dries to white haze
 

This sound like blush for sure which is moisture captured in the
finish before it has a chance to evaporate. I've only seen it with
lacquer but maybe this "fast dry" is acting like lacquer and skinning
over very fast, not allowing the moisture to evaoprate. With lacquer
we add a retarder to slow the skinning to allow the moisture to
escape. Typically only seen when you have high humidity.

A few possibilities a
- Moisture in material. I guess unlikely if this was the first time it
was ever opened.
- Shelf life problem and something went bad in the can.
- High moisture content in the wood.

I am not familiar with this product. Is it water based? If it is oil
based, maybe try thinning it with some mineral spirits to maybe
increase the open time to let the moisture escape. If water based, is
there a thinner you can use, maybe flowtrol or something? Also, is
this semi-gloss or satin? Those sheen killers are just white paint
pigment so maybe somehow it got out of balance and you got all of it
in one coat.

On Feb 13, 10:00*am, "bw" wrote:
Purchased last fall, opened yesterday. Stirred as usual, looked ok.
Applied with foam brush on test piece of medium pored teak-like wood.
Set aside at room temperature and it immediately starts to look like I
coated the wood in white soap.
What the hey. After a couple hours no change. Almost looks like I painted
the wood with white lead.

I've used this produce before without problems, but it "might" be some kind
of reaction with the wood.
The wood was purchased at a farm sale in a batch of other hard woods that
could have been over 30 years old. Some mahogany and what I thought was teak
but I can't imagine what the heck happened.

Maybe return the can to the store and try another batch.

Minwax fast drying polyurethane dries to white haze
 

"SonomaProducts.com" wrote in message
...
This sound like blush for sure which is moisture captured in the
finish before it has a chance to evaporate. I've only seen it with
lacquer but maybe this "fast dry" is acting like lacquer and skinning
over very fast, not allowing the moisture to evaoprate. With lacquer
we add a retarder to slow the skinning to allow the moisture to
escape. Typically only seen when you have high humidity.

A few possibilities a
- Moisture in material. I guess unlikely if this was the first time it
was ever opened.
- Shelf life problem and something went bad in the can.
- High moisture content in the wood.

I am not familiar with this product. Is it water based? If it is oil
based, maybe try thinning it with some mineral spirits to maybe
increase the open time to let the moisture escape. If water based, is
there a thinner you can use, maybe flowtrol or something? Also, is
this semi-gloss or satin? Those sheen killers are just white paint
pigment so maybe somehow it got out of balance and you got all of it
in one coat.

Oil based, satin. It's a quart can.
Now that I think about it, while I stirred the can to mix the bottom layer
for a while I looked at the lid and noticed it had the white soapy color, so
then I touched the white with the foam brush first to see what it would do.
Some of the white was already soaked in the brush when I dipped it in the
main can.

I ended up sanding the white off and trying something else. Now I'll take
more time mixing, I didn't know that the sheen killers were white pigment.

Minwax fast drying polyurethane dries to white haze
 

"PDQ" wrote in message
...
bw wrote:
Purchased last fall, opened yesterday. Stirred as usual, looked ok.
Applied with foam brush on test piece of medium pored teak-like wood.
Set aside at room temperature and it immediately starts to look like I
coated the wood in white soap.
What the hey. After a couple hours no change. Almost looks like I
painted the wood with white lead.

I've used this produce before without problems, but it "might" be
some kind of reaction with the wood.
The wood was purchased at a farm sale in a batch of other hard woods
that could have been over 30 years old. Some mahogany and what I
thought was teak but I can't imagine what the heck happened.

Maybe return the can to the store and try another batch.

Could there be moisture in the sample wood???

P D Q
-----------------------------------------------
Doubt it, it's been very dry around here this winter. Wood stored on high
rack in garage.
Test piece was sanded as usual along the grain. Wood does "feel" moist or
greasy to touch.
It might be that I'm not that experienced with tropical wood.

Tested another piece with mineral oil and it really looks good so I'll skip
the poly.

Minwax fast drying polyurethane dries to white haze
 

Purchased last fall, opened yesterday. Stirred as usual, looked ok.
Applied with foam brush on test piece of medium pored teak-like wood.
Set aside at room temperature and it immediately starts to look like I
coated the wood in white soap.
What the hey. After a couple hours no change. Almost looks like I painted
the wood with white lead.
bw

I had the exact same thing happen to me when finishing three computer
desks. My first coat went fine but it "fogged" white during the second
coat. Even though it was temperate and dry inside, the temperature and
humidity outside was high and apparently some of the moisture seeped
into the poly. I ended up dipping the desktops to remove the poly and
recoating a week later and they came out fine.

`Casper

Minwax fast drying polyurethane dries to white haze
 

On Feb 13, 10:58*pm, "bw" wrote:
"SonomaProducts.com" wrote in message

...
This sound like blush for sure which is moisture captured in the
finish before it has a chance to evaporate. I've only seen it with
lacquer but maybe this "fast dry" is acting like lacquer and skinning
over very fast, not allowing the moisture to evaoprate. With lacquer
we add a retarder to slow the skinning to allow the moisture to
escape. Typically only seen when you have high humidity.

A few possibilities a
- Moisture in material. I guess unlikely if this was the first time it
was ever opened.
- Shelf life problem and something went bad in the can.
- High moisture content in the wood.

I am not familiar with this product. Is it water based? If it is oil
based, maybe try thinning it with some mineral spirits to maybe
increase the open time to let the moisture escape. If water based, is
there a thinner you can use, maybe flowtrol or something? Also, is
this semi-gloss or satin? Those sheen killers are just white paint
pigment so maybe somehow it got out of balance and you got all of it
in one coat.

As usual, Sr. Sonoma is on his game. FWIW, I agree.

I ended up sanding the white off and trying something else. Now I'll take
more time mixing, I didn't know that the sheen killers were white pigment..

Actually, the shine killers that break the reflectivity are usually
some type of silica, flat ground to the manufacturer's specs.

These will easily collect on the bottom of the can if the material is
old, or in my experience, been exposed to a lot of different temp
changes. (For example, here we have had some days lately where the
overnight temp was 35 - 40 degrees different from the day temps).

Do yourself a favor. Go to the hardware store and buy yourself a
paint stirring gizmo with the spiral configuration on the end. Put
that on the end of your drill and stir your material, no matter what
it is, for at least three minutes in a quart sized can. More for a
gallon, even more for a five gallon.

Don't whip any air into your material when you are stirring. Air will
make bubble in your finish, even after application. A low mix speed
works fine. When the semi gloss, satin clear coat is properly mixed
it will look like clear amber in the can. Some clear flats look a bit
cloudy, but consistent. Never white.

Robert

Minwax fast drying polyurethane dries to white haze
 

wrote in message
...

Actually, the shine killers that break the reflectivity are usually
some type of silica, flat ground to the manufacturer's specs.

These will easily collect on the bottom of the can if the material is
old, or in my experience, been exposed to a lot of different temp
changes. (For example, here we have had some days lately where the
overnight temp was 35 - 40 degrees different from the day temps).

Do yourself a favor. Go to the hardware store and buy yourself a
paint stirring gizmo with the spiral configuration on the end. Put
that on the end of your drill and stir your material, no matter what
it is, for at least three minutes in a quart sized can. More for a
gallon, even more for a five gallon.

Don't whip any air into your material when you are stirring. Air will
make bubble in your finish, even after application. A low mix speed
works fine. When the semi gloss, satin clear coat is properly mixed
it will look like clear amber in the can. Some clear flats look a bit
cloudy, but consistent. Never white.

Robert

Excellent !! I do have a paint mixer bit, but it seemed aggressive for a
quart of poly.
My work area is a partially heated enclosed porch, the temp was lower than
RT.
My poly experience had been with "gloss" or "stain" and used right after
purchase.
Now I'm confident that poor mixing was my problem. Thanks for responding.

Minwax fast drying polyurethane dries to white haze
 

Last winter I had the same situation with Krylon sprays. I had a few
small projects and decided to spray bomb them with clear over Minwax
water base stain. The boxes I wanted to spray were a week dry but both
Krylon Acrylic Crystal Clear & Trilpe-Thick Crystal Clear Glaze both
fogger up something terrible after following the directions to the
letter. Through e-mail communication the conclusion was humidity. I
live in Florida which is notorious for humidity but it was winter so
I'd say it was about 40 to 50%, which is considered low for here. The
plus side worth noting are the people at Krylon were very apologetic
and even offered to send me two new cans, which I guess I can still
get but for small projects I'll stick with Rust-Oleum Lacquer High
Luster, which I never had a problem with even in summer... Ray,

Minwax fast drying polyurethane dries to white haze
 

On Friday, February 13, 2009 12:00:36 PM UTC-6, bw wrote:
Purchased last fall, opened yesterday. Stirred as usual, looked ok.
Applied with foam brush on test piece of medium pored teak-like wood.
Set aside at room temperature and it immediately starts to look like I
coated the wood in white soap.
What the hey. After a couple hours no change. Almost looks like I painted
the wood with white lead.

I've used this produce before without problems, but it "might" be some kind
of reaction with the wood.
The wood was purchased at a farm sale in a batch of other hard woods that
could have been over 30 years old. Some mahogany and what I thought was teak
but I can't imagine what the heck happened.

Maybe return the can to the store and try another batch.

I am having a similar problem with the same product. The first time I used it the room came out beautiful. The next room I did a week later is dull. I used a foam brush both times. I went and bought another can and went over it to get the sheen. Waited a week and did another room and the same problem again! Just no sheen at all! Maybe I have to buy small cans, so it's a new can each time. Depressing! I still have 4 rooms and a landing to go. I was wondering if I shouldn't be wiping my brush on the side of the can as I go? I just don't understand!