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Old June 15th 06, 05:38 AM posted to rec.woodworking
GARY
 
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Our table has a factory-applied lacquer finish over a dark, walnut
stain. Over many years, the table has been polished many times with a
liquid furniture polish,

Yesterday, I brushed MinWax Fast-Drying polyurethane on the table.
After the polyurethane dried, a very white "haze" and a lot of small
bubbles developed under the polyurethane (most likely a reaction
between the polyurethane and the underlying furniture polish).

Now, how can I remove the polyurethane and the polish so I can re-apply
the polyurethane?


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Old June 15th 06, 06:39 AM posted to rec.woodworking
 
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Default White haze


GARY wrote:
Our table has a factory-applied lacquer finish over a dark, walnut
stain. Over many years, the table has been polished many times with a
liquid furniture polish,

Yesterday, I brushed MinWax Fast-Drying polyurethane on the table.
After the polyurethane dried, a very white "haze" and a lot of small
bubbles developed under the polyurethane (most likely a reaction
between the polyurethane and the underlying furniture polish).

Now, how can I remove the polyurethane and the polish so I can re-apply
the polyurethane?


Some pretty good advice and alternate techniques he

http://tinyurl.com/fpso5

If you have been using the silicone type polish, after you remove the
finish you should plan on sanding and cleaning with lacquer thinner or
something like acetone before resealing. One invisible blotch of that
stuff under the finish and you will a problem.

Robert

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Old June 15th 06, 09:04 AM posted to rec.woodworking
GARY
 
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Default White haze

Hello, Robert,

I read the entire thread at http://tinyurl.com/fpso5.

Eliminating some of the off-the-subject comments, a number of good
suggestions remain. However I don't know which would yield the results
I'm looking for so I'll re-state my situation:

The Minwax Fast-Drying Polyurethane was applied over many years' of
liquid furniture polish (like Pledge, Old English, etc) which is on top
of the original, factory-applied lacquer (?) finish and dark, walnut
stain.

How can I remove only the polyurethane and the polish so the original
lacquer and stain remain?

Thanks,

Gary

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Old June 15th 06, 09:07 AM posted to rec.woodworking
GARY
 
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Default White haze

Hello, Robert,

I read the entire thread at http://tinyurl.com/fpso5.

Eliminating some of the off-the-subject comments, a number of good
suggestions remain. However I don't know which would yield the results
I'm looking for so I'll re-state my situation:

The Minwax Fast-Drying Polyurethane was applied over many years' of
liquid furniture polish (like Pledge, Old English, etc) which is on top
of the original, factory-applied lacquer (?) finish and dark, walnut
stain.

How can I remove only the polyurethane and the polish so the original
lacquer and stain remain?

Thanks,

Gary

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Old June 15th 06, 10:25 AM posted to rec.woodworking
J. Clarke
 
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Default White haze

GARY wrote:

Hello, Robert,

I read the entire thread at http://tinyurl.com/fpso5.

Eliminating some of the off-the-subject comments, a number of good
suggestions remain. However I don't know which would yield the results
I'm looking for so I'll re-state my situation:

The Minwax Fast-Drying Polyurethane was applied over many years' of
liquid furniture polish (like Pledge, Old English, etc) which is on top
of the original, factory-applied lacquer (?) finish and dark, walnut
stain.

How can I remove only the polyurethane and the polish so the original
lacquer and stain remain?


With a dental drill and a good magnifier and far, _far_ more patience than I
have.

You're not going to find a stripper that will selectively remove
polyurethane but not lacquer.

If you're willing to risk damaging the lacquer you could try a card
scraper--if you're _very_ lucky the accumulated furniture polish might act
as a release compound and let the polyurethane peel off without a lot of
fuss. Trouble is that it's easy to dig too deep and may be difficult to
see where the poly ends and the lacquer begins.

The bottom line on this is that unless the piece is a very, _very_ valuable
antique you're going to be better off to just strip the whole thing and
refinish.

--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)


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Old June 15th 06, 01:17 PM posted to rec.woodworking
Mike Marlow
 
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"GARY" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hello, Robert,

I read the entire thread at http://tinyurl.com/fpso5.

Eliminating some of the off-the-subject comments, a number of good
suggestions remain. However I don't know which would yield the results
I'm looking for so I'll re-state my situation:

The Minwax Fast-Drying Polyurethane was applied over many years' of
liquid furniture polish (like Pledge, Old English, etc) which is on top
of the original, factory-applied lacquer (?) finish and dark, walnut
stain.

How can I remove only the polyurethane and the polish so the original
lacquer and stain remain?


Wet sand it down Gary. Use a very fine paper like 600 grit or so and plan
on spending some time at it. If you look carefully as you progress your way
through the layers, you should see when you get through the poly and to the
factory lacquer. You will see "edges". Don't worry if you get slightly
into the factory lacquer. It won't hurt it. In fact if you took all of the
poly off and found yourself slightly into the factory finish across the
entire table top, you could then switch to a much finer paper like 1200 or
1500 and follow that with a buffer and find yourself staring at a nice
factory looking finish again. (Assuming the factory finish was not all
dinged up, etc.).

Use a sanding block so that you get even distribution of pressure. Don't
try to sand by hand or you will end up with high spots and low spots. Maybe
even digs in the finish. Also - 600 is about as coarse as you'd want to go
on a finish. Be careful as you can burn through quicker than you might
think. Take the time to watch how it is going. Wet sanding finishes, no
matter what they are on, is a practice in patience. You're finessing a
piece of work. Finally - it's ok to cuss a bit while wet sanding.

--

-Mike-



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Old June 15th 06, 03:21 PM posted to rec.woodworking
[email protected]
 
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Default White haze


GARY wrote:
Hello, Robert,


SNIP


How can I remove only the polyurethane and the polish so the original
lacquer and stain remain?

Thanks,

Gary



You changed the parameters. I agree with Mr. Clark... there is no way
to selectively remove finish in your case. The combination of non
compatible finishes compromised by whatever was in the furniture polish
has you up against it. The original finish was indeed probably lacquer
and your polish didn't react to it since it was forumlated (as are most
furniture products) to be compatible with lacquer.

But when you put your coat of plastic on it (poly) the shining agents
and the stuff they use to make it feel slick and easy to dust were
probably silicones of some kind, and probably some kind of oil. This
is what compromised your finish.

I have never seen Mr. Marlow's advice anything but spot on, and he
certainly has helped me. However... if you want to wet sand off
polyurethane, be my guest. If you do, you will have a really smooth
surface and you won't know when you have cut away all the poly and
polish unless you get some really nice witness lines. That may or may
not happen. And you won't know for sure if you get all the bad stuff
off, which could leave some behind to sabotage your future finish
efforts.

So, for me it would be strip, sand, wash coat conditioner lightly
sanded, stained/toned to match, then seal. And no more furniture
polish. Good finishes dont' need polish. Clean them with a barely
damp rag of a plain duster and quit.

Robert



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