I want to buy a dresser and have found one I like. This one

http://www.roomandboard.com/rnb/prod...=377444&cat=38

but I don't know anything about construction and wood quality. So I'm
worried I might be paying 1500 for something that is IKEA quality.
What questions do I ask to determine if it's "worth it" for the price?

wrote in message
oups.com...
I want to buy a dresser and have found one I like. This one

http://www.roomandboard.com/rnb/prod...=377444&cat=38

but I don't know anything about construction and wood quality. So I'm
worried I might be paying 1500 for something that is IKEA quality.
What questions do I ask to determine if it's "worth it" for the price?


Unfortunately, the person/salesman you are asking probably does not know
either.

A few thinks I look for are,

Dovetail on the drawers AND ARE THEY SANDED SMOOTH? Did the manufacturer
care enough to smooth the joints.

Can you really put something in the drawer or is the drawer simply a pretty
part on a closed dresser? A drawer should be deep, front to back. Do the
drawers pull out over 12"?

Do the drawers slide smoothly WITH OUT mechanical slides?

To tell you the truth, $1500 is probably not going to get a dresser that
answer my questions favorably.

A dresser should be well built, nice to look at, and have "lots" of storage.

Unfortunately, the person/salesman you are asking probably does not know
either.

At most retailers, you're probably right. You could look into
Stickley, especially if you live near central NY and can make it to
one of their factory sales. Even modern Stickley is clearly mass-
produced with the associated shortcuts once you start looking, though.
The first thing I would check is whether it's solid wood - I haven't
shopped for dressers so I don't know what you'll find at any given
price point, but particleboard, plywood, etc. seem almost ubiquitous.
I would argue that plywood may have a place in "real" furniture, but
if the piece is made of real wood, that SHOULD imply that some more
time and possibly care went into making it, and it won't become a
sponge (like particleboard) if it somehow gets wet. Also, if/when it
needs to be repaired or refinished, real wood gives you something with
which to work. To check for real wood, I'd look inside the case, and
at the ends and sides of boards - does the grain match around
corners? Is there end grain visible anywhere? Are there several
matching panels, as would occur if adjacent layers of veneer were
bookmatched or used for drawer fronts?
Dovetails should make a solid joint, even if they're made by machine
(and I can't imagine you'd find handcut dovetails on anything except a
100% custom piece for which you've talked to the maker). How are the
backs and bottoms of the drawers attached, and can the bottoms be
replaced? How thick are the drawer bottoms (if they're thin
hardboard, they'll sag)? How are the handles attached to the drawers,
and will you be able to tighten them if they loosen over time? How
much play is there in the drawer when you wiggle it side to side? I
can't add much about drawer slides, but I'd definitely stay away from
anything that looks thin or feels cheap.
Hope this helps - but remember that most free advice is worth
approximately what you paid for it.
Good luck,
Andy

A very interesting question. First of all, asking is no substitute for
looking. The salesman has one objective and that is to make the sale.
Yesterday my wife and I were in a furniture store, high end, with the most
unbelievable junk on display. Opening drawers revealed warped drawer
bottoms. Doors did not fit openings, knobs were not symmetrical etc. It
can be really hard to tell if real wood was used or not. We got fooled on a
set of kitchen cabinets. Looked great, when installed we discovered they
were VERY thin veneer over flakeboard. If there are adjustable shelves
looking inside the holes can reveal the truth. It is totally a matter of
buyer beware!
Dave
wrote in message
oups.com...
I want to buy a dresser and have found one I like. This one

http://www.roomandboard.com/rnb/prod...=377444&cat=38

but I don't know anything about construction and wood quality. So I'm
worried I might be paying 1500 for something that is IKEA quality.
What questions do I ask to determine if it's "worth it" for the price?

"Andy" wrote in message
oups.com...
Unfortunately, the person/salesman you are asking probably does not know
either.

At most retailers, you're probably right. You could look into
Stickley, especially if you live near central NY and can make it to
one of their factory sales.

Keep in mind that he has a $1500 limit. That eleminates Stickley. The last
new Stickley dresser I saw was about 3 times more expensive.

On May 17, 11:08 pm, "
wrote:
I want to buy a dresser and have found one I like. This one

http://www.roomandboard.com/rnb/prod...d=991299&coll=...

but I don't know anything about construction and wood quality. So I'm
worried I might be paying 1500 for something that is IKEA quality.
What questions do I ask to determine if it's "worth it" for the price?

The drawer fronts are likely solid maple. (No big deal, not that it's
birds-eye or anything)
The case-work, veneered something.

Sooo.. let's see here. $ 1500.00 retail. He needs to make 50 points
(minimum 35) margin, which means he bought it for $ 750.00. The guy
that made it, wants 50 points as well.
That means it shouldn't cost him more than $375.00. That includes his
labour and packaging.
That leaves us a couple of hundred in materials. (I am being very
generous here.)
It also leaves no room for skilled labour.

I can assure you of one thing though. There is far worse crap out
there than IKEA. It is what it is, and not what it is trying to be
like the piece you linked us to. That piece, would likely sell at IKEA
for less than half that price..in fact wayyyy less... and the quality
wouldn't be that different.
Just a hunch.

Take this picture and walk it around a local wood show. Chat with the
tool stores. Ask around. You could find somebody who would make you
that same piece, better quality, for about the same price. Either an
eager young up-start or a retired gentleman who has to justify a new
tool to his sweetie.
Are there any vocational schools around you?

Option # 2: buy 750 dollars worth of tools and 750 dollars worth of
materials and do it yourself. Build 2. Sell one... etc.

I agree, expensive stores are selling junk made in China with rough
splintery warped cheap woods. We were looking for bedroom furniture and
found nothing that I would buy. Even the drawers were assembled with
knock-down fittings not dovetail joints.

Finally found a local store that sold locally made solid hardwood furniture
with good designs. While it was far from cheap it wasn't totally out of the
world in price. The only man-made material was plywood backs. We bought this
during an annual sale.

"Dave W" wrote in message
...
A very interesting question. First of all, asking is no substitute for
looking. The salesman has one objective and that is to make the sale.
Yesterday my wife and I were in a furniture store, high end, with the most
unbelievable junk on display. Opening drawers revealed warped drawer
bottoms. Doors did not fit openings, knobs were not symmetrical etc. It
can be really hard to tell if real wood was used or not. We got fooled on
a set of kitchen cabinets. Looked great, when installed we discovered they
were VERY thin veneer over flakeboard. If there are adjustable shelves
looking inside the holes can reveal the truth. It is totally a matter of
buyer beware!
Dave
wrote in message
oups.com...
I want to buy a dresser and have found one I like. This one

http://www.roomandboard.com/rnb/prod...=377444&cat=38

but I don't know anything about construction and wood quality. So I'm
worried I might be paying 1500 for something that is IKEA quality.
What questions do I ask to determine if it's "worth it" for the price?

If you pick up a book about how to build some product, you should notice
whats up when checking one out. And if it gives you options, you can form
your own impressions about you would really like , or your preferences wrt
construction. -but if you do it tghis way, it can .....Things just fall
into place. e.g "Making Cabinets[Dressers/High Boys/Armoires]"; try the
library. Its a good question, but the fact is, its just the best way to
answer the question. You can only get a better approach by asking
specifixcs after you know the basics


wrote in message
oups.com...
I want to buy a dresser and have found one I like. This one

http://www.roomandboard.com/rnb/prod...=377444&cat=38

but I don't know anything about construction and wood quality. So I'm
worried I might be paying 1500 for something that is IKEA quality.
What questions do I ask to determine if it's "worth it" for the price?





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On 17 May 2007 20:08:32 -0700, "
wrote:

I want to buy a dresser and have found one I like. This one

http://www.roomandboard.com/rnb/prod...=377444&cat=38

but I don't know anything about construction and wood quality. So I'm
worried I might be paying 1500 for something that is IKEA quality.
What questions do I ask to determine if it's "worth it" for the price?


Q = D + C + M.

Roughly translated this means that Quality equals Design plus
Craftsmanship plus Materials.

In a previous age we lived close enough to the makers to be able to
judge the elements of the equation for ourselves.

We have become less competent through disassociation and the
dismemberment of the organic units of a working society.

We have become consumers, rather than participants in a working
society that is based on an interchange of the goods among various
makers.

The result is that we do not know **** from shinola.

If you happen to be a "knowledge worker" who produces code for a
living, you may be about as incompetent to judge the merits of a piece
of furniture as the furniture maker is to judge the merits of your
code.

How then do we make our selections, from either perspective?

We need an honest broker.

That is why god created Ebay.




(just kidding)



You will need to educate yourself, as you have attempted to do by
asking your question - but you must go to a further level of effort
and visit those repositories of Q=D+C+M, which may be, in your case,
the higher end furniture houses. In another case, it may be a museum.

Furniture is tactile, perspectival, visual, olfactory, auditory,
fiduciary, historical, cultural, emotional, psychological,
sociological, and on the level that you aspire to it is not a
commodity. It must be experienced in the flesh.

Pinch the flesh. Ask the questions of the joinery. View the visible
and try to intuit what is not.

Will your great-great grandchildren love it? Will they ever get the
chance to decide?





Regards,

Tom Watson

tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (real email)

http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1/

wrote in message
oups.com...
I want to buy a dresser and have found one I like. This one

http://www.roomandboard.com/rnb/prod...=377444&cat=38

but I don't know anything about construction and wood quality. So I'm
worried I might be paying 1500 for something that is IKEA quality.
What questions do I ask to determine if it's "worth it" for the price?

Go to IKEA. No, really, go there. Others gave you some ideas on what to
look for. If you go to a cheap furniture store and look at the construction,
it will give you a good idea of what you don't want to see. Feel how the
drawers slide, look at how joints are made, what material is used, etc.

As for the "worth it" question, that is very difficult to answer. I find
that in most goods, as the price doubles, the value goes up about half of
that. OTOH, good furniture can last a couple of generations. Last summer I
refinished two pieces that were used and abused for over 50 years and they
look fantastic and will last at least that much longer.

On May 18, 11:31 pm, "Edwin Pawlowski" wrote:
wrote in message

oups.com...

I want to buy a dresser and have found one I like. This one

http://www.roomandboard.com/rnb/prod...d=991299&coll=...

but I don't know anything about construction and wood quality. So I'm
worried I might be paying 1500 for something that is IKEA quality.
What questions do I ask to determine if it's "worth it" for the price?

Go to IKEA. No, really, go there. Others gave you some ideas on what to
look for. If you go to a cheapfurniturestore and look at the construction,
it will give you a good idea of what you don't want to see. Feel how the
drawers slide, look at how joints are made, what material is used, etc.

As for the "worth it" question, that is very difficult to answer. I find
that in most goods, as the price doubles, the value goes up about half of
that. OTOH, goodfurniturecan last a couple of generations. Last summer I
refinished two pieces that were used and abused for over 50 years and they
look fantastic and will last at least that much longer.

*********************
Ok, forget all the mumbo-jumbo, here are the things you look for...

1. Ask what wood species the piece is made of. For example, is it
'cherry' finish or 'cherry' wood. Sometimes they will say a piece is
cherry or ash or maple, but really they mean that it is finished in
that color, and the actual wood is rubberwood or something.
2. IF the piece is solid wood, make sure they aren't using
'secondary' wood species on the side gables (for example) to lower the
quality.
3. Ask for typical signs of quality such as
- english dovetail drawers on the front and the back of the
drawer (pull the drawer out). Is the joinery rough and slapped
together, or finely crafted just so.
- look at the bottom of the drawer....is it ravaged with glue
blocks or is it solidly made- DO NOT let the salesperson trick you
into believing that glued blocks under a drawer is a 'sign of
quality.' Rather, it just means that they've cheaped out on the
construction
4. Look at the finish. Catalyzed lacquer is the most superior finish
available today. What kind of lacquer is being used to insure that the
finish will not pose a problem in the near future.
5. Quality pieces are well sanded in unusual places that you don't
normally reach for. feel inside drawers, along bottom mouldings, turn
chairs upside down.
6. Are tall pieces finished on top?
7. Are there adjustable levelers on the feet of heavy pieces?
8. How is the bed constructed. Most people tug on the footboard, but
not the headboard. Does the bed wobble or squeak?

If you need more information, check out these guys in Canada who do it
right.... www.westbrosfurniture.com. There is a section call signs of
quality, and the West Bros. difference that you will find interesting.

Good luck.

Steve

"Steve" wrote in message
oups.com...
If you need more information, check out these guys in Canada who do it
right.... www.westbrosfurniture.com. There is a section call signs of
quality, and the West Bros. difference that you will find interesting.

Good luck.

Steve





You might enjoy this Texas guy.

http://www.michaelcolca.com/bedroom/medinadresser.asp

On 19 May 2007 04:54:18 -0700, Steve wrote:

2. IF the piece is solid wood, make sure they aren't using
'secondary' wood species on the side gables (for example) to lower the
quality.

"Secondary" wood is common on hidden and internal parts on the finest
antiques. No responsible craftsperson would dispute this.

In some places, high quality plywood and composites are not only
acceptable, but preferred, such as veneer substrates or drawer
bottoms.

3. Ask for typical signs of quality such as
- english dovetail drawers on the front and the back of the
drawer (pull the drawer out). Is the joinery rough and slapped
together, or finely crafted just so.

As a CNC dovetail machine does, even on cheap bathroom vanity drawers?
G

Sliding dovetails are very common at the back of drawers, and some
very high-end stuff can have joinery designed to show no dovetail at
all.

4. Look at the finish. Catalyzed lacquer is the most superior finish
available today. What kind of lacquer is being used to insure that the
finish will not pose a problem in the near future.

You can tell catalyzed lacquer from other finishes by looking at it?
G

5. Quality pieces are well sanded in unusual places that you don't
normally reach for. feel inside drawers, along bottom mouldings, turn
chairs upside down.

Bull.

6. Are tall pieces finished on top?

Expecting an identical finish to the visible parts, in non-visible
places is pretty ridiculous.

"Steve" wrote in message

Ok, forget all the mumbo-jumbo, here are the things you look for...

1. Ask what wood species the piece is made of. For example, is it
'cherry' finish or 'cherry' wood. Sometimes they will say a piece is
cherry or ash or maple, but really they mean that it is finished in
that color, and the actual wood is rubberwood or something.

Ahh, yes ... the much maligned hevea brasiliensis, which simply resists
being used in quality construction regardless of the craftsman's attempts.

2. IF the piece is solid wood, make sure they aren't using
'secondary' wood species on the side gables (for example) to lower the
quality.

Where's the "side gable" in piece of furniture?

3. Ask for typical signs of quality such as
- english dovetail drawers on the front and the back of the
drawer (pull the drawer out). Is the joinery rough and slapped
together, or finely crafted just so.

Won't half-blind "american dovetails" do on a drawer?

- look at the bottom of the drawer....is it ravaged with glue
blocks or is it solidly made- DO NOT let the salesperson trick you
into believing that glued blocks under a drawer is a 'sign of
quality.' Rather, it just means that they've cheaped out on the
construction

Yeah, watch out for those ravaging glue blocks ... they have to be
registered in most places.

4. Look at the finish. Catalyzed lacquer is the most superior finish
available today.

Hmmm ... pre or post? Anyone want to buy some shellac?

What kind of lacquer is being used to insure that the
finish will not pose a problem in the near future.

Just ask the salesman, he'll tell you ... for sure!

5. Quality pieces are well sanded in unusual places that you don't
normally reach for. feel inside drawers,

That depends entirely upon what the saleslady looks like.

along bottom mouldings, turn chairs upside down.

.... and be sure to stay away from 150 year old antiques still going strong.

6. Are tall pieces finished on top?

Too short? Don't ask, don't look.

7. Are there adjustable levelers on the feet of heavy pieces?

Yep, real sign of quality ... never see these on cheap furniture!

8. How is the bed constructed. Most people tug on the footboard, but
not the headboard. Does the bed wobble or squeak?

Tug? There is only one, manly, way to find out whether a bed wobbles or
squeaks. Maybe that saleslady can help?

If you need more information, check out these guys in Canada who do it
right.... www.westbrosfurniture.com. There is a section call signs of
quality, and the West Bros. difference that you will find interesting.

LOL ... sure thing, brought to you by the folks who claim that:

"The term "solid wood" may be confusing to some consumers, since both solid
and veneered woods are of solid wood construction. In fact, veneers are made
from many pieces of plywood material which remain after a tree is milled."

Good luck.

Steve

Yes sir ... with that kind of "mumbo jumbo", he'll certainly need all he can
get.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 2/20/07
KarlC@ (the obvious)

On May 19, 11:48 am, "Swingman" wrote:


Yeah, watch out for those ravaging glue blocks ... they have to be
registered in most places.

Wowsers... you can do serious time for concealed glue-blocks.

That depends entirely upon what the saleslady looks like.

. Maybe that saleslady can help?

They only screw you at the cash register.

If you need more information, check out these guys in Canada who do it

Pleeeeese leave me out of this???

"The term "solid wood" may be confusing to some consumers, since both solid
and veneered woods are of solid wood construction. In fact, veneers are made
from many pieces of plywood material which remain after a tree is milled."

HEY! All the wood in particle board is solid wood!!!

Thanks for the chuckles, Swing...

r

On May 19, 11:44 am, B A R R Y wrote:
On 19 May 2007 04:54:18 -0700, Steve wrote:

2. IF the piece is solid wood, make sure they aren't using
'secondary' wood species on the side gables (for example) to lower the
quality.

"Secondary" wood is common on hidden and internal parts on the finest
antiques. No responsible craftsperson would dispute this.

In some places, high quality plywood and composites are not only
acceptable, but preferred, such as veneer substrates or drawer
bottoms.

3. Ask for typical signs of quality such as
- english dovetail drawers on the front and the back of the
drawer (pull the drawer out). Is the joinery rough and slapped
together, or finely crafted just so.

As a CNC dovetail machine does, even on cheap bathroom vanity drawers?
G

Sliding dovetails are very common at the back of drawers, and some
very high-end stuff can have joinery designed to show no dovetail at
all.

4. Look at the finish. Catalyzed lacquer is the most superior finish
available today. What kind of lacquer is being used to insure that the
finish will not pose a problem in the near future.

You can tell catalyzed lacquer from other finishes by looking at it?
G

5. Quality pieces are well sanded in unusual places that you don't
normally reach for. feel inside drawers, along bottom mouldings, turn
chairs upside down.

Bull.

6. Are tall pieces finished on top?

Expecting an identical finish to the visible parts, in non-visible
places is pretty ridiculous.

What BARRY said.

r

On 19 May 2007 04:54:18 -0700, Steve wrote:


2. IF the piece is solid wood, make sure they aren't using
'secondary' wood species on the side gables (for example) to lower the
quality.

Also remember that "solid" wood can actually mean plywood. In the
link the OP gives they say solid wood but those panels are almost
certainly plywood with wood edging at the corners.


-Leuf

On May 19, 11:48 am, "Swingman" wrote:
"Steve" wrote in message
Ok, forget all the mumbo-jumbo, here are the things you look for...

1. Ask what wood species the piece is made of. For example, is it
'cherry' finish or 'cherry' wood. Sometimes they will say a piece is
cherry or ash or maple, but really they mean that it is finished in
that color, and the actual wood is rubberwood or something.

Ahh, yes ... the much maligned hevea brasiliensis, which simply resists
being used in quality construction regardless of the craftsman's attempts.

2. IF the piece is solid wood, make sure they aren't using
'secondary' wood species on the side gables (for example) to lower the
quality.

Where's the "side gable" in piece offurniture?

3. Ask for typical signs of quality such as
- english dovetail drawers on the front and the back of the
drawer (pull the drawer out). Is the joinery rough and slapped
together, or finely crafted just so.

Won't half-blind "american dovetails" do on a drawer?

- look at the bottom of the drawer....is it ravaged with glue
blocks or is it solidly made- DO NOT let the salesperson trick you
into believing that glued blocks under a drawer is a 'sign of
quality.' Rather, it just means that they've cheaped out on the
construction

Yeah, watch out for those ravaging glue blocks ... they have to be
registered in most places.

4. Look at the finish. Catalyzed lacquer is the most superior finish
available today.

Hmmm ... pre or post? Anyone want to buy some shellac?

What kind of lacquer is being used to insure that the
finish will not pose a problem in the near future.

Just ask the salesman, he'll tell you ... for sure!

5. Quality pieces are well sanded in unusual places that you don't
normally reach for. feel inside drawers,

That depends entirely upon what the saleslady looks like.

along bottom mouldings, turn chairs upside down.

... and be sure to stay away from 150 year old antiques still going strong.

6. Are tall pieces finished on top?

Too short? Don't ask, don't look.

7. Are there adjustable levelers on the feet of heavy pieces?

Yep, real sign of quality ... never see these on cheapfurniture!

8. How is the bed constructed. Most people tug on the footboard, but
not the headboard. Does the bed wobble or squeak?

Tug? There is only one, manly, way to find out whether a bed wobbles or
squeaks. Maybe that saleslady can help?

If you need more information, check out these guys in Canada who do it
right....www.westbrosfurniture.com. There is a section call signs of
quality, and the West Bros. difference that you will find interesting.

LOL ... sure thing, brought to you by the folks who claim that:

"The term "solid wood" may be confusing to some consumers, since both solid
and veneered woods are of solid wood construction. In fact, veneers are made
from many pieces of plywood material which remain after a tree is milled."

Good luck.



Steve

Yes sir ... with that kind of "mumbo jumbo", he'll certainly need all he can
get.

--www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 2/20/07
KarlC@ (the obvious)

You know, there are ignorant people like you out there that don't
really have anything else to do but cut others down. Then there are
people that do actually want to help. And, ah, by the way, the
information was provided by a happy customer to this manufacturer, not
the manufacturer selling his goods. The question was originally asked
because they were looking for some answers- if you don't agree than
just give your opinion and not just run at the mouth like an idiot
making yourself look retarded. Jerk,

On May 19, 10:41 am, "Leon" wrote:
"Steve" wrote in message

oups.com...

If you need more information, check out these guys in Canada who do it
right....www.westbrosfurniture.com. There is a section call signs of
quality, and the West Bros. difference that you will find interesting.

Good luck.

Steve

You might enjoy this Texas guy.

http://www.michaelcolca.com/bedroom/medinadresser.asp

Thanks Leon,
This guy is great.

steve

On May 19, 11:44 am, B A R R Y wrote:
On 19 May 2007 04:54:18 -0700, Steve wrote:

2. IF the piece is solid wood, make sure they aren't using
'secondary' wood species on the side gables (for example) to lower the
quality.

"Secondary" wood is common on hidden and internal parts on the finest
antiques. No responsible craftsperson would dispute this.

In some places, high quality plywood and composites are not only
acceptable, but preferred, such as veneer substrates or drawer
bottoms.


this is true, however, it is when a salesperson in a store says one thing, but they actually mean another. So many times people are mislead by thinking they are gettting a solid cherry dresser for example, and really they're getting solid cherry fronts and maple gables.

3. Ask for typical signs of quality such as
- english dovetail drawers on the front and the back of the
drawer (pull the drawer out). Is the joinery rough and slapped
together, or finely crafted just so.

As a CNC dovetail machine does, even on cheap bathroom vanity drawers?
G


Sliding dovetails are very common at the back of drawers, and some
very high-end stuff can have joinery designed to show no dovetail at
all.


In the 'new' products seen out there, so many times they will dovetail the front as a 'vanity' feature, where front and back dovetails are used because it makes a stronger, longer-lasting drawer. There is no doubt that there are other types of joinery, however, I think that overall it is believed that the english dovetail technique is the most superior out there. Do you agree? S

4. Look at the finish. Catalyzed lacquer is the most superior finish
available today. What kind of lacquer is being used to insure that the
finish will not pose a problem in the near future.

You can tell catalyzed lacquer from other finishes by looking at it?
G

Unfortunately, you cannot. But it would be a good question to ask an antique restorer or the salesperson on a salesfloor.

5. Quality pieces are well sanded in unusual places that you don't
normally reach for. feel inside drawers, along bottom mouldings, turn
chairs upside down.

Bull.

Remember that we are talking about signs of quality. When care is taken on the smallest things...like simple sanding, it's a good tipoff that the craftsman has spent the proper amount of time and care on the big things. There's no arguing that. S

6. Are tall pieces finished on top?

Expecting an identical finish to the visible parts, in non-visible
places is pretty ridiculous.

I don't know about you, but theres nothing worse than coming down from a loft and looking down onto the top of a tall entertainment console only to see bare wood, or finish overspray. Again, just because a piece of furniture doesn't have this doesn't mean it's not good, but these are signs of quality which differentiate one piece from another. S

"Steve" yelled and screamed

You know, there are ignorant people like you out there that don't
really have anything else to do but cut others down. Then there are
people that do actually want to help. And, ah, by the way, the
information was provided by a happy customer to this manufacturer, not
the manufacturer selling his goods. The question was originally asked
because they were looking for some answers- if you don't agree than
just give your opinion and not just run at the mouth like an idiot
making yourself look retarded. Jerk,


I don't know who you are, but I can tell you a bit about the swingman.

1. He IS very knowledgable about many topics woodworking related.

2. He has a world class website that details many of his projects.

3. He plays swing bass and cooks like an old cajun.

4. He consistently helps people on this forum. In the last few days he
scanned an article and sent it privately to someone so they could build a
shop jig.

5. His contributions are appreciated by many here.

6. He is also known for a dry sense of humor.

Who did you say you were??

Steve wrote:

| You know, there are ignorant people like you out there that don't

snip

| like an idiot making yourself look retarded. Jerk,

I think you've filed just a tad too much off the sear. Swingman is
considerably less ignorant than you would seem to believe, and has
earned the respect of many of the regulars for his expertise and his
generosity in sharing it.

Suggest you take two steps backward and recalibrate your humor
detector.

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/

wrote:
| I want to buy a dresser and have found one I like. This one
|
|
http://www.roomandboard.com/rnb/prod...=991299&coll=3
77444&cat=38
|
| but I don't know anything about construction and wood quality. So
| I'm worried I might be paying 1500 for something that is IKEA
| quality. What questions do I ask to determine if it's "worth it"
| for the price?

I'd guess the question should probably be: "Do I like it $1500 worth?"

If the answer is "yes", and if you can afford to spend that amount on
a dresser, then go for it. If the answer is "no", or if you can't
afford to spend that much on it, then keep looking.

It's not about getting your money's worth in wood or joinery or
finishing. It /is/ about whether it will do the jobs you intend for it
to do. Since dressers are available for considerably less, I'll assume
that you want this particular one to do more than "hold stuff" - to
please a loved one, impress visitors, satisfy your own sense of
aesthetics...

The bottom line is that it's "worth it" if you decide so - no matter
what I or anyone else might say.

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/

On May 19, 8:39 pm, Steve wrote:


You know, there are ignorant people like you out there that don't
really have anything else to do but cut others down. Then there are
people that do actually want to help. And, ah, by the way, the
information was provided by a happy customer to this manufacturer, not
the manufacturer selling his goods. The question was originally asked
because they were looking for some answers- if you don't agree than
just give your opinion and not just run at the mouth like an idiot
making yourself look retarded. Jerk,

Not that The Swingman needs anybody to fend for him, as he can turn on
the acerbic cut-down machine allll by himself. He may, however, decide
not to waste his energy responding to a nobody like yourself. If I was
in his shoes, I'd probably ignore you too. But, what-the-hell, I will
try to tell you to go **** yourself in as nice as way as possible.

I asked for some input, recently, for a project I am undertaking. Many
here responded with excellent advice, great ideas.. but only Swingman
went through the trouble of going back, through over a decade worth of
material, to find a picture and description of a detail which had
eluded me up to that point.

The guy is a solid asset to this newsgroup and helps lots of people. I
think he's big enough to even help you...after an apology of course. I
am wondering if Steve is man enough to apologize. I'm taking bets
we'll never hear from that ignorant little prick again.

In article ,
says...

Go to IKEA. No, really, go there. Others gave you some ideas on what to
look for. If you go to a cheap furniture store and look at the construction,
it will give you a good idea of what you don't want to see. Feel how the
drawers slide, look at how joints are made, what material is used, etc.


Is Ikea really such crap these days? Seriously, I have no idea, they don't have
a shop in New Zealand. Back in my student days 30 years ago, we'd hire a VW bus
and drive 100 km to the nearest Ikea store because the stuff they were selling
was so *good* (all solid, hard, well seasoned pine in those days, and
affordable even for students).

But my wife (a fairly recent import from Germany) brought a couple of Ikea
chests of drawers with her and they were, indeed, utter junk.

Guess I may have heard that they moved the production from Scandinavia to Asia.
Not sure. Hmmm.

-Peter

--
=========================================
firstname dot lastname at gmail fullstop com

"Steve" wrote in message

You know, there are ignorant people like you out there that don't
really have anything else to do but cut others down. Then there are
people that do actually want to help. And, ah, by the way, the
information was provided by a happy customer to this manufacturer, not
the manufacturer selling his goods. The question was originally asked
because they were looking for some answers- if you don't agree than
just give your opinion and not just run at the mouth like an idiot
making yourself look retarded. Jerk,

Well, we all pretty much agree with that, but it does help that when you
give "advice" you're not just parroting a website trying to sell furniture
to the Ikea generation, goodness knows there is enough wikiimpediment around
here as it is.

BTW, where are the "side gables" on a piece of furniture, and what type of
furniture has them?

Thanks for any enlightenment, when you get a chance.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 2/20/07
KarlC@ (the obvious)

"Peter Huebner" wrote in message

Is Ikea really such crap these days? Seriously, I have no idea, they don't
have
a shop in New Zealand. Back in my student days 30 years ago, we'd hire a
VW bus
and drive 100 km to the nearest Ikea store because the stuff they were
selling
was so *good* (all solid, hard, well seasoned pine in those days, and
affordable even for students).

But my wife (a fairly recent import from Germany) brought a couple of Ikea
chests of drawers with her and they were, indeed, utter junk.

Guess I may have heard that they moved the production from Scandinavia to
Asia.
Not sure. Hmmm.


I don't know about China, but it's my impression that they have succumbed to
corporate expansion, with a resultant loss in quality.

SWMBO, who owns and operates a music school primarily for children, has
bought a lot of Ikea down through the years, and guess who gets to put it
together.

Assembly has recently become a real PITA on many items and that fact is
probably a fair indication that things aren't what they used to be. On their
behalf, occasionally I'm surprised ... mostly on the older designed stuff
they've been selling for years.

As you well know, furniture "quality" is relative if you've never
experienced a difference. Until you've experienced a well made custom
kitchen cabinet, with the boxes put together the right way and made with the
best materials available, the KitchenMaid stuff at the BORG's looks pretty
damn good.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 2/20/07
KarlC@ (the obvious)

On May 20, 12:29 pm, "Swingman" wrote:


BTW, where are the "side gables" on a piece of furniture, and what type of
furniture has them?


Up here in Canuckistan, gables are usually green...and made by Anne.
..
..
..
..
..
..
..
..
..
..
..
..
..
(too obscure for my friends down south?)

Robatoy wrote:
| On May 20, 12:29 pm, "Swingman" wrote:
|
||
|| BTW, where are the "side gables" on a piece of furniture, and what
|| type of furniture has them?
|
| Up here in Canuckistan, gables are usually green...and made by Anne.

| (too obscure for my friends down south?)

Nope - the story has even become a public broadcasting favorite in the
USA. It's too universal to be obscure outside Canuckistan.

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/

"Robatoy" wrote in message
oups.com...
On May 20, 12:29 pm, "Swingman" wrote:


BTW, where are the "side gables" on a piece of furniture, and what type
of
furniture has them?


Up here in Canuckistan, gables are usually green...and made by Anne.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
(too obscure for my friends down south?)


Yes.

CW wrote:
| "Robatoy" wrote in message
| oups.com...
|| On May 20, 12:29 pm, "Swingman" wrote:
||
|||
||| BTW, where are the "side gables" on a piece of furniture, and
||| what type of furniture has them?
||
|| Up here in Canuckistan, gables are usually green...and made by
|| Anne. .
|| .
|| (too obscure for my friends down south?)
|
| Yes.

Oops! I spoke too soon. Anne is Anne Shirly, the central character in
"Anne of Green Gables" (set in Nova Scotia in the early 1900's).

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/

On May 20, 7:46 pm, "Morris Dovey" wrote:
CW wrote:
| "Robatoy" wrote in message

roups.com...
|| On May 20, 12:29 pm, "Swingman" wrote:
||
|||
||| BTW, where are the "side gables" on a piece of furniture, and
||| what type of furniture has them?
||
|| Up here in Canuckistan, gables are usually green...and made by
|| Anne. .
|| .
|| (too obscure for my friends down south?)
|
| Yes.

Oops! I spoke too soon. Anne is Anne Shirly, the central character in
"Anne of Green Gables" (set in Nova Scotia in the early 1900's).

I took this picture of Anne's house a couple of years ago. My daughter
wanted to visit it.
Nothing like some wholesome fiction in an actual, historic setting.

I didn't think the likes of CW would 'get it'.

In article . com,
Robatoy wrote:

On May 20, 7:46 pm, "Morris Dovey" wrote:
CW wrote:
| "Robatoy" wrote in message

roups.com...
|| On May 20, 12:29 pm, "Swingman" wrote:
||
|||
||| BTW, where are the "side gables" on a piece of furniture, and
||| what type of furniture has them?
||
|| Up here in Canuckistan, gables are usually green...and made by
|| Anne. .
|| .
|| (too obscure for my friends down south?)
|
| Yes.

Oops! I spoke too soon. Anne is Anne Shirly, the central character in
"Anne of Green Gables" (set in Nova Scotia in the early 1900's).

I took this picture of Anne's house a couple of years ago. My daughter
wanted to visit it.
Nothing like some wholesome fiction in an actual, historic setting.

I didn't think the likes of CW would 'get it'.

It would help if I posted the link:

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...reenGables.jpg

Leon wrote:

"Steve" wrote in message
oups.com...
If you need more information, check out these guys in Canada who do it
right.... www.westbrosfurniture.com. There is a section call signs of
quality, and the West Bros. difference that you will find interesting.

Good luck.

Steve





You might enjoy this Texas guy.

http://www.michaelcolca.com/bedroom/medinadresser.asp

Hmmm, wonder what the spot at the top of that syle covers and looks very
much like the piece has no back.

Peter
--
Add my middle initial to email me. It has become attached to a country
www.the-brights.net

Robatoy wrote:

| I took this picture of Anne's house a couple of years ago. My
| daughter wanted to visit it.
| Nothing like some wholesome fiction in an actual, historic setting.

Yuppers. Looks almost too pretty to be real.

| I didn't think the likes of CW would 'get it'.

I probably wouldn't have gotten it either if my (then) little sister
hadn't so enjoyed being read to. (Wish I'd known about "The Chronicles
of Narnia" back then - I think she'd have really enjoyed it.)

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/

"Morris Dovey" wrote in message
...

(Wish I'd known about "The Chronicles
of Narnia" back then - I think she'd have really enjoyed it.)

I know what you mean. I didn't hear about them until I was in college. I
read all 7 books in two days.

I envy people who haven't read them before. They have the "Joy of the First
Reading" awaiting them.

I feel the same way about the "A Wrinkle In Time" series. I fell
head-over-heels in love with a fictional character. ;-)

-- Mark

On May 21, 6:55 pm, "Mark Jerde" wrote:


I feel the same way about the "A Wrinkle In Time" series. I fell
head-over-heels in love with a fictional character. ;-)

Don't tell anybody, but I have a thing for Princess Fiona (Shrek)