"Upscale" wrote in
:


The only saw apparatus that I've seen on the LV site that might
produce cuts suitable for flooring is the mitre trimmer. It doesn't
exactly say, but viewing it online suggests to me that it's capable of
90° cuts.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...22&cat=1,42884


Check out the miter boxes:
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...27&cat=1,42884 (standard)
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...26&cat=1,42884
(professional)

BOTH of these should be able to produce square, smooth ends similar to a
quality (power) chop saw. They have up to 32 tpi blades available. The
work can be clamped on the "bed" of the saw. The saw is "captive" in the
guides. Assuming that the saw is accurate and not defective (same
assumption for any equipment), there is no reason these would not make
quick, quits, accurate cuts. They *are* manual saws, and if you do much
cutting, you will get tired and sweaty. You'll make more noise huffing and
puffing than the saw will make.

"Upscale" wrote in message
...
"Prometheus" wrote in message

Yeah, give a nice handsaw a try- you can't really get a good one at
the local borg these days, but you can order them from any of the
mail-order companies that cater to woodworkers. Using hand tools only
seems hard until you get a good one, and then it's a real eye-opener.

Got a brand recommendation? Whatever I consider buying will have to be
available somewhere in the Canadian market.


Lie-Nielson has a variety of back saws available now and will have panel
saws in the not too distant future... I've got a couple L-N back saws (rip
and cross-cut) and some Diston and Sandvik panel saws (again rip and various
cross-cut). The Diston and Sandvik saws didn't come into their own until
they had been sharpened. From the factory they cut OK but not nearly as good
as after a professional sharpening.

John

"Upscale" wrote in message
...
"Dave in Fairfax" wrote in message
inexperienced. I also wasn't saying that you'd get a sawcut that was
smooth as a baby's butt. You asked about the availablity of high
quality saws in Canada and I was suggesting LV.

It's ok, I'm not upset. I'm just keeping in mind the OP's request for a
quiet way to produce cuts (night time operation) that are suitable for
laying laminate flooring. Aside from the shearing method, or the edge
planing method (which I feel is much too slow for production speed
professional work) I can't envision anything else that would meet his
noise
concerns. Even if a Dozuki saw and some specialized usage can produce the
type of 90° cuts obtained by a properly set up chop saw, I refuse to
believe
that it can be done nearly fast enough to be worthwhile using for
production
work.

I joined this thread late... If the OP marked his cuts fairly deep with a
knife and then used a good sharp handsaw I don't see any reason for him to
not get acceptable cuts for flooring. He'd probably do better than he would
with a mediocre CMS and mediocre blade... If he's doing this at night and
noise is a concern it doesn't sound like he's looking for production speed.

John

"Dan Major" wrote in message
.6...
"Upscale" wrote in
:


The only saw apparatus that I've seen on the LV site that might
produce cuts suitable for flooring is the mitre trimmer. It doesn't
exactly say, but viewing it online suggests to me that it's capable of
90° cuts.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...22&cat=1,42884


Check out the miter boxes:
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...27&cat=1,42884 (standard)
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...26&cat=1,42884
(professional)

BOTH of these should be able to produce square, smooth ends similar to a
quality (power) chop saw. They have up to 32 tpi blades available. The
work can be clamped on the "bed" of the saw. The saw is "captive" in the
guides. Assuming that the saw is accurate and not defective (same
assumption for any equipment), there is no reason these would not make
quick, quits, accurate cuts. They *are* manual saws, and if you do much
cutting, you will get tired and sweaty. You'll make more noise huffing
and
puffing than the saw will make.


Way back when I was in eighth grade shop, we cut everyting on a miter box
like the ones shown above. And we did nice precise cuts too. Everything was
square. Our shop teacher was very particular about that. If the project
wasn't square or had bad joints, out grades would suffer.

As for ripping, we had handsaws for that. We would cut close to a line.
thenplane the board to the line. We did pretty good as a group of
beginners.

On Fri, 12 Aug 2005 07:38:36 -0400, "Upscale"
wrote:

"Prometheus" wrote in message

Yeah, give a nice handsaw a try- you can't really get a good one at
the local borg these days, but you can order them from any of the
mail-order companies that cater to woodworkers. Using hand tools only
seems hard until you get a good one, and then it's a real eye-opener.

Got a brand recommendation? Whatever I consider buying will have to be
available somewhere in the Canadian market.

Take a look at Lee Valley. (http://www.leevalley.com/) and the Japan
Woodworker (http://www.japanwoodworker.com/page.asp?content_id=2896)
I hesitate to make a recommendation, as everyone has a slightly
different preference, but each of these companies has good solid
products that work well. For what you're up to, I'd use something
like this
(http://www.japanwoodworker.com/produ...ept _id=13085)
Because I like cutting on the pull stroke, and the spine on the back
of the saw will keep it ridgid when making straight cuts in a miter
box. If you prefer the western-style saws, it's just a matter of
finding one that works for you. I favor a gent's saw with a crosscut
set over a dovetail saw (for instance) because of the handle style,
but as stated above, that's going to depend on you.

A cheap pull saw from a local borg will work as well, but will not
last nearly as long, and I've never seen one with a still brace on the
back of the blade.

On Fri, 12 Aug 2005 10:04:30 -0400, "Upscale"
wrote:

"Dave in Fairfax" wrote in message
inexperienced. I also wasn't saying that you'd get a sawcut that was
smooth as a baby's butt. You asked about the availablity of high
quality saws in Canada and I was suggesting LV.

It's ok, I'm not upset. I'm just keeping in mind the OP's request for a
quiet way to produce cuts (night time operation) that are suitable for
laying laminate flooring. Aside from the shearing method, or the edge
planing method (which I feel is much too slow for production speed
professional work) I can't envision anything else that would meet his noise
concerns. Even if a Dozuki saw and some specialized usage can produce the
type of 90° cuts obtained by a properly set up chop saw, I refuse to believe
that it can be done nearly fast enough to be worthwhile using for production
work.

Depends on what kind of production you're doing. As stated in my
original post in this thread, I've done a whole pile of trim work with
a dozuki and a coping saw, and it was all up to snuff. Which is to
say, much nicer than 98% of the crap you see around you every day.
There really, really is an arguement for hand tools being at least as,
if not more, accurate than power tools in the hands of the right
person. If you're lopping off crappy laminate to beat the next guy's
lowest bid, then it's probably not worthwhile. If you're trying to
make/maintain a reputation for quality over speed, then a handsaw will
work beautifully. Especially when the job requires a special
requirement, like the lowest amount of noise or dust possible,
customers will often be willing to pay for real craftsmanship when it
is availible. Also, a good dozuki will cut most trim (though I can't
claim this for flooring, I imagine it it very similar) in 3-4 strokes-
similar in time to lining up the cut on the power miter saw.

Further evidence of the race to the bottom, I guess. Get yourself a
nice handsaw, Upscale, and give it a whirl- you may be surprised to
find that they actually do work. And, though it may seem unlikely,
they're sometimes faster than the power versions, as they don't
require special setups or jigs for some cuts.

Something that impresses me during this discussion is that everyone is
concentrating on hand saws and planes when laminate flooring is to be cut.
This stuff kills carbide rapidly, I don't see any carbon steel blade
standing up to it for any length of time.

wrote in message
ups.com...

Upscale wrote:
"Dave in Fairfax" wrote in message
inexperienced. I also wasn't saying that you'd get a sawcut that was
smooth as a baby's butt. You asked about the availablity of high
quality saws in Canada and I was suggesting LV.


I don't know if the pax saws are high quality or not. The Independence
saws, now made by Lie Nielsen and the Adria saws both have a
great reputation. Possibly these are as good as the best antiques
you could find.


It's ok, I'm not upset. I'm just keeping in mind the OP's request for a
quiet way to produce cuts (night time operation) that are suitable for
laying laminate flooring. Aside from the shearing method, or the edge
planing method (which I feel is much too slow for production speed
professional work) ...

I don't see why shearing or edge planing would be too slow. It
is one additonal step after cutting, but a quick one. Of course
there is time needed to hone the blade once every night or so
that's a quick job with the plane, don't know about the shear.

--

FF

CW wrote:
Something that impresses me during this discussion is that everyone is
concentrating on hand saws and planes when laminate flooring is to be cut.
This stuff kills carbide rapidly, I don't see any carbon steel blade
standing up to it for any length of time.

wrote in message
ups.com...

Upscale wrote:
"Dave in Fairfax" wrote in message
inexperienced. I also wasn't saying that you'd get a sawcut that was
smooth as a baby's butt. You asked about the availablity of high
quality saws in Canada and I was suggesting LV.


I don't know if the pax saws are high quality or not. The Independence
saws, now made by Lie Nielsen and the Adria saws both have a
great reputation. Possibly these are as good as the best antiques
you could find.
...
Of course
there is time needed to hone the blade once every night or so
that's a quick job with the plane, don't know about the shear.


Of course we are, OP wanted a quiet saw. There are no quiet power
saws.

Honing the plane blade is a fast step.

Resharpening a Western style crosscut backsaw takes about
2-3 minutes, the teeth do not need to be jointed or set each
time it is sharpened.

Replacement blades for the less expensive Japanese style saws
are around $10, last I looked. A new blade should last
for a few nights' work.

--

FF

Sharpening the saw every other cut would be a might bit slow.

"John Grossbohlin" wrote in message
news:F05Le.4691 I joined this thread late... If the OP marked his cuts
fairly deep with a
knife and then used a good sharp handsaw I don't see any reason for him to
not get acceptable cuts for flooring. He'd probably do better than he
would
with a mediocre CMS and mediocre blade... If he's doing this at night and
noise is a concern it doesn't sound like he's looking for production
speed.

John

writes:

CW wrote:
Something that impresses me during this discussion is that everyone is
concentrating on hand saws and planes when laminate flooring is to be cut.

Of course we are, OP wanted a quiet saw. There are no quiet power
saws.

I made a "quiet power saw" by cutting 1/2" off the end of a Makita #79
reciprocating saw blade, and mounting it in a Ryobi scroll saw (which
has clamp-type blade mounts).

Don't laugh, it works!

The saw itself makes almost no noise at all. The noise comes from
vibration of the workpiece (as you might expect with any reciprocating
saw).

The scroll saw is designed for freehand cutting, so it doesn't have a
slot for a miter gauge. If you could rig up some kind of crosscut sled
with a quick-release clamp, it might work for the OP's project. I just
cut to a line by eye, which was close enough for what I was doing.

As someone else mentioned earlier, I think bandsaws also qualify as
"quiet power saws". But they're heavy and the OP needed something
portable (which is why I didn't use a bandsaw for my project).

wrote in message
Of course we are, OP wanted a quiet saw. There are no quiet power
saws.

Honing the plane blade is a fast step.

Resharpening a Western style crosscut backsaw takes about
2-3 minutes, the teeth do not need to be jointed or set each
time it is sharpened.

Replacement blades for the less expensive Japanese style saws
are around $10, last I looked. A new blade should last
for a few nights' work.

Kidding right? You've never cut laminate flooring have you? Using a steel
blade, I used two just to do a few stair treads.

"CW" wrote in message
news
Sharpening the saw every other cut would be a might bit slow.


Unless it is wide board, then it would be after every cut.

(in MOtKe.173577$9A2.125878@edtnps89) said:

| So, take that new miter saw with the laser sight. All they need to
| do is get rid of the motor and the blade and boost the laser power.
| How hard can that be? I just did all the design work right there.
|
| * Never needs sharpening!
| * Totally quiet... no moving parts!
| * No sawdust... just a little puff of smoke.

Hmm - more benefits:

* Self cauterizing... losing a limb doesn't mean you'll bleed to
death.
* Large capacity/range - 3500W model cuts "to infinity and beyond."
* Doubles as lawn mower/tree trimmer/pet groomer/grill starter.

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/solar.html

Ever cut any laminate flooring? The substance used in the topcoat, this is
the stuff that gives it its wear resistance, is aluminum oxide. Talk to
Norton about aluminum oxide. That's what they use to make oilstones from. I
wouldn't touch a piece of laminate flooring with any plane or saw I cared
about.

wrote in message
oups.com...

Honing the plane blade is a fast step.

Resharpening a Western style crosscut backsaw takes about
2-3 minutes, the teeth do not need to be jointed or set each
time it is sharpened.

Replacement blades for the less expensive Japanese style saws
are around $10, last I looked. A new blade should last
for a few nights' work.

--

FF

wrote:
CW wrote:

Something that impresses me during this discussion is that everyone is
concentrating on hand saws and planes when laminate flooring is to be cut.
This stuff kills carbide rapidly, I don't see any carbon steel blade
standing up to it for any length of time.

wrote in message
roups.com...

Upscale wrote:

"Dave in Fairfax" wrote in message

inexperienced. I also wasn't saying that you'd get a sawcut that was
smooth as a baby's butt. You asked about the availablity of high
quality saws in Canada and I was suggesting LV.

I don't know if the pax saws are high quality or not. The Independence
saws, now made by Lie Nielsen and the Adria saws both have a
great reputation. Possibly these are as good as the best antiques
you could find.
...
Of course
there is time needed to hone the blade once every night or so
that's a quick job with the plane, don't know about the shear.



Of course we are, OP wanted a quiet saw. There are no quiet power
saws.

Honing the plane blade is a fast step.

Resharpening a Western style crosscut backsaw takes about
2-3 minutes, the teeth do not need to be jointed or set each
time it is sharpened.

Replacement blades for the less expensive Japanese style saws
are around $10, last I looked. A new blade should last
for a few nights' work.

I'd bet you've never cut laminate flooring! That stuff is so tough it's
hard to cut with a brand new carbide tipped saw blade. Your post is
merely uninformed conjectures.

Dave

"CW" wrote in message
news
Sharpening the saw every other cut would be a might bit slow.

"John Grossbohlin" wrote in message
news:F05Le.4691 I joined this thread late... If the OP marked his cuts
fairly deep with a
knife and then used a good sharp handsaw I don't see any reason for him
to
not get acceptable cuts for flooring. He'd probably do better than he
would
with a mediocre CMS and mediocre blade... If he's doing this at night and
noise is a concern it doesn't sound like he's looking for production
speed.

John

If you feel the finish is a concern than marking with the knife and then
cutting a V-groove along the line (on the waste side) with the knife would
eliminate the finish. The saw will track in the groove if some kind of saw
guide is used (e.g., bench hook, 90 degree setting in a miter box, etc)...

John

CW wrote:
Ever cut any laminate flooring? The substance used in the topcoat, this is
the stuff that gives it its wear resistance, is aluminum oxide. Talk to
Norton about aluminum oxide. That's what they use to make oilstones from. I
wouldn't touch a piece of laminate flooring with any plane or saw I cared
about.

wrote in message
oups.com...

Honing the plane blade is a fast step.

Resharpening a Western style crosscut backsaw takes about
2-3 minutes, the teeth do not need to be jointed or set each
time it is sharpened.

Replacement blades for the less expensive Japanese style saws
are around $10, last I looked. A new blade should last
for a few nights' work.


No, I haven't cut laminate flooring.

Sounds like he's SOL as far as finding a quiet saw that'll
do the job.

BTW, my oilstones are made from silicon carbide--harder than
alundum. I've used both alundum and silicon carbide to grind
glass and the silicon carbide in the same grit size is MUCH
faster.

Someday I'll try honing on ground glass.

--

FF

Silicon carbide stones do a great job on axes and shovels. Don't really do
much woodworking, do you?

wrote in message
oups.com...

CW wrote:
BTW, my oilstones are made from silicon carbide--harder than
alundum.

On Sun, 14 Aug 2005 09:13:39 -0700, David wrote:

I'd bet you've never cut laminate flooring! That stuff is so tough it's
hard to cut with a brand new carbide tipped saw blade. Your post is
merely uninformed conjectures.

Well, David, you have to cut it with something. If you can't do it
with a power saw because it's too noisy, then you have to do it with a
handsaw. Might not be the way you'd like to see it done, and it may
not be easy, but a saw is a saw. Sure, it'll wear out the blade, but
that's true of the power saw blades as well. Either way, the flooring
has to be cut, right? FWIW, I have cut laminate flooring with a
dozuki, and continued to use it long after that project, until I cut a
nail in half with it by mistake and broke a bunch of teeth. Yes, I
did cut the nail in half- it's not hyperbole. Not the suggested use
for that tool, but even the cheap ones are tougher than you may think.

Prometheus wrote:

On Sun, 14 Aug 2005 09:13:39 -0700, David wrote:


I'd bet you've never cut laminate flooring! That stuff is so tough it's
hard to cut with a brand new carbide tipped saw blade. Your post is
merely uninformed conjectures.


Well, David, you have to cut it with something. If you can't do it
with a power saw because it's too noisy, then you have to do it with a
handsaw. Might not be the way you'd like to see it done, and it may
not be easy, but a saw is a saw. Sure, it'll wear out the blade, but
that's true of the power saw blades as well. Either way, the flooring
has to be cut, right? FWIW, I have cut laminate flooring with a
dozuki, and continued to use it long after that project, until I cut a
nail in half with it by mistake and broke a bunch of teeth. Yes, I
did cut the nail in half- it's not hyperbole. Not the suggested use
for that tool, but even the cheap ones are tougher than you may think.




What brand of laminate did you cut? I use Wilson Art flooring which
makes me cringe each time I bring the blade down on my carbide
blade-equipped CMS. I'm still mulling over my options for cutting the
already-installed flooring for some new cabinets. I've got a carbide
blade for my 6-1/2" circular saw, but that will only do the long
straight runs. I'll need another tool to cut into the corners and up
against walls. Any ideas?

Dave

Dave

wrote:
.....
Never sharpened a shovel, have you and why?

Of course, and for the same reason one sharpens any cutting-edge tool...

CW wrote:
Silicon carbide stones do a great job on axes and shovels. Don't really do
much woodworking, do you?

wrote in message
oups.com...

CW wrote:
BTW, my oilstones are made from silicon carbide--harder than
alundum.

Not sure what your point is about axes and shovels.

I mostly use waterstones for planes and chisels. The coarse
or fine carborundum stones are good for grinding or repairing
the bezel, much as one would use a file on a nicked axe.

Never sharpened a shovel, have you and why?

I don't do as much woodworking as I'd like to.

--

FF

David wrote:

Prometheus wrote:

On Sun, 14 Aug 2005 09:13:39 -0700, David wrote:


I'd bet you've never cut laminate flooring! That stuff is so tough it's
hard to cut with a brand new carbide tipped saw blade. Your post is
merely uninformed conjectures.


Well, David, you have to cut it with something. If you can't do it
with a power saw because it's too noisy, then you have to do it with a
handsaw. Might not be the way you'd like to see it done, and it may
not be easy, but a saw is a saw. Sure, it'll wear out the blade, but
that's true of the power saw blades as well. Either way, the flooring
has to be cut, right? FWIW, I have cut laminate flooring with a
dozuki, and continued to use it long after that project, until I cut a
nail in half with it by mistake and broke a bunch of teeth. Yes, I
did cut the nail in half- it's not hyperbole. Not the suggested use
for that tool, but even the cheap ones are tougher than you may think.




What brand of laminate did you cut? I use Wilson Art flooring which
makes me cringe each time I bring the blade down on my carbide
blade-equipped CMS. I'm still mulling over my options for cutting the
already-installed flooring for some new cabinets. I've got a carbide
blade for my 6-1/2" circular saw, but that will only do the long
straight runs. I'll need another tool to cut into the corners and up
against walls. Any ideas?

Router w/ uptwist bit and upper bearing guide if need really good finish
edge--otherwise, just hog it out and use the shoe mould to cover it
up...

David wrote:
...

What brand of laminate did you cut? I use Wilson Art flooring which
makes me cringe each time I bring the blade down on my carbide
blade-equipped CMS. I'm still mulling over my options for cutting the
already-installed flooring for some new cabinets. I've got a carbide
blade for my 6-1/2" circular saw, but that will only do the long
straight runs. I'll need another tool to cut into the corners and up
against walls. Any ideas?



The same guy who used to go arouns to the woodworkign shows and
sell the drill bits that drill through files etc, sold reciprocating
saw blades (sawzall and saber saw) that were edged with silicon
carbide abrasive. If you can find one of those or the equivalent,
they might do the job. You could make a handle for one of those to
make a pad saw for getting into really tight places.

Does that company have an online presence?

--

FF

wrote:

David wrote:

...

What brand of laminate did you cut? I use Wilson Art flooring which
makes me cringe each time I bring the blade down on my carbide
blade-equipped CMS. I'm still mulling over my options for cutting the
already-installed flooring for some new cabinets. I've got a carbide
blade for my 6-1/2" circular saw, but that will only do the long
straight runs. I'll need another tool to cut into the corners and up
against walls. Any ideas?




The same guy who used to go arouns to the woodworkign shows and
sell the drill bits that drill through files etc, sold reciprocating
saw blades (sawzall and saber saw) that were edged with silicon
carbide abrasive. If you can find one of those or the equivalent,
they might do the job. You could make a handle for one of those to
make a pad saw for getting into really tight places.

Does that company have an online presence?

I just bought a carbide edged bit for my Sawzall but the stroke on the
Sawzall is over an inch long, which would have me cutting well through
the floor as well as the laminate.

Is there a jig-saw-like tool that cuts flush and has a carbide edged bit
available?? I could limit it's cutting depth by covering the laminate
with a block of wood and the stroke of a jigsaw should be a lot less
than my Sawzall.

Dave

On Mon, 15 Aug 2005 12:58:17 -0700, David wrote:


Is there a jig-saw-like tool that cuts flush and has a carbide edged bit
available?? I could limit it's cutting depth by covering the laminate
with a block of wood and the stroke of a jigsaw should be a lot less
than my Sawzall.

Dave


fein multimaster.

s wrote:

On Mon, 15 Aug 2005 12:58:17 -0700, David wrote:


Is there a jig-saw-like tool that cuts flush and has a carbide edged bit
available?? I could limit it's cutting depth by covering the laminate
with a block of wood and the stroke of a jigsaw should be a lot less
than my Sawzall.

Dave



fein multimaster.

thanks. I'll check it out. It might be worth what I'd expect would be
a hefty admission price, like my Fein shop vac.

Dave

wrote:

CW wrote:

Silicon carbide stones do a great job on axes and shovels. Don't really do
much woodworking, do you?

wrote in message
groups.com...

CW wrote:
BTW, my oilstones are made from silicon carbide--harder than
alundum.


Not sure what your point is about axes and shovels.

I mostly use waterstones for planes and chisels. The coarse
or fine carborundum stones are good for grinding or repairing
the bezel, much as one would use a file on a nicked axe.

Never sharpened a shovel, have you and why?

I don't do as much woodworking as I'd like to.

I've got hard packed clay soil and YES, I've sharpened the end of my
shovels. The neighbors get ****ed off when I set of dynamite to make a
hole for my roses.

Dave

On Mon, 15 Aug 2005 08:52:03 -0700, David wrote:

Prometheus wrote:

On Sun, 14 Aug 2005 09:13:39 -0700, David wrote:


I'd bet you've never cut laminate flooring! That stuff is so tough it's
hard to cut with a brand new carbide tipped saw blade. Your post is
merely uninformed conjectures.


Well, David, you have to cut it with something. If you can't do it
with a power saw because it's too noisy, then you have to do it with a
handsaw. Might not be the way you'd like to see it done, and it may
not be easy, but a saw is a saw. Sure, it'll wear out the blade, but
that's true of the power saw blades as well. Either way, the flooring
has to be cut, right? FWIW, I have cut laminate flooring with a
dozuki, and continued to use it long after that project, until I cut a
nail in half with it by mistake and broke a bunch of teeth. Yes, I
did cut the nail in half- it's not hyperbole. Not the suggested use
for that tool, but even the cheap ones are tougher than you may think.




What brand of laminate did you cut? I use Wilson Art flooring which
makes me cringe each time I bring the blade down on my carbide
blade-equipped CMS. I'm still mulling over my options for cutting the
already-installed flooring for some new cabinets. I've got a carbide
blade for my 6-1/2" circular saw, but that will only do the long
straight runs. I'll need another tool to cut into the corners and up
against walls. Any ideas?

Pergo. It seemed to cut fine to me, but YMMV.

That's a sticky job you've got there... I don't know much about the
Wilson Art flooring, but perhaps you could remove the trim and use a
really cheap abrasive disc in a 4" angle grinder? That'd get you
really close, and then you could knock out the rest with a sharp
chisel (Use a cheap chisel, of course)

Prometheus wrote:

On Mon, 15 Aug 2005 08:52:03 -0700, David wrote:


Prometheus wrote:


On Sun, 14 Aug 2005 09:13:39 -0700, David wrote:



I'd bet you've never cut laminate flooring! That stuff is so tough it's
hard to cut with a brand new carbide tipped saw blade. Your post is
merely uninformed conjectures.


Well, David, you have to cut it with something. If you can't do it
with a power saw because it's too noisy, then you have to do it with a
handsaw. Might not be the way you'd like to see it done, and it may
not be easy, but a saw is a saw. Sure, it'll wear out the blade, but
that's true of the power saw blades as well. Either way, the flooring
has to be cut, right? FWIW, I have cut laminate flooring with a
dozuki, and continued to use it long after that project, until I cut a
nail in half with it by mistake and broke a bunch of teeth. Yes, I
did cut the nail in half- it's not hyperbole. Not the suggested use
for that tool, but even the cheap ones are tougher than you may think.





What brand of laminate did you cut? I use Wilson Art flooring which
makes me cringe each time I bring the blade down on my carbide
blade-equipped CMS. I'm still mulling over my options for cutting the
already-installed flooring for some new cabinets. I've got a carbide
blade for my 6-1/2" circular saw, but that will only do the long
straight runs. I'll need another tool to cut into the corners and up
against walls. Any ideas?


Pergo. It seemed to cut fine to me, but YMMV.

That's a sticky job you've got there... I don't know much about the
Wilson Art flooring, but perhaps you could remove the trim and use a
really cheap abrasive disc in a 4" angle grinder? That'd get you
really close, and then you could knock out the rest with a sharp
chisel (Use a cheap chisel, of course)
I do have an air powered angle grinder (it never has much "oomph", but
lots of RPM). I'll try it on some scrap laminate (and I could remove
the trim...DUH! (light bulb moment!)...I will HAVE to cut the trim
anyway, in order to install the wider cabinets.

(And here I was thinking I'd found the perfect excuse for a new
tool...but that's ok...I still need another Veritas plane [or 2])

Dave

David wrote in
news
s wrote:

On Mon, 15 Aug 2005 12:58:17 -0700, David wrote:


Is there a jig-saw-like tool that cuts flush and has a carbide edged
bit available?? I could limit it's cutting depth by covering the
laminate with a block of wood and the stroke of a jigsaw should be a
lot less than my Sawzall.

Dave



fein multimaster.

thanks. I'll check it out. It might be worth what I'd expect would
be a hefty admission price, like my Fein shop vac.

Dave


Not too bad. The midrange kit is about $239, IIRC. Woodcraft has them, as
well as some of the better builder supply yards.

The carbide grout cutter tool is a life saver when, for example, a
woodworker tiles a shower, and gets a little exhuberent with the thinset.
Just to pick an entirely random for instance.

But it is one sweet tool.

Patriarch