Hi all

My sthil ms260 was starting fine but overheating and cutting out. My local garden machinery repair place told me it was because the piston/cylinder was scratched and as this would probably have damaged the rod it was beyond economic repair.

Knowing nothing about engines, but surprised by the cost of new chainsaws, I spent some time on google and youtube. I ordered a new crankshaft, piston, various bearings, gaskets and cylinder assembly. It took me alot longer than I anticipated but the chainsaw is now back together with all the bits replaced. I was happy with everything but now realise that with all the jumping about on youtube I have greased one bearing too many. As well as the bearing I should have greased (in the sprocket) I have also lightly greased the little end bearing with lithium grease. I know really I should take it all apart again to clean it and put it all back together, but if I started and ran the saw as it is and everything else was right would it do much harm?

TIA

On Tue, 20 Apr 2021 13:48:55 -0700 (PDT), Chade
wrote:

Hi all

My sthil ms260 was starting fine but overheating and cutting out. My local garden machinery repair place told me it was because the piston/cylinder was scratched

Do you know how they knew that?

and as this would probably have damaged the rod it was beyond economic repair.

'Probably'?

Knowing nothing about engines, but surprised by the cost of new chainsaws, I spent some time on google and youtube. I ordered a new crankshaft, piston, various bearings, gaskets and cylinder assembly.

Ouch (unless they were Chinese clones)?

It took me alot longer than I anticipated but the chainsaw is now back together with all the bits replaced.

They are quite straightforward once you are used to them. Daughter had
to demonstrate basic engineering skills on her MS260 as part of one of
her chainsaw tickets (CS30?). [1]

I was happy with everything but now realise that with all the jumping about on youtube I have greased one bearing too many. As well as the bearing I should have greased (in the sprocket) I have also lightly greased the little end bearing with lithium grease.

Are these 'plain bearings' (metal on metal) or 'open' (presumably)
roller or ball bearings?

I know really I should take it all apart again to clean it and put it all back together, but if I started and ran the saw as it is and everything else was right would it do much harm?

The only place I can think of where you wouldn't want grease is on the
centrifugal clutch shoes and they are fairly easy to get to if you
thought there was a chance.

If they did have grease on them some brake cleaner might get it off or
when I was a lad I'd boil them in some washing detergent. ;-)

Cheers, T i m

[1] When taking their chainsaw maintenance test (at the Arb College)
the group all worked at the same time and were 'tested' on completion
of the re-assembly.

One lad presented his saw and the examiner questioned 'if he was
finished'. He said he was, so he repeated the question ... 'are you
sure you have finished', same reply. So he failed him for having the
chain on back to front. ;-(

On 21/04/2021 11:21, T i m wrote:
On Tue, 20 Apr 2021 13:48:55 -0700 (PDT), Chade


I was happy with everything but now realise that with all the jumping about on youtube I have greased one bearing too many. As well as the bearing I should have greased (in the sprocket) I have also lightly greased the little end bearing with lithium grease.

Are these 'plain bearings' (metal on metal) or 'open' (presumably)
roller or ball bearings?

I'd expect it to be a needle roller.


I know really I should take it all apart again to clean it and put it all back together, but if I started and ran the saw as it is and everything else was right would it do much harm?

I wouldn't worry about having greased it, once it gets warm the grease
will soften and inertial forces will take care of the rest. As it is a
two-stroke any grease residues will rapidly be flushed out through the
cylinder.


The only place I can think of where you wouldn't want grease is on the
centrifugal clutch shoes and they are fairly easy to get to if you
thought there was a chance.

If they did have grease on them some brake cleaner might get it off or
when I was a lad I'd boil them in some washing detergent. ;-)

IME modern linings in CF clutches are fairly insensitive to mineral
oils. But I agree with your fixes if that is a problem

On Wednesday, April 21, 2021 at 11:21:13 AM UTC+1, T i m wrote:
On Tue, 20 Apr 2021 13:48:55 -0700 (PDT), Chade
wrote:
Hi all

My sthil ms260 was starting fine but overheating and cutting out. My local garden machinery repair place told me it was because the piston/cylinder was scratched
Do you know how they knew that?

They said they had removed the muffler and so looked directly at the piston..

and as this would probably have damaged the rod it was beyond economic repair.
'Probably'?

Knowing nothing about engines, but surprised by the cost of new chainsaws, I spent some time on google and youtube. I ordered a new crankshaft, piston, various bearings, gaskets and cylinder assembly.
Ouch (unless they were Chinese clones)?

Apart from one bearing they were third party at less than a third the cost.

It took me alot longer than I anticipated but the chainsaw is now back together with all the bits replaced.
They are quite straightforward once you are used to them. Daughter had
to demonstrate basic engineering skills on her MS260 as part of one of
her chainsaw tickets (CS30?). [1]
I was happy with everything but now realise that with all the jumping about on youtube I have greased one bearing too many. As well as the bearing I should have greased (in the sprocket) I have also lightly greased the little end bearing with lithium grease.
Are these 'plain bearings' (metal on metal) or 'open' (presumably)
roller or ball bearings?

Pin roller bearings. I guess they would be classed as open.

I know really I should take it all apart again to clean it and put it all back together, but if I started and ran the saw as it is and everything else was right would it do much harm?
The only place I can think of where you wouldn't want grease is on the
centrifugal clutch shoes and they are fairly easy to get to if you
thought there was a chance.

The clutch shoes are grease free.


If they did have grease on them some brake cleaner might get it off or
when I was a lad I'd boil them in some washing detergent. ;-)

Cheers, T i m

[1] When taking their chainsaw maintenance test (at the Arb College)
the group all worked at the same time and were 'tested' on completion
of the re-assembly.

One lad presented his saw and the examiner questioned 'if he was
finished'. He said he was, so he repeated the question ... 'are you
sure you have finished', same reply. So he failed him for having the
chain on back to front. ;-(

On Wednesday, April 21, 2021 at 8:55:35 PM UTC+1, newshound wrote:
On 21/04/2021 11:21, T i m wrote:
On Tue, 20 Apr 2021 13:48:55 -0700 (PDT), Chade


I was happy with everything but now realise that with all the jumping about on youtube I have greased one bearing too many. As well as the bearing I should have greased (in the sprocket) I have also lightly greased the little end bearing with lithium grease.

Are these 'plain bearings' (metal on metal) or 'open' (presumably)
roller or ball bearings?
I'd expect it to be a needle roller.

I know really I should take it all apart again to clean it and put it all back together, but if I started and ran the saw as it is and everything else was right would it do much harm?
I wouldn't worry about having greased it, once it gets warm the grease
will soften and inertial forces will take care of the rest. As it is a
two-stroke any grease residues will rapidly be flushed out through the
cylinder.

The only place I can think of where you wouldn't want grease is on the
centrifugal clutch shoes and they are fairly easy to get to if you
thought there was a chance.

If they did have grease on them some brake cleaner might get it off or
when I was a lad I'd boil them in some washing detergent. ;-)
IME modern linings in CF clutches are fairly insensitive to mineral
oils. But I agree with your fixes if that is a problem

Thanks. I was worried about it dissolving in the fuel and gumming up the piston somehow.

On Thu, 22 Apr 2021 16:45:50 -0700 (PDT), Chade
wrote:

On Wednesday, April 21, 2021 at 11:21:13 AM UTC+1, T i m wrote:
On Tue, 20 Apr 2021 13:48:55 -0700 (PDT), Chade
wrote:
Hi all

My sthil ms260 was starting fine but overheating and cutting out. My local garden machinery repair place told me it was because the piston/cylinder was scratched
Do you know how they knew that?

They said they had removed the muffler and so looked directly at the piston.

Ok. Did they give you it back complete and did you confirm the damage
when it was apart OOI?

and as this would probably have damaged the rod it was beyond economic repair.
'Probably'?

If you still have the old parts, can you feel any slack in the big end
bearing or gudgeon pin? If you hold the crankshaft still and the
conrod square to the crank, can you move the rod up and down at all
(in the same plane as the rod, not sideways or rock it etc)? If not
(and same with the piston to rod), you might not have needed a crank
if they don't come as one assembly (with piston etc) and maybe keep it
as a spare?

Knowing nothing about engines, but surprised by the cost of new chainsaws, I spent some time on google and youtube. I ordered a new crankshaft, piston, various bearings, gaskets and cylinder assembly.
Ouch (unless they were Chinese clones)?

Apart from one bearing they were third party at less than a third the cost.

OK, result. ;-)

snip

Are these 'plain bearings' (metal on metal) or 'open' (presumably)
roller or ball bearings?

Pin roller bearings. I guess they would be classed as open.

Yes, 'open' in that they didn't have seals and you could get grease on
them (even if only when out of the machine etc).

I know really I should take it all apart again to clean it and put it all back together, but if I started and ran the saw as it is and everything else was right would it do much harm?
The only place I can think of where you wouldn't want grease is on the
centrifugal clutch shoes and they are fairly easy to get to if you
thought there was a chance.

The clutch shoes are grease free.

Cool.

As newshound confirmed, the chances are any bearing in a chainsaw is
unlikely to suffer with (over/) greasing and if it's say on the big
end or crankshaft main bearings, are likely to be washed out with fuel
pretty quickly anyway (and why there is oil in the 2/ mix).

Well done for saving another otherwise 'written off' tool (we have
saved others similarly by mixing and matching 'broken' kit).

Cheers, T i m

On 23/04/2021 00:45, Chade wrote:
On Wednesday, April 21, 2021 at 11:21:13 AM UTC+1, T i m wrote:
On Tue, 20 Apr 2021 13:48:55 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:
Hi all

My sthil ms260 was starting fine but overheating and cutting out. My local garden machinery repair place told me it was because the piston/cylinder was scratched
Do you know how they knew that?
They said they had removed the muffler and so looked directly at the piston.

This is standard first call with a saw that has become difficult to
start, most often the damage is on the hot exhaust gas side and you can
see there the aluminium has smeared on the ring.

On 23/04/2021 00:47, Chade wrote:
On Wednesday, April 21, 2021 at 8:55:35 PM UTC+1, newshound wrote:
On 21/04/2021 11:21, T i m wrote:
On Tue, 20 Apr 2021 13:48:55 -0700 (PDT), Chade


I was happy with everything but now realise that with all the jumping about on youtube I have greased one bearing too many. As well as the bearing I should have greased (in the sprocket) I have also lightly greased the little end bearing with lithium grease.

Are these 'plain bearings' (metal on metal) or 'open' (presumably)
roller or ball bearings?
I'd expect it to be a needle roller.

I know really I should take it all apart again to clean it and put it all back together, but if I started and ran the saw as it is and everything else was right would it do much harm?
I wouldn't worry about having greased it, once it gets warm the grease
will soften and inertial forces will take care of the rest. As it is a
two-stroke any grease residues will rapidly be flushed out through the
cylinder.

The only place I can think of where you wouldn't want grease is on the
centrifugal clutch shoes and they are fairly easy to get to if you
thought there was a chance.

If they did have grease on them some brake cleaner might get it off or
when I was a lad I'd boil them in some washing detergent. ;-)
IME modern linings in CF clutches are fairly insensitive to mineral
oils. But I agree with your fixes if that is a problem

Thanks. I was worried about it dissolving in the fuel and gumming up the piston somehow.

Won't happen. You will get a trace of (probably) lithium salts as it
burns up on its way through the cylinder. Two stroke oils used to be
ordinary mineral oils (like the "oil" part of the grease). Modern ones
tend to be synthetics with less tendency to form gums and lacquers, but
there's only a tiny amount in the bearing compared to what the engine
will use in an hour's running.

On Friday, April 23, 2021 at 10:37:07 AM UTC+1, T i m wrote:
On Thu, 22 Apr 2021 16:45:50 -0700 (PDT), Chade
wrote:

On Wednesday, April 21, 2021 at 11:21:13 AM UTC+1, T i m wrote:
On Tue, 20 Apr 2021 13:48:55 -0700 (PDT), Chade
wrote:
Hi all

My sthil ms260 was starting fine but overheating and cutting out. My local garden machinery repair place told me it was because the piston/cylinder was scratched
Do you know how they knew that?

They said they had removed the muffler and so looked directly at the piston.
Ok. Did they give you it back complete and did you confirm the damage
when it was apart OOI?

and as this would probably have damaged the rod it was beyond economic repair.
'Probably'?
If you still have the old parts, can you feel any slack in the big end
bearing or gudgeon pin? If you hold the crankshaft still and the
conrod square to the crank, can you move the rod up and down at all
(in the same plane as the rod, not sideways or rock it etc)? If not
(and same with the piston to rod), you might not have needed a crank
if they don't come as one assembly (with piston etc) and maybe keep it
as a spare?

I will examine it and see. Thanks.

snip

Well done for saving another otherwise 'written off' tool (we have
saved others similarly by mixing and matching 'broken' kit).


I have two other chainsaws in the shed that are not running right one a bequest and one I was previously told was obsolete with parts unavailable. Yet When I inquired at the place that looked at the MS260 they swore they could still get them by ordering direct from Sthil.

On Friday, April 23, 2021 at 11:41:07 AM UTC+1, AJH wrote:
On 23/04/2021 00:45, Chade wrote:
On Wednesday, April 21, 2021 at 11:21:13 AM UTC+1, T i m wrote:
On Tue, 20 Apr 2021 13:48:55 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:
Hi all

My sthil ms260 was starting fine but overheating and cutting out. My local garden machinery repair place told me it was because the piston/cylinder was scratched
Do you know how they knew that?
They said they had removed the muffler and so looked directly at the piston.

This is standard first call with a saw that has become difficult to
start, most often the damage is on the hot exhaust gas side and you can
see there the aluminium has smeared on the ring.

It was ok starting just overheated and cut out after a few minutes work. There were some scratches to be seen on the piston and cylinder but I would not say anything had smeared.

On Friday, April 23, 2021 at 10:37:07 AM UTC+1, T i m wrote:

snip

Ok. Did they give you it back complete and did you confirm the damage
when it was apart OOI?

Missed this question somehow. There was some scratches on the piston and cylinder. They did not seem terrible though and if I had seen a certain youtube video earlier where light scratches were polished out with fine "wet and dry" I might have been tempted to try that. I still might one day as an Sthil 038av that has slightly different symptoms was taken to them at the same time and they blamed it's problems on scratches and declared it uneconomic to repair too.

On Fri, 23 Apr 2021 15:12:15 -0700 (PDT), Chade
wrote:

snip

This is standard first call with a saw that has become difficult to
start, most often the damage is on the hot exhaust gas side and you can
see there the aluminium has smeared on the ring.

It was ok starting just overheated and cut out after a few minutes work. There were some scratches to be seen on the piston and cylinder but I would not say anything had smeared.

Just for the S&G's I put a new ring in a blower that had broken it's
ring and scratched the bore and whilst it did actually run, it didn't
run well (unsurprisingly). ;-)

Cheers, T i m

On Friday, April 23, 2021 at 11:09:47 PM UTC+1, Chade wrote:

snip
I have two other chainsaws in the shed that are not running right one a bequest and one I was previously told was obsolete with parts unavailable. Yet When I inquired at the place that looked at the MS260 they swore they could still get them by ordering direct from Sthil.

Apologies for replying to myself but despite not being to find the part I needed anywhere on the internet a few years ago I now see a new one listed on ebay. Yay!

Right. What do I need to do to a Sthil 026 that has not run for years to get it ready to go?

On Fri, 23 Apr 2021 15:09:45 -0700 (PDT), Chade
wrote:

snip

I have two other chainsaws in the shed that are not running right one a bequest and one I was previously told was obsolete with parts unavailable.

What you sometimes find is a lull between the manufacturer stocking a
part and aftermarket manufacturers stepping in to fill the (then
fairly limited) niche.

Yet When I inquired at the place that looked at the MS260 they swore they could still get them by ordering direct from Sthil.

Might be worth dragging them out and giving them a look over, now you
have had success with the MS260. ;-)

You can easily check for spark, compression, see if it's getting fuel
etc etc, then if it does start but rattles you have a better idea what
you might be in for.

Cheers, T i m

On Friday, April 23, 2021 at 11:31:12 PM UTC+1, T i m wrote:
On Fri, 23 Apr 2021 15:09:45 -0700 (PDT), Chade
wrote:

snip
I have two other chainsaws in the shed that are not running right one a bequest and one I was previously told was obsolete with parts unavailable.
What you sometimes find is a lull between the manufacturer stocking a
part and aftermarket manufacturers stepping in to fill the (then
fairly limited) niche.
Yet When I inquired at the place that looked at the MS260 they swore they could still get them by ordering direct from Sthil.
Might be worth dragging them out and giving them a look over, now you
have had success with the MS260. ;-)

You can easily check for spark, compression, see if it's getting fuel
etc etc, then if it does start but rattles you have a better idea what
you might be in for.

I have another post on this thread about the Sthil 026. The other problem saw is a sthil 038av. It starts okay, sounds okay but only runs about two minutes before cutting out.

On Fri, 23 Apr 2021 15:36:30 -0700 (PDT), Chade
wrote:

snip

I have another post on this thread about the Sthil 026.

Seen.

The other problem saw is a sthil 038av.

;-)

It starts okay, sounds okay but only runs about two minutes before cutting out.

That could be a thermal thing (depending if you can re-start it after
it's run for 2 mins and stops or not).

I had an ignition coil on a generator cause that exact problem [1] (it
wouldn't re-start until much cooler again). There was 'a' spark when
tested outside the cylinder, but obviously not enough to make the
machine actually run.

Obviously if it's been standing for any time with any fuel in it a
flush of all the fuel system (inc maybe cleaning the carb but leave
the actual strip down till last unless you have a service kit for it)
might be a worthwhile exercise.

On any old 2/, crank seals can also harden and cause all sorts of
strange issues (so would change them on any rebuild if there was any
hint of them not still being fully pliable).

Cheers, T i m

[1] Similar with the car, would start or restart when either cold or
hot, but not *re-start* when warm. Turned out to be the ECU.

On Fri, 23 Apr 2021 15:26:00 -0700 (PDT), Chade
wrote:

snip

they blamed it's problems on scratches and declared it uneconomic to repair too.

A local agricultural equipment place was 'repairing' new 4-2/ [1]
strimmers for £50 a go when it was just a matter of adjusting the
valve clearance (that literally takes seconds).

Cheers, T i m

[1] Still 'dry sump' so lubrication via the oil but with valves as per
4/ for better economy / emissions (less over scavenging).

On 23/04/2021 23:36, Chade wrote:
I have another post on this thread about the Sthil 026.

I must have missed this; O26s had a strange problem with wearing the
piston skirts wafer thin.

On 23/04/2021 23:27, T i m wrote:
On Fri, 23 Apr 2021 15:12:15 -0700 (PDT), Chade
wrote:

snip

This is standard first call with a saw that has become difficult to
start, most often the damage is on the hot exhaust gas side and you can
see there the aluminium has smeared on the ring.

It was ok starting just overheated and cut out after a few minutes work. There were some scratches to be seen on the piston and cylinder but I would not say anything had smeared.

Just for the S&G's I put a new ring in a blower that had broken it's
ring and scratched the bore and whilst it did actually run, it didn't
run well (unsurprisingly). ;-)

Cheers, T i m



With Nikasil lined cylinders it is unusual for the bore to get scratched
from seizing or "nipping up" unless a hard foreign object has been
ingested. What normally happens id the aluminium piston overheats and
partially melts, not only jamming the ring in the piston lands so it can
no longer spring out and make a seal but also the bore picks up some
aluminium. Often you can get away with replacing the piston and ring but
you must remove the aluminium pick up in the bore, both chemically and
followed by a light hone.

On Sat, 24 Apr 2021 10:19:32 +0100, AJH
wrote:

snip

With Nikasil lined cylinders it is unusual for the bore to get scratched
from seizing or "nipping up" unless a hard foreign object has been
ingested.

Agreed. I believe the barrels on both my BMW motorbikes and the
Merseschmitt are Nikasil plated.

What normally happens id the aluminium piston overheats and
partially melts, not only jamming the ring in the piston lands so it can
no longer spring out and make a seal but also the bore picks up some
aluminium.

Yeah. I used to spend quite a bit of time in the local motorcycle shop
(I was their voluntary 'IT guy' and they were personal friends g) so
seem loads of those sorts of things of the 'lads' of-road bikes.

Often you can get away with replacing the piston and ring but
you must remove the aluminium pick up in the bore, both chemically and
followed by a light hone.

Is there any chance any 'smearing' you / we see is the surface Nickel
being worn off till it gets to the Silicone Carbide in non seize
cases?

Cheers, T i m

On 24/04/2021 10:19, AJH wrote:
On 23/04/2021 23:27, T i m wrote:
On Fri, 23 Apr 2021 15:12:15 -0700 (PDT), Chade
wrote:

snip

This is standard first call with a saw that has become difficult to
start, most often the damage is on the hot exhaust gas side and you can
see there the aluminium has smeared on the ring.

It was ok starting just overheated and cut out after a few minutes
work. There were some scratches to be seen on the piston and cylinder
but I would not say anything had smeared.

Just for the S&G's I put a new ring in a blower that had broken it's
ring and scratched the bore and whilst it did actually run, it didn't
run well (unsurprisingly). ;-)

Cheers, T i m



With Nikasil lined cylinders it is unusual for the bore to get scratched
from seizing or "nipping up" unless a hard foreign object has been
ingested. What normally happens id the aluminium piston overheatsÂ* and
partially melts, not only jamming the ring in the piston lands so it can
no longer spring out and make a seal but also the bore picks up some
aluminium. Often you can get away with replacing the piston and ring but
you must remove the aluminium pick up in the bore, both chemically and
followed by a light hone.

surely easier to simply replace piston and cylinder

--
€œIt is not the truth of Marxism that explains the willingness of
intellectuals to believe it, but the power that it confers on
intellectuals, in their attempts to control the world. And since...it is
futile to reason someone out of a thing that he was not reasoned into,
we can conclude that Marxism owes its remarkable power to survive every
criticism to the fact that it is not a truth-directed but a
power-directed system of thought.€�
Sir Roger Scruton

On Sat, 24 Apr 2021 11:18:02 +0100, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:

snip

surely easier to simply replace piston and cylinder

'Surely', completely missing the point of this newsgroup ...?

'Surely' it would be 'easier' to get all the jobs many of us choose to
do ourselves, done by someone else, or to just buy new but it's not
the point.

Cheers, T i m

On 24/04/2021 11:47, T i m wrote:
On Sat, 24 Apr 2021 11:18:02 +0100, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:

snip

surely easier to simply replace piston and cylinder

'Surely', completely missing the point of this newsgroup ...?

'Surely' it would be 'easier' to get all the jobs many of us choose to
do ourselves, done by someone else, or to just buy new but it's not
the point.

Generally DIY is about cost where our time is free; where we gain
satisfaction from a job well done.

If the most cost-effective solution is to replace both, rather than
attempt a repair on a cylinder using tools and chemicals that aren't at
hand, then replacing both would be most prudent.

On 24/04/2021 12:27, Fredxx wrote:
On 24/04/2021 11:47, T i m wrote:
On Sat, 24 Apr 2021 11:18:02 +0100, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:

snip

surely easier to simply replace piston and cylinder

Well it's a question of cost and the cylinder is perfectly reusable, the
aluminium pick up can be etched off with oven cleaner, brick acid or
sulphuric acid, I prefer the first as a gel applied with a cotton bud.
The honing is okay done with 150 grit wet and dry. After market pistons
by meteor are nearly as good as OEM ones and a fraction of the price.


Generally DIY is about cost where our time is free; where we gain
satisfaction from a job well done.

Yes I get satisfaction out of repairing things but when I was working I
would replace a chainsaw as soon as it was a year old simply because of
the productivity and down time. The older saw then being kept as a
spare, I always carried two.

If the most cost-effective solution is to replace both, rather than
attempt a repair on a cylinder using tools and chemicals that aren't at
hand, then replacing both would be most prudent.

It's seldom cost effective to replace pot and piston with OEM parts as
they could exceed half the price of a new saw.

Having said that I'm still running a 30 year old saw for when I do go
out for a little work and all the parts are still available.

On Sat, 24 Apr 2021 12:27:19 +0100, Fredxx
wrote:

On 24/04/2021 11:47, T i m wrote:
On Sat, 24 Apr 2021 11:18:02 +0100, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:

snip

surely easier to simply replace piston and cylinder

'Surely', completely missing the point of this newsgroup ...?

'Surely' it would be 'easier' to get all the jobs many of us choose to
do ourselves, done by someone else, or to just buy new but it's not
the point.

Generally DIY is about cost where our time is free; where we gain
satisfaction from a job well done.

If the most cost-effective solution is to replace both, rather than
attempt a repair on a cylinder using tools and chemicals that aren't at
hand, then replacing both would be most prudent.

Well done for restating the '****ing obvious' troll ... as only you
and other left brainers would feel the need to do. ;-(

'Surely' it would be easier to get someone else to dig that hole you
are in deeper for you but you seem to be doing pretty well yourself.

Cheers, T i m

On 24/04/2021 13:57, T i m wrote:
On Sat, 24 Apr 2021 12:27:19 +0100, Fredxx
wrote:

On 24/04/2021 11:47, T i m wrote:
On Sat, 24 Apr 2021 11:18:02 +0100, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:

snip

surely easier to simply replace piston and cylinder

'Surely', completely missing the point of this newsgroup ...?

'Surely' it would be 'easier' to get all the jobs many of us choose to
do ourselves, done by someone else, or to just buy new but it's not
the point.

Generally DIY is about cost where our time is free; where we gain
satisfaction from a job well done.

If the most cost-effective solution is to replace both, rather than
attempt a repair on a cylinder using tools and chemicals that aren't at
hand, then replacing both would be most prudent.

Well done for restating the '****ing obvious' troll ... as only you
and other left brainers would feel the need to do. ;-(

'Surely' it would be easier to get someone else to dig that hole you
are in deeper for you but you seem to be doing pretty well yourself.

Unlike you I don't see a hole, nor the need to make one.

On Sat, 24 Apr 2021 16:55:13 +0100, Fredxx
wrote:

snip

'Surely' it would be easier to get someone else to dig that hole you
are in deeper for you but you seem to be doing pretty well yourself.

Unlike you I don't see a hole, nor the need to make one.

Of course you don't, you so deep in it it just looks like a skylight
to you.

But please keep digging, it's soooo entertaining.

Cheers, T i m

On Saturday, April 24, 2021 at 9:32:52 AM UTC+1, T i m wrote:
On Fri, 23 Apr 2021 15:36:30 -0700 (PDT), Chade
wrote:

snip

I have another post on this thread about the Sthil 026.
Seen.
The other problem saw is a sthil 038av.
;-)
It starts okay, sounds okay but only runs about two minutes before cutting out.
That could be a thermal thing (depending if you can re-start it after
it's run for 2 mins and stops or not).

I had an ignition coil on a generator cause that exact problem [1] (it
wouldn't re-start until much cooler again). There was 'a' spark when
tested outside the cylinder, but obviously not enough to make the
machine actually run.


The 038AV will start again straight away, but the cuts out again the same.

Obviously if it's been standing for any time with any fuel in it a
flush of all the fuel system (inc maybe cleaning the carb but leave
the actual strip down till last unless you have a service kit for it)
might be a worthwhile exercise.

On any old 2/, crank seals can also harden and cause all sorts of
strange issues (so would change them on any rebuild if there was any
hint of them not still being fully pliable).


It has not been stored full of fuel. I can not answer for how old crank seals are as I have not had it apart. Although I note that if stored with chain oil in it will slowly leak away. As it fitted with a long cutting bar it was only used very occasionally for felling trees that were too big for the ms260.

On Saturday, April 24, 2021 at 10:13:16 AM UTC+1, AJH wrote:
On 23/04/2021 23:36, Chade wrote:
I have another post on this thread about the Sthil 026.
I must have missed this; O26s had a strange problem with wearing the
piston skirts wafer thin.

Thanks for your reply. Having dug it out of the shed I see I was misremembering. It is an 028. Which puts me back to looking for a muffler.