While on my way to LA this morning, the ##!!%&!!! plastic hydraulic
line from my clutch slave to the clutch master blew out. Nifty 3/16"
hole in the side of it. No idea why it did this.

Ok..so I manage to creep up to the nearest town, and buy a piece of
3/8 gas line, some clamps and brake fluid and cut the line, and
sleeved it.

Since the Mazda/Ranger pickups use a ******* master cylinder, the
only possible way to bleed one is to lift the floor mat, pull off the
starter override switch and pop the snap ring that holds the piston
inside. This I did. I gently pulled it upwards until I got a bit of
brake fluid tricking out, then replaced everything, refilled the
reservoir, and tried the clutch. This resulted in a stream of break
fluid spewing out of the end of the master cylinder. Taking it all
back apart again, I completely removed the piston, inspected the two
cup seals, back flushed with clean brake fluid..and reassembled. Still
blew brake fluid. At this point I was screwed, so starting it in
gear, I drove back down the Grapevine , and the 40 odd miles to my
home, with no clutch.

Going around to all of the parts houses..no one stocks a rebuild kit
for the master cylinder and they all want $90USD for a new complete
cylinder assembly.

WTF??????????????

Are rebuild kits no longer available? Like I really can afford to
spend $90 for two cup seals no bigger than .5" in diameter.

#$%!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Gunner

"There is no difference between communism and socialism, except
in the means of achieving the same ultimate end: communism
proposes to enslave men by force, socialism - by vote. It is
merely the difference between murder and suicide."
- Ayn Rand, from "Foreign Policy Drains U.S. of Main
Weapons"

What year truck?

michael

On Tue, 10 Aug 2004 18:11:12 -0700, michael
wrote:

What year truck?

michael

1994 Mazda B3000.

Same as the Ford Ranger.

Gunner

"There is no difference between communism and socialism, except
in the means of achieving the same ultimate end: communism
proposes to enslave men by force, socialism - by vote. It is
merely the difference between murder and suicide."
- Ayn Rand, from "Foreign Policy Drains U.S. of Main
Weapons"

On Wed, 11 Aug 2004 00:04:24 GMT, Gunner
wrote:

While on my way to LA this morning, the ##!!%&!!! plastic hydraulic
line from my clutch slave to the clutch master blew out. Nifty 3/16"
hole in the side of it. No idea why it did this.

Ok..so I manage to creep up to the nearest town, and buy a piece of
3/8 gas line, some clamps and brake fluid and cut the line, and
sleeved it.

Since the Mazda/Ranger pickups use a ******* master cylinder, the
only possible way to bleed one is to lift the floor mat, pull off the
starter override switch and pop the snap ring that holds the piston
inside. This I did. I gently pulled it upwards until I got a bit of
brake fluid tricking out, then replaced everything, refilled the
reservoir, and tried the clutch. This resulted in a stream of break
fluid spewing out of the end of the master cylinder. Taking it all
back apart again, I completely removed the piston, inspected the two
cup seals, back flushed with clean brake fluid..and reassembled. Still
blew brake fluid. At this point I was screwed, so starting it in
gear, I drove back down the Grapevine , and the 40 odd miles to my
home, with no clutch.

Going around to all of the parts houses..no one stocks a rebuild kit
for the master cylinder and they all want $90USD for a new complete
cylinder assembly.

WTF??????????????

Are rebuild kits no longer available? Like I really can afford to
spend $90 for two cup seals no bigger than .5" in diameter.

#$%!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Gunner

How about a guess since your in trouble? Maybe the problem is with
the slave which caused the line to break form over pressure. If the
cups look ok you should be able to hold your tongue just right and get
it together without leaking till you find new parts. Maybe twist it
in.

Plastic line that goes down under a vehicle where one rock or branch
could break it? What's this world coming to? The last pool I did had
plastic fences in the neighborhood and the one I'm on now has the top
cap of the block wall glued on with liquid nails and a sloppy job at
that.

Wish I could help , but even my Toy's hydraulic clutch gets me to
scratching my head at times. Once in awhile it will start acting like
I ran it out of fluid and I'll check it all out and find nothing and
then it will start working again.

"Gunner" wrote in message
...
At this point I was screwed, so starting it in
gear, I drove back down the Grapevine , and the 40 odd miles to my
home, with no clutch.

For the standard-impaired... How do you drive without a clutch? I understand
it's not hard to shift up, but down? Or did you just stay in 1st the whole
way?

Regards,

Robin

Gunner wrote:

On Tue, 10 Aug 2004 18:11:12 -0700, michael
wrote:

What year truck?

michael

1994 Mazda B3000.

Same as the Ford Ranger.

Gunner


I'll ask about tomorrow. Someone may have a kit or master gathering
dust.


Buckshot's Daddy



"There is no difference between communism and socialism, except
in the means of achieving the same ultimate end: communism
proposes to enslave men by force, socialism - by vote. It is
merely the difference between murder and suicide."
- Ayn Rand, from "Foreign Policy Drains U.S. of Main
Weapons"

On Tue, 10 Aug 2004 18:52:06 -0700, Sunworshipper
wrote:

On Wed, 11 Aug 2004 00:04:24 GMT, Gunner
wrote:

While on my way to LA this morning, the ##!!%&!!! plastic hydraulic
line from my clutch slave to the clutch master blew out. Nifty 3/16"
hole in the side of it. No idea why it did this.

Ok..so I manage to creep up to the nearest town, and buy a piece of
3/8 gas line, some clamps and brake fluid and cut the line, and
sleeved it.

Since the Mazda/Ranger pickups use a ******* master cylinder, the
only possible way to bleed one is to lift the floor mat, pull off the
starter override switch and pop the snap ring that holds the piston
inside. This I did. I gently pulled it upwards until I got a bit of
brake fluid tricking out, then replaced everything, refilled the
reservoir, and tried the clutch. This resulted in a stream of break
fluid spewing out of the end of the master cylinder. Taking it all
back apart again, I completely removed the piston, inspected the two
cup seals, back flushed with clean brake fluid..and reassembled. Still
blew brake fluid. At this point I was screwed, so starting it in
gear, I drove back down the Grapevine , and the 40 odd miles to my
home, with no clutch.

Going around to all of the parts houses..no one stocks a rebuild kit
for the master cylinder and they all want $90USD for a new complete
cylinder assembly.

WTF??????????????

Are rebuild kits no longer available? Like I really can afford to
spend $90 for two cup seals no bigger than .5" in diameter.

#$%!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Gunner

How about a guess since your in trouble? Maybe the problem is with
the slave which caused the line to break form over pressure. If the
cups look ok you should be able to hold your tongue just right and get
it together without leaking till you find new parts. Maybe twist it
in.


I honed the inside of the cylinder, and twisted it in. Its working
now. At least for a while.

Plastic line that goes down under a vehicle where one rock or branch
could break it? What's this world coming to? The last pool I did had
plastic fences in the neighborhood and the one I'm on now has the top
cap of the block wall glued on with liquid nails and a sloppy job at
that.

The hole looked exactly like somone fired a BB from the inside. Really
strange.

I put a brass double ended ferral compression fitting on as a splice
and a bit of 3/16 tubing inside to compress against. Seems to be
holding pressure..so far.

Wish I could help , but even my Toy's hydraulic clutch gets me to
scratching my head at times. Once in awhile it will start acting like
I ran it out of fluid and I'll check it all out and find nothing and
then it will start working again.

It wouldnt be so bad, as the truck has 337,000 miles on it, but I put
a new master cylinder on it less than a year ago when the $%#@!!!!
slave cylinder went into meltdown. That ******* wraps around the pilot
shaft INSIDE the bell housing and carries the throw out bearing. So to
replace it, you have to drop the tranny. And its nearly all plastic
and when it goes into melt down..it really does melt down.


I figured that it was time to replace everything clutch related, so I
did.

Gunner


"There is no difference between communism and socialism, except
in the means of achieving the same ultimate end: communism
proposes to enslave men by force, socialism - by vote. It is
merely the difference between murder and suicide."
- Ayn Rand, from "Foreign Policy Drains U.S. of Main
Weapons"

"Robin S." wrote in
:


"Gunner" wrote in message
...
At this point I was screwed, so starting it in
gear, I drove back down the Grapevine , and the 40 odd miles to my
home, with no clutch.

For the standard-impaired... How do you drive without a clutch? I
understand it's not hard to shift up, but down? Or did you just stay
in 1st the whole way?

Regards,

Robin




You match engine RPM to tranny (road) speed. Learned this years ago when
driving big trucks that had no synchro's. You didn't drive them with a
clutch. The clutch was only for stopping/starting.



--
Anthony

You can't 'idiot proof' anything....every time you try, they just make
better idiots.

Remove sp to reply via email

It wouldnt be so bad, as the truck has 337,000 miles on it, but I put
a new master cylinder on it less than a year ago when the $%#@!!!!
slave cylinder went into meltdown. That ******* wraps around the pilot
shaft INSIDE the bell housing and carries the throw out bearing. So to
replace it, you have to drop the tranny. And its nearly all plastic
and when it goes into melt down..it really does melt down.


I figured that it was time to replace everything clutch related, so I
did.

Gunner

That doesn't sound like fun, on my Toy its on the outside of the
tranny and it's all metal. Lots of luck.

On Wed, 11 Aug 2004 09:46:23 GMT, Anthony
calmly ranted:

"Robin S." wrote in
m:

"Gunner" wrote in message
...
At this point I was screwed, so starting it in
gear, I drove back down the Grapevine , and the 40 odd miles to my
home, with no clutch.

For the standard-impaired... How do you drive without a clutch? I
understand it's not hard to shift up, but down? Or did you just stay
in 1st the whole way?

You match engine RPM to tranny (road) speed. Learned this years ago when
driving big trucks that had no synchro's. You didn't drive them with a
clutch. The clutch was only for stopping/starting.

Dad, who learned how to drive before they HAD synchros in
trannies, taught that to me when I had my old Corvair. I'd
amaze friends when I drove around town, up/down-shifting the
whole time without the clutch except at stop signs/lights.
Poor Robin has led a sheltered life.

Another thing I learned with that Corvair is that I could
shut the key off just before coming up on some friend, then
turn it back on just as I go to them. The glasspacks would
be full of gas and the ignition switch would light it. It
sounded like a cherry bomb went off right next to them. I
stopped that practice when one guy threw a rock at me for
scaring him. Ahh, the charm of youth!

--
-------------------------------------------------------
Never underestimate the innate animosity of inanimate objects.
----
http://diversify.com Dynamic Website Applications

Gunner wrote:

The hole looked exactly like somone fired a BB from the inside. Really
strange.

That sounds like the classic failure mode for plastic flex line. A
little kink or bend forms a bubble and blows out under pressure. Leaves
a dragged out bit of thin plastic around the hole. Looks like a bullet
hole, without an entry. Yech!

Any U-pick wreckers in your 'hood ? Around here I can figure on
spending about $8 for a clucth cylinder of any sort, from the places I
shop. If you go that way, grab a spare... :-)

I have been finding the parts dealers don't want to stock the nickel
and dime rebuild kits as much as they used to. I recently had to spend
about 45 minutes on the phone to find someone that would even admit that
I could get a clutch disc for my 86 B2000, without having to buy a
complete kit for $200. UAP NAPA has been good to me, in general.

Good luck!

Cheers
Trevor Jones

Gunner wrote:
While on my way to LA this morning, the ##!!%&!!! plastic hydraulic
line from my clutch slave to the clutch master blew out. Nifty 3/16"
hole in the side of it. No idea why it did this.

Ok..so I manage to creep up to the nearest town, and buy a piece of
3/8 gas line, some clamps and brake fluid and cut the line, and
sleeved it.

Since the Mazda/Ranger pickups use a ******* master cylinder, the
only possible way to bleed one is to lift the floor mat, pull off the
starter override switch and pop the snap ring that holds the piston
inside. This I did. I gently pulled it upwards until I got a bit of
brake fluid tricking out, then replaced everything, refilled the
reservoir, and tried the clutch. This resulted in a stream of break
fluid spewing out of the end of the master cylinder. Taking it all
back apart again, I completely removed the piston, inspected the two
cup seals, back flushed with clean brake fluid..and reassembled. Still
blew brake fluid. At this point I was screwed, so starting it in
gear, I drove back down the Grapevine , and the 40 odd miles to my
home, with no clutch.

Going around to all of the parts houses..no one stocks a rebuild kit
for the master cylinder and they all want $90USD for a new complete
cylinder assembly.

WTF??????????????

Are rebuild kits no longer available? Like I really can afford to
spend $90 for two cup seals no bigger than .5" in diameter.

#$%!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Gunner

"There is no difference between communism and socialism, except
in the means of achieving the same ultimate end: communism
proposes to enslave men by force, socialism - by vote. It is
merely the difference between murder and suicide."
- Ayn Rand, from "Foreign Policy Drains U.S. of Main
Weapons"

A prime example of why I wouldn't touch anything made by Ford, and
haven't since 1965...

Bob

In article ,
"Robin S." wrote:

"Gunner" wrote in message
...
At this point I was screwed, so starting it in
gear, I drove back down the Grapevine , and the 40 odd miles to my
home, with no clutch.

For the standard-impaired... How do you drive without a clutch? I understand
it's not hard to shift up, but down? Or did you just stay in 1st the whole
way?

Simple rule of thumb: When upshifting, your revs drop to match the new
gear. When downshifting, your revs rise to meet the new gear.

Basic process:
I've got an upshift coming up. Pull the tranny out of gear. Allow engine
to wind down to approximately the right range (and this is almost always
a "practice until you figure it out for this particular car" concept).
Revs are about right? OK, try for the gear I'm wanting. Maybe need to
play with the throttle a little to match up more closely. Once I'm in
the new gear, mash or release the throttle as needed to achieve desired
ground speed. Done.

Downshifting is exactly the reverse: Pull it out of the gear you're in,
wind the engine up to the right revs (again, a "learn by practice"
thing) for the ground speed you're doing, then try for the gear you're
looking for, playing with the throttle as needed to get it to fall in.

The key concept involved is this:
At any given speed, in a specific gear, there is an engine RPM that
exactly matches the speed the input shaft of the transmission is
turning. You're looking for that engine speed. Once you find it on a
given vehicle, that's your shift point in and out of that gear. As long
as the ground speed and engine RPMs match, you'll be able to shift into
or out of that gear with either no grind at all, or only the tiniest bit
of grind.

A real-world example...
My '82 Mazda 626 is rolling along at 25 MPH according to the speedo.
What gear I'm currently in is irrelevant - I might even be in neutral.
Because I know this car well, I know that if I wind the engine up to
*ABOUT* 3500 RPM, I'll be able to slip into first without too much, if
any, trouble or grind. If I want second gear, I need to dump RPMs until
I hit roughly 2K on the tach. If I want third, then I'm going to have to
drop the RPMs to about 1300. For fourth, I need my revs at about 900.
(which is right up against the limit of practical for this car) For
fifth, I can just plain forget it at 25MPH. Nothing I can do from the
driver's seat can get the engine slowed down enough to match the speed
of the input shaft. In theory, about 400-500 RPM should let me do it,
but since this engine idles at 650-750 RPM depending on whether the AC
is on or not, it's simply not going to happen without a lot of grinding
and cussing, and even with a liberal amount of both, still probably
won't happen.

--
Don Bruder - - New Email policy in effect as of Feb. 21, 2004.
Short form: I'm trashing EVERY E-mail that doesn't contain a password in the
subject unless it comes from a "whitelisted" (pre-approved by me) address.
See http://www.sonic.net/~dakidd/main/contact.html for full details.

||
|| I have been finding the parts dealers don't want to stock the nickel
||and dime rebuild kits as much as they used to. I recently had to spend
||about 45 minutes on the phone to find someone that would even admit that
||I could get a clutch disc for my 86 B2000, without having to buy a
||complete kit for $200.

That's true. I think it has to do with the core handling & asbestos issues.
plus, the orientals across the water make them new for pennies.
Texas Parts Guy

On Wed, 11 Aug 2004 06:10:49 -0600, Trevor Jones
wrote:

Gunner wrote:

The hole looked exactly like somone fired a BB from the inside. Really
strange.

That sounds like the classic failure mode for plastic flex line. A
little kink or bend forms a bubble and blows out under pressure. Leaves
a dragged out bit of thin plastic around the hole. Looks like a bullet
hole, without an entry. Yech!

Any U-pick wreckers in your 'hood ? Around here I can figure on
spending about $8 for a clucth cylinder of any sort, from the places I
shop. If you go that way, grab a spare... :-)

I have been finding the parts dealers don't want to stock the nickel
and dime rebuild kits as much as they used to. I recently had to spend
about 45 minutes on the phone to find someone that would even admit that
I could get a clutch disc for my 86 B2000, without having to buy a
complete kit for $200. UAP NAPA has been good to me, in general.

Good luck!

Cheers
Trevor Jones

Ive haunted all the pick a parts in my neck of the woods and as yet
have to be able to find this particular model. They seem to run
forever. I really really need to find one that had been wrecked from
the rear, as all my smog parts are original, including the O2 sensors
and really need total replacement. I need to be able to strip one
down. I keep looking though.

Gunner

"There is no difference between communism and socialism, except
in the means of achieving the same ultimate end: communism
proposes to enslave men by force, socialism - by vote. It is
merely the difference between murder and suicide."
- Ayn Rand, from "Foreign Policy Drains U.S. of Main
Weapons"

Gunner

Try to locate a brake cylinder repair kit with the corect cup size.
many of the older parts stores had the individual cups available.

JRW



Gunner wrote in message . ..
While on my way to LA this morning, the ##!!%&!!! plastic hydraulic
line from my clutch slave to the clutch master blew out. Nifty 3/16"
hole in the side of it. No idea why it did this.

Ok..so I manage to creep up to the nearest town, and buy a piece of
3/8 gas line, some clamps and brake fluid and cut the line, and
sleeved it.

Since the Mazda/Ranger pickups use a ******* master cylinder, the
only possible way to bleed one is to lift the floor mat, pull off the
starter override switch and pop the snap ring that holds the piston
inside. This I did. I gently pulled it upwards until I got a bit of
brake fluid tricking out, then replaced everything, refilled the
reservoir, and tried the clutch. This resulted in a stream of break
fluid spewing out of the end of the master cylinder. Taking it all
back apart again, I completely removed the piston, inspected the two
cup seals, back flushed with clean brake fluid..and reassembled. Still
blew brake fluid. At this point I was screwed, so starting it in
gear, I drove back down the Grapevine , and the 40 odd miles to my
home, with no clutch.

Going around to all of the parts houses..no one stocks a rebuild kit
for the master cylinder and they all want $90USD for a new complete
cylinder assembly.

WTF??????????????

Are rebuild kits no longer available? Like I really can afford to
spend $90 for two cup seals no bigger than .5" in diameter.

#$%!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Gunner

"There is no difference between communism and socialism, except
in the means of achieving the same ultimate end: communism
proposes to enslave men by force, socialism - by vote. It is
merely the difference between murder and suicide."
- Ayn Rand, from "Foreign Policy Drains U.S. of Main
Weapons"

On 11 Aug 2004 09:01:08 -0700, (J.R. Williams) wrote:

||Gunner
||
||Try to locate a brake cylinder repair kit with the corect cup size.
||many of the older parts stores had the individual cups available.

I have a whole assortment of them. What size?
Texas Parts Guy

In article ,
(J.R. Williams) wrote:

Gunner

Try to locate a brake cylinder repair kit with the corect cup size.
many of the older parts stores had the individual cups available.

That was my move when I was having clutch MC trouble a while back. Darn
thing was eating cups. Went through three rebuild kits in 3 months.
Finally gave up on the Autozone/Kragen's BS and went to a *REAL*
auto-parts store (not Autozone, not Kragens, not anything similar - I'm
talking about the kind of place where you walk in and the smell of
machine oil gives you a friendly slap upside the head as a welcome,
there are stools at the counter so you can cop a squat and jawbone with
the guy behind the counter (who probably has grease-stains on his
coveralls, and maybe a streak of grease on his nose as he comes out of
the back wiping Go-Jo off his hands 'cause he just came in from helping
a customer put a newly bought part on his vehicle out in the parking
lot) about what it is you need, and so on - a *REAL* auto-parts store.)
and got myself half a dozen cups that were aimed at brake-slaves for a
buck and a half out the door. Been using those ever since.

In my case, they need to be cut down just slightly (the lip was a hair -
maybe two millimeters, if that - too "tall", so it completely blocked
the inlet port in the cylinder, although the diameter was right) by
brushing the open end across the wheel of the bench grinder a couple of
times, but otherwise, they were perfect. I'm running on the second one
of them now, in fact - the first one I cut down too far, so it died the
same way the (much lighter) "intended for the clutch MC" cups were
going. The slightly longer and heavier lip on the brake cups never
encounters the bad spot in the cylinder (A razor-edge on the forward
part of the inlet port that, with the edge of the piston, forms a
shear), so it doesn't get pushed up into the inlet port by the piston
and "clipped off". The one in there now has been going strong for...
thinks Gotta be close to 7 months now, with no sign at all of trouble.

I hear the nanny-state folks already... "What if it fails 'cause you
used the wrong parts!?!? You could kill somebody!" Hardly... It's a
clutch, not brakes or steering. A clutch is, at least to anyone I
consider to be a minimally skilled driver of a stick, nothing more than
a convenience item for everything but starting from a dead stop. Other
than that specific situation, there is no actual "gotta have it to make
things work" need for a clutch. (Yes, I know, slap-shifting isn't always
fun and easy, but it *IS* doable in *EVERY* vehicle with a manual
transmission, whether it's a stick or "on the tree", that I've ever
gotten behind the wheel of) So the clutch fails. Big fat hairy deal.
Worst case scenario: I find out I've got no clutch "the hard way", by
stepping on it and getting no response. Oooh!!!! Panic situation! We're
all gonna die!!!! NOT!

How hard is it to slap the shifter into neutral and coast to the side of
the road? Or, more likely, just keep on driving, shifting clutchless if
needed, until I find someplace to either turn around and go home to the
toolkit, or if I've got my usual travelling kit with me, sit there and
do the 20 minute cup-swap? Never mind the fact that I have yet to meet a
vehicle that can't be stopped by mashing the brakes, regardless of the
gear it might be "stuck" in. Sure, it'll probably stall out in the
process, but so what?

Nah... safety considerations on this substitution are nil, so save the
lecture for someone who actually needs it.

Of course, there's another plus: the rebuild kit for my MC is (or was -
probably closer to $25 now, what with inflation) $19.68 plus tax. It
consists of a new (or perhaps salvaged? No way to be certain, really)
aluminum piston, a spring, and a new rubber cup. Other than the first
time, I've never replaced the piston or spring - They simply don't wear
out. Why should I buy a $20 kit when all I actually need is a 25 cent
rubber and 20 minutes to put it in?

--
Don Bruder - - New Email policy in effect as of Feb. 21, 2004.
Short form: I'm trashing EVERY E-mail that doesn't contain a password in the
subject unless it comes from a "whitelisted" (pre-approved by me) address.
See http://www.sonic.net/~dakidd/main/contact.html for full details.

Gunner wrote:

It wouldnt be so bad, as the truck has 337,000 miles on it, but I put
a new master cylinder on it less than a year ago when the $%#@!!!!
slave cylinder went into meltdown. That ******* wraps around the pilot
shaft INSIDE the bell housing and carries the throw out bearing. So to
replace it, you have to drop the tranny. And its nearly all plastic
and when it goes into melt down..it really does melt down.



Yeah, my experience has been that replacement parts NEVER last as long
as the originals. Oh, except that time the pressure plate blew on my Vega
with 18000 miles on it! I had a choice of 2 clutch discs, about 7.5"
and 14"
and of course chose the big one. It was now practically impossible for
anyone
but me to drive it (one I learned the magic clutch trick that I called
the "inertial
dump", contrary to proper technique in all other vehicles) but the big
clutch
disc was still going strong at 76000 miles!

Otherwise, absolutely NOTHING I've ever replaced on a car lasted as long
as the original part.

Jon

This is a trick I use to get cup seals back in without damage:

Get some thin string, preferably the least "fuzzy" you can find. Very fine
monofilament nylon is best. When you are ready to put the cup seal into the
cylinder (Master or Slave - both work) carefully wind the string
continuously in a single layer around the cup seal from the outside end to
the inside (open) end. This will compress the seal at the cupped open end
so that you can insert it easily into the cylinder. Use just enough tension
so that the seal is compressed to a smaller diameter than the ID of the
cylinder. Insert it only a short distance into the cylinder with the loose
far end of the string sticking out enough so that you can pull it out slowly
as you unwind it. As you unwind the string, simultaneously slide the cup
into the cylinder. When all the string is unwound, the seal should be all
the way into the cylinder, with no kinks or wrinkles. This really works.

--
Bob (Chief Pilot, White Knuckle Airways)

I don't have to like Bush and Cheney (Or Kerry, for that matter) to love
America

"Sunworshipper" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 11 Aug 2004 00:04:24 GMT, Gunner
wrote:

While on my way to LA this morning, the ##!!%&!!! plastic hydraulic
line from my clutch slave to the clutch master blew out. Nifty 3/16"
hole in the side of it. No idea why it did this.

Ok..so I manage to creep up to the nearest town, and buy a piece of
3/8 gas line, some clamps and brake fluid and cut the line, and
sleeved it.

Since the Mazda/Ranger pickups use a ******* master cylinder, the
only possible way to bleed one is to lift the floor mat, pull off the
starter override switch and pop the snap ring that holds the piston
inside. This I did. I gently pulled it upwards until I got a bit of
brake fluid tricking out, then replaced everything, refilled the
reservoir, and tried the clutch. This resulted in a stream of break
fluid spewing out of the end of the master cylinder. Taking it all
back apart again, I completely removed the piston, inspected the two
cup seals, back flushed with clean brake fluid..and reassembled. Still
blew brake fluid. At this point I was screwed, so starting it in
gear, I drove back down the Grapevine , and the 40 odd miles to my
home, with no clutch.

Going around to all of the parts houses..no one stocks a rebuild kit
for the master cylinder and they all want $90USD for a new complete
cylinder assembly.

WTF??????????????

Are rebuild kits no longer available? Like I really can afford to
spend $90 for two cup seals no bigger than .5" in diameter.

#$%!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Gunner

How about a guess since your in trouble? Maybe the problem is with
the slave which caused the line to break form over pressure. If the
cups look ok you should be able to hold your tongue just right and get
it together without leaking till you find new parts. Maybe twist it
in.

Plastic line that goes down under a vehicle where one rock or branch
could break it? What's this world coming to? The last pool I did had
plastic fences in the neighborhood and the one I'm on now has the top
cap of the block wall glued on with liquid nails and a sloppy job at
that.

Wish I could help , but even my Toy's hydraulic clutch gets me to
scratching my head at times. Once in awhile it will start acting like
I ran it out of fluid and I'll check it all out and find nothing and
then it will start working again.

Shifting without the clutch on a tranny WITH syncros is a good way to end up
with a tranny WITHOUT syncros. Unless you are perfect every time, the
syncros will jam and produce major wear on the blocker rings.

OTOH, I've driven a few miles without a clutch several times in an
emergency. You want to be very careful. The last time was in traffic. I
tried a quick test to see if the engine would start in first. When I found
that it would (geared starter, light car), I just drove it to the garage in
stop and go traffic and had them put in a clutch cable (Honda Civic) to
replace the one that had snapped. It's really not hard, but you need to be
very gentle with your shifts. As the engine approaches the speed where it
will be when the gears are meshed, gently ease up against the syncro. When
the engine passes the right speed and the match is right, the syncro blocker
ring will let the collar pass, and it will drop in. Whatever you do, don't
force it in. That's a sure way to cause some damage.

It helps to have driven a few crash boxes. The worst I ever had to drive
was a '42 Chevy school bus that had a box full of sliding gears. Not even
one constant mesh gear, except for top, which was straight through. Like a
whole tranmission of unsyncronized first gears. What a bitch to drive, but
it developed your skills.

--
Bob (Chief Pilot, White Knuckle Airways)

I don't have to like Bush and Cheney (Or Kerry, for that matter) to love
America

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 11 Aug 2004 09:46:23 GMT, Anthony
calmly ranted:

"Robin S." wrote in
m:

"Gunner" wrote in message
...
At this point I was screwed, so starting it in
gear, I drove back down the Grapevine , and the 40 odd miles to my
home, with no clutch.

For the standard-impaired... How do you drive without a clutch? I
understand it's not hard to shift up, but down? Or did you just stay
in 1st the whole way?

You match engine RPM to tranny (road) speed. Learned this years ago when
driving big trucks that had no synchro's. You didn't drive them with a
clutch. The clutch was only for stopping/starting.

Dad, who learned how to drive before they HAD synchros in
trannies, taught that to me when I had my old Corvair. I'd
amaze friends when I drove around town, up/down-shifting the
whole time without the clutch except at stop signs/lights.
Poor Robin has led a sheltered life.

Another thing I learned with that Corvair is that I could
shut the key off just before coming up on some friend, then
turn it back on just as I go to them. The glasspacks would
be full of gas and the ignition switch would light it. It
sounded like a cherry bomb went off right next to them. I
stopped that practice when one guy threw a rock at me for
scaring him. Ahh, the charm of youth!

--
-------------------------------------------------------
Never underestimate the innate animosity of inanimate objects.
----
http://diversify.com Dynamic Website Applications

I've got two used ones, with hoses. 1 from my kids 93 and 1 from my 94. You
just need to come to Florida to get them.
gary


"Gunner" wrote in message
...
While on my way to LA this morning, the ##!!%&!!! plastic hydraulic
line from my clutch slave to the clutch master blew out. Nifty 3/16"
hole in the side of it. No idea why it did this.

Ok..so I manage to creep up to the nearest town, and buy a piece of
3/8 gas line, some clamps and brake fluid and cut the line, and
sleeved it.

Since the Mazda/Ranger pickups use a ******* master cylinder, the
only possible way to bleed one is to lift the floor mat, pull off the
starter override switch and pop the snap ring that holds the piston
inside. This I did. I gently pulled it upwards until I got a bit of
brake fluid tricking out, then replaced everything, refilled the
reservoir, and tried the clutch. This resulted in a stream of break
fluid spewing out of the end of the master cylinder. Taking it all
back apart again, I completely removed the piston, inspected the two
cup seals, back flushed with clean brake fluid..and reassembled. Still
blew brake fluid. At this point I was screwed, so starting it in
gear, I drove back down the Grapevine , and the 40 odd miles to my
home, with no clutch.

Going around to all of the parts houses..no one stocks a rebuild kit
for the master cylinder and they all want $90USD for a new complete
cylinder assembly.

WTF??????????????

Are rebuild kits no longer available? Like I really can afford to
spend $90 for two cup seals no bigger than .5" in diameter.

#$%!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Gunner

"There is no difference between communism and socialism, except
in the means of achieving the same ultimate end: communism
proposes to enslave men by force, socialism - by vote. It is
merely the difference between murder and suicide."
- Ayn Rand, from "Foreign Policy Drains U.S. of Main
Weapons"

"Bob Chilcoat" wrote in message
...
This is a trick I use to get cup seals back in without damage:

Get some thin string, preferably the least "fuzzy" you can find.

Dental floss? (I find more uses for that stuff)

Vaughn

Shifting without the clutch on a tranny WITH syncros is a good way to end up
with a tranny WITHOUT syncros. Unless you are perfect every time, the
syncros will jam and produce major wear on the blocker rings.
snip

It helps to have driven a few crash boxes. The worst I ever had to drive
was a '42 Chevy school bus that had a box full of sliding gears. Not even
one constant mesh gear, except for top, which was straight through. Like a
whole tranmission of unsyncronized first gears. What a bitch to drive, but
it developed your skills.

--
Bob (Chief Pilot, White Knuckle Airways)
This brings back fond memories, Bob.... grin Grew up on a farm and
could shift gears on all the farm tractors without clutching - UP and
DOWN.... G With the synchros in the tranny, it's actually a lot
easier nowadays. It's a good thing to know how to do and a little
practice now and then keeps the talent honed...
Ken.

I've got two used ones, from a 93 and 94 ranger, with hoses, but I'm in
Florida.
gary

"Gunner" wrote in message
...
While on my way to LA this morning, the ##!!%&!!! plastic hydraulic
line from my clutch slave to the clutch master blew out. Nifty 3/16"
hole in the side of it. No idea why it did this.

Ok..so I manage to creep up to the nearest town, and buy a piece of
3/8 gas line, some clamps and brake fluid and cut the line, and
sleeved it.

Since the Mazda/Ranger pickups use a ******* master cylinder, the
only possible way to bleed one is to lift the floor mat, pull off the
starter override switch and pop the snap ring that holds the piston
inside. This I did. I gently pulled it upwards until I got a bit of
brake fluid tricking out, then replaced everything, refilled the
reservoir, and tried the clutch. This resulted in a stream of break
fluid spewing out of the end of the master cylinder. Taking it all
back apart again, I completely removed the piston, inspected the two
cup seals, back flushed with clean brake fluid..and reassembled. Still
blew brake fluid. At this point I was screwed, so starting it in
gear, I drove back down the Grapevine , and the 40 odd miles to my
home, with no clutch.

Going around to all of the parts houses..no one stocks a rebuild kit
for the master cylinder and they all want $90USD for a new complete
cylinder assembly.

WTF??????????????

Are rebuild kits no longer available? Like I really can afford to
spend $90 for two cup seals no bigger than .5" in diameter.

#$%!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Gunner

"There is no difference between communism and socialism, except
in the means of achieving the same ultimate end: communism
proposes to enslave men by force, socialism - by vote. It is
merely the difference between murder and suicide."
- Ayn Rand, from "Foreign Policy Drains U.S. of Main
Weapons"

On Wed, 11 Aug 2004 18:22:38 -0400, "Bob Chilcoat"
wrote:

This is a trick I use to get cup seals back in without damage:

Get some thin string, preferably the least "fuzzy" you can find. Very fine
monofilament nylon is best. When you are ready to put the cup seal into the
cylinder (Master or Slave - both work) carefully wind the string
continuously in a single layer around the cup seal from the outside end to
the inside (open) end. This will compress the seal at the cupped open end
so that you can insert it easily into the cylinder. Use just enough tension
so that the seal is compressed to a smaller diameter than the ID of the
cylinder. Insert it only a short distance into the cylinder with the loose
far end of the string sticking out enough so that you can pull it out slowly
as you unwind it. As you unwind the string, simultaneously slide the cup
into the cylinder. When all the string is unwound, the seal should be all
the way into the cylinder, with no kinks or wrinkles. This really works.

Way cool! Thanks!

Gunner

"In my humble opinion, the petty carping levied against Bush by
the Democrats proves again, it is better to have your eye plucked
out by an eagle than to be nibbled to death by ducks." - Norman
Liebmann

On Thu, 12 Aug 2004 03:40:22 GMT, "Gary Owens"
wrote:

I've got two used ones, from a 93 and 94 ranger, with hoses, but I'm in
Florida.
gary

Got any of the smog stuff? 3.0 v6 on the 94 should be the same as
mine. With 387,000 on the original smog stuff..it needs changing out,
including the O2 sensors

Gunner


"Gunner" wrote in message
.. .
While on my way to LA this morning, the ##!!%&!!! plastic hydraulic
line from my clutch slave to the clutch master blew out. Nifty 3/16"
hole in the side of it. No idea why it did this.

Ok..so I manage to creep up to the nearest town, and buy a piece of
3/8 gas line, some clamps and brake fluid and cut the line, and
sleeved it.

Since the Mazda/Ranger pickups use a ******* master cylinder, the
only possible way to bleed one is to lift the floor mat, pull off the
starter override switch and pop the snap ring that holds the piston
inside. This I did. I gently pulled it upwards until I got a bit of
brake fluid tricking out, then replaced everything, refilled the
reservoir, and tried the clutch. This resulted in a stream of break
fluid spewing out of the end of the master cylinder. Taking it all
back apart again, I completely removed the piston, inspected the two
cup seals, back flushed with clean brake fluid..and reassembled. Still
blew brake fluid. At this point I was screwed, so starting it in
gear, I drove back down the Grapevine , and the 40 odd miles to my
home, with no clutch.

Going around to all of the parts houses..no one stocks a rebuild kit
for the master cylinder and they all want $90USD for a new complete
cylinder assembly.

WTF??????????????

Are rebuild kits no longer available? Like I really can afford to
spend $90 for two cup seals no bigger than .5" in diameter.

#$%!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Gunner

"There is no difference between communism and socialism, except
in the means of achieving the same ultimate end: communism
proposes to enslave men by force, socialism - by vote. It is
merely the difference between murder and suicide."
- Ayn Rand, from "Foreign Policy Drains U.S. of Main
Weapons"


"In my humble opinion, the petty carping levied against Bush by
the Democrats proves again, it is better to have your eye plucked
out by an eagle than to be nibbled to death by ducks." - Norman
Liebmann

On Wed, 11 Aug 2004 18:34:39 -0400, "Bob Chilcoat"
calmly ranted:

Shifting without the clutch on a tranny WITH syncros is a good way to end up
with a tranny WITHOUT syncros. Unless you are perfect every time, the
syncros will jam and produce major wear on the blocker rings.

It's really not hard, but you need to be
very gentle with your shifts. As the engine approaches the speed where it
will be when the gears are meshed, gently ease up against the syncro. When
the engine passes the right speed and the match is right, the syncro blocker
ring will let the collar pass, and it will drop in. Whatever you do, don't
force it in. That's a sure way to cause some damage.

I used to shift with my hand on the tunnel (easy on my
sister's MGB GT with my forefinger or thumb against the
base of the shifter) or with the tip of my little finger
on the shift knob (Corvair, where the floor was a long
way off) for effect. Knowing the sync speed was the key
to a keeping the shift force to about 2 ounces as it
slides right into gear.

To help sync non-sync first gears, shift into reverse before
first when you're at a complete stop. It prevents that CHINK
you hear so often in movies, where people grind gears. That
works with second gear on many boxes, also.


It helps to have driven a few crash boxes. The worst I ever had to drive
was a '42 Chevy school bus that had a box full of sliding gears. Not even
one constant mesh gear, except for top, which was straight through. Like a
whole tranmission of unsyncronized first gears. What a bitch to drive, but
it developed your skills.

Fun! ugh That's where you really learn to listen to RPM
and look at speed to know where to both upshift & downshift.


-- Friends Don't Let Friends Eat Turkey and Drive --

In article , Gunner says...

On Wed, 11 Aug 2004 18:22:38 -0400, "Bob Chilcoat"
wrote:

This is a trick I use to get cup seals back in without damage:

Get some thin string, preferably the least "fuzzy" you can find. Very fine
monofilament nylon is best. When you are ready to put the cup seal into the
cylinder (Master or Slave - both work) carefully wind the string
continuously in a single layer around the cup seal from the outside end to
the inside (open) end. This will compress the seal at the cupped open end
so that you can insert it easily into the cylinder. Use just enough tension
so that the seal is compressed to a smaller diameter than the ID of the
cylinder. Insert it only a short distance into the cylinder with the loose
far end of the string sticking out enough so that you can pull it out slowly
as you unwind it. As you unwind the string, simultaneously slide the cup
into the cylinder. When all the string is unwound, the seal should be all
the way into the cylinder, with no kinks or wrinkles. This really works.

Way cool! Thanks!

Another way is to use one mill thick brass shim stock. Cut a piece
that just fits inside the bore, when rolled up, and be sure to
de-burr the edges from shearing, using some 600 grit paper.

I roll that into a cylinder, and slip the cups into the part
sticking out of the bore. Sometimes I need to put a bit of
scotch tape on the seam of the brass to firm it up a bit.

Jim


--
==================================================
please reply to:
JRR(zero) at pkmfgvm4 (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com
==================================================

On Wed, 11 Aug 2004 18:22:38 -0400, "Bob Chilcoat"
wrote:

||This is a trick I use to get cup seals back in without damage:
||
||Get some thin string, preferably the least "fuzzy" you can find. Very fine
||monofilament nylon is best. When you are ready to put the cup seal into the
||cylinder (Master or Slave - both work) carefully wind the string
||continuously in a single layer around the cup seal from the outside end to
||the inside (open) end. This will compress the seal at the cupped open end
||so that you can insert it easily into the cylinder. Use just enough tension
||so that the seal is compressed to a smaller diameter than the ID of the
||cylinder. Insert it only a short distance into the cylinder with the loose
||far end of the string sticking out enough so that you can pull it out slowly
||as you unwind it. As you unwind the string, simultaneously slide the cup
||into the cylinder. When all the string is unwound, the seal should be all
||the way into the cylinder, with no kinks or wrinkles. This really works.

Hey, this is Metalworking!
Proper technique is to chuck a piece of rod stock into the lathe, and bore it to
a diameter slightly larger than the small end of the cup, and slightly smaller
than the bore of the MC. A through-hole need not be quite as big. Insert the
cup into the bore with about 1/6" sticking out (extra points for a step-bore to
facilitate this), apply to the MC, and poke it in with a rod from the backside
of your new tool.
Texas Parts Guy

In article , Don Bruder says...

Basic process:
I've got an upshift coming up. Pull the tranny out of gear. Allow engine
to wind down to approximately the right range (and this is almost always
a "practice until you figure it out for this particular car" concept).
Revs are about right? OK, try for the gear I'm wanting. Maybe need to
play with the throttle a little to match up more closely. Once I'm in
the new gear, mash or release the throttle as needed to achieve desired
ground speed. Done.

Downshifting is exactly the reverse: Pull it out of the gear you're in,
wind the engine up to the right revs (again, a "learn by practice"
thing) for the ground speed you're doing, then try for the gear you're
looking for, playing with the throttle as needed to get it to fall in.

The key concept involved is this:
At any given speed, in a specific gear, there is an engine RPM that
exactly matches the speed the input shaft of the transmission is
turning. You're looking for that engine speed. Once you find it on a
given vehicle, that's your shift point in and out of that gear. As long
as the ground speed and engine RPMs match, you'll be able to shift into
or out of that gear with either no grind at all, or only the tiniest bit
of grind.

Excellent discourse, one of the only ones I've ever seen. It also
explains the concept behind double clutching unless I'm mistaken.

Thanks.

Jim


--
==================================================
please reply to:
JRR(zero) at pkmfgvm4 (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com
==================================================

On Wed, 11 Aug 2004 18:34:39 -0400, "Bob Chilcoat"
wrote:

Shifting without the clutch on a tranny WITH syncros is a good way to end up
with a tranny WITHOUT syncros. Unless you are perfect every time, the
syncros will jam and produce major wear on the blocker rings.

OTOH, I've driven a few miles without a clutch several times in an
emergency. You want to be very careful. The last time was in traffic. I
tried a quick test to see if the engine would start in first. When I found
that it would (geared starter, light car), I just drove it to the garage in
stop and go traffic and had them put in a clutch cable (Honda Civic) to
replace the one that had snapped. It's really not hard, but you need to be
very gentle with your shifts. As the engine approaches the speed where it
will be when the gears are meshed, gently ease up against the syncro. When
the engine passes the right speed and the match is right, the syncro blocker
ring will let the collar pass, and it will drop in. Whatever you do, don't
force it in. That's a sure way to cause some damage.

It helps to have driven a few crash boxes. The worst I ever had to drive
was a '42 Chevy school bus that had a box full of sliding gears. Not even
one constant mesh gear, except for top, which was straight through. Like a
whole tranmission of unsyncronized first gears. What a bitch to drive, but
it developed your skills.

IF you've ever mastered a crashbox, with a clutch, shifting a syncro
without the clutch is a cinch. I drove a 1943 powerwagon for 2 years
(towtruck) and very seldom declutched to shift.
My Mini and Vauxhaul Firenza, 53 Dodge, 57 Fargo, 67 Peugot, and '49
VW shifted without benefit of the clutch most of the time.

In article ,
wrote:

On Wed, 11 Aug 2004 18:34:39 -0400, "Bob Chilcoat"
wrote:

Shifting without the clutch on a tranny WITH syncros is a good way to end up
with a tranny WITHOUT syncros. Unless you are perfect every time, the
syncros will jam and produce major wear on the blocker rings.

OTOH, I've driven a few miles without a clutch several times in an
emergency. You want to be very careful. The last time was in traffic. I
tried a quick test to see if the engine would start in first. When I found
that it would (geared starter, light car), I just drove it to the garage in
stop and go traffic and had them put in a clutch cable (Honda Civic) to
replace the one that had snapped. It's really not hard, but you need to be
very gentle with your shifts. As the engine approaches the speed where it
will be when the gears are meshed, gently ease up against the syncro. When
the engine passes the right speed and the match is right, the syncro blocker
ring will let the collar pass, and it will drop in. Whatever you do, don't
force it in. That's a sure way to cause some damage.

It helps to have driven a few crash boxes. The worst I ever had to drive
was a '42 Chevy school bus that had a box full of sliding gears. Not even
one constant mesh gear, except for top, which was straight through. Like a
whole tranmission of unsyncronized first gears. What a bitch to drive, but
it developed your skills.

IF you've ever mastered a crashbox, with a clutch, shifting a syncro
without the clutch is a cinch. I drove a 1943 powerwagon for 2 years
(towtruck) and very seldom declutched to shift.
My Mini and Vauxhaul Firenza, 53 Dodge, 57 Fargo, 67 Peugot, and '49
VW shifted without benefit of the clutch most of the time.

Does a late 1940s/early 1950s (nobody knows for sure on this particular
one - We THINK it's a 1952, but a few items on it seem to say that it
could be as early as a '47, and might be as late as a '55) Ferguson (Not
Massey-Ferguson, not Fordson - "straight" Ferguson - before either
Massey or Ford hooked up with Ferguson) tractor count as a "crashbox"?

I suspect it probably does - This critter is/was a serious case of
"double-clutch or forget about it" when it came to shifting time. Or
even better, "Stop completely, then shift".

Trying to shift it clutchless was a lot how I imagine grabbing the
business end of a running jackhammer would feel. First time I tried it
(accidentally - Foot was out of position, and when I mashed the clutch,
it jumped out from under the toe of my boot) my whole arm "buzzed" for
half an hour afterwards.

--
Don Bruder - - New Email policy in effect as of Feb. 21, 2004.
Short form: I'm trashing EVERY E-mail that doesn't contain a password in the
subject unless it comes from a "whitelisted" (pre-approved by me) address.
See http://www.sonic.net/~dakidd/main/contact.html for full details.

Gunner wrote in message . ..
On Tue, 10 Aug 2004 18:11:12 -0700, michael
wrote:

What year truck?

michael

1994 Mazda B3000.

Same as the Ford Ranger.

Gunner

"There is no difference between communism and socialism, except
in the means of achieving the same ultimate end: communism
proposes to enslave men by force, socialism - by vote. It is
merely the difference between murder and suicide."
- Ayn Rand, from "Foreign Policy Drains U.S. of Main
Weapons"


www.rockauto.com shows a rebuilt kit for $15 and change. The
interface is javascript so I can't post the url. Part number is
Wagner F122577. You can get to it by browsing Mazda - 1994 - b3000 -
Brake/wheel hub - Master Cyl repair kit

I haven't ordered from these guys yet, but I like their web interface.
I'm going to try ordering some stuff this winter.

Matt.

In article ,
(Matt) wrote:

Gunner wrote in message
. ..
On Tue, 10 Aug 2004 18:11:12 -0700, michael
wrote:

What year truck?

michael

1994 Mazda B3000.

Same as the Ford Ranger.

Gunner

"There is no difference between communism and socialism, except
in the means of achieving the same ultimate end: communism
proposes to enslave men by force, socialism - by vote. It is
merely the difference between murder and suicide."
- Ayn Rand, from "Foreign Policy Drains U.S. of Main
Weapons"


www.rockauto.com shows a rebuilt kit for $15 and change. The
interface is javascript so I can't post the url. Part number is
Wagner F122577. You can get to it by browsing Mazda - 1994 - b3000 -
Brake/wheel hub - Master Cyl repair kit

Haven't followed the link to see for sure, but something strikes me odd:
A brake kit isn't likely to do a lot of good for a clutch cylinder...

--
Don Bruder - - New Email policy in effect as of Feb. 21, 2004.
Short form: I'm trashing EVERY E-mail that doesn't contain a password in the
subject unless it comes from a "whitelisted" (pre-approved by me) address.
See http://www.sonic.net/~dakidd/main/contact.html for full details.

It wouldnt be so bad, as the truck has 337,000 miles on it, but I put
a new master cylinder on it less than a year ago when the $%#@!!!!
slave cylinder went into meltdown. That ******* wraps around the pilot
shaft INSIDE the bell housing and carries the throw out bearing. So to
replace it, you have to drop the tranny. And its nearly all plastic
and when it goes into melt down..it really does melt down.
Gunner,
Short story - helped my nephew replace the slave on his 94 Ranger -
(Yeah, inside the bell housing), so dropped driveshaft, crossmember,
exhaust, transfer case, tranny and bell housing - Got his "new" one
out of the box - it looked about the same, but was made out of metal
instead of plastic, otherwise about the same - and I was glad to see
they changed it to a metal case... installed, reassembled everything,
got ready to connect the line (one of those special pop-on connectors)
and it wouldn't fit - no way, no how.... Parts shop said bring it
back - tore everything apart again, returned original out of the truck
and the one he bought - here someone, someplace, put the wrong slave
in the box with his correct part number on it. Parts guy pulled
another off the shelf and it was plastic like the OEM part....
reinstalled AGAIN, and this time the connector fit (like we didn't try
that before installing it, hee hee )..... Anyway - helluva job made
worse by some jokester or dumbass somewhere... sigh
Ken.



I figured that it was time to replace everything clutch related, so I
did.

Gunner


"There is no difference between communism and socialism, except
in the means of achieving the same ultimate end: communism
proposes to enslave men by force, socialism - by vote. It is
merely the difference between murder and suicide."
- Ayn Rand, from "Foreign Policy Drains U.S. of Main
Weapons"

On Thu, 12 Aug 2004 22:45:56 GMT, Don Bruder wrote:

In article ,
(Matt) wrote:

Gunner wrote in message
. ..
On Tue, 10 Aug 2004 18:11:12 -0700, michael
wrote:

What year truck?

michael

1994 Mazda B3000.

Same as the Ford Ranger.

Gunner

"There is no difference between communism and socialism, except
in the means of achieving the same ultimate end: communism
proposes to enslave men by force, socialism - by vote. It is
merely the difference between murder and suicide."
- Ayn Rand, from "Foreign Policy Drains U.S. of Main
Weapons"


www.rockauto.com shows a rebuilt kit for $15 and change. The
interface is javascript so I can't post the url. Part number is
Wagner F122577. You can get to it by browsing Mazda - 1994 - b3000 -
Brake/wheel hub - Master Cyl repair kit

Haven't followed the link to see for sure, but something strikes me odd:
A brake kit isn't likely to do a lot of good for a clutch cylinder...

Ayup. And I dont think Ive ever seen cup seals .5 in diameter.

Gunner

"In my humble opinion, the petty carping levied against Bush by
the Democrats proves again, it is better to have your eye plucked
out by an eagle than to be nibbled to death by ducks." - Norman
Liebmann

On Fri, 13 Aug 2004 01:40:48 GMT, (Ken
Sterling) wrote:


It wouldnt be so bad, as the truck has 337,000 miles on it, but I put
a new master cylinder on it less than a year ago when the $%#@!!!!
slave cylinder went into meltdown. That ******* wraps around the pilot
shaft INSIDE the bell housing and carries the throw out bearing. So to
replace it, you have to drop the tranny. And its nearly all plastic
and when it goes into melt down..it really does melt down.
Gunner,
Short story - helped my nephew replace the slave on his 94 Ranger -
(Yeah, inside the bell housing), so dropped driveshaft, crossmember,
exhaust, transfer case, tranny and bell housing - Got his "new" one
out of the box - it looked about the same, but was made out of metal
instead of plastic, otherwise about the same - and I was glad to see
they changed it to a metal case... installed, reassembled everything,
got ready to connect the line (one of those special pop-on connectors)
and it wouldn't fit - no way, no how.... Parts shop said bring it
back - tore everything apart again, returned original out of the truck
and the one he bought - here someone, someplace, put the wrong slave
in the box with his correct part number on it. Parts guy pulled
another off the shelf and it was plastic like the OEM part....
reinstalled AGAIN, and this time the connector fit (like we didn't try
that before installing it, hee hee )..... Anyway - helluva job made
worse by some jokester or dumbass somewhere... sigh
Ken.


Yup. I changed mine out on the burning concrete in front of my RV
while up on jackstands and by myself. Lots of fun wrastlin that
tranny up in place and getting it stabbed with the CAT rubbing the end
of a fellas nose.

How did you bleed the clutch master cylinder?

Gunner



I figured that it was time to replace everything clutch related, so I
did.

Gunner


"There is no difference between communism and socialism, except
in the means of achieving the same ultimate end: communism
proposes to enslave men by force, socialism - by vote. It is
merely the difference between murder and suicide."
- Ayn Rand, from "Foreign Policy Drains U.S. of Main
Weapons"

"In my humble opinion, the petty carping levied against Bush by
the Democrats proves again, it is better to have your eye plucked
out by an eagle than to be nibbled to death by ducks." - Norman
Liebmann

In article ,
Gunner wrote:

Haven't followed the link to see for sure, but something strikes me odd:
A brake kit isn't likely to do a lot of good for a clutch cylinder...

Ayup. And I dont think Ive ever seen cup seals .5 in diameter.

If by .5, you mean .5 inch, I've got a stack of four of them sitting
here on teh corner of the computer, waiting for me to figure out a
better place to park 'em.

If you're talking any other unit than inches, then I gott go "Idunno..."

--
Don Bruder - - New Email policy in effect as of Feb. 21, 2004.
Short form: I'm trashing EVERY E-mail that doesn't contain a password in the
subject unless it comes from a "whitelisted" (pre-approved by me) address.
See http://www.sonic.net/~dakidd/main/contact.html for full details.

On Fri, 13 Aug 2004 06:02:51 GMT, Don Bruder wrote:

In article ,
Gunner wrote:

Haven't followed the link to see for sure, but something strikes me odd:
A brake kit isn't likely to do a lot of good for a clutch cylinder...

Ayup. And I dont think Ive ever seen cup seals .5 in diameter.

If by .5, you mean .5 inch, I've got a stack of four of them sitting
here on teh corner of the computer, waiting for me to figure out a
better place to park 'em.

If you're talking any other unit than inches, then I gott go "Idunno..."

I was trying to say brake cup seals .5" in diameter. Brain fart on my
part. G

Gunner

"In my humble opinion, the petty carping levied against Bush by
the Democrats proves again, it is better to have your eye plucked
out by an eagle than to be nibbled to death by ducks." - Norman
Liebmann