Our car is stop-start, it hasn't performed this 'feature' for many
months. I believe this to be a symptom of the battery not being at it's
best.

It was clicking the other day rather than cranking the engine over,
worked OK upon retrying. Taken it for a couple of decent runs since
(because it's been largely short runs all year, due to the obvious),
it's been OK.

I happened to have a meter in my hand today so checked it and it's
reading 12.1v which is quite low. Battery life generally being 4-6 years
and us having had the car 4.5 years i'm thinking shall I just replace it?

Advice is to trickle charge it first but I haven't a charger and I don't
want to buy a charger *and* a battery.

On Mon, 14 Dec 2020 13:04:50 +0000, R D S wrote:

Our car is stop-start, it hasn't performed this 'feature' for many
months. I believe this to be a symptom of the battery not being at it's
best.

It was clicking the other day rather than cranking the engine over,
worked OK upon retrying. Taken it for a couple of decent runs since
(because it's been largely short runs all year, due to the obvious),
it's been OK.

I happened to have a meter in my hand today so checked it and it's
reading 12.1v which is quite low. Battery life generally being 4-6 years
and us having had the car 4.5 years i'm thinking shall I just replace it?

Advice is to trickle charge it first but I haven't a charger and I don't
want to buy a charger *and* a battery.

If you'd been using a charger likely you wouldn't be needing a
replacement battery.

--
AnthonyL

Why ever wait to finish a job before starting the next?

On Monday, 14 December 2020 at 13:15:42 UTC, AnthonyL wrote:
On Mon, 14 Dec 2020 13:04:50 +0000, R D S wrote:

I happened to have a meter in my hand today so checked it and it's
reading 12.1v which is quite low. Battery life generally being 4-6 years
and us having had the car 4.5 years i'm thinking shall I just replace it?

Probably one cell is shorted, so all the others will be getting overcharged
and the battery will die completely soon (when you most need it).

John

On 14/12/2020 13:04, R D S wrote:
Our car is stop-start, it hasn't performed this 'feature' for many
months. I believe this to be a symptom of the battery not being at it's
best.

It was clicking the other day rather than cranking the engine over,
worked OK upon retrying. Taken it for a couple of decent runs since
(because it's been largely short runs all year, due to the obvious),
it's been OK.

I happened to have a meter in my hand today so checked it and it's
reading 12.1v which is quite low. Battery life generally being 4-6 years
and us having had the car 4.5 years i'm thinking shall I just replace it?

Advice is to trickle charge it first but I haven't a charger and I don't
want to buy a charger *and* a battery.

Do you not know anyone with a battery charger you could borrow for a few
hours? Recharging it at least once to see how long it lasts might be
worth it. Driving in the dark on headlights for short journeys can take
out more from the battery than the alternator is able to put back in.

The battery might just be OK but your usage profile has shagged it. It
might respond to a bit of TLC if it hasn't been left like that too long.

Several neighbours have had cars that wouldn't start after lockdown
ended because they didn't think to put them on charge or allow the
engine to run for a while.

--
Regards,
Martin Brown

On 14/12/2020 13:21, Martin Brown wrote:

The battery might just be OK but your usage profile has shagged it. It
might respond to a bit of TLC if it hasn't been left like that too long.


It would normally get a decent run often enough, even during lockdown,
but in months of late i've had a load of DIY tasks flitting between 3
places all within a couple of miles of each other. Lights, wipers,
heated seats etc. It's occurred to me too that i've used it inappropriately.

I had a charger (Lidl smart charger) but it packed in.

We're going away for a week shortly (if our masters permit).
Management has 'suggested' I change the battery so I don't want us stuck
in the arse end of nowhere waiting for RAC. It would be worth the cost
to not have that conversation.

On 14/12/2020 13:15, AnthonyL wrote:

Advice is to trickle charge it first but I haven't a charger and I don't
want to buy a charger *and* a battery.

If you'd been using a charger likely you wouldn't be needing a
replacement battery.

Yeah.
Having thought about, if my usage pattern stays the same I am going to
need a charger so if anyone has any recommendations....

On Mon, 14 Dec 2020 13:04:50 +0000, R D S wrote:

snip

Advice is to trickle charge it first but I haven't a charger and I don't
want to buy a charger *and* a battery.

I would think that 'most people' that own a car would also agree you
should own things like a foot pump and a battery charger 'anyway', and
given how cheap (and compact) a perfectly useable one is from the
likes of Aldi / Lidl, and how foolproof they are to use, might be
considered one of those things every car / motorcycle owner should
have?

I guess if you only have one car, can't get mains anywhere near your
car or get the battery out your car (and some are easier than others)
or be elderly / non technical then I guess it may not be worth buying
a charger if you don't already have one, for yourself now (but others
might be able to get you out of trouble with it). [1]

I would also second the advice you have in that if I was to buy a new
battery I would still want to put it on a full / overnight charge
before fitting it. [2]?

Cheers, T i m

[1] A new neighbour knocked one day to ask if I had a battery charger
and if she could borrow it. I leant it to her (she used it herself)
and gave it back later that day. A week later she asked to borrow it
again ... ? [3]


[2] A mate has a fairly sophisticated battery tester that quickly
gives capacity, cold cranking amps and internal resistance etc.

Needing a new battery he took said gadget to the local car parts
supplier and they presented him with a suitable battery. He tested it
in front of them and it fell well below all the marked values. The
shop suggested 'it just needed a good charge' but mate wasn't
convinced, so left without.

He ordered one online (for a lot less) that he tested on arrival and
it was on / above it's marked spec. ;-)

[3] A mate just bought a new (to him) car and all the upholstery was
filthy. He cleaned it all with his machine but that leaves it fairly
damp. No issue in the summer as you can leave the windows open etc,
not so good in the winter and rain. As he can get the car on his own
front and has an external socket I offered to lend him a dehumidifier
which he accepted and was amazed how much water it was able to extract
in a day! He was so impressed (and with the idea that our daughter
uses one for clothes dying in her flat), he bought one himself for
doing things like car upholstery cleaning and trying to use the tumble
dryer less. ;-)

On 14/12/2020 13:52, R D S wrote:
On 14/12/2020 13:21, Martin Brown wrote:

The battery might just be OK but your usage profile has shagged it. It
might respond to a bit of TLC if it hasn't been left like that too long.


It would normally get a decent run often enough, even during lockdown,
but in months of late i've had a load of DIY tasks flitting between 3
places all within a couple of miles of each other. Lights, wipers,
heated seats etc. It's occurred to me too that i've used it
inappropriately.

I had a charger (Lidl smart charger) but it packed in.

We're going away for a week shortly (if our masters permit).
Management has 'suggested' I change the battery so I don't want us stuck
in the arse end of nowhere waiting for RAC. It would be worth the cost
to not have that conversation.

And a battery from the RAC would cost a lot more than one from Tayna etc

--
Robin
reply-to address is (intended to be) valid

On Mon, 14 Dec 2020 13:52:19 +0000, R D S wrote:

We're going away for a week shortly (if our masters permit).
Management has 'suggested' I change the battery so I don't want us stuck
in the arse end of nowhere waiting for RAC. It would be worth the cost
to not have that conversation.

I was going to say get a charger and see how it goes. But that last
sentance changes things completely, get a new battery. May even be
able to hang getting a new charger on that hook "as if I'd had
acharger I could have kept the old bettery in better condition".
Trouble is the answer to that is "so why didn't you get a charger for
£20 instead of wasteing £90 on a new battery that you shouldn't have
needed"...

--
Cheers
Dave.

On Mon, 14 Dec 2020 13:59:01 +0000, R D S wrote:

On 14/12/2020 13:15, AnthonyL wrote:

Advice is to trickle charge it first but I haven't a charger and I don't
want to buy a charger *and* a battery.

If you'd been using a charger likely you wouldn't be needing a
replacement battery.

Yeah.
Having thought about, if my usage pattern stays the same I am going to
need a charger so if anyone has any recommendations....

I think it depends if you have the opportunity to keep it hooked up
all the time (maintenance charge) or would only be able to run it for
a short time in which case you might need something with a higher
charge output?

As a compromise, daughters diesel Transit Connect has had a Lidl
'Intelligent charger on it for a good few months now and every time we
have tried starting it, it's been on the button.

Personally I'm fond of the Optimate range of chargers (as they don't
need a button pressed like the Ctek / clones often do) but they aren't
cheap and would really only maintain a big car battery. The highest
output one I have is only 4A so potentially not enough if you have a
really low battery and a short charging time.

https://www.optimate.co.uk/products?tag=12V%20Chargers

https://www.ctek.com/uk/products/car

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Best-Seller...tive/303655031

Cheers, T i m

On 14/12/2020 13:52, R D S wrote:
On 14/12/2020 13:21, Martin Brown wrote:

The battery might just be OK but your usage profile has shagged it. It
might respond to a bit of TLC if it hasn't been left like that too long.

We're going away for a week shortly (if our masters permit).
Management has 'suggested' I change the battery so I don't want us stuck
in the arse end of nowhere waiting for RAC. It would be worth the cost
to not have that conversation.

Right. Best get another battery then and hope you can find the reset
code for the car radio after making the swap.

I leave my least used car with a solar powered trickle charger plugged
into the cigarette lighter. It helps in summer but is useless in winter.
Reminds me I ought to give it a top up charge next decent dry day.

--
Regards,
Martin Brown

On 14/12/2020 13:59, R D S wrote:
On 14/12/2020 13:15, AnthonyL wrote:

Advice is to trickle charge it first but I haven't a charger and I don't
want to buy a charger *and* a battery.

If you'd been using a charger likely you wouldn't be needing a
replacement battery.

Yeah.
Having thought about, if my usage pattern stays the same I am going to
need a charger so if anyone has any recommendations....

I can't help but want one of these,

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_f...54008&_sacat=0

On 14/12/2020 13:04, R D S wrote:
I happened to have a meter in my hand today so checked it and it's
reading 12.1v which is quite low. Battery life generally being 4-6 years
and us having had the car 4.5 years i'm thinking shall I just replace it?

You what??

I've changed the battery on my car. I might possibly have changed it
twice, but I don't think I have.

It was new in 2000.

OTOH it's not stop-start.

Andy

On Mon, 14 Dec 2020 14:46:57 +0000, R D S wrote:

On 14/12/2020 13:59, R D S wrote:
On 14/12/2020 13:15, AnthonyL wrote:

Advice is to trickle charge it first but I haven't a charger and I don't
want to buy a charger *and* a battery.

If you'd been using a charger likely you wouldn't be needing a
replacement battery.

Yeah.
Having thought about, if my usage pattern stays the same I am going to
need a charger so if anyone has any recommendations....

I can't help but want one of these,

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_f...54008&_sacat=0

I wouldn't (it's 'Ring').

If you were spending that sort of money I'd get:

https://www.ctek.com/uk/products/car/mxs-5-0-uk

But they also do one especially for cars with 'Stop / start':
https://www.ctek.com/uk/products/car/ct5-start-stop-uk

Cheers, T i m

On Mon, 14 Dec 2020 14:46:32 +0000, Martin Brown
wrote:

snip

I leave my least used car with a solar powered trickle charger plugged
into the cigarette lighter.

I do the same (except connected directly to the battery).

It helps in summer but is useless in winter.

Hmm, I guess how much it could 'help' is a function of the capacity of
the panel, it's orientation to the sun and the parasitic drain on the
battery?

eg, I can generally leave the kitcar un-started for at least 3 months
and it will restart ok. Adding the solar panel means that even a short
burst of bright light on any day (or week) will generally offset any
losses.

Reminds me I ought to give it a top up charge next decent dry day.

I have to run a mains-lead across the pavement to do that but with the
end of the extension lead and charger under the bonnet and some rubber
mat over the cable, hasn't been an issue so far.

Cheers, T i m

On 14/12/2020 13:04:50, R D S wrote:
Our car is stop-start, it hasn't performed this 'feature' for many
months. I believe this to be a symptom of the battery not being at it's
best.

It was clicking the other day rather than cranking the engine over,
worked OK upon retrying.

Which is a strange behaviour of a battery and more likely a bad
connection or faulty starter. Especially if more of a "clonk" than a
'click'.

Taken it for a couple of decent runs since
(because it's been largely short runs all year, due to the obvious),
it's been OK.

I happened to have a meter in my hand today so checked it and it's
reading 12.1v which is quite low. Battery life generally being 4-6 years
and us having had the car 4.5 years i'm thinking shall I just replace it?

What is the voltage with the engine running. 12.1V is what I would
expect when the battery has been rested for a while powering the normal
load with the ignition off.

Advice is to trickle charge it first but I haven't a charger and I don't
want to buy a charger *and* a battery.

A charger is always worthwhile having in your toolbox.

In article ,
R D S wrote:
Our car is stop-start, it hasn't performed this 'feature' for many
months. I believe this to be a symptom of the battery not being at it's
best.

It was clicking the other day rather than cranking the engine over,
worked OK upon retrying. Taken it for a couple of decent runs since
(because it's been largely short runs all year, due to the obvious),
it's been OK.

I happened to have a meter in my hand today so checked it and it's
reading 12.1v which is quite low. Battery life generally being 4-6 years
and us having had the car 4.5 years i'm thinking shall I just replace it?

Advice is to trickle charge it first but I haven't a charger and I don't
want to buy a charger *and* a battery.

The voltage of a lead acid isn't a reliable guide. You need to perform a
high current test. But if the battery is fully charged and struggles to
turn the engine that is a form of high current test - assuming the starter
etc is OK.

Look out for the Lidl charger at about £14. It is very good and small to
store - it will easily fit the glovebox. It is powerful enough to charge a
flat battery overnight, and can also provide a maintenance charge to keep
a battery topped up.

--
*Any connection between your reality and mine is purely coincidental

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
R D S wrote:
I had a charger (Lidl smart charger) but it packed in.

Almost certainly the switch. Costs pennies to replace. The far more
expensive Ctek it is similar too breaks in the same way - just fixed one.

--
*Cleaned by Stevie Wonder, checked by David Blunkett*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"R D S" wrote in message
...

I had a charger (Lidl smart charger) but it packed in.

If you still have it there is a known fault with that charger that is
(relatively) easy to repair

-

On 14/12/2020 13:04, R D S wrote:
Our car is stop-start, it hasn't performed this 'feature' for many
months. I believe this to be a symptom of the battery not being at it's
best.

It was clicking the other day rather than cranking the engine over,
worked OK upon retrying. Taken it for a couple of decent runs since
(because it's been largely short runs all year, due to the obvious),
it's been OK.

I happened to have a meter in my hand today so checked it and it's
reading 12.1v which is quite low. Battery life generally being 4-6 years
and us having had the car 4.5 years i'm thinking shall I just replace it?

Advice is to trickle charge it first but I haven't a charger and I don't
want to buy a charger *and* a battery.

I use a cheapish (£40 or so) Optimate bike maintenance charger on my
wifes Fiesta "stop-start". Works a treat. It only puts out 0.22A (220mA)
max, but that's enough to keep it topped up and keep the dreaded "Low
Battery Voltage" (or similar) warning off the dash. Alas due to the
dreaded C-word its not driven very often.
If you use one connect the positive to the battery terminal but the
negative to the vehicle chassis not the battery terminal.
Why? Most modern cars have a charge current detector/sensor on the
negative terminal. That way the cars ECU knows the battery is being
charged and its state of charge.
With 220mA max current it can be left connected whenever the car is not
in use. Just hang a label over the steering wheel to remind the driver
its there and must be disconnected not dragged down the road. :-)


--
Ask how to email me.

On Monday, 14 December 2020 at 17:52:10 UTC, Kellerman wrote:

With 220mA max current it can be left connected whenever the car is not
in use. Just hang a label over the steering wheel to remind the driver
its there and must be disconnected not dragged down the road. :-)

Some cars have a charging connector in the boot which has an ignition
interlock to prevent the car from being driven away while the charger
is plugged into the car.

John

Well short of sticking it under a pyramid and donning a tin foil hat and
chanting an ancient Flemish magic spell, you may need to.
Sounds like one cell might be dodgy to me.
Brian

--

This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please
Note this Signature is meaningless.!
"R D S" wrote in message
...
Our car is stop-start, it hasn't performed this 'feature' for many months.
I believe this to be a symptom of the battery not being at it's best.

It was clicking the other day rather than cranking the engine over, worked
OK upon retrying. Taken it for a couple of decent runs since (because it's
been largely short runs all year, due to the obvious), it's been OK.

I happened to have a meter in my hand today so checked it and it's reading
12.1v which is quite low. Battery life generally being 4-6 years and us
having had the car 4.5 years i'm thinking shall I just replace it?

Advice is to trickle charge it first but I haven't a charger and I don't
want to buy a charger *and* a battery.

Martin Brown wrote:
On 14/12/2020 13:52, R D S wrote:
On 14/12/2020 13:21, Martin Brown wrote:

The battery might just be OK but your usage profile has shagged it. It
might respond to a bit of TLC if it hasn't been left like that too long.

We're going away for a week shortly (if our masters permit).
Management has 'suggested' I change the battery so I don't want us stuck
in the arse end of nowhere waiting for RAC. It would be worth the cost
to not have that conversation.

Right. Best get another battery then and hope you can find the reset
code for the car radio after making the swap.


Not just the radio to consider on some vehicles with stop start, the
condition of the battery and its charging is monitored by the electronics
as the battery ages which is why the stop start ceases to function when the
battery has deteriorated to a point that complete failure is imminent.
To get the best out of it the new battery has to be registered with the
vehicle which dealers and other garages who can do so charge a fair sum
for. This is rarely mentioned when the stop start systems are promoted as
money savers by less use of fuel, the main beneficiaries of such systems
could be the car makers as it helps lower emission figures.
Some people who do a lot of car maintenance may have the tools and software
so could do it
but if the OP doesnt know anyone then buying that is also a cost.

GH

I'm always surprised by the fact that the cost of a trickle charger if added
to the cost of a car when new is peanuts why not just include it and give
you a long mains cable to plug it in. You could build a charger for about a
tenner from rescued bits.
Brian

--

This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please
Note this Signature is meaningless.!
"AnthonyL" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 14 Dec 2020 13:04:50 +0000, R D S wrote:

Our car is stop-start, it hasn't performed this 'feature' for many
months. I believe this to be a symptom of the battery not being at it's
best.

It was clicking the other day rather than cranking the engine over,
worked OK upon retrying. Taken it for a couple of decent runs since
(because it's been largely short runs all year, due to the obvious),
it's been OK.

I happened to have a meter in my hand today so checked it and it's
reading 12.1v which is quite low. Battery life generally being 4-6 years
and us having had the car 4.5 years i'm thinking shall I just replace it?

Advice is to trickle charge it first but I haven't a charger and I don't
want to buy a charger *and* a battery.

If you'd been using a charger likely you wouldn't be needing a
replacement battery.

--
AnthonyL

Why ever wait to finish a job before starting the next?

Marland wrote:

on some vehicles with stop start, the condition of the battery and
its charging is monitored by the electronics as the battery ages
which is why the stop start ceases to function when the battery has
deteriorated to a point that complete failure is imminent. To get the
best out of it the new battery has to be registered with the vehicle

My car is stop/start (I'm just about used to its foibles after a couple
of years)

The stop/start won't operate until the engine oil is up to temperature
(so less viscous) and the strain on the belt alternator/starter is lower.

It also won't operate when there's a very high load from all the
auxiliaries (aircon, heated seats, etc)

It does have a higher capacity battery than the equivalent
non-stop/start car, but it's not a *special* battery that would need to
be registered to the car.

On 14/12/2020 13:52, R D S wrote:
On 14/12/2020 13:21, Martin Brown wrote:

The battery might just be OK but your usage profile has shagged it. It
might respond to a bit of TLC if it hasn't been left like that too long.


It would normally get a decent run often enough, even during lockdown,
but in months of late i've had a load of DIY tasks flitting between 3
places all within a couple of miles of each other. Lights, wipers,
heated seats etc. It's occurred to me too that i've used it
inappropriately.

I had a charger (Lidl smart charger) but it packed in.

We're going away for a week shortly (if our masters permit).
Management has 'suggested' I change the battery so I don't want us stuck
in the arse end of nowhere waiting for RAC. It would be worth the cost
to not have that conversation.

During the first lockdown my car usage was minimal but going to the
supermarket I gave my car at least a 15 minute run with AC on so it
didn't dry out and to get the engine up to temperature. During this time
the start/stop facility didn't work.

After the first lock-down it took a run of around 40 miles at around
50/70mph before the stop/start facility kicked in again.

I believe that stop/start is inhibited not only on low battery charge
but also on the outside temperature being too high or too low, low
engine temperature, heater and AC usage, heated windscreen usage, and
maybe time since engine start.

--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

In article ,
Kellerman wrote:
If you use one connect the positive to the battery terminal but the
negative to the vehicle chassis not the battery terminal.
Why? Most modern cars have a charge current detector/sensor on the
negative terminal. That way the cars ECU knows the battery is being
charged and its state of charge.

Can you run that by me again? Are you saying if you disconnected the
battery and connected the charger to it, it wouldn't charge?

--
*24 hours in a day ... 24 beers in a case ... coincidence? *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 14/12/2020 17:58, John Walliker wrote:
On Monday, 14 December 2020 at 17:52:10 UTC, Kellerman wrote:

With 220mA max current it can be left connected whenever the car is not
in use. Just hang a label over the steering wheel to remind the driver
its there and must be disconnected not dragged down the road. :-)

Some cars have a charging connector in the boot which has an ignition
interlock to prevent the car from being driven away while the charger
is plugged into the car.

Some but by no means all can be charged from the cigarette lighter
socket. Many modern cars disable it when asleep though. Older ones OK.

I charge my car battery old school with croc clips on the terminals.
Nice big fat spark jumps when I make contact. Initial current to a flat
battery about 8A falling to a steady 6A as the terminal voltage rises.

--
Regards,
Martin Brown

On Mon, 14 Dec 2020 20:41:30 +0000, alan_m wrote:

I believe that stop/start is inhibited not only on low battery charge
but also on the outside temperature being too high or too low, low
engine temperature, heater and AC usage, heated windscreen usage, and
maybe time since engine start.

The stop/start on mine doesn't operate if the air temp is much below
7 C (which at this time of year around here is most of the time). It
doesn't operate until the engine is up to proper operating
temperature, needs to have been driven for 10+ mins. I think it'll
stop the engine regardless of load, even if that means it starts
automatically 10 seconds later. In move tend yards stop, few seconds,
move ten yards stop, few seconds, move ten yards stop, few seconds
traffic it'll stop the engine at every stop, assuming that engine
temp and air temp allow. For the latter situation it does have a
manual off switch, that defaults to on after switching the engine
off.

--
Cheers
Dave.

In message , T i m
writes




[1] A new neighbour knocked one day to ask if I had a battery charger
and if she could borrow it. I leant it to her (she used it herself)
and gave it back later that day. A week later she asked to borrow it
again ... ? [3]

No '?' about it! She's obviously after your body.





--
Ian

In article ,
Martin Brown wrote:
I charge my car battery old school with croc clips on the terminals.
Nice big fat spark jumps when I make contact. Initial current to a flat
battery about 8A falling to a steady 6A as the terminal voltage rises.

Are you doing this with an old style charger switched on?

I've got several assorted chargers here. None spark when connected to the
battery. That's more what you get when jump starting from a vehicle which
has the engine running.

--
*Wrinkled was not one of the things I wanted to be when I grew up

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article l.net,
Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Mon, 14 Dec 2020 20:41:30 +0000, alan_m wrote:

I believe that stop/start is inhibited not only on low battery charge
but also on the outside temperature being too high or too low, low
engine temperature, heater and AC usage, heated windscreen usage, and
maybe time since engine start.

The stop/start on mine doesn't operate if the air temp is much below
7 C (which at this time of year around here is most of the time). It
doesn't operate until the engine is up to proper operating
temperature, needs to have been driven for 10+ mins. I think it'll
stop the engine regardless of load, even if that means it starts
automatically 10 seconds later. In move tend yards stop, few seconds,
move ten yards stop, few seconds, move ten yards stop, few seconds
traffic it'll stop the engine at every stop, assuming that engine
temp and air temp allow. For the latter situation it does have a
manual off switch, that defaults to on after switching the engine
off.

I've not had a stop start vehicle, but my brother has. He says he can't
work out when it's going to work or not. Think I'd like a warning light
when it is in operation. He can disable it, but it reverts to on at the
next switch on.

--
*The man who fell into an upholstery machine is fully recovered*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 14/12/2020 20:23, Andy Burns wrote:

Marland wrote:

on some vehicles with stop start, the condition of the battery and its
charging is monitoredÂ* by the electronics as the battery ages which is
why the stop start ceases to function when the battery has
deteriorated to a point that complete failure is imminent. To get the
best out of it the new battery has to be registered with the vehicle

My car is stop/start (I'm just about used to its foibles after a couple
of years)

The stop/start won't operate until the engine oil is up to temperature
(so less viscous) and the strain on the belt alternator/starter is lower.

It also won't operate when there's a very high load from all the
auxiliaries (aircon, heated seats, etc)

It does have a higher capacity battery than the equivalent
non-stop/start car, but it's not a *special* battery that would need to
be registered to the car.

Make/model ?? Just curious.

On Tue, 15 Dec 2020 10:01:38 +0000, Ian Jackson
wrote:

In message , T i m
writes




[1] A new neighbour knocked one day to ask if I had a battery charger
and if she could borrow it. I leant it to her (she used it herself)
and gave it back later that day. A week later she asked to borrow it
again ... ? [3]

No '?' about it! She's obviously after your body.


Erm, whilst I guess it's not impossible (she was single at the time)
.... she still really needs to get her own battery charger. ;-)

She's actually a very nice lady but obviously doesn't really have any
interest in cars, judging how she seems to abandon hers, rather than
actually parking it.

Cheers, T i m

On Tue, 15 Dec 2020 10:24:22 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

snip

I've not had a stop start vehicle, but my brother has. He says he can't
work out when it's going to work or not. Think I'd like a warning light
when it is in operation. He can disable it, but it reverts to on at the
next switch on.

Shirly if you come to a momentary halt and the engine stops, that
could (would?) create more pollution (stopping and starting any mass
needs to overcome inertia, linear or rotary) than just allowing it to
run a few more revs and not stop?

If it does, then there would be a finite time that an engine would
need to stop for before it actually made it cleaner ... and it's
possible that could be linked into a realtime GPS / traffic monitoring
system that allowed the car to know if you had stopped at traffic
lights (and how long they had on red on that cycle) or just in slow
moving traffic?

I think it *is* a good idea if all engines are cut off if left idling
for say 5 mins or more (unless in 'engineering mode') to stop all
those who park up, leave their headlights on and sit there talking /
eating for 20 mins with the engine running. ;-(

Something I come across surprisingly often when out walking the dog.

Cheers, T i m

Andrew wrote:

Andy Burns wrote:

My car is stop/start

Make/model ?? Just curious.

Audi A5

On 15/12/2020 08:46, Martin Brown wrote:
Some but by no means all can be charged from the cigarette lighter
socket. Many modern cars disable it when asleep though. Older ones OK.

I think my 20yo last-of-the-model car probably counts as older.

Lighter socket is linked to the ignition, which is handy as it means my
satnav powers off when parked.

Andy

On 15/12/2020 10:59, T i m wrote:

If it does, then there would be a finite time that an engine would
need to stop for before it actually made it cleaner

I looked into this once, I can't remember exactly but it was a
surprisingly short length of time.

On 15/12/2020 10:22, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Martin Brown wrote:
I charge my car battery old school with croc clips on the terminals.
Nice big fat spark jumps when I make contact. Initial current to a flat
battery about 8A falling to a steady 6A as the terminal voltage rises.

Are you doing this with an old style charger switched on?

Yes. Its the simplest way to check it is still working. It can source 3A
or 6A at either 12v or 6v depending on its switch settings.

I've got several assorted chargers here. None spark when connected to the
battery. That's more what you get when jump starting from a vehicle which
has the engine running.

The initial state will be a 27v no load DC connected to 12v for a moment
and a lot of current flows. Enough to make a nice fat spark.

The meter on the thing is unresponsive so the spark is the best
indication I have that it is working. It is way too old to have any kind
of indicator LED - just has a little worn out ammeter.

--
Regards,
Martin Brown

In article ,
T i m wrote:
I think it *is* a good idea if all engines are cut off if left idling
for say 5 mins or more (unless in 'engineering mode') to stop all
those who park up, leave their headlights on and sit there talking /
eating for 20 mins with the engine running. ;-(

My local medium sized Tesco has a decent sized car park. And not busy
during the day week times. Why I use it - in better times.
As such it is popular with van drivers to have their lunch in - a meal
deal from the store, etc.
And they near all have their engines running. Perhaps understandable if
cold for the heater. But this happens at all times of the year.

Of course the majority don't pay for the fuel used. But I still don't
understand why you'd want a noisy diesel idling while you eat your lunch.

--
*Why is it that rain drops but snow falls?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.