My 1920s house is L-shaped and because of its geometry the Wifi signal
has to go outside and then back in to get to my study where all my
computers and cool stuff are.

The signal is effectively non-existent in the study so I used an old
router to extend the signal. Still no joy unless I put the extender in
the study.

I'm forming the opinion that a metal foil moisture barrier is blocking
the signal though I have no evidence that there is one. The rest of the
house is fine.

Is this likely? Any suggestions?

Another Dave
--
Change nospam to techie

On Mon, 22 Jan 2018 16:16:15 +0000, Another Dave
wrote:

My 1920s house is L-shaped and because of its geometry the Wifi signal
has to go outside and then back in to get to my study where all my
computers and cool stuff are.

The signal is effectively non-existent in the study so I used an old
router to extend the signal. Still no joy unless I put the extender in
the study.

A mate built a study in the back half of the garage / kitchen using
foil backed plasterboard and it acted like a Faraday cage. With an AP
in the room there was nearly no signal detected outside of it.

I'm forming the opinion that a metal foil moisture barrier is blocking
the signal though I have no evidence that there is one. The rest of the
house is fine.

Is this likely?

Yes. ;-(

Any suggestions?

Use a Poweline adaptor to put a hotspot in your study or carry on with
the router acting as a hotspot etc?

Cheers, T i m

On 22/01/18 16:22, T i m wrote:


Use a Poweline adaptor to put a hotspot in your study or carry on with
the router acting as a hotspot etc?


Basically that's what I've done. I've attached the old router to a
powerline adapter and use it as an access point.

Another Dave

--
Change nospam to techie

In article ,
Another Dave wrote:
My 1920s house is L-shaped and because of its geometry the Wifi signal
has to go outside and then back in to get to my study where all my
computers and cool stuff are.

The signal is effectively non-existent in the study so I used an old
router to extend the signal. Still no joy unless I put the extender in
the study.

I'm forming the opinion that a metal foil moisture barrier is blocking
the signal though I have no evidence that there is one. The rest of the
house is fine.

Is this likely? Any suggestions?

Yes, hightly lilely

Other problems could be caused by very hard bricks. I suffer from that one
in our house extension.

--
from KT24 in Surrey, England

In article ,
Huge wrote:
On 2018-01-22, Another Dave wrote:
On 22/01/18 16:22, T i m wrote:


Use a Poweline adaptor to put a hotspot in your study or carry on with
the router acting as a hotspot etc?


Basically that's what I've done. I've attached the old router to a
powerline adapter and use it as an access point.

Powerline ethernet sucks syphilitic donkey dick.

But they wrok - a fixed router is fine for a fixed computer, but family
arrive with iPads and the like - they need wireless.

--
from KT24 in Surrey, England

In message , Huge
writes
On 2018-01-22, Another Dave wrote:
My 1920s house is L-shaped and because of its geometry the Wifi signal
has to go outside and then back in to get to my study where all my
computers and cool stuff are.

The signal is effectively non-existent in the study so I used an old
router to extend the signal. Still no joy unless I put the extender in
the study.

I'm forming the opinion that a metal foil moisture barrier is blocking
the signal though I have no evidence that there is one. The rest of the
house is fine.

Is this likely?

Yes. I have exactly the same problem.

Any suggestions?

Wired ethernet.

I've not long finished installing chicken wire between the floors in the
cottage (compromise between what the underfloor heating suppliers
specified, what Adam's mob want for cable runs and what BC wanted for
fire resistance).

I have run cat 6 cable here and there as suggested. Now what? Those
connectors don't look easy to wire up and what do you put at the outlet
end?



--
Tim Lamb

Tim Lamb wrote:

I have run cat 6 cable here and there as suggested. Now what? Those
connectors don't look easy to wire up

They are stiffer and more awkward that cat5e (an for little benefit
unless you're expecting to use 10Gbe network).

and what do you put at the outlet end?

faceplate

https://www.cablemonkey.co.uk/3050-cat6a-modules-outlets

On 22/01/2018 17:24, Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , Huge
writes
On 2018-01-22, Another Dave wrote:
My 1920s house is L-shaped and because of its geometry the Wifi signal
has to go outside and then back in to get to my study where all my
computers and cool stuff are.

The signal is effectively non-existent in the study so I used an old
router to extend the signal. Still no joy unless I put the extender in
the study.

I'm forming the opinion that a metal foil moisture barrier is blocking
the signal though I have no evidence that there is one. The rest of the
house is fine.

Is this likely?

Yes. I have exactly the same problem.

Any suggestions?

Wired ethernet.

I've not long finished installing chicken wire between the floors in the
cottage (compromise between what the underfloor heating suppliers
specified, what Adam's mob want for cable runs and what BC wanted for
fire resistance).

I have run cat 6 cable here and there as suggested. Now what? Those
connectors don't look easy to wire up and what do you put at the outlet
end?

A RJ45 wall mounted modular socket:

https://www.comms-express.com/catego...-rj45-modules/

If you have lots of them, then a patch panel at the other end:

https://www.comms-express.com/categories/patch-panels/

(or for a few, just more modular sockets like on the far end)

Then you have the start of a structured wiring system:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/...stem#Wiring_Up


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Mon, 22 Jan 2018 17:24:51 +0000, Tim Lamb
wrote:
snip

I have run cat 6 cable here and there as suggested. Now what?

If you have a place that you consider to be a hub', wire them into a
suitable RJ45 patch and use matching singles or doubles at the
'remote' ends.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Catego...le#Termination

Those
connectors don't look easy to wire up

They are more fiddly than difficult Tim, at the patch end particularly
because of the quantity of cables involved.

So, you take the first cable, strip the outer sheath revealing enough
of the inner cable to allow you to work on it and without untwisting
any more of each than necessary, lay them over the relevant IDC
connector then punch down with the right tool. That both pushed the
wire into the blade to give the IDC connection but often trims the
wires off to the right length at the same time. Repeat with the other
3 pairs for that cable them move into the next. ;-)

and what do you put at the outlet
end?

Std, mini, surface, flush, 1-4 way boxes, again with the wires punched
in using the same 'code' (they are often colour coded and a couple of
different ways) at the 'hub' end.

You need to start the ball rolling with how *you* want to lay it all
out (if to use 1 big patch, a couple of smaller ... or separate boxes
at the 'comms' end, depending on how many ends you have) and what type
of boxes you want at the remote ends and we go from there (happy to
pop over and hook it all up etc). ;-)

Cheers, T i m

p.s. Most of my wiring has been done on Cat5e ('hundreds' of runs) so
I'd have to research the Cat6 option.

On 22/01/18 17:31, Andy Burns wrote:
Tim Lamb wrote:

I have run cat 6 cable here and there as suggested. Now what? Those
connectors don't look easy to wire up

They are stiffer and more awkward that cat5e (an for little benefit
unless you're expecting to use 10Gbe network).

The latest iMac Pro sports a 10gig ethernet connection... Handy if you
have a local media/file server.

And yes, it's a mare - just done a lash up in Cat6a to test some
equipment. It's like cabling with slinkys compared to Cat5e. And don't
over bend it - permitted bend radius is around 25mm typically, so if you
bent it in a "u", you'd have 2" between one side and the other.


and what do you put at the outlet end?

faceplate

https://www.cablemonkey.co.uk/3050-cat6a-modules-outlets

On Mon, 22 Jan 2018 18:12:20 +0000, Tim Watts
wrote:

On 22/01/18 17:31, Andy Burns wrote:
Tim Lamb wrote:

I have run cat 6 cable here and there as suggested. Now what? Those
connectors don't look easy to wire up

They are stiffer and more awkward that cat5e (an for little benefit
unless you're expecting to use 10Gbe network).

The latest iMac Pro sports a 10gig ethernet connection... Handy if you
have a local media/file server.

And yes, it's a mare - just done a lash up in Cat6a to test some
equipment. It's like cabling with slinkys compared to Cat5e. And don't
over bend it - permitted bend radius is around 25mm typically, so if you
bent it in a "u", you'd have 2" between one side and the other.

As it looks like I might be helping Tim wire it all up, I wonder if
it's too late to use the Cat6 to pull Cat5e though (I have enough of
the low fume stuff here). ;-)

Cheers, T i m

On 22/01/18 16:16, Another Dave wrote:
My 1920s house is L-shaped and because of its geometry the Wifi signal
has to go outside and then back in to get to my studyÂ* where all my
computers and cool stuff are.

The signal is effectively non-existent in the study so I used an old
router to extend the signal. Still no joy unless I put the extender in
the study.

I'm forming the opinion that a metal foil moisture barrier is blocking
the signal though I have no evidence that there is one. The rest of the
house is fine.

Is this likely? Any suggestions?

II can certainly confirm that 15 feet is a long distance for wifi even
with two open doorways when all your walls are foil backed...


Another Dave


--
Gun Control: The law that ensures that only criminals have guns.

On 22/01/18 17:24, Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , Huge
writes
On 2018-01-22, Another Dave wrote:
My 1920s house is L-shaped and because of its geometry the Wifi signal
has to go outside and then back in to get to my studyÂ* where all my
computers and cool stuff are.

The signal is effectively non-existent in the study so I used an old
router to extend the signal. Still no joy unless I put the extender in
the study.

I'm forming the opinion that a metal foil moisture barrier is blocking
the signal though I have no evidence that there is one. The rest of the
house is fine.

Is this likely?

Yes. I have exactly the same problem.

Any suggestions?

Wired ethernet.

I've not long finished installing chicken wire between the floors in the
cottage (compromise between what the underfloor heating suppliers
specified, what Adam's mob want for cable runs and what BC wanted for
fire resistance).

I have run cat 6 cable here and there as suggested. Now what? Those
connectors don't look easy to wire up and what do you put at the outlet
end?

ethernet (RJ45) faceplates on standard backing boxes: Punch down with a
standard krone tool






--
Gun Control: The law that ensures that only criminals have guns.

On 22/01/18 16:32, Huge wrote:
On 2018-01-22, Another Dave wrote:
On 22/01/18 16:22, T i m wrote:


Use a Poweline adaptor to put a hotspot in your study or carry on with
the router acting as a hotspot etc?


Basically that's what I've done. I've attached the old router to a
powerline adapter and use it as an access point.

Powerline ethernet sucks syphilitic donkey dick.

Well it works but its only half duplex. And its shared. It's like going
back to 10base T coax. Only one person can use it in one direction at a
a time.

It works but its no substitute for CAT 5


--
Karl Marx said religion is the opium of the people.
But Marxism is the crack cocaine.

On Monday, 22 January 2018 17:25:13 UTC, Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , Huge
writes
On 2018-01-22, Another Dave wrote:
My 1920s house is L-shaped and because of its geometry the Wifi signal
has to go outside and then back in to get to my study where all my
computers and cool stuff are.

The signal is effectively non-existent in the study so I used an old
router to extend the signal. Still no joy unless I put the extender in
the study.

I'm forming the opinion that a metal foil moisture barrier is blocking
the signal though I have no evidence that there is one. The rest of the
house is fine.

Is this likely?

Yes. I have exactly the same problem.

Any suggestions?

Wired ethernet.

I've not long finished installing chicken wire between the floors in the
cottage (compromise between what the underfloor heating suppliers
specified, what Adam's mob want for cable runs and what BC wanted for
fire resistance).

I have run cat 6 cable here and there as suggested. Now what? Those
connectors don't look easy to wire up and what do you put at the outlet
end?

The plugs aren't hard to put on. Sockets ditto. Most can be left unterminated as long as you can get to them if/when necessary. You need the right tool for the plugs.

And yes, 10G will be required, it's just a matter of when. That's how computers go. I remember when I thought 10M networking was way OTT. And indeed when we ran a 300 baud modem, 10M was unthinkable, but today it's usable but not what anyone would install. 10G will become out of date.


NT

On 22/01/2018 17:24, Tim Lamb wrote:


I've not long finished installing chicken wire between the floors in the
cottage (compromise between what the underfloor heating suppliers
specified, what Adam's mob want for cable runs and what BC wanted for
fire resistance).

I have run cat 6 cable here and there as suggested. Now what? Those
connectors don't look easy to wire up and what do you put at the outlet
end?




Something like

https://www.toolstation.com/shop/Ele...let+Kit/p64596

Surface mount box or a deep metal one.

You need an insertion tool like

https://www.toolstation.com/shop/Ele...wn+Tool/p83108

or a proper tool

https://www.toolstation.com/shop/Ele...wn+Tool/p40716

Watch which way around it is as it cuts the excess wire off when you
insert it.

Then you just need patch leads at each end like

https://www.toolstation.com/shop/Ele...ch+Lead/p21789

On 22/01/2018 18:30, wrote:

8

And yes, 10G will be required, it's just a matter of when. That's how
computers go. I remember when I thought 10M networking was way OTT.
And indeed when we ran a 300 baud modem, 10M was unthinkable, but
today it's usable but not what anyone would install. 10G will become
out of date.


NT


Luxury, I have to manage with 600M WiFi.

On 22/01/18 19:42, Huge wrote:
On 2018-01-22, pamela wrote:
On 16:32 22 Jan 2018, Huge wrote:

On 2018-01-22, Another Dave wrote:
On 22/01/18 16:22, T i m wrote:


Use a Poweline adaptor to put a hotspot in your study or carry
on with the router acting as a hotspot etc?


Basically that's what I've done. I've attached the old router
to a powerline adapter and use it as an access point.

Powerline ethernet sucks syphilitic donkey dick.

That's seems like a remarkably fair assessment judging by my own
experience with Netgear repeaters to feed Internet into my
smart telly.

Yep. I have to run continuous pings to the router to keep mine alive.
Otherwise every few minutes the link goes away. The lights flash, it
looks *just* there's data flowing, but there isn't.

Oh, My tplinks always get data through...its just that sometimes I am
lucky to get 3Mbps.


Not because they arent connecting at decent speed, but simply because
when heavy traffic is going one way, ACKs aren't coming back the other way..


--
Its easier to fool people than to convince them that they have been fooled.
Mark Twain

The Natural Philosopher wrote:

My tplinks always get data through...its just that sometimes I am
lucky to get 3Mbps.

Not because they arent connecting at decent speed, but simply because
when heavy traffic is going one way, ACKs aren't coming back the other way..

Can't you put openWRT/LEDE on a TP-link and use CoDel?

In message , Andy Burns
writes
Tim Lamb wrote:

I have run cat 6 cable here and there as suggested. Now what? Those
connectors don't look easy to wire up

They are stiffer and more awkward that cat5e (an for little benefit
unless you're expecting to use 10Gbe network).

and what do you put at the outlet end?

faceplate

https://www.cablemonkey.co.uk/3050-cat6a-modules-outlets

OK I'll shout for help nearer occupation time.


--
Tim Lamb

In message , T i m
writes
On Mon, 22 Jan 2018 18:12:20 +0000, Tim Watts
wrote:

On 22/01/18 17:31, Andy Burns wrote:
Tim Lamb wrote:

I have run cat 6 cable here and there as suggested. Now what? Those
connectors don't look easy to wire up

They are stiffer and more awkward that cat5e (an for little benefit
unless you're expecting to use 10Gbe network).

The latest iMac Pro sports a 10gig ethernet connection... Handy if you
have a local media/file server.

And yes, it's a mare - just done a lash up in Cat6a to test some
equipment. It's like cabling with slinkys compared to Cat5e. And don't
over bend it - permitted bend radius is around 25mm typically, so if you
bent it in a "u", you'd have 2" between one side and the other.

As it looks like I might be helping Tim wire it all up, I wonder if
it's too late to use the Cat6 to pull Cat5e though (I have enough of
the low fume stuff here). ;-)

Unlikely. Can you loop or does each circuit need to be a single radial
feed?

The Devolo mains set up here works all the current users but I don't
know how fast.

--
Tim Lamb

In message , John
Rumm writes
On 22/01/2018 17:24, Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , Huge
writes
On 2018-01-22, Another Dave wrote:
My 1920s house is L-shaped and because of its geometry the Wifi signal
has to go outside and then back in to get to my study where all my
computers and cool stuff are.

The signal is effectively non-existent in the study so I used an old
router to extend the signal. Still no joy unless I put the extender in
the study.

I'm forming the opinion that a metal foil moisture barrier is blocking
the signal though I have no evidence that there is one. The rest of the
house is fine.

Is this likely?

Yes. I have exactly the same problem.

Any suggestions?

Wired ethernet.

I've not long finished installing chicken wire between the floors in the
cottage (compromise between what the underfloor heating suppliers
specified, what Adam's mob want for cable runs and what BC wanted for
fire resistance).

I have run cat 6 cable here and there as suggested. Now what? Those
connectors don't look easy to wire up and what do you put at the outlet
end?

A RJ45 wall mounted modular socket:

https://www.comms-express.com/catego...-rj45-modules/

If you have lots of them, then a patch panel at the other end:

https://www.comms-express.com/categories/patch-panels/

(or for a few, just more modular sockets like on the far end)

Then you have the start of a structured wiring system:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/...stem#Wiring_Up

Hmm.. The current set up is a desk top hard wired to the router, a lap
top running on wifi line of sight to the router and anything else on two
Devolos pushing out wifi for visiting i pads and phones.

I am expecting wifi issues with the cottage although the walls should be
transparent.



--
Tim Lamb

In message , T i m
writes
On Mon, 22 Jan 2018 18:12:20 +0000, Tim Watts
wrote:

On 22/01/18 17:31, Andy Burns wrote:
Tim Lamb wrote:

I have run cat 6 cable here and there as suggested. Now what? Those
connectors don't look easy to wire up

They are stiffer and more awkward that cat5e (an for little benefit
unless you're expecting to use 10Gbe network).

The latest iMac Pro sports a 10gig ethernet connection... Handy if you
have a local media/file server.

And yes, it's a mare - just done a lash up in Cat6a to test some
equipment. It's like cabling with slinkys compared to Cat5e. And don't
over bend it - permitted bend radius is around 25mm typically, so if you
bent it in a "u", you'd have 2" between one side and the other.

As it looks like I might be helping Tim wire it all up, I wonder if
it's too late to use the Cat6 to pull Cat5e though (I have enough of
the low fume stuff here). ;-)

My hero!

--
Tim Lamb

On Mon, 22 Jan 2018 20:50:21 +0000, Tim Lamb
wrote:

In message , T i m
writes
On Mon, 22 Jan 2018 18:12:20 +0000, Tim Watts
wrote:

On 22/01/18 17:31, Andy Burns wrote:
Tim Lamb wrote:

I have run cat 6 cable here and there as suggested. Now what? Those
connectors don't look easy to wire up

They are stiffer and more awkward that cat5e (an for little benefit
unless you're expecting to use 10Gbe network).

The latest iMac Pro sports a 10gig ethernet connection... Handy if you
have a local media/file server.

And yes, it's a mare - just done a lash up in Cat6a to test some
equipment. It's like cabling with slinkys compared to Cat5e. And don't
over bend it - permitted bend radius is around 25mm typically, so if you
bent it in a "u", you'd have 2" between one side and the other.

As it looks like I might be helping Tim wire it all up, I wonder if
it's too late to use the Cat6 to pull Cat5e though (I have enough of
the low fume stuff here). ;-)

Unlikely. Can you loop or does each circuit need to be a single radial
feed?

Radial. *Typically / ideally* you would have all yer comms arranged in
some central / common location ... a sub section of the cupboard under
the stairs, a corner of the study and into a multi-port patch panel.
From there you would run a patch cable from whatever kit was
appropriate (say Ethernet ports of your switch or router) out to all
the places you need such. There is nothing stopping you running a
service *in* via the same cable system, say from a cable / ADSL modem
near the front door.

The Devolo mains set up here works all the current users but I don't
know how fast.

Probably faster than your external broadband service so unless you are
running a media server or moving big files about internally, it
probably wouldn't make much difference.

Cheers, T i m

On Mon, 22 Jan 2018 16:30:59 +0000, Huge wrote:

On 2018-01-22, Another Dave wrote:
My 1920s house is L-shaped and because of its geometry the Wifi signal
has to go outside and then back in to get to my study where all my
computers and cool stuff are.

The signal is effectively non-existent in the study so I used an old
router to extend the signal. Still no joy unless I put the extender in
the study.

I'm forming the opinion that a metal foil moisture barrier is blocking
the signal though I have no evidence that there is one. The rest of the
house is fine.

Is this likely?

Yes. I have exactly the same problem.

Any suggestions?

Wired ethernet.

+1

--
My posts are my copyright and if @diy_forums or Home Owners' Hub
wish to copy them they can pay me £1 a message.
Use the BIG mirror service in the UK: http://www.mirrorservice.org
*lightning surge protection* - a w_tom conductor

On Mon, 22 Jan 2018 16:32:01 +0000, Huge wrote:

On 2018-01-22, Another Dave wrote:
On 22/01/18 16:22, T i m wrote:


Use a Poweline adaptor to put a hotspot in your study or carry on with
the router acting as a hotspot etc?


Basically that's what I've done. I've attached the old router to a
powerline adapter and use it as an access point.

Powerline ethernet sucks syphilitic donkey dick.

+1

--
My posts are my copyright and if @diy_forums or Home Owners' Hub
wish to copy them they can pay me £1 a message.
Use the BIG mirror service in the UK: http://www.mirrorservice.org
*lightning surge protection* - a w_tom conductor

On 22 Jan 2018 21:42:24 GMT, Bob Eager wrote:

On Mon, 22 Jan 2018 16:32:01 +0000, Huge wrote:

On 2018-01-22, Another Dave wrote:
On 22/01/18 16:22, T i m wrote:


Use a Poweline adaptor to put a hotspot in your study or carry on with
the router acting as a hotspot etc?


Basically that's what I've done. I've attached the old router to a
powerline adapter and use it as an access point.

Powerline ethernet sucks syphilitic donkey dick.

+1

Maybe it depends on the make / model / installation?

I supplied the in-laws a TP-Link set to run Ethernet from a NowTV box
to the router (better than WiFi), run a WiFi hotspot at the diagonally
opposite end of the house to the router (works fine) and to a PC in
the back of the house, again using Ethernet and that too works fast
and reliably?

They weren't about to start running cables round the place and didn't
need to?

Another site uses a pair with a remote WiFi adaptor to take the WiFi
signal from the router and locate it somewhere more useful.

A third, a motorcycle shop runs Ethernet out from the main office to
the MOT bay and they *rely* on that for all MOTs. *It just works*?

Cheers, T i m

On 22/01/2018 17:09, charles wrote:
Other problems could be caused by very hard bricks. I suffer from that one
in our house extension.

Our house used to be rendered with lathes. Sometime in the last 100
years a lot of the laths have been replaced by expanded metal mesh.
That's a pretty good Faraday cage too...

Andy

On Mon, 22 Jan 2018 16:16:15 +0000, Another Dave wrote:

My 1920s house is L-shaped and because of its geometry the Wifi signal
has to go outside and then back in to get to my study where all my
computers and cool stuff are.

So your study is at the end of one leg of the L and the WiFi AP at
the end of the other leg? Try moving the AP to the outer corner of
where the two legs meet, so the signal can pass down both legs.

If at all possible cable it, in fact cable everything if at all
possible. I'd not use a Powerline device, they chuck out far too much
wideband RF noise. A WiFi extender instantly halves the though put.
Main AP transmits a packet, then has to remain silent whilst the
extender re-transmits that packet. Note: This is throughput, the WiFi
devices may well still report 300 Mbps(*) (or WHY) connections.

(*) "300 Mbps", the total raw bit rate, ie 150 Mbps up 150 Mbps down,
then take away the overheads...

--
Cheers
Dave.

Dave Liquorice wrote:

On Mon, 22 Jan 2018 16:16:15 +0000, Another Dave wrote:

My 1920s house is L-shaped and because of its geometry the Wifi signal
has to go outside and then back in to get to my study where all my
computers and cool stuff are.

So your study is at the end of one leg of the L and the WiFi AP at
the end of the other leg? Try moving the AP to the outer corner of
where the two legs meet, so the signal can pass down both legs.

If at all possible cable it, in fact cable everything if at all
possible. I'd not use a Powerline device, they chuck out far too much
wideband RF noise. A WiFi extender instantly halves the though put.
Main AP transmits a packet, then has to remain silent whilst the
extender re-transmits that packet. Note: This is throughput, the WiFi
devices may well still report 300 Mbps(*) (or WHY) connections.

(*) "300 Mbps", the total raw bit rate, ie 150 Mbps up 150 Mbps down,
then take away the overheads...

A separate WiFi access point, with an ethernet connection (upstairs
ceiling mounted with POE is quite labour saving) and its own SSID
overcomes most of the disadvantages of an extender.


--

Roger Hayter

On 22/01/18 20:02, Andy Burns wrote:
The Natural Philosopher wrote:

My tplinks always get data through...its just that sometimes I am
lucky to get 3Mbps.

Not because they arent connecting at decent speed, but simply because
when heavy traffic is going one way, ACKs aren't coming back the other
way..

Can't you put openWRT/LEDE on a TP-link and use CoDel?

You cant put anything on a powerline aqdapter. They have no accessible
software


--
If you tell a lie big enough and keep repeating it, people will
eventually come to believe it. The lie can be maintained only for such
time as the State can shield the people from the political, economic
and/or military consequences of the lie. It thus becomes vitally
important for the State to use all of its powers to repress dissent, for
the truth is the mortal enemy of the lie, and thus by extension, the
truth is the greatest enemy of the State.

Joseph Goebbels

On 22/01/2018 18:22, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 22/01/18 16:32, Huge wrote:
On 2018-01-22, Another Dave wrote:
On 22/01/18 16:22, T i m wrote:


Use a Poweline adaptor to put a hotspot in your study or carry on with
the router acting as a hotspot etc?


Basically that's what I've done. I've attached the old router to a
powerline adapter and use it as an access point.

Powerline ethernet sucks syphilitic donkey dick.

Well it works but its only half duplex. And its shared. It's like going
back to 10base T coax. Only one person can use it in one direction at a
a time.

That was true back in the early naughties with the original CSMA/CD 14
Mbps PHY implementation. Not so for the current stuff - especially
HomePlug AV2 that has MIMO and can get real world throughput at over 500
Mbps

It works but its no substitute for CAT 5

It may not be as good as CAT5 - but its clearly a substitute in many
circumstances where you don't have CAT5 ;-)

--
Cheers,

John.

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On 22/01/2018 18:35, pamela wrote:
On 16:32 22 Jan 2018, Huge wrote:

On 2018-01-22, Another Dave wrote:
On 22/01/18 16:22, T i m wrote:


Use a Poweline adaptor to put a hotspot in your study or carry
on with the router acting as a hotspot etc?


Basically that's what I've done. I've attached the old router
to a powerline adapter and use it as an access point.

Powerline ethernet sucks syphilitic donkey dick.

That's seems like a remarkably fair assessment judging by my own
experience with Netgear repeaters to feed Internet into my
smart telly.

However isn't a Powerline-connected wifi repeater going to be better
than a wireless wifi repeater?

Usually yes. It also does not halve the throughput of the wifi as the
budget single radio wifi repeaters do.

I'm interested in this because my mum's room in a care home can't get
their wifi signal, which means we can't help her Skype to other
people. Despite paying gazillions of pounds per hour in care home
fees, I think we may have to provide the equipment to get the wifi
signal to her room.

It might work - although depending on the wiring configuration you could
have difficulties (say if the building has 3 phase).

I'm not sure what's the best approach.

Something like:

https://www.ebuyer.com/759306-tp-lin...a4220kit-v1-20

Can work well in applications like that - it gives you both wired and
wireless at the remote end. Pretty quick and easy to setup.


--
Cheers,

John.

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| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Tue, 23 Jan 2018 00:48:00 +0000, Roger Hayter wrote:

A separate WiFi access point, with an ethernet connection (upstairs
ceiling mounted with POE is quite labour saving) ...

Provided the ceiling plasterboards aren't foil backed, in the loft
central ish over the building outline is less obtrusive.

I bet that most peoples trouble with WiFi coverage is down to poor
placement, RF wise, of the AP. Mainly beacuse of the "one box"
modem/router/switch/AP solution. It gets plonked within 6' of a phone
socket and shoved somewhere out of the way so ends up in far flung
corner of the house and partly buried under other stuff.

... and its own SSID overcomes most of the disadvantages of an extender.

Even better if you have it on a different channel, so both APs can
talk at the same time. Why do you have a different SSID? To get
coverage here I've two APS, on different channels but same SSID,
devices seamlessly switch between them.

--
Cheers
Dave.

On 23/01/18 10:50, John Rumm wrote:
On 22/01/2018 18:22, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 22/01/18 16:32, Huge wrote:
On 2018-01-22, Another Dave wrote:
On 22/01/18 16:22, T i m wrote:


Use a Poweline adaptor to put a hotspot in your study or carry on with
the router acting as a hotspot etc?


Basically that's what I've done. I've attached the old router to a
powerline adapter and use it as an access point.

Powerline ethernet sucks syphilitic donkey dick.

Well it works but its only half duplex. And its shared. It's like going
back to 10base T coax. Only one person can use it in one direction at a
a time.

That was true back in the early naughties with the original CSMA/CD 14
Mbps PHY implementation. Not so for the current stuff - especially
HomePlug AV2 that has MIMO and can get real world throughput at over 500
Mbps

My homeplugs are brand new 500Mpbs and that is *exactly* how they behave.

I can load a file at 50MByte/s plus. I can sve a file at 50 MBytes/s plus

But if I am loading one, then saving*, then loading them
saving..1Mbytes/second.

I could probably tune TCP/IP to improve that, but why should I have to?


*essentially running handrakke on a file on the server to create another
file on yhet server.


It works but its no substitute for CAT 5

It may not be as good as CAT5 - but its clearly a substitute in many
circumstances where you don't have CAT5 ;-)



--
€œBut what a weak barrier is truth when it stands in the way of an
hypothesis!€�

Mary Wollstonecraft

On 23/01/18 10:52, Huge wrote:
On 2018-01-23, John Rumm wrote:
On 22/01/2018 18:22, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 22/01/18 16:32, Huge wrote:
On 2018-01-22, Another Dave wrote:
On 22/01/18 16:22, T i m wrote:


Use a Poweline adaptor to put a hotspot in your study or carry on with
the router acting as a hotspot etc?


Basically that's what I've done. I've attached the old router to a
powerline adapter and use it as an access point.

Powerline ethernet sucks syphilitic donkey dick.

Well it works but its only half duplex. And its shared. It's like going
back to 10base T coax. Only one person can use it in one direction at a
a time.

That was true back in the early naughties with the original CSMA/CD 14
Mbps PHY implementation. Not so for the current stuff - especially
HomePlug AV2 that has MIMO and can get real world throughput at over 500
Mbps

The issue, AFAIAC, is that having been bitten twice by Powerline crap,
I'm reluctant to try any more. The issue isn't the throughput (I'm
getting better throughput from it than the broadband), but that it
goes away altogether every few minutes.

I've not had that problem on powerline. Just on brodcomm crappy wifi
drivers.


--
€œBut what a weak barrier is truth when it stands in the way of an
hypothesis!€�

Mary Wollstonecraft

On 22/01/2018 17:54, T i m wrote:
On Mon, 22 Jan 2018 17:24:51 +0000, Tim Lamb
wrote:
snip

I have run cat 6 cable here and there as suggested. Now what?

If you have a place that you consider to be a hub', wire them into a
suitable RJ45 patch and use matching singles or doubles at the
'remote' ends.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Catego...le#Termination

Those
connectors don't look easy to wire up

They are more fiddly than difficult Tim, at the patch end particularly
because of the quantity of cables involved.

So, you take the first cable, strip the outer sheath revealing enough
of the inner cable to allow you to work on it and without untwisting
any more of each than necessary, lay them over the relevant IDC
connector then punch down with the right tool. That both pushed the
wire into the blade to give the IDC connection but often trims the
wires off to the right length at the same time. Repeat with the other
3 pairs for that cable them move into the next. ;-)

+1, also I would add that finding a nice make of connector makes life
much easier as well. That "Excel" brand I linked to above is very nice
to wire since you can push the wire into the outer part of the terminal
by hand[1] easily enough, and it grips it firmly. That lets you get all
8 wires in the right place first, and then munch them all down at the
same time, rather than individually.

[1] Strip 40mm or so of outer when you start and there is enough wire to
get a proper grip on! The punchdown tool will trip to length.




and what do you put at the outlet
end?

Std, mini, surface, flush, 1-4 way boxes, again with the wires punched
in using the same 'code' (they are often colour coded and a couple of
different ways) at the 'hub' end.

Yup there are two common wiring patterns for these things TIA-568A and
568B - it does not matter which you use, but you must use the same at
both ends. The B variant now seems far more common, and many of the
connectors are now only marked with the B colour code which actually
makes life easier since you don't need to stop and think each time which
you want!

You need to start the ball rolling with how *you* want to lay it all
out (if to use 1 big patch, a couple of smaller ... or separate boxes
at the 'comms' end, depending on how many ends you have) and what type
of boxes you want at the remote ends and we go from there (happy to
pop over and hook it all up etc). ;-)

In this day and age it makes sense to stick it all over the place -
assume each TV, blueray player, AV Amp, games console etc will want
ethernet - so having sockets handy makes like easier.

Cheers, T i m

p.s. Most of my wiring has been done on Cat5e ('hundreds' of runs) so
I'd have to research the Cat6 option.

Its much the same, just a bit harder to work (due to using Screened
Twisted Pair rather than UTP), and you need to make sure you use CAT6
qualified modules etc.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
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| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 22/01/2018 23:08, Vir Campestris wrote:
On 22/01/2018 17:09, charles wrote:
Other problems could be caused by very hard bricks. I suffer from that
one
in our house extension.

Our house used to be rendered with lathes.

'kin heavy I bet... and plastering over the headstock is always a pain ;-)


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 23/01/2018 13:28, John Rumm wrote:

That lets you get all
8 wires in the right place first, and then munch them all down at the
same time, rather than individually.


Munch? Some of us daren't risk our teeth on that! Unlike in our
younger days when naturally we'd bite through the T&E, nibble the heads
off the nails in the horseshoes, ...

--
Robin
reply-to address is (intended to be) valid

On Tue, 23 Jan 2018 13:29:45 +0000, John Rumm wrote:

On 22/01/2018 23:08, Vir Campestris wrote:
On 22/01/2018 17:09, charles wrote:
Other problems could be caused by very hard bricks. I suffer from that
one in our house extension.

Our house used to be rendered with lathes.

'kin heavy I bet... and plastering over the headstock is always a pain
;-)

I was waiting for that...



--
My posts are my copyright and if @diy_forums or Home Owners' Hub
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Use the BIG mirror service in the UK: http://www.mirrorservice.org
*lightning surge protection* - a w_tom conductor