I need to crimp 2 16mm x 8 uninsulated lugs onto some 16mm stranded
cable.
These - http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/BHLUG16.html

I don't possess a crimp tool for uninsulated lugs, very rare need (for
me) - simply not worth £21 cost for 2 crimps.
Typical I have insulated lug crimps, RJ45,RJ11,BT631A, RG58/59, CT100,
etc. ... but not this type.
I don't want to solder on as it will reduce flexibility at joint, and
could result in failure in future.

Any body any suggestion of neat way of doing this without the tool ?

Pliers ?
Molegrips ?
Vice jaws ?
make up something to use in vice jaws ?

In article ,
Rick Hughes writes:
I need to crimp 2 16mm x 8 uninsulated lugs onto some 16mm stranded
cable.
These - http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/BHLUG16.html

I don't possess a crimp tool for uninsulated lugs, very rare need (for
me) - simply not worth £21 cost for 2 crimps.
Typical I have insulated lug crimps, RJ45,RJ11,BT631A, RG58/59, CT100,
etc. ... but not this type.
I don't want to solder on as it will reduce flexibility at joint, and
could result in failure in future.

Any body any suggestion of neat way of doing this without the tool ?

Pliers ?
Molegrips ?
Vice jaws ?
make up something to use in vice jaws ?

You can buy earth straps already made up with crimped lugs...

http://cpc.farnell.com/jsp/search/br...Results=tru e

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

In article , Rick Hughes
writes
I need to crimp 2 16mm x 8 uninsulated lugs onto some 16mm stranded
cable.
These - http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/BHLUG16.html

I don't possess a crimp tool for uninsulated lugs, very rare need (for
me) - simply not worth £21 cost for 2 crimps.
Typical I have insulated lug crimps, RJ45,RJ11,BT631A, RG58/59, CT100,
etc. ... but not this type.
I don't want to solder on as it will reduce flexibility at joint, and
could result in failure in future.

Any body any suggestion of neat way of doing this without the tool ?

Pliers ?
Molegrips ?
Vice jaws ?
make up something to use in vice jaws ?

Make a die by drilling a hole in a piece of steel then cut in half to
form a split pair.

Set up in a big vice and use a ball bearing in the build to put a dimple
in the crimp when it is all torqued up. I've seen dimples used in other
large sized crimps so it appears to be a recognised technique.

Perform a pull test to destruction on a spare or spares to ensure the
security and safety of the final crimp.
--
fred
it's a ba-na-na . . . .

In article , Rick Hughes
scribeth thus
I need to crimp 2 16mm x 8 uninsulated lugs onto some 16mm stranded
cable.
These - http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/BHLUG16.html

I don't possess a crimp tool for uninsulated lugs, very rare need (for
me) - simply not worth £21 cost for 2 crimps.
Typical I have insulated lug crimps, RJ45,RJ11,BT631A, RG58/59, CT100,
etc. ... but not this type.
I don't want to solder on as it will reduce flexibility at joint, and
could result in failure in future.

Any body any suggestion of neat way of doing this without the tool ?

Pliers ?
Molegrips ?
Vice jaws ?
make up something to use in vice jaws ?

I'd just Solder it, the other methods won't work all that well...
--
Tony Sayer

On Thu, 02 May 2013 22:38:51 +0100, Rick Hughes
wrote:

I need to crimp 2 16mm x 8 uninsulated lugs onto some 16mm stranded
cable.
These - http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/BHLUG16.html

I don't possess a crimp tool for uninsulated lugs, very rare need (for
me) - simply not worth £21 cost for 2 crimps.
Typical I have insulated lug crimps, RJ45,RJ11,BT631A, RG58/59, CT100,
etc. ... but not this type.
I don't want to solder on as it will reduce flexibility at joint, and
could result in failure in future.

Any body any suggestion of neat way of doing this without the tool ?

Pliers ?
Molegrips ?
Vice jaws ?
make up something to use in vice jaws ?

Can you hire these crimp tools?

I wouldn't dream of buying one then taking it back ("the wrong
type/size") for a refund after you've done your crimping...

--
Frank Erskine

On Thu, 02 May 2013 22:38:51 +0100, Rick Hughes
wrote:

I need to crimp 2 16mm x 8 uninsulated lugs onto some 16mm stranded
cable.
These - http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/BHLUG16.html

I don't possess a crimp tool for uninsulated lugs, very rare need (for
me) - simply not worth £21 cost for 2 crimps.
Typical I have insulated lug crimps, RJ45,RJ11,BT631A, RG58/59, CT100,
etc. ... but not this type.
I don't want to solder on as it will reduce flexibility at joint, and
could result in failure in future.

Do you really need flexibility at the joint? Solder worked
satisfactorily for decades!

--
Frank Erskine

"Frank Erskine" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 02 May 2013 22:38:51 +0100, Rick Hughes
wrote:

I need to crimp 2 16mm x 8 uninsulated lugs onto some 16mm stranded
cable.
These - http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/BHLUG16.html

I don't possess a crimp tool for uninsulated lugs, very rare need (for
me) - simply not worth £21 cost for 2 crimps.
Typical I have insulated lug crimps, RJ45,RJ11,BT631A, RG58/59, CT100,
etc. ... but not this type.
I don't want to solder on as it will reduce flexibility at joint, and
could result in failure in future.

Do you really need flexibility at the joint? Solder worked
satisfactorily for decades!

Yep, in any case, surely he could stress relieve the joint somehow for an
inch or two from the terminal.

bm wrote:
"Frank Erskine" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 02 May 2013 22:38:51 +0100, Rick Hughes
wrote:

I need to crimp 2 16mm x 8 uninsulated lugs onto some 16mm stranded
cable.
These - http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/BHLUG16.html

I don't possess a crimp tool for uninsulated lugs, very rare need (for
me) - simply not worth £21 cost for 2 crimps.
Typical I have insulated lug crimps, RJ45,RJ11,BT631A, RG58/59, CT100,
etc. ... but not this type.
I don't want to solder on as it will reduce flexibility at joint, and
could result in failure in future.
Do you really need flexibility at the joint? Solder worked
satisfactorily for decades!

Yep, in any case, surely he could stress relieve the joint somehow for an
inch or two from the terminal.


Life's too short to peel olives.

Bill

On May 2, 10:38*pm, Rick Hughes
wrote:
I need to crimp 2 * 16mm x 8 *uninsulated lugs onto some 16mm stranded
cable.
These *-http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/BHLUG16.html

I don't possess a crimp tool for uninsulated lugs, very rare need (for
me) - simply not worth 21 cost for 2 crimps.
Typical I have insulated lug crimps, RJ45,RJ11,BT631A, RG58/59, CT100,
etc. ... but not this type.
I don't want to solder on as it will reduce flexibility at joint, and
could result in failure in future.

Any body any suggestion of neat way of doing this without the tool ?

Pliers ?
Molegrips ?
Vice jaws ?
make up something to use in vice jaws ?Ads not by this site

Solder them on. Use a blowlamp.

On Friday 03 May 2013 00:13 bm wrote in uk.d-i-y:


"Frank Erskine" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 02 May 2013 22:38:51 +0100, Rick Hughes
wrote:

I need to crimp 2 16mm x 8 uninsulated lugs onto some 16mm stranded
cable.
These - http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/BHLUG16.html

I don't possess a crimp tool for uninsulated lugs, very rare need (for
me) - simply not worth �21 cost for 2 crimps.
Typical I have insulated lug crimps, RJ45,RJ11,BT631A, RG58/59, CT100,
etc. ... but not this type.
I don't want to solder on as it will reduce flexibility at joint, and
could result in failure in future.

Do you really need flexibility at the joint? Solder worked
satisfactorily for decades!

Yep, in any case, surely he could stress relieve the joint somehow for an
inch or two from the terminal.

Yes - with 2-3 layers of heatshrink - that's how I'd do it...

--
Tim Watts Personal Blog: http://squiddy.blog.dionic.net/

http://www.sensorly.com/ Crowd mapping of 2G/3G/4G mobile signal coverage

Reading this on the web? See:
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Usenet

On Thu, 02 May 2013 22:38:51 +0100, Rick Hughes
wrote:

I need to crimp 2 16mm x 8 uninsulated lugs onto some 16mm stranded
cable.
These - http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/BHLUG16.html

I don't possess a crimp tool for uninsulated lugs, very rare need (for
me) - simply not worth £21 cost for 2 crimps.
Typical I have insulated lug crimps, RJ45,RJ11,BT631A, RG58/59, CT100,
etc. ... but not this type.
I don't want to solder on as it will reduce flexibility at joint, and
could result in failure in future.

If you are concerned about solder affecting the flexibility of the joint and
crimping being ok then you need to supply better support to the cable because
the lug will fail regardless of how you terminate it.

Soldering, if done correctly, hardly affects the cable

Clamp the lug between a couple of bits of wood

Tin the cable, heat the lug with a small blowtorch, fill with proper tin lead
flux cored solder keeping it molten Ensure flux is still present and not boiled
off. insert the cable into the lug and post heat for a few seconds so the solder
properly flows. Observe the solder change to solid then cool with a damp rag to
reduce any insulation damage.

Allow to fully cool, heatshrink sleeve the lug and the first inch or so of the
cable preferably with adhesive lined heatshrink.

Had some like that on a competition vehicle for nearly two decades and they are
still ok.


--

Rick Hughes wrote:
I need to crimp 2 16mm x 8 uninsulated lugs onto some 16mm stranded cable.
These - http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/BHLUG16.html

I don't possess a crimp tool for uninsulated lugs, very rare need (for
me) - simply not worth £21 cost for 2 crimps.
Typical I have insulated lug crimps, RJ45,RJ11,BT631A, RG58/59, CT100,
etc. ... but not this type.
I don't want to solder on as it will reduce flexibility at joint, and
could result in failure in future.

Any body any suggestion of neat way of doing this without the tool ?

Pliers ?
Molegrips ?
Vice jaws ?
make up something to use in vice jaws ?

Take it to an auto-electrical man. I did this for a heavy duty cable for an
inverter. Crimped two connections and supplied a 100amp fuse (+holder)
for a tenner. Money well spent IMO.

Tim

In article ,
The Other Mike wrote:
If you are concerned about solder affecting the flexibility of the joint
and crimping being ok then you need to supply better support to the
cable because the lug will fail regardless of how you terminate it.

Soldering, if done correctly, hardly affects the cable

It certainly does. Flex a soldered cable end enough and it will always
fail first by the soldered joint. But this may not matter anyway.

--
*Why is a boxing ring square?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 02/05/2013 22:54, Andrew Gabriel wrote:


You can buy earth straps already made up with crimped lugs...


In this case it's to terminate existing high current leads to a DC
winch, cables in place ... need to crimp on ends

On 02/05/2013 22:55, fred wrote:


Make a die by drilling a hole in a piece of steel then cut in half to
form a split pair.

Set up in a big vice and use a ball bearing in the build to put a dimple
in the crimp when it is all torqued up. I've seen dimples used in other
large sized crimps so it appears to be a recognised technique.

Perform a pull test to destruction on a spare or spares to ensure the
security and safety of the final crimp.

This was my thoughts ... anybody know now much smaller than crimp lug
diam I should drill the hole ?
The diam of the lug is aprox 7.6mm

On 02/05/2013 23:07, tony sayer wrote:

I'd just Solder it, the other methods won't work all that well...


I can't solder .. it would make too much of a mess of the end of the
insulated cables.

On 02/05/2013 23:10, Frank Erskine wrote:

I wouldn't dream of buying one then taking it back ("the wrong
type/size") for a refund after you've done your crimping...

I did think of a 'wrong purchase' at TLC .... I did buy the lugs there.

On 03/05/2013 00:03, Frank Erskine wrote:

Do you really need flexibility at the joint? Solder worked
satisfactorily for decades!



I could do without the flexibility ....
But to solder these lugs onto 16mm2 copper cable will take a lot of heat
.... and that means the PVC insulation will be damaged a significant
length away form fitting.

On 03/05/2013 09:30, The Other Mike wrote:
AS mentioned above - I can do without the flexability .. no really
needed at this end of the cct.

Soldering, if done correctly, hardly affects the cable


My concern is the amount of heat will cause damage to the PVC insulation
... PVC and a blowtorch is not a good mix.

I do have plenty of solder and flux ... maybe I will have to go this way.

In article ,
Rick Hughes wrote:
I could do without the flexibility ....
But to solder these lugs onto 16mm2 copper cable will take a lot of heat
... and that means the PVC insulation will be damaged a significant
length away form fitting.

No more so than soldering any PVC covered cable. You just need to take
some care.

--
*I'm planning to be spontaneous tomorrow *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 03/05/2013 12:31, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Rick Hughes wrote:
I could do without the flexibility ....
But to solder these lugs onto 16mm2 copper cable will take a lot of heat
... and that means the PVC insulation will be damaged a significant
length away form fitting.

No more so than soldering any PVC covered cable. You just need to take
some care.



My worry was while I can happily solder a piece of 0.25mm2 PVC flex with
ease using soldering iron .... this 16mm2 plus copper lug is going to
act as a big heatsink and take a lot of heat from blow torch .... I know
this is not much different to soldering 28mm Cu pipes .... but they
don;t have PVC sheath :-)

Maybe I'll just have to try it.

"Rick Hughes" wrote in message
...

On 03/05/2013 12:31, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Rick Hughes wrote:
I could do without the flexibility ....
But to solder these lugs onto 16mm2 copper cable will take a lot of heat
... and that means the PVC insulation will be damaged a significant
length away form fitting.

No more so than soldering any PVC covered cable. You just need to take
some care.



My worry was while I can happily solder a piece of 0.25mm2 PVC flex with
ease using soldering iron .... this 16mm2 plus copper lug is going to act
as a big heatsink and take a lot of heat from blow torch .... I know this
is not much different to soldering 28mm Cu pipes .... but they don;t have
PVC sheath :-)

Maybe I'll just have to try it.


I wrap a wet cloth round the pvc sheath, then use a very large iron so the
job is able to be done quickly. If you do not have a very large iron, a fine
blowlamp directed on the lug as you feed solder down the back of it will do
the job.

AWEM

On 2013-05-03, Bill Wright wrote:

bm wrote:

Yep, in any case, surely he could stress relieve the joint somehow for an
inch or two from the terminal.


Life's too short to peel olives.

This is wiring, not plumbing.
;-)

"Tim+" wrote in message
...
Rick Hughes wrote:
I need to crimp 2 16mm x 8 uninsulated lugs onto some 16mm stranded
cable.
These - http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/BHLUG16.html

I don't possess a crimp tool for uninsulated lugs, very rare need (for
me) - simply not worth £21 cost for 2 crimps.
Typical I have insulated lug crimps, RJ45,RJ11,BT631A, RG58/59, CT100,
etc. ... but not this type.
I don't want to solder on as it will reduce flexibility at joint, and
could result in failure in future.

Any body any suggestion of neat way of doing this without the tool ?

Pliers ?
Molegrips ?
Vice jaws ?
make up something to use in vice jaws ?

Take it to an auto-electrical man. I did this for a heavy duty cable for
an
inverter. Crimped two connections and supplied a 100amp fuse (+holder)
for a tenner. Money well spent IMO.

If you are near nottingham, i have one, just a cheapie hydraulic crimper
from china, but it does the job perfectly, the dies are hex shaped, and i
made up a load of cables for connecting 6 batteries in paralell and series a
while ago, along with current shunt leads, bus bar connections, inverter
leads and so on, was for an 800 AH battery bank and monitoring system in my
motorhome, cable was the stuff used for big arc welder earth leads,

Or as others have said, an auto electrician should have the tool, usually
the manual one with 6 foot long handles, but when i last wanted that
service, i had to wait for the bloke to have a free few minutes, and that
took 3 weeks to come around.

Tho tbh my hydraulic crimper is just like a vise in use, one fixed jaw,
other connected to the ram, pump the handle to move them together with a few
tons of force, and the dies are made of alli, so easy enough to make if you
have a lump of alli laying about,
Not sure of the size of the die needed tho, i'd say mine crimps them a good
3 or 4 mm tighter than they start out, and no way i could pull one free
after crimping.

In article ,
Rick Hughes writes:
On 03/05/2013 12:31, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Rick Hughes wrote:
I could do without the flexibility ....
But to solder these lugs onto 16mm2 copper cable will take a lot of heat
... and that means the PVC insulation will be damaged a significant
length away form fitting.

No more so than soldering any PVC covered cable. You just need to take
some care.

My worry was while I can happily solder a piece of 0.25mm2 PVC flex with
ease using soldering iron .... this 16mm2 plus copper lug is going to
act as a big heatsink and take a lot of heat from blow torch .... I know
this is not much different to soldering 28mm Cu pipes .... but they
don;t have PVC sheath :-)

Maybe I'll just have to try it.

I sometimes solder inaccessible T&E connections, although I don't
know if you are using standard T&E.

The PVC insulation on 70C T&E PVC does seem to be significantly less
able to withstand soldering than that on most connecting wires which
you are likely to have soldered. If you solder it, make sure there
are no forces on the PVC, e.g. dead straight into the connector or
it will peel off the conductor as it attemps to straighten out, and
nothing pressing against it as it will push through.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

In article , Rick Hughes
scribeth thus
On 03/05/2013 12:31, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Rick Hughes wrote:
I could do without the flexibility ....
But to solder these lugs onto 16mm2 copper cable will take a lot of heat
... and that means the PVC insulation will be damaged a significant
length away form fitting.

No more so than soldering any PVC covered cable. You just need to take
some care.



My worry was while I can happily solder a piece of 0.25mm2 PVC flex with
ease using soldering iron .... this 16mm2 plus copper lug is going to
act as a big heatsink and take a lot of heat from blow torch .... I know
this is not much different to soldering 28mm Cu pipes .... but they
don;t have PVC sheath :-)

Maybe I'll just have to try it.

Just get on with it Rick, it is not rocket science!. Use a small gas
blowlamp get the joint hot quick, solder quick and make sure it "runs"
into the joint OK.

Have a damp rag handy to hold the plastic sheathing in and cool it
quickly.

Or beg steal or borrow the right crimps then. By the look of the cable
size its going to take quite some current and you really don't want a
high resistance duff joint else look forward to arcing and fire and
smoke and damage!...
--
Tony Sayer

On Fri, 3 May 2013 13:41:00 +0100, tony sayer wrote:

Or beg steal or borrow the right crimps then.

Doesn't sound as if the work could be taken to a friendly spark to be
done where they happen to be working. Trying to borrow a suitable crimp
tool would be my approach to start with.

By the look of the cable size its going to take quite some current and
you really don't want a high resistance duff joint else look forward to
arcing and fire and smoke and damage!...

Agreed, soldering is OK but remember that you need a good mechnical joint
as well. In this high current case even more so IMHO.

--
Cheers
Dave.

On 03/05/2013 13:39, Andrew Gabriel wrote:


The PVC insulation on 70C T&E PVC does seem to be significantly less
able to withstand soldering than that on most connecting wires which
you are likely to have soldered. If you solder it, make sure there
are no forces on the PVC, e.g. dead straight into the connector or
it will peel off the conductor as it attemps to straighten out, and
nothing pressing against it as it will push through.


This is single core 16mm2 stranded 'starter cable'

On 03/05/2013 16:27, Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Fri, 3 May 2013 13:41:00 +0100, tony sayer wrote:

Or beg steal or borrow the right crimps then.

Doesn't sound as if the work could be taken to a friendly spark to be
done where they happen to be working. Trying to borrow a suitable crimp
tool would be my approach to start with.

TBH 21 quid isn't that much for the tool. Yes, it's a bit painful in
comparison to the cost of the crimps, but I'd justify it as 11 quid a
joint and you end up with a potentially useful tool.

On Fri, 03 May 2013 17:25:42 +0100, Clive George wrote:

Doesn't sound as if the work could be taken to a friendly spark to be
done where they happen to be working. Trying to borrow a suitable
crimp tool would be my approach to start with.

TBH 21 quid isn't that much for the tool.

True but it's 1/3 of the weeks supermarket bill...

Yes, it's a bit painful in comparison to the cost of the crimps, but
I'd justify it as 11 quid a joint and you end up with a potentially
useful tool.

How often are you likely to do 16mm crimps? I'm with the OP it'll be
these two and that's it. I guess one could buy a tool that does more than
16mm but again these are big not the red/yellow/blue that one would find
in domestic wiring. Buying and flogging on eBay to recoup some of the
cost might be a possibilty.

--
Cheers
Dave.

On 03/05/2013 22:34, Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Fri, 03 May 2013 17:25:42 +0100, Clive George wrote:

Doesn't sound as if the work could be taken to a friendly spark to be
done where they happen to be working. Trying to borrow a suitable
crimp tool would be my approach to start with.

TBH 21 quid isn't that much for the tool.

True but it's 1/3 of the weeks supermarket bill...

Yes, it's a bit painful in comparison to the cost of the crimps, but
I'd justify it as 11 quid a joint and you end up with a potentially
useful tool.

How often are you likely to do 16mm crimps? I'm with the OP it'll be
these two and that's it. I guess one could buy a tool that does more than
16mm but again these are big not the red/yellow/blue that one would find
in domestic wiring. Buying and flogging on eBay to recoup some of the
cost might be a possibilty.

The link he gave originally led to two tools, one 1.5-16mm, one 6mm-25mm
I think. I'd probably buy one, partly because it's always good getting
another tool :-)

On Fri, 03 May 2013 22:34:45 +0100 (BST), "Dave Liquorice"
wrote:

On Fri, 03 May 2013 17:25:42 +0100, Clive George wrote:

Doesn't sound as if the work could be taken to a friendly spark to be
done where they happen to be working. Trying to borrow a suitable
crimp tool would be my approach to start with.

TBH 21 quid isn't that much for the tool.

True but it's 1/3 of the weeks supermarket bill...

Yes, it's a bit painful in comparison to the cost of the crimps, but
I'd justify it as 11 quid a joint and you end up with a potentially
useful tool.

How often are you likely to do 16mm crimps? I'm with the OP it'll be
these two and that's it. I guess one could buy a tool that does more than
16mm but again these are big not the red/yellow/blue that one would find
in domestic wiring. Buying and flogging on eBay to recoup some of the
cost might be a possibilty.

Just wrap the wires around the terminals if you aren't happy about
soldering or proper crimping.
To be honest, I've always considered crimping to be a fast,
semi-skilled process - an inferior substitute for proper
termination/jointing, whether on 16mm wire ends or BNC plugs.

Isn't crimping also a hairdressing term?

(d&rfc)
--
Frank Erskine

Frank Erskine wrote:
On Fri, 03 May 2013 22:34:45 +0100 (BST), "Dave Liquorice"
wrote:

On Fri, 03 May 2013 17:25:42 +0100, Clive George wrote:

Doesn't sound as if the work could be taken to a friendly spark to be
done where they happen to be working. Trying to borrow a suitable
crimp tool would be my approach to start with.

TBH 21 quid isn't that much for the tool.

True but it's 1/3 of the weeks supermarket bill...

Yes, it's a bit painful in comparison to the cost of the crimps, but
I'd justify it as 11 quid a joint and you end up with a potentially
useful tool.

How often are you likely to do 16mm crimps? I'm with the OP it'll be
these two and that's it. I guess one could buy a tool that does more than
16mm but again these are big not the red/yellow/blue that one would find
in domestic wiring. Buying and flogging on eBay to recoup some of the
cost might be a possibilty.

Just wrap the wires around the terminals if you aren't happy about
soldering or proper crimping.
To be honest, I've always considered crimping to be a fast,
semi-skilled process - an inferior substitute for proper
termination/jointing, whether on 16mm wire ends or BNC plugs.

Isn't crimping also a hairdressing term?

(d&rfc)

Crimping is often the superior method and in some cases essential.

In article ,
Frank Erskine wrote:
To be honest, I've always considered crimping to be a fast,
semi-skilled process - an inferior substitute for proper
termination/jointing, whether on 16mm wire ends or BNC plugs.

That gets my vote as the worst informed quote of the month.

--
*When cheese gets it's picture taken, what does it say?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Just wrap the wires around the terminals if you aren't happy about
soldering or proper crimping.
To be honest, I've always considered crimping to be a fast,
semi-skilled process - an inferior substitute for proper
termination/jointing, whether on 16mm wire ends or BNC plugs.


May I comment "nonsense" to the member from opp North!

Done correctly its an excellent method but MUST be done with the correct
crimp tools!....

Isn't crimping also a hairdressing term?

(d&rfc)

--
Tony Sayer

On Sat, 04 May 2013 10:06:45 +0100, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

To be honest, I've always considered crimping to be a fast,
semi-skilled process - an inferior substitute for proper
termination/jointing, whether on 16mm wire ends or BNC plugs.

That gets my vote as the worst informed quote of the month.

+1

I suspect Frank has only ever come across crimps not done with the
corrcet tool for the crimp in use on stuff that the crimp wasn't designed
for.

A correctly sized crimp done with the correct tool to the right pressure
produces a gas tight cold weld. Very reliable, doesn't creep or vibrate
loose. I guess this is why avionics uses crimps...

--
Cheers
Dave.

In article o.uk,
Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Sat, 04 May 2013 10:06:45 +0100, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

To be honest, I've always considered crimping to be a fast,
semi-skilled process - an inferior substitute for proper
termination/jointing, whether on 16mm wire ends or BNC plugs.

That gets my vote as the worst informed quote of the month.

+1

I suspect Frank has only ever come across crimps not done with the
corrcet tool for the crimp in use on stuff that the crimp wasn't
designed for.

Not sure about that. With the mention of BNC plugs. There are non crimp
ones available for emergency repairs in the field - but the vast majority
rely on being correctly crimped. How else would you connect the screen?

A correctly sized crimp done with the correct tool to the right pressure
produces a gas tight cold weld. Very reliable, doesn't creep or vibrate
loose. I guess this is why avionics uses crimps...

Quite.

--
*Where there's a will, I want to be in it.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...

In article o.uk,
Dave Liquorice wrote:

Not sure about that. With the mention of BNC plugs. There are non crimp
ones available for emergency repairs in the field - but the vast majority
rely on being correctly crimped. How else would you connect the screen?

Years ago when I used to have to make up many BNC leads, the supplied
sockets & plugs had a ferrule thing that you had to slide down between the
screen and inner sheath, and the gripper 'collet' squashed them tightly into
contact. You started striping back to the drawing, soldered the centre pin
on, slid the back nut, rubber squashy thing and washer on, then the ferrule.
Then assembled the whole shebang onto the body. Got quite good at it G

AWEM

On 04/05/2013 12:57, Dave Liquorice wrote:
A correctly sized crimp done with the correct tool to the right pressure
produces a gas tight cold weld. Very reliable, doesn't creep or vibrate
loose. I guess this is why avionics uses crimps...

You'll also find crimps used in the rigging for yachts - copper sleeve
around stainless wire.

Andy

On Sat, 4 May 2013 17:39:39 +0100, Andrew Mawson wrote:

Not sure about that. With the mention of BNC plugs. There are non
crimp ones available for emergency repairs in the field - but the vast
majority rely on being correctly crimped. How else would you connect
the screen?

Years ago when I used to have to make up many BNC leads, the supplied
sockets & plugs had a ferrule thing that you had to slide down between
the screen and inner sheath, and the gripper 'collet' squashed them
tightly into contact. You started striping back to the drawing,
soldered the centre pin on, slid the back nut, rubber squashy thing and
washer on, then the ferrule. Then assembled the whole shebang onto the
body. Got quite good at it G

Possibly not quite the same but close enough for jazz:

http://testfacilities.tpub.com/TM-11...5-928-350037im.
jpg

--
Cheers
Dave.