I need to crimp 2 16mm x 8 uninsulated lugs onto some 16mm stranded
cable.
These - http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/BHLUG16.html

I don't possess a crimp tool for uninsulated lugs, very rare need (for
me) - simply not worth £21 cost for 2 crimps.
Typical I have insulated lug crimps, RJ45,RJ11,BT631A, RG58/59, CT100,
etc. ... but not this type.
I don't want to solder on as it will reduce flexibility at joint, and
could result in failure in future.

Any body any suggestion of neat way of doing this without the tool ?

Pliers ?
Molegrips ?
Vice jaws ?
make up something to use in vice jaws ?

In article , Rick Hughes
writes
I need to crimp 2 16mm x 8 uninsulated lugs onto some 16mm stranded
cable.
These - http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/BHLUG16.html

I don't possess a crimp tool for uninsulated lugs, very rare need (for
me) - simply not worth £21 cost for 2 crimps.
Typical I have insulated lug crimps, RJ45,RJ11,BT631A, RG58/59, CT100,
etc. ... but not this type.
I don't want to solder on as it will reduce flexibility at joint, and
could result in failure in future.

Any body any suggestion of neat way of doing this without the tool ?

Pliers ?
Molegrips ?
Vice jaws ?
make up something to use in vice jaws ?

Make a die by drilling a hole in a piece of steel then cut in half to
form a split pair.

Set up in a big vice and use a ball bearing in the build to put a dimple
in the crimp when it is all torqued up. I've seen dimples used in other
large sized crimps so it appears to be a recognised technique.

Perform a pull test to destruction on a spare or spares to ensure the
security and safety of the final crimp.
--
fred
it's a ba-na-na . . . .

On 02/05/2013 22:55, fred wrote:


Make a die by drilling a hole in a piece of steel then cut in half to
form a split pair.

Set up in a big vice and use a ball bearing in the build to put a dimple
in the crimp when it is all torqued up. I've seen dimples used in other
large sized crimps so it appears to be a recognised technique.

Perform a pull test to destruction on a spare or spares to ensure the
security and safety of the final crimp.

This was my thoughts ... anybody know now much smaller than crimp lug
diam I should drill the hole ?
The diam of the lug is aprox 7.6mm

In article ,
Rick Hughes writes:
I need to crimp 2 16mm x 8 uninsulated lugs onto some 16mm stranded
cable.
These - http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/BHLUG16.html

I don't possess a crimp tool for uninsulated lugs, very rare need (for
me) - simply not worth £21 cost for 2 crimps.
Typical I have insulated lug crimps, RJ45,RJ11,BT631A, RG58/59, CT100,
etc. ... but not this type.
I don't want to solder on as it will reduce flexibility at joint, and
could result in failure in future.

Any body any suggestion of neat way of doing this without the tool ?

Pliers ?
Molegrips ?
Vice jaws ?
make up something to use in vice jaws ?

You can buy earth straps already made up with crimped lugs...

http://cpc.farnell.com/jsp/search/br...Results=tru e

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On 02/05/2013 22:54, Andrew Gabriel wrote:


You can buy earth straps already made up with crimped lugs...


In this case it's to terminate existing high current leads to a DC
winch, cables in place ... need to crimp on ends

On Thu, 02 May 2013 22:38:51 +0100, Rick Hughes
wrote:

I need to crimp 2 16mm x 8 uninsulated lugs onto some 16mm stranded
cable.
These - http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/BHLUG16.html

I don't possess a crimp tool for uninsulated lugs, very rare need (for
me) - simply not worth £21 cost for 2 crimps.
Typical I have insulated lug crimps, RJ45,RJ11,BT631A, RG58/59, CT100,
etc. ... but not this type.
I don't want to solder on as it will reduce flexibility at joint, and
could result in failure in future.

Any body any suggestion of neat way of doing this without the tool ?

Pliers ?
Molegrips ?
Vice jaws ?
make up something to use in vice jaws ?

Can you hire these crimp tools?

I wouldn't dream of buying one then taking it back ("the wrong
type/size") for a refund after you've done your crimping...

--
Frank Erskine

On 02/05/2013 23:10, Frank Erskine wrote:

I wouldn't dream of buying one then taking it back ("the wrong
type/size") for a refund after you've done your crimping...

I did think of a 'wrong purchase' at TLC .... I did buy the lugs there.

In article , Rick Hughes
scribeth thus
I need to crimp 2 16mm x 8 uninsulated lugs onto some 16mm stranded
cable.
These - http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/BHLUG16.html

I don't possess a crimp tool for uninsulated lugs, very rare need (for
me) - simply not worth £21 cost for 2 crimps.
Typical I have insulated lug crimps, RJ45,RJ11,BT631A, RG58/59, CT100,
etc. ... but not this type.
I don't want to solder on as it will reduce flexibility at joint, and
could result in failure in future.

Any body any suggestion of neat way of doing this without the tool ?

Pliers ?
Molegrips ?
Vice jaws ?
make up something to use in vice jaws ?

I'd just Solder it, the other methods won't work all that well...
--
Tony Sayer

On 02/05/2013 23:07, tony sayer wrote:

I'd just Solder it, the other methods won't work all that well...


I can't solder .. it would make too much of a mess of the end of the
insulated cables.

On Thu, 02 May 2013 22:38:51 +0100, Rick Hughes
wrote:

I need to crimp 2 16mm x 8 uninsulated lugs onto some 16mm stranded
cable.
These - http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/BHLUG16.html

I don't possess a crimp tool for uninsulated lugs, very rare need (for
me) - simply not worth £21 cost for 2 crimps.
Typical I have insulated lug crimps, RJ45,RJ11,BT631A, RG58/59, CT100,
etc. ... but not this type.
I don't want to solder on as it will reduce flexibility at joint, and
could result in failure in future.

Do you really need flexibility at the joint? Solder worked
satisfactorily for decades!

--
Frank Erskine

"Frank Erskine" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 02 May 2013 22:38:51 +0100, Rick Hughes
wrote:

I need to crimp 2 16mm x 8 uninsulated lugs onto some 16mm stranded
cable.
These - http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/BHLUG16.html

I don't possess a crimp tool for uninsulated lugs, very rare need (for
me) - simply not worth £21 cost for 2 crimps.
Typical I have insulated lug crimps, RJ45,RJ11,BT631A, RG58/59, CT100,
etc. ... but not this type.
I don't want to solder on as it will reduce flexibility at joint, and
could result in failure in future.

Do you really need flexibility at the joint? Solder worked
satisfactorily for decades!

Yep, in any case, surely he could stress relieve the joint somehow for an
inch or two from the terminal.

bm wrote:
"Frank Erskine" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 02 May 2013 22:38:51 +0100, Rick Hughes
wrote:

I need to crimp 2 16mm x 8 uninsulated lugs onto some 16mm stranded
cable.
These - http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/BHLUG16.html

I don't possess a crimp tool for uninsulated lugs, very rare need (for
me) - simply not worth £21 cost for 2 crimps.
Typical I have insulated lug crimps, RJ45,RJ11,BT631A, RG58/59, CT100,
etc. ... but not this type.
I don't want to solder on as it will reduce flexibility at joint, and
could result in failure in future.
Do you really need flexibility at the joint? Solder worked
satisfactorily for decades!

Yep, in any case, surely he could stress relieve the joint somehow for an
inch or two from the terminal.


Life's too short to peel olives.

Bill

On 2013-05-03, Bill Wright wrote:

bm wrote:

Yep, in any case, surely he could stress relieve the joint somehow for an
inch or two from the terminal.


Life's too short to peel olives.

This is wiring, not plumbing.
;-)

On Friday 03 May 2013 00:13 bm wrote in uk.d-i-y:


"Frank Erskine" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 02 May 2013 22:38:51 +0100, Rick Hughes
wrote:

I need to crimp 2 16mm x 8 uninsulated lugs onto some 16mm stranded
cable.
These - http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/BHLUG16.html

I don't possess a crimp tool for uninsulated lugs, very rare need (for
me) - simply not worth �21 cost for 2 crimps.
Typical I have insulated lug crimps, RJ45,RJ11,BT631A, RG58/59, CT100,
etc. ... but not this type.
I don't want to solder on as it will reduce flexibility at joint, and
could result in failure in future.

Do you really need flexibility at the joint? Solder worked
satisfactorily for decades!

Yep, in any case, surely he could stress relieve the joint somehow for an
inch or two from the terminal.

Yes - with 2-3 layers of heatshrink - that's how I'd do it...

--
Tim Watts Personal Blog: http://squiddy.blog.dionic.net/

http://www.sensorly.com/ Crowd mapping of 2G/3G/4G mobile signal coverage

Reading this on the web? See:
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Usenet

On 03/05/2013 00:03, Frank Erskine wrote:

Do you really need flexibility at the joint? Solder worked
satisfactorily for decades!



I could do without the flexibility ....
But to solder these lugs onto 16mm2 copper cable will take a lot of heat
.... and that means the PVC insulation will be damaged a significant
length away form fitting.

In article ,
Rick Hughes wrote:
I could do without the flexibility ....
But to solder these lugs onto 16mm2 copper cable will take a lot of heat
... and that means the PVC insulation will be damaged a significant
length away form fitting.

No more so than soldering any PVC covered cable. You just need to take
some care.

--
*I'm planning to be spontaneous tomorrow *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 03/05/2013 12:31, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Rick Hughes wrote:
I could do without the flexibility ....
But to solder these lugs onto 16mm2 copper cable will take a lot of heat
... and that means the PVC insulation will be damaged a significant
length away form fitting.

No more so than soldering any PVC covered cable. You just need to take
some care.



My worry was while I can happily solder a piece of 0.25mm2 PVC flex with
ease using soldering iron .... this 16mm2 plus copper lug is going to
act as a big heatsink and take a lot of heat from blow torch .... I know
this is not much different to soldering 28mm Cu pipes .... but they
don;t have PVC sheath :-)

Maybe I'll just have to try it.

"Rick Hughes" wrote in message
...

On 03/05/2013 12:31, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Rick Hughes wrote:
I could do without the flexibility ....
But to solder these lugs onto 16mm2 copper cable will take a lot of heat
... and that means the PVC insulation will be damaged a significant
length away form fitting.

No more so than soldering any PVC covered cable. You just need to take
some care.



My worry was while I can happily solder a piece of 0.25mm2 PVC flex with
ease using soldering iron .... this 16mm2 plus copper lug is going to act
as a big heatsink and take a lot of heat from blow torch .... I know this
is not much different to soldering 28mm Cu pipes .... but they don;t have
PVC sheath :-)

Maybe I'll just have to try it.


I wrap a wet cloth round the pvc sheath, then use a very large iron so the
job is able to be done quickly. If you do not have a very large iron, a fine
blowlamp directed on the lug as you feed solder down the back of it will do
the job.

AWEM

In article ,
Rick Hughes writes:
On 03/05/2013 12:31, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Rick Hughes wrote:
I could do without the flexibility ....
But to solder these lugs onto 16mm2 copper cable will take a lot of heat
... and that means the PVC insulation will be damaged a significant
length away form fitting.

No more so than soldering any PVC covered cable. You just need to take
some care.

My worry was while I can happily solder a piece of 0.25mm2 PVC flex with
ease using soldering iron .... this 16mm2 plus copper lug is going to
act as a big heatsink and take a lot of heat from blow torch .... I know
this is not much different to soldering 28mm Cu pipes .... but they
don;t have PVC sheath :-)

Maybe I'll just have to try it.

I sometimes solder inaccessible T&E connections, although I don't
know if you are using standard T&E.

The PVC insulation on 70C T&E PVC does seem to be significantly less
able to withstand soldering than that on most connecting wires which
you are likely to have soldered. If you solder it, make sure there
are no forces on the PVC, e.g. dead straight into the connector or
it will peel off the conductor as it attemps to straighten out, and
nothing pressing against it as it will push through.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

In article , Rick Hughes
scribeth thus
On 03/05/2013 12:31, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Rick Hughes wrote:
I could do without the flexibility ....
But to solder these lugs onto 16mm2 copper cable will take a lot of heat
... and that means the PVC insulation will be damaged a significant
length away form fitting.

No more so than soldering any PVC covered cable. You just need to take
some care.



My worry was while I can happily solder a piece of 0.25mm2 PVC flex with
ease using soldering iron .... this 16mm2 plus copper lug is going to
act as a big heatsink and take a lot of heat from blow torch .... I know
this is not much different to soldering 28mm Cu pipes .... but they
don;t have PVC sheath :-)

Maybe I'll just have to try it.

Just get on with it Rick, it is not rocket science!. Use a small gas
blowlamp get the joint hot quick, solder quick and make sure it "runs"
into the joint OK.

Have a damp rag handy to hold the plastic sheathing in and cool it
quickly.

Or beg steal or borrow the right crimps then. By the look of the cable
size its going to take quite some current and you really don't want a
high resistance duff joint else look forward to arcing and fire and
smoke and damage!...
--
Tony Sayer

On May 2, 10:38*pm, Rick Hughes
wrote:
I need to crimp 2 * 16mm x 8 *uninsulated lugs onto some 16mm stranded
cable.
These *-http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/BHLUG16.html

I don't possess a crimp tool for uninsulated lugs, very rare need (for
me) - simply not worth 21 cost for 2 crimps.
Typical I have insulated lug crimps, RJ45,RJ11,BT631A, RG58/59, CT100,
etc. ... but not this type.
I don't want to solder on as it will reduce flexibility at joint, and
could result in failure in future.

Any body any suggestion of neat way of doing this without the tool ?

Pliers ?
Molegrips ?
Vice jaws ?
make up something to use in vice jaws ?Ads not by this site

Solder them on. Use a blowlamp.

On Thu, 02 May 2013 22:38:51 +0100, Rick Hughes
wrote:

I need to crimp 2 16mm x 8 uninsulated lugs onto some 16mm stranded
cable.
These - http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/BHLUG16.html

I don't possess a crimp tool for uninsulated lugs, very rare need (for
me) - simply not worth £21 cost for 2 crimps.
Typical I have insulated lug crimps, RJ45,RJ11,BT631A, RG58/59, CT100,
etc. ... but not this type.
I don't want to solder on as it will reduce flexibility at joint, and
could result in failure in future.

If you are concerned about solder affecting the flexibility of the joint and
crimping being ok then you need to supply better support to the cable because
the lug will fail regardless of how you terminate it.

Soldering, if done correctly, hardly affects the cable

Clamp the lug between a couple of bits of wood

Tin the cable, heat the lug with a small blowtorch, fill with proper tin lead
flux cored solder keeping it molten Ensure flux is still present and not boiled
off. insert the cable into the lug and post heat for a few seconds so the solder
properly flows. Observe the solder change to solid then cool with a damp rag to
reduce any insulation damage.

Allow to fully cool, heatshrink sleeve the lug and the first inch or so of the
cable preferably with adhesive lined heatshrink.

Had some like that on a competition vehicle for nearly two decades and they are
still ok.


--

In article ,
The Other Mike wrote:
If you are concerned about solder affecting the flexibility of the joint
and crimping being ok then you need to supply better support to the
cable because the lug will fail regardless of how you terminate it.

Soldering, if done correctly, hardly affects the cable

It certainly does. Flex a soldered cable end enough and it will always
fail first by the soldered joint. But this may not matter anyway.

--
*Why is a boxing ring square?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 03/05/2013 09:30, The Other Mike wrote:
AS mentioned above - I can do without the flexability .. no really
needed at this end of the cct.

Soldering, if done correctly, hardly affects the cable


My concern is the amount of heat will cause damage to the PVC insulation
... PVC and a blowtorch is not a good mix.

I do have plenty of solder and flux ... maybe I will have to go this way.

Rick Hughes wrote:
I need to crimp 2 16mm x 8 uninsulated lugs onto some 16mm stranded cable.
These - http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/BHLUG16.html

I don't possess a crimp tool for uninsulated lugs, very rare need (for
me) - simply not worth £21 cost for 2 crimps.
Typical I have insulated lug crimps, RJ45,RJ11,BT631A, RG58/59, CT100,
etc. ... but not this type.
I don't want to solder on as it will reduce flexibility at joint, and
could result in failure in future.

Any body any suggestion of neat way of doing this without the tool ?

Pliers ?
Molegrips ?
Vice jaws ?
make up something to use in vice jaws ?

Take it to an auto-electrical man. I did this for a heavy duty cable for an
inverter. Crimped two connections and supplied a 100amp fuse (+holder)
for a tenner. Money well spent IMO.

Tim

"Tim+" wrote in message
...
Rick Hughes wrote:
I need to crimp 2 16mm x 8 uninsulated lugs onto some 16mm stranded
cable.
These - http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/BHLUG16.html

I don't possess a crimp tool for uninsulated lugs, very rare need (for
me) - simply not worth £21 cost for 2 crimps.
Typical I have insulated lug crimps, RJ45,RJ11,BT631A, RG58/59, CT100,
etc. ... but not this type.
I don't want to solder on as it will reduce flexibility at joint, and
could result in failure in future.

Any body any suggestion of neat way of doing this without the tool ?

Pliers ?
Molegrips ?
Vice jaws ?
make up something to use in vice jaws ?

Take it to an auto-electrical man. I did this for a heavy duty cable for
an
inverter. Crimped two connections and supplied a 100amp fuse (+holder)
for a tenner. Money well spent IMO.

If you are near nottingham, i have one, just a cheapie hydraulic crimper
from china, but it does the job perfectly, the dies are hex shaped, and i
made up a load of cables for connecting 6 batteries in paralell and series a
while ago, along with current shunt leads, bus bar connections, inverter
leads and so on, was for an 800 AH battery bank and monitoring system in my
motorhome, cable was the stuff used for big arc welder earth leads,

Or as others have said, an auto electrician should have the tool, usually
the manual one with 6 foot long handles, but when i last wanted that
service, i had to wait for the bloke to have a free few minutes, and that
took 3 weeks to come around.

Tho tbh my hydraulic crimper is just like a vise in use, one fixed jaw,
other connected to the ram, pump the handle to move them together with a few
tons of force, and the dies are made of alli, so easy enough to make if you
have a lump of alli laying about,
Not sure of the size of the die needed tho, i'd say mine crimps them a good
3 or 4 mm tighter than they start out, and no way i could pull one free
after crimping.