I need to build well , "need" might be too strong ... some kind of plow
to pull behind my "new' tractor , and I'm thinking chisel plow . 3 or 4
blades is probably going to be the most I can pull with 17 hp , and I'm
trying to form a basic design using some old Chevy springs as the part that
holds the actual plow blade . Basic framework will likely be some 2X2 tubing
, using some high-wheel mower wheels as depth regulators (Isn't that how
they work? Wheel sets the depth?) . I'm not sure I'll even need to design a
3 point hitch to use this type of plow ...

--
Snag

On Sun, 16 Nov 2014 17:57:06 -0600
"Terry Coombs" wrote:

I need to build well , "need" might be too strong ... some kind of plow
to pull behind my "new' tractor , and I'm thinking chisel plow . 3 or 4
blades is probably going to be the most I can pull with 17 hp , and I'm
trying to form a basic design using some old Chevy springs as the part that
holds the actual plow blade . Basic framework will likely be some 2X2 tubing
, using some high-wheel mower wheels as depth regulators (Isn't that how
they work? Wheel sets the depth?) . I'm not sure I'll even need to design a
3 point hitch to use this type of plow ...


That's kind of a catchall term, chisel plow. Picture of a JD V-Ripper
he

http://www.ag-power.com/new-product/...e/915-v-ripper

If you're thinking of something like that (but smaller) it will still
take a lot of machine to pull it. Check out this youtube video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iwMlfMtcGP4

Note the tractor spinning/hopping around early on...

There was also one called a "soil saver". Looks like this:

http://www.equipmentlocator.com/phot...p/644432-1.jpg

Not a great picture, but you'll get the idea.

I would try copying one of these that look like what you think you
want. But, what are you hoping to accomplish with it?

Brinly has several implements made for small garden type tractors and
pretty good diagrams to get ideas from:

http://www.brinly.com/

It sounds like you want something similar to their cultivator:

http://www.brinly.com/CC_56BH.html

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

On 11/17/2014 12:55 PM, Leon Fisk wrote:
On Sun, 16 Nov 2014 17:57:06 -0600
"Terry wrote:

I need to buildwell , "need" might be too strong ... some kind of plow
to pull behind my "new' tractor , and I'm thinking chisel plow . 3 or 4
blades is probably going to be the most I can pull with 17 hp , ...

W/ chisels, they count "shanks" not "blades". Depending on the soil,
even three is likely optimistic unless you can really weight the tractor
down. Of course, you can simply scratch the top inch...

That's kind of a catchall term, chisel plow. Picture of a JD V-Ripper
he
....
....snip for brevity...
....
I would try copying one of these that look like what you think you
want. But, what are you hoping to accomplish with it?

Brinly has several implements made for small garden type tractors and
pretty good diagrams to get ideas from:
....

The origin of the species...

http://www.asabe.org/awards-landmarks/asabe-historic-landmarks/graham-hoeme-chisel-plow-38.aspx

Fred's farmstead is about 30 mi west of us; he was in the assisted
living facility in town while my mother was there her last few years
(almost 15 yr ago now). I found a rare very early model in an equipment
boneyard up by Pratt (KS) a number of years ago and took him the
production tag as a momento. He almost teared up over it as it was from
one of the handbuilt in the farm shop of the first couple of years...

They were simply known as "Hoeme's" (pronounced "Hay-me") out here for
years.

He and his brother worked on the design for years before it was finally
a real success. It wasn't until they got in touch with a metallurgist
from the steel mill in Pueblo, CO, from whom they'd purchased shanks
that they got a suitable alloy/heat treatment that would "give" enough
to not break but yet not simply unfold if were too soft.

--

Leon Fisk wrote:
On Sun, 16 Nov 2014 17:57:06 -0600
"Terry Coombs" wrote:

I need to build well , "need" might be too strong ... some kind
of plow to pull behind my "new' tractor , and I'm thinking chisel
plow . 3 or 4 blades is probably going to be the most I can pull
with 17 hp , and I'm trying to form a basic design using some old
Chevy springs as the part that holds the actual plow blade . Basic
framework will likely be some 2X2 tubing , using some high-wheel
mower wheels as depth regulators (Isn't that how they work? Wheel
sets the depth?) . I'm not sure I'll even need to design a 3 point
hitch to use this type of plow ...


That's kind of a catchall term, chisel plow. Picture of a JD V-Ripper
he

http://www.ag-power.com/new-product/...e/915-v-ripper

If you're thinking of something like that (but smaller) it will still
take a lot of machine to pull it. It sounds like you want something
similar to their cultivator:

http://www.brinly.com/CC_56BH.html


Yup , that cultivator is very similar to what I have in mind . This is for
prepping my garden in spring , might see duty as a between-the-rows
cultivator too . I'll probably also use it so score the ground where I want
wild flowers and stuff planted for our bees . Not going to see really heavy
duty , at least that's not the plan now .
--
Snag

On 11/17/2014 2:21 PM, dpb wrote:
The origin of the species...

http://www.asabe.org/awards-landmarks/asabe-historic-landmarks/graham-hoeme-chisel-plow-38.aspx
....

I followed that a bit & came to wiki. One thing that it said was that
chisel plows require 10 - 15 hp PER shank/chisel! (Because they go so
deep - 8-10".)

On Mon, 17 Nov 2014 13:21:47 -0600, dpb wrote:

On 11/17/2014 12:55 PM, Leon Fisk wrote:
On Sun, 16 Nov 2014 17:57:06 -0600
"Terry wrote:

I need to buildwell , "need" might be too strong ... some kind of plow
to pull behind my "new' tractor , and I'm thinking chisel plow . 3 or 4
blades is probably going to be the most I can pull with 17 hp , ...

W/ chisels, they count "shanks" not "blades". Depending on the soil,
even three is likely optimistic unless you can really weight the tractor
down. Of course, you can simply scratch the top inch...

That's kind of a catchall term, chisel plow. Picture of a JD V-Ripper
he
...
...snip for brevity...
...
I would try copying one of these that look like what you think you
want. But, what are you hoping to accomplish with it?

Brinly has several implements made for small garden type tractors and
pretty good diagrams to get ideas from:
...

The origin of the species...

http://www.asabe.org/awards-landmarks/asabe-historic-landmarks/graham-hoeme-chisel-plow-38.aspx

Fred's farmstead is about 30 mi west of us; he was in the assisted
living facility in town while my mother was there her last few years
(almost 15 yr ago now). I found a rare very early model in an equipment
boneyard up by Pratt (KS) a number of years ago and took him the
production tag as a momento. He almost teared up over it as it was from
one of the handbuilt in the farm shop of the first couple of years...

They were simply known as "Hoeme's" (pronounced "Hay-me") out here for
years.

He and his brother worked on the design for years before it was finally
a real success. It wasn't until they got in touch with a metallurgist
from the steel mill in Pueblo, CO, from whom they'd purchased shanks
that they got a suitable alloy/heat treatment that would "give" enough
to not break but yet not simply unfold if were too soft.
A neighbour back on the farm when I was a teenager used a chisel
plough and a one-way disk. We used a mouldboard plough. The chisel
really made his big tractor bark!!! I pulled 3 bottoms with a 44
Massey, and 2 with a 540 Cockshutt. , the '49 44 outpulled the
lightweight 540 almost 2:1. The neighbour had a "big" ford (I think it
was a 1965 5000 D? About half again the horsepower of the 44, which
was about half again the power of the 540.

On Mon, 17 Nov 2014 15:41:53 -0600, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

Leon Fisk wrote:
On Sun, 16 Nov 2014 17:57:06 -0600
"Terry Coombs" wrote:

I need to build well , "need" might be too strong ... some kind
of plow to pull behind my "new' tractor , and I'm thinking chisel
plow . 3 or 4 blades is probably going to be the most I can pull
with 17 hp , and I'm trying to form a basic design using some old
Chevy springs as the part that holds the actual plow blade . Basic
framework will likely be some 2X2 tubing , using some high-wheel
mower wheels as depth regulators (Isn't that how they work? Wheel
sets the depth?) . I'm not sure I'll even need to design a 3 point
hitch to use this type of plow ...


That's kind of a catchall term, chisel plow. Picture of a JD V-Ripper
he

http://www.ag-power.com/new-product/...e/915-v-ripper

If you're thinking of something like that (but smaller) it will still
take a lot of machine to pull it. It sounds like you want something
similar to their cultivator:

http://www.brinly.com/CC_56BH.html


Yup , that cultivator is very similar to what I have in mind . This is for
prepping my garden in spring , might see duty as a between-the-rows
cultivator too . I'll probably also use it so score the ground where I want
wild flowers and stuff planted for our bees . Not going to see really heavy
duty , at least that's not the plan now .
So basically a spring tooth cultivator more than a "chisel plough"

On 11/17/2014 4:45 PM, Bob Engelhardt wrote:
On 11/17/2014 2:21 PM, dpb wrote:
The origin of the species...

http://www.asabe.org/awards-landmarks/asabe-historic-landmarks/graham-hoeme-chisel-plow-38.aspx

...

I followed that a bit & came to wiki. One thing that it said was that
chisel plows require 10 - 15 hp PER shank/chisel! (Because they go so
deep - 8-10".)

That's possible in hard ground; pretty high for sandy ground out here.
I'd guess w/ chisel points (not sweeps or wide turning shears) 7-10 more
like it for those early versions like the picture.

We pulled a 10-ft with two extensions with an old Farmall 400 that was
about 55 belt HP. It new it was on something but could do it...

Go to heavy clay or the like and all bets are off, however...

I hadn't watched the video there before; I know exactly where the place
showing the man/boy is; it's less than 75 mi from us. Seen quite a few
of the others but don't know precisely where they are/were. Doesn't
(fortunately) bear any resemblance to that now even though we're in
another severe drought that rivals the 30s. We had our lowest recorded
here at the house since granddad homesteaded here last year including
the 30s and 50s of under 7". This year is still way under normal but
we've had a little over 10". Around us within as close as 30 miles
they've had as much a 25"; in September had a single rain within 15
miles that gave them 3 to 6" while we got 0.80".

--

On 11/17/2014 5:14 PM, wrote:
....

A neighbour back on the farm when I was a teenager used a chisel
plough and a one-way disk. We used a mouldboard plough. The chisel
really made his big tractor bark!!! I pulled 3 bottoms with a 44
Massey, and 2 with a 540 Cockshutt. , the '49 44 outpulled the
lightweight 540 almost 2:1. The neighbour had a "big" ford (I think it
was a 1965 5000 D? About half again the horsepower of the 44, which
was about half again the power of the 540.

The one-way was a prime factor in the Dirty-30s being so dirty -- it was
about the only tool used back then out here and while very efficient had
the distinct disadvantage in dry years and a windy climate with sandy
soil of turning all the residue over and breaking the ground up into
very fine particles. With no ground cover to speak of and no
significant clodding, wind erosion was inevitable and once started,
impossible to stop w/o serious rain and a let up of the wind long enough
to establish cover again. That didn't happen for about five years back
then.

The chisel, otoh, doesn't bury the residue and creates clods in damp
soil, even in the sand here if not done to excess. Both of those are
far more resistant to blowing.

Earliest we had when I was large enough to do anything were Farmall M
and 400. The M was roughly 45 belt hp, the 400 about 40 or so drawbar.
We also at that time had Cat 22s that did row crop work with; pulled a
3-row JD lister and cultivator with them.

After the dry 50s broke in '58, upgraded to a Case 930 wheatland (90
drawbar roughly) and Farmall 560. The latter was a real disappointment
and didn't last long before got the first 4000-series JD. Grandad had a
little WD-45 Allis he used when he got where couldn't handle the M or
400 any longer but didn't want to quit entirely. Had a full line of
3-pt 8-ft equipment for it including a spring chisel. Having so much
equipment, Dad bought a D17 and I did a _lot_ of row crop with it all
thru high school. I keep looking for a decent one of them; for
nostalgia. They're just cute plus make a real nice little front loader
tractor although now they're too short for even the small truck so don't
have hardly any functional use for one...even the JD 4440 w/ loader can
barely reach top row of tractor-trailer to load the front bales over the
drivers. It'll handle the drop bed section easily but that other 8" is
an effort--gotta' be sure to pick the base up at the very bottom edge
and hope it's not wrapped too loose...

--

"Bob Engelhardt" wrote in message
...
On 11/17/2014 2:21 PM, dpb wrote:
The origin of the species...

http://www.asabe.org/awards-landmarks/asabe-historic-landmarks/graham-hoeme-chisel-plow-38.aspx
...

I followed that a bit & came to wiki. One thing that it said was
that chisel plows require 10 - 15 hp PER shank/chisel! (Because
they go so deep - 8-10".)


http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cg...using&th=29547

On Mon, 17 Nov 2014 17:55:33 -0600, dpb wrote:

On 11/17/2014 5:14 PM, wrote:
...

A neighbour back on the farm when I was a teenager used a chisel
plough and a one-way disk. We used a mouldboard plough. The chisel
really made his big tractor bark!!! I pulled 3 bottoms with a 44
Massey, and 2 with a 540 Cockshutt. , the '49 44 outpulled the
lightweight 540 almost 2:1. The neighbour had a "big" ford (I think it
was a 1965 5000 D? About half again the horsepower of the 44, which
was about half again the power of the 540.

The one-way was a prime factor in the Dirty-30s being so dirty -- it was
about the only tool used back then out here and while very efficient had
the distinct disadvantage in dry years and a windy climate with sandy
soil of turning all the residue over and breaking the ground up into
very fine particles. With no ground cover to speak of and no
significant clodding, wind erosion was inevitable and once started,
impossible to stop w/o serious rain and a let up of the wind long enough
to establish cover again. That didn't happen for about five years back
then.

The chisel, otoh, doesn't bury the residue and creates clods in damp
soil, even in the sand here if not done to excess. Both of those are
far more resistant to blowing.

Earliest we had when I was large enough to do anything were Farmall M
and 400. The M was roughly 45 belt hp, the 400 about 40 or so drawbar.
We also at that time had Cat 22s that did row crop work with; pulled a
3-row JD lister and cultivator with them.

After the dry 50s broke in '58, upgraded to a Case 930 wheatland (90
drawbar roughly) and Farmall 560. The latter was a real disappointment
and didn't last long before got the first 4000-series JD. Grandad had a
little WD-45 Allis he used when he got where couldn't handle the M or
400 any longer but didn't want to quit entirely. Had a full line of
3-pt 8-ft equipment for it including a spring chisel. Having so much
equipment, Dad bought a D17 and I did a _lot_ of row crop with it all
thru high school. I keep looking for a decent one of them; for
nostalgia. They're just cute plus make a real nice little front loader
tractor although now they're too short for even the small truck so don't
have hardly any functional use for one...even the JD 4440 w/ loader can
barely reach top row of tractor-trailer to load the front bales over the
drivers. It'll handle the drop bed section easily but that other 8" is
an effort--gotta' be sure to pick the base up at the very bottom edge
and hope it's not wrapped too loose...
My kid brother has an old Allis D series - I think it's a 17 - about
a 1958 model?

On Mon, 17 Nov 2014 15:41:53 -0600, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

Leon Fisk wrote:
On Sun, 16 Nov 2014 17:57:06 -0600
"Terry Coombs" wrote:

I need to build well , "need" might be too strong ... some kind
of plow to pull behind my "new' tractor , and I'm thinking chisel
plow . 3 or 4 blades is probably going to be the most I can pull
with 17 hp , and I'm trying to form a basic design using some old
Chevy springs as the part that holds the actual plow blade . Basic
framework will likely be some 2X2 tubing , using some high-wheel
mower wheels as depth regulators (Isn't that how they work? Wheel
sets the depth?) . I'm not sure I'll even need to design a 3 point
hitch to use this type of plow ...


That's kind of a catchall term, chisel plow. Picture of a JD V-Ripper
he

http://www.ag-power.com/new-product/...e/915-v-ripper

If you're thinking of something like that (but smaller) it will still
take a lot of machine to pull it. It sounds like you want something
similar to their cultivator:

http://www.brinly.com/CC_56BH.html


Yup , that cultivator is very similar to what I have in mind . This is for
prepping my garden in spring , might see duty as a between-the-rows
cultivator too . I'll probably also use it so score the ground where I want
wild flowers and stuff planted for our bees . Not going to see really heavy
duty , at least that's not the plan now .

OT:
Whatcha planting for your bees? A client sent me a little jar of her
Lehua honey from Hawaii. Yum! Do you li'l guys produce honey for you
and do you and collect/use the beeswax? Top bar or Langstroth style
hives?

Back on topic:
Some scrap heavy duty angle iron and old leaf springs might be
cheaper, since you have extra time/less $$ now. I have a spare leaf
spring which I made into a woodsplitting tool, a froe. I was going to
make a nice, big slick (2-handed wood chisel) but Gunner gave one to
me when I was there last month. (Thanks, mon!) It's handy steel.


$199 snow plow blade, not too bad. But does your local steel scrap
yard have pieces of 48" (or 60?) pipe you could cut one from?
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Swisher-4...8749/203629508

--
I started out with nothing and
I still have most of it left!
--anon

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 17 Nov 2014 15:41:53 -0600, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

Leon Fisk wrote:
On Sun, 16 Nov 2014 17:57:06 -0600
"Terry Coombs" wrote:

I need to build well , "need" might be too strong ... some kind
of plow to pull behind my "new' tractor , and I'm thinking chisel
plow . 3 or 4 blades is probably going to be the most I can pull
with 17 hp , and I'm trying to form a basic design using some old
Chevy springs as the part that holds the actual plow blade . Basic
framework will likely be some 2X2 tubing , using some high-wheel
mower wheels as depth regulators (Isn't that how they work? Wheel
sets the depth?) . I'm not sure I'll even need to design a 3 point
hitch to use this type of plow ...


That's kind of a catchall term, chisel plow. Picture of a JD
V-Ripper he

http://www.ag-power.com/new-product/...e/915-v-ripper

If you're thinking of something like that (but smaller) it will
still take a lot of machine to pull it. It sounds like you want
something similar to their cultivator:

http://www.brinly.com/CC_56BH.html


Yup , that cultivator is very similar to what I have in mind . This
is for prepping my garden in spring , might see duty as a
between-the-rows cultivator too . I'll probably also use it so score
the ground where I want wild flowers and stuff planted for our bees
. Not going to see really heavy duty , at least that's not the plan
now .

OT:
Whatcha planting for your bees? A client sent me a little jar of her
Lehua honey from Hawaii. Yum! Do you li'l guys produce honey for you
and do you and collect/use the beeswax? Top bar or Langstroth style
hives?


I've got several types of flowering plants , including clover , penstemon
, alyssum , and a few more I can't remember .


Back on topic:
Some scrap heavy duty angle iron and old leaf springs might be
cheaper, since you have extra time/less $$ now. I have a spare leaf
spring which I made into a woodsplitting tool, a froe. I was going to
make a nice, big slick (2-handed wood chisel) but Gunner gave one to
me when I was there last month. (Thanks, mon!) It's handy steel.

I have a pair of springs from a mid/late 70's Camaro , should have enough
to make a froe and several knives after I get what I need for the cultivator
.. I also have a selection of structural shapes , I don't think I'll need to
buy anything but maybe a pair of wheels . One pair of decent wheels can be
swapped from device to device - trailer , log dragger , cultivator . Hey , I
can only use one at a time .


$199 snow plow blade, not too bad. But does your local steel scrap
yard have pieces of 48" (or 60?) pipe you could cut one from?
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Swisher-4...8749/203629508


Not sure why you suggested a plow blade ... this machine came with a swell
front plow , with "overload springs" so it tilts when it catches on
something . It can also be locked ... I used it to plow snow off my driveway
this morning . Not that it really needed to be plowed , but I wanted to try
it out before the need was dire . I found that the hydraulics can either
lock the blade in position or let it "float" depending on how the control
lever is positioned . Power down , I can lift the front end off the ground
.... and steer with the brakes .

This has been a very imformative thread , and I appreciate the input from
all who responded . I learned a lot ...
--
Snag

Larry Jaques wrote:
OT:
Whatcha planting for your bees? A client sent me a little jar of her
Lehua honey from Hawaii. Yum! Do you li'l guys produce honey for you
and do you and collect/use the beeswax? Top bar or Langstroth style
hives?


Forgot to say , I use Langstroth type hives , 2 deeps for brood and
mediums for honey production . We only have 1 hive so far , plan to split it
in the spring . I'll be selling cut-comb honey if/when we get enough to
harvest . More work for the bees than extracted honey as they must rebuild
come from scratch every time , but a lot of folks will pay a premium price .
And who knows , in a couple of years I may find it economically feasible to
start extracting some too .
--
Snag

"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
...
Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 17 Nov 2014 15:41:53 -0600, "Terry Coombs"

wrote:

Back on topic:
Some scrap heavy duty angle iron and old leaf springs might be
cheaper, since you have extra time/less $$ now. I have a spare
leaf
spring which I made into a woodsplitting tool, a froe. I was going
to
make a nice, big slick (2-handed wood chisel) but Gunner gave one
to
me when I was there last month. (Thanks, mon!) It's handy steel.

I have a pair of springs from a mid/late 70's Camaro , should have
enough to make a froe and several knives after I get what I need for
the cultivator . I also have a selection of structural shapes , I
don't think I'll need to buy anything but maybe a pair of wheels .
One pair of decent wheels can be swapped from device to device -
trailer , log dragger , cultivator . Hey , I can only use one at a
time .


What color do you temper the froe to where you bent it for the handle?
-jsw

On Mon, 17 Nov 2014 20:33:41 -0600, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 17 Nov 2014 15:41:53 -0600, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

Leon Fisk wrote:
On Sun, 16 Nov 2014 17:57:06 -0600
"Terry Coombs" wrote:

I need to build well , "need" might be too strong ... some kind
of plow to pull behind my "new' tractor , and I'm thinking chisel
plow . 3 or 4 blades is probably going to be the most I can pull
with 17 hp , and I'm trying to form a basic design using some old
Chevy springs as the part that holds the actual plow blade . Basic
framework will likely be some 2X2 tubing , using some high-wheel
mower wheels as depth regulators (Isn't that how they work? Wheel
sets the depth?) . I'm not sure I'll even need to design a 3 point
hitch to use this type of plow ...


That's kind of a catchall term, chisel plow. Picture of a JD
V-Ripper he

http://www.ag-power.com/new-product/...e/915-v-ripper

If you're thinking of something like that (but smaller) it will
still take a lot of machine to pull it. It sounds like you want
something similar to their cultivator:

http://www.brinly.com/CC_56BH.html


Yup , that cultivator is very similar to what I have in mind . This
is for prepping my garden in spring , might see duty as a
between-the-rows cultivator too . I'll probably also use it so score
the ground where I want wild flowers and stuff planted for our bees
. Not going to see really heavy duty , at least that's not the plan
now .

OT:
Whatcha planting for your bees? A client sent me a little jar of her
Lehua honey from Hawaii. Yum! Do you li'l guys produce honey for you
and do you and collect/use the beeswax? Top bar or Langstroth style
hives?


I've got several types of flowering plants , including clover , penstemon
, alyssum , and a few more I can't remember .


Back on topic:
Some scrap heavy duty angle iron and old leaf springs might be
cheaper, since you have extra time/less $$ now. I have a spare leaf
spring which I made into a woodsplitting tool, a froe. I was going to
make a nice, big slick (2-handed wood chisel) but Gunner gave one to
me when I was there last month. (Thanks, mon!) It's handy steel.

I have a pair of springs from a mid/late 70's Camaro , should have enough
to make a froe and several knives after I get what I need for the cultivator
. I also have a selection of structural shapes , I don't think I'll need to
buy anything but maybe a pair of wheels . One pair of decent wheels can be
swapped from device to device - trailer , log dragger , cultivator . Hey , I
can only use one at a time .

Whatever works!


$199 snow plow blade, not too bad. But does your local steel scrap
yard have pieces of 48" (or 60?) pipe you could cut one from?
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Swisher-4...8749/203629508


Not sure why you suggested a plow blade ... this machine came with a swell
front plow , with "overload springs" so it tilts when it catches on
something . It can also be locked ... I used it to plow snow off my driveway

I could have sworn you said you'd like to get one. My brain must have
farted on me. So solly.


this morning . Not that it really needed to be plowed , but I wanted to try
it out before the need was dire . I found that the hydraulics can either
lock the blade in position or let it "float" depending on how the control
lever is positioned . Power down , I can lift the front end off the ground
... and steer with the brakes .

This has been a very imformative thread , and I appreciate the input from
all who responded . I learned a lot ...

Yeah, fun thread. I've always wanted a tractor but haven't owned one,
yet. (Front end loader and backhoe)

--
I started out with nothing and
I still have most of it left!
--anon

On Mon, 17 Nov 2014 20:33:41 -0600, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 17 Nov 2014 15:41:53 -0600, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

Leon Fisk wrote:
On Sun, 16 Nov 2014 17:57:06 -0600
"Terry Coombs" wrote:

I need to build well , "need" might be too strong ... some kind
of plow to pull behind my "new' tractor , and I'm thinking chisel
plow . 3 or 4 blades is probably going to be the most I can pull
with 17 hp , and I'm trying to form a basic design using some old
Chevy springs as the part that holds the actual plow blade . Basic
framework will likely be some 2X2 tubing , using some high-wheel
mower wheels as depth regulators (Isn't that how they work? Wheel
sets the depth?) . I'm not sure I'll even need to design a 3 point
hitch to use this type of plow ...


That's kind of a catchall term, chisel plow. Picture of a JD
V-Ripper he

http://www.ag-power.com/new-product/...e/915-v-ripper

If you're thinking of something like that (but smaller) it will
still take a lot of machine to pull it. It sounds like you want
something similar to their cultivator:

http://www.brinly.com/CC_56BH.html


Yup , that cultivator is very similar to what I have in mind . This
is for prepping my garden in spring , might see duty as a
between-the-rows cultivator too . I'll probably also use it so score
the ground where I want wild flowers and stuff planted for our bees
. Not going to see really heavy duty , at least that's not the plan
now .

OT:
Whatcha planting for your bees? A client sent me a little jar of her
Lehua honey from Hawaii. Yum! Do you li'l guys produce honey for you
and do you and collect/use the beeswax? Top bar or Langstroth style
hives?


I've got several types of flowering plants , including clover , penstemon
, alyssum , and a few more I can't remember .


Back on topic:
Some scrap heavy duty angle iron and old leaf springs might be
cheaper, since you have extra time/less $$ now. I have a spare leaf
spring which I made into a woodsplitting tool, a froe. I was going to
make a nice, big slick (2-handed wood chisel) but Gunner gave one to
me when I was there last month. (Thanks, mon!) It's handy steel.

I have a pair of springs from a mid/late 70's Camaro , should have enough
to make a froe and several knives after I get what I need for the cultivator
. I also have a selection of structural shapes , I don't think I'll need to
buy anything but maybe a pair of wheels . One pair of decent wheels can be
swapped from device to device - trailer , log dragger , cultivator . Hey , I
can only use one at a time .

Its been said by the Nepalese that the best Kukri knives are made from
Mercedes leaf springs. These can be found at any junk yard




$199 snow plow blade, not too bad. But does your local steel scrap
yard have pieces of 48" (or 60?) pipe you could cut one from?
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Swisher-4...8749/203629508


Not sure why you suggested a plow blade ... this machine came with a swell
front plow , with "overload springs" so it tilts when it catches on
something . It can also be locked ... I used it to plow snow off my driveway
this morning . Not that it really needed to be plowed , but I wanted to try
it out before the need was dire . I found that the hydraulics can either
lock the blade in position or let it "float" depending on how the control
lever is positioned . Power down , I can lift the front end off the ground
... and steer with the brakes .

This has been a very imformative thread , and I appreciate the input from
all who responded . I learned a lot ...

"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child,
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats."
PJ O'Rourke

Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
...
Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 17 Nov 2014 15:41:53 -0600, "Terry Coombs"

wrote:

Back on topic:
Some scrap heavy duty angle iron and old leaf springs might be
cheaper, since you have extra time/less $$ now. I have a spare
leaf
spring which I made into a woodsplitting tool, a froe. I was going
to
make a nice, big slick (2-handed wood chisel) but Gunner gave one
to
me when I was there last month. (Thanks, mon!) It's handy steel.

I have a pair of springs from a mid/late 70's Camaro , should have
enough to make a froe and several knives after I get what I need for
the cultivator . I also have a selection of structural shapes , I
don't think I'll need to buy anything but maybe a pair of wheels .
One pair of decent wheels can be swapped from device to device -
trailer , log dragger , cultivator . Hey , I can only use one at a
time .


What color do you temper the froe to where you bent it for the handle?
-jsw

I haven't made one yet , but probably to a medium/dark straw color .

--
Snag

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 17 Nov 2014 20:33:41 -0600, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 17 Nov 2014 15:41:53 -0600, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

Leon Fisk wrote:
On Sun, 16 Nov 2014 17:57:06 -0600
"Terry Coombs" wrote:

I need to build well , "need" might be too strong ... some
kind of plow to pull behind my "new' tractor , and I'm thinking
chisel plow . 3 or 4 blades is probably going to be the most I
can pull with 17 hp , and I'm trying to form a basic design
using some old Chevy springs as the part that holds the actual
plow blade . Basic framework will likely be some 2X2 tubing ,
using some high-wheel mower wheels as depth regulators (Isn't
that how they work? Wheel sets the depth?) . I'm not sure I'll
even need to design a 3 point hitch to use this type of plow ...


That's kind of a catchall term, chisel plow. Picture of a JD
V-Ripper he

http://www.ag-power.com/new-product/...e/915-v-ripper

If you're thinking of something like that (but smaller) it will
still take a lot of machine to pull it. It sounds like you want
something similar to their cultivator:

http://www.brinly.com/CC_56BH.html


Yup , that cultivator is very similar to what I have in mind . This
is for prepping my garden in spring , might see duty as a
between-the-rows cultivator too . I'll probably also use it so
score the ground where I want wild flowers and stuff planted for
our bees . Not going to see really heavy duty , at least that's
not the plan now .

OT:
Whatcha planting for your bees? A client sent me a little jar of
her Lehua honey from Hawaii. Yum! Do you li'l guys produce honey
for you and do you and collect/use the beeswax? Top bar or
Langstroth style hives?


I've got several types of flowering plants , including clover ,
penstemon , alyssum , and a few more I can't remember .


Back on topic:
Some scrap heavy duty angle iron and old leaf springs might be
cheaper, since you have extra time/less $$ now. I have a spare leaf
spring which I made into a woodsplitting tool, a froe. I was going
to make a nice, big slick (2-handed wood chisel) but Gunner gave
one to me when I was there last month. (Thanks, mon!) It's handy
steel.

I have a pair of springs from a mid/late 70's Camaro , should have
enough to make a froe and several knives after I get what I need for
the cultivator . I also have a selection of structural shapes , I
don't think I'll need to buy anything but maybe a pair of wheels .
One pair of decent wheels can be swapped from device to device -
trailer , log dragger , cultivator . Hey , I can only use one at a
time .

Whatever works!


$199 snow plow blade, not too bad. But does your local steel scrap
yard have pieces of 48" (or 60?) pipe you could cut one from?
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Swisher-4...8749/203629508


Not sure why you suggested a plow blade ... this machine came with
a swell front plow , with "overload springs" so it tilts when it
catches on something . It can also be locked ... I used it to plow
snow off my driveway

I could have sworn you said you'd like to get one. My brain must have
farted on me. So solly.


this morning . Not that it really needed to be plowed , but I wanted
to try it out before the need was dire . I found that the hydraulics
can either lock the blade in position or let it "float" depending on
how the control lever is positioned . Power down , I can lift the
front end off the ground ... and steer with the brakes .

This has been a very imformative thread , and I appreciate the
input from all who responded . I learned a lot ...

Yeah, fun thread. I've always wanted a tractor but haven't owned one,
yet. (Front end loader and backhoe)

This whole adventure started about a month ago when my wife wanted to know
if I was still looking for a lawn mower ... well , it DOES have a mower deck
too ! I knew when I dragged it home that it was going to need several
hundred dollars in parts and repairs . I'm into it just over 400 bucks , and
AFAIK I don't need to buy any more parts . It's all labor and material on
hand now .

--
Snag

On Mon, 17 Nov 2014 19:57:25 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:


This has been a very imformative thread , and I appreciate the input from
all who responded . I learned a lot ...

Yeah, fun thread. I've always wanted a tractor but haven't owned one,
yet. (Front end loader and backhoe)

Bring a flatbed trailer down to Bakersfield...Ill bet we can find you
a tractor.. given the huge number of them simply used for property
line markers....

http://santabarbara.craigslist.org/grd/4766323715.html
Kubota 2200 Farm Tractor - $1960

Highly dependable tractor perfect for small scale farming (under 12
acres). Hydraulic loader and mower . 179 hours serviced every 50 . New
fuel filter and oil. 4WD
Call Jessica at (two zero 5)2one 2-1425, Thanks!!

http://santabarbara.craigslist.org/grd/4761168485.html

1941 Farmall H Tractor - $1250 (Buellton)
© craigslist - Map data © OpenStreetMap

(google map) (yahoo map)
Clearing out the old farm. Tractor has been stored inside for the last
10 yrs. was running a bit rough when mothballed. Stored inside barn.
Needs some tlc but everything is there. Has one new $500 rear tire and
hydraulic tool bar on rear.
805-245-3767

http://slo.craigslist.org/grd/4764801504.html

Ford Golden Jubilee Tractor - $2500 (Templeton)
image 1
image 1image 2image 3

condition: fair
Early 50's Ford tractor. Runs good... Will consider trade for larger
tractor.

$2500

http://slo.craigslist.org/grd/4764718557.html

International tractor - $5000 (Santa margarita)

I have a international 686 for sale I have used this tractor every
year to plant 10 acres of hay . It's rated 75 hp has class 2 3 point
dual hydraulics and runs great call josh at 8058684247


Click on this one and see if t he Stuff is too much money

http://slo.craigslist.org/grq/4763840294.html

Tractor Implements & More (Morro Bay)

condition: good
Disks, 4ft Quadivator wheel disk, $450, new 6ft med. duty tandem disk,
$1250** mowers, Gearmore 4ft finish mower, $895, Gearmore RC200-60SC
5ft rotory mower with slip clutch and chain gaurd kit, like new, used
only once, $1450, Tarter 4ft rotory like new, $1150, scrapers, new 6ft
HD Tarter w/rippers, $875, light duty 51/2 ft box scraper, no rippers,
$375, Gannon 41/2 ft 3way roll-over, very heavy duty, hard to find,
$750** New Holland 756-C detatchable backhoe,never used, $4500, older
compact Kubota 3pt backhoe,includes pto pump and tank and 2 buckets,
needs TLC, $875** 3pt fork, 3pt brush fork, $375 ea., small single
furrower,$195, wheels,bumpers, loader and implement parts, tires and
more, Bobcat and Kubota tractors in pics are also for sale?**call or
text only

http://visalia.craigslist.org/grd/4762759524.html
nice little 9 in Ford tractor - $2300 (Exeter )

condition: good
nice 9 in Ford tractor runs and works good for more information call
or text 559 788 8454 Thanks

http://visalia.craigslist.org/grd/4762095964.html
allis chalmers d15 Tractor - $2200 (tulare)
1960 d15 gas engine runs great. power steering snap coupler hitch good
rubber $2200 obo805008one


NICE!!! look at the photos!!
http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sgv...764681990.html

9N Ford Tractor - $4500 (Alta Loma)

condition: like new
Up for sale is a completely restored Ford 9N tractor. This machine has
been re-built from the ground up and is as close to new as it can be.
The restoration was done a few years ago, but it has been stored
inside and has very few hours on it. The engine was completely done
with new crankshaft , main and rod bearings, reconditioned rods, new
sleeves and pistons, new oil pump, new water pump, new carburetor, new
muffler, and of course all new seals and gaskets. The trans and
hydraulic system were completely gone through as well. It has twelve
volt electrics. All of the front sheet metal is new, and of course the
entire machine was stripped and painted. Front and rear tires as well
as the front wheels are new, and the tires still have the mold tips on
them( that's how little it's been run!). The battery was just replaced
today, so it's as fresh as it can be. This thing runs absolutely
perfect. It also comes with a scraper attachment that has retractable
ripper teeth(not pictured). No low ballers please, but if you're
interested please call with a reasonable offer!
http://slo.craigslist.org/grd/4763368912.html

etc etc. Go north from me to Sacramento...the tractors are everywhere
and often for so little money the owners dont bother to even post em
for sale


"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child,
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats."
PJ O'Rourke

On 11/17/2014 7:27 PM, wrote:
....

My kid brother has an old Allis D series - I think it's a 17 - about
a 1958 model?

That'd be early one; first series was '57 thru '59 or perhaps '60;
stayed in production thru the Series IV up to about '69 or '70...ours
was a Series II in '60 or '61.

--

On Mon, 17 Nov 2014 23:59:49 -0600, dpb wrote:

On 11/17/2014 7:27 PM, wrote:
...

My kid brother has an old Allis D series - I think it's a 17 - about
a 1958 model?

That'd be early one; first series was '57 thru '59 or perhaps '60;
stayed in production thru the Series IV up to about '69 or '70...ours
was a Series II in '60 or '61.
The stove on his manifold was burned through - didn't run worth squat
'till I found him a new manifold. Too much EGR!!!
He's got one of those crappy old British International tractors too -
a B414 diesel with a front end loader. Darn things never did steer
well with a loader on them - you need biceps like Popeye. Miserable
things to start anything below about 55 F too. - even with new glo
plugs.(and almost perfect compression).

On Mon, 17 Nov 2014 22:47:43 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
...
Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 17 Nov 2014 15:41:53 -0600, "Terry Coombs"

wrote:

Back on topic:
Some scrap heavy duty angle iron and old leaf springs might be
cheaper, since you have extra time/less $$ now. I have a spare
leaf
spring which I made into a woodsplitting tool, a froe. I was going
to
make a nice, big slick (2-handed wood chisel) but Gunner gave one
to
me when I was there last month. (Thanks, mon!) It's handy steel.

I have a pair of springs from a mid/late 70's Camaro , should have
enough to make a froe and several knives after I get what I need for
the cultivator . I also have a selection of structural shapes , I
don't think I'll need to buy anything but maybe a pair of wheels .
One pair of decent wheels can be swapped from device to device -
trailer , log dragger , cultivator . Hey , I can only use one at a
time .


What color do you temper the froe to where you bent it for the handle?

Me lazy. Me use preformed eye. Then I found a nice crooked (I think
it was Madrone) branch to fit it, angled out to let the maul clear my
hand.

--
I started out with nothing and
I still have most of it left!
--anon

On Mon, 17 Nov 2014 22:14:38 -0600, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
...
Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 17 Nov 2014 15:41:53 -0600, "Terry Coombs"

wrote:

Back on topic:
Some scrap heavy duty angle iron and old leaf springs might be
cheaper, since you have extra time/less $$ now. I have a spare
leaf
spring which I made into a woodsplitting tool, a froe. I was going
to
make a nice, big slick (2-handed wood chisel) but Gunner gave one
to
me when I was there last month. (Thanks, mon!) It's handy steel.

I have a pair of springs from a mid/late 70's Camaro , should have
enough to make a froe and several knives after I get what I need for
the cultivator . I also have a selection of structural shapes , I
don't think I'll need to buy anything but maybe a pair of wheels .
One pair of decent wheels can be swapped from device to device -
trailer , log dragger , cultivator . Hey , I can only use one at a
time .


What color do you temper the froe to where you bent it for the handle?
-jsw

I haven't made one yet , but probably to a medium/dark straw color .

I think everything I've ever tempered has been at that straw color.

--
I started out with nothing and
I still have most of it left!
--anon

On Mon, 17 Nov 2014 22:20:23 -0600, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:
Yeah, fun thread. I've always wanted a tractor but haven't owned one,
yet. (Front end loader and backhoe)

This whole adventure started about a month ago when my wife wanted to know
if I was still looking for a lawn mower ... well , it DOES have a mower deck
too ! I knew when I dragged it home that it was going to need several
hundred dollars in parts and repairs . I'm into it just over 400 bucks , and
AFAIK I don't need to buy any more parts . It's all labor and material on
hand now .

I probably would have done the same thing, had I stumbled across the
deal you did. You suck. Carry on!

--
I started out with nothing and
I still have most of it left!
--anon

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 17 Nov 2014 22:20:23 -0600, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:
Yeah, fun thread. I've always wanted a tractor but haven't owned
one, yet. (Front end loader and backhoe)

This whole adventure started about a month ago when my wife wanted
to know if I was still looking for a lawn mower ... well , it DOES
have a mower deck too ! I knew when I dragged it home that it was
going to need several hundred dollars in parts and repairs . I'm
into it just over 400 bucks , and AFAIK I don't need to buy any more
parts . It's all labor and material on hand now .

I probably would have done the same thing, had I stumbled across the
deal you did. You suck. Carry on!

Wrong , I slurp .

--
Snag

On Mon, 17 Nov 2014 20:35:35 -0800, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Mon, 17 Nov 2014 19:57:25 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:


This has been a very imformative thread , and I appreciate the input from
all who responded . I learned a lot ...

Yeah, fun thread. I've always wanted a tractor but haven't owned one,
yet. (Front end loader and backhoe)

Bring a flatbed trailer down to Bakersfield...Ill bet we can find you

Remember the $600 rental fee? sigh


a tractor.. given the huge number of them simply used for property
line markers....

Hey, I never said I could afford one. If I could, I'd have one by now.

--
I started out with nothing and
I still have most of it left!
--anon

On Mon, 17 Nov 2014 21:18:09 -0600, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:
OT:
Whatcha planting for your bees? A client sent me a little jar of her
Lehua honey from Hawaii. Yum! Do you li'l guys produce honey for you
and do you and collect/use the beeswax? Top bar or Langstroth style
hives?


Forgot to say , I use Langstroth type hives , 2 deeps for brood and
mediums for honey production . We only have 1 hive so far , plan to split it
in the spring . I'll be selling cut-comb honey if/when we get enough to
harvest . More work for the bees than extracted honey as they must rebuild
come from scratch every time , but a lot of folks will pay a premium price .

Honey is going for premium prices nowadays.


And who knows , in a couple of years I may find it economically feasible to
start extracting some too .

At least for yourself, eh?

Check eBay pricing on extractors. I picked up a smoker and toolset in
case I ever start raising bees. They fascinate me.

--
I started out with nothing and
I still have most of it left!
--anon

On 11/18/2014 12:20 AM, wrote:
On Mon, 17 Nov 2014 23:59:49 -0600, wrote:

On 11/17/2014 7:27 PM, wrote:
...

My kid brother has an old Allis D series - I think it's a 17 - about
a 1958 model?

That'd be early one; first series was '57 thru '59 or perhaps '60;
stayed in production thru the Series IV up to about '69 or '70...ours
was a Series II in '60 or '61.
The stove on his manifold was burned through - didn't run worth squat
'till I found him a new manifold. Too much EGR!!!
He's got one of those crappy old British International tractors too -
a B414 diesel with a front end loader. Darn things never did steer
well with a loader on them - you need biceps like Popeye. Miserable
things to start anything below about 55 F too. - even with new glo
plugs.(and almost perfect compression).

"Know nuthink!" about British International but one had to be a man
before power steering on any of 'em. The little WD45 was bad enough,
the old Twin City steel wheel was nearly impossible to get out of a
furrow in the sand out here. It was relegated to the equipment line by
the time I was working in fields but it still ran and used it some for
spot duty. Even around the farmstead on hard ground was all I could do
to turn it at all at age 12 or so...

--

On Tue, 18 Nov 2014 07:25:55 -0600, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 17 Nov 2014 22:20:23 -0600, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:
Yeah, fun thread. I've always wanted a tractor but haven't owned
one, yet. (Front end loader and backhoe)

This whole adventure started about a month ago when my wife wanted
to know if I was still looking for a lawn mower ... well , it DOES
have a mower deck too ! I knew when I dragged it home that it was
going to need several hundred dollars in parts and repairs . I'm
into it just over 400 bucks , and AFAIK I don't need to buy any more
parts . It's all labor and material on hand now .

I probably would have done the same thing, had I stumbled across the
deal you did. You suck. Carry on!

Wrong , I slurp .

g Don't we all, whenever possible?

--
I started out with nothing and
I still have most of it left!
--anon

On Tue, 18 Nov 2014 08:33:22 -0600, dpb wrote:

On 11/18/2014 12:20 AM, wrote:
On Mon, 17 Nov 2014 23:59:49 -0600, wrote:

On 11/17/2014 7:27 PM, wrote:
...

My kid brother has an old Allis D series - I think it's a 17 - about
a 1958 model?

That'd be early one; first series was '57 thru '59 or perhaps '60;
stayed in production thru the Series IV up to about '69 or '70...ours
was a Series II in '60 or '61.
The stove on his manifold was burned through - didn't run worth squat
'till I found him a new manifold. Too much EGR!!!
He's got one of those crappy old British International tractors too -
a B414 diesel with a front end loader. Darn things never did steer
well with a loader on them - you need biceps like Popeye. Miserable
things to start anything below about 55 F too. - even with new glo
plugs.(and almost perfect compression).

"Know nuthink!" about British International but one had to be a man
before power steering on any of 'em. The little WD45 was bad enough,
the old Twin City steel wheel was nearly impossible to get out of a
furrow in the sand out here. It was relegated to the equipment line by
the time I was working in fields but it still ran and used it some for
spot duty. Even around the farmstead on hard ground was all I could do
to turn it at all at age 12 or so...
The old Massy was easy to turn compared to the 540. We had a big
counterweight on the back, but you still pretty well had to have the
bucket on the ground to turn the front wheels. The Massy was something
like 8 or 10 turns lock to lock, from what I remember, and the 540
and the B414 were closer to 6

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Tue, 18 Nov 2014 07:25:55 -0600, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 17 Nov 2014 22:20:23 -0600, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:
Yeah, fun thread. I've always wanted a tractor but haven't owned
one, yet. (Front end loader and backhoe)

This whole adventure started about a month ago when my wife wanted
to know if I was still looking for a lawn mower ... well , it DOES
have a mower deck too ! I knew when I dragged it home that it was
going to need several hundred dollars in parts and repairs . I'm
into it just over 400 bucks , and AFAIK I don't need to buy any
more parts . It's all labor and material on hand now .

I probably would have done the same thing, had I stumbled across the
deal you did. You suck. Carry on!

Wrong , I slurp .

g Don't we all, whenever possible?

Oh you're one cunning linguist , you are !

--
Snag

On Tue, 18 Nov 2014 12:27:07 -0500, wrote:

On Tue, 18 Nov 2014 08:33:22 -0600, dpb wrote:

On 11/18/2014 12:20 AM, wrote:
On Mon, 17 Nov 2014 23:59:49 -0600, wrote:

On 11/17/2014 7:27 PM, wrote:
...

My kid brother has an old Allis D series - I think it's a 17 - about
a 1958 model?

That'd be early one; first series was '57 thru '59 or perhaps '60;
stayed in production thru the Series IV up to about '69 or '70...ours
was a Series II in '60 or '61.
The stove on his manifold was burned through - didn't run worth squat
'till I found him a new manifold. Too much EGR!!!
He's got one of those crappy old British International tractors too -
a B414 diesel with a front end loader. Darn things never did steer
well with a loader on them - you need biceps like Popeye. Miserable
things to start anything below about 55 F too. - even with new glo
plugs.(and almost perfect compression).

"Know nuthink!" about British International but one had to be a man
before power steering on any of 'em. The little WD45 was bad enough,
the old Twin City steel wheel was nearly impossible to get out of a
furrow in the sand out here. It was relegated to the equipment line by
the time I was working in fields but it still ran and used it some for
spot duty. Even around the farmstead on hard ground was all I could do
to turn it at all at age 12 or so...
The old Massy was easy to turn compared to the 540. We had a big
counterweight on the back, but you still pretty well had to have the
bucket on the ground to turn the front wheels. The Massy was something
like 8 or 10 turns lock to lock, from what I remember, and the 540
and the B414 were closer to 6

When I was 10-12 and started driving, we had two old Massey-Harris's
(about 50 hp) and a JD D-model popping johnny. They were all bears at
that age. Especially the first time over a cut over rice field. I
remember pulling a 3-bottom plow once, never used one again.

I once broke two of the hub mounting bolts on a Case 932 (row crop
version) when I fell in some ruts from a stuck JD 5010. The whole
damned tractor with its Taylor-Weigh (sp?) disc-plow spun 90 degrees
and dropped in the ruts. No way out but to follow them out.

When I came out the other end, I noticed the left wheel precessing in
a big arc. We fixed that, then the next day, the front wheels rotated
under because the row crop clamps weren't up to cut over rice field
duty. My great uncle Bill (same guy who made the awful Austin
lawnmowers) welded them solid with nickel rod.

The next day he got to apply the same treatment to the arms on the
splined sockets on top the front wheel spindles. This was on one
measly 26 acre field. Took a week counting the repairs. Never
underestimate the havoc cutting a field wet can create.

Pete Keillor

(above formatted for Lloyd )

On Tue, 18 Nov 2014 12:56:31 -0600, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Tue, 18 Nov 2014 07:25:55 -0600, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 17 Nov 2014 22:20:23 -0600, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:
Yeah, fun thread. I've always wanted a tractor but haven't owned
one, yet. (Front end loader and backhoe)

This whole adventure started about a month ago when my wife wanted
to know if I was still looking for a lawn mower ... well , it DOES
have a mower deck too ! I knew when I dragged it home that it was
going to need several hundred dollars in parts and repairs . I'm
into it just over 400 bucks , and AFAIK I don't need to buy any
more parts . It's all labor and material on hand now .

I probably would have done the same thing, had I stumbled across the
deal you did. You suck. Carry on!

Wrong , I slurp .

g Don't we all, whenever possible?

Oh you're one cunning linguist , you are !

You bet! (I smiled, while licking my eyebrows, and she giggles)
I seldom wash afterward, either. I like her scent on my mustache.

--
I started out with nothing and
I still have most of it left!
--anon

On Tue, 18 Nov 2014 17:07:30 -0600, Pete Keillor
wrote:

On Tue, 18 Nov 2014 12:27:07 -0500, wrote:

On Tue, 18 Nov 2014 08:33:22 -0600, dpb wrote:

On 11/18/2014 12:20 AM, wrote:
On Mon, 17 Nov 2014 23:59:49 -0600, wrote:

On 11/17/2014 7:27 PM, wrote:
...

My kid brother has an old Allis D series - I think it's a 17 - about
a 1958 model?

That'd be early one; first series was '57 thru '59 or perhaps '60;
stayed in production thru the Series IV up to about '69 or '70...ours
was a Series II in '60 or '61.
The stove on his manifold was burned through - didn't run worth squat
'till I found him a new manifold. Too much EGR!!!
He's got one of those crappy old British International tractors too -
a B414 diesel with a front end loader. Darn things never did steer
well with a loader on them - you need biceps like Popeye. Miserable
things to start anything below about 55 F too. - even with new glo
plugs.(and almost perfect compression).

"Know nuthink!" about British International but one had to be a man
before power steering on any of 'em. The little WD45 was bad enough,
the old Twin City steel wheel was nearly impossible to get out of a
furrow in the sand out here. It was relegated to the equipment line by
the time I was working in fields but it still ran and used it some for
spot duty. Even around the farmstead on hard ground was all I could do
to turn it at all at age 12 or so...
The old Massy was easy to turn compared to the 540. We had a big
counterweight on the back, but you still pretty well had to have the
bucket on the ground to turn the front wheels. The Massy was something
like 8 or 10 turns lock to lock, from what I remember, and the 540
and the B414 were closer to 6

When I was 10-12 and started driving, we had two old Massey-Harris's
(about 50 hp) and a JD D-model popping johnny. They were all bears at
that age. Especially the first time over a cut over rice field. I
remember pulling a 3-bottom plow once, never used one again.

I once broke two of the hub mounting bolts on a Case 932 (row crop
version) when I fell in some ruts from a stuck JD 5010. The whole
damned tractor with its Taylor-Weigh (sp?) disc-plow spun 90 degrees
and dropped in the ruts. No way out but to follow them out.

When I came out the other end, I noticed the left wheel precessing in
a big arc. We fixed that, then the next day, the front wheels rotated
under because the row crop clamps weren't up to cut over rice field
duty. My great uncle Bill (same guy who made the awful Austin
lawnmowers) welded them solid with nickel rod.

The next day he got to apply the same treatment to the arms on the
splined sockets on top the front wheel spindles. This was on one
measly 26 acre field. Took a week counting the repairs. Never
underestimate the havoc cutting a field wet can create.

Pete Keillor

(above formatted for Lloyd )
Took off the front axle on the 540 hitting a groundhog hole hidden by
a windrow of hay- - -

"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
news
I need to build well , "need" might be too strong ... some kind of plow
to pull behind my "new' tractor , and I'm thinking chisel plow . 3 or 4
blades is probably going to be the most I can pull with 17 hp , and I'm
trying to form a basic design using some old Chevy springs as the part
that holds the actual plow blade . Basic framework will likely be some 2X2
tubing , using some high-wheel mower wheels as depth regulators (Isn't
that how they work? Wheel sets the depth?) . I'm not sure I'll even need
to design a 3 point hitch to use this type of plow ...

--
Snag


What type of equipment do you have now?

3 or 4 blades might be a bit optimistic unless you have an unusually low
first gear, 4wd, a lot of ballast, and light soil.

If you have a rake you might be able to make a bolt on a plow with a leaf
spring (other other suitable vertical bar) and a plow point bought cheap off
Ebay. Turn the rake bar over or remove the tines.

I did rough bed shaping for a winter garden with my rake by just removing
(turning over) most of the rake tines leaving 4 in the middle and 3 on each
end. Even with my 4wd 30HP John Deere it would spin tires if I didn't lift
the rake slightly at the end of the rows when the tractor came up over the
berm.

Next time I till and shape the garden I'm going to try 3 plow points set in
front of the rake and 8-10 inches below the tines. Yes, bought off Ebay and
mounted to leaf springs as verticals. LOL.