I had a huge struggle with soldering a couple of DB-9 connectors, my
vision and fine motor control just aren't what they used to be. And, I
only had to make 5 connections on the DB-9's, it took me close to an
hour. These are for a DRO, I've been using a break-out box until now on
the mismatched scales and display. Remember, the display bit the dust a
while ago.

I did have the connectors locked in a miniature vice but I couldn't
think of any other techniques that would help.

Ya caught up to me, old man.

Had the same issue a couple years back, especially DoN and a few
others on RCM turned me on to crimp connector pins that are then
pushed into the special DBxx connectors. I'm having a senior moment
right now, do remember the name of the sytem, should remember by
morning. if this is a one time thing for you, I'll mail the stuff and
you can send it back when done.

If you are soldering something like a header into a board, you could
be FUBAR. My solution was easy, I begged Don Forman for help.


Karl

on 16/05/2014, Tom Gardner supposed :
I had a huge struggle with soldering a couple of DB-9 connectors, my vision
and fine motor control just aren't what they used to be. And, I only had to
make 5 connections on the DB-9's, it took me close to an hour. These are for
a DRO, I've been using a break-out box until now on the mismatched scales and
display. Remember, the display bit the dust a while ago.

I did have the connectors locked in a miniature vice but I couldn't think of
any other techniques that would help.

Just a start. You will have to find the size you need and male or fmale
and the bodies to use.

http://www.jameco.com/1/3/crimp-pins

--
John G

On 5/16/2014 2:16 AM, Karl Townsend wrote:
Ya caught up to me, old man.

Had the same issue a couple years back, especially DoN and a few
others on RCM turned me on to crimp connector pins that are then
pushed into the special DBxx connectors. I'm having a senior moment
right now, do remember the name of the sytem, should remember by
morning. if this is a one time thing for you, I'll mail the stuff and
you can send it back when done.

If you are soldering something like a header into a board, you could
be FUBAR. My solution was easy, I begged Don Forman for help.


Karl



Yep, seen those somewhere, I run into this kind of stuff once in a while
and I'm set...'till the next time. It's just a bitch to lose a skill
and I think I should be able to develop a methodology without calling on
a younger set of eyes and hands. I'm getting a lot more typos too! I
told my sister just tonight the first three words to be spoken at my
funeral. "He's DEAD Jim!"

Tom Gardner wrote:
I had a huge struggle with soldering a couple of DB-9 connectors, my
vision and fine motor control just aren't what they used to be. And,
I only had to make 5 connections on the DB-9's, it took me close to an
hour. These are for a DRO, I've been using a break-out box until now
on the mismatched scales and display. Remember, the display bit the
dust a while ago.

I did have the connectors locked in a miniature vice but I couldn't
think of any other techniques that would help.

I use a magnifier with a circular flourescent bulb . I find it helps if I
can actually SEE what I'm soldering . Just finished assembling a K179
stepper motor driver board ...

--
Snag

Tom Gardner wrote:

I had a huge struggle with soldering a couple of DB-9 connectors, my
vision and fine motor control just aren't what they used to be. And, I
only had to make 5 connections on the DB-9's, it took me close to an
hour. These are for a DRO, I've been using a break-out box until now on
the mismatched scales and display. Remember, the display bit the dust a
while ago.

I did have the connectors locked in a miniature vice but I couldn't
think of any other techniques that would help.

I switched to using the crimp type D-sub connectors.

On Fri, 16 May 2014 04:48:54 -0400, Tom Gardner Mars@Tacks wrote:

On 5/16/2014 2:16 AM, Karl Townsend wrote:
Ya caught up to me, old man.

Had the same issue a couple years back, especially DoN and a few
others on RCM turned me on to crimp connector pins that are then
pushed into the special DBxx connectors. I'm having a senior moment
right now, do remember the name of the sytem, should remember by
morning. if this is a one time thing for you, I'll mail the stuff and
you can send it back when done.

If you are soldering something like a header into a board, you could
be FUBAR. My solution was easy, I begged Don Forman for help.


Karl



Yep, seen those somewhere, I run into this kind of stuff once in a while
and I'm set...'till the next time. It's just a bitch to lose a skill
and I think I should be able to develop a methodology without calling on
a younger set of eyes and hands. I'm getting a lot more typos too! I
told my sister just tonight the first three words to be spoken at my
funeral. "He's DEAD Jim!"

Laugh loud and perspire, Tawm. (Vulcan curse)

--
We cannot but pity the boy who has never fired a gun; he is
no more humane, while his education has been sadly neglected.
--Henry David Thoreau

On Fri, 16 May 2014 04:48:54 -0400, Tom Gardner Mars@Tacks wrote:

On 5/16/2014 2:16 AM, Karl Townsend wrote:
Ya caught up to me, old man.

Had the same issue a couple years back, especially DoN and a few
others on RCM turned me on to crimp connector pins that are then
pushed into the special DBxx connectors. I'm having a senior moment
right now, do remember the name of the sytem, should remember by
morning. if this is a one time thing for you, I'll mail the stuff and
you can send it back when done.

If you are soldering something like a header into a board, you could
be FUBAR. My solution was easy, I begged Don Forman for help.


Karl



Yep, seen those somewhere, I run into this kind of stuff once in a while
and I'm set...'till the next time. It's just a bitch to lose a skill
and I think I should be able to develop a methodology without calling on
a younger set of eyes and hands. I'm getting a lot more typos too! I
told my sister just tonight the first three words to be spoken at my
funeral. "He's DEAD Jim!"

Oops, forgot to address the former. Yes, it's a bitch. I bought a new
set of eyes. http://tinyurl.com/cvytr6l They work very well, too!
The hands are getting shakier as I age, though.

--
We cannot but pity the boy who has never fired a gun; he is
no more humane, while his education has been sadly neglected.
--Henry David Thoreau

"Tom Gardner" Mars@Tacks wrote in message
...
I had a huge struggle with soldering a couple of DB-9 connectors, my
vision and fine motor control just aren't what they used to be. And,
I only had to make 5 connections on the DB-9's, it took me close to
an hour. These are for a DRO, I've been using a break-out box until
now on the mismatched scales and display. Remember, the display bit
the dust a while ago.

I did have the connectors locked in a miniature vice but I couldn't
think of any other techniques that would help.

I use a small drillpress-type vise which puts the work low enough that
I can rest my hands on the static mat.
This is the type, but not the price I paid.
http://www.amazon.com/Drill-Press-Vi.../dp/B00C73DQ6I

For DB connectors I stand the vise on end and solder the upper row,
then flip the connector. I darken the end pin numbers with a marker
and wipe the raised numerals off to leave them legible against a dark
background.

A headband magnifier that retains my binocular vision and depth
perception helps a lot. I have trouble soldering under a magnifier or
microscope that affects depth perception.

You could try Vise-Grips gently tightened on the connector with the
screw and held upright by a larger vise.

jsw

On Friday, May 16, 2014 1:33:24 AM UTC-4, Tom Gardner wrote:
I had a huge struggle with soldering a couple of DB-9 connectors, my

vision and fine motor control just aren't what they used to be. And, I

only had to make 5 connections on the DB-9's, it took me close to an

hour. These are for a DRO, I've been using a break-out box until now on

the mismatched scales and display. Remember, the display bit the dust a

while ago.



I did have the connectors locked in a miniature vice but I couldn't

think of any other techniques that would help.


Things that works well for me:
1) Start out with either a new solder-cup connector or one that has had ALL the solder removed.
2) Strip and tin the wires, then cut the tinned par to length. Depending on the wire, the insulation may melt back from the end when you tin it.
3) slip a short piece of heat-shrink tubing on each wire
4) tack each wire in place WITHOUT adding additional solder
5) go back and add solder as necessary
6) shrink all the tubing

Using a magnifier and a good light makes all the difference.

If you think THIS is fun, last year I soldered a 36 pin .5mm pitch connector by hand - with a microscope and a very pointy soldering tip.

BTW, for exactly this kind of stuff, last time I ordered from Zenni, I got a pair made with my reading prescription plus two extra diopters. This is way better than any clip-ons or drugstore glasses as it has my exact prescription, astigmatism and all, and cost all of $7.00. Highly recommended.

Yep, seen those somewhere, I run into this kind of stuff once in a while
and I'm set...'till the next time. It's just a bitch to lose a skill
and I think I should be able to develop a methodology without calling on
a younger set of eyes and hands. I'm getting a lot more typos too! I
told my sister just tonight the first three words to be spoken at my
funeral. "He's DEAD Jim!"

Get used to losing skills and stuff. Gettin' old ain't for pussies. In
this case, go to the crimp system next time. You can borrow my stuff
if you like.

I can hardly see to weld. I did find if I grind a huge "V" I can feel
it with the stick. For soldering, have you seen the dial indicator
holder that just takes one hand knob to tighten the whole thing? They
are just tits. Anyway, put an allegator clamp in place of the
indicator, hold the thing in place and tighten - it won't move even a
couple thou. maybe get one for the other part too.
http://www.mscdirect.com/product/det...60426&fromRR=Y

You may choke on the price, but THEY ARE WORTH EVERY PENNY.

Karl

P.S. I'm starting to lose all sorts of things. Of all the things I've
lost, I miss my mind the most.

Tom Gardner wrote:

I had a huge struggle with soldering a couple of DB-9 connectors, my
vision and fine motor control just aren't what they used to be. And, I
only had to make 5 connections on the DB-9's, it took me close to an
hour. These are for a DRO, I've been using a break-out box until now on
the mismatched scales and display. Remember, the display bit the dust a
while ago.

I did have the connectors locked in a miniature vice but I couldn't
think of any other techniques that would help.


I hold them in a drill press vise, and tin the wires before assembly.
A little solder in the cups of the pins I need to use, and a drop of
liquid rosin flux over the solder. Then touch a hot soldering iron to
the solder on the pin and insert the pretinned wire. The flux allows a
clean flow, and a little IPA will clean it up when I'm done.

BTW, it isn't a DB-9, it is a DE-9. The second letter is the shell
size. The common 25 pin shell is a 'B'. The SVGA monitor plug is a
HDE-15.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/D-subminiature


PS: Have you ever seen any of these?

http://www.project-parts.com/itempix/450-040A.jpg


--
Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to
have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.

---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
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John G wrote:
on 16/05/2014, Tom Gardner supposed :
I had a huge struggle with soldering a couple of DB-9 connectors, my vision
and fine motor control just aren't what they used to be. And, I only had to
make 5 connections on the DB-9's, it took me close to an hour. These are for
a DRO, I've been using a break-out box until now on the mismatched scales and
display. Remember, the display bit the dust a while ago.

I did have the connectors locked in a miniature vice but I couldn't think of
any other techniques that would help.

Just a start. You will have to find the size you need and male or fmale
and the bodies to use.

http://www.jameco.com/1/3/crimp-pins


You can also get crimp style DB connectors at radio shack. Easy access
for those times you only need a couple.

--
Steve W.

On Fri, 16 May 2014 01:33:24 -0400, Tom Gardner wrote:

I had a huge struggle with soldering a couple of DB-9 connectors, my
vision and fine motor control just aren't what they used to be. And, I
only had to make 5 connections on the DB-9's, it took me close to an
hour. These are for a DRO, I've been using a break-out box until now on
the mismatched scales and display. Remember, the display bit the dust a
while ago.

I did have the connectors locked in a miniature vice but I couldn't
think of any other techniques that would help.

Try using some sort of magnifier. I have an assembly microscope with
something like 6x or 10x magnification. Not only does it help my vision,
but when I get a component with a pair of tweezers into the field of
view, my hands stop shaking and it goes right where it belongs.

If that doesn't work, hire a kid to do it!

--

Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
http://www.wescottdesign.com

"Tom Gardner" Mars@Tacks wrote in message
...
I had a huge struggle with soldering a couple of DB-9 connectors, my
vision and fine motor control just aren't what they used to be. And, I
only had to make 5 connections on the DB-9's, it took me close to an hour.
These are for a DRO, I've been using a break-out box until now on the
mismatched scales and display. Remember, the display bit the dust a while
ago.

I did have the connectors locked in a miniature vice but I couldn't think
of any other techniques that would help.

I have always had some issue with D-Sub connectors. I've found that
ergonomics is key. I always try to clamp it up so that I can rest my hands
or forearms on something to work. I have a roll of very thin rosin core for
this work. Reading glasses are mandatory now, but not that many years I
just needed to work in a well lit area. I tin the wires, and the pins, then
with every thing ready I only need to line everything up for a second and it
flows together. Doing it sitting down at a table or desk seems to work the
best.

That being said there are pin crimp D-Subs connectors available, and
sometimes I use them. Especially with assemblies I can't easily move to
the work bench. Radio Shack sells the fine solder I use. They also have
pin crimp tools and pin crimp D-Subs last time I looked.

On 5/15/2014 10:33 PM, Tom Gardner wrote:
I had a huge struggle with soldering a couple of DB-9 connectors, my
vision and fine motor control just aren't what they used to be. And, I
only had to make 5 connections on the DB-9's, it took me close to an
hour. These are for a DRO, I've been using a break-out box until now on
the mismatched scales and display. Remember, the display bit the dust a
while ago.

I did have the connectors locked in a miniature vice but I couldn't
think of any other techniques that would help.
As others have written, use the crimp pins and connectors. However, that
brings in new problems. You will need to get at least TWO of the pin
removal tools because the first one will break when you need it most.

Paul

Tom Gardner wrote:

I had a huge struggle with soldering a couple of DB-9 connectors, my
vision and fine motor control just aren't what they used to be. And, I
only had to make 5 connections on the DB-9's, it took me close to an
hour. These are for a DRO, I've been using a break-out box until now on
the mismatched scales and display. Remember, the display bit the dust a
while ago.

I did have the connectors locked in a miniature vice but I couldn't
think of any other techniques that would help.
Well, the right tools really help. Since I do this stuff for a living,
I have the RIGHT tools for this stuff. Resting the wrist or forearm on
something so you only need to move the fingers a bit should help. Doing
fine soldering "freehand", where you have no support except at the shoulder
is going to be really hard! I probably do this so much by reflex I
am not even aware I am using such support.

Of course, I do stuff way smaller than a typical D connector, then I have
to use a microscope, tweezers, etc.

Jon

"Michael A. Terrell" wrote in message
m...
...
BTW, it isn't a DB-9, it is a DE-9. The second letter is the shell
size. The common 25 pin shell is a 'B'. The SVGA monitor plug is a
HDE-15.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/D-subminiature

What happened when you lectured the engineers about their errors?

jsw

Jim Wilkins wrote:

"Michael A. Terrell" ? wrote in message
m...
? ...
? BTW, it isn't a DB-9, it is a DE-9. The second letter is the shell
? size. The common 25 pin shell is a 'B'. The SVGA monitor plug is a
? HDE-15.
?
? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/D-subminiature

What happened when you lectured the engineers about their errors?


Our engineers already knew the proper names. After all, some of the
parts had been in the inventory database for over 30 years. They had
about 40 variations in the stockroom. We used quite a few with coaxial
inserts, since we built modular microwave receivers.


--
Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to
have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.

---
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http://www.avast.com

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...

I have always had some issue with D-Sub connectors.

If you found soldering D-Subs frustrating, these would have you raging
through the engineering cubicles swinging an axe:
http://www.binder-usa.com/product-li...al-connectors/
http://www.lemo.com/en

"Michael A. Terrell" wrote in message
m...

Jim Wilkins wrote:

"Michael A. Terrell" ? wrote in message
m...
? ...
? BTW, it isn't a DB-9, it is a DE-9. The second letter is the
shell
? size. The common 25 pin shell is a 'B'. The SVGA monitor plug
is a
? HDE-15.
?
? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/D-subminiature

What happened when you lectured the engineers about their errors?


Our engineers already knew the proper names. After all, some of
the
parts had been in the inventory database for over 30 years. They
had
about 40 variations in the stockroom. We used quite a few with
coaxial
inserts, since we built modular microwave receivers.

You were lucky. I was push into microwave radio in the 1990s when the
smart old guys were leaving and and a younger group was replacing
them. There's a lot of hands-on detail to learn in that business!
jsw

On 5/16/2014 9:16 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Fri, 16 May 2014 04:48:54 -0400, Tom Gardner Mars@Tacks wrote:

On 5/16/2014 2:16 AM, Karl Townsend wrote:
Ya caught up to me, old man.

Had the same issue a couple years back, especially DoN and a few
others on RCM turned me on to crimp connector pins that are then
pushed into the special DBxx connectors. I'm having a senior moment
right now, do remember the name of the sytem, should remember by
morning. if this is a one time thing for you, I'll mail the stuff and
you can send it back when done.

If you are soldering something like a header into a board, you could
be FUBAR. My solution was easy, I begged Don Forman for help.


Karl



Yep, seen those somewhere, I run into this kind of stuff once in a while
and I'm set...'till the next time. It's just a bitch to lose a skill
and I think I should be able to develop a methodology without calling on
a younger set of eyes and hands. I'm getting a lot more typos too! I
told my sister just tonight the first three words to be spoken at my
funeral. "He's DEAD Jim!"

Oops, forgot to address the former. Yes, it's a bitch. I bought a new
set of eyes. http://tinyurl.com/cvytr6l They work very well, too!
The hands are getting shakier as I age, though.

--
We cannot but pity the boy who has never fired a gun; he is
no more humane, while his education has been sadly neglected.
--Henry David Thoreau



Here's the one I have.

http://www.doneganoptical.com/products/optivisor

"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
...
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...

I have always had some issue with D-Sub connectors.

If you found soldering D-Subs frustrating, these would have you raging
through the engineering cubicles swinging an axe:
http://www.binder-usa.com/product-li...al-connectors/
http://www.lemo.com/en

Um, yeah! I've got a bad connection on the joystick cable for one of my
scissor lifts. If the cable stays straight it never has an issue. Instead
of tackling that darned zillion pin connector I clamped the joystick box in
place so it won't move and taped spiral wrap around the base of the
connector and the first foot of the cable. Works great. LOL. Mostly
though I just use the other scissor lift. LOL.

Jim Wilkins wrote:

"Michael A. Terrell wrote:
?
? Our engineers already knew the proper names. After all, some of
? the parts had been in the inventory database for over 30 years.
? They had about 40 variations in the stockroom. We used quite a
? few with coaxial inserts, since we built modular microwave
? receivers.

You were lucky. I was push into microwave radio in the 1990s when the
smart old guys were leaving and and a younger group was replacing
them. There's a lot of hands-on detail to learn in that business!


There are definitely a lot of tricks to that trade. Things that HF
designers had no clue about. They were put to work on the IF and video
stages.

--
Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to
have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.

---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com

"Michael A. Terrell" wrote in message
...

Jim Wilkins wrote:

"Michael A. Terrell wrote:
?
? Our engineers already knew the proper names. After all, some of
? the parts had been in the inventory database for over 30 years.
? They had about 40 variations in the stockroom. We used quite a
? few with coaxial inserts, since we built modular microwave
? receivers.

You were lucky. I was push into microwave radio in the 1990s when
the
smart old guys were leaving and and a younger group was replacing
them. There's a lot of hands-on detail to learn in that business!


There are definitely a lot of tricks to that trade. Things that HF
designers had no clue about. They were put to work on the IF and
video
stages.

Some of it made sense after designing and troubleshooting digital
circuits operating above 1 GHz. Reflections from mismatched
terminations are easier to observe and understand as deformed pulse
transitions than as SWR. You can see those clumps of unabsorbed
electrons bouncing back to mess up the next pulse, like ocean waves
reflecting off a seawall instead of dying on the beach. I thank all
you taxpayers for the $20,000 oscilloscope with the bandwidth to
capture that stuff that the Air Force bought for me.

jsw

On 5/16/2014 12:17 PM, Karl Townsend wrote:

Yep, seen those somewhere, I run into this kind of stuff once in a while
and I'm set...'till the next time. It's just a bitch to lose a skill
and I think I should be able to develop a methodology without calling on
a younger set of eyes and hands. I'm getting a lot more typos too! I
told my sister just tonight the first three words to be spoken at my
funeral. "He's DEAD Jim!"

Get used to losing skills and stuff. Gettin' old ain't for pussies. In
this case, go to the crimp system next time. You can borrow my stuff
if you like.

I can hardly see to weld. I did find if I grind a huge "V" I can feel
it with the stick. For soldering, have you seen the dial indicator
holder that just takes one hand knob to tighten the whole thing? They
are just tits. Anyway, put an allegator clamp in place of the
indicator, hold the thing in place and tighten - it won't move even a
couple thou. maybe get one for the other part too.
http://www.mscdirect.com/product/det...60426&fromRR=Y

You may choke on the price, but THEY ARE WORTH EVERY PENNY.

Karl

P.S. I'm starting to lose all sorts of things. Of all the things I've
lost, I miss my mind the most.



Oh my, is that slick or what?

On Fri, 16 May 2014 21:38:09 -0400, Tom Gardner Mars@Tacks wrote:

Here's the one I have.

http://www.doneganoptical.com/products/optivisor

I like the HF model because it has the flip-up and rotate-up lenses
for a total of 4 discrete magnification possibilities. I just used it
tonight to help pick out some pine bark splinters I got while playing
around a lady's porch. I was all itchy and prickly when I went over
to prime a patio cover frame.

After a long week and longer day (10 hours of painting in up to 89F
sun today), I'm ready for a nice, cool, relaxed, do-nothing weekend.

--
We cannot but pity the boy who has never fired a gun; he is
no more humane, while his education has been sadly neglected.
--Henry David Thoreau

On Fri, 16 May 2014 11:17:03 -0500, Karl Townsend
wrote:


Yep, seen those somewhere, I run into this kind of stuff once in a while
and I'm set...'till the next time. It's just a bitch to lose a skill
and I think I should be able to develop a methodology without calling on
a younger set of eyes and hands. I'm getting a lot more typos too! I
told my sister just tonight the first three words to be spoken at my
funeral. "He's DEAD Jim!"

Get used to losing skills and stuff. Gettin' old ain't for pussies. In
this case, go to the crimp system next time. You can borrow my stuff
if you like.

I can hardly see to weld. I did find if I grind a huge "V" I can feel
it with the stick.

Braille welding? How unique, Karl!


For soldering, have you seen the dial indicator
holder that just takes one hand knob to tighten the whole thing? They
are just tits. Anyway, put an allegator clamp in place of the
indicator, hold the thing in place and tighten - it won't move even a
couple thou. maybe get one for the other part too.
http://www.mscdirect.com/product/det...60426&fromRR=Y

You may choke on the price, but THEY ARE WORTH EVERY PENNY.

Egad! Are those any better than the $12 set I got at HF?


P.S. I'm starting to lose all sorts of things. Of all the things I've
lost, I miss my mind the most.

g

--
We cannot but pity the boy who has never fired a gun; he is
no more humane, while his education has been sadly neglected.
--Henry David Thoreau

On Fri, 16 May 2014 12:30:55 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


Tom Gardner wrote:

I had a huge struggle with soldering a couple of DB-9 connectors, my
vision and fine motor control just aren't what they used to be. And, I
only had to make 5 connections on the DB-9's, it took me close to an
hour. These are for a DRO, I've been using a break-out box until now on
the mismatched scales and display. Remember, the display bit the dust a
while ago.

I did have the connectors locked in a miniature vice but I couldn't
think of any other techniques that would help.


I hold them in a drill press vise, and tin the wires before assembly.
A little solder in the cups of the pins I need to use, and a drop of
liquid rosin flux over the solder. Then touch a hot soldering iron to
the solder on the pin and insert the pretinned wire. The flux allows a
clean flow, and a little IPA will clean it up when I'm done.

BTW, it isn't a DB-9, it is a DE-9. The second letter is the shell
size. The common 25 pin shell is a 'B'. The SVGA monitor plug is a
HDE-15.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/D-subminiature

Interesting! Even when I was buying them for computers/cables I
built, they were always listed as DB-9s.


PS: Have you ever seen any of these?

http://www.project-parts.com/itempix/450-040A.jpg

Wow, 8-way mini-coax? Whassit for?

--
We cannot but pity the boy who has never fired a gun; he is
no more humane, while his education has been sadly neglected.
--Henry David Thoreau

Larry Jaques wrote:

On Fri, 16 May 2014 12:30:55 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
? wrote:

?
?Tom Gardner wrote:
??
?? I had a huge struggle with soldering a couple of DB-9 connectors, my
?? vision and fine motor control just aren't what they used to be. And, I
?? only had to make 5 connections on the DB-9's, it took me close to an
?? hour. These are for a DRO, I've been using a break-out box until now on
?? the mismatched scales and display. Remember, the display bit the dust a
?? while ago.
??
?? I did have the connectors locked in a miniature vice but I couldn't
?? think of any other techniques that would help.
?
?
? I hold them in a drill press vise, and tin the wires before assembly.
?A little solder in the cups of the pins I need to use, and a drop of
?liquid rosin flux over the solder. Then touch a hot soldering iron to
?the solder on the pin and insert the pretinned wire. The flux allows a
?clean flow, and a little IPA will clean it up when I'm done.
?
? BTW, it isn't a DB-9, it is a DE-9. The second letter is the shell
?size. The common 25 pin shell is a 'B'. The SVGA monitor plug is a
?HDE-15.
?
?http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/D-subminiature

Interesting! Even when I was buying them for computers/cables I
built, they were always listed as DB-9s.


That's because the people selling computer parts rarely take the time
to research what they sell. Since they ran into the DB25 first, they
assumed everything that was vaguely similar was DB as well. That's like
when USB first hit the market, the local computer wholesaler didn't know
what the letters stood for, yet they built at least 50 computers per
business day. They had to go drag a tech out of the back to answer the
simplest questions.


?PS: Have you ever seen any of these?
?
?http://www.project-parts.com/itempix/450-040A.jpg

Wow, 8-way mini-coax? Whassit for?


Anything that needs a good RF match. That connector is $48, wholesale.
I've seen them in studio video equipment, and for the IF connections of
modular telemetry equipment



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On 2014-05-16, Tom Gardner Mars@Tacks wrote:
I had a huge struggle with soldering a couple of DB-9 connectors, my
vision and fine motor control just aren't what they used to be. And, I
only had to make 5 connections on the DB-9's, it took me close to an
hour. These are for a DRO, I've been using a break-out box until now on
the mismatched scales and display. Remember, the display bit the dust a
while ago.

For your connectors (really DE-9 -- the shell sizes change with the
number of pins) what I would suggest is to get a good AMP crimper, and
buy the AMP connectors with crimp pins. There are two sizes of the
crimp pins, covering different ranges of wire sizes, so be sure to order
the right ones -- or both. The small covers 28-24 Ga, and the large
covers 24-20 Ga.

The proper crimper is the AMP 90312-1. It has a sliding holder
for the pins, which can slide up to accept the pins, and then down to
put them into the crimper.

Currently, they are on eBay for a wide range of prices. The
least expensive is BIN $24.99. Auction #251499221475

Note the black sliding part on the second photo which is the positioner.
Without that, it will be a real pain to use. I've seen some on eBay
without that. Here is one -- at a stiff price of $110.00 which appears
to not have the positioner. #251278271984

My search string was:

"AMP 90312-1 crimper"

You will still benefit from a magnifier lamp, or good close
glasses and a good lamp. And really fine wire can still be tricky to
do, but they will do it. (And unlike the white nylon insulated ones by
Cannon (now quite rare) they don't melt while you try to solder. :-)

You can sometimes luck into them for even less. I got the one
which is in my lap as I type at a hamfest for $3.00 -- in the factory
box with the data sheet/manual and a 35mm film can with several of each
size of pin in it.

You'll also need a double-ended pin insertion/removal tool.
With stiff wires, you can insert without the tool, but removal needs the
tool anyway.

Good Luck,
DoN.

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On 2014-05-16, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

Tom Gardner wrote:

I had a huge struggle with soldering a couple of DB-9 connectors, my
vision and fine motor control just aren't what they used to be. And, I
only had to make 5 connections on the DB-9's, it took me close to an
hour. These are for a DRO, I've been using a break-out box until now on
the mismatched scales and display. Remember, the display bit the dust a
while ago.

[ ... ]

I hold them in a drill press vise, and tin the wires before assembly.
A little solder in the cups of the pins I need to use, and a drop of
liquid rosin flux over the solder. Then touch a hot soldering iron to
the solder on the pin and insert the pretinned wire. The flux allows a
clean flow, and a little IPA will clean it up when I'm done.

If you are going to solder, it is best to get another special
tool. An anti-wicking tweezers set by Clauss for the wire size you are
using. It supports the insulation, and contacts in a full ring around
the wire to cool it off, so the solder stops flowing and leaves a
multi-strand section still flexible before you go into the insulation.
This reduces the frequency of the wires snapping from vibration right
there.

And I've got a solder pot for the tinning. I dip the wire in
liquid rosin flux, and then quickly into and out of the pot while
holding it in the anti-wicking tweezers. I just had to do a 41-pin
Bendix style aircraft instrument connector with solder cups. The 55-pin
one happens to be crimp pins, which would be good except for the cost of
machined pins. $2.30 each!

BTW, it isn't a DB-9, it is a DE-9. The second letter is the shell
size. The common 25 pin shell is a 'B'. The SVGA monitor plug is a
HDE-15.

Agreed!

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/D-subminiature


PS: Have you ever seen any of these?

http://www.project-parts.com/itempix/450-040A.jpg

Not with the full eight coax pins, but I'm accustomed to the 13W3 (3
coax pins and 10 individual wire pins) used by Sun for their older
monitor cables.

The coax also has a special crimper which crimps both the shield
and the center conductor at one stroke. I've got the AMP crimper for
those, but not the connectors. (I've been collecting AMP crimpers for a
long time. :-)

Enjoy,
DoN.

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On 2014-05-16, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...

I have always had some issue with D-Sub connectors.

If you found soldering D-Subs frustrating, these would have you raging
through the engineering cubicles swinging an axe:
http://www.binder-usa.com/product-li...al-connectors/
http://www.lemo.com/en

Sereo Zoom microscopes, and padded adjustable-height wrist rests
for that. :-)

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On Fri, 16 May 2014 19:31:04 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...

I have always had some issue with D-Sub connectors.

If you found soldering D-Subs frustrating, these would have you raging
through the engineering cubicles swinging an axe:
http://www.binder-usa.com/product-li...al-connectors/

I'll bet they are just the sweetest, teensiest thangs with about an
80% breakage rate when using the specified crimping tool.


http://www.lemo.com/en

Those push/pull B metal Lemos look really, really familiar, but I
can't place where I've seen them. The (strong but foggy) memory feels
like "o-scope", but those are all BNC, IIRC. I remember liking the
feeling of the connection with those for some reason. Maybe it was
used on the $3500 HP RCL meter we got at SouthCom in '73. (SouthCom,
Int'l, Escondido, CA, not military but building milspec manpack radios
for, ta-da, Pakistan!) You should have seen some of the bugs they
swept up and used as return packing from there. Yikes! I never figured
out how they got past Customs.

--
We cannot but pity the boy who has never fired a gun; he is
no more humane, while his education has been sadly neglected.
--Henry David Thoreau

On Fri, 16 May 2014 14:21:42 -0500, Jon Elson
wrote:

Tom Gardner wrote:

I had a huge struggle with soldering a couple of DB-9 connectors, my
vision and fine motor control just aren't what they used to be. And, I
only had to make 5 connections on the DB-9's, it took me close to an
hour. These are for a DRO, I've been using a break-out box until now on
the mismatched scales and display. Remember, the display bit the dust a
while ago.

I did have the connectors locked in a miniature vice but I couldn't
think of any other techniques that would help.
Well, the right tools really help. Since I do this stuff for a living,
I have the RIGHT tools for this stuff. Resting the wrist or forearm on
something so you only need to move the fingers a bit should help. Doing
fine soldering "freehand", where you have no support except at the shoulder
is going to be really hard! I probably do this so much by reflex I
am not even aware I am using such support.

Of course, I do stuff way smaller than a typical D connector, then I have
to use a microscope, tweezers, etc.

Jon

The keyboard wrist rests you can buy at the puter places work pretty
well for this..particularly if you glue/stack 2 of them on top of
each other (flat foam ones..the cheapies)


--

"
I was once told by a “gun safety” advocate back in the Nineties
that he favored total civilian firearms confiscation.
Only the military and police should have weapons he averred and what did I think about that?

I began to give him a reasoned answer and he
cut me off with an abrupt, “Give me the short answer.”

I thought for a moment and said, “If you try to take our firearms we will kill you.”"

On 5/17/2014 12:19 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Fri, 16 May 2014 21:38:09 -0400, Tom Gardner Mars@Tacks wrote:

Here's the one I have.

http://www.doneganoptical.com/products/optivisor

I like the HF model because it has the flip-up and rotate-up lenses
for a total of 4 discrete magnification possibilities. I just used it
tonight to help pick out some pine bark splinters I got while playing
around a lady's porch. I was all itchy and prickly when I went over
to prime a patio cover frame.

After a long week and longer day (10 hours of painting in up to 89F
sun today), I'm ready for a nice, cool, relaxed, do-nothing weekend.

--
We cannot but pity the boy who has never fired a gun; he is
no more humane, while his education has been sadly neglected.
--Henry David Thoreau



You're such a good and handy friend to have! I have major garden prep
work planned, a lot of poop removal gonna' happen before beds get tilled.

On 5/16/2014 12:30 PM, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

Tom Gardner wrote:

I had a huge struggle with soldering a couple of DB-9 connectors, my
vision and fine motor control just aren't what they used to be. And, I
only had to make 5 connections on the DB-9's, it took me close to an
hour. These are for a DRO, I've been using a break-out box until now on
the mismatched scales and display. Remember, the display bit the dust a
while ago.

I did have the connectors locked in a miniature vice but I couldn't
think of any other techniques that would help.


I hold them in a drill press vise, and tin the wires before assembly.
A little solder in the cups of the pins I need to use, and a drop of
liquid rosin flux over the solder. Then touch a hot soldering iron to
the solder on the pin and insert the pretinned wire. The flux allows a
clean flow, and a little IPA will clean it up when I'm done.

BTW, it isn't a DB-9, it is a DE-9. The second letter is the shell
size. The common 25 pin shell is a 'B'. The SVGA monitor plug is a
HDE-15.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/D-subminiature


PS: Have you ever seen any of these?

http://www.project-parts.com/itempix/450-040A.jpg




Learn something new every day! No, never saw those connectors, I assume
they are RF.

"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...
On 2014-05-16, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...

I have always had some issue with D-Sub connectors.

If you found soldering D-Subs frustrating, these would have you
raging
through the engineering cubicles swinging an axe:
http://www.binder-usa.com/product-li...al-connectors/
http://www.lemo.com/en

Sereo Zoom microscopes, and padded adjustable-height wrist rests
for that. :-)

I did them all plus everything else the contracted cable assembly
company couldn't handle with a #3 (8") Optivisor and the 1-1/2" drill
press vise. The girls wouldn't use the larger crimpers either so my
hands got a good workout.

For anything larger than ICs with 0.5mm lead spacing I prefer being
able to shift my viewing angle, and working under a microscope for a
long time tires my eyes, which are too poorly matched for the eyepiece
adjustment to completely correct. One tested 20/40, the other about
20/180, though they are better up close and my distance vision has
improved with age. When I was young I could read the names of the
states on the back of a new $5 bill. They are under the eaves of the
building.

I've come to like the camera and monitor system which gives a large
magnification for applying the solder but doesn't block me from
inspecting it from several angles with the Optivisor.

jsw

On 5/16/2014 12:17 PM, Karl Townsend wrote:
... For soldering, have you seen the dial indicator
holder that just takes one hand knob to tighten the whole thing? They
are just tits. Anyway, put an allegator clamp in place of the
indicator, hold the thing in place and tighten - it won't move even a
couple thou. maybe get one for the other part too.
http://www.mscdirect.com/product/det...60426&fromRR=Y

You may choke on the price, but THEY ARE WORTH EVERY PENNY.

I have one of those - a competitor's version, I think. It is a
FANTASTIC indicator holder. Great idea- using it for soldering!

I got mine when somebody here alerted to it's being on sale - for $65,
IIRC (not MSC). $65 seemed like a lot, but was worth it. $175, I don't
think so. I would HATE to have to decide whether to spend $175 for it -
it's so good, but that's so much.

Bob

On 5/16/2014 10:30 AM, rangerssuck wrote:
...
BTW, for exactly this kind of stuff, last time I ordered from Zenni, I got a pair made with my reading prescription plus two extra diopters. This is way better than any clip-ons or drugstore glasses as it has my exact prescription, astigmatism and all, and cost all of $7.00. Highly recommended.


Oh ... good idea!