We use 2" x .049 wall tube cut 4" and deburred. We also use three
shorter lengths but in small quantities. I usually get 200' and send it
out. For the short lengths, we cut the tube on a bandsaw then deburr
each end, inner and outer, in a lathe.

Would it work if I slide 1' pieces onto a mandrel in the lathe and used
a pizza cutter type wheel in the cross slide to part the tube? Kind of
like a pipe cutter.

"Tom Gardner" mars@tacks wrote in message
...
We use 2" x .049 wall tube cut 4" and deburred. We also use three shorter
lengths but in small quantities. I usually get 200' and send it out. For
the short lengths, we cut the tube on a bandsaw then deburr each end,
inner and outer, in a lathe.

Would it work if I slide 1' pieces onto a mandrel in the lathe and used a
pizza cutter type wheel in the cross slide to part the tube? Kind of like
a pipe cutter.

You could use your lathe as a pipe drive I suppose with a regular pipe
cutter. A pipe drive is basically just a big lathe chuck with a couple stop
posts to keep the tubing cutter from spinning instead of cutting. I made
thousands of cuts with one when I was growing up and helping out in my dad's
hardware store. I don't think the cutter wheel would work by itself, but no
reason you couldn't use the whole tubing/pipe cutter. If your lathe will
feed 2" pipe I'm sure there is room for the cutter.

Alternatively if you just wanted to play and get creative...

How about an eccentric drive power hacksaw with a guide mounted on your
lathe? I use a hand powered hacksaw on the lathe sometimes.

"Tom Gardner" mars@tacks wrote in message
...
We use 2" x .049 wall tube cut 4" and deburred. We also use three shorter
lengths but in small quantities. I usually get 200' and send it out. For
the short lengths, we cut the tube on a bandsaw then deburr each end,
inner and outer, in a lathe.

Would it work if I slide 1' pieces onto a mandrel in the lathe and used a
pizza cutter type wheel in the cross slide to part the tube? Kind of like
a pipe cutter.

How bout just a parting tool in the lathe? Should make really quick work
AND give a nicer cut.
Tubing cutters are a pita, imo.

Or, an abrasive wheel on a RAS/chop saw, using a stop. Quick too.
--
EA

On Wed, 9 May 2012 20:03:45 -0400, "Existential Angst"
wrote:


Or, an abrasive wheel on a RAS/chop saw, using a stop. Quick too.

I'd use a dry cut saw with a stop. With care you wouldn't even have to
tighten the vise although some sort of lever or wedge used as a quick
clamp might be nice. Maybe 5 seconds per cut. Hardly any burr but
maybe another 10 seconds per end against a wire wheel in a bench
grinder to knock the sharp corners off. I can't believe that anyone
would even consider using a lathe to make or deburr cuts like that.
Kids these days.

On 2012-05-09, Bob La Londe wrote:
"Tom Gardner" mars@tacks wrote in message
...
We use 2" x .049 wall tube cut 4" and deburred. We also use three shorter
lengths but in small quantities. I usually get 200' and send it out. For
the short lengths, we cut the tube on a bandsaw then deburr each end,
inner and outer, in a lathe.

Would it work if I slide 1' pieces onto a mandrel in the lathe and used a
pizza cutter type wheel in the cross slide to part the tube? Kind of like
a pipe cutter.

You could use your lathe as a pipe drive I suppose with a regular pipe
cutter. A pipe drive is basically just a big lathe chuck with a couple stop
posts to keep the tubing cutter from spinning instead of cutting. I made
thousands of cuts with one when I was growing up and helping out in my dad's
hardware store. I don't think the cutter wheel would work by itself, but no
reason you couldn't use the whole tubing/pipe cutter. If your lathe will
feed 2" pipe I'm sure there is room for the cutter.

Actually -- I don't think that the pipe cutter would work well
with walls that thin. And if the mandrel is just barely a slip fit on
the mandrel, I think that could work well -- even without gripping the
tubing with the chuck. Use a wheel out of a pipe cutter, not a pizza
cutter which is too large an OD and too thin.

The only problems that I see with this a

1) The mandrel will probably get burred fairly quickly, unless
you have the infeed stop just before the cutter wheel touches
the mandrel.

2) The tubing might want to walk. Orient one end against a step
in mandrel diameter, and use a live center supported pusher for
the other end -- with the tailstock moved every time you take
another bite off the length. This suggests that you may want to
make a first cut on a batch of your 4" stock, and then shift the
tailstock to make the next batch of cuts.

Or -- add a threaded end to the mandrel, and a spin-on nut to
lock it against the step.

Alternatively if you just wanted to play and get creative...

How about an eccentric drive power hacksaw with a guide mounted on your
lathe? I use a hand powered hacksaw on the lathe sometimes.

If you do that -- turn a groove where the hacksaw blade will
hit, using a parting tool. With the cutter wheel, you need the backing
of the mandrel, but not with the hacksaw blade.

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

Ok - why not buy a pipe cutter - take it apart and steal the cutter
wheel from it. Then make a holder - pin the wheel and mount it on
your cross slide. Then cut. It really spreads metal apart.

You could do about the same thing with a V pointed tool - or a square
face cutoff tool. The trick is to cut slowly. Slow is relative.

One could put a tool post grinder with a saw in it - and saw off
lengths, while having a mandril of hardwood.

Lots of ways for creative minds.

Having something within keeps it from flattening.

Martin

On 5/9/2012 6:21 PM, Tom Gardner wrote:
We use 2" x .049 wall tube cut 4" and deburred. We also use three
shorter lengths but in small quantities. I usually get 200' and send it
out. For the short lengths, we cut the tube on a bandsaw then deburr
each end, inner and outer, in a lathe.

Would it work if I slide 1' pieces onto a mandrel in the lathe and used
a pizza cutter type wheel in the cross slide to part the tube? Kind of
like a pipe cutter.

"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...
On 2012-05-09, Bob La Londe wrote:
"Tom Gardner" mars@tacks wrote in message
...
We use 2" x .049 wall tube cut 4" and deburred. We also use three
shorter
lengths but in small quantities. I usually get 200' and send it out.
For
the short lengths, we cut the tube on a bandsaw then deburr each end,
inner and outer, in a lathe.

Would it work if I slide 1' pieces onto a mandrel in the lathe and used
a
pizza cutter type wheel in the cross slide to part the tube? Kind of
like
a pipe cutter.

You could use your lathe as a pipe drive I suppose with a regular pipe
cutter. A pipe drive is basically just a big lathe chuck with a couple
stop
posts to keep the tubing cutter from spinning instead of cutting. I made
thousands of cuts with one when I was growing up and helping out in my
dad's
hardware store. I don't think the cutter wheel would work by itself, but
no
reason you couldn't use the whole tubing/pipe cutter. If your lathe will
feed 2" pipe I'm sure there is room for the cutter.

Actually -- I don't think that the pipe cutter would work well
with walls that thin. And if the mandrel is just barely a slip fit on
the mandrel, I think that could work well -- even without gripping the
tubing with the chuck. Use a wheel out of a pipe cutter, not a pizza
cutter which is too large an OD and too thin.

The only problems that I see with this a

1) The mandrel will probably get burred fairly quickly, unless
you have the infeed stop just before the cutter wheel touches
the mandrel.

2) The tubing might want to walk. Orient one end against a step
in mandrel diameter, and use a live center supported pusher for
the other end -- with the tailstock moved every time you take
another bite off the length. This suggests that you may want to
make a first cut on a batch of your 4" stock, and then shift the
tailstock to make the next batch of cuts.

Or -- add a threaded end to the mandrel, and a spin-on nut to
lock it against the step.

Alternatively if you just wanted to play and get creative...

How about an eccentric drive power hacksaw with a guide mounted on your
lathe? I use a hand powered hacksaw on the lathe sometimes.

If you do that -- turn a groove where the hacksaw blade will
hit, using a parting tool. With the cutter wheel, you need the backing
of the mandrel, but not with the hacksaw blade.

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. |
http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

I form up some stainless steel woven cloth into a "beanie" shape using a
mandrel in the chuck and a matching cup mounted on the tailstock.

I've used a cutting wheel from a pipe cutter and run that in from the side,
it cuts nicely. Maybe if the thin tube was supported on such a mandrel it'd
work ok.

Otherwise just hack em out with a chop saw...

Tom Gardner mars@tacks wrote:
We use 2" x .049 wall tube cut 4" and deburred. We also use three
shorter lengths but in small quantities. I usually get 200' and send it
out. For the short lengths, we cut the tube on a bandsaw then deburr
each end, inner and outer, in a lathe.

Would it work if I slide 1' pieces onto a mandrel in the lathe and used
a pizza cutter type wheel in the cross slide to part the tube? Kind of
like a pipe cutter.

You want to cut long pieces of tubing into 1 foot ones, then cut those up
more on a lathe?

Do those pieces then get cut up again on some other machine?

On Wed, 09 May 2012 21:59:09 -0500, Martin Eastburn
wrote:

Ok - why not buy a pipe cutter - take it apart and steal the cutter
wheel from it. Then make a holder - pin the wheel and mount it on
your cross slide. Then cut. It really spreads metal apart.

You could do about the same thing with a V pointed tool - or a square
face cutoff tool. The trick is to cut slowly. Slow is relative.

One could put a tool post grinder with a saw in it - and saw off
lengths, while having a mandril of hardwood.

Lots of ways for creative minds.

Having something within keeps it from flattening.

Martin

On 5/9/2012 6:21 PM, Tom Gardner wrote:
We use 2" x .049 wall tube cut 4" and deburred. We also use three
shorter lengths but in small quantities. I usually get 200' and send it
out. For the short lengths, we cut the tube on a bandsaw then deburr
each end, inner and outer, in a lathe.

Would it work if I slide 1' pieces onto a mandrel in the lathe and used
a pizza cutter type wheel in the cross slide to part the tube? Kind of
like a pipe cutter.
Mount rollers like from a tubing cutter on a steady rest behind the
cut and mount the cutter wheel from the pipe cutter in the toolpost
and you have a power pipecutter. .045" should survive in the chuck
with normal pipe-cutter feed. A levered tailstock with a large cone
live center (or even better yet, a live "plug" to hold the cuttoff in
position after the cut is finished) set up to stop the tube at the
right position for the cutter to make the right size cutoff would
semi-automate the length setting. Pop the lever back to release the
cutoff, pop it back to position, move the pipe ahead in the chuck
untill it seats on the cone, and fire it up for another cut.

On Thu, 10 May 2012 04:09:17 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

Tom Gardner mars@tacks wrote:
We use 2" x .049 wall tube cut 4" and deburred. We also use three
shorter lengths but in small quantities. I usually get 200' and send it
out. For the short lengths, we cut the tube on a bandsaw then deburr
each end, inner and outer, in a lathe.

Would it work if I slide 1' pieces onto a mandrel in the lathe and used
a pizza cutter type wheel in the cross slide to part the tube? Kind of
like a pipe cutter.

You want to cut long pieces of tubing into 1 foot ones, then cut those up
more on a lathe?

Do those pieces then get cut up again on some other machine?



bigger question - is it a big-assed lathe that you can feed the 2"
pipe through the spindle? Would definitely simplify things if it is.
In my last post I was ASSuming that was the case.

"whoyakidding" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 9 May 2012 20:03:45 -0400, "Existential Angst"
wrote:


Or, an abrasive wheel on a RAS/chop saw, using a stop. Quick too.

I'd use a dry cut saw with a stop. With care you wouldn't even have to
tighten the vise although some sort of lever or wedge used as a quick
clamp might be nice. Maybe 5 seconds per cut. Hardly any burr but
maybe another 10 seconds per end against a wire wheel in a bench
grinder to knock the sharp corners off. I can't believe that anyone
would even consider using a lathe to make or deburr cuts like that.
Kids these days.

I wouldn't even bother with a vise.
With any length of tube and a tube stand, just hold the tube by hand while
you feed in the RAS with an abrasive wheel, or on the chop saw. The tube,
with 049 wall, won't distort at all, with an abrasive wheel.

Mebbe just a cupla seconds with a deburring tool, some emory or scotchbrite.

I cut 1.25 solid round, 2" sq tube (1/8 wall) all the time on a RAS, just
holding the stuff by hand.

Yeah, I don't understand all this lathe stuff either, unless it was a cnc
with a barfeed.
--
EA

On 5/10/2012 12:02 AM, Dennis wrote:
"DoN. wrote in message
...
On 2012-05-09, Bob La wrote:
"Tom Gardner"mars@tacks wrote in message
...
We use 2" x .049 wall tube cut 4" and deburred. We also use three
shorter
lengths but in small quantities. I usually get 200' and send it out.
For
the short lengths, we cut the tube on a bandsaw then deburr each end,
inner and outer, in a lathe.

Would it work if I slide 1' pieces onto a mandrel in the lathe and used
a
pizza cutter type wheel in the cross slide to part the tube? Kind of
like
a pipe cutter.

You could use your lathe as a pipe drive I suppose with a regular pipe
cutter. A pipe drive is basically just a big lathe chuck with a couple
stop
posts to keep the tubing cutter from spinning instead of cutting. I made
thousands of cuts with one when I was growing up and helping out in my
dad's
hardware store. I don't think the cutter wheel would work by itself, but
no
reason you couldn't use the whole tubing/pipe cutter. If your lathe will
feed 2" pipe I'm sure there is room for the cutter.

Actually -- I don't think that the pipe cutter would work well
with walls that thin. And if the mandrel is just barely a slip fit on
the mandrel, I think that could work well -- even without gripping the
tubing with the chuck. Use a wheel out of a pipe cutter, not a pizza
cutter which is too large an OD and too thin.

The only problems that I see with this a

1) The mandrel will probably get burred fairly quickly, unless
you have the infeed stop just before the cutter wheel touches
the mandrel.

2) The tubing might want to walk. Orient one end against a step
in mandrel diameter, and use a live center supported pusher for
the other end -- with the tailstock moved every time you take
another bite off the length. This suggests that you may want to
make a first cut on a batch of your 4" stock, and then shift the
tailstock to make the next batch of cuts.

Or -- add a threaded end to the mandrel, and a spin-on nut to
lock it against the step.

Alternatively if you just wanted to play and get creative...

How about an eccentric drive power hacksaw with a guide mounted on your
lathe? I use a hand powered hacksaw on the lathe sometimes.

If you do that -- turn a groove where the hacksaw blade will
hit, using a parting tool. With the cutter wheel, you need the backing
of the mandrel, but not with the hacksaw blade.

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
| Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. |
http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

I form up some stainless steel woven cloth into a "beanie" shape using a
mandrel in the chuck and a matching cup mounted on the tailstock.

I've used a cutting wheel from a pipe cutter and run that in from the side,
it cuts nicely. Maybe if the thin tube was supported on such a mandrel it'd
work ok.

Otherwise just hack em out with a chop saw...



I was thinking of a brass "anvil" for the cutting wheel. Your job tells
me this might work.

On 5/10/2012 12:21 AM, wrote:
On Wed, 09 May 2012 21:59:09 -0500, Martin Eastburn
wrote:

Ok - why not buy a pipe cutter - take it apart and steal the cutter
wheel from it. Then make a holder - pin the wheel and mount it on
your cross slide. Then cut. It really spreads metal apart.

You could do about the same thing with a V pointed tool - or a square
face cutoff tool. The trick is to cut slowly. Slow is relative.

One could put a tool post grinder with a saw in it - and saw off
lengths, while having a mandril of hardwood.

Lots of ways for creative minds.

Having something within keeps it from flattening.

Martin

On 5/9/2012 6:21 PM, Tom Gardner wrote:
We use 2" x .049 wall tube cut 4" and deburred. We also use three
shorter lengths but in small quantities. I usually get 200' and send it
out. For the short lengths, we cut the tube on a bandsaw then deburr
each end, inner and outer, in a lathe.

Would it work if I slide 1' pieces onto a mandrel in the lathe and used
a pizza cutter type wheel in the cross slide to part the tube? Kind of
like a pipe cutter.
Mount rollers like from a tubing cutter on a steady rest behind the
cut and mount the cutter wheel from the pipe cutter in the toolpost
and you have a power pipecutter. .045" should survive in the chuck
with normal pipe-cutter feed. A levered tailstock with a large cone
live center (or even better yet, a live "plug" to hold the cuttoff in
position after the cut is finished) set up to stop the tube at the
right position for the cutter to make the right size cutoff would
semi-automate the length setting. Pop the lever back to release the
cutoff, pop it back to position, move the pipe ahead in the chuck
untill it seats on the cone, and fire it up for another cut.

I can "see" that!

On 5/10/2012 12:09 AM, Cydrome Leader wrote:
Tom Gardnermars@tacks wrote:
We use 2" x .049 wall tube cut 4" and deburred. We also use three
shorter lengths but in small quantities. I usually get 200' and send it
out. For the short lengths, we cut the tube on a bandsaw then deburr
each end, inner and outer, in a lathe.

Would it work if I slide 1' pieces onto a mandrel in the lathe and used
a pizza cutter type wheel in the cross slide to part the tube? Kind of
like a pipe cutter.

You want to cut long pieces of tubing into 1 foot ones, then cut those up
more on a lathe?

Do those pieces then get cut up again on some other machine?





The tubes come as 20 footers. Cutting it in the bandsaw is OK but slow
and the deburring is a bitch because the tube ends have to be very well
deburred because the tubes have to fit on a die, get one end swagged
then parts get stacked on and the other end gets swagged. The finished
product is a 4" wide x 8" to 10" dia. wire brush that fits on a
weed-whacker type machine that uses two of these brushes. It's called a
Power Broom.
http://www.wisesales.com/power-equip...wer-broom.html

On 5/10/2012 12:23 AM, wrote:
On Thu, 10 May 2012 04:09:17 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

Tom Gardnermars@tacks wrote:
We use 2" x .049 wall tube cut 4" and deburred. We also use three
shorter lengths but in small quantities. I usually get 200' and send it
out. For the short lengths, we cut the tube on a bandsaw then deburr
each end, inner and outer, in a lathe.

Would it work if I slide 1' pieces onto a mandrel in the lathe and used
a pizza cutter type wheel in the cross slide to part the tube? Kind of
like a pipe cutter.

You want to cut long pieces of tubing into 1 foot ones, then cut those up
more on a lathe?

Do those pieces then get cut up again on some other machine?



bigger question - is it a big-assed lathe that you can feed the 2"
pipe through the spindle? Would definitely simplify things if it is.
In my last post I was ASSuming that was the case.

Hmm, it's a Reed Prentice and I think two inch WILL fit!
(here's the finished product
http://www.wisesales.com/power-equip...wer-broom.html

"Tom Gardner" mars@tacks wrote in message
...
On 5/10/2012 12:02 AM, Dennis wrote:
"DoN. wrote in message
...
On 2012-05-09, Bob La wrote:
"Tom Gardner"mars@tacks wrote in message
...
We use 2" x .049 wall tube cut 4" and deburred. We also use three
shorter
lengths but in small quantities. I usually get 200' and send it out.
For
the short lengths, we cut the tube on a bandsaw then deburr each end,
inner and outer, in a lathe.

Would it work if I slide 1' pieces onto a mandrel in the lathe and
used
a
pizza cutter type wheel in the cross slide to part the tube? Kind of
like
a pipe cutter.

You could use your lathe as a pipe drive I suppose with a regular pipe
cutter. A pipe drive is basically just a big lathe chuck with a couple
stop
posts to keep the tubing cutter from spinning instead of cutting. I
made
thousands of cuts with one when I was growing up and helping out in my
dad's
hardware store. I don't think the cutter wheel would work by itself,
but
no
reason you couldn't use the whole tubing/pipe cutter. If your lathe
will
feed 2" pipe I'm sure there is room for the cutter.

Actually -- I don't think that the pipe cutter would work well
with walls that thin. And if the mandrel is just barely a slip fit on
the mandrel, I think that could work well -- even without gripping the
tubing with the chuck. Use a wheel out of a pipe cutter, not a pizza
cutter which is too large an OD and too thin.

The only problems that I see with this a

1) The mandrel will probably get burred fairly quickly, unless
you have the infeed stop just before the cutter wheel touches
the mandrel.

2) The tubing might want to walk. Orient one end against a step
in mandrel diameter, and use a live center supported pusher for
the other end -- with the tailstock moved every time you take
another bite off the length. This suggests that you may want to
make a first cut on a batch of your 4" stock, and then shift the
tailstock to make the next batch of cuts.

Or -- add a threaded end to the mandrel, and a spin-on nut to
lock it against the step.

Alternatively if you just wanted to play and get creative...

How about an eccentric drive power hacksaw with a guide mounted on your
lathe? I use a hand powered hacksaw on the lathe sometimes.

If you do that -- turn a groove where the hacksaw blade will
hit, using a parting tool. With the cutter wheel, you need the backing
of the mandrel, but not with the hacksaw blade.

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
| Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. |
http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

I form up some stainless steel woven cloth into a "beanie" shape using a
mandrel in the chuck and a matching cup mounted on the tailstock.

I've used a cutting wheel from a pipe cutter and run that in from the
side,
it cuts nicely. Maybe if the thin tube was supported on such a mandrel
it'd
work ok.

Otherwise just hack em out with a chop saw...



I was thinking of a brass "anvil" for the cutting wheel. Your job tells
me this might work.


For the mandrel I've used an old bit of stainless I had lying around. I cut
a small groove say 0.8mm wide x 0.5mm deep x on the mandrel where the
cutting wheel runs in. The wheel effectively does not touch the manrell.


I also do a job where I cut 100mm diamter PVC tube into 50mm long pieces. I
part these off using a bit of HSS. I have a turned wooden mandrel in the
chuck that supports the parted off bit of the tube. I also have another
wooden mandrel in the tailstock with an old bearing & bolt to support the
other part of the tube when its "cut free".

To mount the cutting wheel I just have an off the shelf hex head shoulder
screw that suits the ID of the cutting wheel.

"Tom Gardner" mars@tacks wrote in message
...
On 5/10/2012 12:09 AM, Cydrome Leader wrote:
Tom Gardnermars@tacks wrote:
We use 2" x .049 wall tube cut 4" and deburred. We also use three
shorter lengths but in small quantities. I usually get 200' and send it
out. For the short lengths, we cut the tube on a bandsaw then deburr
each end, inner and outer, in a lathe.

Would it work if I slide 1' pieces onto a mandrel in the lathe and used
a pizza cutter type wheel in the cross slide to part the tube? Kind of
like a pipe cutter.

You want to cut long pieces of tubing into 1 foot ones, then cut those up
more on a lathe?

Do those pieces then get cut up again on some other machine?





The tubes come as 20 footers. Cutting it in the bandsaw is OK but slow
and the deburring is a bitch because the tube ends have to be very well
deburred because the tubes have to fit on a die, get one end swagged then
parts get stacked on and the other end gets swagged. The finished product
is a 4" wide x 8" to 10" dia. wire brush that fits on a weed-whacker type
machine that uses two of these brushes. It's called a Power Broom.
http://www.wisesales.com/power-equip...wer-broom.html


Ok. It doesn't look like super high precision is required. Whack them with
an abrasive chop saw, and get/make an inside and outside reamer to debur
them. Seems like speed and overhead cost is the over riding factor here.

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
"Tom Gardner" mars@tacks wrote in message ...
The tubes come as 20 footers.

Ok. It doesn't look like super high precision is required. Whack
them with an abrasive chop saw, and get/make an inside and outside
reamer to debur them. Seems like speed and overhead cost is the
over riding factor here.

I've seen a whole strapped bundle of EMT being cut into short lengths
on a chop saw.

jsw

On Thu, 10 May 2012 01:17:54 -0400, "Existential Angst"
wrote:

"whoyakidding" wrote in message
.. .
On Wed, 9 May 2012 20:03:45 -0400, "Existential Angst"
wrote:


Or, an abrasive wheel on a RAS/chop saw, using a stop. Quick too.

I'd use a dry cut saw with a stop. With care you wouldn't even have to
tighten the vise although some sort of lever or wedge used as a quick
clamp might be nice. Maybe 5 seconds per cut. Hardly any burr but
maybe another 10 seconds per end against a wire wheel in a bench
grinder to knock the sharp corners off. I can't believe that anyone
would even consider using a lathe to make or deburr cuts like that.
Kids these days.

I wouldn't even bother with a vise.

A dry cut saw would be slick but my main concern with holding the tube
is as the long piece gets shorter and lighter it needs to be held
tight enough that it can't shift a little and rip teeth off the blade.
A sleeve clamped in the vise maybe? The other thing I've found with
using any kind of chop saw and using muscle to hold the material is
that with lots of cuts and an old fart operator there's some risk of
repetitive motion injury. A year ago I was using a miter saw on and
off all day for about 3 weeks. I didn't realize how much muscle I was
using to hold the material down. It gave me golfers elbow and it's
still not fully healed. It made me more aware and I'd be especially
careful If I was paying somebody to do a similar job. It was
definitelyl painful and debilitating. I just grin and bear it but an
employee could turn an injury like that into a string of doctors
appointments or worse. Since we're only talking 200' at a time I guess
it's not an issue here though.

With any length of tube and a tube stand, just hold the tube by hand while
you feed in the RAS with an abrasive wheel, or on the chop saw. The tube,
with 049 wall, won't distort at all, with an abrasive wheel.

I agree there'd be no need for clamping with an abrasive saw. But for
clean thin walled material the dry cut is way nicer and faster. Hardly
any sparks or burr or heat.

Mebbe just a cupla seconds with a deburring tool, some emory or scotchbrite.

A wire wheel on a bench grinder is perfect for this job. I'd make a
pin type holder for the short pieces.

I cut 1.25 solid round, 2" sq tube (1/8 wall) all the time on a RAS, just
holding the stuff by hand.

Me too with abrasive. But it takes a bit more care with dry cut.

Yeah, I don't understand all this lathe stuff either, unless it was a cnc
with a barfeed.

He seems determined to make it as difficult as possible. Jobs like his
are typically set up in half an hour and carried out by the lowest guy
in the shop. This discussion is another example of things taking
longer to talk about than to do.

"whoyakidding" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 10 May 2012 01:17:54 -0400, "Existential Angst"
wrote:

"whoyakidding" wrote in message
. ..
On Wed, 9 May 2012 20:03:45 -0400, "Existential Angst"
wrote:


Or, an abrasive wheel on a RAS/chop saw, using a stop. Quick too.

I'd use a dry cut saw with a stop. With care you wouldn't even have to
tighten the vise although some sort of lever or wedge used as a quick
clamp might be nice. Maybe 5 seconds per cut. Hardly any burr but
maybe another 10 seconds per end against a wire wheel in a bench
grinder to knock the sharp corners off. I can't believe that anyone
would even consider using a lathe to make or deburr cuts like that.
Kids these days.

I wouldn't even bother with a vise.

A dry cut saw would be slick but my main concern with holding the tube
is as the long piece gets shorter and lighter it needs to be held
tight enough that it can't shift a little and rip teeth off the blade.
A sleeve clamped in the vise maybe? The other thing I've found with
using any kind of chop saw and using muscle to hold the material is
that with lots of cuts and an old fart operator there's some risk of
repetitive motion injury. A year ago I was using a miter saw on and
off all day for about 3 weeks. I didn't realize how much muscle I was
using to hold the material down. It gave me golfers elbow and it's
still not fully healed. It made me more aware and I'd be especially
careful If I was paying somebody to do a similar job. It was
definitelyl painful and debilitating. I just grin and bear it but an
employee could turn an injury like that into a string of doctors
appointments or worse. Since we're only talking 200' at a time I guess
it's not an issue here though.

With any length of tube and a tube stand, just hold the tube by hand while
you feed in the RAS with an abrasive wheel, or on the chop saw. The tube,
with 049 wall, won't distort at all, with an abrasive wheel.

I agree there'd be no need for clamping with an abrasive saw. But for
clean thin walled material the dry cut is way nicer and faster. Hardly
any sparks or burr or heat.

Mebbe just a cupla seconds with a deburring tool, some emory or
scotchbrite.

A wire wheel on a bench grinder is perfect for this job. I'd make a
pin type holder for the short pieces.

I cut 1.25 solid round, 2" sq tube (1/8 wall) all the time on a RAS, just
holding the stuff by hand.

Me too with abrasive. But it takes a bit more care with dry cut.

What are you calling "dry cut"? Carbide saw blade??

I'm assuming the OP's tube is steel, since 049 is not a std alum wall.
If it WAS alum, I'd say 80 tooth 10" carbide blade.

Since it is apparently steel, I'd say abrasive. Unless dry cut is totally
different.

They do make a steel cutting circular saw blade, which I've never used, just
read about.
They seem to work well, but iirc, they aren't cheap -- or at HD.


Yeah, I don't understand all this lathe stuff either, unless it was a cnc
with a barfeed.

He seems determined to make it as difficult as possible. Jobs like his
are typically set up in half an hour and carried out by the lowest guy
in the shop. This discussion is another example of things taking
longer to talk about than to do.

The only thing I'd use the lathe for is facing, and only if that level of
finish/accuracy were req'd.
Then, while on the lathe, I"d deburr it. But only if the lathe were
necessary.

Have you noticed that we are being completely ignored by the OP?? LOL!!!!!
--
EA

On Thu, 10 May 2012 10:48:45 -0400, "Existential Angst"
wrote:

"whoyakidding" wrote in message
.. .
On Thu, 10 May 2012 01:17:54 -0400, "Existential Angst"
wrote:

"whoyakidding" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 9 May 2012 20:03:45 -0400, "Existential Angst"
wrote:

What are you calling "dry cut"? Carbide saw blade??

Yeah like this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ANYKnJA4vjI or this
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QBJeW...eature=related They're
the cat's ass for thin walled clean material and much more. It's my
preferred tool for chopping but I still use an abrasive for ugly
stuff.

I'm assuming the OP's tube is steel, since 049 is not a std alum wall.
If it WAS alum, I'd say 80 tooth 10" carbide blade.

Since it is apparently steel, I'd say abrasive. Unless dry cut is totally
different.

They do make a steel cutting circular saw blade, which I've never used, just
read about.
They seem to work well, but iirc, they aren't cheap -- or at HD.

The Northern model in the first video is $265.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...6857_200326857 I
paid a little more for mine and I consider it one of my better
purchases.

Yeah, I don't understand all this lathe stuff either, unless it was a cnc
with a barfeed.

He seems determined to make it as difficult as possible. Jobs like his
are typically set up in half an hour and carried out by the lowest guy
in the shop. This discussion is another example of things taking
longer to talk about than to do.

The only thing I'd use the lathe for is facing, and only if that level of
finish/accuracy were req'd.
Then, while on the lathe, I"d deburr it. But only if the lathe were
necessary.

Have you noticed that we are being completely ignored by the OP?? LOL!!!!!

Well you know us dumb liberals. Too ****ing stupid to use a lathe and
a custom made pipe cutter attachment to cut thin walled stock. Wait
until he tries to lop off some square tubing in his lathe. That
discussion will go on for months.

On 5/10/2012 10:48 AM, Existential Angst wrote:
wrote in message
...
On Thu, 10 May 2012 01:17:54 -0400, "Existential Angst"
wrote:

wrote in message
...
On Wed, 9 May 2012 20:03:45 -0400, "Existential Angst"
wrote:


Or, an abrasive wheel on a RAS/chop saw, using a stop. Quick too.

I'd use a dry cut saw with a stop. With care you wouldn't even have to
tighten the vise although some sort of lever or wedge used as a quick
clamp might be nice. Maybe 5 seconds per cut. Hardly any burr but
maybe another 10 seconds per end against a wire wheel in a bench
grinder to knock the sharp corners off. I can't believe that anyone
would even consider using a lathe to make or deburr cuts like that.
Kids these days.

I wouldn't even bother with a vise.

A dry cut saw would be slick but my main concern with holding the tube
is as the long piece gets shorter and lighter it needs to be held
tight enough that it can't shift a little and rip teeth off the blade.
A sleeve clamped in the vise maybe? The other thing I've found with
using any kind of chop saw and using muscle to hold the material is
that with lots of cuts and an old fart operator there's some risk of
repetitive motion injury. A year ago I was using a miter saw on and
off all day for about 3 weeks. I didn't realize how much muscle I was
using to hold the material down. It gave me golfers elbow and it's
still not fully healed. It made me more aware and I'd be especially
careful If I was paying somebody to do a similar job. It was
definitelyl painful and debilitating. I just grin and bear it but an
employee could turn an injury like that into a string of doctors
appointments or worse. Since we're only talking 200' at a time I guess
it's not an issue here though.

With any length of tube and a tube stand, just hold the tube by hand while
you feed in the RAS with an abrasive wheel, or on the chop saw. The tube,
with 049 wall, won't distort at all, with an abrasive wheel.

I agree there'd be no need for clamping with an abrasive saw. But for
clean thin walled material the dry cut is way nicer and faster. Hardly
any sparks or burr or heat.

Mebbe just a cupla seconds with a deburring tool, some emory or
scotchbrite.

A wire wheel on a bench grinder is perfect for this job. I'd make a
pin type holder for the short pieces.

I cut 1.25 solid round, 2" sq tube (1/8 wall) all the time on a RAS, just
holding the stuff by hand.

Me too with abrasive. But it takes a bit more care with dry cut.

What are you calling "dry cut"? Carbide saw blade??

I'm assuming the OP's tube is steel, since 049 is not a std alum wall.
If it WAS alum, I'd say 80 tooth 10" carbide blade.

Since it is apparently steel, I'd say abrasive. Unless dry cut is totally
different.

They do make a steel cutting circular saw blade, which I've never used, just
read about.
They seem to work well, but iirc, they aren't cheap -- or at HD.


Yeah, I don't understand all this lathe stuff either, unless it was a cnc
with a barfeed.

He seems determined to make it as difficult as possible. Jobs like his
are typically set up in half an hour and carried out by the lowest guy
in the shop. This discussion is another example of things taking
longer to talk about than to do.

The only thing I'd use the lathe for is facing, and only if that level of
finish/accuracy were req'd.
Then, while on the lathe, I"d deburr it. But only if the lathe were
necessary.

Have you noticed that we are being completely ignored by the OP?? LOL!!!!!

Nope, I'm weighing all these good ideas! When we cut pieces in a
horizontal bandsaw it goes pretty fast but the pieces of tube are 2.375"
or 3.375" in qtys. of 24 to 48. We cut them 1/16" long in order to get
the ends square and the length in spec. The deburring op is a little
more, the inner and outer really get a slight chamfer. The tube gets
swaged later on both ends and the chamfer helps the steel flow rather
than fold up. So, I think if I can cut to exact length in the first op
and only have to chamfer the ID, it would save two operations. I'll try
our abrasive saw to see if it will cut square enough. I don't have a
dry cut saw.

Here's the finished product"
http://www.wisesales.com/catalog/pro...46/image/1877/

The tube becomes the arbor hole by being press into a stack of wheel
brushes and rubber spacers using a 50 ton hydraulic press. Any
resistance from a burr or any other defect and the tube becomes an
accordion and is very difficult to recover the parts.

Most of the orders are for 4" and the company that cuts those for us
does a good job...the should, they charge $0.50 each! The orders for 2'
and 3" are very few by comparison but are a pain and we have to have a
skilled person do the job.

Thanks for the advice!

On 5/10/2012 11:33 AM, whoyakidding wrote:
On Thu, 10 May 2012 10:48:45 -0400, "Existential Angst"
wrote:

wrote in message
...
On Thu, 10 May 2012 01:17:54 -0400, "Existential Angst"
wrote:

wrote in message
...
On Wed, 9 May 2012 20:03:45 -0400, "Existential Angst"
wrote:

What are you calling "dry cut"? Carbide saw blade??

Yeah like this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ANYKnJA4vjI or this
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QBJeW...eature=related They're
the cat's ass for thin walled clean material and much more. It's my
preferred tool for chopping but I still use an abrasive for ugly
stuff.

I'm assuming the OP's tube is steel, since 049 is not a std alum wall.
If it WAS alum, I'd say 80 tooth 10" carbide blade.

Since it is apparently steel, I'd say abrasive. Unless dry cut is totally
different.

They do make a steel cutting circular saw blade, which I've never used, just
read about.
They seem to work well, but iirc, they aren't cheap -- or at HD.

The Northern model in the first video is $265.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...6857_200326857 I
paid a little more for mine and I consider it one of my better
purchases.

Yeah, I don't understand all this lathe stuff either, unless it was a cnc
with a barfeed.

He seems determined to make it as difficult as possible. Jobs like his
are typically set up in half an hour and carried out by the lowest guy
in the shop. This discussion is another example of things taking
longer to talk about than to do.

The only thing I'd use the lathe for is facing, and only if that level of
finish/accuracy were req'd.
Then, while on the lathe, I"d deburr it. But only if the lathe were
necessary.

Have you noticed that we are being completely ignored by the OP?? LOL!!!!!

Well you know us dumb liberals. Too ****ing stupid to use a lathe and
a custom made pipe cutter attachment to cut thin walled stock. Wait
until he tries to lop off some square tubing in his lathe. That
discussion will go on for months.

Oh come now, politics is one thing, metalworking is another. We don't
usually mix the two here. If you like to argue politics, let's do it in
another thread. What subject do you have in mind? Meanwhile, thanks
for the advice on this topic.

I HAVE put square tube in a lathe using a 4-jaw chuck and a parting tool
to put a grove on the corners to accept a split ring as a semi-permanent
stop for a telescoping part. I chipped the tool a few times before I
got it right. I HATE parting tools!

On 5/10/2012 3:23 AM, Bob La Londe wrote:


"Tom Gardner" mars@tacks wrote in message
...
On 5/10/2012 12:09 AM, Cydrome Leader wrote:
Tom Gardnermars@tacks wrote:
We use 2" x .049 wall tube cut 4" and deburred. We also use three
shorter lengths but in small quantities. I usually get 200' and send it
out. For the short lengths, we cut the tube on a bandsaw then deburr
each end, inner and outer, in a lathe.

Would it work if I slide 1' pieces onto a mandrel in the lathe and used
a pizza cutter type wheel in the cross slide to part the tube? Kind of
like a pipe cutter.

You want to cut long pieces of tubing into 1 foot ones, then cut
those up
more on a lathe?

Do those pieces then get cut up again on some other machine?





The tubes come as 20 footers. Cutting it in the bandsaw is OK but slow
and the deburring is a bitch because the tube ends have to be very
well deburred because the tubes have to fit on a die, get one end
swagged then parts get stacked on and the other end gets swagged. The
finished product is a 4" wide x 8" to 10" dia. wire brush that fits on
a weed-whacker type machine that uses two of these brushes. It's
called a Power Broom.
http://www.wisesales.com/power-equip...wer-broom.html



Ok. It doesn't look like super high precision is required. Whack them
with an abrasive chop saw, and get/make an inside and outside reamer to
debur them. Seems like speed and overhead cost is the over riding factor
here.

I did make a tool out of a HHS square bit that had a "V" shape that
deburred the ID and the OD and trimmed the end square. I forgot all
about it, thanks for reminding me!

On 5/10/2012 7:44 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La wrote in message
...
"Tom Gardner"mars@tacks wrote in message ...
The tubes come as 20 footers.

Ok. It doesn't look like super high precision is required. Whack
them with an abrasive chop saw, and get/make an inside and outside
reamer to debur them. Seems like speed and overhead cost is the
over riding factor here.

I've seen a whole strapped bundle of EMT being cut into short lengths
on a chop saw.

jsw




We use 1/2" EMT and cut the bundles in a horizontal bandsaw. The
factory sure bundles them very tight.

"whoyakidding" wrote in message ...

Have you noticed that we are being completely ignored by the OP?? LOL!!!!!

Well you know us dumb liberals. Too ****ing stupid to use a lathe and
a custom made pipe cutter attachment to cut thin walled stock. Wait
until he tries to lop off some square tubing in his lathe. That
discussion will go on for months.

You just have to ask yourself what kind of a moron would ask if a tubing cutter could be used for cutting off tubing to begin with....

So, not only is he a right wing nut-case and one of the biggest assholes I've ever had the displeasure of dealing with on usenet over the past 15 years or so, but he's also dumber that ****ing box of old door knobs--he's one of the very few individuals who go immediately back into my killfile if they happen to escape and to whom I wouldn't provide any sort of assistance even if their lives depended on it.

On Thu, 10 May 2012 12:16:04 -0400, Tom Gardner mars@tacks wrote:

I don't have a dry cut saw.

$265? Your time must be worth peanuts to even think of using a lathe
to avoid that expense.

The tube becomes the arbor hole by being press into a stack of wheel
brushes and rubber spacers using a 50 ton hydraulic press. Any
resistance from a burr or any other defect and the tube becomes an
accordion and is very difficult to recover the parts.

I can't believe you haven't already tried a wire wheel for deburring.
Seriously you should hire someone that has at least 3 months
experience at low tech fabrication to teach you the basics.

Most of the orders are for 4" and the company that cuts those for us
does a good job...the should, they charge $0.50 each!

Whoa! Man you're tighter than two coats of paint.

The orders for 2'
and 3" are very few by comparison but are a pain and we have to have a
skilled person do the job.

Skilled person to lop off tubing? Arf arf. It must be a hullabaloo
there when it comes time to change the filter in the shop vac.

On Thu, 10 May 2012 10:50:51 -0700, "PrecisionmachinisT"
wrote:


"whoyakidding" wrote in message ...

Have you noticed that we are being completely ignored by the OP?? LOL!!!!!

Well you know us dumb liberals. Too ****ing stupid to use a lathe and
a custom made pipe cutter attachment to cut thin walled stock. Wait
until he tries to lop off some square tubing in his lathe. That
discussion will go on for months.

You just have to ask yourself what kind of a moron would ask if a tubing cutter could be used for cutting off tubing to begin with....

The whole thing is bizarre. Last week it was the fabricator that
didn't know how to drill holes.

So, not only is he a right wing nut-case and one of the biggest assholes
I've ever had the displeasure of dealing with on usenet over the past
15 years or so, but he's also dumber that ****ing box of old
door knobs--he's one of the very few individuals who go immediately
back into my killfile if they happen to escape and to whom I
wouldn't provide any sort of assistance even if their lives depended on it.

Windbag arsehole needs help with the most basic of shop tasks.
Leftards to the rescue! But the supposedly successful businessman
balks at investing in the obvious solution even though it's
ridiculously affordable and could be overnighted. What could be
better?

Tom Gardner wrote:
On 5/10/2012 12:23 AM, wrote:
On Thu, 10 May 2012 04:09:17 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

Tom Gardnermars@tacks wrote:
We use 2" x .049 wall tube cut 4" and deburred. We also use three
shorter lengths but in small quantities. I usually get 200' and send it
out. For the short lengths, we cut the tube on a bandsaw then deburr
each end, inner and outer, in a lathe.

Would it work if I slide 1' pieces onto a mandrel in the lathe and used
a pizza cutter type wheel in the cross slide to part the tube? Kind of
like a pipe cutter.
You want to cut long pieces of tubing into 1 foot ones, then cut those up
more on a lathe?

Do those pieces then get cut up again on some other machine?



bigger question - is it a big-assed lathe that you can feed the 2"
pipe through the spindle? Would definitely simplify things if it is.
In my last post I was ASSuming that was the case.

Hmm, it's a Reed Prentice and I think two inch WILL fit!
(here's the finished product
http://www.wisesales.com/power-equip...wer-broom.html



Easy then. Roller support on the long side. Feed tubing through lathe.
Make a stop that you can release to rotate 90 degrees and back to
alignment with an expanding rubber piece to hold the tubing in place. If
you wanted to make it more automated you could install a couple carbide
pieces that would de-burr the inner lip before the rubber section
expands. You would also want a stop that can be lifted up to stop the
tubing in line with the first operation.

Tubing feeds into lathe. Hits the first stop. Operator drops the stop
and uses a V shaped carbide to deburr both inside and outside edge.
Operator feeds the tube onto the end stop and locks it in place. Parting
tool on the tool holder cuts the tubing off. You can even have the tool
shaped so it deburrs the outside for the next step. Operator unlocks
the end stop and rotates it out and uses a simple hand tool or powered
handpiece to de-burr the inside. Remove finished part and repeat. Almost
like a screw machine.

--
Steve W.

"PrecisionmachinisT" wrote in message
news:Kc6dnYUBroOcnTHSnZ2dnUVZ_v6dnZ2d@scnresearch. com...

"whoyakidding" wrote in message
...

Have you noticed that we are being completely ignored by the OP??
LOL!!!!!

Well you know us dumb liberals. Too ****ing stupid to use a lathe and
a custom made pipe cutter attachment to cut thin walled stock. Wait
until he tries to lop off some square tubing in his lathe. That
discussion will go on for months.

You just have to ask yourself what kind of a moron would ask if a tubing
cutter could be used for cutting off tubing to begin with....
=================================================

Ahm not the brightest machining buhb, but even I thought that was weird....
I don't like using tubing cutters, even for plumbing!!!!
Yet, did you notice, most of the responses in this thread entertained this
notion.... WTF???



So, not only is he a right wing nut-case and one of the biggest assholes
I've ever had the displeasure of dealing with on usenet over the past 15
years or so, but he's also dumber that ****ing box of old door knobs--he's
one of the very few individuals who go immediately back into my killfile if
they happen to escape and to whom I wouldn't provide any sort of assistance
even if their lives depended on it.
================================================== ==

You mean, I gave advice.... to a RePube??????????
That's like finding out yer date is a guy..... holy ****, I feel so....
unclean!!

Well, it could be worse than that:
I'm finding I agree more often than not with Ann Coulter, AND I have this
notion that Pat Buchanan is an intellectual....
Mebbe I'll feel better, more stable/at home, when I become fluent in
Spanish.....
--
EA

"whoyakidding" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 10 May 2012 12:16:04 -0400, Tom Gardner mars@tacks wrote:

I don't have a dry cut saw.

$265? Your time must be worth peanuts to even think of using a lathe
to avoid that expense.

The tube becomes the arbor hole by being press into a stack of wheel
brushes and rubber spacers using a 50 ton hydraulic press. Any
resistance from a burr or any other defect and the tube becomes an
accordion and is very difficult to recover the parts.

I can't believe you haven't already tried a wire wheel for deburring.
Seriously you should hire someone that has at least 3 months
experience at low tech fabrication to teach you the basics.

Most of the orders are for 4" and the company that cuts those for us
does a good job...the should, they charge $0.50 each!

Whoa! Man you're tighter than two coats of paint.

The orders for 2'
and 3" are very few by comparison but are a pain and we have to have a
skilled person do the job.

Skilled person to lop off tubing? Arf arf. It must be a hullabaloo
there when it comes time to change the filter in the shop vac.

The parts CAN be deburred with a wire wheel but the edges need just a bit of
chamfer.

I have to watch every penny, especially to conform to new regulations,
increased taxes, increased medical insurance and increased costs in
general...AND, I have to compete with the China, Germany, Spain and even
Russia. I've had many products stolen and produced overseas. Our gov.
doesn't care about patents or American manufacturing in general.

I'm in the inner city, a lot of my people are very low skilled but have
pride and like the feeling of accomplishment, of having a job and producing
something, feeding their families and contributing to society and the
community. Most have to be trained to read a tape measure. Have you ever
taught someone that has no concept of fractions to read a tape measure? I
have people that can't count yet alone do multiplication or division. None
can run machine tools or even a chop saw, I have to get a mechanic or
machinist or a supervisor to do those jobs...that's not part of production.
BUT---some of the e4mployees are absolute ARTISTS making product!

"Steve W." wrote in message
...
Tom Gardner wrote:
On 5/10/2012 12:23 AM, wrote:
On Thu, 10 May 2012 04:09:17 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

Tom Gardnermars@tacks wrote:
We use 2" x .049 wall tube cut 4" and deburred. We also use three
shorter lengths but in small quantities. I usually get 200' and send
it
out. For the short lengths, we cut the tube on a bandsaw then deburr
each end, inner and outer, in a lathe.

Would it work if I slide 1' pieces onto a mandrel in the lathe and
used
a pizza cutter type wheel in the cross slide to part the tube? Kind
of
like a pipe cutter.
You want to cut long pieces of tubing into 1 foot ones, then cut those
up
more on a lathe?

Do those pieces then get cut up again on some other machine?



bigger question - is it a big-assed lathe that you can feed the 2"
pipe through the spindle? Would definitely simplify things if it is.
In my last post I was ASSuming that was the case.

Hmm, it's a Reed Prentice and I think two inch WILL fit!
(here's the finished product
http://www.wisesales.com/power-equip...wer-broom.html



Easy then. Roller support on the long side. Feed tubing through lathe.
Make a stop that you can release to rotate 90 degrees and back to
alignment with an expanding rubber piece to hold the tubing in place. If
you wanted to make it more automated you could install a couple carbide
pieces that would de-burr the inner lip before the rubber section expands.
You would also want a stop that can be lifted up to stop the tubing in
line with the first operation.

Tubing feeds into lathe. Hits the first stop. Operator drops the stop and
uses a V shaped carbide to deburr both inside and outside edge.
Operator feeds the tube onto the end stop and locks it in place. Parting
tool on the tool holder cuts the tubing off. You can even have the tool
shaped so it deburrs the outside for the next step. Operator unlocks the
end stop and rotates it out and uses a simple hand tool or powered
handpiece to de-burr the inside. Remove finished part and repeat. Almost
like a screw machine.

--
Steve W.

Good idea!

On 5/10/2012 2:23 PM, Existential Angst wrote:

You just have to ask yourself what kind of a moron would ask if a tubing
cutter could be used for cutting off tubing to begin with....
=================================================

Ahm not the brightest machining buhb, but even I thought that was weird....
I don't like using tubing cutters, even for plumbing!!!!
Yet, did you notice, most of the responses in this thread entertained this
notion.... WTF???



I would like to see ANYBODY cut 2" x .049" wall tube with a tube cutter.
It seems that politics overrides physics...loudly.

On 5/10/2012 2:09 PM, whoyakidding wrote:
On Thu, 10 May 2012 10:50:51 -0700, "PrecisionmachinisT"
wrote:


wrote in message ...

Have you noticed that we are being completely ignored by the OP?? LOL!!!!!

Well you know us dumb liberals. Too ****ing stupid to use a lathe and
a custom made pipe cutter attachment to cut thin walled stock. Wait
until he tries to lop off some square tubing in his lathe. That
discussion will go on for months.

You just have to ask yourself what kind of a moron would ask if a tubing cutter could be used for cutting off tubing to begin with....

The whole thing is bizarre. Last week it was the fabricator that
didn't know how to drill holes.

So, not only is he a right wing nut-case and one of the biggest assholes
I've ever had the displeasure of dealing with on usenet over the past
15 years or so, but he's also dumber that ****ing box of old
door knobs--he's one of the very few individuals who go immediately
back into my killfile if they happen to escape and to whom I
wouldn't provide any sort of assistance even if their lives depended on it.

Windbag arsehole needs help with the most basic of shop tasks.
Leftards to the rescue! But the supposedly successful businessman
balks at investing in the obvious solution even though it's
ridiculously affordable and could be overnighted. What could be
better?

Please explain how your dry saw is superior to bandsawing 6 pieces at a
time in less than a minute without the noise and flying chips. The
parts STILL have to be deburred/chamfered. What am I missing?

I used a Milwaukee 14" abrasive chop saw and two different wheels today
and the results were HORRIBLE! The burrs were 10x the bandsaw and it
took five times as long per piece.

Or, you can just fling insults if you have no worthwhile answers, I
don't mind, those are amusing too.

On Thu, 10 May 2012 17:37:15 -0400, "Tom Gardner" wrote:


"whoyakidding" wrote in message
.. .
On Thu, 10 May 2012 12:16:04 -0400, Tom Gardner mars@tacks wrote:

I don't have a dry cut saw.

$265? Your time must be worth peanuts to even think of using a lathe
to avoid that expense.

The tube becomes the arbor hole by being press into a stack of wheel
brushes and rubber spacers using a 50 ton hydraulic press. Any
resistance from a burr or any other defect and the tube becomes an
accordion and is very difficult to recover the parts.

I can't believe you haven't already tried a wire wheel for deburring.
Seriously you should hire someone that has at least 3 months
experience at low tech fabrication to teach you the basics.

Most of the orders are for 4" and the company that cuts those for us
does a good job...the should, they charge $0.50 each!

Whoa! Man you're tighter than two coats of paint.

The orders for 2'
and 3" are very few by comparison but are a pain and we have to have a
skilled person do the job.

Skilled person to lop off tubing? Arf arf. It must be a hullabaloo
there when it comes time to change the filter in the shop vac.

The parts CAN be deburred with a wire wheel but the edges need just a bit of
chamfer.

I doubt that. You'll get a small radius with a coarse wire wheel
anyway. Plenty for pressing into a bore.

I have to watch every penny, especially to conform to new regulations,
increased taxes, increased medical insurance and increased costs in
general...AND, I have to compete with the China, Germany, Spain and even
Russia. I've had many products stolen and produced overseas. Our gov.
doesn't care about patents or American manufacturing in general.

Oh for christs sake don't try to blame your inexperience on the
****ing government.

I'm in the inner city, a lot of my people are very low skilled but have
pride and like the feeling of accomplishment, of having a job and producing
something, feeding their families and contributing to society and the
community. Most have to be trained to read a tape measure.

What a bunch of unmitigated horse****. I can accept that a skinflint
ends up with the lowest skilled that have their limitations but we're
talking about a chop saw. Left hand push right and right hand push
down repeat until they lose their sanity and all hope of a fulfilling
life.

Have you ever
taught someone that has no concept of fractions to read a tape measure?

You seem to have forgotten that you already claimed that I'd never
worked a day in my life and was living off cheese checks. That's how I
KNOW that your habit is to fall back on horse****. If you were twice
as smart you might realize how ridiculous you sound. Regardless
running a chop saw doesn't require knowing how to measure count or
speak and the idea that you can't train some kid who grew up on video
games how to do it is almost as ludicrous as setting the job up for
the same people to do on a lathe as if that's going to take less
skill.

I
have people that can't count yet alone do multiplication or division. None
can run machine tools or even a chop saw, I have to get a mechanic or
machinist or a supervisor to do those jobs

Arf arf. Your unskilled can't be trained for the easiest of tasks and
your skilled people do grunt jobs and your supervisor can't supervise
is that your story? And now you're on the internet having a guy you
claimed has never worked show you a page in the Northern Tool catalog.
Here's some good advice: if you won't hire someone that can take the
initiative in figuring out the fastest and easiest way to lop up some
tubing then use the time you waste on windbaggery to visit some
production shops to see how things are done.

On 5/10/2012 1:50 PM, PrecisionmachinisT wrote:

wrote in message ...

Have you noticed that we are being completely ignored by the OP?? LOL!!!!!

Well you know us dumb liberals. Too ****ing stupid to use a lathe and
a custom made pipe cutter attachment to cut thin walled stock. Wait
until he tries to lop off some square tubing in his lathe. That
discussion will go on for months.

You just have to ask yourself what kind of a moron would ask if a tubing cutter could be used for cutting off tubing to begin with....

So, not only is he a right wing nut-case and one of the biggest assholes I've ever had the displeasure of dealing with on usenet over the past 15 years or so, but he's also dumber that ****ing box of old door knobs--he's one of the very few individuals who go immediately back into my killfile if they happen to escape and to whom I wouldn't provide any sort of assistance even if their lives depended on it.




You've never posted anything but your little hate-rants. It seems you
don't know much yet pompously name yourself "precisionmachinist" to
pretend you have some skill. You certainly know nothing about thin wall
tubing. Have you EVER had an original thought? Or are you just a
water-carrier for somebody else?

PLEASE keep my on your killfile, I certainly don't want to have anything
to do with you and your little hate-filld rants. And, stay off my
threads, you have nothing...AFTER you post ONE original thought that you
have EVER had.

On Thu, 10 May 2012 20:05:17 -0400, Tom Gardner mars@tacks wrote:

On 5/10/2012 2:09 PM, whoyakidding wrote:
On Thu, 10 May 2012 10:50:51 -0700, "PrecisionmachinisT"
wrote:


wrote in message ...

Have you noticed that we are being completely ignored by the OP?? LOL!!!!!

Well you know us dumb liberals. Too ****ing stupid to use a lathe and
a custom made pipe cutter attachment to cut thin walled stock. Wait
until he tries to lop off some square tubing in his lathe. That
discussion will go on for months.

You just have to ask yourself what kind of a moron would ask if a tubing cutter could be used for cutting off tubing to begin with....

The whole thing is bizarre. Last week it was the fabricator that
didn't know how to drill holes.

So, not only is he a right wing nut-case and one of the biggest assholes
I've ever had the displeasure of dealing with on usenet over the past
15 years or so, but he's also dumber that ****ing box of old
door knobs--he's one of the very few individuals who go immediately
back into my killfile if they happen to escape and to whom I
wouldn't provide any sort of assistance even if their lives depended on it.

Windbag arsehole needs help with the most basic of shop tasks.
Leftards to the rescue! But the supposedly successful businessman
balks at investing in the obvious solution even though it's
ridiculously affordable and could be overnighted. What could be
better?

Please explain how your dry saw is superior to bandsawing 6 pieces at a
time in less than a minute without the noise and flying chips. The
parts STILL have to be deburred/chamfered. What am I missing?

Absolutely nothing. You're right you need a lathe for this job and an
operator from overseas because there's nobody here that can handle the
difficulty. Don't forget to keep complaining about that last part
because it makes everything go faster. Whatever you do don't buy or
even try a better tool for the job because it won't taste as good as
$300 of cheeseburgers.

On 5/10/2012 8:39 PM, whoyakidding wrote:
On Thu, 10 May 2012 17:37:15 -0400, "Tom wrote:


wrote in message
...
On Thu, 10 May 2012 12:16:04 -0400, Tom Gardnermars@tacks wrote:

I don't have a dry cut saw.

$265? Your time must be worth peanuts to even think of using a lathe
to avoid that expense.

The tube becomes the arbor hole by being press into a stack of wheel
brushes and rubber spacers using a 50 ton hydraulic press. Any
resistance from a burr or any other defect and the tube becomes an
accordion and is very difficult to recover the parts.

I can't believe you haven't already tried a wire wheel for deburring.
Seriously you should hire someone that has at least 3 months
experience at low tech fabrication to teach you the basics.

Most of the orders are for 4" and the company that cuts those for us
does a good job...the should, they charge $0.50 each!

Whoa! Man you're tighter than two coats of paint.

The orders for 2'
and 3" are very few by comparison but are a pain and we have to have a
skilled person do the job.

Skilled person to lop off tubing? Arf arf. It must be a hullabaloo
there when it comes time to change the filter in the shop vac.

The parts CAN be deburred with a wire wheel but the edges need just a bit of
chamfer.

I doubt that. You'll get a small radius with a coarse wire wheel
anyway. Plenty for pressing into a bore.

I have to watch every penny, especially to conform to new regulations,
increased taxes, increased medical insurance and increased costs in
general...AND, I have to compete with the China, Germany, Spain and even
Russia. I've had many products stolen and produced overseas. Our gov.
doesn't care about patents or American manufacturing in general.

Oh for christs sake don't try to blame your inexperience on the
****ing government.

I'm in the inner city, a lot of my people are very low skilled but have
pride and like the feeling of accomplishment, of having a job and producing
something, feeding their families and contributing to society and the
community. Most have to be trained to read a tape measure.

What a bunch of unmitigated horse****. I can accept that a skinflint
ends up with the lowest skilled that have their limitations but we're
talking about a chop saw. Left hand push right and right hand push
down repeat until they lose their sanity and all hope of a fulfilling
life.

Have you ever
taught someone that has no concept of fractions to read a tape measure?

You seem to have forgotten that you already claimed that I'd never
worked a day in my life and was living off cheese checks. That's how I
KNOW that your habit is to fall back on horse****. If you were twice
as smart you might realize how ridiculous you sound. Regardless
running a chop saw doesn't require knowing how to measure count or
speak and the idea that you can't train some kid who grew up on video
games how to do it is almost as ludicrous as setting the job up for
the same people to do on a lathe as if that's going to take less
skill.

I
have people that can't count yet alone do multiplication or division. None
can run machine tools or even a chop saw, I have to get a mechanic or
machinist or a supervisor to do those jobs

Arf arf. Your unskilled can't be trained for the easiest of tasks and
your skilled people do grunt jobs and your supervisor can't supervise
is that your story? And now you're on the internet having a guy you
claimed has never worked show you a page in the Northern Tool catalog.
Here's some good advice: if you won't hire someone that can take the
initiative in figuring out the fastest and easiest way to lop up some
tubing then use the time you waste on windbaggery to visit some
production shops to see how things are done.

This is a tiny job in the scheme of things and I was just hoping to do
it better, and questions make creative people think. Most people like a
challenge, notice how other people responded. It's a shame to degrade a
non-political, On-Topic thread but some people just are just that way.
Fine by me, I'll STILL write my opinions on the appropriate threads when
people post absurd liberal dogma that kills jobs, freedom and the economy.

You suggest I buy a HF piece of HF machinery for a test? They just
don't last, almost nothing they have is industrial rated. I'm sure it's
a very loud operation and won't do any better than cutting 6-off on a
bandsaw. How about I send you a tube and a check for your time to cut
so I can see if it's any better or faster?

"Tom Gardner" wrote
On 5/10/2012 2:23 PM, Existential Angst wrote:



I would like to see ANYBODY cut 2" x .049" wall tube with a tube
cutter. It seems that politics overrides physics...loudly.

I might not be able to supply video, but 2" emt with 0.065 walls can
be cut.

you might want to check out your local electrical supplier for
tools...

I can see
http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/122-Copp...e/EN/index.htm
being useful (but not cheap) both for cutting and cleaning at the same
station. might not be enough of a chamfer for you.

page 6 of the manual says up to 0.065 SS.wall thickness. all you would
need to do is set up a stop at the right location.

"Stephen B." wrote in message ...
"Tom Gardner" wrote
On 5/10/2012 2:23 PM, Existential Angst wrote:



I would like to see ANYBODY cut 2" x .049" wall tube with a tube
cutter. It seems that politics overrides physics...loudly.

I might not be able to supply video, but 2" emt with 0.065 walls can
be cut.

you might want to check out your local electrical supplier for
tools...

I can see
http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/122-Copp...e/EN/index.htm
being useful (but not cheap) both for cutting and cleaning at the same
station. might not be enough of a chamfer for you.

page 6 of the manual says up to 0.065 SS.wall thickness. all you would
need to do is set up a stop at the right location.


"SA90 cuts steel, stainless steel, titanium, copper and PVC tubes and pipes with a maximum O.D. of 3.550" and wall up to 0.250""

2.3 seconds per piece...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ty8QuGoN09A