I know I'm a little late ........ for this year, but .........

I really have a good supply of juniper wood. Burns really hot. I want to
set up a heat stove or two in my shop for next winter. How many here use
wood heat for shop use?

I got out the Coleman Buddy stove the other day, and fired it up. Really
warmed the place up, but I started feeling weird. I don't have a digital CO
monitor, so don't know how much CO it was giving off. I still really don't
want to spend a lot of $$$ on propane when I have free wood.

I would like to make a system that pulls outside air for combustion, and
just heats the room without using room air to run the stove.

Steve

I would like to make a system that pulls outside air for combustion, and
just heats the room without using room air to run the stove.

Steve


I've heated with wood for 58 years now. I think a good heat exchanger
is more important than outside air source for a shop, you need a few
air exchanges anyway. That said, my house heat system uses outside
air.

You can buy a wood stove cheaper than you can make one. But I made
mine with a very simple efficient design. It uses two barrels, lower
chamber is fire box, upper for heat exchanger. My "barrels" were
actually 24" diameter steel pipe. Then a large sheet metal plenum
around the whole thing and a furnace fan.

Karl

"Steve B" wrote in message
...
I know I'm a little late ........ for this year, but .........

I really have a good supply of juniper wood. Burns really hot. I
want to set up a heat stove or two in my shop for next winter. How
many here use wood heat for shop use?

I got out the Coleman Buddy stove the other day, and fired it up.
Really warmed the place up, but I started feeling weird. I don't
have a digital CO monitor, so don't know how much CO it was giving
off. I still really don't want to spend a lot of $$$ on propane
when I have free wood.

I would like to make a system that pulls outside air for combustion,
and just heats the room without using room air to run the stove.

Steve

My stove is in the basement and pulls in air through existing gaps
under doors etc. The cold air runs across the floor to the stove. I
wear boots and don't notice it. Very simple and effective.

I sealed the upper doors and windows so the warmed air can't escape,
like a hot air balloon that's open at the bottom. It doesn't matter
that air can leak into the basement. There is still some air exchange,
cooking smells go away in a few hours.

The indoor and outdoor humidity and dew point give a rough indication
of air exchanges. I tightened the house until winter humidity rose
from less than 20% to nearer 50%.

jsw

I picked up one of these a year or so ago...for $25

http://www.elitedeals.com/npl-1400.html

Simply stack your chimey to the outside and let it use internal air to
supply it. Few shops are tight enough to prevent enough O2 in to keep it
burning well.

Ive been burning cut wood scraps from an old building that I tore
down..well..cut down with a chain saw

good deal. you may not need it in your mild climate, but adding a heat
exchanger wood pun give you 50% more heat. A word of warning, the
more heat exchanger you have the dryer your wood has to be. You need
to run the fire hotter too. I know of a guy that puts a pint of used
motor oil in a quart oil bottle and toss it in the fire, burns REAL
hot.

Karl

"Karl Townsend" wrote in message

good deal. you may not need it in your mild climate, but adding a
heat
exchanger wood pun give you 50% more heat. A word of warning, the
more heat exchanger you have the dryer your wood has to be. You need
to run the fire hotter too. I know of a guy that puts a pint of used
motor oil in a quart oil bottle and toss it in the fire, burns REAL
hot.

Karl

My insurance doesn't allow heat exchangers on wood stoves, not that I
need one. When the stove is properly adjusted the magnetic stack
thermometer reads in the lower end of the recommended range, and
little or usually no smoke exits the chimney.
http://www.condar.com/mag_meters_dir...oodstoves.html

jsw

Karl Townsend on Thu, 22 Mar 2012
12:00:03 -0500 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:

I would like to make a system that pulls outside air for combustion, and
just heats the room without using room air to run the stove.

Steve


I've heated with wood for 58 years now. I think a good heat exchanger
is more important than outside air source for a shop, you need a few
air exchanges anyway. That said, my house heat system uses outside
air.

You can buy a wood stove cheaper than you can make one. But I made
mine with a very simple efficient design. It uses two barrels, lower
chamber is fire box, upper for heat exchanger. My "barrels" were
actually 24" diameter steel pipe. Then a large sheet metal plenum
around the whole thing and a furnace fan.

If you can. surround the firebox etc with "thermal mass" - bricks,
stones, etc - that way, you caput re radiant heat into the thermal
mass, and even out the heating and cooling cycles. "Russian Stoves"
is one google search - although I first ran into the idea in Bavaria.
--
pyotr
Go not to the Net for answers, for it will tell you Yes and no. And
you are a bloody fool, only an ignorant cretin would even ask the
question, forty two, 47, the second door, and how many blonde lawyers
does it take to change a lightbulb.

"Steve B" on Wed, 21 Mar 2012 18:58:05 -0700 typed
in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
I know I'm a little late ........ for this year, but .........

I really have a good supply of juniper wood. Burns really hot. I want to
set up a heat stove or two in my shop for next winter. How many here use
wood heat for shop use?

I got out the Coleman Buddy stove the other day, and fired it up. Really
warmed the place up, but I started feeling weird. I don't have a digital CO
monitor, so don't know how much CO it was giving off. I still really don't
want to spend a lot of $$$ on propane when I have free wood.

Get the CO monitor anyway.

I would like to make a system that pulls outside air for combustion, and
just heats the room without using room air to run the stove.

Look into "Thermal Mass" stoves. Basically, your firebox heats
rocks (or bricks), the air traveling over/through the bricks heats
you. "The Sunstone Superstove" is a good book on DIY, and a step by
step means of making one. It is A Project.
--
pyotr
Go not to the Net for answers, for it will tell you Yes and no. And
you are a bloody fool, only an ignorant cretin would even ask the
question, forty two, 47, the second door, and how many blonde lawyers
does it take to change a lightbulb.

My insurance doesn't allow heat exchangers on wood stoves, not that I
need one. When the stove is properly adjusted the magnetic stack
thermometer reads in the lower end of the recommended range, and
little or usually no smoke exits the chimney.
http://www.condar.com/mag_meters_dir...oodstoves.html

jsw


Ya, I've heard of that. They worry abot idiots burning green wood. The
system you have is fine with a low fire. For my shop, I start a raging
inferno in there, maybe 400,000 BTU to heat quickly. I'd lose half my
efficiency with just a plain box. My goal is to bring it from below
freezing to shirt sleeve while I eat my supper.

In short burning wood isn't for idiots. Know your equipment to get the
most out of it. And just like anything top quality well designed
equipment produces more.

Karl

On Sat, 24 Mar 2012 10:20:08 -0700, pyotr filipivich
wrote:

"Steve B" on Wed, 21 Mar 2012 18:58:05 -0700 typed
in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
I know I'm a little late ........ for this year, but .........

I really have a good supply of juniper wood. Burns really hot. I want to
set up a heat stove or two in my shop for next winter. How many here use
wood heat for shop use?

I got out the Coleman Buddy stove the other day, and fired it up. Really
warmed the place up, but I started feeling weird. I don't have a digital CO
monitor, so don't know how much CO it was giving off. I still really don't
want to spend a lot of $$$ on propane when I have free wood.

Get the CO monitor anyway.

I would like to make a system that pulls outside air for combustion, and
just heats the room without using room air to run the stove.

Look into "Thermal Mass" stoves. Basically, your firebox heats
rocks (or bricks), the air traveling over/through the bricks heats
you. "The Sunstone Superstove" is a good book on DIY, and a step by
step means of making one. It is A Project.

great idea if you want constant temp 24 X 7. I have a high efficeincy
wood stove with glass doors that uses an outside air source. Its then
surrounded with several tons of stone and concrete with dead air space
between. My friends and neighbors call it a fireplace, they just see
the outside. Its been the sole source of my home's heat for 20 years
now.

Karl

On Sat, 24 Mar 2012 10:20:08 -0700, pyotr filipivich
wrote:

Karl Townsend on Thu, 22 Mar 2012
12:00:03 -0500 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:

I would like to make a system that pulls outside air for combustion, and
just heats the room without using room air to run the stove.

Steve


I've heated with wood for 58 years now. I think a good heat exchanger
is more important than outside air source for a shop, you need a few
air exchanges anyway. That said, my house heat system uses outside
air.

You can buy a wood stove cheaper than you can make one. But I made
mine with a very simple efficient design. It uses two barrels, lower
chamber is fire box, upper for heat exchanger. My "barrels" were
actually 24" diameter steel pipe. Then a large sheet metal plenum
around the whole thing and a furnace fan.

If you can. surround the firebox etc with "thermal mass" - bricks,
stones, etc - that way, you caput re radiant heat into the thermal
mass, and even out the heating and cooling cycles. "Russian Stoves"
is one google search - although I first ran into the idea in Bavaria.
Depends on your goal. For my shop I want A LOT of heat quick. So this
isn't a good idea. In winter i only heat when I'm working in there,
maybe 40 days total and only 6 hours at a time.

karl

On Sat, 24 Mar 2012 08:08:19 -0500, Karl Townsend
wrote:



I picked up one of these a year or so ago...for $25

http://www.elitedeals.com/npl-1400.html

Simply stack your chimey to the outside and let it use internal air to
supply it. Few shops are tight enough to prevent enough O2 in to keep it
burning well.

Ive been burning cut wood scraps from an old building that I tore
down..well..cut down with a chain saw

good deal. you may not need it in your mild climate, but adding a heat
exchanger wood pun give you 50% more heat. A word of warning, the
more heat exchanger you have the dryer your wood has to be. You need
to run the fire hotter too. I know of a guy that puts a pint of used
motor oil in a quart oil bottle and toss it in the fire, burns REAL
hot.

Karl

The old fashioned way was to run the stove pipe across the room before
you connect up to the chimney. Put a bit of a slope on it (low end -
stove).
--
Cheers,

John B.

"John B." wrote in
message
...
On Sat, 24 Mar 2012 08:08:19 -0500, Karl
Townsend
wrote:



I picked up one of these a year or so ago...for
$25

http://www.elitedeals.com/npl-1400.html

Simply stack your chimey to the outside and let
it use internal air to
supply it. Few shops are tight enough to
prevent enough O2 in to keep it
burning well.

Ive been burning cut wood scraps from an old
building that I tore
down..well..cut down with a chain saw

good deal. you may not need it in your mild
climate, but adding a heat
exchanger wood pun give you 50% more heat. A
word of warning, the
more heat exchanger you have the dryer your wood
has to be. You need
to run the fire hotter too. I know of a guy that
puts a pint of used
motor oil in a quart oil bottle and toss it in
the fire, burns REAL
hot.

Karl

The old fashioned way was to run the stove pipe
across the room before
you connect up to the chimney. Put a bit of a
slope on it (low end -
stove).
--
Cheers,

John B.

So the liquid creosote will run back into the
stove? ;)}
This trick works with coal, not wood.

On Sun, 25 Mar 2012 10:36:30 -0400, "Phil Kangas"
wrote:


"John B." wrote in
message
.. .
On Sat, 24 Mar 2012 08:08:19 -0500, Karl
Townsend
wrote:



I picked up one of these a year or so ago...for
$25

http://www.elitedeals.com/npl-1400.html

Simply stack your chimey to the outside and let
it use internal air to
supply it. Few shops are tight enough to
prevent enough O2 in to keep it
burning well.

Ive been burning cut wood scraps from an old
building that I tore
down..well..cut down with a chain saw

good deal. you may not need it in your mild
climate, but adding a heat
exchanger wood pun give you 50% more heat. A
word of warning, the
more heat exchanger you have the dryer your wood
has to be. You need
to run the fire hotter too. I know of a guy that
puts a pint of used
motor oil in a quart oil bottle and toss it in
the fire, burns REAL
hot.

Karl

The old fashioned way was to run the stove pipe
across the room before
you connect up to the chimney. Put a bit of a
slope on it (low end -
stove).
--
Cheers,

John B.

So the liquid creosote will run back into the
stove? ;)}
This trick works with coal, not wood.

I don't know why but it was very much "Standard Operating Procedure"
when I was a young fellow, and wood stoves were common in those days.
--
Cheers,

John B.

"John B." wrote in
message
...
On Sun, 25 Mar 2012 10:36:30 -0400, "Phil
Kangas"
wrote:


"John B." wrote in
message
. ..
On Sat, 24 Mar 2012 08:08:19 -0500, Karl
Townsend
wrote:



I picked up one of these a year or so
ago...for
$25

http://www.elitedeals.com/npl-1400.html

Simply stack your chimey to the outside and
let
it use internal air to
supply it. Few shops are tight enough to
prevent enough O2 in to keep it
burning well.

Ive been burning cut wood scraps from an old
building that I tore
down..well..cut down with a chain saw

good deal. you may not need it in your mild
climate, but adding a heat
exchanger wood pun give you 50% more heat. A
word of warning, the
more heat exchanger you have the dryer your
wood
has to be. You need
to run the fire hotter too. I know of a guy
that
puts a pint of used
motor oil in a quart oil bottle and toss it in
the fire, burns REAL
hot.

Karl

The old fashioned way was to run the stove
pipe
across the room before
you connect up to the chimney. Put a bit of a
slope on it (low end -
stove).
--
Cheers,

John B.

So the liquid creosote will run back into the
stove? ;)}
This trick works with coal, not wood.

I don't know why but it was very much "Standard
Operating Procedure"
when I was a young fellow, and wood stoves were
common in those days.
--
Cheers,

John B.

I've just recently retired from the local
volunteer fire dept., the
last seven as chief, and we ran into many of these
long horizontal
runs of pipe and every single one of them were
trouble! The
most horrible creosote makers on earth! One place
even had
coffee cans placed under each joint to catch the
liquid! SCARY!!
Don't do this..... ;)}
phil k.

I cna believe this with propane, or low sulfur coal.

I guess there is a reason smoke stacks tend to be vertical? Thanks for the
field report, much more valuable than guess and miss.

One friend of mine heated with a wood fire to start, and then dripped in a
mix of kerosene and used crank case oil. He gave up after a couple friends
had them "get away" from them, and burn the place down.

Knew another guy who used used crankcase oil (settle the solids out, and
then use what's on top of the drum) with an oil burner. He'd start it with
fuel oil, switch to used crank case oil. Had to run the gun full time, and
then switch to fuel oil before shut down. Worked, for him.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Phil Kangas" wrote in message
...

The old fashioned way was to run the stove
pipe
across the room before
you connect up to the chimney. Put a bit of a
slope on it (low end -
stove).

I've just recently retired from the local
volunteer fire dept., the
last seven as chief, and we ran into many of these
long horizontal
runs of pipe and every single one of them were
trouble! The
most horrible creosote makers on earth! One place
even had
coffee cans placed under each joint to catch the
liquid! SCARY!!
Don't do this..... ;)}
phil k.

On Mon, 26 Mar 2012 09:39:18 -0400, "Phil Kangas"
wrote:


"John B." wrote in
message
.. .
On Sun, 25 Mar 2012 10:36:30 -0400, "Phil
Kangas"
wrote:


"John B." wrote in
message
...
On Sat, 24 Mar 2012 08:08:19 -0500, Karl
Townsend
wrote:



I picked up one of these a year or so
ago...for
$25

http://www.elitedeals.com/npl-1400.html

Simply stack your chimey to the outside and
let
it use internal air to
supply it. Few shops are tight enough to
prevent enough O2 in to keep it
burning well.

Ive been burning cut wood scraps from an old
building that I tore
down..well..cut down with a chain saw

good deal. you may not need it in your mild
climate, but adding a heat
exchanger wood pun give you 50% more heat. A
word of warning, the
more heat exchanger you have the dryer your
wood
has to be. You need
to run the fire hotter too. I know of a guy
that
puts a pint of used
motor oil in a quart oil bottle and toss it in
the fire, burns REAL
hot.

Karl

The old fashioned way was to run the stove
pipe
across the room before
you connect up to the chimney. Put a bit of a
slope on it (low end -
stove).
--
Cheers,

John B.

So the liquid creosote will run back into the
stove? ;)}
This trick works with coal, not wood.

I don't know why but it was very much "Standard
Operating Procedure"
when I was a young fellow, and wood stoves were
common in those days.
--
Cheers,

John B.

I've just recently retired from the local
volunteer fire dept., the
last seven as chief, and we ran into many of these
long horizontal
runs of pipe and every single one of them were
trouble! The
most horrible creosote makers on earth! One place
even had
coffee cans placed under each joint to catch the
liquid! SCARY!!
Don't do this..... ;)}
phil k.

I grew up with the horizontal stove pipe system across the ceiling of
themain living area of the house. The stove itself was a cast iron
"box stove" about 24" long x 18" wide x 18" tall on 6" leggs. We never
had problems with build up in the 25+ feet of stove pipe
( 5 up, 12 across, 8 up through a second floor bedroom to connect
with the chimney flue); of course, the pipes got taked down every
month and any residue knocked free and dumped out before they were put
back up, and, we burned only hard maple that had been cut at least
twelve months before. Another factor was the fact that both adults had
several years living with wood heat.

On Mon, 26 Mar 2012 22:58:53 -0400, wrote:

On Mon, 26 Mar 2012 09:39:18 -0400, "Phil Kangas"
wrote:


"John B." wrote in
message
. ..
On Sun, 25 Mar 2012 10:36:30 -0400, "Phil
Kangas"
wrote:


"John B." wrote in
message
m...
On Sat, 24 Mar 2012 08:08:19 -0500, Karl
Townsend
wrote:



I picked up one of these a year or so
ago...for
$25

http://www.elitedeals.com/npl-1400.html

Simply stack your chimey to the outside and
let
it use internal air to
supply it. Few shops are tight enough to
prevent enough O2 in to keep it
burning well.

Ive been burning cut wood scraps from an old
building that I tore
down..well..cut down with a chain saw

good deal. you may not need it in your mild
climate, but adding a heat
exchanger wood pun give you 50% more heat. A
word of warning, the
more heat exchanger you have the dryer your
wood
has to be. You need
to run the fire hotter too. I know of a guy
that
puts a pint of used
motor oil in a quart oil bottle and toss it in
the fire, burns REAL
hot.

Karl

The old fashioned way was to run the stove
pipe
across the room before
you connect up to the chimney. Put a bit of a
slope on it (low end -
stove).
--
Cheers,

John B.

So the liquid creosote will run back into the
stove? ;)}
This trick works with coal, not wood.

I don't know why but it was very much "Standard
Operating Procedure"
when I was a young fellow, and wood stoves were
common in those days.
--
Cheers,

John B.

I've just recently retired from the local
volunteer fire dept., the
last seven as chief, and we ran into many of these
long horizontal
runs of pipe and every single one of them were
trouble! The
most horrible creosote makers on earth! One place
even had
coffee cans placed under each joint to catch the
liquid! SCARY!!
Don't do this..... ;)}
phil k.

I grew up with the horizontal stove pipe system across the ceiling of
themain living area of the house. The stove itself was a cast iron
"box stove" about 24" long x 18" wide x 18" tall on 6" leggs. We never
had problems with build up in the 25+ feet of stove pipe
( 5 up, 12 across, 8 up through a second floor bedroom to connect
with the chimney flue); of course, the pipes got taked down every
month and any residue knocked free and dumped out before they were put
back up, and, we burned only hard maple that had been cut at least
twelve months before. Another factor was the fact that both adults had
several years living with wood heat.

I expect that experience may have had a hand in successful utilization
of stove pipes :-) Both my grandparents heated their houses with wood,
for most of their lives. In fact my maternal grandmother cooked with
wood, during the winter months, all her life.
--
Cheers,

John B.

"John B." wrote in
message
...
On Mon, 26 Mar 2012 22:58:53 -0400,
wrote:

On Mon, 26 Mar 2012 09:39:18 -0400, "Phil
Kangas"
wrote:


"John B." wrote in
message
...
On Sun, 25 Mar 2012 10:36:30 -0400, "Phil
Kangas"
wrote:


"John B." wrote in
message
om...
On Sat, 24 Mar 2012 08:08:19 -0500, Karl
Townsend
wrote:



I picked up one of these a year or so
ago...for
$25

http://www.elitedeals.com/npl-1400.html

Simply stack your chimey to the outside
and
let
it use internal air to
supply it. Few shops are tight enough to
prevent enough O2 in to keep it
burning well.

Ive been burning cut wood scraps from an
old
building that I tore
down..well..cut down with a chain saw

good deal. you may not need it in your mild
climate, but adding a heat
exchanger wood pun give you 50% more
heat. A
word of warning, the
more heat exchanger you have the dryer your
wood
has to be. You need
to run the fire hotter too. I know of a guy
that
puts a pint of used
motor oil in a quart oil bottle and toss it
in
the fire, burns REAL
hot.

Karl

The old fashioned way was to run the stove
pipe
across the room before
you connect up to the chimney. Put a bit of
a
slope on it (low end -
stove).
--
Cheers,

John B.

So the liquid creosote will run back into the
stove? ;)}
This trick works with coal, not wood.

I don't know why but it was very much
"Standard
Operating Procedure"
when I was a young fellow, and wood stoves
were
common in those days.
--
Cheers,

John B.

I've just recently retired from the local
volunteer fire dept., the
last seven as chief, and we ran into many of
these
long horizontal
runs of pipe and every single one of them were
trouble! The
most horrible creosote makers on earth! One
place
even had
coffee cans placed under each joint to catch
the
liquid! SCARY!!
Don't do this..... ;)}
phil k.

I grew up with the horizontal stove pipe system
across the ceiling of
themain living area of the house. The stove
itself was a cast iron
"box stove" about 24" long x 18" wide x 18" tall
on 6" leggs. We never
had problems with build up in the 25+ feet of
stove pipe
( 5 up, 12 across, 8 up through a second floor
bedroom to connect
with the chimney flue); of course, the pipes got
taked down every
month and any residue knocked free and dumped
out before they were put
back up, and, we burned only hard maple that had
been cut at least
twelve months before. Another factor was the
fact that both adults had
several years living with wood heat.

I expect that experience may have had a hand in
successful utilization
of stove pipes :-) Both my grandparents heated
their houses with wood,
for most of their lives. In fact my maternal
grandmother cooked with
wood, during the winter months, all her life.
--
Cheers,

John B.

There ya go, keep it clean! We only got to see the
bad ones.... ;)}
btw, check your dryer vent too ......

On Tue, 27 Mar 2012 20:13:06 -0400, "Phil Kangas"
wrote:


"John B." wrote in
message
.. .
On Mon, 26 Mar 2012 22:58:53 -0400,
wrote:


I grew up with the horizontal stove pipe system
across the ceiling of
themain living area of the house. The stove
itself was a cast iron
"box stove" about 24" long x 18" wide x 18" tall
on 6" leggs. We never
had problems with build up in the 25+ feet of
stove pipe
( 5 up, 12 across, 8 up through a second floor
bedroom to connect
with the chimney flue); of course, the pipes got
taked down every
month and any residue knocked free and dumped
out before they were put
back up, and, we burned only hard maple that had
been cut at least
twelve months before. Another factor was the
fact that both adults had
several years living with wood heat.

I expect that experience may have had a hand in
successful utilization
of stove pipes :-) Both my grandparents heated
their houses with wood,
for most of their lives. In fact my maternal
grandmother cooked with
wood, during the winter months, all her life.
--
Cheers,

John B.

There ya go, keep it clean! We only got to see the
bad ones.... ;)}
btw, check your dryer vent too ......


Every so often I see the blurb about "Don't use dryer sheets, they
plug up your lint trap - "See I'll show you that water won't even go
through it!" Well, the dryer sheet deposits a water repelling coating
to fibers, so I would be very surprised if water would go through a
fabric mesh coated with this repellant; OTOH, what are you trying
toput through this lint trap mesh? certainly not liquid H2O.
After 24 years in this house (using three to five dryer sheets every
week) I replaced the 30 year old laundry equipment and decided that
perhaps I should clean the vent ducts. Guess what? the ducting did
have a thin film of lint adhered to the metal 4" duct - maybe 1/16"
thick.
Mind you, I do use a dedicated "shop vac" in the laundry room
vicinity to collect lint from the lint trap after every load and it
doesn't have any problem sucking air through the fabric softener
coated lint trap mesh, mind you, this is an electricly heated dryer.
Junior, OTOH, had problems with his Gas fired system. The 1/2" mesh
screen in the outlet did build up a lint blockage that prevented air
flow. Now that he has removed the screen, and checks for and removes
buildup yearly, everything works great!

You think that's the source of the flames shooting out the side?

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Phil Kangas" wrote in message
...

There ya go, keep it clean! We only got to see the
bad ones.... ;)}
btw, check your dryer vent too ......

On Tue, 27 Mar 2012 20:13:06 -0400, "Phil Kangas"
wrote:


"John B." wrote in
message
.. .
On Mon, 26 Mar 2012 22:58:53 -0400,
wrote:

On Mon, 26 Mar 2012 09:39:18 -0400, "Phil
Kangas"
wrote:


"John B." wrote in
message
m...
On Sun, 25 Mar 2012 10:36:30 -0400, "Phil
Kangas"
wrote:


"John B." wrote in
message
news:5lrsm71ffvq836dfnim80v8um1kb1gb1n9@4ax. com...
On Sat, 24 Mar 2012 08:08:19 -0500, Karl
Townsend
wrote:



I picked up one of these a year or so
ago...for
$25

http://www.elitedeals.com/npl-1400.html

Simply stack your chimey to the outside
and
let
it use internal air to
supply it. Few shops are tight enough to
prevent enough O2 in to keep it
burning well.

Ive been burning cut wood scraps from an
old
building that I tore
down..well..cut down with a chain saw

good deal. you may not need it in your mild
climate, but adding a heat
exchanger wood pun give you 50% more
heat. A
word of warning, the
more heat exchanger you have the dryer your
wood
has to be. You need
to run the fire hotter too. I know of a guy
that
puts a pint of used
motor oil in a quart oil bottle and toss it
in
the fire, burns REAL
hot.

Karl

The old fashioned way was to run the stove
pipe
across the room before
you connect up to the chimney. Put a bit of
a
slope on it (low end -
stove).
--
Cheers,

John B.

So the liquid creosote will run back into the
stove? ;)}
This trick works with coal, not wood.

I don't know why but it was very much
"Standard
Operating Procedure"
when I was a young fellow, and wood stoves
were
common in those days.
--
Cheers,

John B.

I've just recently retired from the local
volunteer fire dept., the
last seven as chief, and we ran into many of
these
long horizontal
runs of pipe and every single one of them were
trouble! The
most horrible creosote makers on earth! One
place
even had
coffee cans placed under each joint to catch
the
liquid! SCARY!!
Don't do this..... ;)}
phil k.

I grew up with the horizontal stove pipe system
across the ceiling of
themain living area of the house. The stove
itself was a cast iron
"box stove" about 24" long x 18" wide x 18" tall
on 6" leggs. We never
had problems with build up in the 25+ feet of
stove pipe
( 5 up, 12 across, 8 up through a second floor
bedroom to connect
with the chimney flue); of course, the pipes got
taked down every
month and any residue knocked free and dumped
out before they were put
back up, and, we burned only hard maple that had
been cut at least
twelve months before. Another factor was the
fact that both adults had
several years living with wood heat.

I expect that experience may have had a hand in
successful utilization
of stove pipes :-) Both my grandparents heated
their houses with wood,
for most of their lives. In fact my maternal
grandmother cooked with
wood, during the winter months, all her life.
--
Cheers,

John B.

There ya go, keep it clean! We only got to see the
bad ones.... ;)}
btw, check your dryer vent too ......

Grandma's "dryer" was a clothesline stretched across the kitchen. No
vent :-)

--
Cheers,

John B.

Mine is also indoor clothes line. Been so, since 1994. Works fine, for me.
Less lint loss, also. My clothes don't get threadbare as fast.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"John B." wrote in message
...

There ya go, keep it clean! We only got to see the
bad ones.... ;)}
btw, check your dryer vent too ......

Grandma's "dryer" was a clothesline stretched across the kitchen. No
vent :-)

--
Cheers,

John B.

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
Mine is also indoor clothes line. Been so, since 1994. Works fine,
for me.
Less lint loss, also. My clothes don't get threadbare as fast.

Christopher A. Young

Mine is outdoors, partly under a porch roof. It works fine all year
round, even through New England winters. The winter sun and low
humidity dry clothes the same way they dry roads.

I do have to relocate the bird feeder when the laundry is out.

Once when the feeder was hanging out back in the woods and I was
taking down the laundry a nuthatch buzzed around me, perching nearby
and fanning its wings to get my attention. When I pointed my arm
towards the feeder it looked and then shot off in that direction.

I've trained dogs to look, sniff or go-lie-down where I'm pointing but
that's the only time I've seen a wild creature understand it.
http://www.dolphincommunicationproje...4&Ite mid=263

jsw

Wow, that's neat. I'm glad you were able to communicate.

There is a "fish hatchery" I've visited. If you wave your arm, the fish come
a'running, they are used to being fed fish food by people who wave an arm as
they throw the fish food in.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
...


Mine is outdoors, partly under a porch roof. It works fine all year
round, even through New England winters. The winter sun and low
humidity dry clothes the same way they dry roads.

I do have to relocate the bird feeder when the laundry is out.

Once when the feeder was hanging out back in the woods and I was
taking down the laundry a nuthatch buzzed around me, perching nearby
and fanning its wings to get my attention. When I pointed my arm
towards the feeder it looked and then shot off in that direction.

I've trained dogs to look, sniff or go-lie-down where I'm pointing but
that's the only time I've seen a wild creature understand it.
http://www.dolphincommunicationproje...4&Ite mid=263

jsw

"Stormin Mormon"
wrote in
message
.. .
Wow, that's neat. I'm glad you were able to
communicate.

There is a "fish hatchery" I've visited. If you
wave your arm, the fish come
a'running, they are used to being fed fish food
by people who wave an arm as
they throw the fish food in.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

"Jim Wilkins" wrote in
message
...


Mine is outdoors, partly under a porch roof. It
works fine all year
round, even through New England winters. The
winter sun and low
humidity dry clothes the same way they dry
roads.

I do have to relocate the bird feeder when the
laundry is out.

Once when the feeder was hanging out back in the
woods and I was
taking down the laundry a nuthatch buzzed around
me, perching nearby
and fanning its wings to get my attention. When
I pointed my arm
towards the feeder it looked and then shot off
in that direction.

I've trained dogs to look, sniff or go-lie-down
where I'm pointing but
that's the only time I've seen a wild creature
understand it.
http://www.dolphincommunicationproje...4&Ite mid=263

jsw

Last fall I heard a bump on the shop window. Went
out to see what
happened. It was a wren. I picked it up and its
eyes were moving
and the heart was going so it wasn't dead. Went to
the shop door
and leaned on the frame holding the wren in my
hand. It tried jumping
sort of but its brain was rattled bad. So I held
it in my cupped hands
to warm it and it settled down and closed its
eyes. Slept for 5 mins
then woke up alert again. It hopped up on my
thumb, turned around
to look at me as if to say thanks and flew away! I
smiled the rest
of that day! Saved a little bird..... ;)} guess I
ain't all that bad... heh

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
.. .
Wow, that's neat. I'm glad you were able to communicate.

"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
...

Once when the feeder was hanging out back in the woods and I was
taking down the laundry a nuthatch buzzed around me, perching nearby
and fanning its wings to get my attention. When I pointed my arm
towards the feeder it looked and then shot off in that direction.

jsw

The communication goes both ways.

I was at the range sighting in a rifle, earmuffs on and concentrating
on steadyness, when I got that I'm Being Watched sensation. Thinking
it was a trespassing kid I unloaded, took off the earmuffs and checked
the road -- no one in sight, no engine sounds.

Okay, maybe I just imagined it. Still, it was a strong feeling, so I
looked all around.

About 30 meters behind me was a yearling deer, staring at me, snapping
at weeds and pretending to dart away like Lets Run and Play.

I talked, whistled and sang to it for a while, which makes deer look
at me with a very puzzled, curious expression, but as soon as I took a
step it raced off at full speed into the brush, presumably expecting
me to follow. Usually when I move my legs after talking to adult deer
that I've approached on wheels they just walk or lope away.

jsw

On Wed, 28 Mar 2012 14:14:10 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:


"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
. ..
Mine is also indoor clothes line. Been so, since 1994. Works fine,
for me.
Less lint loss, also. My clothes don't get threadbare as fast.

Christopher A. Young

Mine is outdoors, partly under a porch roof. It works fine all year
round, even through New England winters. The winter sun and low
humidity dry clothes the same way they dry roads.

I do have to relocate the bird feeder when the laundry is out.

Once when the feeder was hanging out back in the woods and I was
taking down the laundry a nuthatch buzzed around me, perching nearby
and fanning its wings to get my attention. When I pointed my arm
towards the feeder it looked and then shot off in that direction.

I've trained dogs to look, sniff or go-lie-down where I'm pointing but
that's the only time I've seen a wild creature understand it.
http://www.dolphincommunicationproje...4&Ite mid=263

Forget it, Jim. Dolphins get very, very dry in the woods. They don't
like it at all. It chaps their asses, it does.

--
"When the people fear their government, there is tyranny; when the
government fears the people, there is liberty." - Thomas Jefferson

Larry Jaques wrote:


I've trained dogs to look, sniff or go-lie-down where I'm pointing but
that's the only time I've seen a wild creature understand it.
http://www.dolphincommunicationproje...4&Ite mid=263

Forget it, Jim. Dolphins get very, very dry in the woods. They don't
like it at all. It chaps their asses, it does.
When did dolphins grow asses????
[Nobody tells me anything any more, damn I gotta get out to the Ocean
more often.]
jk

You are obviously a gentle man, with great compassion.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Phil Kangas" wrote in message
...

Last fall I heard a bump on the shop window. Went
out to see what
happened. It was a wren. I picked it up and its
eyes were moving
and the heart was going so it wasn't dead. Went to
the shop door
and leaned on the frame holding the wren in my
hand. It tried jumping
sort of but its brain was rattled bad. So I held
it in my cupped hands
to warm it and it settled down and closed its
eyes. Slept for 5 mins
then woke up alert again. It hopped up on my
thumb, turned around
to look at me as if to say thanks and flew away! I
smiled the rest
of that day! Saved a little bird..... ;)} guess I
ain't all that bad... heh

Few men have that experience. You have a gentle spirit?

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
...

The communication goes both ways.

I was at the range sighting in a rifle, earmuffs on and concentrating
on steadyness, when I got that I'm Being Watched sensation. Thinking
it was a trespassing kid I unloaded, took off the earmuffs and checked
the road -- no one in sight, no engine sounds.

Okay, maybe I just imagined it. Still, it was a strong feeling, so I
looked all around.

About 30 meters behind me was a yearling deer, staring at me, snapping
at weeds and pretending to dart away like Lets Run and Play.

I talked, whistled and sang to it for a while, which makes deer look
at me with a very puzzled, curious expression, but as soon as I took a
step it raced off at full speed into the brush, presumably expecting
me to follow. Usually when I move my legs after talking to adult deer
that I've approached on wheels they just walk or lope away.

jsw

"jk" wrote in message
...
Larry Jaques wrote:


I've trained dogs to look, sniff or go-lie-down where I'm pointing
but
that's the only time I've seen a wild creature understand it.
http://www.dolphincommunicationproje...4&Ite mid=263

Forget it, Jim. Dolphins get very, very dry in the woods. They
don't
like it at all. It chaps their asses, it does.

When did dolphins grow asses????
[Nobody tells me anything any more, damn I gotta get out to the
Ocean
more often.]
jk

There are rumors about The Little Mermaid.