"John B." wrote in
message
...
On Sun, 25 Mar 2012 10:36:30 -0400, "Phil
Kangas"
wrote:


"John B." wrote in
message
. ..
On Sat, 24 Mar 2012 08:08:19 -0500, Karl
Townsend
wrote:



I picked up one of these a year or so
ago...for
$25

http://www.elitedeals.com/npl-1400.html

Simply stack your chimey to the outside and
let
it use internal air to
supply it. Few shops are tight enough to
prevent enough O2 in to keep it
burning well.

Ive been burning cut wood scraps from an old
building that I tore
down..well..cut down with a chain saw

good deal. you may not need it in your mild
climate, but adding a heat
exchanger wood pun give you 50% more heat. A
word of warning, the
more heat exchanger you have the dryer your
wood
has to be. You need
to run the fire hotter too. I know of a guy
that
puts a pint of used
motor oil in a quart oil bottle and toss it in
the fire, burns REAL
hot.

Karl

The old fashioned way was to run the stove
pipe
across the room before
you connect up to the chimney. Put a bit of a
slope on it (low end -
stove).
--
Cheers,

John B.

So the liquid creosote will run back into the
stove? ;)}
This trick works with coal, not wood.

I don't know why but it was very much "Standard
Operating Procedure"
when I was a young fellow, and wood stoves were
common in those days.
--
Cheers,

John B.

I've just recently retired from the local
volunteer fire dept., the
last seven as chief, and we ran into many of these
long horizontal
runs of pipe and every single one of them were
trouble! The
most horrible creosote makers on earth! One place
even had
coffee cans placed under each joint to catch the
liquid! SCARY!!
Don't do this..... ;)}
phil k.