Great. Pete, there is nothing that you can possibly do to break these
drives with your Bridgeport mill, except for one thing: switch the
motor off by using your reversing switch on the mill, while the drive
is running. So keep this in mind. I am sure you knew, but I wanted to
say anyway.

The quietness factor alone is worth $120. So your speed adjustments,
and dynamic braking, are freebies.

i

Ignoramus12247 wrote:

Great. Pete, there is nothing that you can possibly do to break these
drives with your Bridgeport mill, except for one thing: switch the
motor off by using your reversing switch on the mill, while the drive
is running. So keep this in mind. I am sure you knew, but I wanted to
say anyway.

The quietness factor alone is worth $120. So your speed adjustments,
and dynamic braking, are freebies.

i

The existing drum switch will be removed, so no chance of switching
under power. I may mount the whole VFD up in that position since it's
not very heavy. Less fab work than a swing arm. Dunno, I'll see what
makes the most sense.

On 2008-05-21, Pete C. wrote:

Ignoramus12247 wrote:

Great. Pete, there is nothing that you can possibly do to break these
drives with your Bridgeport mill, except for one thing: switch the
motor off by using your reversing switch on the mill, while the drive
is running. So keep this in mind. I am sure you knew, but I wanted to
say anyway.

The quietness factor alone is worth $120. So your speed adjustments,
and dynamic braking, are freebies.

i

The existing drum switch will be removed, so no chance of switching
under power. I may mount the whole VFD up in that position since it's
not very heavy. Less fab work than a swing arm. Dunno, I'll see what
makes the most sense.

I would not remove it.

I usually flip this drum switch whenever I change the mill's gearing
from main gear to back gear. That way, forward on the drive always
means forward. Think about it.

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Ignoramus12247 wrote:

On 2008-05-21, Pete C. wrote:

Ignoramus12247 wrote:

Great. Pete, there is nothing that you can possibly do to break these
drives with your Bridgeport mill, except for one thing: switch the
motor off by using your reversing switch on the mill, while the drive
is running. So keep this in mind. I am sure you knew, but I wanted to
say anyway.

The quietness factor alone is worth $120. So your speed adjustments,
and dynamic braking, are freebies.

i

The existing drum switch will be removed, so no chance of switching
under power. I may mount the whole VFD up in that position since it's
not very heavy. Less fab work than a swing arm. Dunno, I'll see what
makes the most sense.

I would not remove it.

I usually flip this drum switch whenever I change the mill's gearing
from main gear to back gear. That way, forward on the drive always
means forward. Think about it.

I'm not too concerned for the one time every other year that I might use
the back gear.

On 2008-05-21, Ignoramus12247 wrote:
On 2008-05-21, Pete C. wrote:

Ignoramus12247 wrote:

On 2008-05-21, Pete C. wrote:

The VFDs arrived a few minutes ago. I expect I'll have one hooked up
within the hour


make sure to follow instructions. There is a one page there "getting
started" that tells you how to get your motor running, maybe not in
the most convenient way but you would see that the drive works.

Up and running. Now I need to build a mount for it.

Cool!

Will you make a little housing for a pot and a FWD-OFF-REV switch?

I presume that the lathe already has a drum switch, and it is
not that difficult to bypass the switch in the wiring to the motor, and
use the drum switch as the FWW/OFF/REV switch. This allows reflexes
built working with this machine to carry over to a standard one powered
from commercial three phase.

The real question is where to put the pot.

Post some pix...

Indeed so -- to the dropbox and post the URL to them here.

Also keep in mind, these drives that I sold to you, have dynamic
braking, this is nice for machines like lathes and mills. Highly
recommended to take advantage. Like a stop programmed in 1 second.

Indeed so -- and thus reversing in 2 seconds or less (depending
on the programmed start time).

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
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(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

On 2008-05-21, Ignoramus12247 wrote:
On 2008-05-21, Pete C. wrote:

Ignoramus12247 wrote:

On 2008-05-21, Pete C. wrote:

The VFDs arrived a few minutes ago. I expect I'll have one hooked up
within the hour


make sure to follow instructions. There is a one page there "getting
started" that tells you how to get your motor running, maybe not in
the most convenient way but you would see that the drive works.

Up and running. Now I need to build a mount for it.

Cool!

Will you make a little housing for a pot and a FWD-OFF-REV switch?

I presume that the lathe already has a drum switch, and it is
not that difficult to bypass the switch in the wiring to the motor, and
use the drum switch as the FWW/OFF/REV switch. This allows reflexes
built working with this machine to carry over to a standard one powered
from commercial three phase.

The real question is where to put the pot.

Post some pix...

Indeed so -- to the dropbox and post the URL to them here.

Also keep in mind, these drives that I sold to you, have dynamic
braking, this is nice for machines like lathes and mills. Highly
recommended to take advantage. Like a stop programmed in 1 second.

Indeed so -- and thus reversing in 2 seconds or less (depending
on the programmed start time).

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

It's a Bridgeport mill. No drum switch will remain and there will be no
speed pot. I'm quite comfortable with entering the speed and run stop
using the VFDs keypad. Rather similar to the Sxxxx M03 deal on a CNC.

On 2008-05-22, Pete C. wrote:
It's a Bridgeport mill. No drum switch will remain and there will be no
speed pot. I'm quite comfortable with entering the speed and run stop
using the VFDs keypad. Rather similar to the Sxxxx M03 deal on a CNC.

BP drum switch is kind of hard to rewire.

--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/

On 2008-05-22, Ignoramus12247 wrote:
On 2008-05-22, Pete C. wrote:
It's a Bridgeport mill. No drum switch will remain and there will be no
speed pot. I'm quite comfortable with entering the speed and run stop
using the VFDs keypad. Rather similar to the Sxxxx M03 deal on a CNC.

BP drum switch is kind of hard to rewire.

Why? -- The internal wiring of the drum switch is as follows:

LINE MOTOR
o----------+-----------o (L1)
L1) o--------o-------- |
o-------+ |
| /|\
o-------+- | ----------o (L2)
L2) o--------o-------- |
o----------+

o--------+
L3 o--------o-------- |
o--------+-------------o (L3)

And all you need to do is connect the one which I have marked
(L1-LINE) to the common on the VFD, and (L1-motor) to FWD, and
(L2-motor) to REV. Totally ignore all the rest of the terminals on the
switch. If you can't figure out which is which, use a multimeter to
find a terminal on the switch which is connected to another terminal
only in the FWD position and to a third terminal in the REV position.

If you want an "ABSOLUTELY OFF" position, hook L3-Line to one
side of the line, and L3-motor to one of the line power inputs of the
VFD, but I personally would not do that for two reasons:

1) I don't like mixing line power voltages and control voltages in
close proximity.

2) I don't like dropping line power from the VFD's input when
switching to "OFF", which will deprive you of the controlled
ramp-down in speed.

If you want to be fancy, you can add a limit switch where it is
hit by the arm of the back gear selector, connect that switch (SPDT)
common to the common on the VFD, and connect the two other terminals (NC
and NO) to the L1-LINE and L2-LINE terminals of the drum switch, so your
switch will always use "FWD" for forward and "REV" for reverse, whether
you have the back gear enabled or not.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On 2008-05-22, DoN. Nichols wrote:
On 2008-05-22, Ignoramus12247 wrote:
On 2008-05-22, Pete C. wrote:
It's a Bridgeport mill. No drum switch will remain and there will be no
speed pot. I'm quite comfortable with entering the speed and run stop
using the VFDs keypad. Rather similar to the Sxxxx M03 deal on a CNC.

BP drum switch is kind of hard to rewire.

Why? -- The internal wiring of the drum switch is as follows:

LINE MOTOR
o----------+-----------o (L1)
L1) o--------o-------- |
o-------+ |
| /|\
o-------+- | ----------o (L2)
L2) o--------o-------- |
o----------+

o--------+
L3 o--------o-------- |
o--------+-------------o (L3)


And all you need to do is connect the one which I have marked
(L1-LINE) to the common on the VFD, and (L1-motor) to FWD, and
(L2-motor) to REV. Totally ignore all the rest of the terminals on the
switch. If you can't figure out which is which, use a multimeter to
find a terminal on the switch which is connected to another terminal
only in the FWD position and to a third terminal in the REV position.

I looked at that. What I found difficult was not the schematic, but
that there are barely enough wire length coming out of the motor, to
reach the drum terminals. I think not even enough to make wire nut
connections. Schematic wise, you are 100% on target.

I also find the placement of the drum switch, to be not perfectly
convenient, at least for me.

So the only time when I reach for and switch it, is when changing from
direct to back gear.

i

On 2008-05-22, Ignoramus12247 wrote:
On 2008-05-22, DoN. Nichols wrote:
On 2008-05-22, Ignoramus12247 wrote:
On 2008-05-22, Pete C. wrote:
It's a Bridgeport mill. No drum switch will remain and there will be no
speed pot. I'm quite comfortable with entering the speed and run stop
using the VFDs keypad. Rather similar to the Sxxxx M03 deal on a CNC.

BP drum switch is kind of hard to rewire.

Why? -- The internal wiring of the drum switch is as follows:

[ ... ]

And all you need to do is connect the one which I have marked
(L1-LINE) to the common on the VFD, and (L1-motor) to FWD, and
(L2-motor) to REV. Totally ignore all the rest of the terminals on the
switch. If you can't figure out which is which, use a multimeter to
find a terminal on the switch which is connected to another terminal
only in the FWD position and to a third terminal in the REV position.

I looked at that. What I found difficult was not the schematic, but
that there are barely enough wire length coming out of the motor, to
reach the drum terminals. I think not even enough to make wire nut
connections. Schematic wise, you are 100% on target.

Hmm ... have you opened the wiring box on the motor? mine has a
set of nine wires which can either be configured as a 240 VAC three
phase motor, or a 480 VAC three phase motor. Get some appropriate wire
or oil-tite flexible conduit, and run it directly from the motor to the
VFD -- wherever you mount that. (And I would tend to mount it on the
back of the column -- best position to keep chips from falling on it and
working their way in to short the circuitry on the VFD.) then just run
the control wiring to the drum switch, and bolt a small housing for a
speed control pot on the bottom of the drum switch or somewhere nearby.
Obviously, plug the remaining conduit hole with a goof plug to keep
chips out of the switch contacts, too.

When I first got my Bridgeport, I pulled off the wire nuts, and
crimped on ring terminals for #6 screws, then stacked the terminals to
make the desired connections, used a screw, nut and lockwasher to hold
them together, and then put heat shrink tubing over the terminals. This
way, if I ever need/want to swtich it to 480V operation, I don't have to
add flex wear to the wires by uncrewing wire nuts, trying to straighen
the leads and re-twist them, and then put wire nuts back on them.

I also find the placement of the drum switch, to be not perfectly
convenient, at least for me.

O.K. That is personal -- but you can relocte the drum switch to
a place which you do find more convenient -- and I find it easier to
work the switch and a pot with oil-covered fingers than a set of
membrane keypad switches.

Hmm ... while you are about it, get one of those red mushroom
cap panic switches to hook in series with the common lead from the VFD,
so you can stop the spindle quickly at need -- for example a badly
out-of-balance fly cutter causing the machine to dance around the shop
floor. :-)

So the only time when I reach for and switch it, is when changing from
direct to back gear.

O.K. While I believe in using the drum switch and keeping the
VFD's keypad out of the way of hot chips and the like -- and keeping the
operating habits as close to the same as possible.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On Wed, 21 May 2008 19:29:05 -0500, "Pete C."
wrote:


It's a Bridgeport mill. No drum switch will remain and there will be no
speed pot. I'm quite comfortable with entering the speed and run stop
using the VFDs keypad. Rather similar to the Sxxxx M03 deal on a CNC.

Using the keypad to control the mill sacrifices much of the benefit
the VFD offers. I find large FWD-STOP-REV pushbuttons and a speed pot
in a convenient location a huge improvement over the the keypad,
especially when drilling and power tapping, drilling and reaming, or
for any operation where it's desirable to make quick speed changes or
start/stop/reverse easily.

http://www.suscom-maine.net/~nsimmons/news/MillVFD.JPG

--
Ned Simmons

On Wed, 21 May 2008 13:19:09 -0500, "Pete C."
wrote:


Will you make a little housing for a pot and a FWD-OFF-REV switch?

I doubt it, the front panel controls seem fine. Easy to enter the
frequency you want or use the up/down arrows to adjust it.


You may wish to reconsider not remoting a stop/forward/rev switch the
first time you try to tap something.........


Gunner

On Wed, 21 May 2008 13:38:45 -0500, "Pete C."
wrote:


Ignoramus12247 wrote:

Great. Pete, there is nothing that you can possibly do to break these
drives with your Bridgeport mill, except for one thing: switch the
motor off by using your reversing switch on the mill, while the drive
is running. So keep this in mind. I am sure you knew, but I wanted to
say anyway.

The quietness factor alone is worth $120. So your speed adjustments,
and dynamic braking, are freebies.

i

The existing drum switch will be removed, so no chance of switching
under power. I may mount the whole VFD up in that position since it's
not very heavy. Less fab work than a swing arm. Dunno, I'll see what
makes the most sense.


STOP! Use the drum switch to control fwd/stop/rev

Gunner

On 2008-05-22, DoN. Nichols wrote:
On 2008-05-22, Ignoramus12247 wrote:
On 2008-05-22, DoN. Nichols wrote:
On 2008-05-22, Ignoramus12247 wrote:
On 2008-05-22, Pete C. wrote:
It's a Bridgeport mill. No drum switch will remain and there will be no
speed pot. I'm quite comfortable with entering the speed and run stop
using the VFDs keypad. Rather similar to the Sxxxx M03 deal on a CNC.

BP drum switch is kind of hard to rewire.

Why? -- The internal wiring of the drum switch is as follows:

[ ... ]

And all you need to do is connect the one which I have marked
(L1-LINE) to the common on the VFD, and (L1-motor) to FWD, and
(L2-motor) to REV. Totally ignore all the rest of the terminals on the
switch. If you can't figure out which is which, use a multimeter to
find a terminal on the switch which is connected to another terminal
only in the FWD position and to a third terminal in the REV position.

I looked at that. What I found difficult was not the schematic, but
that there are barely enough wire length coming out of the motor, to
reach the drum terminals. I think not even enough to make wire nut
connections. Schematic wise, you are 100% on target.

Hmm ... have you opened the wiring box on the motor? mine has a
set of nine wires which can either be configured as a 240 VAC three
phase motor, or a 480 VAC three phase motor. Get some appropriate wire
or oil-tite flexible conduit, and run it directly from the motor to the
VFD -- wherever you mount that. (And I would tend to mount it on the
back of the column -- best position to keep chips from falling on it and
working their way in to short the circuitry on the VFD.) then just run
the control wiring to the drum switch, and bolt a small housing for a
speed control pot on the bottom of the drum switch or somewhere nearby.
Obviously, plug the remaining conduit hole with a goof plug to keep
chips out of the switch contacts, too.

When I first got my Bridgeport, I pulled off the wire nuts, and
crimped on ring terminals for #6 screws, then stacked the terminals to
make the desired connections, used a screw, nut and lockwasher to hold
them together, and then put heat shrink tubing over the terminals. This
way, if I ever need/want to swtich it to 480V operation, I don't have to
add flex wear to the wires by uncrewing wire nuts, trying to straighen
the leads and re-twist them, and then put wire nuts back on them.

I also find the placement of the drum switch, to be not perfectly
convenient, at least for me.

O.K. That is personal -- but you can relocte the drum switch to
a place which you do find more convenient -- and I find it easier to
work the switch and a pot with oil-covered fingers than a set of
membrane keypad switches.

Hmm ... while you are about it, get one of those red mushroom
cap panic switches to hook in series with the common lead from the VFD,
so you can stop the spindle quickly at need -- for example a badly
out-of-balance fly cutter causing the machine to dance around the shop
floor. :-)

So the only time when I reach for and switch it, is when changing from
direct to back gear.

O.K. While I believe in using the drum switch and keeping the
VFD's keypad out of the way of hot chips and the like -- and keeping the
operating habits as close to the same as possible.

My own VFD is different, it is a Delta S1. It has a pot and on/off
buttons, OK to use with a greasy hand.
--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/

Gunner wrote:

On Wed, 21 May 2008 13:19:09 -0500, "Pete C."
wrote:


Will you make a little housing for a pot and a FWD-OFF-REV switch?

I doubt it, the front panel controls seem fine. Easy to enter the
frequency you want or use the up/down arrows to adjust it.

You may wish to reconsider not remoting a stop/forward/rev switch the
first time you try to tap something.........

Gunner

I'll trust power tapping... once I find a nice used CNC with RT
option... until then I hand tap.

On Thu, 22 May 2008 07:20:15 -0500, "Pete C."
wrote:


Gunner wrote:

On Wed, 21 May 2008 13:19:09 -0500, "Pete C."
wrote:


Will you make a little housing for a pot and a FWD-OFF-REV switch?

I doubt it, the front panel controls seem fine. Easy to enter the
frequency you want or use the up/down arrows to adjust it.

You may wish to reconsider not remoting a stop/forward/rev switch the
first time you try to tap something.........

Gunner

I'll trust power tapping... once I find a nice used CNC with RT
option... until then I hand tap.


Its your machine, use or not use it as you choose.

Shrug

Gunner, who power taps regularly with his Gorton MasterMill and a VFD

On 2008-05-22, Gunner wrote:
On Thu, 22 May 2008 07:20:15 -0500, "Pete C."
wrote:


Gunner wrote:

On Wed, 21 May 2008 13:19:09 -0500, "Pete C."
wrote:


Will you make a little housing for a pot and a FWD-OFF-REV switch?

I doubt it, the front panel controls seem fine. Easy to enter the
frequency you want or use the up/down arrows to adjust it.

You may wish to reconsider not remoting a stop/forward/rev switch the
first time you try to tap something.........

Gunner

I'll trust power tapping... once I find a nice used CNC with RT
option... until then I hand tap.


Its your machine, use or not use it as you choose.

Shrug

Gunner, who power taps regularly with his Gorton MasterMill and a VFD


Do you use a tapping head or what? How do you hold taps?
--
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to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
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On Thu, 22 May 2008 11:24:11 -0500, Ignoramus14615
wrote:

On 2008-05-22, Gunner wrote:
On Thu, 22 May 2008 07:20:15 -0500, "Pete C."
wrote:


Gunner wrote:

On Wed, 21 May 2008 13:19:09 -0500, "Pete C."
wrote:


Will you make a little housing for a pot and a FWD-OFF-REV switch?

I doubt it, the front panel controls seem fine. Easy to enter the
frequency you want or use the up/down arrows to adjust it.

You may wish to reconsider not remoting a stop/forward/rev switch the
first time you try to tap something.........

Gunner

I'll trust power tapping... once I find a nice used CNC with RT
option... until then I hand tap.


Its your machine, use or not use it as you choose.

Shrug

Gunner, who power taps regularly with his Gorton MasterMill and a VFD


Do you use a tapping head or what? How do you hold taps?

I generally use the same drill chuck I drilled the hole with.
If Im going to tap more than 10 holes, I might install one of my Versa
Taps in the big drill press (also with a pendant and a VFD btw)

Gunner

Gunner wrote:

On Thu, 22 May 2008 07:20:15 -0500, "Pete C."
wrote:

Gunner wrote:
You may wish to reconsider not remoting a stop/forward/rev switch the
first time you try to tap something.........

Gunner

I'll trust power tapping... once I find a nice used CNC with RT
option... until then I hand tap.

Its your machine, use or not use it as you choose.
Shrug
Gunner, who power taps regularly with his Gorton MasterMill and a VFD

A big AMEN to that. I do it on a Bridgeport and wouldn't think
of going back to hand tapping for 80 or 90 % of the threaded holes.
Peice of cake. ( It did scare me the first few times I saw it
being done )
...lew...

Ignoramus14615 wrote:

Do you use a tapping head or what? How do you hold taps?

Don't know about Gunner but here is what I do:
http://s233.photobucket.com/albums/e...hofholders.jpg

http://s233.photobucket.com/albums/e...Tapholders.jpg

http://s233.photobucket.com/albums/e...hofholders.jpg

Works like a charm.
...lew...

On 2008-05-23, Lew Hartswick wrote:
Ignoramus14615 wrote:

Do you use a tapping head or what? How do you hold taps?

Don't know about Gunner but here is what I do:
http://s233.photobucket.com/albums/e...hofholders.jpg

Very nice concept. I like them.

Personally, I have a tapping head that is good up to 3/8. MT2

i

http://s233.photobucket.com/albums/e...Tapholders.jpg

http://s233.photobucket.com/albums/e...hofholders.jpg

Works like a charm.
...lew...

--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
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On Thu, 22 May 2008 20:07:01 -0600, Lew Hartswick
wrote:

Ignoramus14615 wrote:

Do you use a tapping head or what? How do you hold taps?

Don't know about Gunner but here is what I do:
http://s233.photobucket.com/albums/e...hofholders.jpg


What's the advantage over simply holding the tap in the chuck? Up to
3/8 or so an Albrecht chuck works fine for me. For larger taps, where
the Albrecht may release when backing out, I use a keyed chuck.

--
Ned Simmons

On 2008-05-23, Ned Simmons wrote:
On Thu, 22 May 2008 20:07:01 -0600, Lew Hartswick
wrote:

Ignoramus14615 wrote:

Do you use a tapping head or what? How do you hold taps?

Don't know about Gunner but here is what I do:
http://s233.photobucket.com/albums/e...hofholders.jpg


What's the advantage over simply holding the tap in the chuck? Up to
3/8 or so an Albrecht chuck works fine for me. For larger taps, where
the Albrecht may release when backing out, I use a keyed chuck.


So, Ned, does the tap ever slip inside the chuck?
--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
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On Thu, 22 May 2008 20:07:01 -0600, with neither quill nor qualm, Lew
Hartswick quickly quoth:

Ignoramus14615 wrote:

Do you use a tapping head or what? How do you hold taps?

Don't know about Gunner but here is what I do:
http://s233.photobucket.com/albums/e...hofholders.jpg

Ooh, nice tubafore, lew! What finish is that?

--
The best and safest thing is to keep a balance in your life,
acknowledge the great powers around us and in us. If you can
do that, and live that way, you are really a wise man.
-- Euripides

I have a Hardinge HC Chucker that I would sell. $2000 OBO. Some
tooling included. The machine is located in Central Illinois.

Bob

I have a Hardinge HC Chucker that I would sell. $2000 OBO. Some
tooling included. The machine is located in Central Illinois.

Bob

On Fri, 23 May 2008 07:12:46 -0500, Ignoramus20727
wrote:

On 2008-05-23, Ned Simmons wrote:
On Thu, 22 May 2008 20:07:01 -0600, Lew Hartswick
wrote:

Ignoramus14615 wrote:

Do you use a tapping head or what? How do you hold taps?

Don't know about Gunner but here is what I do:
http://s233.photobucket.com/albums/e...hofholders.jpg


What's the advantage over simply holding the tap in the chuck? Up to
3/8 or so an Albrecht chuck works fine for me. For larger taps, where
the Albrecht may release when backing out, I use a keyed chuck.


So, Ned, does the tap ever slip inside the chuck?

The last time I can recall a problem was tapping 3/4-10 holes in a big
piece of 1-1/4" Blanchard ground plate. The tap I had on hand looked
OK, but on close inspection was dull. With a new tap I was able to
drive the tap in a 5/8" ball bearing chuck.

I have a tap driver that has an adjustable clutch and end float, but
about the only thing I use it for is tapping the ends of 80-20 or Item
aluminum extrusion. You occasionally get a length that's unusually
gummy and the clutch helps to avoid buggering the hole.

--
Ned Simmons

Ned Simmons wrote:
On Thu, 22 May 2008 20:07:01 -0600, Lew Hartswick
wrote:


Ignoramus14615 wrote:

Do you use a tapping head or what? How do you hold taps?

Don't know about Gunner but here is what I do:
http://s233.photobucket.com/albums/e...hofholders.jpg



What's the advantage over simply holding the tap in the chuck? Up to
3/8 or so an Albrecht chuck works fine for me. For larger taps, where
the Albrecht may release when backing out, I use a keyed chuck.

Taps seem to slip in any chuck I've tried. The two setscrews
on opposite sides of the square end just do not have a chance
to slip :-) And they do back out fine.
...lew...

Larry Jaques wrote:

Ooh, nice tubafore, lew! What finish is that?

No finish. When I do woodworking I don't "FINISH" Ugh!
Ocasionally I have to slop on a coat of "polly" but
usually it's up to the little woman or someone else. :-)
...lew...

On Fri, 23 May 2008 20:52:58 -0600, with neither quill nor qualm, Lew
Hartswick quickly quoth:

Larry Jaques wrote:

Ooh, nice tubafore, lew! What finish is that?

No finish. When I do woodworking I don't "FINISH" Ugh!
Ocasionally I have to slop on a coat of "polly" but
usually it's up to the little woman or someone else. :-)

Frackin' HEATHEN! tsk tsk tsk

--

"Be the change you want to see in the world." --Mahatma Gandhi
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

"Greg O" wrote:

I am running a 1 HP motor off a 10 HP VFD. It works fine, but the motor
protection does not go down far enough. The lowest I can set max amps is 7
IIRC, that 1 hp motor runs 2-3 amps. I don't have any issue with it as the
motor runs only when I am standing there watching it, but if it were for
some application that ran when no one was a round there could be problems is
something failed.

They sell fuses for that issue.

Wes