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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Hardince HC Chucker -- someone needs help
I visited an interesting guy today, to whom I sold some VFD drives, to
set up one for him. Which was easy. (I am selling 3 HP drives for $100 a pop) Then he showed me his Hardinge HC chucker. It did not work right. He never ran it because of it. He hooked it up to his phase converter and it ran, however the speed adjustment knobs never worked. After a few minutes of running some "click" was heard and it stopped and would not restart. Just to be clear, we never hooked up his hardinge to any VFDs, I told him not to do it due to a jumble of relays in the control box. Is there anyone here who knows how these HCs work? Why would it click and not restart? Why is the motor that actuates the threaded rod that drives the speed adjustment hinge, never runs? This is not for me, it is for him. He is a NRA member and an all around great guy. If he could spend a few minutes on the phone with someone he would be delighted. He can make gun parts for you. -- Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by more readers you will need to find a different means of posting on Usenet. http://improve-usenet.org/ |
#2
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Hardince HC Chucker -- someone needs help
"Ignoramus8671" wrote in message ... Iggy, give me some more information about your VFD drives, please. I already have 3 phase in my shop, however, I am considering a VFD simply for speed control. Questions: Can a 3hp drive run a 2 hp motor, or do they have to be matched? Does your 3hp VFD work with 3phase input, or do I need to run on single phase? How do I buy from you? Ivan Vegvary |
#3
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Hardince HC Chucker -- someone needs help
On 2008-05-17, Ivan Vegvary wrote:
"Ignoramus8671" wrote in message ... Iggy, give me some more information about your VFD drives, please. I already have 3 phase in my shop, however, I am considering a VFD simply for speed control. Questions: Can a 3hp drive run a 2 hp motor, or do they have to be matched? The motor has to have a horsepower that the VFD can handle, but any HP below that is OK. Does your 3hp VFD work with 3phase input, or do I need to run on single phase? How do I buy from you? Works with single phase, only up to 2 HP motors. The person I visited today, used it on a Bridgeport and Index mills. i -- Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by more readers you will need to find a different means of posting on Usenet. http://improve-usenet.org/ |
#4
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Hardince HC Chucker -- someone needs help
Ignoramus8671 wrote:
The motor has to have a horsepower that the VFD can handle, but any HP below that is OK. .... When I was looking for a VFD and researching the ones that came up on eBay, there was one that said it shouldn't be used on motors of less than a certain hp. It didn't say why and I'm not saying that it's always true, just a heads-up that it can be the case that a VFD is too large for a motor. Bob |
#5
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Hardince HC Chucker -- someone needs help
On 2008-05-18, Bob Engelhardt wrote:
Ignoramus8671 wrote: The motor has to have a horsepower that the VFD can handle, but any HP below that is OK. ... When I was looking for a VFD and researching the ones that came up on eBay, there was one that said it shouldn't be used on motors of less than a certain hp. It didn't say why and I'm not saying that it's always true, just a heads-up that it can be the case that a VFD is too large for a motor. Are you sure that wasn't a "Static converter" instead of a VFDj? Those use a capacitor to produce enough phase shift to start the motor and then switch it out when the motor is spinning. And if the motor horsepower is too small, the phase shift won't be right and the motor will not start. (But you can change the capacitance value to a lower one to start a smaller motor with it.) The only way that I could see a true VFD having problems with too small a motor is if it is monitoring the current in each leg and if any leg is below a certain limit it might sound an alarm indicating that it thought that one motor winding had become disconnected. Enjoy, DoN. -- Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- |
#6
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Hardince HC Chucker -- someone needs help
DoN. Nichols wrote:
Are you sure that wasn't a "Static converter" instead of a VFDj? .... Absolutely & positively sure - it was a VFD |
#7
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Hardince HC Chucker -- someone needs help
"Bob Engelhardt" wrote in message
. .. Ignoramus8671 wrote: The motor has to have a horsepower that the VFD can handle, but any HP below that is OK. ... When I was looking for a VFD and researching the ones that came up on eBay, there was one that said it shouldn't be used on motors of less than a certain hp. It didn't say why and I'm not saying that it's always true, just a heads-up that it can be the case that a VFD is too large for a motor. Bob I am running a 1 HP motor off a 10 HP VFD. It works fine, but the motor protection does not go down far enough. The lowest I can set max amps is 7 IIRC, that 1 hp motor runs 2-3 amps. I don't have any issue with it as the motor runs only when I am standing there watching it, but if it were for some application that ran when no one was a round there could be problems is something failed. Greg |
#8
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Hardince HC Chucker -- someone needs help
For what it's worth, I have two extra 1 HP VFDs - in my pile of "probably
useful stuff" - both tested and working - go to my web page, wbnoble.com and find my email address if you are interested - and I have a couple of 440V ones as well (but I couldn't test them) "Greg O" wrote in message ... "Bob Engelhardt" wrote in message . .. Ignoramus8671 wrote: The motor has to have a horsepower that the VFD can handle, but any HP below that is OK. ... When I was looking for a VFD and researching the ones that came up on eBay, there was one that said it shouldn't be used on motors of less than a certain hp. It didn't say why and I'm not saying that it's always true, just a heads-up that it can be the case that a VFD is too large for a motor. Bob I am running a 1 HP motor off a 10 HP VFD. It works fine, but the motor protection does not go down far enough. The lowest I can set max amps is 7 IIRC, that 1 hp motor runs 2-3 amps. I don't have any issue with it as the motor runs only when I am standing there watching it, but if it were for some application that ran when no one was a round there could be problems is something failed. Greg ** Posted from http://www.teranews.com ** |
#9
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Hardince HC Chucker -- someone needs help
"Greg O" wrote:
I am running a 1 HP motor off a 10 HP VFD. It works fine, but the motor protection does not go down far enough. The lowest I can set max amps is 7 IIRC, that 1 hp motor runs 2-3 amps. I don't have any issue with it as the motor runs only when I am standing there watching it, but if it were for some application that ran when no one was a round there could be problems is something failed. They sell fuses for that issue. Wes |
#10
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Hardince HC Chucker -- someone needs help
Ignoramus8671 wrote: I visited an interesting guy today, to whom I sold some VFD drives, to set up one for him. Which was easy. (I am selling 3 HP drives for $100 a pop) What's the specs and controls on the drives, and will they fit in a Priority Mail box? It might be time for me to replace the rotary phase converter I use on my Bridgeport (1HP). Pete C. |
#11
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Hardince HC Chucker -- someone needs help
On 2008-05-18, Pete C. wrote:
Ignoramus8671 wrote: I visited an interesting guy today, to whom I sold some VFD drives, to set up one for him. Which was easy. (I am selling 3 HP drives for $100 a pop) What's the specs and controls on the drives, and will they fit in a Priority Mail box? It might be time for me to replace the rotary phase converter I use on my Bridgeport (1HP). Definitely the time. Rotary phase converters are so 1970s. They are rated 2.2 kW (3 HP). They run bridgeports just fine. http://igor.chudov.com/manuals/Toshi...ive-Manual.pdf They have electric brakes too. Will not fit into flat rate boxes. I also have 3.7 kW drives. Those are for bigger machines. -- Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by more readers you will need to find a different means of posting on Usenet. http://improve-usenet.org/ |
#12
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Hardince HC Chucker -- someone needs help
Ignoramus8671 wrote: On 2008-05-18, Pete C. wrote: Ignoramus8671 wrote: I visited an interesting guy today, to whom I sold some VFD drives, to set up one for him. Which was easy. (I am selling 3 HP drives for $100 a pop) What's the specs and controls on the drives, and will they fit in a Priority Mail box? It might be time for me to replace the rotary phase converter I use on my Bridgeport (1HP). Definitely the time. Rotary phase converters are so 1970s. Yea, but it works and it cost me abour $10 to build. They are rated 2.2 kW (3 HP). They run bridgeports just fine. http://igor.chudov.com/manuals/Toshi...ive-Manual.pdf They have electric brakes too. Will not fit into flat rate boxes. I also have 3.7 kW drives. Those are for bigger machines. Ok, how do I order two? Remove the .DOH. to email me. Pete C. |
#13
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Hardince HC Chucker -- someone needs help
mailed
On 2008-05-18, Pete C. wrote: Ignoramus8671 wrote: On 2008-05-18, Pete C. wrote: Ignoramus8671 wrote: I visited an interesting guy today, to whom I sold some VFD drives, to set up one for him. Which was easy. (I am selling 3 HP drives for $100 a pop) What's the specs and controls on the drives, and will they fit in a Priority Mail box? It might be time for me to replace the rotary phase converter I use on my Bridgeport (1HP). Definitely the time. Rotary phase converters are so 1970s. Yea, but it works and it cost me abour $10 to build. They are rated 2.2 kW (3 HP). They run bridgeports just fine. http://igor.chudov.com/manuals/Toshi...ive-Manual.pdf They have electric brakes too. Will not fit into flat rate boxes. I also have 3.7 kW drives. Those are for bigger machines. Ok, how do I order two? Remove the .DOH. to email me. Pete C. -- Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by more readers you will need to find a different means of posting on Usenet. http://improve-usenet.org/ |
#14
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Hardince HC Chucker -- someone needs help
Iggy, I know someone that may be interested in a VFD also,drop me a line
please. goo1959 AT hotmail.com |
#15
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Hardince HC Chucker -- someone needs help
The VFDs arrived a few minutes ago. I expect I'll have one hooked up within the hour Thanks, Pete C. |
#16
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Hardince HC Chucker -- someone needs help
Sounds to me the Hardinge is running. The pop is likely a re-settable temp
thermal breaker. An overload is present. I don't have one. Is there a back gear lock engaged ? spindle lock ? shipping that way ? I would hope a Hardige owner / user would step in . Martin Sheldon owner/user Martin H. Eastburn @ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net TSRA, Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal. NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member. http://lufkinced.com/ Ignoramus8671 wrote: I visited an interesting guy today, to whom I sold some VFD drives, to set up one for him. Which was easy. (I am selling 3 HP drives for $100 a pop) Then he showed me his Hardinge HC chucker. It did not work right. He never ran it because of it. He hooked it up to his phase converter and it ran, however the speed adjustment knobs never worked. After a few minutes of running some "click" was heard and it stopped and would not restart. Just to be clear, we never hooked up his hardinge to any VFDs, I told him not to do it due to a jumble of relays in the control box. Is there anyone here who knows how these HCs work? Why would it click and not restart? Why is the motor that actuates the threaded rod that drives the speed adjustment hinge, never runs? This is not for me, it is for him. He is a NRA member and an all around great guy. If he could spend a few minutes on the phone with someone he would be delighted. He can make gun parts for you. ----== Posted via Pronews.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.pronews.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 100,000 Newsgroups ---= - Total Privacy via Encryption =--- |
#17
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Hardince HC Chucker -- someone needs help
On 2008-05-18, Martin H. Eastburn wrote:
Sounds to me the Hardinge is running. The pop is likely a re-settable temp thermal breaker. An overload is present. I don't have one. We couldnot find one, and also why would it pop??? Is there a back gear lock engaged ? spindle lock ? shipping that way ? No. It spun just fine. And then, click -- and it stopped. I would hope a Hardige owner / user would step in . -- Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by more readers you will need to find a different means of posting on Usenet. http://improve-usenet.org/ |
#18
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Hardince HC Chucker -- someone needs help
Motors have end bell red buttons.
Some might be just internal. I had some that way. Might be a current sensing unit in a power I/O box. I have no idea what the control looks like - mine is a barrel switch and a motor with belts and gears. Many are electronic speed control in a lathe foot or cabinet. Thermal breaker has a push out button. It pops. I wasn't there so I can't say if a Klixon clicked or that was the back gear that was jammed and the friction drive was used with to much back force. [ Klixon is or was a Texas Instrument temperature switch of high quality - bi-metal plate that flexes and that might be the pop.] Rather hard to diagnose since I have not seen one or touched it. Can you say were the pop came from ? Any more input ? Martin Martin H. Eastburn @ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net TSRA, Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal. NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member. http://lufkinced.com/ Ignoramus8671 wrote: On 2008-05-18, Martin H. Eastburn wrote: Sounds to me the Hardinge is running. The pop is likely a re-settable temp thermal breaker. An overload is present. I don't have one. We couldnot find one, and also why would it pop??? Is there a back gear lock engaged ? spindle lock ? shipping that way ? No. It spun just fine. And then, click -- and it stopped. I would hope a Hardige owner / user would step in . ----== Posted via Pronews.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.pronews.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 100,000 Newsgroups ---= - Total Privacy via Encryption =--- |
#19
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Hardince HC Chucker -- someone needs help
Just thinking.
Was it shipped in with the "Half nut lever" engaged ? And the end stop or tail stock was run up against it ? or it on the Headstock? Is the Feed clutch in drive in/out and the cross slide is at and end ? e.g. is the front lead screw turning for some reason ? Not a basic function. The spindle might be dry and heats up. The pop might be a bushing expanding or the like. Didn't say that the machine stopped when it popped. More input is needed. Martin Martin H. Eastburn @ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net TSRA, Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal. NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member. http://lufkinced.com/ Martin H. Eastburn wrote: Motors have end bell red buttons. Some might be just internal. I had some that way. Might be a current sensing unit in a power I/O box. I have no idea what the control looks like - mine is a barrel switch and a motor with belts and gears. Many are electronic speed control in a lathe foot or cabinet. Thermal breaker has a push out button. It pops. I wasn't there so I can't say if a Klixon clicked or that was the back gear that was jammed and the friction drive was used with to much back force. [ Klixon is or was a Texas Instrument temperature switch of high quality - bi-metal plate that flexes and that might be the pop.] Rather hard to diagnose since I have not seen one or touched it. Can you say were the pop came from ? Any more input ? Martin Martin H. Eastburn @ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net TSRA, Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal. NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member. http://lufkinced.com/ Ignoramus8671 wrote: On 2008-05-18, Martin H. Eastburn wrote: Sounds to me the Hardinge is running. The pop is likely a re-settable temp thermal breaker. An overload is present. I don't have one. We couldnot find one, and also why would it pop??? Is there a back gear lock engaged ? spindle lock ? shipping that way ? No. It spun just fine. And then, click -- and it stopped. I would hope a Hardige owner / user would step in . ----== Posted via Pronews.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.pronews.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 100,000 Newsgroups ---= - Total Privacy via Encryption =--- ----== Posted via Pronews.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.pronews.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 100,000 Newsgroups ---= - Total Privacy via Encryption =--- |
#20
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Hardince HC Chucker -- someone needs help
Martin, do you know these Hardinges, as it seems? Can that guy talk to
you perhaps? He is a super guy, NRA and whatever. i On 2008-05-18, Martin H. Eastburn wrote: Just thinking. Was it shipped in with the "Half nut lever" engaged ? And the end stop or tail stock was run up against it ? or it on the Headstock? Is the Feed clutch in drive in/out and the cross slide is at and end ? e.g. is the front lead screw turning for some reason ? Not a basic function. The spindle might be dry and heats up. The pop might be a bushing expanding or the like. Didn't say that the machine stopped when it popped. More input is needed. Martin Martin H. Eastburn @ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net TSRA, Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal. NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member. http://lufkinced.com/ Martin H. Eastburn wrote: Motors have end bell red buttons. Some might be just internal. I had some that way. Might be a current sensing unit in a power I/O box. I have no idea what the control looks like - mine is a barrel switch and a motor with belts and gears. Many are electronic speed control in a lathe foot or cabinet. Thermal breaker has a push out button. It pops. I wasn't there so I can't say if a Klixon clicked or that was the back gear that was jammed and the friction drive was used with to much back force. [ Klixon is or was a Texas Instrument temperature switch of high quality - bi-metal plate that flexes and that might be the pop.] Rather hard to diagnose since I have not seen one or touched it. Can you say were the pop came from ? Any more input ? Martin Martin H. Eastburn @ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net TSRA, Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal. NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member. http://lufkinced.com/ Ignoramus8671 wrote: On 2008-05-18, Martin H. Eastburn wrote: Sounds to me the Hardinge is running. The pop is likely a re-settable temp thermal breaker. An overload is present. I don't have one. We couldnot find one, and also why would it pop??? Is there a back gear lock engaged ? spindle lock ? shipping that way ? No. It spun just fine. And then, click -- and it stopped. I would hope a Hardige owner / user would step in . News==---- http://www.pronews.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 100,000 Newsgroups http://www.pronews.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 100,000 Newsgroups -- Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by more readers you will need to find a different means of posting on Usenet. http://improve-usenet.org/ |
#21
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Hardince HC Chucker -- someone needs help
Ignoramus8671 wrote:
Then he showed me his Hardinge HC chucker. It did not work right. He never ran it because of it. He hooked it up to his phase converter and it ran, however the speed adjustment knobs never worked. After a few minutes of running some "click" was heard and it stopped and would not restart. There is probably a motor starter with a thermal overload. Most of those have to be manually reset. Usually there is a reset button on them. But, there must be a problem causing excessive motor current to cause that to trip. My first guess is to check that the motor is not wired for 440 V. If it was originally, then the thermal heaters in the motor control have to be changed for 240 V, as the current will double. Why is the motor that actuates the threaded rod that drives the speed adjustment hinge, never runs? Again, could be a voltage conversion problem, there ought to be taps on the control transformer. After checking that, there is most likely a phase shift cap and some relays to run the motor. Check that the relays are working, could be dirty contacts after long disuse, or a bad capacitor. Jon |
#22
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Hardince HC Chucker -- someone needs help
On 2008-05-18, Jon Elson wrote:
Ignoramus8671 wrote: Then he showed me his Hardinge HC chucker. It did not work right. He never ran it because of it. He hooked it up to his phase converter and it ran, however the speed adjustment knobs never worked. After a few minutes of running some "click" was heard and it stopped and would not restart. There is probably a motor starter with a thermal overload. Most of those have to be manually reset. Usually there is a reset button on them. But, there must be a problem causing excessive motor current to cause that to trip. My first guess is to check that the motor is not wired for 440 V. If it was originally, then the thermal heaters in the motor control have to be changed for 240 V, as the current will double. Yep. That was my suspicion too. I asked this question. The guy said that according to the seller, "the lathe was wired for 208v". In my experience, 440v motors just flat out do not run on 220, but the lathe ran OK. Why is the motor that actuates the threaded rod that drives the speed adjustment hinge, never runs? Again, could be a voltage conversion problem, there ought to be taps on the control transformer. After checking that, there is most likely a phase shift cap and some relays to run the motor. Check that the relays are working, could be dirty contacts after long disuse, or a bad capacitor. Could be. I was reluctant to work on it that much due to the lathe not being mine. I would not hesitate to buy it for very little and fix. But as it was not mine, I decided not to mess with it too much beyond just looking. -- Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by more readers you will need to find a different means of posting on Usenet. http://improve-usenet.org/ |
#23
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Hardince HC Chucker -- someone needs help
"Ignoramus24782" wrote in message ... On 2008-05-18, Jon Elson wrote: Ignoramus8671 wrote: snip - Yep. That was my suspicion too. I asked this question. The guy said that according to the seller, "the lathe was wired for 208v". In my experience, 440v motors just flat out do not run on 220, but the lathe ran OK. this sounds suspiciously like a Y versus Delta problem - that might be worth checking out ** Posted from http://www.teranews.com ** |
#24
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Hardince HC Chucker -- someone needs help
On Sun, 18 May 2008 20:10:13 -0500, Ignoramus24782 wrote:
On 2008-05-18, Jon Elson wrote: Ignoramus8671 wrote: Then he showed me his Hardinge HC chucker. It did not work right. He never ran it because of it. He hooked it up to his phase converter and it ran, however the speed adjustment knobs never worked. After a few minutes of running some "click" was heard and it stopped and would not restart. There is probably a motor starter with a thermal overload. Most of those have to be manually reset. Usually there is a reset button on them. But, there must be a problem causing excessive motor current to cause that to trip. My first guess is to check that the motor is not wired for 440 V. If it was originally, then the thermal heaters in the motor control have to be changed for 240 V, as the current will double. And you have to re-jumper the control transformer, main contactor coils and any other line-powered gear inside from 480V to 208/240V. And if that power is coming from a phase converter (either kind) all the control power has to be coming from the two "real" phases - the 'manufactured leg' can only be used for the motor load(s). Yep. That was my suspicion too. I asked this question. The guy said that according to the seller, "the lathe was wired for 208v". In my experience, 440v motors just flat out do not run on 220, but the lathe ran OK. They'll sit there and hum, and if you spin them up with a pull-rope they'll try turning for a few seconds and stop. DAMHIKT, of course - it even had me going "???" for about thirty seconds... "But it ran just fine at the used machinery brokers..." snapped me out of it. -- Bruce -- |
#25
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Hardince HC Chucker -- someone needs help
Ignoramus24782 wrote: On 2008-05-18, Jon Elson wrote: Ignoramus8671 wrote: Then he showed me his Hardinge HC chucker. It did not work right. He never ran it because of it. He hooked it up to his phase converter and it ran, however the speed adjustment knobs never worked. After a few minutes of running some "click" was heard and it stopped and would not restart. There is probably a motor starter with a thermal overload. Most of those have to be manually reset. Usually there is a reset button on them. But, there must be a problem causing excessive motor current to cause that to trip. My first guess is to check that the motor is not wired for 440 V. If it was originally, then the thermal heaters in the motor control have to be changed for 240 V, as the current will double. Yep. That was my suspicion too. I asked this question. The guy said that according to the seller, "the lathe was wired for 208v". In my experience, 440v motors just flat out do not run on 220, but the lathe ran OK. Yes, but the MOTOR may have been rewired for 220 without changing the heaters in the starter. Otherwise, it could be a problem with his phase converter. If it is far out of balance, it may be good enough to start the motor, but then there is a big circulating current between the converter and the lathe. Jon |
#26
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Hardince HC Chucker -- someone needs help
On 2008-05-19, Jon Elson wrote:
Ignoramus24782 wrote: On 2008-05-18, Jon Elson wrote: Ignoramus8671 wrote: Then he showed me his Hardinge HC chucker. It did not work right. He never ran it because of it. He hooked it up to his phase converter and it ran, however the speed adjustment knobs never worked. After a few minutes of running some "click" was heard and it stopped and would not restart. There is probably a motor starter with a thermal overload. Most of those have to be manually reset. Usually there is a reset button on them. But, there must be a problem causing excessive motor current to cause that to trip. My first guess is to check that the motor is not wired for 440 V. If it was originally, then the thermal heaters in the motor control have to be changed for 240 V, as the current will double. Yep. That was my suspicion too. I asked this question. The guy said that according to the seller, "the lathe was wired for 208v". In my experience, 440v motors just flat out do not run on 220, but the lathe ran OK. Yes, but the MOTOR may have been rewired for 220 without changing the heaters in the starter. This is a single voltage motor. 208 Otherwise, it could be a problem with his phase converter. If it is far out of balance, it may be good enough to start the motor, but then there is a big circulating current between the converter and the lathe. That could be. He had a lousy multimeter, I forgot to take mine, so it was hard to ascertain. -- Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by more readers you will need to find a different means of posting on Usenet. http://improve-usenet.org/ |
#27
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Hardince HC Chucker -- someone needs help
On Sun, 18 May 2008 17:30:03 -0500, Jon Elson
wrote: Ignoramus8671 wrote: Then he showed me his Hardinge HC chucker. It did not work right. He never ran it because of it. He hooked it up to his phase converter and it ran, however the speed adjustment knobs never worked. After a few minutes of running some "click" was heard and it stopped and would not restart. There is probably a motor starter with a thermal overload. Most of those have to be manually reset. Usually there is a reset button on them. But, there must be a problem causing excessive motor current to cause that to trip. My first guess is to check that the motor is not wired for 440 V. If it was originally, then the thermal heaters in the motor control have to be changed for 240 V, as the current will double. True enough. Big problem though..those motors are single voltage. My TFB is 440..requires a transformer. I do have a number of surplus 220 motors out of Hardinge lathes . Ive planned on doing the conversion for a while, so havent bothered to change out the motor. OH!..the feed motor MAY be single voltage as well. In which case..you are well and truely screwed...they are HARD to find except off of a carcass. If the feed motor is 440...install a 3hp 440 motor and VFD, power from a transformer. Btw..that is most often a DC motor that runs the feed...but at line value. Some were 220, even on the 440 but a small transformer took care of the power. I used to get $500 for a used motor for HCs/DV-59s, etc etc. Now you can buy the whole lathe for that price. Gunner Why is the motor that actuates the threaded rod that drives the speed adjustment hinge, never runs? Again, could be a voltage conversion problem, there ought to be taps on the control transformer. After checking that, there is most likely a phase shift cap and some relays to run the motor. Check that the relays are working, could be dirty contacts after long disuse, or a bad capacitor. Jon Political Correctness is a doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical liberal minority, and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end. |
#28
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Hardince HC Chucker -- someone needs help
On 2008-05-19, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sun, 18 May 2008 17:30:03 -0500, Jon Elson wrote: Ignoramus8671 wrote: Then he showed me his Hardinge HC chucker. It did not work right. He never ran it because of it. He hooked it up to his phase converter and it ran, however the speed adjustment knobs never worked. After a few minutes of running some "click" was heard and it stopped and would not restart. There is probably a motor starter with a thermal overload. Most of those have to be manually reset. Usually there is a reset button on them. But, there must be a problem causing excessive motor current to cause that to trip. My first guess is to check that the motor is not wired for 440 V. If it was originally, then the thermal heaters in the motor control have to be changed for 240 V, as the current will double. True enough. Big problem though..those motors are single voltage. being dual speed My TFB is 440..requires a transformer. I do have a number of surplus 220 motors out of Hardinge lathes . Ive planned on doing the conversion for a while, so havent bothered to change out the motor. OH!..the feed motor MAY be single voltage as well. In which case..you are well and truely screwed...they are HARD to find except off of a carcass. If the feed motor is 440...install a 3hp 440 motor and VFD, power from a transformer. Btw..that is most often a DC motor that runs the feed...but at line value. Some were 220, even on the 440 but a small transformer took care of the power. I used to get $500 for a used motor for HCs/DV-59s, etc etc. Now you can buy the whole lathe for that price. Any idea what a "threading attachment", with a bunch of threaded cams, for that chucker, would be worth? Tom gave me that one in trade for something. i Gunner Why is the motor that actuates the threaded rod that drives the speed adjustment hinge, never runs? Again, could be a voltage conversion problem, there ought to be taps on the control transformer. After checking that, there is most likely a phase shift cap and some relays to run the motor. Check that the relays are working, could be dirty contacts after long disuse, or a bad capacitor. Jon Political Correctness is a doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical liberal minority, and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end. -- Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by more readers you will need to find a different means of posting on Usenet. http://improve-usenet.org/ |
#29
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Hardince HC Chucker -- someone needs help
On Mon, 19 May 2008 01:15:41 -0500, Ignoramus24782
wrote: I used to get $500 for a used motor for HCs/DV-59s, etc etc. Now you can buy the whole lathe for that price. Any idea what a "threading attachment", with a bunch of threaded cams, for that chucker, would be worth? Tom gave me that one in trade for something. i Joe Gwinn IIRC is looking for one for his new HC. The threading attachment (and the back mounting plate) is worth about $300, the threading masters are worth about $35 each, depending on how many are on Ebay at the moment. Sometimes less, other times more. At the moment..about $300 for attachment and masters are about right. Next month...shrug They are gettting more and more common as companies are dumping/scrapping their HCs so the value is going down. I gave away a threading attachment about a year ago, and traded a couple dozen thread masters for an ancient Hobart gas powered welder off a Liberty ship, that Ive not brought home yet, but it was between friends Gunner Political Correctness is a doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical liberal minority, and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end. |
#30
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Hardince HC Chucker -- someone needs help
In article ,
Gunner Asch wrote: On Mon, 19 May 2008 01:15:41 -0500, Ignoramus24782 wrote: I used to get $500 for a used motor for HCs/DV-59s, etc etc. Now you can buy the whole lathe for that price. Any idea what a "threading attachment", with a bunch of threaded cams, for that chucker, would be worth? Tom gave me that one in trade for something. i Joe Gwinn IIRC is looking for one for his new HC. I wish it were true. But all I have is an old Clausing 5914. Someday I'll move up to a Hardinge, but I plan to get some experience on the Clausing first. So far, I have no managed to break anything. Joe Gwinn |
#31
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Hardince HC Chucker -- someone needs help
On Sat, 17 May 2008 12:52:52 -0500, Ignoramus8671
wrote: After a few minutes of running some "click" was heard and it stopped and would not restart. I have an older HC, mid 50's era. Something inside mine will pop now and again, and it won't run for a while. I don't have any schematics for it and don't know enough about electrical to try and track it down. I'm considering switching to a VFD soon as I figure out how to interlock switching from low to high speed windings so that I don't make this switch under power while running the VFD. Why is the motor that actuates the threaded rod that drives the speed adjustment hinge, never runs? Have found this a problem too. I think a limit switch is being overun now and then. I use a pair of pliers to back the screw off a bit. If it's not at the end of travel and won't work, it's something else. Again, a VFD will solve this problem.... Jon |
#32
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Hardince HC Chucker -- someone needs help
I have a Hardinge HC Chucker that I would sell. $2000 OBO. Some
tooling included. The machine is located in Central Illinois. Bob |
#33
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Hardince HC Chucker -- someone needs help
I have a Hardinge HC Chucker that I would sell. $2000 OBO. Some
tooling included. The machine is located in Central Illinois. Bob |
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