I'm considering a new drillpress and an engine lathe. I ran across Grizzly
Tools site, but I don't know anything about their products. I don't do
production work, just a home backyard workshop. What are your opinions of
Grizzly, both the company and their products?
TIA
Paul

"Paul in Redland" writes:
I'm considering a new drillpress and an engine lathe. I ran across Grizzly
Tools site, but I don't know anything about their products. I don't do
production work, just a home backyard workshop. What are your opinions of
Grizzly, both the company and their products?
TIA
Paul

They sell their own color of the standard Chinese manufactured
machinery. Quality is something of a crapshoot, if you get a good one
then you'll do fine. If you get a lemon, then you could be in for a
world of pain getting the bugs worked out, which in the extremity of
trouble could include re-crating the machine for return. Customer
service wise, Grizzly seems generally considered to be a more responsive
operation than Harbor Freight, though some say Harbor Freight isn't so
bad.

If you get one of these import machines- no matter from whom- expect to
do a good deal of cleaning (which may include getting sand out of the
headstocks and bearings), sometimes stuff like sludgy paint is left in
gearboxes, etc.. and be prepared for the possibility of things like bad
bearings, lumpy belts, failing motors and erratic paint jobs right out
of the box. These machines are sometimes termed "kits", rather than
finished equipment.

Which is not to say you are guaranteed to have problems, many people
don't- but the possibility is there. Grizzly et al don't assemble,
inspect and prep these machines when they come into the US (except for
perhaps sampling the product stream) so they don't know the state of
what they're shipping you. If there's any assembly done in the US, its
"assembling" the shipment of boxes that they send you.

There are more highly regarded importers of Chinese machines, but you'll
pay accordingly. Jet, Birmingham, Kent- for example, tend to bring in a
somewhat better class of machinery, but you'd probably have to find a
dealer rather than ordering thru a website.

Gregm

"Paul in Redland" wrote in message
...
I'm considering a new drillpress and an engine lathe. I ran across Grizzly
Tools site, but I don't know anything about their products. I don't do
production work, just a home backyard workshop. What are your opinions of
Grizzly, both the company and their products?

I've had good luck with them, they seem to stand behind their stuff pretty
well. Doesn't really matter which importer you buy from, the only
difference is the color of the paint. Some stand behind their products,
some don't.Grizzly seems to have a little more interest in making sure that
what they sell isn't crap, I've found a little better attention to how
things are setup before they ship, otherwise, same as anyone else.

Rich

Paul in Redland wrote:

I'm considering a new drillpress and an engine lathe. I ran across Grizzly
Tools site, but I don't know anything about their products. I don't do
production work, just a home backyard workshop. What are your opinions of
Grizzly, both the company and their products?
TIA
Paul




I was up in the Grizzly main store in Bellingham, WA about a week ago
looking at lathes and drill presses. As someone else said, in general
you should assume the machine needs to be "touched up" as it comes out
of the box rather than ready to go. It will probably work ok after a
simple cleaning but it would be far better to assume you need to put a
good 40 hours into most machines to make sure alignment is improved and
that potential crap like casting sand isn't in the works.

I did notice one thing about their larger lathes. The overall quality
of the castings appears to have become a little worse over the years.
There is a bit more flash on the castings and they seem a little
rougher than they used to be. I assume that the "works" you can't see
are also a bit more cheaply made.

On their larger lathes, they tend to offer a basic as well as a "Z"
series or something marked "toolroom" or similar. The floor models
appeared to be differrent enough and improved enough on these models to
make them worth the extra money if you can afford the difference. The
difference is probably a Tawianese factory instead of a Chinese factory
version.

Grizzly does tend to back up their stuff reasonably for a vendor of
Chinese import stuff and also tends (according to rumor) to have parts
available long after the other guys have moved on to other models. Jet
is rumored to back up their stuff fairly well also but seem to build a
wall between the buyer and company (called the vendor) that may make it
harder to resolve problems.

As long as you know you are buying cheap machines and you get what you
pay for, I would have no hesitation in buying from them.

Koz

Years ago I went up to the Grizzly showroom with a piece of ground rod and a mag
base with DTI in hand. I chucked the ground rod in their drill presses (one at a
time) clamped the mag base to the table, and checked runout by hand with the
dial test indicator. In no case was the runout less than 1/32", in other words
awful. The manager saw what I was doing and came out. At first he thought I was
trying something funny but then he realized I knew what I was talking about,
then he watched and once he got it, he took me in the back and we spent about an
hour with one of their employees uncrating new drill presses and testing
runouts. They were *all* over 1/32" runout. They were most apologetic but said
after all, their primary target was woodworkers.

I didn't relieve their anxiety by telling them the error was almost certainly in
the cheap-ass chucks they used. Needless to say I left there without buying a
DP. I would have popped the chucks out an directly indicated the spindle but
they wouldn't let me, said that was disassembling the machine. Snicker.

Nice paint, though.

Grizzly has safety reading glasses for a reasonable price of $10:
http://www.grizzly.com/products/H7195

Grizzly is said to stock spare parts and to have good customer service.

GWE

Koz wrote:



Paul in Redland wrote:

I'm considering a new drillpress and an engine lathe. I ran across
Grizzly Tools site, but I don't know anything about their products. I
don't do production work, just a home backyard workshop. What are your
opinions of Grizzly, both the company and their products?
TIA
Paul



I was up in the Grizzly main store in Bellingham, WA about a week ago
looking at lathes and drill presses. As someone else said, in general
you should assume the machine needs to be "touched up" as it comes out
of the box rather than ready to go. It will probably work ok after a
simple cleaning but it would be far better to assume you need to put a
good 40 hours into most machines to make sure alignment is improved and
that potential crap like casting sand isn't in the works.

I did notice one thing about their larger lathes. The overall quality
of the castings appears to have become a little worse over the years.
There is a bit more flash on the castings and they seem a little rougher
than they used to be. I assume that the "works" you can't see are also a
bit more cheaply made.

On their larger lathes, they tend to offer a basic as well as a "Z"
series or something marked "toolroom" or similar. The floor models
appeared to be differrent enough and improved enough on these models to
make them worth the extra money if you can afford the difference. The
difference is probably a Tawianese factory instead of a Chinese factory
version.

Grizzly does tend to back up their stuff reasonably for a vendor of
Chinese import stuff and also tends (according to rumor) to have parts
available long after the other guys have moved on to other models. Jet
is rumored to back up their stuff fairly well also but seem to build a
wall between the buyer and company (called the vendor) that may make it
harder to resolve problems.

As long as you know you are buying cheap machines and you get what you
pay for, I would have no hesitation in buying from them.

Koz

Grant Erwin writes:

I didn't relieve their anxiety by telling them the error was almost
certainly in the cheap-ass chucks they used. Needless to say I left
there without buying a DP. I would have popped the chucks out an
directly indicated the spindle but they wouldn't let me, said that was
disassembling the machine. Snicker.


Yeah, take the chuck out and it'd be a week until the assembly guy came
around to reinstall it.



Grizzly has safety reading glasses for a reasonable price of $10:
http://www.grizzly.com/products/H7195


Far as I'm concerned, eye protection is pretty much #1 in the budget-
not a big recurring cost in general. I'll cheap out on the paper
towels instead.

Greg

Grant Erwin wrote:
Grizzly has safety reading glasses for a reasonable price of $10:
http://www.grizzly.com/products/H7195

That is a good price. Enco had the same thing for $11.95 in their
current hot deals catalog. If you "need" enough other stuff (and who
doesn't?) to do the free freight thing it might be cheaper.

Someone here sent me to Phillips Safety. I bought a couple of pairs of
the ones pictured at bottom he

http://www.phillips-safety.com/ps/c-...y-glasses.aspx

More expensive than the Grizzlys but I like the size and style better.

Paul,

I would agree with what has been said...realize up front that you will
be investing time and money to have a working machine..any machine.

The route I have taken is to bide my time and buy older American iron
when I find it. While the older equipment may need cleanup and a part
or two, I have been very happy with my choice over the regular Asian
fare. I too have visitied a Grizzly tool showroom (and I strongly
suggest that you do also before investing your money) and was less than
impressed. The downside of buying used American is that you may have to
look at a number of wornout, rusty objects masquerading as tools before
you find the one that has your name on it.

One issue you may want to consider is resale value. I tend to buy for
the long view so I don't hesitate to buy quality. From what I have seen
at auctions, Asian tools like Grizzly bring almost nothing when resold.
The drill press you buy now is seldom the one you will have in five
years...most people upgrade their tools as finances permit. There is a
ready market for used American tools and you will easily recoup your
investment versus dragging last year's Hu Flung Dung special out to the
curb.

Good luck with your search and let us know what you do end buying.

TMT

Grant Erwin writes:

Grizzly has safety reading glasses for a reasonable price of $10:
http://www.grizzly.com/products/H7195

Far as I'm concerned, eye protection is pretty much #1 in the budget-
not a big recurring cost in general. I'll cheap out on the paper
towels instead.


There isn't anything low quality about these, I was working with a guy
today who was wearing them. I have always used safety glasses in my shop
but now that I'm over 50 I can see fine work a lot easier with some
magnification, so I started buying safety glasses which have an integral
reading glass lens in them. Very handy, don't know why all the chain
stores don't sell 'em. I'm not sure I understand your point about
"cheaping out", Greg, can you please elaborate?


Its not a particularly useful point, just that for me the price of eye
protection is not the deciding factor. If the $10 glasses work and
aren't junky, then I'm all for it. I'm a little suprised that Grizzly
would sell something nice inexpensively but perhaps they got a good deal
on them too....

Gregm

Too_Many_Tools wrote:

Paul,

I would agree with what has been said...realize up front that you will
be investing time and money to have a working machine..any machine.

The route I have taken is to bide my time and buy older American iron
when I find it. While the older equipment may need cleanup and a part
or two, I have been very happy with my choice over the regular Asian
fare. I too have visitied a Grizzly tool showroom (and I strongly
suggest that you do also before investing your money) and was less than
impressed. The downside of buying used American is that you may have to
look at a number of wornout, rusty objects masquerading as tools before
you find the one that has your name on it.

One issue you may want to consider is resale value. I tend to buy for
the long view so I don't hesitate to buy quality. From what I have seen
at auctions, Asian tools like Grizzly bring almost nothing when resold.
The drill press you buy now is seldom the one you will have in five
years...most people upgrade their tools as finances permit. There is a
ready market for used American tools and you will easily recoup your
investment versus dragging last year's Hu Flung Dung special out to the
curb.

Good luck with your search and let us know what you do end buying.

TMT



Resale value is a really good point. Chinastuff has little to
none...basically a little above scrap value unless you find a sucker or
friend who really wants your unit.

On the drill press, unless you are really green, buy more than I think
I need to begin with. Better to have some real iron there for that
future job that needs it than a frustrating bottom of the line model.
For big lathe stuff, you can always contract out that once every couple
of years job but I can think of no one who would enjoy contracting out
simple drilling because their drill press is the flimsy $ 150 floor model.

With regards to "old" iron....one problem is how incredibly cruddy a
mill or lathe can get over years of use. It's a miserable job to try
and scrape chips coolant from 1950 out of every crack and crevice. Some
just leave it and call it "battle scars" but I hate to start with a
machine that's new to me but still has someone elses mess in it.

So the question is...any cleaning secrets out there? I've heard many
speak of elbow grease and solvents but gads that takes forever and isn't
very satisfying. Steam cleaning sounds good but the idea of all that
water on a machine and the potential for rust gets a little scary.
E-bay has a ton of used machines that appear to be repainted. Are they
skimping on the prep and painting over crap (assuming a reputable
dealer) or is there a secret/better way to clean up a really cruddy machine?

Koz (who got about 2/3 of the way done with the elbow grease method and
said "screw it", leaving the rest of the crap)

"Too_Many_Tools" wrote in message
oups.com...
Paul,
From what I have seen
at auctions, Asian tools like Grizzly bring almost nothing when resold.

On ebay this might be true, but what I've seen is that the used asian
machines bring just about the same as used american iron, IF they're just
advertised with a fair price on them and the seller is up front about the
machine. Try to sell it for what it isn't and there aren't many buyers
stupid enough to swallow your line. I've picked up old US made drill
presses from the scrapyard for little to nothing, but have yet to see one of
the asian machines come in.

On the flip side, I've got an older Shopsmith in beautiful condition that
I've got $200 in, and it looks like I'm going to sit on that until I die,
$200 is what I have to get for it, and I'm not coming down. If it doesn't
find a new home by the end of summer, one piece at a time it'll go to the
scrapyard.

Rich

Koz wrote:

Too_Many_Tools wrote:
One issue you may want to consider is resale value. I tend to buy for
the long view so I don't hesitate to buy quality. From what I have seen
at auctions, Asian tools like Grizzly bring almost nothing when resold.
The drill press you buy now is seldom the one you will have in five
years...most people upgrade their tools as finances permit. There is a
ready market for used American tools and you will easily recoup your
investment versus dragging last year's Hu Flung Dung special out to the
curb.

Koz wrote:
Resale value is a really good point. Chinastuff has little to
none...basically a little above scrap value unless you find a sucker or
friend who really wants your unit.

That may be true for drill presses, but judging by the prices on ebay,
import tools don't seem to depreciate any more than US-made ones do. In
fact, Chinese minilathes and mill-drills seem to bring most of new price
for a used machine with minimal tooling.
I own some of both, most bought used in the last 5 years. I can
recover my initial investment on any of them, probably make money on
every one. This is in Texas. Might be different up in the Rust Belt
where you guys are awash in used machine tools.

On the drill press, unless you are really green, buy more than I think
I need to begin with. Better to have some real iron there for that
future job that needs it than a frustrating bottom of the line model.

here I'd agree. I have a nice, almost-new Ridgid DP like the home stores
sell. I'd swap it in a minute for an old, heavy US-made DP. The one I
have is fine for wood, but marginal at best for metal.

For big lathe stuff, you can always contract out that once every couple
of years job but I can think of no one who would enjoy contracting out
simple drilling because their drill press is the flimsy $ 150 floor model.

With regards to "old" iron....one problem is how incredibly cruddy a
mill or lathe can get over years of use. It's a miserable job to try
and scrape chips coolant from 1950 out of every crack and crevice. Some
just leave it and call it "battle scars" but I hate to start with a
machine that's new to me but still has someone elses mess in it.
So the question is...any cleaning secrets out there? I've heard many
speak of elbow grease and solvents but gads that takes forever and isn't
very satisfying. Steam cleaning sounds good but the idea of all that
water on a machine and the potential for rust gets a little scary. E-bay
has a ton of used machines that appear to be repainted. Are they
skimping on the prep and painting over crap (assuming a reputable
dealer) or is there a secret/better way to clean up a really cruddy
machine?

Call me weird (my wife would agree) but I enjoy that stuff. I like to
find an old neglected lathe and spend the next several weeks finding the
tight, shiny machine beneath all that rust and grease.
My primary tools:

Homemade parts cleaner from a 55-gallon drum and kerosene, submersion pump.
EvapoRust rust remover. That stuff is amazing. For me it works better
than electrolytic and is much easier.
Carb cleaner dip for alloy parts.
ATF - cleans and lubricates
fine-grit 3M Scotchbrite - used sparingly.
Wire wheel on a 8" bench grinder.

The biggest lathe I've done is a 10x36 Atlas or a 10x24 Enco. The latter
is arguably "bigger" as it outweighed the Atlas 2 to 1.
I have several boxes of cleaned, dried Atlas 618 parts waiting at home
for paint and reassembly. That's what I'll be doing after work this week.

For a bigger lathe, I'd consider steam cleaning, followed immediately by
liberal application of WD40 in every nook and cranny, followed by an
oil or ATF spray. The WD40 will chase the water out, get plenty of it
in gallon or the hi-volume aero container. Then I'd partially
disassemble the lathe as soon as I got it home, same day for sure, to
make sure all the water was gone, and spray additional oil as needed.
Let it sit a few days and the oil/ATF will soften the grease and
varnish. Of course, you will have to remove the oil from parts that need
to be de-rusted, but you will often find that what appeared to be rust
is really hardened oil that has turned brown.

Rex

Koz writes:

Too_Many_Tools wrote:


With regards to "old" iron....one problem is how incredibly cruddy a
mill or lathe can get over years of use. It's a miserable job to try
and scrape chips coolant from 1950 out of every crack and crevice. Some
just leave it and call it "battle scars" but I hate to start with a
machine that's new to me but still has someone elses mess in it. So the
question is...any cleaning secrets out there? I've heard many speak of
elbow grease and solvents but gads that takes forever and isn't very
satisfying. Steam cleaning sounds good but the idea of all that water
on a machine and the potential for rust gets a little scary. E-bay has a
ton of used machines that appear to be repainted. Are they skimping on
the prep and painting over crap (assuming a reputable dealer) or is
there a secret/better way to clean up a really cruddy machine?

Koz (who got about 2/3 of the way done with the elbow grease method and
said "screw it", leaving the rest of the crap)

Diesel fuel works well and is lots easier on everything than raw
gasoline- which is handy for really nasty stuff though. Cleanup after
the cleanup is kind of problematic though. I like the spray on
Citristrip- kind of slow on the grease and sludge but it takes off paint
pretty well.

I did a 10" South Bend with electrolysis and a 12" American with the
Citristrip & diesel method- found the latter to be less messy and
annoying, though I got plenty tired of the smell after a while.

But don't neglect a plain old scotchbright pad, dish detergent and hot
water for things other than ways, bearings, etc.. if you get the rinse
water really hot and get the part dry quickly its a handy way to clean
up smaller stuff- particularly after the paint is stripped.

Greg

Stuff like a Shopsmith goes quickly on www.craigslist.com Actually, it
goes aggrevatingly fast. If you don't get a call or e-mail to the seller
within the first hour or two, you are usually too late for anything of
value.

greybeard wrote:
"Too_Many_Tools" wrote in message
oups.com...

Paul,
From what I have seen
at auctions, Asian tools like Grizzly bring almost nothing when resold.


On ebay this might be true, but what I've seen is that the used asian
machines bring just about the same as used american iron, IF they're just
advertised with a fair price on them and the seller is up front about the
machine. Try to sell it for what it isn't and there aren't many buyers
stupid enough to swallow your line. I've picked up old US made drill
presses from the scrapyard for little to nothing, but have yet to see one of
the asian machines come in.

On the flip side, I've got an older Shopsmith in beautiful condition that
I've got $200 in, and it looks like I'm going to sit on that until I die,
$200 is what I have to get for it, and I'm not coming down. If it doesn't
find a new home by the end of summer, one piece at a time it'll go to the
scrapyard.

Rich

RoyJ wrote:
Stuff like a Shopsmith goes quickly on www.craigslist.com Actually, it
goes aggrevatingly fast. If you don't get a call or e-mail to the seller
within the first hour or two, you are usually too late for anything of
value.

Now Roy exactly what are you basing this on? In my area old Shopsmiths sit
around on craigslist for a long long time, in fact back when I was collecting
10ER parts I used to let them "cure" for about 3 weeks and then go talk to the
then-discouraged sellers and offer them $60. It worked 5 out of 5 times, then I
got real tired of trying to sell the stuff and basically had a giveaway sale
myself, keeping only one *really* fully tooled machine.

GWE

greybeard wrote:

"Too_Many_Tools" wrote in message
oups.com...

Paul,
From what I have seen
at auctions, Asian tools like Grizzly bring almost nothing when resold.



On ebay this might be true, but what I've seen is that the used asian
machines bring just about the same as used american iron, IF they're
just advertised with a fair price on them and the seller is up front
about the machine. Try to sell it for what it isn't and there aren't
many buyers stupid enough to swallow your line. I've picked up old US
made drill presses from the scrapyard for little to nothing, but have
yet to see one of the asian machines come in.

On the flip side, I've got an older Shopsmith in beautiful condition
that I've got $200 in, and it looks like I'm going to sit on that
until I die, $200 is what I have to get for it, and I'm not coming
down. If it doesn't find a new home by the end of summer, one piece
at a time it'll go to the scrapyard.

Rich

"RoyJ" wrote in message
ink.net...
Stuff like a Shopsmith goes quickly on www.craigslist.com Actually, it
goes aggrevatingly fast. If you don't get a call or e-mail to the seller
within the first hour or two, you are usually too late for anything of
value.

I've had to sit on a lot of things before, one big hangup being shipping, it
will usually run twice what the machine costs. Won't be the first I've
scrapped one part at a time, probably won't be the last.

Rich

greybeard wrote:
"RoyJ" wrote in message
ink.net...

Stuff like a Shopsmith goes quickly on www.craigslist.com Actually, it
goes aggrevatingly fast. If you don't get a call or e-mail to the seller
within the first hour or two, you are usually too late for anything of
value.


I've had to sit on a lot of things before, one big hangup being shipping, it
will usually run twice what the machine costs. Won't be the first I've
scrapped one part at a time, probably won't be the last.

Rich



Figure what you need to get out of it, part it out on ebay piece by piece until
you net out your total, and scrap the rest. Works great.

GWE

"Grant Erwin" wrote in message
...
greybeard wrote:
"RoyJ" wrote in message

Figure what you need to get out of it, part it out on ebay piece by piece
until you net out your total, and scrap the rest. Works great.

Too many horror stories, most of them true, about ebay for me to even think
about it. It will go to a local buyer or the scrap, I druther have my money
back, but it won't break me. Don't have any need for it, HF had most of
their top end stuff on sale last summer, I've had fun making it work like it
should, but that was before the Shopsmith came up.

Rich.

I just got my enco 12x36 machine last friday have been working to get
it up and running ever since it looks in great shape other than I
wanted to re-wire for 110 and the Taiwanese dont like to explain how to
do that very thoroughly, luckily my cusin is an electrical engineer so
he figured it out after I sent him some pictures of the wireing
schematics etc.

However the Taiwanese don't like deburring eather it seems, since my
nuts that run my crossfeed look like a badger was chewing on the
threads, and it runs across like crud if you can even call that running
across. It's getting better but I havent deburred them completly yet I
thought the 1 nut was good and clean so I only cleaned the one that
looked bad however after running it across again there was a couple
chips from burs that came out again so im going to take the second off
and clean it today. Hopefully everything else works fine going to
pickup some oil today and oil it up so I can start her up and make sure
everything else is alright.

Oh and if you are looking at the cheep lathes grizzlie/enco etc. Make
sure you know what your buying for instance right now the grizzlie gear
head lathes have half the gears/speeds the enco lathes have. Otherwise
there basically the same other than I think the grizzlies may have came
with a quick change toolpost and the enco didn't but thats a cheep fix.

"redice" wrote in message
oups.com...

However the Taiwanese don't like deburring eather it seems,

Nope. Running over every machined corner with a stone will make it feel a
lot better, and it doesn't take that long either. Check the gibs in the
cross slide and compound, they're usually sharp where they meet the bottom
of the dovetail, digging in makes it impossible to get a good feel, let
alone a good adjustment. couple of swipes with a file to get rid of the
sharp corners will improve it a lot. Carriage gibs are usually ok, although
in the 7 X 12 Homier, I had to grind them, they looked like the end of a
rollercoaster ride when I took them out. Hard they are, flat they weren't.

Rich.

I know on the HF 12x36 model the double speed is achieved by using 2
different sized pulley sets between the motor and the head. On the Enco is
it really double the gear combinations or is it double the pulleys like the
HF models?

Robert

"redice" wrote in message
oups.com...
I just got my enco 12x36 machine ...

Oh and if you are looking at the cheep lathes grizzlie/enco etc. Make
sure you know what your buying for instance right now the grizzlie gear
head lathes have half the gears/speeds the enco lathes have...

Grant Erwin wrote:

RoyJ wrote:
Stuff like a Shopsmith goes quickly on www.craigslist.com Actually, it
goes aggrevatingly fast. If you don't get a call or e-mail to the seller
within the first hour or two, you are usually too late for anything of
value.

Now Roy exactly what are you basing this on? In my area old Shopsmiths sit
around on craigslist for a long long time, in fact back when I was collecting
10ER parts I used to let them "cure" for about 3 weeks and then go talk to the
then-discouraged sellers and offer them $60. It worked 5 out of 5 times, then I
got real tired of trying to sell the stuff and basically had a giveaway sale
myself, keeping only one *really* fully tooled machine.


Well I don't know about craigs list, but I've seen a lot of shopsmith
stuff get snapped up on ebay.
jk

Ya its changing the belt over to the other side of the pullies, however
thats one thing I did end up doing as it came the lowest speed was 90
with the change its 50 something. I would find out if the grizzlie had
those pullies or not before buying them because it is nice to have the
choice of speeds like that. Oh and I don't know what the slot for my
toolpost is but I now know its not AXA or BXA I ended up taking the BXA
base and milling it down to fit which is nice since I was able to make
it a bit tighter than what the one that came with it was. But still
annoying by the standpoint that it doesnt seem to be a standard slot.
And if I didn't have acess to a mill it would have been real fun/costly
to get a quickchange toolpost onto my lathe.

Another thing the dials use allen wrenches to loosen/tighen Im planning
to make thumscrews to replace those since I tend to use my dials quite
substantialy when cutting anything precision.