I have a Brand new 13X40 lathe sitting on a pallet right in front of it's stand.

It weighs about 1300 lbs.

My first thought was to rent an engine hoise, but most hoists I've seen are rated to 1/2 Ton..
The Garage roof is a flat 2x12 roof, so it's not strong enough to do the lifting,
thought I might be able to attach 4 2x6's to the roof structure, where the 2x6
would provide vertical support for the weight and the roof joists keep it from tipping over.

I don't really have the space to use a fork lift, but that would be ideal if I did.

Any suggestions?

I can always make a stack of 4x4 and cinder blocks and slowly jack it up...


Paul

wrote:

Any suggestions?

Let is sit right on the pallet and send it to:
Nick Mueller
Poehlammstr. 10
80687 Muenchen
GERMANY

If not, lift it with a crow bar, put some wood blocks under it, remove
the pallet, lift again and remove the blocks and then move it with the
crow bar to the place you want.
Use brain 1.0 before it falls onto bionic peripherals connected to
brain.

HTH,
Nick
--
Motor Modelle // Engine Models
http://www.motor-manufaktur.de
DIY-DRO - YADRO - Eigenbau-Digitalanzeige

wrote:
I have a Brand new 13X40 lathe sitting on a pallet right in front of it's stand.

It weighs about 1300 lbs.

My first thought was to rent an engine hoise, but most hoists I've seen are rated to 1/2 Ton..
The Garage roof is a flat 2x12 roof, so it's not strong enough to do the lifting,
thought I might be able to attach 4 2x6's to the roof structure, where the 2x6
would provide vertical support for the weight and the roof joists keep it from tipping over.

I don't really have the space to use a fork lift, but that would be ideal if I did.

Any suggestions?

I can always make a stack of 4x4 and cinder blocks and slowly jack it up...


Paul





I once hoisted a very light car[sans engine, about same weight as your
lathe] from a 2x8 roof by laying a 2x4 across[above] the roof and
screwing an eye bolt from below, thru and with a fender washer and nut
on 2x4. 2x4 running at right angle to roof rafters to spread the load.

Mine was 10 ft span, 2x8s on 24 inch centers IIRC, and the snow load is
higher than the weight you are considering.

wrote:
I have a Brand new 13X40 lathe sitting on a pallet right in front of it's stand.

It weighs about 1300 lbs.

My first thought was to rent an engine hoise, but most hoists I've seen are rated to 1/2 Ton..
The Garage roof is a flat 2x12 roof, so it's not strong enough to do the lifting,
thought I might be able to attach 4 2x6's to the roof structure, where the 2x6
would provide vertical support for the weight and the roof joists keep it from tipping over.

I don't really have the space to use a fork lift, but that would be ideal if I did.

Any suggestions?

I can always make a stack of 4x4 and cinder blocks and slowly jack it up...

I would suggest you do both - You need some overhead lift to guide it
onto the stand, and the blocks will give you some solid way-points
enroute. Get one of the $50 chain hoists from HF and rig it over the
pallet, centered about 1 foot from the headstock. While you are at it,
you will need a second hoist point over the stand.
Hook on with a strap around the bed. Also attach a chain, loosely,
around the bed as a backup to the strap. lift slightly. Adjust balance
with carriage and tailstock. Build up blocks and 2x12s (OK, 4x4s) under
the lathe as you go up until you are just above the stand.
Now move the hoist over the stand. this is the tricky part. You are
simultaneously lifting and dragging laterally, and this is most
unstable. Ideally you move the headstock end, letting the bed pivot with
the tailstock feet staying on the blocks. Once the headstock weight is
onto the stand, stick a long bolt through one of the mounting holes in
bed and stand, start a nut onto it. Now, leave the hoist attached but
slack enough to allow some lateral movement while still supporting the
weight. Remove the tailstock, and move the carriage fully toward the
headstock. Pick up the right side of the bed, preferrably with help, and
move it onto the stand. If it's too heavy to do by hand, you may need a
2nd hoist. A come-along would probably be adequate.
Do not remove the chain hoist until you are certain the stand is
stable, and the lathe is securely bolted down. One it's all bolted up,
lift the whole assembly, then lower it into place, to be sure you have
all the twist/preload out of the stand.

Alternative: Mount the stand on a caster base made of 2x2 square tubing
and angle iron. Drag it all outside, hire a forklift to set the lathe on
stand, then roll it inside.

Alternative 2: If you are handy with a welder, a steel gantry on a
wheeled base would be a handy thing.

wrote:
I have a Brand new 13X40 lathe sitting on a pallet right in front of it's
stand.

It weighs about 1300 lbs.

My first thought was to rent an engine hoise, but most hoists I've seen
are rated to 1/2 Ton..

I moved my F.E. Reed 14x40 from floor to stand with an engine hoist. This
particular one had a "1/2 ton" pip in the arm, but it also had holes down to
4 tons. I shortened the arm, then lifted the lathe in four 8" lifts,
placing concrete blocks and boards under it after each lift.

After it was up to stand height, I gently PRIED the carriage forward until
the lathe was centered over the stand, and gently cracked the bleed screw.
I pried it forward, rather than trying to push/roll the hoist, because "PIO"
(pilot-induced oscillations) are a real danger when pushing a chain-held
heavy load with steel casters over a not-perfect concrete floor.

BTW... the Reed lathe is a lump of iron, and came in at almost 1700lb...
scary, but do-able so long as feet and bodies are always clear of the lift
zone.

LLoyd

On Wed, 21 Dec 2005 09:52:02 -0800, wrote:

I have a Brand new 13X40 lathe sitting on a pallet right in front of it's stand.

It weighs about 1300 lbs.

My first thought was to rent an engine hoise, but most hoists I've seen are rated to 1/2 Ton..

If at all possible, find a qualified rigger to supervise this job.
Seriously, it's not yer average DIY kind of job.

2 ton hoists are pretty common. That rating depends on how far you
extend th' boom however. I unloaded my 12 x 36, also new in th' crate
and approx 1,200 lbs, from a trailer with a 2 ton auto hoist in it's
middle extension hole, which rates at about 2,000 lbs. No problem at
all.

I haven't yet put it up on th' stand, but will do so with th' same
hoist and a professional rigger.

The Garage roof is a flat 2x12 roof, so it's not strong enough to do the lifting,
thought I might be able to attach 4 2x6's to the roof structure, where the 2x6
would provide vertical support for the weight and the roof joists keep it from tipping over.

Don't even try that.

I don't really have the space to use a fork lift, but that would be ideal if I did.

Any suggestions?

I can always make a stack of 4x4 and cinder blocks and slowly jack it up...

Don't do that either Paul.

Snarl

wrote in message
...
I can always make a stack of 4x4 and cinder blocks and slowly jack it
up...

Don't do that either Paul.

Well, certainly don't set it on a single pile of blocks at each end, no.
But putting four stacks of blocks with wide wood beams across each end
renders a strong and stable jacking base.

LLoyd

On Wed, 21 Dec 2005 19:33:45 GMT, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
wrote:


wrote:
I have a Brand new 13X40 lathe sitting on a pallet right in front of it's
stand.

It weighs about 1300 lbs.

My first thought was to rent an engine hoise, but most hoists I've seen
are rated to 1/2 Ton..

I moved my F.E. Reed 14x40 from floor to stand with an engine hoist. This
particular one had a "1/2 ton" pip in the arm, but it also had holes down to
4 tons. I shortened the arm, then lifted the lathe in four 8" lifts,
placing concrete blocks and boards under it after each lift.

After it was up to stand height, I gently PRIED the carriage forward until
the lathe was centered over the stand, and gently cracked the bleed screw.
I pried it forward, rather than trying to push/roll the hoist, because "PIO"
(pilot-induced oscillations) are a real danger when pushing a chain-held
heavy load with steel casters over a not-perfect concrete floor.

BTW... the Reed lathe is a lump of iron, and came in at almost 1700lb...
scary, but do-able so long as feet and bodies are always clear of the lift
zone.

LLoyd

Like Lloyd said. Gently pry the engine hoist forward so that it moves
real slowly. Don't be in a hurry. When you first start the lift, when
the lathe is about 1/2 inch high, make sure that everything is stable.
Make sure the back wheels of the hoist aren't getting light. Push on
the lathe and make sure it can't shift when suspended. Be sure that
the lathe can't be damaged by using straps if you can to lift it. Make
sure the straps won't be cut by any sharp edges. Above all, make sure
that if anything goes wrong you or your helpers will not be in a
position to get hurt. For example, if you need to put your hand under
the suspended lathe, slide some blocks under first so that if the
lathe falls it will land on the blocks, not your hand. Be sure to tell
any onlookers, or your helpers, if you use any, to not try to save a
falling machine. All they will do is slow it up a little as it crushes
them.
ERS

wrote:

I have a Brand new 13X40 lathe sitting on a pallet right in front of it's stand.

It weighs about 1300 lbs.

My first thought was to rent an engine hoise, but most hoists I've seen are rated to 1/2 Ton..
The Garage roof is a flat 2x12 roof, so it's not strong enough to do the lifting,
thought I might be able to attach 4 2x6's to the roof structure, where the 2x6
would provide vertical support for the weight and the roof joists keep it from tipping over.


I got one of those engine cranes on eBay, but they sell them at all the
hardware outlets. It will do 2.5 tons on the shortest setting of the
arm, and
1/2 ton on the longest reach. So, it will do 1500 Lbs on the next to the
longest setting, which should be plenty high to set the lathe on the stand.

I don't really have the space to use a fork lift, but that would be ideal if I did.

Any suggestions?

I can always make a stack of 4x4 and cinder blocks and slowly jack it up...


Oohh, very dangerous. I've lifted a 375 Lb surface plate about a foot
off the ground
this way, but then I get scared.

Jon

Mine was 10 ft span, 2x8s on 24 inch centers IIRC, and the snow load is
higher than the weight you are considering.

Not in San Diego it isn't ;-)

From what I've seen of So Cal construction, 6 inches of snow would level 90% of the residences.


Paul

1300 lbs is way too heavy for you to lift. Consider what would happen
to you if it fell on you. Out of the deepest concern to you and your
family, I offer to come an take away this very dangerous item so as to
not allow you to tempt fate. Of course, I will need some helo loading
it into my truck so I will bring a six pack of beer to offer to your
friends if they come and help.

Actually, the safest way to lift this with a minimum of help is to do
as you thought and jack it up using 4x4 lumber laid 2 front to back and
2 side to side on each end of the lathe. this is how professionals
move large items, even whole houses. jack it up 2 inches on one side,
slide in a 2x4 for safety, jack it up of the other side, do the same,
do this again so that you can now slide in a pair of 4x4 and so on.
This way you are never at risk of something this heavy falling over.
when you get to the height of the table, slide 2 longer 4x4 all the way
to the back of the table (on each side) and then move the lathe over
the table using some lengths of steel pipe.

the key is to always keep it under control so that if something breaks,
it can only fall straight down onto a firm support and then only the
shortest distance possible. using the root may work but you have no
way of knowing its support limits.

wrote:
I have a Brand new 13X40 lathe sitting on a pallet right in front of it's stand.

It weighs about 1300 lbs.

My first thought was to rent an engine hoise, but most hoists I've seen are rated to 1/2 Ton..
The Garage roof is a flat 2x12 roof, so it's not strong enough to do the lifting,
thought I might be able to attach 4 2x6's to the roof structure, where the 2x6
would provide vertical support for the weight and the roof joists keep it from tipping over.

I don't really have the space to use a fork lift, but that would be ideal if I did.

Any suggestions?

I can always make a stack of 4x4 and cinder blocks and slowly jack it up...


Paul

On 21 Dec 2005 13:57:56 -0800, drpcfix wrote:
1300 lbs is way too heavy for you to lift. Consider what would happen
to you if it fell on you. Out of the deepest concern to you and your
family, I offer to come an take away this very dangerous item so as to
not allow you to tempt fate. Of course, I will need some helo loading
it into my truck so I will bring a six pack of beer to offer to your
friends if they come and help.

You are the model of a concerned citizen. Later, you might let him
whitewash the fence, if he's good enough, right?

All of the suggestions given have been good ones. The one not given, and I
strongly recommend AGAINST it, is to have friends help. I mean, help lift.
Do this by yourself, inch by inch, as suggested, even if it takes hours.
The slower you do it the more methodical, respectful and careful you become.
This is in contrast to "I'll buy the beer, I think four of us can lift it".
KEEP PEOPLE AWAY!!!!

Ivan Vegvary (lifted many things, even two story houses, fractional inch at
a time.

David Billington wrote:
It is rather a good idea to have someone handy to keep an eye on you so
that if it does go wrong they can call 911 (999 UK) or whatever the
local emergy code is, just in case.

Or if you live in the rural South, someone to hold your beer while you
"try somthin'"

Ivan Vegvary wrote:

All of the suggestions given have been good ones. The one not given,
and I strongly recommend AGAINST it, is to have friends help. I mean,
help lift.
Do this by yourself, inch by inch, as suggested, even if it takes
hours. The slower you do it the more methodical, respectful and
careful you become. This is in contrast to "I'll buy the beer, I think
four of us can lift it". KEEP PEOPLE AWAY!!!!

Ivan Vegvary (lifted many things, even two story houses, fractional
inch at a time.

It is rather a good idea to have someone handy to keep an eye on you so
that if it does go wrong they can call 911 (999 UK) or whatever the
local emergy code is, just in case.

Ivan Vegvary wrote:

All of the suggestions given have been good ones. The one not given, and I
strongly recommend AGAINST it, is to have friends help. I mean, help lift.
Do this by yourself, inch by inch, as suggested, even if it takes hours.
The slower you do it the more methodical, respectful and careful you become.
This is in contrast to "I'll buy the beer, I think four of us can lift it".
KEEP PEOPLE AWAY!!!!

Ivan Vegvary (lifted many things, even two story houses, fractional inch at
a time.

Paul:

I used a Harbor Freight engine crane to get mine out of my van and set up. I
did it from a wheelchair with no help. I do have a few suggestions.

1) remove handles on the quick change box and as many others that you can.
It will save you from considerable damage if the lathe turns in the sling
and has to be set down on its side. Have 4 by 4 blocks handy.

2) My manual specified a single lifting point on the bed, just aft of the
headstock. Don't believe that for a minute! The CG is well above the bed.
Mine is a bench lathe so the motor is in back, not underneath, moving the CG
a considerable distance off to one side. It will flip over in an instant if
lifted by just a single sling. I ended up picking it up from the specified
place. I also had a sling down near the tailstock. To keep it from flipping,
I tied the forward sling in place with a rope going through the headstock.

3) Spend the bucks on the right slings. I went to a friend to buy some
webbing to do it and he insisted that I take his sling instead. The problem
is that his sling was a spanset rated about 8 tons. That's all well and
good, but it filled up the hook on my lift, allowing no room for the sling
tied near the tailstock. I ended up buying several 1 inch single layer
slings from Enco. They are not expensive and will do the job. They are worth
every dime you pay for them.

good luck

John

wrote in message
...
I have a Brand new 13X40 lathe sitting on a pallet right in front of it's
stand.

It weighs about 1300 lbs.

My first thought was to rent an engine hoise, but most hoists I've seen
are rated to 1/2 Ton..
The Garage roof is a flat 2x12 roof, so it's not strong enough to do the
lifting,
thought I might be able to attach 4 2x6's to the roof structure, where the
2x6
would provide vertical support for the weight and the roof joists keep it
from tipping over.

I don't really have the space to use a fork lift, but that would be ideal
if I did.

Any suggestions?

I can always make a stack of 4x4 and cinder blocks and slowly jack it
up...


Paul

Rex B wrote:

David Billington wrote:

It is rather a good idea to have someone handy to keep an eye on you
so that if it does go wrong they can call 911 (999 UK) or whatever
the local emergy code is, just in case.


Or if you live in the rural South, someone to hold your beer while you
"try somthin'"

I like it, you wouldn't want your beer spilt, especially if its a good
brew .



Ivan Vegvary wrote:

All of the suggestions given have been good ones. The one not
given, and I strongly recommend AGAINST it, is to have friends
help. I mean, help lift.
Do this by yourself, inch by inch, as suggested, even if it takes
hours. The slower you do it the more methodical, respectful and
careful you become. This is in contrast to "I'll buy the beer, I
think four of us can lift it". KEEP PEOPLE AWAY!!!!

Ivan Vegvary (lifted many things, even two story houses, fractional
inch at a time.

According to John D. Farr :
Paul:

I used a Harbor Freight engine crane to get mine out of my van and set up. I
did it from a wheelchair with no help. I do have a few suggestions.

1) remove handles on the quick change box and as many others that you can.
It will save you from considerable damage if the lathe turns in the sling
and has to be set down on its side. Have 4 by 4 blocks handy.

2) My manual specified a single lifting point on the bed, just aft of the
headstock. Don't believe that for a minute! The CG is well above the bed.

IIRC, we had a posting several years back of a special device
custom made for the purpose of lifting such a lathe. It was a set of
plates -- the top to fit the ways, and the bottom to clamp under the
ways, joined by some allthread and nuts above and below. The allthread
terminated in an eye up well *above* the center of gravity, making the lathe
far less likely to suddenly turn turtle.

It (and the carriage) were slid back and forth until a good
balance point was established, and everything locked down firmly --
including the tailstock.

I *think* that posting was by Fitch, but I'm not sure any more.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

wrote in message
...
| I have a Brand new 13X40 lathe sitting on a pallet right in front of it's
stand.
|
| It weighs about 1300 lbs.
|
| My first thought was to rent an engine hoise, but most hoists I've seen
are rated to 1/2 Ton..

If you only pick up one end at a time, you're going to be plenty safe,
but any hoist will pick up 1300 pounds, providing you're got the boom in the
right spot. The most critical tool is your brain, use it carefully.

| The Garage roof is a flat 2x12 roof, so it's not strong enough to do the
lifting,
| thought I might be able to attach 4 2x6's to the roof structure, where
the 2x6
| would provide vertical support for the weight and the roof joists keep it
from tipping over.

Not worth messing up the roof over, that's for sure!

| I can always make a stack of 4x4 and cinder blocks and slowly jack it
up...

NEVER use cinder blocks for stuff like this. Evenly loaded, as in a
building wall, these are fine, but you aren't going to be doing that. You
can visit the free wood box of your local fencing dealer and gets lots and
lots of 4x4 chunks in assorted lengths. I use them all the time for all
sorts of stuff around the house, and since they're free, I don't mind
ruining them with oil or what not, and since they're fence posts, weather is
no problem with them, so I toss 'em in a pile outside for safekeeping. If
you don't understand cribbing, stop by your local fire house and they'll
hopefully have the time to explain how to do it safely. No kidding, fireman
are great at that kind of stuff. Anyway, all timbers must be supported on
the broad side (no standing on end) on at least two points, with the higher
up you get the more surface area you need at the bottom.
A quick web search on cribbing:
http://www.res-q-jack.com/infocribbing.htm

On Wed, 21 Dec 2005 19:51:26 GMT, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
wrote:


wrote in message
.. .
I can always make a stack of 4x4 and cinder blocks and slowly jack it
up...

Don't do that either Paul.

Well, certainly don't set it on a single pile of blocks at each end, no.
But putting four stacks of blocks with wide wood beams across each end
renders a strong and stable jacking base.

If I were to use cribbing in that manner, it'd all be suitably sized
and appropriately placed wood. Then again, working in a drydock (Lake
Union drydock, Seattle, WA) convinced me of th' merits of same.
Cinder blocks would be th' weak link in that chain, IMHO.

It'd be much safer and easier to rent a sissors style lift[1], rated
for th' lathe x 2, and raise it to stand level *then* place it with an
engine hoist in th' exact manner you cited earlier, slow, slow, slow.
That way th' lathe only needs to be a fraction of an inch above either
th' stand or sissor lift or both, during final placement.

[1] Unless you already own one. I've got a Southworth industrial
electric over hydraulic, sissors table lift, rated at 2 tons. I use
it regularly as a motorcycle lift.

Snarl

On Thu, 22 Dec 2005 03:37:25 +0000, (DoN.
Nichols) wrote:

According to John D. Farr :
Paul:

I used a Harbor Freight engine crane to get mine out of my van and set up. I
did it from a wheelchair with no help. I do have a few suggestions.

1) remove handles on the quick change box and as many others that you can.
It will save you from considerable damage if the lathe turns in the sling
and has to be set down on its side. Have 4 by 4 blocks handy.

2) My manual specified a single lifting point on the bed, just aft of the
headstock. Don't believe that for a minute! The CG is well above the bed.

IIRC, we had a posting several years back of a special device
custom made for the purpose of lifting such a lathe. It was a set of
plates -- the top to fit the ways, and the bottom to clamp under the
ways, joined by some allthread and nuts above and below. The allthread
terminated in an eye up well *above* the center of gravity, making the lathe
far less likely to suddenly turn turtle.

It (and the carriage) were slid back and forth until a good
balance point was established, and everything locked down firmly --
including the tailstock.

I *think* that posting was by Fitch, but I'm not sure any more.

Interesting. First thought that comes to mind is wondering what, if
any, damage might occur to th' ways by supporting that much weight.
Do you think it might tweak th' level any?

Hey Gunner (or anyone else for that matter), have any comments about
this?

Snarl

Don't believe that for a minute! The CG is well above the bed.

IIRC, we had a posting several years back of a special device
custom made for the purpose of lifting such a lathe. It was a set of
plates -- the top to fit the ways, and the bottom to clamp under the
ways, joined by some allthread and nuts above and below. The allthread
terminated in an eye up well *above* the center of gravity, making the lathe
far less likely to suddenly turn turtle.

It (and the carriage) were slid back and forth until a good
balance point was established, and everything locked down firmly --
including the tailstock.

I *think* that posting was by Fitch, but I'm not sure any more.


Interesting. First thought that comes to mind is wondering what, if
any, damage might occur to th' ways by supporting that much weight.
Do you think it might tweak th' level any?

Hey Gunner (or anyone else for that matter), have any comments about
this?

Snarl


a plate and big eye bolt are how they are usually lifted, per factory
and riggers I have seen

writes:

Any suggestions?

Put an eyebolt in the chuck, then a sling through that and under the bed.
Lift with hoist; they can handle 1300 lbs.

I used the steel plate that is the underside of the Steady rest.
I bolted this to the ways adjusted it back and forth for a balance
point....... and used a rented engine hoist to do the actual liftiing.

The hoist did not have enough throw to go from pallet to stand in one
lift, so I picked it up about a foot, the supported it on stacked 4x4
lumber while I reset the chain.

I also used a backup chain and shackel around the ways to
catch it if the plate or bolt from the steady rest failed.

All done, now to wire it up and play with it!


Paul

I just moved my new (well, new to me) 12x36 into place. The lathe came
attached to a welded-up stand made from 3/16 steel. The "all up"
weight is something over 600-ish lbs.

I used an engine hoist and some 3/32 stainless aircraft cable without
problem; all 10 fingers and all 10 toes are still intact.

The engine hoist was rented ($30/day); the capacity was given as 1200
lbs. and it was absolutely "loafing" for this job. My estimate is that
it would do at least twice or three times what I asked it to do. Years
ago, I used to own an engine hoist which was rated for 1.5 ton, or
about 3000 lbs. That hoist was about the same construction as the
rented hoist.

(There are always 1.5 ton engine hoists on ebay at about $130 - $150
plus shipping = about $200; about the same deal from Northern Supply or
equivalent.)

I would think that if you look around, you should not have a terrible
problem with 1300 lbs and a suitable engine hoist. The biggest
headaches a

1) The length of the hoist's "feet" getting in the way of placing the
lathe (you need to move it "on the diagonal" if the lathe will be
placed near a wall).

2) The fact that the lathe is hoisted via cable or chain means that it
will swing like a pendulum as you try to move it. And that !@#$%#
thing is HEAVY. That means LOTS OF MOMENTUM. Hence, slow, deliberate
movements -- and keeping control of the pendulum, er, ah, uh, the
lathe, are necessary.


wrote:
I have a Brand new 13X40 lathe sitting on a pallet right in front of it's stand.

It weighs about 1300 lbs.

My first thought was to rent an engine hoise, but most hoists I've seen are rated to 1/2 Ton..
The Garage roof is a flat 2x12 roof, so it's not strong enough to do the lifting,
thought I might be able to attach 4 2x6's to the roof structure, where the 2x6
would provide vertical support for the weight and the roof joists keep it from tipping over.

I don't really have the space to use a fork lift, but that would be ideal if I did.

Any suggestions?

I can always make a stack of 4x4 and cinder blocks and slowly jack it up...


Paul