I have an GE GSD500P-45AW dishwasher that stopped working in the middle
of the wash cycle. It made a loud beep (more of honk) and then stopped.
Then, a few seconds later, it sounded like it was trying to restart
itself, would turn on a half a second, honk and stop again. I turned
the knob back to the beginning of the cycle to see if that would help,
but I get the same situation - tries to start, honks and stops.

I don't know if this means I need a new motor and pump like he
http://www.repairclinic.com/0081.asp?RccPartID=820985
but I don't know if its worth the cost of parts and installation
(dishwasher is from the 80's). No recalls on this model as far as I found.

Any ideas of what it would the problem might be and the cost to repair?

"Alan Greenspam" wrote in message
news:UBsWd.47360$s16.43090@trndny02...
I have an GE GSD500P-45AW dishwasher that stopped working in the middle
of the wash cycle. It made a loud beep (more of honk) and then stopped.
Then, a few seconds later, it sounded like it was trying to restart
itself, would turn on a half a second, honk and stop again. I turned
the knob back to the beginning of the cycle to see if that would help,
but I get the same situation - tries to start, honks and stops.

I don't know if this means I need a new motor and pump like he
http://www.repairclinic.com/0081.asp?RccPartID=820985
but I don't know if its worth the cost of parts and installation
(dishwasher is from the 80's). No recalls on this model as far as I
found.

Any ideas of what it would the problem might be and the cost to repair?

From what I have seen ,the cost of the parts and especially if you have to
pay to have them installed it is usually not worth it to have things
repaired if they are very old. The repair people are making a big markup on
the parts plus the labor to install them. I do not blame the repair people
as to make a service call plus stock the parts costs them a bunch. They
have to charge a lot just to stay in business.

Hmmm. Well, if it's beep, honk, clang, whowwee chigga chigga, that could be
a different sypmtom than beep honk honk, scrape, grid, winga winga chiga.

I'm sorry, we can't make a diagnosis until we are more certain of the
symptoms your unit has been presenting.

--

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com


"Alan Greenspam" wrote in message
news:UBsWd.47360$s16.43090@trndny02...
I have an GE GSD500P-45AW dishwasher that stopped working in the middle
of the wash cycle. It made a loud beep (more of honk) and then stopped.
Then, a few seconds later, it sounded like it was trying to restart
itself, would turn on a half a second, honk and stop again. I turned
the knob back to the beginning of the cycle to see if that would help,
but I get the same situation - tries to start, honks and stops.

I don't know if this means I need a new motor and pump like he
http://www.repairclinic.com/0081.asp?RccPartID=820985
but I don't know if its worth the cost of parts and installation
(dishwasher is from the 80's). No recalls on this model as far as I found.

Any ideas of what it would the problem might be and the cost to repair?

Stormin Mormon wrote:
Hmmm. Well, if it's beep, honk, clang, whowwee chigga chigga, that could be
a different sypmtom than beep honk honk, scrape, grid, winga winga chiga.

I'm sorry, we can't make a diagnosis until we are more certain of the
symptoms your unit has been presenting.


Well its more like the sound of a motor unsucessfully trying to start -
its a very low hum that lasts about a second and then stops. The sound
is accompanied by the sound of water starting to flow out.

The rinse cycle is slightly different as the rinse cycle starts for a
second before you hear the same low hum.

Alan Greenspam wrote:

I have an GE GSD500P-45AW dishwasher that stopped working in the middle
of the wash cycle. It made a loud beep (more of honk) and then stopped.
Then, a few seconds later, it sounded like it was trying to restart
itself, would turn on a half a second, honk and stop again. I turned
the knob back to the beginning of the cycle to see if that would help,
but I get the same situation - tries to start, honks and stops.

I don't know if this means I need a new motor and pump like he
http://www.repairclinic.com/0081.asp?RccPartID=820985
but I don't know if its worth the cost of parts and installation
(dishwasher is from the 80's). No recalls on this model as far as I found.

Any ideas of what it would the problem might be and the cost to repair?

Check the obvious. Assure there is not a spoon or something stuck in the
impeller at the bottom of the washer.
Steve
41N
--
"THAT IS WHERE THE COUNTRY IS HEADED - IT IS HEADED TOWARD
OVERSIMPLICICATION...
WHAT'S WRONG IS THAT EVERYONE IS SO SURE THEY'RE RIGHT! THATS PRETTY
SCARY - THE
FUTURE, I THINK, IS PRETTY SCARY."
-Owen Meany

I admit, I've never worked on a dish washer. But, it sounds likely that you
may have a bad motor run capacitor. Or somethign mechanically blocking
whatever it is that moves. Yes, on this one, I'm clueless.

If memory serves, I think I've seen a book or two available for dishwasher
repair.

--

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com


"Alan Greenspam" wrote in message
news:ezvWd.43456$ya6.9415@trndny01...


Well its more like the sound of a motor unsucessfully trying to start -
its a very low hum that lasts about a second and then stops. The sound
is accompanied by the sound of water starting to flow out.

The rinse cycle is slightly different as the rinse cycle starts for a
second before you hear the same low hum.

Well I have checked the spray arm and found no silverware stuck
anywhere. Not sure what the impeller is though.

I found the following parts breakdown for the washing machine but
nothing listed as an impeller

http://www.partselect.com/ModelFrame...hwasher&Mark=2

Any chance you can tell me what it is on the diagram you are referring to?

Thanks
Steve IA wrote:
Alan Greenspam wrote:

I have an GE GSD500P-45AW dishwasher that stopped working in the middle
of the wash cycle. It made a loud beep (more of honk) and then stopped.
Then, a few seconds later, it sounded like it was trying to restart
itself, would turn on a half a second, honk and stop again. I turned
the knob back to the beginning of the cycle to see if that would help,
but I get the same situation - tries to start, honks and stops.

I don't know if this means I need a new motor and pump like he
http://www.repairclinic.com/0081.asp?RccPartID=820985
but I don't know if its worth the cost of parts and installation
(dishwasher is from the 80's). No recalls on this model as far as I found.

Any ideas of what it would the problem might be and the cost to repair?


Check the obvious. Assure there is not a spoon or something stuck in the
impeller at the bottom of the washer.
Steve
41N

"Alan Greenspam" wrote in message
news:5fJWd.44878$f%5.10203@trndny03...
Well I have checked the spray arm and found no silverware stuck
anywhere. Not sure what the impeller is though.

I found the following parts breakdown for the washing machine but
nothing listed as an impeller

The impeller is the part of the pump that goes round and round to pump the
water. Sort of think of it as the fan blades. There may be a pump to put
the water in the washer and another to pump the water out.
Something could have lodged in the pump that pumps the water out.

Alan Greenspam wrote:
I have an GE GSD500P-45AW dishwasher that stopped working in the
middle
of the wash cycle. It made a loud beep (more of honk) and then
stopped.
Then, a few seconds later, it sounded like it was trying to restart

itself, would turn on a half a second, honk and stop again. I turned

the knob back to the beginning of the cycle to see if that would
help,
but I get the same situation - tries to start, honks and stops.

I don't know if this means I need a new motor and pump like he
http://www.repairclinic.com/0081.asp?RccPartID=820985
but I don't know if its worth the cost of parts and installation
(dishwasher is from the 80's). No recalls on this model as far as I
found.

Any ideas of what it would the problem might be and the cost to
repair?

Hi,

made a loud beep (more of honk) and then stopped.
Then, a few seconds later, it sounded like it was trying to restart
itself, would turn on a half a second, honk and stop again.

Possible the cooling fan blade has broken on the old motor and pump
assembly, something may be inside ( that is not suppose to be inside )
making the noise.

but I don't know if its worth the cost of parts and installation
(dishwasher is from the 80's). No recalls on this model as far as I
found.

If everything else looks good, it is worth the repair...that part is a
bit cheaper here...
http://www.pcappliancerepair.com/cgi...13&bra nd=GEH

jeff.
Appliance Repair Aid
http://www.applianceaid.com/

My first thought would be that something is blocking the impeller.
There should be a screen in the sump (plastic bottom) of the machine
interior. Water drains through this and goes to the pump. Sometimes
small items can work their way past this screen and obstruct the
impeller. The screen is plastic and bits of it can break over time,
making some of the small openings larger.

An impeller is the turbine-shaped part of the pump that moves the
water. Examine the plastic screen and look for damage which can
allow objects to get past it. On some models, you may need a mirror
to examine the portions of the screen facing away from you. Or
remove the plastic screen and investigate for small items which
may have slipped through. Sometimes long thin items can get past
a screen which shows little or no damage.

FYI - this can also happen with a cloths washing machine. Sometimes
if you have large loads and you use extremely high water levels for
washing, then objects can get to the water pump. This is somewhat
common if there is something in the laundry which floats (such as bits
of wood or mulch). Then the item can splash over the top of the tub
and get into the water heading to the pump. An impeller moving at
full speed can easily grind up most of the objects which will thwart
it when the motor is attempting to start.

On a washing machine, the pump is easy to access. Take the pump
apart, remove the obstruction, put it back together and you are good
for another 7 years or 70,000 miles. The impeller on my dish-
washer is easy to access, but I'm not certain about all models.

Good luck,
Gideon

I checked the two fan blades - the three holes on either blade (where
the water must come out) have nothing lodged there.

Thanks Jeff for the link to the lower priced part - anyway for me to
narrow down if its the cooling blade?

My conclusion on whether to repair is leaning in the opposite direction.
This is a dishwasher that is nearly 20 years old, and the part
requires a handyman installation (I've yet to find one in neighborhood).
I'm afraid if I do replace the pump/motor approx. $200-250 and it
breaks again (given its age, a possibility), I would have been better
off buying a new one.

I'm considering
Whirlpool 24-Inch Built-In Dishwasher (Color: White on White) ENERGY STAR®
Item #: 75888
Model: DU1050XTP

Approx with installation cost is $540
Ralph Mowery wrote:
"Alan Greenspam" wrote in message
news:5fJWd.44878$f%5.10203@trndny03...

Well I have checked the spray arm and found no silverware stuck
anywhere. Not sure what the impeller is though.

I found the following parts breakdown for the washing machine but
nothing listed as an impeller


The impeller is the part of the pump that goes round and round to pump the
water. Sort of think of it as the fan blades. There may be a pump to put
the water in the washer and another to pump the water out.
Something could have lodged in the pump that pumps the water out.

I checked the screen and do not see anything stuck in there. The screen
is in tact (no visible damage). I don't know if I should remove the
screen anyway to check -- could food particles clog it enough to keep
the motor from kick starting?


Gideon wrote:
My first thought would be that something is blocking the impeller.
There should be a screen in the sump (plastic bottom) of the machine
interior. Water drains through this and goes to the pump. Sometimes
small items can work their way past this screen and obstruct the
impeller. The screen is plastic and bits of it can break over time,
making some of the small openings larger.

An impeller is the turbine-shaped part of the pump that moves the
water. Examine the plastic screen and look for damage which can
allow objects to get past it. On some models, you may need a mirror
to examine the portions of the screen facing away from you. Or
remove the plastic screen and investigate for small items which
may have slipped through. Sometimes long thin items can get past
a screen which shows little or no damage.

FYI - this can also happen with a cloths washing machine. Sometimes
if you have large loads and you use extremely high water levels for
washing, then objects can get to the water pump. This is somewhat
common if there is something in the laundry which floats (such as bits
of wood or mulch). Then the item can splash over the top of the tub
and get into the water heading to the pump. An impeller moving at
full speed can easily grind up most of the objects which will thwart
it when the motor is attempting to start.

On a washing machine, the pump is easy to access. Take the pump
apart, remove the obstruction, put it back together and you are good
for another 7 years or 70,000 miles. The impeller on my dish-
washer is easy to access, but I'm not certain about all models.

Good luck,
Gideon

Alan Greenspam wrote:
I checked the two fan blades - the three holes on either blade (where

the water must come out) have nothing lodged there.

Thanks Jeff for the link to the lower priced part - anyway for me to

narrow down if its the cooling blade?

My conclusion on whether to repair is leaning in the opposite
direction.
This is a dishwasher that is nearly 20 years old, and the part
requires a handyman installation (I've yet to find one in
neighborhood).
I'm afraid if I do replace the pump/motor approx. $200-250 and it
breaks again (given its age, a possibility), I would have been better

off buying a new one.

I'm considering
Whirlpool 24-Inch Built-In Dishwasher (Color: White on White)
ENERGY STAR=AE
Item #: 75888
Model: DU1050XTP

Approx with installation cost is $540
Ralph Mowery wrote:
"Alan Greenspam" wrote in message
news:5fJWd.44878$f%5.10203@trndny03...


Hi,

anyway for me to
narrow down if its the cooling blade?

http://tinyurl.com/53wt6
Spin the fan blade by hand as sometimes it breaks free from the motor
shaft and can make a terrible/odd noise.

If the blade is ok and nothing jamming up the motor and mpump assembly
from running properly ( see sump inlet behind the lower spray arm
)=2E..if the motor is receving 110-120 volts AC but not running or just
hummmmming =3D new motor and pump assembly time.

jeff.
Appliance Repair Aid
http://www.applianceaid.com/

Appliance Repair Aid wrote:
Alan Greenspam wrote:

I checked the two fan blades - the three holes on either blade (where


the water must come out) have nothing lodged there.

Thanks Jeff for the link to the lower priced part - anyway for me to


narrow down if its the cooling blade?

My conclusion on whether to repair is leaning in the opposite

direction.

This is a dishwasher that is nearly 20 years old, and the part
requires a handyman installation (I've yet to find one in

neighborhood).

I'm afraid if I do replace the pump/motor approx. $200-250 and it
breaks again (given its age, a possibility), I would have been better


off buying a new one.

I'm considering
Whirlpool 24-Inch Built-In Dishwasher (Color: White on White)

ENERGY STAR®

Item #: 75888
Model: DU1050XTP

Approx with installation cost is $540
Ralph Mowery wrote:

"Alan Greenspam" wrote in message
news:5fJWd.44878$f%5.10203@trndny03...



Hi,


anyway for me to
narrow down if its the cooling blade?


http://tinyurl.com/53wt6
Spin the fan blade by hand as sometimes it breaks free from the motor
shaft and can make a terrible/odd noise.

If the blade is ok and nothing jamming up the motor and mpump assembly
from running properly ( see sump inlet behind the lower spray arm
)...if the motor is receving 110-120 volts AC but not running or just
hummmmming = new motor and pump assembly time.

jeff.
Appliance Repair Aid
http://www.applianceaid.com/


Jeff, if you are still there... I removed the sump entrance screen and
removed some gookus. Tried the dishwasher again and same result. Honk
with the sound of water and stop - pauses for about 5 second and then
tries again with the same result (until I turn the dial back to off).

Any chance this is worth replacing the drain solenoid or the back flush
valve before giving up on this machine?

I don't think itll be worth a new motor and pump assembly because of the
machine age/ installation labor. (also because I may be able to replace
the first two but trust myself less on installing a new motor and pump
assembly)

Any chance the loud honk or buzz I hear after the turning the dishwasher
on is the solenoid plunger activating and then failing?

I'm not sure when the solenoid plunger activates normally so I'm wildly
guessing and I do have this problem throughout all cycles..

Alan Greenspam wrote:
Appliance Repair Aid wrote:

Alan Greenspam wrote:

I checked the two fan blades - the three holes on either blade (where



the water must come out) have nothing lodged there.

Thanks Jeff for the link to the lower priced part - anyway for me to



narrow down if its the cooling blade?

My conclusion on whether to repair is leaning in the opposite


direction.

This is a dishwasher that is nearly 20 years old, and the part
requires a handyman installation (I've yet to find one in


neighborhood).

I'm afraid if I do replace the pump/motor approx. $200-250 and it
breaks again (given its age, a possibility), I would have been better



off buying a new one.

I'm considering
Whirlpool 24-Inch Built-In Dishwasher (Color: White on White)


ENERGY STAR®

Item #: 75888
Model: DU1050XTP

Approx with installation cost is $540
Ralph Mowery wrote:

"Alan Greenspam" wrote in message
news:5fJWd.44878$f%5.10203@trndny03...



Hi,


anyway for me to
narrow down if its the cooling blade?



http://tinyurl.com/53wt6
Spin the fan blade by hand as sometimes it breaks free from the motor
shaft and can make a terrible/odd noise.

If the blade is ok and nothing jamming up the motor and mpump assembly
from running properly ( see sump inlet behind the lower spray arm
)...if the motor is receving 110-120 volts AC but not running or just
hummmmming = new motor and pump assembly time.

jeff.
Appliance Repair Aid
http://www.applianceaid.com/


Jeff, if you are still there... I removed the sump entrance screen and
removed some gookus. Tried the dishwasher again and same result. Honk
with the sound of water and stop - pauses for about 5 second and then
tries again with the same result (until I turn the dial back to off).

Any chance this is worth replacing the drain solenoid or the back flush
valve before giving up on this machine?

I don't think itll be worth a new motor and pump assembly because of the
machine age/ installation labor. (also because I may be able to replace
the first two but trust myself less on installing a new motor and pump
assembly)

I'd take a look a good look at Maytag. I've been looking at
dishwashers a bit and one feature they have that I like is the
adjustable upper rack. It amazes me that only Maytag seems to have
gotten this right. There are several brands that allow you two
positions for the upper rack, so you can lower it when you want to use
it for larger items. However, if you look at how you adjust them, it
seems only Maytag has it right on their newer models. They have just
two easy handles/releases on either side of the tray so you can just
grab it and lower/raise it. All the other ones I've seen were kludges,
like with 4 releases. Now, who has four hands? Especially if the rack
is half full when you decide to raise/lower it, you have to somehow try
to support the rack, fiddle with 4 releases, etc. Amazing that
companies have been building these things for half a century and can't
figure out simple stuff like this.

wrote in message
oups.com...
However, if you look at how you adjust them, it
seems only Maytag has it right on their newer models. They have just
two easy handles/releases on either side of the tray so you can just
grab it and lower/raise it. All the other ones I've seen were kludges,
like with 4 releases.
(most of meaningless rant snipped)

Is that better than the KA with only one needed per side?
Maytag is a good brand, but not the only one with a good rack system.

The Maytag models I'm talking about only have one release per side,
though that wasn't clear from the way I worded it. And I can't say if
it was better than the KA's way of doing it with two releases, because
I didn't see any KA's that were built that way in any of the stores I
visited. I did check the KA site, and from a quick look, it appears
the adjustable upper rack feature is in their units that list at $920
and up, which may be why I didn't see them. Maytag offers this feature
in units that list at $580.

My main point is that doing this with two easy and convenient releases
is so obvious, that the manufacturers that offer an unjustable upper
rack with four releases or two half assed ones must be pretty stupid,
as it's an easy thing to desing and do right.

wrote in message


My main point is that doing this with two easy and convenient releases
is so obvious, that the manufacturers that offer an unjustable upper
rack with four releases or two half assed ones must be pretty stupid,
as it's an easy thing to desing and do right.


I agree with your point, but like all generalizations, there is always an
exception. You pointed all ONLY Maytag. Others exist.

As for having two per side, that is not really a bit problem because you
just adjust one side at a time. Most times we adjust one side only and
leave the other where it is. No need to have four hands in any case.

"I agree with your point, but like all generalizations, there is
always an
exception. You pointed all ONLY Maytag. Others exist. "

I never said ONLY Maytag had done it right with two easy handles to
move the upper rack, only that from the searching I have done it seemed
that way because I hadn't seen it anywhere else. And if you look at
the price points most people are likely to buy, eg store prices of $600
or less, I think it still is likely true.

"As for having two per side, that is not really a bit problem because
you
just adjust one side at a time. Most times we adjust one side only and

leave the other where it is. No need to have four hands in any case. "


How is it possible to to only adjust one side and leave the upper rack
lopsided? The models I've seen that have an adjustable upper rack
also had 3 spray arms, as most of the better units do, with one of
those being on the bottom of the upper rack. To move the upper rack,
it has to be all the way up or down, so that the pipe connection for
the arm connects into the appropriate one of two receptacles in the
back of the dishwasher. Does your model only have two arms?

As for how big of a problem it is, that's something we'll have to
disagree on. Having seen i done the right way, and valuing the
abitlity to easily move the rack, I wouldn't even consider the models
with the half assed 4 releases. It's just stupid, poor, design and
IMO, inexcusable.

wrote in message

How is it possible to to only adjust one side and leave the upper rack
lopsided? The models I've seen that have an adjustable upper rack
also had 3 spray arms, as most of the better units do, with one of
those being on the bottom of the upper rack. To move the upper rack,
it has to be all the way up or down, so that the pipe connection for
the arm connects into the appropriate one of two receptacles in the
back of the dishwasher. Does your model only have two arms?

Two arms and a spray at the top. Having to lift both sides detracts from
the versatility. Sometimes the bottom rack has a taller than usual item,
sometimes the top rack does so you lower that side. I guess I'm spoiled but
I do have the higher priced models and that is one reason they cost more,
they are more verstile. This is my second KA in 24 years and both had that
ability.


As for how big of a problem it is, that's something we'll have to
disagree on. Having seen i done the right way, and valuing the
abitlity to easily move the rack, I wouldn't even consider the models
with the half assed 4 releases. It's just stupid, poor, design and
IMO, inexcusable.

I guess it is cheaper. I don't know, I never looked at how they were made.
Of course, one handle is better than two, but there is no reason to have
both sides on the same plane. Check yours further and it may work that way.

" I guess it is cheaper. I don't know, I never looked at how they were
made.
Of course, one handle is better than two, but there is no reason to
have
both sides on the same plane. Check yours further and it may work that
way. "

The reason they have to have both sides even is because they have 3
spray arms. The 3rd one is on the bottom of the upper tray and it has
a water supply pipe that fits into a receptacle in the back of the
dishwasher. There are two mating holes in the back, when the rack
slides in, it plugs the pipe for the spray arm into either the upper or
the lower second hole depending on whether it's in the full up or down
position. If it's half and half, it's not going to mate up with either
hole. If you don't have 3 arms, then that problem doesn't exist.

Another idea, the permanent half and half kind of solution, seemed to
be in a lot of one manufacturer's line, think it was whirlpool. They
didn't have an adjustable upper rack, just a permanent one that was a
lot deeper on one side than the other.

wrote in message

The reason they have to have both sides even is because they have 3
spray arms. The 3rd one is on the bottom of the upper tray and it has
a water supply pipe that fits into a receptacle in the back of the
dishwasher. If you don't have 3 arms, then that problem doesn't
exist.

The KA has an arm under the rack. They maage to do it.

Alan Greenspam wrote:
Any chance the loud honk or buzz I hear after the turning the
dishwasher
on is the solenoid plunger activating and then failing?

Probably not...the drain solenoid is for drainign and not the washign
mode.


I'm not sure when the solenoid plunger activates normally so I'm
wildly
guessing and I do have this problem throughout all cycles..

The solenoid and plunger engage whe nthe d/w wants to drain out.

Jeff, if you are still there... I removed the sump entrance screen
and
removed some gookus. Tried the dishwasher again and same result.
Honk
with the sound of water and stop - pauses for about 5 second and then

tries again with the same result (until I turn the dial back to off).

Any chance this is worth replacing the drain solenoid or the back
flush
valve before giving up on this machine?

Probably neither will help

I don't think itll be worth a new motor and pump assembly because of
the
machine age/ installation labor. (also because I may be able to
replace
the first two but trust myself less on installing a new motor and
pump
assembly)

Replacing the pump assembly is fairly easy and it comes with some
directions But if the d/w is not worth spending $105.00 it is time
ot go shopping.

http://tinyurl.com/6r5vz
Motor and pump assy ( comes with new drain solenoid as well )

jeff.
Appliance Repair Aid
http://www.applianceaid.com/