Hi All,

Help!

refrigerator freezer:
Whirlpool GR2SHKXKQ
21.6 cu ft
Purchased ~ 12/2010

Stinker won't cool below 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Both
sections.

It started out stinking like a burnt tire. Then frost all
over the freezer items.

So I replaced the 4387244 Condenser Fan Motor, which indeed
was leaking oil and not spinning too freely.

Now I have lots of air going in the bottom front left
(my left, its right) and going out the bottom front
right.

The wind coming out the fan in the freezer section
is not all that cold.

The thing runs for a while and stops. Then cycles
again after a bit. If it is off and I kill power at
the breaker, it will start again.

I need my freeze back before I loose big dollars
in food. And the local repairmen take forever to get
here. Plus, most of them suck at it. The one guy
that is magic at this stuff is so far away, it is
hard to get him to come out (I insist on paying travel,
but he is swamped.)

-T

Todd wrote:
Hi All,

Help!

refrigerator freezer:
Whirlpool GR2SHKXKQ
21.6 cu ft
Purchased ~ 12/2010

Stinker won't cool below 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Both
sections.

It started out stinking like a burnt tire. Then frost all
over the freezer items.

So I replaced the 4387244 Condenser Fan Motor, which indeed
was leaking oil and not spinning too freely.

Now I have lots of air going in the bottom front left
(my left, its right) and going out the bottom front
right.

The wind coming out the fan in the freezer section
is not all that cold.

The thing runs for a while and stops. Then cycles
again after a bit. If it is off and I kill power at
the breaker, it will start again.

I need my freeze back before I loose big dollars
in food. And the local repairmen take forever to get
here. Plus, most of them suck at it. The one guy
that is magic at this stuff is so far away, it is
hard to get him to come out (I insist on paying travel,
but he is swamped.)

-T
Hi,
No ice build up inside any where? Checked defrost timer?

On Sat, 06 Sep 2014 12:43:21 -0700, Todd wrote:

Hi All,

Help!

refrigerator freezer:
Whirlpool GR2SHKXKQ
21.6 cu ft
Purchased ~ 12/2010

Stinker won't cool below 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Both
sections.

It started out stinking like a burnt tire. Then frost all
over the freezer items.

So I replaced the 4387244 Condenser Fan Motor, which indeed
was leaking oil and not spinning too freely.

Now I have lots of air going in the bottom front left
(my left, its right) and going out the bottom front
right.

The wind coming out the fan in the freezer section
is not all that cold.

The thing runs for a while and stops. Then cycles
again after a bit. If it is off and I kill power at
the breaker, it will start again.

I need my freeze back before I loose big dollars
in food. And the local repairmen take forever to get
here. Plus, most of them suck at it. The one guy
that is magic at this stuff is so far away, it is
hard to get him to come out (I insist on paying travel,
but he is swamped.)

-T

I just went through a problem with my Frigidare side by side. It
would reset and work for some days by unplugging power cord for a few
minutes and then go crazy again later. My wife used a friend's
husband (tech) to fix it as I was in the hospital. He threw parts at
it, but really did not "test". Some things you can't. test - main
board -just observation of burn spots, capacitor, etc.

He replaced the main board, nope, no fix. Took that out and put in an
evaporator fan. Failed later; so he put the main board back in. That
fixed it.

Put your model number in @ http://www.repairclinic.com/ and see the
parts locations. Youtube is another source for videos. Search it.

Maybe David will chime in with a "service manual" for testing
components.

Do you get "error codes" on a LED display?

Wish I could help you...

On 9/6/2014 3:51 PM, Todd wrote:
refrigerator freezer:
Whirlpool GR2SHKXKQ
21.6 cu ft
Purchased ~ 12/2010

here. Plus, most of them suck at it. The one guy
that is magic at this stuff is so far away, it is
hard to get him to come out (I insist on paying travel,
but he is swamped.)

-T
Hi,
No ice build up inside any where? Checked defrost timer?

Hi Tony,

No ice anywhere.

How do I check the defrost timer?

-T

I looked on the Sears web site, and appears that
the timer is an electronic control. Too many
contacts to swap out with an old one. Might be
the problem.

Hey, you didn't say on your first post. Did you
want to try and fix this yourself?

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 9/6/2014 4:00 PM, Todd wrote:

If it helps, the big metal black ball in the back that
the condenser fan motor sucks across is plenty hot.


Thanks, that gives us some information. Let
me know if you want some things to check,
and work on.


--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 09/06/2014 01:07 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 9/6/2014 4:00 PM, Todd wrote:

If it helps, the big metal black ball in the back that
the condenser fan motor sucks across is plenty hot.


Thanks, that gives us some information. Let
me know if you want some things to check,
and work on.

Stromin! Yes. That is why I posted!

On 09/06/2014 01:04 PM, Oren wrote:
I was in the hospital

Everything okay now?

On 09/06/2014 01:04 PM, Oren wrote:
He replaced the main board, nope, no fix. Took that out and put in an
evaporator fan. Failed later; so he put the main board back in. That
fixed it.

So, he replace the main board, didn't fix it. Then later
put the original main board back in and that fixed it?

On 9/6/2014 4:16 PM, Todd wrote:
On 09/06/2014 01:07 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 9/6/2014 4:00 PM, Todd wrote:

If it helps, the big metal black ball in the back that
the condenser fan motor sucks across is plenty hot.


Thanks, that gives us some information. Let
me know if you want some things to check,
and work on.

Stromin! Yes. That is why I posted!

You dyslexic? Be nice if you'd spell my name.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On Sat, 06 Sep 2014 13:18:43 -0700, Todd wrote:

On 09/06/2014 01:04 PM, Oren wrote:
He replaced the main board, nope, no fix. Took that out and put in an
evaporator fan. Failed later; so he put the main board back in. That
fixed it.

So, he replace the main board, didn't fix it. Then later
put the original main board back in and that fixed it?

Not exactly. He kept the new Main board. (not returnable). After the
evaporator fan was replaced, and things went nuts again, he put the
new main board back in. That fixed it.

On 9/6/2014 4:15 PM, Todd wrote:
Hey, you didn't say on your first post. Did you
want to try and fix this yourself?


Yes.

It does cool, but only down to 50 F. If I load
it up with ice, it gets down to 35 F

1) The metal or cardboard on the back is important.
Please replace it after any examination or testing.
2) Is the fan in the back running?
3) There should be some black tube and wires, either
by the fan or under the unit. These need to be clean,
remove any dust or dirt with a brush and vacuum cleaner
with a hose.

Those actions fix a LOT of problems. The big round hot
black ball in the back, is it just hot, or does it hum
and vibrate?

Stay near by it for two or three minutes. Does it hum
all the time? Does it hum, pause, and then louder
click?

These are part of the diagnostic.
--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 9/6/2014 4:21 PM, Oren wrote:
Not exactly. He kept the new Main board. (not returnable). After the
evaporator fan was replaced, and things went nuts again, he put the
new main board back in. That fixed it.

Might have had a dirty connection. Some times
just remove and replace fixes things.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 09/06/2014 01:21 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 9/6/2014 4:16 PM, Todd wrote:
On 09/06/2014 01:07 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 9/6/2014 4:00 PM, Todd wrote:

If it helps, the big metal black ball in the back that
the condenser fan motor sucks across is plenty hot.


Thanks, that gives us some information. Let
me know if you want some things to check,
and work on.

Stromin! Yes. That is why I posted!

You dyslexic? Be nice if you'd spell my name.


Hi Stormin Mormon (copy and paste this time),

A Dyslexic typer for sure. I make so many typo'es. Took
me a minutes to find how I messed yours up. And I can't
see the stinkers until AFTER I hit the send button.

Yes I want things to check.

The thing is now sitting at 55F. I am wondering if it
is not all the ice I put in it finally warning up. The
air out the fan in the back of the freeze cavity is cool,
but not all that cool.

-T

On Sat, 06 Sep 2014 16:27:10 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 9/6/2014 4:21 PM, Oren wrote:
Not exactly. He kept the new Main board. (not returnable). After the
evaporator fan was replaced, and things went nuts again, he put the
new main board back in. That fixed it.

Might have had a dirty connection. Some times
just remove and replace fixes things.

Sure! If the connection is just dirty. Not so much if parts are bad.

In ,
Todd typed:
Hi All,

Help!

refrigerator freezer:
Whirlpool GR2SHKXKQ
21.6 cu ft
Purchased ~ 12/2010

Stinker won't cool below 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Both
sections.

It started out stinking like a burnt tire. Then frost all
over the freezer items.

So I replaced the 4387244 Condenser Fan Motor, which indeed
was leaking oil and not spinning too freely. .....

This probably won't help, and I don't really know a lot about
refrigerator/freezer stuff, but....
maybe try unplugging the unit, wait 5 minutes, then plug it back in. I am
just wondering if the earlier event that caused the burning smell may have
goofed up the software and, if so, maybe doing the "reboot" routine will
work. Unlikely, I know, but it's free to try.

On Sat, 06 Sep 2014 13:17:33 -0700, Todd wrote:

On 09/06/2014 01:04 PM, Oren wrote:
I was in the hospital

Everything okay now?

I'll know more on Tuesday. It's a long, long story

On Saturday, September 6, 2014 3:51:01 PM UTC-4, Todd wrote:
On 09/06/2014 12:46 PM, Tony Hwang wrote:

Todd wrote:

Hi All,



Help!



refrigerator freezer:

Whirlpool GR2SHKXKQ

21.6 cu ft

Purchased ~ 12/2010



Stinker won't cool below 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Both

sections.



It started out stinking like a burnt tire. Then frost all

over the freezer items.



So I replaced the 4387244 Condenser Fan Motor, which indeed

was leaking oil and not spinning too freely.



Now I have lots of air going in the bottom front left

(my left, its right) and going out the bottom front

right.



The wind coming out the fan in the freezer section

is not all that cold.



The thing runs for a while and stops. Then cycles

again after a bit. If it is off and I kill power at

the breaker, it will start again.



I need my freeze back before I loose big dollars

in food. And the local repairmen take forever to get

here. Plus, most of them suck at it. The one guy

that is magic at this stuff is so far away, it is

hard to get him to come out (I insist on paying travel,

but he is swamped.)



-T

Hi,

No ice build up inside any where? Checked defrost timer?



Hi Tony,



No ice anywhere.



How do I check the defrost timer?


If you can just let the whole unit warm up enough to basically start fresh,
it won't matter if the defrost is working or not. It will have been defrosted
by being turned off, warmed up. When you restart it, if it still doesn't cool,
then you know it's not a defrost issue, be it the timer, heater or whatever.

From the description, it sounds like you have bigger problems. Basic diagnosis
I would do is if the compressor is running, air is flowing over the condensor
coils, and the evaporator coils are not getting real cold, then you have a
refrigerant system issue of some kind and time to either junk it or call a pro.

Todd wrote:
On 09/06/2014 01:06 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 9/6/2014 3:51 PM, Todd wrote:
refrigerator freezer:
Whirlpool GR2SHKXKQ
21.6 cu ft
Purchased ~ 12/2010

here. Plus, most of them suck at it. The one guy
that is magic at this stuff is so far away, it is
hard to get him to come out (I insist on paying travel,
but he is swamped.)

-T
Hi,
No ice build up inside any where? Checked defrost timer?

Hi Tony,

No ice anywhere.

How do I check the defrost timer?

-T

I looked on the Sears web site, and appears that
the timer is an electronic control. Too many
contacts to swap out with an old one. Might be
the problem.

Hey, you didn't say on your first post. Did you
want to try and fix this yourself?


Yes.

It does cool, but only down to 50 F. If I load
it up with ice, it gets down to 35 F


Hi,
Drain hose clean? That was the problerrm with my daughter's unit.

"trader_4" wrote in message
...
On Saturday, September 6, 2014 3:51:01 PM UTC-4, Todd wrote:
On 09/06/2014 12:46 PM, Tony Hwang wrote:

Todd wrote:

Hi All,



Help!



refrigerator freezer:

Whirlpool GR2SHKXKQ

21.6 cu ft

Purchased ~ 12/2010



Stinker won't cool below 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Both

sections.



It started out stinking like a burnt tire. Then frost all

over the freezer items.



So I replaced the 4387244 Condenser Fan Motor, which indeed

was leaking oil and not spinning too freely.



Now I have lots of air going in the bottom front left

(my left, its right) and going out the bottom front

right.



The wind coming out the fan in the freezer section

is not all that cold.



The thing runs for a while and stops. Then cycles

again after a bit. If it is off and I kill power at

the breaker, it will start again.



I need my freeze back before I loose big dollars

in food. And the local repairmen take forever to get

here. Plus, most of them suck at it. The one guy

that is magic at this stuff is so far away, it is

hard to get him to come out (I insist on paying travel,

but he is swamped.)



-T

Hi,

No ice build up inside any where? Checked defrost timer?



Hi Tony,



No ice anywhere.



How do I check the defrost timer?


If you can just let the whole unit warm up enough to basically start
fresh,
it won't matter if the defrost is working or not. It will have been
defrosted
by being turned off, warmed up. When you restart it, if it still doesn't
cool,
then you know it's not a defrost issue, be it the timer, heater or
whatever.

unless the defrost cycle is stuck on?

On 9/6/2014 4:28 PM, Todd wrote:
Stromin! Yes. That is why I posted!

You dyslexic? Be nice if you'd spell my name.


Hi Stormin Mormon (copy and paste this time),

A Dyslexic typer for sure. I make so many typo'es. Took
me a minutes to find how I messed yours up. And I can't
see the stinkers until AFTER I hit the send button.

Yes I want things to check.

The thing is now sitting at 55F. I am wondering if it
is not all the ice I put in it finally warning up. The
air out the fan in the back of the freeze cavity is cool,
but not all that cool.

-T

I don't know a lot about dyslexia, but it's very
real, and not a lot you can do about it. I'll be
gentle next time, if I say anything at all.

Please check for dust in the coils, that's one very
common problem. Also if the big black ball in the
back hums, vibrates, and if it pauses every couple
seconds. Now that I've repeated myself, I'll read
your other posts.
--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 9/6/2014 5:03 PM, Pico Rico wrote:
"trader_4" wrote in message
If you can just let the whole unit warm up enough to basically start
fresh,
it won't matter if the defrost is working or not. It will have been
defrosted
by being turned off, warmed up. When you restart it, if it still doesn't
cool,
then you know it's not a defrost issue, be it the timer, heater or
whatever.

unless the defrost cycle is stuck on?


On the older units with mechanical defrost timer,
"stuck in defrost" would also turn off both fans
and turn off the compressor. Electronic? Never
know how they work.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 09/06/2014 02:01 PM, Tony Hwang wrote:
Todd wrote:
On 09/06/2014 01:06 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 9/6/2014 3:51 PM, Todd wrote:
refrigerator freezer:
Whirlpool GR2SHKXKQ
21.6 cu ft
Purchased ~ 12/2010

here. Plus, most of them suck at it. The one guy
that is magic at this stuff is so far away, it is
hard to get him to come out (I insist on paying travel,
but he is swamped.)

-T
Hi,
No ice build up inside any where? Checked defrost timer?

Hi Tony,

No ice anywhere.

How do I check the defrost timer?

-T

I looked on the Sears web site, and appears that
the timer is an electronic control. Too many
contacts to swap out with an old one. Might be
the problem.

Hey, you didn't say on your first post. Did you
want to try and fix this yourself?


Yes.

It does cool, but only down to 50 F. If I load
it up with ice, it gets down to 35 F


Hi,
Drain hose clean? That was the problerrm with my daughter's unit.


No water build up in any cavity.

On 09/06/2014 02:03 PM, Pico Rico wrote:
"trader_4" wrote in message
...
On Saturday, September 6, 2014 3:51:01 PM UTC-4, Todd wrote:
On 09/06/2014 12:46 PM, Tony Hwang wrote:

Todd wrote:

Hi All,



Help!



refrigerator freezer:

Whirlpool GR2SHKXKQ

21.6 cu ft

Purchased ~ 12/2010



Stinker won't cool below 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Both

sections.



It started out stinking like a burnt tire. Then frost all

over the freezer items.



So I replaced the 4387244 Condenser Fan Motor, which indeed

was leaking oil and not spinning too freely.



Now I have lots of air going in the bottom front left

(my left, its right) and going out the bottom front

right.



The wind coming out the fan in the freezer section

is not all that cold.



The thing runs for a while and stops. Then cycles

again after a bit. If it is off and I kill power at

the breaker, it will start again.



I need my freeze back before I loose big dollars

in food. And the local repairmen take forever to get

here. Plus, most of them suck at it. The one guy

that is magic at this stuff is so far away, it is

hard to get him to come out (I insist on paying travel,

but he is swamped.)



-T

Hi,

No ice build up inside any where? Checked defrost timer?



Hi Tony,



No ice anywhere.



How do I check the defrost timer?


If you can just let the whole unit warm up enough to basically start
fresh,
it won't matter if the defrost is working or not. It will have been
defrosted
by being turned off, warmed up. When you restart it, if it still doesn't
cool,
then you know it's not a defrost issue, be it the timer, heater or
whatever.

unless the defrost cycle is stuck on?

Runs for about a half hour and stops. Then waits about
a half an hour and cycles again.

On 9/6/2014 5:17 PM, Todd wrote:
Don't remember any noise. But, wasn't checking for it.
It is just hot.


These are part of the diagnostic.


Okay, I just got a hold of the tech I like on the phone.

He said if I was losing freon, both fans would stay on
all the time. He also said the bulb in the back would
be cooler as it would have less work to do.

He said that the fact that both fans go off and it cycles
on and off makes him thing that the thing thinks it
is at temperature. He said, it is possibly the

--- 2213100 Adaptive, Defrost Control (electronic)
or the
--- 2200859 Thermostat Assembly

He told me to turn the refrigerator section down and
see if the temperature decreases from 55F. That would
pin it to the Thermostat Assembly.

Sounds like your man knows some about these new
electronic fridge. I'd keep working with him.


--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On Sat, 06 Sep 2014 14:33:43 -0700, Todd wrote:

On the older units with mechanical defrost timer,
"stuck in defrost" would also turn off both fans
and turn off the compressor. Electronic? Never
know how they work.


It is electronic

You did not answer if there was an "error code" on an LED display.

Not that I can help, but it may lead to an answer...

On 9/6/2014 5:38 PM, Oren wrote:

It is electronic

You did not answer if there was an "error code" on an LED display.

Not that I can help, but it may lead to an answer...

The next challenge is to decide if there
is "some cooling" or if the fan is circulating
existing cold.

That will help with the diagnostic flow chart.


--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

Todd,

Ok, Let's call a few friends and get the food from your freezer to
theirs. Do you have a cooler? Borrow one if not. Get some ice. and move the
fridge contents to the cooler.
Great, it's no longer an emergency. Lets turn off the fridge. Open the
doors. We're going to thaw it out. Should take 3 hrs. Your beer will go bad
if you don't drink it. Have one now.
All right. Let's turn the fridge on. Set the various controls to mid-scale
or whatever the manual advises. Close the doors. It can take about 8 hrs for
the fridge to cool down. Got a fridge thermometer I hope. Put it in the
freezer. Those beers are going bad. Drink another one.
It's been 8 hrs so what's the freezer temp? Less then 5 deg F? Move the
thermometer to the fridge section. How's the temp there? Around 40? Move the
food from the cooler back into the fridge.
Let it run for a few days. If the temps stay cool then get your freezer
contents back.
At a guess, your fan died. Without the fan the cooling coils in the floor
of your freezer iced up. Why the defrost cycle didn't clear this, I don't
know but it happens. You've replaced the bad fan and thawed the cooling
coils. I hope that fixes it.
If not fixed post back with freezer and fridge temps.

Dave M.

On Sat, 06 Sep 2014 17:49:11 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 9/6/2014 5:38 PM, Oren wrote:

It is electronic

You did not answer if there was an "error code" on an LED display.

Not that I can help, but it may lead to an answer...

The next challenge is to decide if there
is "some cooling" or if the fan is circulating
existing cold.

That will help with the diagnostic flow chart.

Figuring out mine had some test to check if cold air moved between
compartments - freezer / fresh food or if the vents were frozen shut,
maybe.

It was above my pay grade, but made some sense at the time.

"David L. Martel" wrote in message
...
Todd,

Ok, Let's call a few friends and get the food from your freezer to
theirs. Do you have a cooler? Borrow one if not. Get some ice. and move
the fridge contents to the cooler.

Scratch all that. Gather all the neighborhood grills in a circle . . .

On Sat, 6 Sep 2014 17:57:41 -0400, "David L. Martel"
wrote:

Todd,

Ok, Let's call a few friends and get the food from your freezer to
theirs. Do you have a cooler? Borrow one if not. Get some ice. and move the
fridge contents to the cooler.
Great, it's no longer an emergency. Lets turn off the fridge. Open the
doors. We're going to thaw it out. Should take 3 hrs. Your beer will go bad
if you don't drink it. Have one now.
All right. Let's turn the fridge on. Set the various controls to mid-scale
or whatever the manual advises. Close the doors. It can take about 8 hrs for
the fridge to cool down. Got a fridge thermometer I hope. Put it in the
freezer. Those beers are going bad. Drink another one.
It's been 8 hrs so what's the freezer temp? Less then 5 deg F? Move the
thermometer to the fridge section. How's the temp there? Around 40? Move the
food from the cooler back into the fridge.
Let it run for a few days. If the temps stay cool then get your freezer
contents back.
At a guess, your fan died. Without the fan the cooling coils in the floor
of your freezer iced up. Why the defrost cycle didn't clear this, I don't
know but it happens. You've replaced the bad fan and thawed the cooling
coils. I hope that fixes it.
If not fixed post back with freezer and fridge temps.

Dave M.

Dry Ice in a cooler will save the day. Storage at the neighbor's
house, in a freezer, is another option, for a few days. BTDT

Dry Ice will keep the freezer contents frozen in a good cooler. BTDT.

I ship seafood using dry ice. Wrapped in newspaper.

On 9/6/2014 5:46 PM, Todd wrote:
Please check for dust in the coils, that's one very
common problem. Also if the big black ball in the
back hums, vibrates, and if it pauses every couple
seconds. Now that I've repeated myself, I'll read
your other posts.


Oh Poop. There are some coils I missed. I will
vac out the front coils. Then report back.

I've found on some fridge, it's necessary to
open the door, and snap off decorative plastic
plate. About four inches tall, and runs the
width of the fridge. You'll need a vacuum cleaner
with a hose in one hand, a flashlight in your
other hand, and a long brush in your other hand.
Close one eye, look in with the eye closest the
floor. Operate the vac cleaner, flash light and
brush with your hands.

Look into the back and make sure the fan still
runs, not blocked with some fiberglass, DAMHIKT.


--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 9/6/2014 5:57 PM, David L. Martel wrote:
At a guess, your fan died. Without the fan the cooling coils in the
floor of your freezer iced up. Why the defrost cycle didn't clear this,
I don't know but it happens. You've replaced the bad fan and thawed the
cooling coils. I hope that fixes it.
If not fixed post back with freezer and fridge temps.

Dave M.

He did say it was about 50F in fridge and freezer
both. And good air flow. This isn't consistent
with your diagnosis.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 09/06/2014 01:47 PM, Oren wrote:
On Sat, 06 Sep 2014 13:17:33 -0700, Todd wrote:

On 09/06/2014 01:04 PM, Oren wrote:
I was in the hospital

Everything okay now?

I'll know more on Tuesday. It's a long, long story


I was going to ask you if you needed a prayer. But then I decided
you didn't get a vote, so you got one anyway

On 9/6/14, 6:31 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 9/6/2014 5:57 PM, David L. Martel wrote:
At a guess, your fan died. Without the fan the cooling coils in the
floor of your freezer iced up. Why the defrost cycle didn't clear this,
I don't know but it happens. You've replaced the bad fan and thawed the
cooling coils. I hope that fixes it.
If not fixed post back with freezer and fridge temps.

Dave M.

He did say it was about 50F in fridge and freezer
both. And good air flow. This isn't consistent
with your diagnosis.

If his frozen food hasn't thawed, I suppose the food is holding the
freezer at about 32 F. I'd take an indoor/outdoor digital thermometer
and put the probe in the evaporator air in the freezer. I don't know
what the temperature drop should be, but if it read 12 F, for example,
I'd think the problem was that the thermostat wasn't keeping the
compressor on long enough.

If it looked like thermostat trouble (as the repairman guessed), I'd
look for the possibility that some obstruction was subjecting it to too
much freezer air. If that didn't pan out, and it were possible to lean
a water bag against the thermostat area, a bag of lukewarm water might
be used to trick the thermostat and save the food until it could be fixed.

On 9/6/2014 7:14 PM, Todd wrote:

I've found on some fridge, it's necessary to
open the door, and snap off decorative plastic
plate. About four inches tall, and runs the
width of the fridge. You'll need a vacuum cleaner
with a hose in one hand, a flashlight in your
other hand, and a long brush in your other hand.
Close one eye, look in with the eye closest the
floor. Operate the vac cleaner, flash light and
brush with your hands.

Look into the back and make sure the fan still
runs, not blocked with some fiberglass, DAMHIKT.



The front was a mess.

After, I did the old toilet paper hanging down three feet over
the grill test. The exhaust pushes it about 5 times as far

I have ice in the fridg, so it is down to 50F. The Freezer
is a 60F. Now we wait.

I am go to go fishing! Free fishing day ins th PRC.

Thank you for helping me with this

-T


Dusty condenser will do this kind of symptoms. Hope
that's going to solve things for now. Long time till
Monday when you can "get the man".

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 9/6/14, 7:16 PM, J Burns wrote:
On 9/6/14, 6:31 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 9/6/2014 5:57 PM, David L. Martel wrote:
At a guess, your fan died. Without the fan the cooling coils in the
floor of your freezer iced up. Why the defrost cycle didn't clear this,
I don't know but it happens. You've replaced the bad fan and thawed the
cooling coils. I hope that fixes it.
If not fixed post back with freezer and fridge temps.

Dave M.

He did say it was about 50F in fridge and freezer
both. And good air flow. This isn't consistent
with your diagnosis.

If his frozen food hasn't thawed, I suppose the food is holding the
freezer at about 32 F. I'd take an indoor/outdoor digital thermometer
and put the probe in the evaporator air in the freezer. I don't know
what the temperature drop should be, but if it read 12 F, for example,
I'd think the problem was that the thermostat wasn't keeping the
compressor on long enough.

If it looked like thermostat trouble (as the repairman guessed), I'd
look for the possibility that some obstruction was subjecting it to too
much freezer air. If that didn't pan out, and it were possible to lean
a water bag against the thermostat area, a bag of lukewarm water might
be used to trick the thermostat and save the food until it could be fixed.

I take it back...

On 9/6/2014 7:14 PM, Todd wrote:
I was in the hospital
Everything okay now?
I'll know more on Tuesday. It's a long, long story


I was going to ask you if you needed a prayer. But then I decided
you didn't get a vote, so you got one anyway

Wow, going to ruin this list by injecting
religion? What a guy....

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 9/6/2014 7:17 PM, J Burns wrote:
If it looked like thermostat trouble (as the repairman guessed), I'd
look for the possibility that some obstruction was subjecting it to too
much freezer air. If that didn't pan out, and it were possible to lean
a water bag against the thermostat area, a bag of lukewarm water might
be used to trick the thermostat and save the food until it could be
fixed.

I take it back...

The situation is rapidly emerging. I suspect
Todd will be back in a few minutes. He'll
tell us that he prayed over his refrigerator,
and sprinkled with holy water and salad
oil. He knocked the refrigerator back into
the stadium seat, and declared it healed.

Praise be to Whirlpool!

..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On Saturday, September 6, 2014 5:33:21 PM UTC-4, Todd wrote:
On 09/06/2014 02:03 PM, Pico Rico wrote:

"trader_4" wrote in message

...

On Saturday, September 6, 2014 3:51:01 PM UTC-4, Todd wrote:

On 09/06/2014 12:46 PM, Tony Hwang wrote:



Todd wrote:



Hi All,







Help!







refrigerator freezer:



Whirlpool GR2SHKXKQ



21.6 cu ft



Purchased ~ 12/2010







Stinker won't cool below 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Both



sections.







It started out stinking like a burnt tire. Then frost all



over the freezer items.







So I replaced the 4387244 Condenser Fan Motor, which indeed



was leaking oil and not spinning too freely.







Now I have lots of air going in the bottom front left



(my left, its right) and going out the bottom front



right.







The wind coming out the fan in the freezer section



is not all that cold.







The thing runs for a while and stops. Then cycles



again after a bit. If it is off and I kill power at



the breaker, it will start again.







I need my freeze back before I loose big dollars



in food. And the local repairmen take forever to get



here. Plus, most of them suck at it. The one guy



that is magic at this stuff is so far away, it is



hard to get him to come out (I insist on paying travel,



but he is swamped.)







-T



Hi,



No ice build up inside any where? Checked defrost timer?







Hi Tony,







No ice anywhere.







How do I check the defrost timer?





If you can just let the whole unit warm up enough to basically start

fresh,

it won't matter if the defrost is working or not. It will have been

defrosted

by being turned off, warmed up. When you restart it, if it still doesn't

cool,

then you know it's not a defrost issue, be it the timer, heater or

whatever.



unless the defrost cycle is stuck on?



Runs for about a half hour and stops. Then waits about

a half an hour and cycles again.

When it's running for that half hour, is cold air blowing into the
freezer or is it never really cold?

Also, related to the tech thinking it's a thermostat problem, does this
have a temp display? If it's displaying 50F, hard to figure how it can
be a thermostat issue on an electronic unit.

The frost all over the freezer items is a clear indication that there's no defrost cycle. Normally, the evaporator coil is the coldest thing in the fridge, and so frost forms on IT rather than anywhere else. That frost is melted off with each defrost cycle, so moisture is eliminated from everywhere in the fridge. Technically speaking, the frost should "sublimate" or go directly from a solid to a vapour without first melting. As that happens the humidity of the air in the fridge goes up, but that humidity would then normally form frost on the evaporator coil. If there is no defrost cycle, and the evaporator coil gets covered over and insulated with frost, the humidity in the air in the fridge will keep rising and end up forming frost on the heaviest objects in the freezer (things with a lot of thermal momentum) which will still be very cold. I expect that's why the OP noticed frost on the stuff in the freezer.

So, I would look for a wiring diagram for that fridge and see if it's equipped with a test plug which will allow you to check for continuity through the defrost heater. Failing that, look for a removable panel in the freezer compartment. Behind that panel you should find the evaporator coil and the defrost heater. Visual inspection of the defrost heater should tell you if it's still OK or not. It needs to be in one piece.

If there's no continuity through the defrost heater, or if it's obviously broken, then you don't have a defrost cycle, and frost will build up on the evaporator coil and effectively insulate that coil, thereby resulting in your freezer becoming warmer, which is what you're experiencing.

Check with your fridge guru and see if there's a way of testing for continuity through the defrost heater. If not, ask him what panel needs to be removed to access the evaporator coil and defrost heater(s), and visually inspect that defrost heater.

Defrost timers are always suspect, but defrost timers are generally pretty reliable and are seldom the cause of problems.

If the frost that's formed on your evaporator coil is all patchy, with some being hard ice, then it's probably your defrost thermostat. Technically, this thing is called a "Defrost Termination Switch", or "DST", and a new one only costs about $10 to $15.

And, finally, beer won't go bad if you don't keep it cold.

I guess one of the "advantages" of living in Winnipeg is if your fridge ever craps out on you in the winter, you can put all your food in the trunk of your car. The outdoor temperature will be colder than the freezer in your fridge from November to March most years. But, if you live where I live, the idea of keeping food in your car instead of your fridge to reduce global warming isn't one you think about too much. In fact, you think a lot more about buying a car with a big engine that'll produce more CO2 to kinda help this global warming thing along.