My sister calls me up with a report of a slow kitchen sink leak.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7133/1...b405d4a3_z.jpg

It turns out to be the connection between plastic and metal:
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3728/1...441550b3_z.jpg

I tried using the "correct" tool, but it just bungled up the ring:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7424/1...62995cc1_b.jpg

I tried using the old screwdriver & mallet method, also to no avail:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7414/1...b1bf74f6_b.jpg

Now it's all bungled up (and she's mad at me because it's inoperative):
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5012/1...dd93f3bb_b.jpg

What am I doing wrong?

On Sun, 30 Mar 2014 01:10:32 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

My sister calls me up with a report of a slow kitchen sink leak.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7133/1...b405d4a3_z.jpg

It turns out to be the connection between plastic and metal:
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3728/1...441550b3_z.jpg

I tried using the "correct" tool, but it just bungled up the ring:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7424/1...62995cc1_b.jpg

I tried using the old screwdriver & mallet method, also to no avail:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7414/1...b1bf74f6_b.jpg

Now it's all bungled up (and she's mad at me because it's inoperative):
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5012/1...dd93f3bb_b.jpg

What am I doing wrong?

Wondered what you got up to, lately.

Stick a set of pliers handles down from the top .. The top and bottom
top parts are threaded - separate them.

"Danny D." wrote in message
...
My sister calls me up with a report of a slow kitchen sink leak.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7133/1...b405d4a3_z.jpg

It turns out to be the connection between plastic and metal:
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3728/1...441550b3_z.jpg

I tried using the "correct" tool, but it just bungled up the ring:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7424/1...62995cc1_b.jpg

I tried using the old screwdriver & mallet method, also to no avail:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7414/1...b1bf74f6_b.jpg

Now it's all bungled up (and she's mad at me because it's inoperative):
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5012/1...dd93f3bb_b.jpg

What am I doing wrong?

I used a propane torch on one that was giving me problems. Heated it and
then it turned free.



---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com

Oren wrote:
On Sun, 30 Mar 2014 01:10:32 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

My sister calls me up with a report of a slow kitchen sink leak.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7133/1...b405d4a3_z.jpg

It turns out to be the connection between plastic and metal:
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3728/1...441550b3_z.jpg

I tried using the "correct" tool, but it just bungled up the ring:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7424/1...62995cc1_b.jpg

I tried using the old screwdriver & mallet method, also to no avail:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7414/1...b1bf74f6_b.jpg

Now it's all bungled up (and she's mad at me because it's
inoperative):
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5012/1...dd93f3bb_b.jpg

What am I doing wrong?

Wondered what you got up to, lately.

Stick a set of pliers handles down from the top .. The top and bottom
top parts are threaded - separate them.


That's true of most vanity drains , but not most kitchen basket strainers
.. Best thing to do in this case is get the old one out any way possible and
replace it with a new unit . Might want to do a pre-emptive replacement of
the other one too if it's a double sink . .
--
Snag

What Danny D says

Ralph Mowery wrote:
"Danny D." wrote in message
...
My sister calls me up with a report of a slow kitchen sink leak.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7133/1...b405d4a3_z.jpg

It turns out to be the connection between plastic and metal:
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3728/1...441550b3_z.jpg

I tried using the "correct" tool, but it just bungled up the ring:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7424/1...62995cc1_b.jpg

I tried using the old screwdriver & mallet method, also to no avail:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7414/1...b1bf74f6_b.jpg

Now it's all bungled up (and she's mad at me because it's
inoperative):
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5012/1...dd93f3bb_b.jpg What am I
doing wrong?

I used a propane torch on one that was giving me problems. Heated it
and then it turned free.

I was going to suggest pouring a pot of boiling water down the drain first, but
this probably would be better.

Danny D.:

You're not doing anything wrong.

It looks like someone has mixed plumber's putty with linseed oil, and used that to GLUE the lock nut you're trying to remove on. That yellow stuff in your pictures looks too glossy to me to be ordinary plumber's putty. Either it's plumber's putty mixed with linseed oil, or it's some kinda glue or something.

Normally, the plumber's putty goes between the flange at the top of the strainer basket and the flanged bottom of the sink. See the image below:

http://www.plumbinghelp.ca/images2/B...stallation.png

There shouldn't be any plumber's putty on the underside of the sink at all, and that yellow stuff in your pictures sure doesn't look like just plumber's putty to me. I'm thinking it's some kind of glue or maybe some one figured they'd mix linseed oil into their plumber's putty so that it would stick better and harden up over time, making it a bytch to remove that lock nut in future. AND, he appears to have used that linseed oil/plumber's putty on the threads between the lock nut and the strainer basket as well. That's why the lock nut wouldn't turn for you; it's glued on with linseed oil.

Look at the image linked to above. It's incorrect because it doesn't show the threads on the strainer basket or the threads on the lock nut. The OD of the strainer basket is threaded and the ID of the lock nut is threaded so that when you screw the lock nut onto the strainer basket, you squash the plumber's putty between the flange at the top of the strainer basket and the flanged bottom of the sink, making a water proof seal. You simply don't need any plumber's putty on the underside of the sink, so why that stuff is there is a mystery, and suggest to me that whomever did that work didn't know what he was doing.

Use a screw driver or something to pry one end of the broken locknut outwards to break it away from the strainer basket. Use two screw drivers to work your way around the lock nut, or better yet, just break the rest of it off too.

Then, use a small screw driver or even the corner of a wood chisel to pry the flanged top of the stainer basket upward so that it comes out of the sink. If it's glued on with linseed oil, you may have to take a torch to the strainer basket (ONLY!) to soften the linseed oil so that it lets go of the strainer basket. Maybe put some cardboard under the fulcrum of whatever lever you use to pry up that strainer basket flange so that you don't mar the bottom of the sink.

Then figure out what that yellow stuff is and get it off. If it's plumber's putty, you should be able to scrape it off with a putty knife. If it's plumber's putty mixed with linseed oil, you'll probably have to use a paint stripper or a heat gun (or good hair dryer and lots of patience) to remove it. If it's got linseed oil in it, then get a paint stripper that uses methylene chloride as it's active ingredient, like Polystrippa. If it's some kinda glue, I'd try acetone or lacquer thinner to dissolve it. Nail polish remover is acetone, so maybe try that first to see if it dissolves that yellow stuff. You may want to try carving most of it off with a cheap Stanley wood chisel for $5 from Home Depot, and then dissolving what's left with acetone or lacquer thinner.

Then, phone around to the plumbing wholesalers in your area and find out which of them sell Kindred 1135 strainer baskets, and replace the junk you have with the best strainer basket on the market that I know of. The 1135 doesn't use a lock nut. It uses a threaded hollow rod in the middle of the strainer basket that you tighten with a coin, like a quarter or Canadian "loonie" dollar coin.

You're not doing anything wrong. That strainer basket was a problem waiting for someone to correct it.

I should have also mentioned that the reason why someone would have mixed plumber's putty with linseed oil is because window glazing putty is clay mixed with linseed oil.

Linseed oil is a "drying oil", which means that it reacts with the oxygen in the air to form a solid. This is why window glazing putty hardens up after a while.

Plumber's putty is the same as window glazing putty, but it uses a "semi-drying oil" which reacts with the oxygen in the air to form a weak solid. So, plumber's putty will eventually harden up and become brittle just like glazing putty, but it doesn't stick well to surfaces (like wood and glass) like glazing putty does.

I think that someone has mixed linseed oil into plumber's putty to make something that's gonna behave more like a mixture of clay and oil based paint than plumber's putty. And, why they used it on the underside of the sink don't make no sense neither.

And, I'd presume they used that same stuff between the strainer basket flange and the sink bottom, so it might be a fight to get that strainer basket out too.

On Sat, 29 Mar 2014 18:49:45 -0700, Oren wrote:

Stick a set of pliers handles down from the top ..
The top and bottom top parts are threaded - separate them.

I tried all sorts of pliers to remove the basket from below:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7346/1...c8dfa1a1_z.jpg

I even tried circular vise grips:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7383/1...0d0e981d_c.jpg

In the end, I chiselled off the cast aluminum lock ring:
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3714/1...2fab2157_c.jpg

And, then I banged the basket up with a rubber mallet:
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3780/1...3646487d_c.jpg

The good news is that the basket is now out of my sister's sink:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7009/1...7ff88475_c.jpg

On Sat, 29 Mar 2014 22:21:39 -0500, Terry Coombs wrote:

Best thing to do in this case is get the old one out any way possible
and replace it with a new unit.

It wasn't elegant, but I pried & banged the old strainer basket out.
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3714/1...2fab2157_c.jpg

So that now all I have to do is clean up the gunk in the hole.
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3798/1...30e289ba_c.jpg

What I found out was that the previous owner jury rigged the basket
with caulk and the tailpipe put in upside down.
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3750/1...b00e1fd1_c.jpg

So, I'm going to replace all that incorrect plumbing tomorrow.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7248/1...2ca1f4eb_c.jpg

Once you're finished using your Plumber's putty, use your finger to wet the top surface of the putty in the tub with either corn oil or grape seed oil, which you should be able to find in your local supermarket. That will help prevent the putty from drying out and getting hard at the top on you. And, you can use the rest of it as cooking oil.

"Danny D." wrote:
On Sat, 29 Mar 2014 22:21:39 -0500, Terry Coombs wrote:

Best thing to do in this case is get the old one out any way possible
and replace it with a new unit.

It wasn't elegant, but I pried & banged the old strainer basket out.
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3714/1...2fab2157_c.jpg

So that now all I have to do is clean up the gunk in the hole.
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3798/1...30e289ba_c.jpg

What I found out was that the previous owner jury rigged the basket
with caulk and the tailpipe put in upside down.
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3750/1...b00e1fd1_c.jpg

So, I'm going to replace all that incorrect plumbing tomorrow.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7248/1...2ca1f4eb_c.jpg

Why not add a garbage disposal while you are under there?

My recommendation would be the InSinkErator Evolution Essential. Very
quiet, very powerful.

"Danny D." wrote in news:lh7qu7$pdj$1
@speranza.aioe.org:

My sister calls me up with a report of a slow kitchen sink leak.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7133/1...b405d4a3_z.jpg

It turns out to be the connection between plastic and metal:
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3728/1...441550b3_z.jpg

I tried using the "correct" tool, but it just bungled up the ring:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7424/1...62995cc1_b.jpg

I tried using the old screwdriver & mallet method, also to no avail:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7414/1...b1bf74f6_b.jpg

Now it's all bungled up (and she's mad at me because it's inoperative):
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5012/1...dd93f3bb_b.jpg

What am I doing wrong?



Now it's all bungled up (and she's mad at me because it's inoperative):
What am I doing wrong?

Nothing. You are right on track for stopping people from calling you about
crap.

On Sun, 30 Mar 2014 12:36:03 +0000, DerbyDad03 wrote:

Why not add a garbage disposal while you are under there?

There is already a 1/2 HP disposal in the same cabinet:
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3787/1...f61971c8_b.jpg

I made a whole bunch of mistakes, but here is the final setup:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7204/1...2e023c3e_b.jpg

On Sun, 30 Mar 2014 13:13:32 +0200, nestork wrote:

Once you're finished using your Plumber's putty, use your finger to wet
the top surface of the putty in the tub with either corn oil

Thanks for that idea.

I used olive oil, as that's all I had.

BTW, what is the purpose of this swivel contraption?
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3717/1...baf3c454_b.jpg

"Danny D." wrote:
On Sun, 30 Mar 2014 13:13:32 +0200, nestork wrote:

Once you're finished using your Plumber's putty, use your finger to wet
the top surface of the putty in the tub with either corn oil

Thanks for that idea.

I used olive oil, as that's all I had.

BTW, what is the purpose of this swivel contraption?
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3717/1...baf3c454_b.jpg

My guess is a vent.

What do I win if I'm right?

On Sat, 29 Mar 2014 23:18:43 -0700, Bob F wrote:

I was going to suggest pouring a pot of boiling water down
the drain first, but this probably would be better.

I peeled it apart and banged it out.

One mistake I made though, was not purchasing a WIDE flange
basket.

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3824/1...c21c4059_c.jpg

Apparently the flange on the new basket is slightly less wide
than the original, so, the rust at the edge of the sink is
now showing.

My mistake was in not knowing that ahead of time (which my
sister pointed out to me).

On Sun, 30 Mar 2014 23:02:55 +0000, DerbyDad03 wrote:

BTW, what is the purpose of this swivel contraption?
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3717/1...baf3c454_b.jpg

My guess is a vent.

What do I win if I'm right?

It sure looks and acts like a vent.

Is that normal for a kitchen sink trap to have a vent which is open
to the underside of the sink?

And, why bother swiveling?

Do you think the vent contraption had anything to do with this,
which I removed in order to make room for me to work down there?
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7367/1...1f76c48e_c.jpg

On Sat, 29 Mar 2014 22:09:32 -0400, Ralph Mowery wrote:

I used a propane torch on one that was giving me problems.
Heated it and then it turned free.

Thanks for that idea.

The biggest problem I had in assembly was that I couldn't figure
out the rather simple instructions for the life of me.
http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2874/1...5394358e_b.jpg

The kit came with *two* different types of nylon bushings:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7077/1...0dc71f52_b.jpg

One bushing was beveled, and I used that on the horizontal end.
But the other bushing was sqaured, and I couldn't figure out how
to use that squared bushing.

Nothing whatsoever I tried seemed to make any sense.
Googling, I found NOBODY used a square bushing on that end
(they used the square bushing only at the plastic-to-metal interface).

So, I gave up on the square bushing, and re-used an old beveled nylon
bushing instead:
http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2850/1...1c116e5b_b.jpg

QUESTION:
How was I supposed to use the SQUARE nylon bushing?

NOTE: The instructions show it clearly as #3 but those instructions
can't possibly work, as I tried it in that configuration and
if fell apart every time.

On Sat, 29 Mar 2014 20:37:55 -0700, wrote:

What Danny D says

I'm not sure what that means.

I made a whole bunch of mistakes, but, at least the result is
much *better* than the jury-rigged contraption that was there
initially, mostly held together with putty.

Since I had assembled and disassembled the pipes quite a few times
trying to figure out how to properly use the squared bushing (before
I gave up on it), I found this particular pair of pliers handy:
http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2934/1...b4e2c4e4_b.jpg

Danny D. wrote:
On Sun, 30 Mar 2014 23:02:55 +0000, DerbyDad03 wrote:

BTW, what is the purpose of this swivel contraption?
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3717/1...baf3c454_b.jpg

My guess is a vent.

What do I win if I'm right?

It sure looks and acts like a vent.

Is that normal for a kitchen sink trap to have a vent which is open
to the underside of the sink?

And, why bother swiveling?

Do you think the vent contraption had anything to do with this,
which I removed in order to make room for me to work down there?
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7367/1...1f76c48e_c.jpg

It is where the RO system drained when filtering the water to fill the tank.

Danny D. posted for all of us...

And I know how to SNIP


On Sat, 29 Mar 2014 23:18:43 -0700, Bob F wrote:

I was going to suggest pouring a pot of boiling water down
the drain first, but this probably would be better.

I peeled it apart and banged it out.

One mistake I made though, was not purchasing a WIDE flange
basket.

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3824/1...c21c4059_c.jpg

Apparently the flange on the new basket is slightly less wide
than the original, so, the rust at the edge of the sink is
now showing.

My mistake was in not knowing that ahead of time (which my
sister pointed out to me).

My advice about this time is to either get a new sister, have her call and
pay for a plumber or STFU.

On the black tube it looks like it goes to the water filter setup shown in
one of the pix. Probably a waste discharge line from the filter.

--
Tekkie

On Sun, 30 Mar 2014 23:24:03 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

On Sat, 29 Mar 2014 22:09:32 -0400, Ralph Mowery wrote:

I used a propane torch on one that was giving me problems.
Heated it and then it turned free.

Thanks for that idea.

The biggest problem I had in assembly was that I couldn't figure
out the rather simple instructions for the life of me.
http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2874/1...5394358e_b.jpg

The kit came with *two* different types of nylon bushings:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7077/1...0dc71f52_b.jpg

One bushing was beveled, and I used that on the horizontal end.
But the other bushing was sqaured, and I couldn't figure out how
to use that squared bushing.

Nothing whatsoever I tried seemed to make any sense.
Googling, I found NOBODY used a square bushing on that end
(they used the square bushing only at the plastic-to-metal interface).

So, I gave up on the square bushing, and re-used an old beveled nylon
bushing instead:
http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2850/1...1c116e5b_b.jpg

Why an old one when a new beveled bushing came with the pipe?



QUESTION:
How was I supposed to use the SQUARE nylon bushing?

NOTE: The instructions show it clearly as #3 but those instructions
can't possibly work, as I tried it in that configuration and
if fell apart every time.

On Sun, 30 Mar 2014 23:24:03 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

On Sat, 29 Mar 2014 22:09:32 -0400, Ralph Mowery wrote:

I used a propane torch on one that was giving me problems.
Heated it and then it turned free.

Thanks for that idea.

The biggest problem I had in assembly was that I couldn't figure
out the rather simple instructions for the life of me.
http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2874/1...5394358e_b.jpg

The kit came with *two* different types of nylon bushings:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7077/1...0dc71f52_b.jpg

One bushing was beveled, and I used that on the horizontal end.
But the other bushing was sqaured, and I couldn't figure out how
to use that squared bushing.

The beveled bushing/washer is the pipe to pipe socket slip seal.

The shoulder bushing/washer is the basket to tailpiece/pipe seal. Flat
top to basket, small part into tailpiece.


Nothing whatsoever I tried seemed to make any sense.
Googling, I found NOBODY used a square bushing on that end
(they used the square bushing only at the plastic-to-metal interface).

So, I gave up on the square bushing, and re-used an old beveled nylon
bushing instead:
http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2850/1...1c116e5b_b.jpg

QUESTION:
How was I supposed to use the SQUARE nylon bushing?

NOTE: The instructions show it clearly as #3 but those instructions
can't possibly work, as I tried it in that configuration and
if fell apart every time.
--
Mr.E

On Sun, 30 Mar 2014 19:12:28 -0600, JAS wrote:

It is where the RO system drained when filtering the water to fill the tank.

Ah, that makes sense.

The Sears Kenmore reverse osmosis water filtration system under
the cabinet was partially disconnected, so I simply removed it, in toto.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7367/1...5a1f76c48e.jpg

My sis told me to take it away, but do you think it can be
used for something useful?

On Sun, 30 Mar 2014 09:17:20 +0200, nestork wrote:

whomever did that work didn't know what he was doing.

Now that you clued me in to the fact that the underside of the
basket was *GLUED* to the sink, it all starts to make sense!

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3728/1...441550b3_b.jpg

I don't know WHO did it, but, my sister told me the last guy
there was the Sears Kenmore reverse osmosis installer.

Notwithstanding the fact the reverse osmosis system leaked long
ago so they disconnected it (but left it in place), what seems
to have happened is that installer *glued* the basket from the
underside.

If so, that explains the inability of the lock ring to turn.

It also explains the lack of caulking on the topside under the
basket flange.

It explains why I had to bang the strainer out from the underside.

And, it possibly explains why the tailpipe was upside down.

Sheeesh. You can't trust whomever did all that, just to save a buck!

Thanks for figuring out the enigma. I've been fixing things around
the home almost ever day, without needing to post lately, but, this
one had perplexed me until you pointed out the glue!

On Sun, 30 Mar 2014 09:17:20 +0200, nestork wrote:

http://tinyurl.com/n4c7n6h
Look at the image linked to above. It's incorrect because it doesn't
show the threads on the strainer basket or the threads on the lock nut.

Actually, it's also likely incorrect because, I've read, we should
probably not mix plastic nuts with metal threads ...

I'm not sure *why* but I had read that in my search for answers
before I had posted.

On Sun, 30 Mar 2014 09:17:20 +0200, nestork wrote:

Then, phone around to the plumbing wholesalers in your area and find out
which of them sell Kindred 1135 strainer baskets, & replace the junk

This brings up a good question, especially since the flange on the
sink basket that I put in is not wide enough to cover the rust, so,
I have to replace it anyway.
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3669/1...bd59d2dd_b.jpg

When I was at Home Depot, there was a $20 Glacial, $30 whatever, and
$40 Kohler sink basket.

I had wanted the Kohler, but, my wallet was recently stolen, so I had
no credit cards and only enough for the $20 strainer basket and parts
and tools.

The $40 Kohler was something like twice or three times as heavy as
the Glacial - and it seemed to be built better.

Would you equate the Kohler with that Kindred?

I'm not sure the model of the Kohler, but here's one guess from googling
right now for home depot and kohler kitchen strainer:
http://www.homedepot.com/s/kohler%25...n%2520strainer

PS: What do I look for in a "good" kitchen strainer, now that I know
I put a junky one in my sister's kitchen sink?

On Sun, 30 Mar 2014 21:12:32 -0400, Tekkie® wrote:

My advice about this time is to either get a new sister ...
In my next life!

On the black tube it looks like it goes to the water filter setup

That makes sense that the black tube went to the reverse osmosis
filtering setup, which I had removed because it wasn't working
anyway (it was partially disconnected at the time I got there).

I don't know if it even has all the pieces, so, if anyone knows
these things ... is this Kenmore still usable?
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7367/1...1f76c48e_b.jpg

On Sun, 30 Mar 2014 23:14:54 -0400, micky wrote:

So, I gave up on the square bushing, and re-used an old beveled nylon
bushing instead:
http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2850/1...1c116e5b_b.jpg

Why an old one when a new beveled bushing came with the pipe?

The package came with the following:
- One elbow pipe with only one threaded end
- Two plastic nuts
- One beveled washer
- One squared washer
http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2850/1...1c116e5b_b.jpg

I used the beveled washer for the non-threaded end of the pipe.
So that left me with only the squared washer.

Looking at the instructions, I'm supposed to use the squared washer.
But, nothing I did made any sense.

So, in exasperation (with my sister asking what was taking so long
to follow the simple instructions), I just re-used the old beveled
washer.

But, I really wish I understood how that squared washer was supposed
to work - because I couldn't figure it out!

Googling, I see almost everyone uses TWO beveled washers (one on
each end), so, it's confusing to me why the squared washer even
exists.

On Mon, 31 Mar 2014 07:56:47 -0400, Mr.E wrote:

The beveled bushing/washer is the pipe to pipe socket slip seal.

The shoulder bushing/washer is the basket to tailpiece/pipe seal. Flat
top to basket, small part into tailpiece.

My mistake.

I should have made it clear that the metal sink strainer already
came with its own shoulder bushing, so I already used a shoulder
bushing at the top of the plastic tailpipe.

The elbow came with another shoulder bushing, and only one
beveled bushing.

My dilemma was that I was essentially missing a beveled bushing,
but, if I followed the instructions, the entire pipe kept falling
apart in my hands.

So, there's something very wrong with this picture.
http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2844/1...84eea3d7_h.jpg

I just don't know how those instructions could possibly have been
followed by anyone.

Danny D. wrote:
On Sun, 30 Mar 2014 19:12:28 -0600, JAS wrote:

It is where the RO system drained when filtering the water to fill the tank.

Ah, that makes sense.

The Sears Kenmore reverse osmosis water filtration system under
the cabinet was partially disconnected, so I simply removed it, in toto.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7367/1...5a1f76c48e.jpg

My sis told me to take it away, but do you think it can be
used for something useful?

I doubt it. If you do not change the filters every 6 month or so you
have worse water than without. I do not know of anything it could be
used for other than what it was designed for.

In hindsight, the funny thing is that my sister kept telling me that
the guy who installed the Kenmore filtering system was far faster than
I was, when all I was doing was replacing the existing plumbing and he
was putting in an entire expensive filtering system in.

Yes, but that installation guy had already done that job hundreds of times before and already knew what he had to do just by looking under her sink.

This was your first kitchen sink strainer basket.

"Danny D." wrote:
In hindsight, the funny thing is that my sister kept telling me that
the guy who installed the Kenmore filtering system was far faster than
I was, when all I was doing was replacing the existing plumbing and he
was putting in an entire expensive filtering system in.

Hey, don't take this personally, but your sister sounds like a PITA -
unless she was good naturedly picking on you like family can do.

If she was serious about how long it was taking you to complete the job and
complaining that you can't follow simple instructions, I'd tell her to call
the Kenmore guy back. Make sure she reminds him to bring his glue.

On Mon, 31 Mar 2014 21:41:55 +0000 (UTC), DerbyDad03
wrote:

"Danny D." wrote:
In hindsight, the funny thing is that my sister kept telling me that
the guy who installed the Kenmore filtering system was far faster than
I was, when all I was doing was replacing the existing plumbing and he
was putting in an entire expensive filtering system in.

Hey, don't take this personally, but your sister sounds like a PITA -
unless she was good naturedly picking on you like family can do.

If she was serious about how long it was taking you to complete the job and
complaining that you can't follow simple instructions, I'd tell her to call
the Kenmore guy back. Make sure she reminds him to bring his glue.

Nothing personal but Danny's sister acted the same when he fixed a
toilet for her's.

Sounded to me, back them, he even paid for parts a material.

DerbyDad03 wrote:
"Danny D." wrote:
On Sun, 30 Mar 2014 13:13:32 +0200, nestork wrote:

Once you're finished using your Plumber's putty, use your finger to
wet the top surface of the putty in the tub with either corn oil

Thanks for that idea.

I used olive oil, as that's all I had.

BTW, what is the purpose of this swivel contraption?
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3717/1...baf3c454_b.jpg

My guess is a vent.

What do I win if I'm right?

Not just a vent , I think it's a vacuum break so the dishwasher doesn't
siphon from the sink . It looks like the DW is plumbed into the drain
downstream from the device - does the device have a one-way valve of some
kind inside ?
--
Snag

On Sun, 30 Mar 2014 01:10:32 +0000, Danny D. wrote:

What am I doing wrong?

Lessons learned:

0. Some repair people will *glue* a kitchen basket strainer on, and,
if they do, you will have to destroy it in order to remove it.

1. The reason *my* strainer ring was impossible to remove without
destroying it was that it was glued on (see above).

2. When buying a repair kit, don't assume all the parts are provided.
Specifically, buy an extra beveled washer!

3. Pay attention to the width of the lip of the replacement kitchen
strainer; it needs to be equal to or larger in width to the original.

4. Use plumbers putty (instead of glue) to waterproof the kitchen
strainer basket; putting an oil on top of the opened container of
plumber's putty should help preserve it for future use.

5. If at all possible, get a new sister if she continues to
complain about how long it takes you to do the job!

Danny D. posted for all of us...

And I know how to SNIP

5. If at all possible, get a new sister if she continues to
complain about how long it takes you to do the job!


I would move this to #1 in your case. I mean you aren't married to her so
you don't have to listen. Maybe you should reprogram the speed dials on her
phone and take your number out. Get her a subscription to Angie's list.
*ANYTHING*

--
Tekkie