I'm in my early twenties and I've already learned it's best, when it
comes to tools, to get the right tool, which will last you thirty years.

I don't want to buy more than one bench grinder.

I can find a bunch on Harbor Freight and at Sears and Home Depot, etc.,
but I don't know WHAT to look for.

Any suggestions?

I'm sure you'll ask WHAT I need to do with it. What I need right now it
so shape some Delrin and HDPE plastic but in the future, it would be used
for regular home use - whatever purpose that would be (metal, wood,
plastic).

Any pointers as to either WHERE to get the best price best bench grinder,
or what size or wheels to get? (Seems like that buffing wheel would be
useless but maybe it has a use; otherwise I'd just get two different grit
stones).

On 10/27/2010 10:14 PM, Mel Knight wrote:
I'm in my early twenties and I've already learned it's best, when it
comes to tools, to get the right tool, which will last you thirty years.

I don't want to buy more than one bench grinder.

I can find a bunch on Harbor Freight and at Sears and Home Depot, etc.,
but I don't know WHAT to look for.

Any suggestions?

I'm sure you'll ask WHAT I need to do with it. What I need right now it
so shape some Delrin and HDPE plastic but in the future, it would be used
for regular home use - whatever purpose that would be (metal, wood,
plastic).

Any pointers as to either WHERE to get the best price best bench grinder,
or what size or wheels to get? (Seems like that buffing wheel would be
useless but maybe it has a use; otherwise I'd just get two different grit
stones).

I don't know who makes the best grinder itself, but my advice to you is
to not mount it on a bench at all, but on a pedestal. Got one at HF on
sale a couple years ago for $30 but I think that I will replace the
vertical bit with some sprinkler pipe because it's a little wobbly, and
the clamp screws are some really cheezy bits that I'll have to replace
with 8.8 at the same time.

My point being, however, that a grinder is much more useful when you
aren't limited by a bench. even more so if you think you may be using
it for buffing. (the buffing wheels are used for stuff like polishing
stainless trim; something you may not have a need for unless you're,
say, restoring old cars...)

My personal bench grinder is a Delta brand one that I bought maybe 10-15
years ago at some big box store; I don't know if it's that great, but I
don't use it that often, either.

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

In article ,
Mel Knight wrote:

I'm in my early twenties and I've already learned it's best, when it
comes to tools, to get the right tool, which will last you thirty years.

I don't want to buy more than one bench grinder.

I can find a bunch on Harbor Freight and at Sears and Home Depot, etc.,
but I don't know WHAT to look for.



Paragraph three completely contradicts paragraph one. I think Baldor
still makes the best grinders.

Agree that pedestal mounting offers the best access. You may not want to
buy more than one, but you might be better off with two or three at the
same time, with different wheels on them.

On Wed, 27 Oct 2010 19:54:40 -0700, Smitty Two wrote:

I think Baldor still makes the best grinders.

At http://www.baldor.com, I see Baldor has 6, 7, 10, 12, and 14-inch
wheels.

What size wheel do most people recommend for the next twenty years' worth
of occasional grinding at home?

The speed seems to vary from 1500, 1800, 3000, and 3600 rpm; should the
speed I opt for be much of a concern to me?

And the horsepower seems to vary from 1/2, 1/3, 1 1/2, 2, 3, 5, and 7 1/2
HP (although most of the 110 volt ones seem to be in the 1/2 to 3/4 HP
range). Is 1/2HP reasonable for a shop grinder?

Lastly, I will most likely opt for single-phase 110 volts (because I
don't know if I'll always have dual-phase 220 available) but is there any
really good reason for 220 volts (which I do currently have available)
for "normal" shop grinder use?

On Wed, 27 Oct 2010 22:25:52 -0400, Nate Nagel wrote:

(the buffing wheels are used for stuff like polishing
stainless trim; something you may not have a need for unless you're,
say, restoring old cars...)

I previously bought the package of something like 200 assorted bits for
my dremel tool and it seems like almost 199 of the bits in that package
are those white cotton useless buffing wheels!).

Since I don't think I'll need the buffing wheel, may I ask what GRIT you
guys go for when you buy a wheel?

And, do you think it's a good idea to get a combination belt sander
(maybe 2 inches wide?) with the grinder instead of the buffing wheel?

On 10/27/2010 9:21 PM Mel Knight spake thus:

I'll just answer these two:

And the horsepower seems to vary from 1/2, 1/3, 1 1/2, 2, 3, 5, and 7 1/2
HP (although most of the 110 volt ones seem to be in the 1/2 to 3/4 HP
range). Is 1/2HP reasonable for a shop grinder?

Yes. Unless you set up a welding shop and need to grind really big
pieces of metal, 1/2 horse is *plenty*. 1/4 would work fine.

Lastly, I will most likely opt for single-phase 110 volts (because I
don't know if I'll always have dual-phase 220 available) but is there any
really good reason for 220 volts (which I do currently have available)
for "normal" shop grinder use?

Forget three-phase (and it's generally referred to as 240 volts nominal,
twice 120). Regular old 120 is fine.


--
The fashion in killing has an insouciant, flirty style this spring,
with the flaunting of well-defined muscle, wrapped in flags.

- Comment from an article on Antiwar.com (http://antiwar.com)

On Thu, 28 Oct 2010 04:21:11 +0000 (UTC), Mel Knight
wrote:

On Wed, 27 Oct 2010 19:54:40 -0700, Smitty Two wrote:

I think Baldor still makes the best grinders.

At http://www.baldor.com, I see Baldor has 6, 7, 10, 12, and 14-inch
wheels.

What size wheel do most people recommend for the next twenty years' worth
of occasional grinding at home?

The speed seems to vary from 1500, 1800, 3000, and 3600 rpm; should the
speed I opt for be much of a concern to me?

And the horsepower seems to vary from 1/2, 1/3, 1 1/2, 2, 3, 5, and 7 1/2
HP (although most of the 110 volt ones seem to be in the 1/2 to 3/4 HP
range). Is 1/2HP reasonable for a shop grinder?

Lastly, I will most likely opt for single-phase 110 volts (because I
don't know if I'll always have dual-phase 220 available) but is there any
really good reason for 220 volts (which I do currently have available)
for "normal" shop grinder use?


Just get a cheap 110v 1/2 hp grinder if you're using it for occasional
home use.
6" wheels will do fine.
I prefer a flex light, but don't have one on my current grinder.
I prefer a quench "bucket" but don't have one on my current grinder.
You can rig a light if you need it, and get a container of water for
quenching.
Make sure it has decent tool rests.

Don't bother with a pedestal if you have 5-6' feet on each side of the
grinder at its height.. Just takes up floor space.
In my last house I put a shelf on a brick wall to hold the grinder.
Now I have one lag screwed on the corner of a workbench.
Last was 8", now I have a 6".
No difference for what I do with it.
I use it mostly for sharpening shovels, mower blades and chisels.
But it serves other purposes once in a while.
Great for dressing screwdrivers, deburring, etc.
I keep coarse and fine wheels on it.

Somebody said have 2 grinders, and that's not a bad idea if you use a
grinder a lot.
A grinder wire wheel comes in real handy, but I've taken to using a
drill wire wheel when I need wire.
Mostly because I don't want to change wheels.
I'd never put wood or soft metal on a grinder wheel - anymore.
But if you're going to clog up the wheel, or wear it down unevenly,
maybe get yourself a dressing tool.
Might be cheaper to just buy a new wheel though.
Only wheel dresser I had I got free.

You don't want to "overbuy" on a grinder for home use.
Because it just doesn't get used much.

--Vic

On Thu, 28 Oct 2010 02:14:15 +0000 (UTC), Mel Knight
wrote:

I'm in my early twenties and I've already learned it's best, when it
comes to tools, to get the right tool, which will last you thirty years.

I don't want to buy more than one bench grinder.

I can find a bunch on Harbor Freight and at Sears and Home Depot, etc.,
but I don't know WHAT to look for.

Any suggestions?

I'm sure you'll ask WHAT I need to do with it. What I need right now it
so shape some Delrin and HDPE plastic but in the future, it would be used
for regular home use - whatever purpose that would be (metal, wood,
plastic).

Any pointers as to either WHERE to get the best price best bench grinder,
or what size or wheels to get? (Seems like that buffing wheel would be
useless but maybe it has a use; otherwise I'd just get two different grit
stones).

The de-industrialization of the U.S. has put a lot of pedestal
grinders out of work. You may pick up a heavy duty used one
at places like this:


http://www.maynards.com/index.php?se..._type=template

On Thu, 28 Oct 2010 00:49:51 -0500, Vic Smith wrote:

A grinder wire wheel comes in real handy, but I've taken to using a
drill wire wheel when I need wire.

I have a drill wire wheel but I've never used it. I guess if I polished
or cleaned metal, it could be useful. I can't think of any other use for
the wire brush; so I wasn't thinking of putting one on the grinder.

What's a good "grit" for household use for a grinding wheel?

I'd never put wood or soft metal on a grinder wheel - anymore.

In my searches, I saw multi-tool combination grinders with belt sanders
(1", 2", and 4" belts) which seem ideal for wood. I generally avoid a
tool that tries to do too much because it doesn't do any job well; but
for a grinder, which I admit, is used probably once a month for a few
minutes, maybe a combination tool is usable.

Do people recommend these combination tools?
- Wheel grinder + belt sander (+ some even have disc sanders with miter
trays).

The combination tool I'm looking at currently has this spec:
- Wheel = 8" x 1 5/8", 60 grit medium
- Belt = 4" x 48" (or 36"), 5300 SFM
- Motor = 3/4 HP, 115/230Volts, 3450 RPM

Do folks recommend combination tools?
What's a good grit if you have only one grinding wheel?

"Vic Smith" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 28 Oct 2010 04:21:11 +0000 (UTC), Mel Knight
wrote:

On Wed, 27 Oct 2010 19:54:40 -0700, Smitty Two wrote:

I think Baldor still makes the best grinders.

At http://www.baldor.com, I see Baldor has 6, 7, 10, 12, and 14-inch
wheels.

What size wheel do most people recommend for the next twenty years' worth
of occasional grinding at home?

The speed seems to vary from 1500, 1800, 3000, and 3600 rpm; should the
speed I opt for be much of a concern to me?

And the horsepower seems to vary from 1/2, 1/3, 1 1/2, 2, 3, 5, and 7 1/2
HP (although most of the 110 volt ones seem to be in the 1/2 to 3/4 HP
range). Is 1/2HP reasonable for a shop grinder?

Lastly, I will most likely opt for single-phase 110 volts (because I
don't know if I'll always have dual-phase 220 available) but is there any
really good reason for 220 volts (which I do currently have available)
for "normal" shop grinder use?


Just get a cheap 110v 1/2 hp grinder if you're using it for occasional
home use.
6" wheels will do fine.
I prefer a flex light, but don't have one on my current grinder.
I prefer a quench "bucket" but don't have one on my current grinder.
You can rig a light if you need it, and get a container of water for
quenching.
Make sure it has decent tool rests.

Don't bother with a pedestal if you have 5-6' feet on each side of the
grinder at its height.. Just takes up floor space.
In my last house I put a shelf on a brick wall to hold the grinder.
Now I have one lag screwed on the corner of a workbench.
Last was 8", now I have a 6".
No difference for what I do with it.
I use it mostly for sharpening shovels, mower blades and chisels.
But it serves other purposes once in a while.
Great for dressing screwdrivers, deburring, etc.
I keep coarse and fine wheels on it.

Somebody said have 2 grinders, and that's not a bad idea if you use a
grinder a lot.
A grinder wire wheel comes in real handy, but I've taken to using a
drill wire wheel when I need wire.
Mostly because I don't want to change wheels.
I'd never put wood or soft metal on a grinder wheel - anymore.
But if you're going to clog up the wheel, or wear it down unevenly,
maybe get yourself a dressing tool.
Might be cheaper to just buy a new wheel though.
Only wheel dresser I had I got free.

You don't want to "overbuy" on a grinder for home use.
Because it just doesn't get used much.

Good response from Vic.

Cupla things, tho.

A pedestal grinder is just a bench grinder on its own stand.
What hasn't been mentioned is the VIBRATION, which is due to wheels and
their bushings, NOT the grinder itself, even a crappy grinder.
And once these goddamm wheels go out of balance, it's difficult to fix.
This vibration can shake every tool off the bench onto the floor, unless
the bench is VERY heavy, solid, and even THEN it's very disconcerting and
annoying.

Now, the smaller the grinder, the less of an issue this is, but it is almost
NEVER a non-issue.

Heh, and the pedestals are consderably more expensive than the grinder
itself.
But, my best pedestal I made myself, out of a good-sized plate (mebbe 1/4" x
18 x 14 or sumpn), that I can actually *step* on, for stabilization. The
vertical was just angle iron, the top a smaller plate, with a gusset or two.
Put rubber/cork underneath.

If you can't weld this, get plumbing pipe and plumbing flanges, screwed to a
good section of 3/4 ply.
Pedestals have the advantage of being movable, for awkward stuff, as well.

I take alladat **** off grinders: lights, which never work anyway, tool
rests, guards -- which I know many will caution against.

If you want accurate sharpening, get a slow-rpm "wet wheel", $30 from
sears. THIS can stay on a bench, is really handy for small drill bits,
scissors, things that a bench grinder would just eat up.

Get a separate goose-neck lite, or even a cheap magnifying lamp, from
Staples. Have an extra switch handy, cuz the operative word is CHEAP, from
effing staples.

I use just a coarse wheel, for most stuff, altho I have three grinders. If
your stuff is going to be drill bits, screwdriver tips, lite stuff, get a
fine or med wheel, but if you just want to remove material, ****ty welds,
etc, coarse is good.
I use a coarse wheel on screwdriver tips as well, often using the side of
the wheel for lite stuff, which most will caution against, but which is OK
imo for very lite stuff.

Vic's right about wire wheels -- great to have. I bought three coarse wire
wheels, ganged them on one arbor for more area. Sears, of course, and not
cheap.

You can also mount two diff. grit wheels on the same arbor.

8" is about the biggest grinder you will find. Bigger than that will be $$,
as will the wheels. Definitely put an 8" on a pedestal. rpms and 110V are
standard, not much choice there.

A combo belt sander is a good idea, and generally IS bench mounted. Not a
"replacement" for buffing wheels, per se, but certainly will give more
uniform finishes over wider areas, AND is more versatile, material-wise.
Get a 4", Sears again. Or HF, if you feel like gambling.

Like outlets, most shops can't have enough grinders. But one is certainly
a start.

Oh, the 30 year thing.... forget about dat. Just get through the day.

Here's an option:
You may be able to get away with a benchtop drill press (some are pretty
substantial, with 5/8 chucks), and mount a grinding wheel on an arbor.
Ditto wire wheels.
You can also buy a wide variety of these with integral shafts, basically
like super-big dremel stuff.

You could then have a whole selection of quickly changeable wheels, AND with
variable rpm!
You could even get the wheel to spin like a trad'l bench grinder by just
tipping over the drill press.
--
EA




--Vic

On Wed, 27 Oct 2010 22:25:03 -0700, David Nebenzahl wrote:

Forget three-phase (and it's generally referred to as 240 volts nominal,
twice 120). Regular old 120 is fine.

Thanks. I'm going to go with 120volts.

One thing confuses me about the "functional" difference of a motor under
120 versus 220 volts.

When I look at the specs for dual-voltage single-phase motors, the
horsepower is the same for both voltages. So is the RPM. The "only" thing
in the specs that's different is the current halves.

What's the "effective" difference in function of a dual-voltage grinder
if it's set up at 115 versus 220? Anything meaningful?

"Mel Knight" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 28 Oct 2010 00:49:51 -0500, Vic Smith wrote:

A grinder wire wheel comes in real handy, but I've taken to using a
drill wire wheel when I need wire.

I have a drill wire wheel but I've never used it. I guess if I polished
or cleaned metal, it could be useful. I can't think of any other use for
the wire brush; so I wasn't thinking of putting one on the grinder.

What's a good "grit" for household use for a grinding wheel?

I'd never put wood or soft metal on a grinder wheel - anymore.

In my searches, I saw multi-tool combination grinders with belt sanders
(1", 2", and 4" belts) which seem ideal for wood. I generally avoid a
tool that tries to do too much because it doesn't do any job well; but
for a grinder, which I admit, is used probably once a month for a few
minutes, maybe a combination tool is usable.

Do people recommend these combination tools?
- Wheel grinder + belt sander (+ some even have disc sanders with miter
trays).

The combination tool I'm looking at currently has this spec:
- Wheel = 8" x 1 5/8", 60 grit medium
- Belt = 4" x 48" (or 36"), 5300 SFM
- Motor = 3/4 HP, 115/230Volts, 3450 RPM

Sounds perty neat. Got a link?
I know the sanders with the side sanding wheel/miter ditty, but I've never
seen one with a sep. grinding wheel.
Seems like it might be great for you.


Do folks recommend combination tools?
What's a good grit if you have only one grinding wheel?

Why, medium, of course.
--
EA

Mel Knight wrote:
....

What's the "effective" difference in function of a dual-voltage grinder
if it's set up at 115 versus 220? Anything meaningful?
....
Only meaningful difference is that the supply current is halved as said.
Makes supply voltage drop/losses smaller and avoids potential for
circuit overload/trip on smaller (15A) circuits.

Other than that, the difference is inconsequential.

--

"Mel Knight" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 27 Oct 2010 22:25:03 -0700, David Nebenzahl wrote:

Forget three-phase (and it's generally referred to as 240 volts nominal,
twice 120). Regular old 120 is fine.

Thanks. I'm going to go with 120volts.

One thing confuses me about the "functional" difference of a motor under
120 versus 220 volts.

When I look at the specs for dual-voltage single-phase motors, the
horsepower is the same for both voltages. So is the RPM. The "only" thing
in the specs that's different is the current halves.

What's the "effective" difference in function of a dual-voltage grinder
if it's set up at 115 versus 220? Anything meaningful?

220 V has slightly greater efficiency, less start up draw, and 220
inherently "balances" the load across the hot service wires entering the
house, spares the neutral load. A motor wired for 220 might last a little
longer, ito motor windings.
The greater efficiency at 220V also means the motor should run a little
cooler, esp. in multiple start/stop situations.

Becomes more important as motor size increases, but for what you are talking
about, is pretty much moot.

Also, I suspect any grinder wired for 220 will be much higher bucks, as you
start entering the "industrial" class.
--
EA

On Thu, 28 Oct 2010 10:07:38 -0400, Existential Angst wrote:

Sounds perty neat. Got a link?
I know the sanders with the side sanding wheel/miter ditty, but I've
never seen one with a sep. grinding wheel.
Seems like it might be great for you.

It's a JET Tools bench grinder & belt sander, Model 2685-0702, $500

On 2010-10-28, Mel Knight wrote:
I'm in my early twenties and I've already learned it's best, when it
comes to tools, to get the right tool, which will last you thirty years.

Baldor


nb

On 2010-10-28, notbob wrote:

Baldor

Better yet, buy a Baldor 3" vert belt sander. You'll use it more and
on more different applications. We called ours the Mexican milling
machine. If you still need a grinder for some obscure reason, jes get
a cheapy from HF. It can gather cobwebs while you work the crap outta
the belt sander.

nb

"notbob" wrote in message
...
On 2010-10-28, notbob wrote:

Baldor

Better yet, buy a Baldor 3" vert belt sander. You'll use it more and
on more different applications. We called ours the Mexican milling
machine. If you still need a grinder for some obscure reason, jes get
a cheapy from HF. It can gather cobwebs while you work the crap outta
the belt sander.

Obscure reason??!!

I agree you can do a lot of nice stuff on a belt, but an 8" coarse wheel on
a pedestal lets you do the **** work, and spare the belt -- grinding down
screw heads, welds, chamfering 1/8 HRS, etc.

I've had the same 8" coarse wheel for over 10 years! I go through belts
like paper towels.

Baldor is too high-end for the OP, unless he really is insistent on that 30
years thing.

--
EA


nb

In article ,
Mel Knight wrote:

On Wed, 27 Oct 2010 19:54:40 -0700, Smitty Two wrote:

I think Baldor still makes the best grinders.

At http://www.baldor.com, I see Baldor has 6, 7, 10, 12, and 14-inch
wheels.

What size wheel do most people recommend for the next twenty years' worth
of occasional grinding at home?

The speed seems to vary from 1500, 1800, 3000, and 3600 rpm; should the
speed I opt for be much of a concern to me?

And the horsepower seems to vary from 1/2, 1/3, 1 1/2, 2, 3, 5, and 7 1/2
HP (although most of the 110 volt ones seem to be in the 1/2 to 3/4 HP
range). Is 1/2HP reasonable for a shop grinder?

Lastly, I will most likely opt for single-phase 110 volts (because I
don't know if I'll always have dual-phase 220 available) but is there any
really good reason for 220 volts (which I do currently have available)
for "normal" shop grinder use?

120V, 6", 1800 RPM, and 1/2 h.p. will get you through 99% of anything.

Wheel choices? It really depends on what you're going to use it for. You
may not have used a wire wheel on your hand-held drill, but once you
have one mounted on a bench grinder you might find all sorts of uses for
it.

One grinder with a wire wheel on one side and a Scotch Brite buffing
wheel on the other side. Actually, for this one, a buffing unit is
better than a grinder. It has longer spindles and less guard. Definite
advantage to pedestal on that one.

Another grinder with a coarse wheel on one side and a fine wheel on the
other. In all these years, I've never paid attention the actual grit
number, just go by feel.

If you're going to venture into machining, another grinder with a tool
dressing wheel is essential.

The cotton rag things are for polishing and need to be loaded up with
rouge. Very useful if you need polished parts.

A 1" wide bench-mounted belt sander is a great addition to the grinding
room. The kind that has a section with a backing plate and an open
section for free form use.

Someone mentioned quench containers, yes, you need them. Built in to any
decent machine or stand. It's OK for you to lose your temper, but it's
not good for steel.

And don't be loading up your grinders with aluminum!

"Vic Smith" wrote

You don't want to "overbuy" on a grinder for home use.
Because it just doesn't get used much.

--Vic

The other day, I had to make a 4" wide scraper to weld on to an SDS bit for
floor scraping of old grout. It was 3/8" x 2" flat bar. I adjusted the
rest, and went to grinding an edge. Put it right in the wheel and came up
with a nice looking hollow ground effect.

I COULD NOT CHOKE DOWN THE GRINDER. It is a two wheel Skil, an old one.
First grinder I have used in a very long time that I could not make stop by
pushing metal in there.

I say don't underbuy and have some wimpy POS that won't do that occasional
job where nothing else will work. Plus burning it up from overloading.

Steve

Heart surgery pending?
Read up and prepare.
Learn how to care for a friend.
http://cabgbypasssurgery.com

I have a drill wire wheel but I've never used it. I guess if I
polished
or cleaned metal, it could be useful. I can't think of any other use
for
the wire brush; so I wasn't thinking of putting one on the grinder.

CY: As a locksmith, I use the bench grinder wire wheel for taking
burrs off cut keys. I've also found it handy for taking rust off of
tools, etc.

What's a good "grit" for household use for a grinding wheel?

CY: I don't know the numbers, but fine grit works well for most
things. My grinder is from BJ's Wholesale club, from about 1985. I'd
have to look see if I can tell what brand it is. I think it is 1/3 HP.
I use it for burrs on keys, and sharpening t hings like drill bits.

I'd never put wood or soft metal on a grinder wheel - anymore.

CY: Naah, wood is for wood shaping equipment. Grinders also don't do
soft metal. Iron, or steel only please.

In my searches, I saw multi-tool combination grinders with belt
sanders
(1", 2", and 4" belts) which seem ideal for wood. I generally avoid a
tool that tries to do too much because it doesn't do any job well; but
for a grinder, which I admit, is used probably once a month for a few
minutes, maybe a combination tool is usable.

CY: I've never had a belt sander. I'm with you, keep tools simple.

Do people recommend these combination tools?
- Wheel grinder + belt sander (+ some even have disc sanders with
miter
trays).

The combination tool I'm looking at currently has this spec:
- Wheel = 8" x 1 5/8", 60 grit medium
- Belt = 4" x 48" (or 36"), 5300 SFM
- Motor = 3/4 HP, 115/230Volts, 3450 RPM

Do folks recommend combination tools?
What's a good grit if you have only one grinding wheel?

CY: That may work well for you. Since you mention doing wood and
plastic. 3/4 is plenty of HP for most jobs. I'd go with the 115 volt
model, only about 600 watts or so.

They use the same watts (you pay for watts). With the 220 VAC, you can
run smaller wire to power the unit. Half the amps.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Mel Knight" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 27 Oct 2010 22:25:03 -0700, David Nebenzahl wrote:

Forget three-phase (and it's generally referred to as 240 volts
nominal,
twice 120). Regular old 120 is fine.

Thanks. I'm going to go with 120volts.

One thing confuses me about the "functional" difference of a motor
under
120 versus 220 volts.

When I look at the specs for dual-voltage single-phase motors, the
horsepower is the same for both voltages. So is the RPM. The "only"
thing
in the specs that's different is the current halves.

What's the "effective" difference in function of a dual-voltage
grinder
if it's set up at 115 versus 220? Anything meaningful?

notbob wrote:

On 2010-10-28, notbob wrote:

Baldor

Better yet, buy a Baldor 3" vert belt sander. You'll use it more and
on more different applications. We called ours the Mexican milling
machine. If you still need a grinder for some obscure reason, jes get
a cheapy from HF. It can gather cobwebs while you work the crap outta
the belt sander.


If the OP doesn't already have a good platform sander- belt or disc-
I'd probably go with NB on this one. Buy a good used sander-- and
the best belts you can find.

'mexican milling machine, indeed- a good coarse belt can cut 2x mild
steel angle iron in no time.

And I'm with Steve on not skimping on good tools- especially while
you're in your 20s. Lots of good used tools out there if you shop
around a bit. Get a beast that 40 years from now your grand kids
will be drooling over.

Not because you'll wear it out- but because you can do things to and
with it that you can't do with a cheap grinder or sander.

Jim

everything else snipped except for my self-important opinion

I currently have a nice Skil two wheel grinder, which I can not choke down
as much as I have tried. It has a wire wheel on one end, and a grinding
stone on the other.

I suppose that a guy could get by with ONE, but I'm watching for another,
and will put a various combination of grits on there.

I currently have six angle grinders. Five are set up, one's a spare. When
I go to do something, I can grab a grinder, stringer wire wheel, wire cup,
paddle sander, or flat sander, and not have to stop and change things,
starting with findin the parts to change it all over. I have done metal
work for a long time, and I really like that convenience.

For bench grinders, I think that having two would provide the same
convenience.

Steve

Heart surgery pending?
Read up and prepare.
Learn how to care for a friend.
http://cabgbypasssurgery.com

On 2010-10-28, Jim Elbrecht wrote:

'mexican milling machine, indeed- a good coarse belt can cut 2x mild
steel angle iron in no time.

Also, alum, brass, copper, and plastic. Try that on a stone wheel. I
was a R&D machinist for 8 yrs in shops with everything. The only
thing we used our wheel grinders for was touching up carbide lathe
bits on a green wheel or cutting a chip breaker groove in a lathe bit
so we wouldn't get long strands of SS coming off 20" flange plates.
In fact, if you haven't got a green wheel, a belt will do in a pinch.
Even hand sharpening a drill bit is easier on a belt sander. That
Baldor was damn near the most used machine in the shop. I won't go
into the lawsuit my buddy faced when he let a buddy use his commercial
grade pedestal grinder and the wheel shattered and took out half the guy's
face.

The OP and my detractor are certainly free to buy anything they like.
I know what I'd buy, right after a drill press, and it sure wouldn't
be a bench grinder.

nb

On 10/28/2010 7:03 AM Mel Knight spake thus:

On Wed, 27 Oct 2010 22:25:03 -0700, David Nebenzahl wrote:

Forget three-phase (and it's generally referred to as 240 volts nominal,
twice 120). Regular old 120 is fine.

Thanks. I'm going to go with 120volts.

One thing confuses me about the "functional" difference of a motor under
120 versus 220 volts.

When I look at the specs for dual-voltage single-phase motors, the
horsepower is the same for both voltages. So is the RPM. The "only" thing
in the specs that's different is the current halves.

What's the "effective" difference in function of a dual-voltage grinder
if it's set up at 115 versus 220? Anything meaningful?

First of all, think 120 and 240. Still dunno why folks use "220".

But to answer your question, there's effectively no difference, since
it's such a small load. If you were talking about a 1-2 horse motor,
then it would be better to run it on 240 instead of 120 (less I^2R
losses at higher voltage). But for your little grinder motor? Don't
sweat it.


--
The fashion in killing has an insouciant, flirty style this spring,
with the flaunting of well-defined muscle, wrapped in flags.

- Comment from an article on Antiwar.com (http://antiwar.com)

On Oct 27, 10:14*pm, Mel Knight wrote:
I'm in my early twenties and I've already learned it's best, when it
comes to tools, to get the right tool, which will last you thirty years.

I don't want to buy more than one bench grinder.

I can find a bunch on Harbor Freight and at Sears and Home Depot, etc.,
but I don't know WHAT to look for.

Any suggestions?

I'm sure you'll ask WHAT I need to do with it. What I need right now it
so shape some Delrin and HDPE plastic but in the future, it would be used
for regular home use - whatever purpose that would be (metal, wood,
plastic).

Any pointers as to either WHERE to get the best price best bench grinder,
or what size or wheels to get? (Seems like that buffing wheel would be
useless but maybe it has a use; otherwise I'd just get two different grit
stones).

I hear Craftsman isnt as good as it used to be but mine is about 30
years old. When I first got it I didnt have much room in my storage
shed/ shop for a pedistal or any kind of permanent mount so I bolted
it to a piece of plywood a little larger than the base. On the bottom
of the plywood I bolted a 2 X 2 inch piece of square tubular steel.
When I get ready to use it I clamp it in my vice via the piece of
square tubing. Have since moved to better digs with 3 car garage for a
shop but still use it the same way.

Jimmie

Jimmie

On 10/28/2010 10:03 AM, Mel Knight wrote:
On Wed, 27 Oct 2010 22:25:03 -0700, David Nebenzahl wrote:

Forget three-phase (and it's generally referred to as 240 volts nominal,
twice 120). Regular old 120 is fine.

Thanks. I'm going to go with 120volts.

One thing confuses me about the "functional" difference of a motor under
120 versus 220 volts.

When I look at the specs for dual-voltage single-phase motors, the
horsepower is the same for both voltages. So is the RPM. The "only" thing
in the specs that's different is the current halves.

What's the "effective" difference in function of a dual-voltage grinder
if it's set up at 115 versus 220? Anything meaningful?


Nothing. 240V is useful if you need lots of power; that is, more than
you can get out of a typical 15A or 20A 120V circuit.

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

On 2010-10-28, Nate Nagel wrote:

Nothing. 240V is useful if you need lots of power; that is, more than
you can get out of a typical 15A or 20A 120V circuit.

Like during start up. I had a 9.5CFM air compressor wired for 240.
It also included instruction for rewiring the swith/motor for 120,
which on one occasion had to do. Ran fine, but could barely get past
a cold oil start-up. Always made it, eventually, but was iffy a
couple times. Hadda turn on/off/on/off couple times to get it past
start-up. Many 15A motors are like that. Run ok, but draw twice the
max amperage to get started. That the reason for slow blow fuses.

nb

On 10/28/2010 08:52 PM, notbob wrote:
On 2010-10-28, Nate wrote:

Nothing. 240V is useful if you need lots of power; that is, more than
you can get out of a typical 15A or 20A 120V circuit.

Like during start up. I had a 9.5CFM air compressor wired for 240.
It also included instruction for rewiring the swith/motor for 120,
which on one occasion had to do. Ran fine, but could barely get past
a cold oil start-up. Always made it, eventually, but was iffy a
couple times. Hadda turn on/off/on/off couple times to get it past
start-up. Many 15A motors are like that. Run ok, but draw twice the
max amperage to get started. That the reason for slow blow fuses.

nb

What these "fuses" you speak of?

seriously, they seem to have fallen out of favor at least everywhere
I've lived around the early 70's. I know my parents' first house was
built around 1972ish and it had a fuse box and I remember my dad
complaining about it; he thought that it was "cheap" on the part of the
builders that they didn't put in a breaker box.

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

On 2010-10-29, Nate Nagel wrote:

What these "fuses" you speak of?

OK, OK, so I'm dating myself. Yes, I meant breakers. A senior
moment.

nb

On 10/27/2010 11:21 PM, Mel Knight wrote:


Lastly, I will most likely opt for single-phase 110 volts (because I
don't know if I'll always have dual-phase 220 available) but is there any
really good reason for 220 volts (which I do currently have available)
for "normal" shop grinder use?




What is "dual-phase 220" ?

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

On Fri, 29 Oct 2010 22:58:12 -0500, Steve Barker
wrote:

On 10/27/2010 11:21 PM, Mel Knight wrote:


Lastly, I will most likely opt for single-phase 110 volts (because I
don't know if I'll always have dual-phase 220 available) but is there any
really good reason for 220 volts (which I do currently have available)
for "normal" shop grinder use?




What is "dual-phase 220" ?

Otherwise know as "split-phase 240".