"Vic Smith" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 28 Oct 2010 04:21:11 +0000 (UTC), Mel Knight
wrote:
On Wed, 27 Oct 2010 19:54:40 -0700, Smitty Two wrote:
I think Baldor still makes the best grinders.
At http://www.baldor.com, I see Baldor has 6, 7, 10, 12, and 14-inch
wheels.
What size wheel do most people recommend for the next twenty years' worth
of occasional grinding at home?
The speed seems to vary from 1500, 1800, 3000, and 3600 rpm; should the
speed I opt for be much of a concern to me?
And the horsepower seems to vary from 1/2, 1/3, 1 1/2, 2, 3, 5, and 7 1/2
HP (although most of the 110 volt ones seem to be in the 1/2 to 3/4 HP
range). Is 1/2HP reasonable for a shop grinder?
Lastly, I will most likely opt for single-phase 110 volts (because I
don't know if I'll always have dual-phase 220 available) but is there any
really good reason for 220 volts (which I do currently have available)
for "normal" shop grinder use?
Just get a cheap 110v 1/2 hp grinder if you're using it for occasional
home use.
6" wheels will do fine.
I prefer a flex light, but don't have one on my current grinder.
I prefer a quench "bucket" but don't have one on my current grinder.
You can rig a light if you need it, and get a container of water for
quenching.
Make sure it has decent tool rests.
Don't bother with a pedestal if you have 5-6' feet on each side of the
grinder at its height.. Just takes up floor space.
In my last house I put a shelf on a brick wall to hold the grinder.
Now I have one lag screwed on the corner of a workbench.
Last was 8", now I have a 6".
No difference for what I do with it.
I use it mostly for sharpening shovels, mower blades and chisels.
But it serves other purposes once in a while.
Great for dressing screwdrivers, deburring, etc.
I keep coarse and fine wheels on it.
Somebody said have 2 grinders, and that's not a bad idea if you use a
grinder a lot.
A grinder wire wheel comes in real handy, but I've taken to using a
drill wire wheel when I need wire.
Mostly because I don't want to change wheels.
I'd never put wood or soft metal on a grinder wheel - anymore.
But if you're going to clog up the wheel, or wear it down unevenly,
maybe get yourself a dressing tool.
Might be cheaper to just buy a new wheel though.
Only wheel dresser I had I got free.
You don't want to "overbuy" on a grinder for home use.
Because it just doesn't get used much.
Good response from Vic.
Cupla things, tho.
A pedestal grinder is just a bench grinder on its own stand.
What hasn't been mentioned is the VIBRATION, which is due to wheels and
their bushings, NOT the grinder itself, even a crappy grinder.
And once these goddamm wheels go out of balance, it's difficult to fix.
This vibration can shake every tool off the bench onto the floor, unless
the bench is VERY heavy, solid, and even THEN it's very disconcerting and
annoying.
Now, the smaller the grinder, the less of an issue this is, but it is almost
NEVER a non-issue.
Heh, and the pedestals are consderably more expensive than the grinder
itself.
But, my best pedestal I made myself, out of a good-sized plate (mebbe 1/4" x
18 x 14 or sumpn), that I can actually *step* on, for stabilization. The
vertical was just angle iron, the top a smaller plate, with a gusset or two.
Put rubber/cork underneath.
If you can't weld this, get plumbing pipe and plumbing flanges, screwed to a
good section of 3/4 ply.
Pedestals have the advantage of being movable, for awkward stuff, as well.
I take alladat **** off grinders: lights, which never work anyway, tool
rests, guards -- which I know many will caution against.
If you want accurate sharpening, get a slow-rpm "wet wheel", $30 from
sears. THIS can stay on a bench, is really handy for small drill bits,
scissors, things that a bench grinder would just eat up.
Get a separate goose-neck lite, or even a cheap magnifying lamp, from
Staples. Have an extra switch handy, cuz the operative word is CHEAP, from
effing staples.
I use just a coarse wheel, for most stuff, altho I have three grinders. If
your stuff is going to be drill bits, screwdriver tips, lite stuff, get a
fine or med wheel, but if you just want to remove material, ****ty welds,
etc, coarse is good.
I use a coarse wheel on screwdriver tips as well, often using the side of
the wheel for lite stuff, which most will caution against, but which is OK
imo for very lite stuff.
Vic's right about wire wheels -- great to have. I bought three coarse wire
wheels, ganged them on one arbor for more area. Sears, of course, and not
cheap.
You can also mount two diff. grit wheels on the same arbor.
8" is about the biggest grinder you will find. Bigger than that will be $$,
as will the wheels. Definitely put an 8" on a pedestal. rpms and 110V are
standard, not much choice there.
A combo belt sander is a good idea, and generally IS bench mounted. Not a
"replacement" for buffing wheels, per se, but certainly will give more
uniform finishes over wider areas, AND is more versatile, material-wise.
Get a 4", Sears again. Or HF, if you feel like gambling.
Like outlets, most shops can't have enough grinders. But one is certainly
a start.
Oh, the 30 year thing.... forget about dat. Just get through the day.
Here's an option:
You may be able to get away with a benchtop drill press (some are pretty
substantial, with 5/8 chucks), and mount a grinding wheel on an arbor.
Ditto wire wheels.
You can also buy a wide variety of these with integral shafts, basically
like super-big dremel stuff.
You could then have a whole selection of quickly changeable wheels, AND with
variable rpm!
You could even get the wheel to spin like a trad'l bench grinder by just
tipping over the drill press.
--
EA
--Vic