Electronics Repair (sci.electronics.repair) Discussion of repairing electronic equipment. Topics include requests for assistance, where to obtain servicing information and parts, techniques for diagnosis and repair, and annecdotes about success, failures and problems.

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Default speaker freq response

I purchased an in-dash stereo for my pick-up truck, and some cheap speakers.
The stereo has bass and treble adjustment but not midrange. I have since
replaced the speakers. The new ones do better, and sound better, but still
have the same problem. High frequencies have too much attenuation. Reducing
treble all the way will not kill the cymbals and S sounds. With the new
speakers, if I turn the bass up very much, I get incredible deep bass, but
still too much high frequency.

I thought I would buy some inductors at Radio Shack and put in line with the
speakers. From what I remember they are measured in henrys. But, I need so
little effect I may be better off making small wire coils, instead.

To avoid much trial and error, would someone please suggest a starting
point? I might buy several inductors either side of that and see what they
do. Thanks

--
dgm
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On Fri, 14 Jul 2006 13:09:27 -0500, David McDivitt
wrote:

I purchased an in-dash stereo for my pick-up truck, and some cheap speakers.
The stereo has bass and treble adjustment but not midrange.

The midrange control is, by default, what is not controlled by the
other two.

I have since
replaced the speakers. The new ones do better, and sound better, but still
have the same problem. High frequencies have too much attenuation. Reducing
treble all the way will not kill the cymbals and S sounds.

Seems that that is too little, or not enough, treble attentuation.

With the new
speakers, if I turn the bass up very much, I get incredible deep bass, but
still too much high frequency.

One does not affect the other (much).

I thought I would buy some inductors at Radio Shack and put in line with the
speakers. From what I remember they are measured in henrys. But, I need so
little effect I may be better off making small wire coils, instead.

Probably milliHenries in the audio range.

To avoid much trial and error, would someone please suggest a starting
point? I might buy several inductors either side of that and see what they
do.

I hate to say this but you might be best served by getting a graphic
EQ that will give you more flexible control to achieve the sound you
want.

Kal



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Default speaker freq response

Kalman Rubinson ) writes:
On Fri, 14 Jul 2006 13:09:27 -0500, David McDivitt
wrote:

I purchased an in-dash stereo for my pick-up truck, and some cheap speakers.
The stereo has bass and treble adjustment but not midrange.

The midrange control is, by default, what is not controlled by the
other two.

I have since
replaced the speakers. The new ones do better, and sound better, but still
have the same problem. High frequencies have too much attenuation. Reducing
treble all the way will not kill the cymbals and S sounds.

Seems that that is too little, or not enough, treble attentuation.

Huh? It sounds like the kid wants lots of bass. Either because the
current speakers don't reproduce the low notes, or because he equates
booming bass with good stereo. So when he tries to boost the bass,
he's not getting the results he wants.


Michael

With the new
speakers, if I turn the bass up very much, I get incredible deep bass, but
still too much high frequency.

One does not affect the other (much).

I thought I would buy some inductors at Radio Shack and put in line with the
speakers. From what I remember they are measured in henrys. But, I need so
little effect I may be better off making small wire coils, instead.

Probably milliHenries in the audio range.

To avoid much trial and error, would someone please suggest a starting
point? I might buy several inductors either side of that and see what they
do.

I hate to say this but you might be best served by getting a graphic
EQ that will give you more flexible control to achieve the sound you
want.

Kal





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Default speaker freq response

In article ,
David McDivitt wrote:
I purchased an in-dash stereo for my pick-up truck, and some cheap
speakers. The stereo has bass and treble adjustment but not midrange. I
have since replaced the speakers. The new ones do better, and sound
better, but still have the same problem. High frequencies have too much
attenuation.


By the rest of your post, you mean the other way around.

Reducing treble all the way will not kill the cymbals and S
sounds. With the new speakers, if I turn the bass up very much, I get
incredible deep bass, but still too much high frequency.


I thought I would buy some inductors at Radio Shack and put in line with
the speakers. From what I remember they are measured in henrys. But, I
need so little effect I may be better off making small wire coils,
instead.


Easiest way is to add a resistor in series with each tweeter. Something
about 8 ohm 5 watt should be a good start

--
*I'm pretty sure that sex is better than logic, but I can't prove it.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
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Default speaker freq response

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
David McDivitt wrote:
I purchased an in-dash stereo for my pick-up truck, and some cheap
speakers. The stereo has bass and treble adjustment but not

midrange. I
have since replaced the speakers. The new ones do better, and

sound
better, but still have the same problem. High frequencies have too

much
attenuation.


By the rest of your post, you mean the other way around.

Reducing treble all the way will not kill the cymbals and S
sounds. With the new speakers, if I turn the bass up very much, I

get
incredible deep bass, but still too much high frequency.


I thought I would buy some inductors at Radio Shack and put in

line with
the speakers. From what I remember they are measured in henrys.

But, I
need so little effect I may be better off making small wire coils,
instead.


Easiest way is to add a resistor in series with each tweeter.

Something
about 8 ohm 5 watt should be a good start

--
*I'm pretty sure that sex is better than logic, but I can't prove

it.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.


I used resistors for setting the tweeter levels but ran into a little
quirk. The added resistance changed the crossover frequency but more
importanly, it messed up the damping which sounded like ('cause it was)
ringing. The cure was to add a second resistor in parallel with the
tweeter.

GG



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From: Kalman Rubinson
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2006 14:44:24 -0400
Lines: 35

On Fri, 14 Jul 2006 13:09:27 -0500, David McDivitt
wrote:

I purchased an in-dash stereo for my pick-up truck, and some cheap speakers.
The stereo has bass and treble adjustment but not midrange.

The midrange control is, by default, what is not controlled by the
other two.

I have since
replaced the speakers. The new ones do better, and sound better, but still
have the same problem. High frequencies have too much attenuation. Reducing
treble all the way will not kill the cymbals and S sounds.

Seems that that is too little, or not enough, treble attentuation.

With the new
speakers, if I turn the bass up very much, I get incredible deep bass, but
still too much high frequency.

One does not affect the other (much).

I thought I would buy some inductors at Radio Shack and put in line with the
speakers. From what I remember they are measured in henrys. But, I need so
little effect I may be better off making small wire coils, instead.

Probably milliHenries in the audio range.

To avoid much trial and error, would someone please suggest a starting
point? I might buy several inductors either side of that and see what they
do.

I hate to say this but you might be best served by getting a graphic
EQ that will give you more flexible control to achieve the sound you
want.



A graphic EQ would be overkill and I would have no place to put it. Thanks
for the suggestion. I do not want to screw with it. It's just that when I
turn it on, I get too much high frequency. I want to fix it so I can quit
bitching about it.

--
dgm
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From: "Dave Plowman (News)"
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2006 20:18:45 +0100
Lines: 27

In article ,
David McDivitt wrote:
I purchased an in-dash stereo for my pick-up truck, and some cheap
speakers. The stereo has bass and treble adjustment but not midrange. I
have since replaced the speakers. The new ones do better, and sound
better, but still have the same problem. High frequencies have too much
attenuation.


By the rest of your post, you mean the other way around.

Reducing treble all the way will not kill the cymbals and S
sounds. With the new speakers, if I turn the bass up very much, I get
incredible deep bass, but still too much high frequency.


I thought I would buy some inductors at Radio Shack and put in line with
the speakers. From what I remember they are measured in henrys. But, I
need so little effect I may be better off making small wire coils,
instead.


Easiest way is to add a resistor in series with each tweeter. Something
about 8 ohm 5 watt should be a good start


True. I used "attenuate" inappropriately. Using resistors would mean I'd
have to dismantle the speakers, or make the job overly complex. I paid $69
for the pair at Walmart and I don't want to screw them up. Seems if I put a
very small inductor in series, it would lower the frequency response. The
effect of the inductor would be more pronounced the higher the frequency,
and less the lower the frequency, such that the difference to bass would be
insignificant, but on the top end it would do what I want.

I just need a value for an inductor.

--
dgm
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Default speaker freq response

You guys will all laugh at me, but I 'normalized' the tinny crap
speakers in my 1980 Ford Fairmont by pulling the speaker grilles off
and sticking a rubber mat to the back side of it.

When I put the grilles back on, all the really 'sharp' treble was cut,
and the speakers sounded a little more flat.

I couldn't tell you any numbers or anything to that regard. I guess I
was just lucky.



In your case though, I would agree with the suggestion of a graphic EQ.
This will let you dial it in exactly like you want it, and even let
you 'adjust' it for certain CDs, like those that are all compressed and
clipped to hell.

Good luck.

-phaeton

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(snip)
Easiest way is to add a resistor in series with each tweeter. Something
about 8 ohm 5 watt should be a good start


True. I used "attenuate" inappropriately. Using resistors would mean I'd
have to dismantle the speakers, or make the job overly complex. I paid $69
for the pair at Walmart and I don't want to screw them up. Seems if I put
a
very small inductor in series, it would lower the frequency response. The
effect of the inductor would be more pronounced the higher the frequency,
and less the lower the frequency, such that the difference to bass would
be
insignificant, but on the top end it would do what I want.

I just need a value for an inductor.

--
dgm


Do a little math. XL=2*pi*f*L.

Set XL to 8 ohms or so, pick a frequency (f) and calculate L. The complete
equation for a voltage divider is quite simple as well. Just remember XL is
on the imaginary axis in the complex plane.

David



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From: "David"
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2006 21:14:25 GMT
Lines: 28


(snip)
Easiest way is to add a resistor in series with each tweeter. Something
about 8 ohm 5 watt should be a good start


True. I used "attenuate" inappropriately. Using resistors would mean I'd
have to dismantle the speakers, or make the job overly complex. I paid $69
for the pair at Walmart and I don't want to screw them up. Seems if I put
a
very small inductor in series, it would lower the frequency response. The
effect of the inductor would be more pronounced the higher the frequency,
and less the lower the frequency, such that the difference to bass would
be
insignificant, but on the top end it would do what I want.

I just need a value for an inductor.

--
dgm


Do a little math. XL=2*pi*f*L.

Set XL to 8 ohms or so, pick a frequency (f) and calculate L. The complete
equation for a voltage divider is quite simple as well. Just remember XL is
on the imaginary axis in the complex plane.


That will give me a starting point. Thanks

--
dgm
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Default speaker freq response

On Fri, 14 Jul 2006 13:09:27 -0500, David McDivitt wrote:

I purchased an in-dash stereo for my pick-up truck, and some cheap speakers.
The stereo has bass and treble adjustment but not midrange. I have since
replaced the speakers. The new ones do better, and sound better, but still
have the same problem. High frequencies have too much attenuation. Reducing
treble all the way will not kill the cymbals and S sounds.


Well, you/ve just said two things which are the exact opposite of each
other. "attenuation" means "how much it's reduced".

And, as has been said, "Mid-Range" is what's left after you manipulate
the bass and treble cut/boost.

Play with your knobs some more, before you start hacking this unit.

Good Luck!
Rich

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On Fri, 14 Jul 2006 15:28:04 -0500, David McDivitt wrote:

From: (Michael Black)
Date: 14 Jul 2006 18:53:48 GMT
Lines: 46

Kalman Rubinson ) writes:
On Fri, 14 Jul 2006 13:09:27 -0500, David McDivitt
wrote:

I purchased an in-dash stereo for my pick-up truck, and some cheap speakers.
The stereo has bass and treble adjustment but not midrange.
The midrange control is, by default, what is not controlled by the
other two.

I have since
replaced the speakers. The new ones do better, and sound better, but still
have the same problem. High frequencies have too much attenuation. Reducing
treble all the way will not kill the cymbals and S sounds.
Seems that that is too little, or not enough, treble attentuation.

Huh? It sounds like the kid wants lots of bass. Either because the
current speakers don't reproduce the low notes, or because he equates
booming bass with good stereo. So when he tries to boost the bass,
he's not getting the results he wants.


Being a 50year old kid is OK I guess. I got it backwards. I thought
attenuate meant to increase. Whatever. I do not want any more bass.

I just want to get rid of too much high audio frequency from the speakers.


If turning the treble control down doesn't help, then I'd take the
speakers back to the store and ask why they're so tinny. It sounds like
you need a mid-range, instead of a full-range speaker. Trying to filter
it, once it's at speaker level, could be more trouble than it's worth -
maybe a low-pass filter, but at 4 ohms impedance?

Good Luck!
Rich


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Default speaker freq response

You should buy a speaker with the proper frequency response that you need.
The higher the cost of the speaker, the better the response that it will
have.

As for correcting the response, it will be difficult to get something that
is not there in the first place!

--

JANA
_____


"David McDivitt" wrote in message
news I purchased an in-dash stereo for my pick-up truck, and some cheap speakers.
The stereo has bass and treble adjustment but not midrange. I have since
replaced the speakers. The new ones do better, and sound better, but still
have the same problem. High frequencies have too much attenuation. Reducing
treble all the way will not kill the cymbals and S sounds. With the new
speakers, if I turn the bass up very much, I get incredible deep bass, but
still too much high frequency.

I thought I would buy some inductors at Radio Shack and put in line with the
speakers. From what I remember they are measured in henrys. But, I need so
little effect I may be better off making small wire coils, instead.

To avoid much trial and error, would someone please suggest a starting
point? I might buy several inductors either side of that and see what they
do. Thanks

--
dgm


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On 14 Jul 2006 13:59:45 -0700, in message
. com, "phaeton"
scribed:

You guys will all laugh at me, but I 'normalized' the tinny crap
speakers in my 1980 Ford Fairmont by pulling the speaker grilles off
and sticking a rubber mat to the back side of it.


"It" is a little ambiguous there. If "it" is the back of the speaker
grille, then that's a dandy hi-stop filter! OP might take note and just
stick some kind of soft material in front of the speaker cone. Maybe even
the foam that is sold as speaker cover material; that stuff probably cuts
the extreme highs at least a little.

If "it" is the speaker mount, then maybe the tinniness in your case was
vibration of the car's panels (similar to the horrible distortion that
emanates from the many poorly done subwoofer installations - crank it up
and the car becomes the speaker).

When I put the grilles back on, all the really 'sharp' treble was cut,
and the speakers sounded a little more flat.


--

If life seems jolly rotten, there's something you've forgotten,
and that's to laugh and smile and dance and sing!


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From: "JANA"
Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2006 09:09:57 -0400
Lines: 35

You should buy a speaker with the proper frequency response that you need.
The higher the cost of the speaker, the better the response that it will
have.

As for correcting the response, it will be difficult to get something that
is not there in the first place!



I already said I bought the most expensive ones at Walmart, and they do
sound pretty good. I assumed if I paid that much I would get rid of the
tinny stuff. It's better but not gone. Besides, I have not seen any place
where one can pick and choose the frequency response for car stereo
speakers, and I would not want to spend anymore money.

I haven't had a chance to do it yet, but I'm sure a slight inductor in
series with the main speaker wire will do the trick. When done I will report
back.

--
dgm
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I have the opposite problem, my computer speakers buzz when I play some
modern movies with music in them (Walk The Line (Johnny Cash)). The bass is
boosted because I guess "everybody has a home theater system with a
crossover and floor-shaker sub-woofer". Well I don't and can't afford one
because my debtors can't give me anything but static. If any of your
experiments cut the bass please tell me in the group.

"David McDivitt" wrote in message
...
From: "JANA"
Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2006 09:09:57 -0400
Lines: 35

You should buy a speaker with the proper frequency response that you

need.
The higher the cost of the speaker, the better the response that it will
have.

As for correcting the response, it will be difficult to get something

that
is not there in the first place!



I already said I bought the most expensive ones at Walmart, and they do
sound pretty good. I assumed if I paid that much I would get rid of the
tinny stuff. It's better but not gone. Besides, I have not seen any place
where one can pick and choose the frequency response for car stereo
speakers, and I would not want to spend anymore money.

I haven't had a chance to do it yet, but I'm sure a slight inductor in
series with the main speaker wire will do the trick. When done I will

report
back.

--
dgm



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Put a very large capacitor in series with the speaker, where one of the
speaker wires connects. The goal is to move the entire frequency response up
or down without using any shunts or parallel components. You might take the
speaker apart and glue all the joints, and inspect for anything that might
vibrate or move inside.

From:
Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2006 23:20:22 GMT
Lines: 38

I have the opposite problem, my computer speakers buzz when I play some
modern movies with music in them (Walk The Line (Johnny Cash)). The bass is
boosted because I guess "everybody has a home theater system with a
crossover and floor-shaker sub-woofer". Well I don't and can't afford one
because my debtors can't give me anything but static. If any of your
experiments cut the bass please tell me in the group.


--
dgm
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From: David McDivitt
Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2006 17:34:39 -0500
Lines: 24

From: "JANA"
Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2006 09:09:57 -0400
Lines: 35

You should buy a speaker with the proper frequency response that you need.
The higher the cost of the speaker, the better the response that it will
have.

As for correcting the response, it will be difficult to get something that
is not there in the first place!



I already said I bought the most expensive ones at Walmart, and they do
sound pretty good. I assumed if I paid that much I would get rid of the
tinny stuff. It's better but not gone. Besides, I have not seen any place
where one can pick and choose the frequency response for car stereo
speakers, and I would not want to spend anymore money.

I haven't had a chance to do it yet, but I'm sure a slight inductor in
series with the main speaker wire will do the trick. When done I will report
back.



Radio Shack only had 100 micro henry inductors. If I'd gone to an industrial
electronic store I could have found more. So I placed one in series with
each speaker and it worked. The tinny sound was reduced but not eliminated,
and the bass was boosted even further. I had the loudness enabled, which
seemed to do better drowning out the tinniness. When I turned off loudness,
I got real good midrange, acceptable treble, and still plenty of bass. The
treble was still turned all the way down, though. I estimate a 500 micro
henry inductor would work best, since that would allow treble at other than
minimum on the control. I may mail order some.

--
dgm


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Radio Shack only had 100 micro henry inductors. If I'd gone to an industrial
electronic store I could have found more. So I placed one in series with
each speaker and it worked. The tinny sound was reduced but not eliminated,
and the bass was boosted even further. I had the loudness enabled, which
seemed to do better drowning out the tinniness. When I turned off loudness,
I got real good midrange, acceptable treble, and still plenty of bass. The
treble was still turned all the way down, though. I estimate a 500 micro
henry inductor would work best, since that would allow treble at other than
minimum on the control. I may mail order some.



Are you sure the head unit is ok? It may be crappy (or broken) and
putting out a "tinny" signal at no fault of the speakers. Garbage in,
garbage out.
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From: James Sweet
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2006 02:47:24 GMT
Lines: 17

Are you sure the head unit is ok? It may be crappy (or broken) and
putting out a "tinny" signal at no fault of the speakers. Garbage in,
garbage out.


I thought about that. By head unit I assume you mean what's mounted in the
dash. It is fine. I think the problem is common with all car stereo speaker
kits. They are 3-way, 4-way, etc. They have little tweeters stuck on there.
I probably could just cut the tweeter wire and solve the problem, but as
I've found with other modifications to other things, I may wish to go back
to what it was.

--
dgm
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