looking for some type of simple 2D 'plain jane' windows software,
hopefully freeware, to help me draw numerous (all different sized)
rectangular shapes "to the same scale", given my dimensions. planning to
use it to print out the rectangles (on card stock), cut out the
rectangles with scissors, and move 'em around on a big graph paper....

if I could also 'twist, turn, drag, and drop' said icons as 'moveable
objects' within the app itself, it'd be a plus, but I don't expect that
capability in a freeware, and, anyway, it might boggle my 'shallow
learning curve'

does such an app exist? anything close?

need it to help plan how to move 1500 sq feet of toolboxes and machinery
into a 2 car garage (and to better visualize "what's gotta be
eliminated, in what order")

thanks for leads and ideas, guys,

toolie

--
replies by e-mail, if any, should remove the weirdstuff from my address
before clicking 'send'. thanks
--

--It may sound silly in our "modern" age but you can't do better
than graph paper and a pair of scissors for this..

--
"Steamboat Ed" Haas : Whatever happened
Hacking the Trailing Edge! : to Porgy Tirebiter?
www.nmpproducts.com
---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---

"steamer" wrote in message
...
--It may sound silly in our "modern" age but you can't do better
than graph paper and a pair of scissors for this..

That's how I laid out my shop, the old fasioned way. If you insist on
complicating it with a 'puter, 'Floor Plan' which came free with Turbo Cad
might do it for you.
Tom

dave wrote:
looking for some type of simple 2D 'plain jane' windows software,
hopefully freeware, to help me draw numerous (all different sized)
rectangular shapes "to the same scale", given my dimensions. planning
to use it to print out the rectangles (on card stock), cut out the
rectangles with scissors, and move 'em around on a big graph paper....

if I could also 'twist, turn, drag, and drop' said icons as 'moveable
objects' within the app itself, it'd be a plus, but I don't expect
that capability in a freeware, and, anyway, it might boggle my
'shallow learning curve'

does such an app exist? anything close?

need it to help plan how to move 1500 sq feet of toolboxes and
machinery into a 2 car garage (and to better visualize "what's gotta
be eliminated, in what order")

thanks for leads and ideas, guys,

toolie

--
replies by e-mail, if any, should remove the weirdstuff from my
address before clicking 'send'. thanks

http://www.cadstd.com/index.html
Standard disclaimer - no affiliation etc.
Just a satisfied user.

Ken.
--
Volunteer your idle computer time for cancer research
http//www.grid.org/download/gold/download.htm
Return address courtesy of Spammotel http://www.spammotel.com/

Try
http://www.grizzly.com/workshopplanner.aspx

If you setup an account, you can save your drawing for later revisions.

Ron

dave wrote:
looking for some type of simple 2D 'plain jane' windows software,
hopefully freeware, to help me draw numerous (all different sized)
rectangular shapes "to the same scale", given my dimensions. planning to
use it to print out the rectangles (on card stock), cut out the
rectangles with scissors, and move 'em around on a big graph paper....

if I could also 'twist, turn, drag, and drop' said icons as 'moveable
objects' within the app itself, it'd be a plus, but I don't expect that
capability in a freeware, and, anyway, it might boggle my 'shallow
learning curve'

does such an app exist? anything close?

need it to help plan how to move 1500 sq feet of toolboxes and machinery
into a 2 car garage (and to better visualize "what's gotta be
eliminated, in what order")

thanks for leads and ideas, guys,

toolie

--
replies by e-mail, if any, should remove the weirdstuff from my address
before clicking 'send'. thanks
--

On 15 May 2006 16:29:43 GMT, steamer wrote:

--It may sound silly in our "modern" age but you can't do better
than graph paper and a pair of scissors for this..

Indeed. And dont just use the physical footprint of the machine..but
the working envelope.

Ask me how I learned that lesson....sigh

Gunner

The aim of untold millions is to be free to do exactly as they choose
and for someone else to pay when things go wrong.

In the past few decades, a peculiar and distinctive psychology
has emerged in England. Gone are the civility, sturdy independence,
and admirable stoicism that carried the English through the war years
.. It has been replaced by a constant whine of excuses, complaints,
and special pleading. The collapse of the British character has been
as swift and complete as the collapse of British power.

Theodore Dalrymple,

On Mon, 15 May 2006 17:44:14 GMT, Gunner wrote:

Indeed. And dont just use the physical footprint of the machine..but
the working envelope.
Ask me how I learned that lesson....sigh

Does it rhyme with "shaper" by any chance?

But yes, absolutely, graph paper and post-it notes with machine shapes
on them is the way to go. My shop space is limited (30'x18'), but I
think I have a good layout for the 2 mills, the 2 presses, bandsaw,
lathe, drillpress, desk, workbench, and storage.

About storage - I've been buying (used) file cabinets lately, and using
those instead of open shelving. I'm very happy with that; label the
drawers, fill 'em, and then _close 'em_. Neatens up the shop nicely.

I'm just laying out a kitchen using something called Room Arranger
(hopefully Google will find it)

http://www.roomarranger.com/


Newshound wrote:
I'm just laying out a kitchen using something called Room Arranger
(hopefully Google will find it)

Okay, so I'm late and catching up, but Gunner
wrote on Mon, 15 May 2006 17:44:14 GMT in rec.crafts.metalworking :
On 15 May 2006 16:29:43 GMT, steamer wrote:

--It may sound silly in our "modern" age but you can't do better
than graph paper and a pair of scissors for this..

Indeed. And dont just use the physical footprint of the machine..but
the working envelope.

Do remember to add a smidgen (round up). Nothing like discovering that
it won't sit flush with the wall (Where you made your measurement), and
that pushed things out of "alignment".
As for working envelope, do not forget to allow for room for the
operator to wiggle around so he can see what needs to be looked at.

Ask me how I learned that lesson....sigh

So nu? "how did you learn that lesson?" I hope from watching someone
else do a foolish thing. Or are you the smart person who learns from your
own mistakes. :-)
--
pyotr filipivich.
as an explaination for the decline in the US's tech edge, James
Niccol wrote "It used to be that the USA was pretty good at
producing stuff teenaged boys could lose a finger or two playing with."

On Mon, 15 May 2006 11:40:32 -0400, dave wrote:

looking for some type of simple 2D 'plain jane' windows software,
hopefully freeware, to help me draw numerous (all different sized)
rectangular shapes "to the same scale", given my dimensions. planning to
use it to print out the rectangles (on card stock), cut out the
rectangles with scissors, and move 'em around on a big graph paper....

if I could also 'twist, turn, drag, and drop' said icons as 'moveable
objects' within the app itself, it'd be a plus, but I don't expect that
capability in a freeware, and, anyway, it might boggle my 'shallow
learning curve'

does such an app exist? anything close?

need it to help plan how to move 1500 sq feet of toolboxes and machinery
into a 2 car garage (and to better visualize "what's gotta be
eliminated, in what order")

thanks for leads and ideas, guys,

toolie

--

I used Visio (now Micro$oft Visio). But that'll probably cost you about $100.

It has templates for mills, shapers, lathes, doors, windows etc and is good
for things like multi-layer drawings (get the wiring and the airlines in the
right place and then hide them when you want to rotate the milling machine by
15 degrees etc).


Mark Rand
RTFM

"dave" wrote in message
news:Ph1ag.61021$IZ2.16696@dukeread07...
looking for some type of simple 2D 'plain jane' windows software,
hopefully freeware, to help me draw numerous (all different sized)
rectangular shapes "to the same scale", given my dimensions. planning
to use it to print out the rectangles (on card stock), cut out the
rectangles with scissors, and move 'em around on a big graph paper....

if I could also 'twist, turn, drag, and drop' said icons as 'moveable
objects' within the app itself, it'd be a plus, but I don't expect
that capability in a freeware, and, anyway, it might boggle my
'shallow learning curve'

Try "Easyshop Shop Designer" downloadable from
http://www.inthewoodshop.org/software/software.shtml.

Regards,
Bob Headrick

does such an app exist? anything close?

need it to help plan how to move 1500 sq feet of toolboxes and
machinery into a 2 car garage (and to better visualize "what's gotta
be eliminated, in what order")

thanks for leads and ideas, guys,

toolie

--
replies by e-mail, if any, should remove the weirdstuff from my
address before clicking 'send'. thanks
--

On 15 May 2006 18:03:58 GMT, Dave Hinz wrote:

On Mon, 15 May 2006 17:44:14 GMT, Gunner wrote:

Indeed. And dont just use the physical footprint of the machine..but
the working envelope.
Ask me how I learned that lesson....sigh

Does it rhyme with "shaper" by any chance?

Nah..the hole in the wall is strictly for.. er.. ventilation.
Yah..thats it..ventilation.


I was more thinking about when I spotted the MasterMill..and gave
myself 6 inches of travel in either direction before the cranks hit
machines on either side...blush....

Ive since gotten much much better at that sort of thing..enough so
that customers will ask me how to layout their shop when doing a
startup. But at the time...it was a bit...ah..embaressing.

But yes, absolutely, graph paper and post-it notes with machine shapes
on them is the way to go. My shop space is limited (30'x18'), but I
think I have a good layout for the 2 mills, the 2 presses, bandsaw,
lathe, drillpress, desk, workbench, and storage.

About storage - I've been buying (used) file cabinets lately, and using
those instead of open shelving. I'm very happy with that; label the
drawers, fill 'em, and then _close 'em_. Neatens up the shop nicely.


Its still hard to beat IBM punch card cabinets for storage. Im always
on the lookout for more.

Gunner

"If thy pride is sorely vexed when others disparage your offering, be
as lamb's wool is to cold rain and the Gore-tex of Odin's raiment
is to gull**** in the gale, for thy angst shall vex them not at
all. Yea, they shall scorn thee all the more. Rejoice in
sharing what you have to share without expectation of adoration,
knowing that sharing your treasure does not diminish your treasure
but enriches it."

- Onni 1:33

On Mon, 15 May 2006 21:50:53 GMT, pyotr filipivich
wrote:

Okay, so I'm late and catching up, but Gunner
wrote on Mon, 15 May 2006 17:44:14 GMT in rec.crafts.metalworking :
On 15 May 2006 16:29:43 GMT, steamer wrote:

--It may sound silly in our "modern" age but you can't do better
than graph paper and a pair of scissors for this..

Indeed. And dont just use the physical footprint of the machine..but
the working envelope.

Do remember to add a smidgen (round up). Nothing like discovering that
it won't sit flush with the wall (Where you made your measurement), and
that pushed things out of "alignment".
As for working envelope, do not forget to allow for room for the
operator to wiggle around so he can see what needs to be looked at.

Ask me how I learned that lesson....sigh

So nu? "how did you learn that lesson?" I hope from watching someone
else do a foolish thing. Or are you the smart person who learns from your
own mistakes. :-)


"learning from your own mistakes means you now know exactly when to
cringe"


Gunner

"If thy pride is sorely vexed when others disparage your offering, be
as lamb's wool is to cold rain and the Gore-tex of Odin's raiment
is to gull**** in the gale, for thy angst shall vex them not at
all. Yea, they shall scorn thee all the more. Rejoice in
sharing what you have to share without expectation of adoration,
knowing that sharing your treasure does not diminish your treasure
but enriches it."

- Onni 1:33

Hey Dave,

I've got Turbo-cad, Bobcad, AutoCAD and CADkey programs, and I did it
like the other replies said, with the "card-board" cut-outs and graph
paper instead. So much easier and faster, easier to doodle and a
better sense of what's happening somehow. And instead of a 19"
screen, you're working in a decent scale with those really large
graph-paper sheets, maybe about 24 X 36, or even Bristol-board (do you
call it poster-board??) and draw the lines on yourself. In fact,
work it out in 3D if you can.

I also found that I was way off in what I required from my "old place"
to the "new" house.

My "old place" over about a 4 year period was as much space as I
wanted in a 100 wide X 200 long X 30 foot high factory complete with
overhead crane. This was my friends a newly acquired building for
future expansion, adjacent to his main tool & die shop building next
door. A lot of the space I DIDN'T need was used by him (my friend) to
store his old machinery and die-sets and "odd' and surplus materials,
and also had the company beer fridge too! In order to keep the crane
"free" for his use, I put all my powered stuff along the walls, so I
could wire it in to meet the commercial electrical codes, and not have
any possibility that the crane would whack any of it, unless somebody
tried to. Suffice it to say, I just spread everything out as I
acquired it, and I easily used up maybe 5000 square feet of the place.
I literally FILLED a 53 foot van rental-trailer when I moved out.

Now, the "new place" is my new-to-us house with an existing attached
25 X 25 garage with 10 foot ceiling fully insulated and dry-wall
finished, which certainly wasn't going to be big enough for
everything, so I had a 2nd detached one the same size built (but so
far just stud inside walls and no ceiling), giving me two separate
"shops" totaling 1,250 square feet. Quite a come-down!! But it
wasn't/isn't as bad as I had imagined! Where I just spread "out" in
the old place, here I made 32" aisles and also spread "up". The
"back" shop is for dirty stuff like grinding and welding and assembly
and nuts & bolts bins and electrical storage on shelves I put in both
along and perpendicular to the walls. In the "front" shop I built
storage shelving in a "ring" all the way around at 7-1/2 feet high,
and also down the centre between the garage door rails from front to
back. Instead of machines along the wall, I have storage racks and
work-benches, with the machines where I want them in the middle of the
floor. And shelves shelves shelves along with drawers drawers drawers
and 7 tool-boxes and a BIG heavy filing cabinet storing about 500
pounds of brass and copper. Hmmmm....I could still use another one
of those. We've been here almost three years now, and until just
before Christmas 2005 we worked almost daily on getting the "house"
to suit SWMBO's standards, I'm starting to get everything set up in
the shop(s), I can see an end in sight, and I haven't had to
"eliminate" much at all. Hopefully you can do the same.

Anyway, my point is that you can probably use the walls and overhead
to greater advantage in the garage than you might think. I even took
the hinged tops off some of the 36" high tool boxes I have so I didn't
need to leave waste space above the boxes to "lift them" to get into
the tops. I put drawer slides on them and hung them above the boxes
upside down as drawers under the work-bench. Works a treat.

Good luck! Take care.

Brian Lawson,
Bothwell, Ontario.
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX



On Mon, 15 May 2006 11:40:32 -0400, dave
wrote:

looking for some type of simple 2D 'plain jane' windows software,
hopefully freeware, to help me draw numerous (all different sized)
rectangular shapes "to the same scale", given my dimensions. planning to
use it to print out the rectangles (on card stock), cut out the
rectangles with scissors, and move 'em around on a big graph paper....

if I could also 'twist, turn, drag, and drop' said icons as 'moveable
objects' within the app itself, it'd be a plus, but I don't expect that
capability in a freeware, and, anyway, it might boggle my 'shallow
learning curve'

does such an app exist? anything close?

need it to help plan how to move 1500 sq feet of toolboxes and machinery
into a 2 car garage (and to better visualize "what's gotta be
eliminated, in what order")

thanks for leads and ideas, guys,

toolie

--
replies by e-mail, if any, should remove the weirdstuff from my address
before clicking 'send'. thanks

(2nd try)

http://sketchup.google.com/download.html

I have not tried it, though I liked the paid for version of sketchup
OK.

Something I have intended to do, but have not got around to, is drawing
machines more or less to "size" (well, a block to size) and their work
areas as flat thin areas they sit on. The idea being that while you
need x feet in front of the mill, that can overlap with or be the same
x feet in front of the lathe (for example.)

On Tue, 16 May 2006 00:44:38 GMT, Gunner wrote:
On 15 May 2006 18:03:58 GMT, Dave Hinz wrote:

Does it rhyme with "shaper" by any chance?

Nah..the hole in the wall is strictly for.. er.. ventilation.
Yah..thats it..ventilation.

Hm. After what you wrote about the bathroom fan, perhaps I could believe
that.

I was more thinking about when I spotted the MasterMill..and gave
myself 6 inches of travel in either direction before the cranks hit
machines on either side...blush....

Ive since gotten much much better at that sort of thing..enough so
that customers will ask me how to layout their shop when doing a
startup. But at the time...it was a bit...ah..embaressing.

"I meant to do that." "Yeah, right, Dad..." sez my 7 year old daughter.
Kid seems to be a bit sarcastic at times & doesn't buy the BS stories.
Wonder where that comes from.

But yes, absolutely, graph paper and post-it notes with machine shapes
on them is the way to go. My shop space is limited (30'x18'), but I
think I have a good layout for the 2 mills, the 2 presses, bandsaw,
lathe, drillpress, desk, workbench, and storage.

About storage - I've been buying (used) file cabinets lately, and using
those instead of open shelving. I'm very happy with that; label the
drawers, fill 'em, and then _close 'em_. Neatens up the shop nicely.

Its still hard to beat IBM punch card cabinets for storage. Im always
on the lookout for more.

Hm. Good point. Nice heavy small drawers. Perfect for tooling, I'd
think? I should call that furniture salvage yard again. He's got some
pretty old stuff way in the back.

In article , Gunner
wrote:


Its still hard to beat IBM punch card cabinets for storage. Im always
on the lookout for more.

Me too. Only regret I have is that I didn't grab more of them back when
we were tossing them, but I took all I could ude at the time. Got one
set of drawers full of brass, one cartridge case size per.

PDW

On Tue, 16 May 2006 00:45:33 GMT, Gunner
wrote:

"learning from your own mistakes means you now know exactly when to
cringe"

And long experience tells you that when you start diagnosing the
problem and your sixth sense prompts you to say "Oh No - They Didn't,
They Couldn't, They Wouldn't..."

It will be followed shortly thereafter by "Oh Crap, They Did."

-- Bruce --

On 16 May 2006 02:56:14 GMT, Dave Hinz wrote:

On Tue, 16 May 2006 00:44:38 GMT, Gunner wrote:
On 15 May 2006 18:03:58 GMT, Dave Hinz wrote:

Does it rhyme with "shaper" by any chance?

Nah..the hole in the wall is strictly for.. er.. ventilation.
Yah..thats it..ventilation.

Hm. After what you wrote about the bathroom fan, perhaps I could believe
that.

I was more thinking about when I spotted the MasterMill..and gave
myself 6 inches of travel in either direction before the cranks hit
machines on either side...blush....

Ive since gotten much much better at that sort of thing..enough so
that customers will ask me how to layout their shop when doing a
startup. But at the time...it was a bit...ah..embaressing.

"I meant to do that." "Yeah, right, Dad..." sez my 7 year old daughter.
Kid seems to be a bit sarcastic at times & doesn't buy the BS stories.
Wonder where that comes from.

But yes, absolutely, graph paper and post-it notes with machine shapes
on them is the way to go. My shop space is limited (30'x18'), but I
think I have a good layout for the 2 mills, the 2 presses, bandsaw,
lathe, drillpress, desk, workbench, and storage.

About storage - I've been buying (used) file cabinets lately, and using
those instead of open shelving. I'm very happy with that; label the
drawers, fill 'em, and then _close 'em_. Neatens up the shop nicely.

Its still hard to beat IBM punch card cabinets for storage. Im always
on the lookout for more.

Hm. Good point. Nice heavy small drawers. Perfect for tooling, I'd
think? I should call that furniture salvage yard again. He's got some
pretty old stuff way in the back.

They are also ****ing marvelous for nuts and bolts, roll pins and all
manner of bits and pieces. Pull out the clamp thingy..and depending
on the drawer style..you may want to put a block of wood at the rear,
or a sheet of cardboard or something along the bottom (some have holes
to push the cards upwards, others have semi open backs.

Its great to be able to either slide the drawer out and hunt around,
or simply slide it out then pick it up and take it over to the bench.

Gunner

"If thy pride is sorely vexed when others disparage your offering, be
as lamb's wool is to cold rain and the Gore-tex of Odin's raiment
is to gull**** in the gale, for thy angst shall vex them not at
all. Yea, they shall scorn thee all the more. Rejoice in
sharing what you have to share without expectation of adoration,
knowing that sharing your treasure does not diminish your treasure
but enriches it."

- Onni 1:33

On Tue, 16 May 2006 04:12:37 +0100, Peter Wiley
wrote:

In article , Gunner
wrote:


Its still hard to beat IBM punch card cabinets for storage. Im always
on the lookout for more.

Me too. Only regret I have is that I didn't grab more of them back when
we were tossing them, but I took all I could ude at the time. Got one
set of drawers full of brass, one cartridge case size per.

PDW


Gack!! Another use Id not considered. Holding loaded ammo. Currently
I use those big steel shop cabinets, but they are not really suited
for keeping ammo seperated. I think Ive got several hundred CaseGard
boxes stored.

I load for 53 different cartridges. Or can.

Gunner

"If thy pride is sorely vexed when others disparage your offering, be
as lamb's wool is to cold rain and the Gore-tex of Odin's raiment
is to gull**** in the gale, for thy angst shall vex them not at
all. Yea, they shall scorn thee all the more. Rejoice in
sharing what you have to share without expectation of adoration,
knowing that sharing your treasure does not diminish your treasure
but enriches it."

- Onni 1:33

On Tue, 16 May 2006 03:51:20 GMT, Bruce L. Bergman
wrote:

On Tue, 16 May 2006 00:45:33 GMT, Gunner
wrote:

"learning from your own mistakes means you now know exactly when to
cringe"

And long experience tells you that when you start diagnosing the
problem and your sixth sense prompts you to say "Oh No - They Didn't,
They Couldn't, They Wouldn't..."

It will be followed shortly thereafter by "Oh Crap, They Did."

-- Bruce --

Big Gold Star!



Gunner

"If thy pride is sorely vexed when others disparage your offering, be
as lamb's wool is to cold rain and the Gore-tex of Odin's raiment
is to gull**** in the gale, for thy angst shall vex them not at
all. Yea, they shall scorn thee all the more. Rejoice in
sharing what you have to share without expectation of adoration,
knowing that sharing your treasure does not diminish your treasure
but enriches it."

- Onni 1:33

On 15 May 2006 18:13:21 -0700, "Bryan" wrote:

(2nd try)

http://sketchup.google.com/download.html

I have not tried it, though I liked the paid for version of sketchup
OK.

Something I have intended to do, but have not got around to, is drawing
machines more or less to "size" (well, a block to size) and their work
areas as flat thin areas they sit on. The idea being that while you
need x feet in front of the mill, that can overlap with or be the same
x feet in front of the lathe (for example.)

What could be done..is everybody measure their machines Useable
footprint and post it, so a chart could be made.

Bridgeports are pretty common..but who knows the usable footprint of a
6x8 surface grinder?

That would be a nice chart to put in the FAQ or somewhere, just for
this reason.

Gunner

"If thy pride is sorely vexed when others disparage your offering, be
as lamb's wool is to cold rain and the Gore-tex of Odin's raiment
is to gull**** in the gale, for thy angst shall vex them not at
all. Yea, they shall scorn thee all the more. Rejoice in
sharing what you have to share without expectation of adoration,
knowing that sharing your treasure does not diminish your treasure
but enriches it."

- Onni 1:33

On Tue, 16 May 2006 04:46:25 GMT, Gunner wrote:
On Tue, 16 May 2006 04:12:37 +0100, Peter Wiley
wrote:

Me too. Only regret I have is that I didn't grab more of them back when
we were tossing them, but I took all I could ude at the time. Got one
set of drawers full of brass, one cartridge case size per.

Gack!! Another use Id not considered. Holding loaded ammo. Currently
I use those big steel shop cabinets, but they are not really suited
for keeping ammo seperated. I think Ive got several hundred CaseGard
boxes stored.

That's strange. I use these things called "ammo cans" for that.
Standard sizes, self-supporting, and stack nicely. Of course, the one
I want is always on the bottom - how do they _do_ that?

I load for 53 different cartridges. Or can.

Hm. I don't think I'm ther yet, but as of last week, I think I can
reload for all the calibers I own guns for, which have reloadable
cartridges.

On 16 May 2006 14:41:14 GMT, Dave Hinz wrote:

On Tue, 16 May 2006 04:46:25 GMT, Gunner wrote:
On Tue, 16 May 2006 04:12:37 +0100, Peter Wiley
wrote:

Me too. Only regret I have is that I didn't grab more of them back when
we were tossing them, but I took all I could ude at the time. Got one
set of drawers full of brass, one cartridge case size per.

Gack!! Another use Id not considered. Holding loaded ammo. Currently
I use those big steel shop cabinets, but they are not really suited
for keeping ammo seperated. I think Ive got several hundred CaseGard
boxes stored.

That's strange. I use these things called "ammo cans" for that.
Standard sizes, self-supporting, and stack nicely. Of course, the one
I want is always on the bottom - how do they _do_ that?

When one loads fifty or a hundred rounds of 6.5 vom Hoff, or 9.5
Mauser..it hardly fills an ammo can..and if I put em in a "Metric"
ammo can, not only will it be on the bottom...but Id have to dig
through the can itself for the proper CaseGard.

I load for 53 different cartridges. Or can.

Hm. I don't think I'm ther yet, but as of last week, I think I can
reload for all the calibers I own guns for, which have reloadable
cartridges.

Need a specific die..let me know. I do have some extras, bits and
pieces. And neck sizing dies are easy as hell to make.

All cartridges are reloadable. Some are just easier than others to do
G


Got a copy of Cartridge Conversions?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/088...lance&n=283155

This is an "also ran"
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/088...lance&n=283155


This is a Must Have

http://www.booktrail.com/Guns_Reload...TheWorld10.asp


One should also note..that converting a rimfire to a center fire is
quite doable, without ruining the value of the firearm. You simply
make up a set of centerfire parts, bolt etc and make cartridges to
fit. You ARE a machinest aferall ....G

Gunner who regrets passing on the Stevens #44 Ideal in 32 rimfire some
years ago for $100

"If thy pride is sorely vexed when others disparage your offering, be
as lamb's wool is to cold rain and the Gore-tex of Odin's raiment
is to gull**** in the gale, for thy angst shall vex them not at
all. Yea, they shall scorn thee all the more. Rejoice in
sharing what you have to share without expectation of adoration,
knowing that sharing your treasure does not diminish your treasure
but enriches it."

- Onni 1:33

On Tue, 16 May 2006 17:05:47 GMT, Gunner wrote:
On 16 May 2006 14:41:14 GMT, Dave Hinz wrote:

Hm. I don't think I'm ther yet, but as of last week, I think I can
reload for all the calibers I own guns for, which have reloadable
cartridges.

Need a specific die..let me know. I do have some extras, bits and
pieces. And neck sizing dies are easy as hell to make.

Well, I just "made" a .44 S&W Russian out of a .44 Special die. Nothing
exotic but got to use the grinder for something and get some real-world
use out of it. Looks nice.

All cartridges are reloadable. Some are just easier than others to do
G

Yeah, well, .22LR just isn't gonna happen in my house. Not when they're
cheap.

Got a copy of Cartridge Conversions?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/088...lance&n=283155

I will now. Man, that one-click ordering makes it easy to spend money.

This is an "also ran"
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/088...lance&n=283155

Haven't seen that one, maybe for my birthday.

This is a Must Have
http://www.booktrail.com/Guns_Reload...TheWorld10.asp

Got a couple of those.

One should also note..that converting a rimfire to a center fire is
quite doable, without ruining the value of the firearm. You simply
make up a set of centerfire parts, bolt etc and make cartridges to
fit. You ARE a machinest aferall ....G

Still not sure about that. I'm still sticking with "I'm a guy with a
lot of nice machine tools". Not sure when I can call myself a machinist
but I think at this point it'd be ... what's the word here? Arrogant?
I mean, I really, really don't know what I'm doing to the point where
any of it comes naturally. I discover things that then are obvious but
until I've got more experience I don't think I'm entitled to call myself
a machinist yet.

That said, I haven't made scrap in about 3 projects.

Gunner who regrets passing on the Stevens #44 Ideal in 32 rimfire some
years ago for $100

My mom is working on our genealogy and finds that we're related to a
Savage family that goes way back (17th century, Plymouth and all that).
I'm looking forward to seeing if it's _that_ Savage.

In article , Bruce L.
Bergman wrote:

On Tue, 16 May 2006 00:45:33 GMT, Gunner
wrote:

"learning from your own mistakes means you now know exactly when to
cringe"

And long experience tells you that when you start diagnosing the
problem and your sixth sense prompts you to say "Oh No - They Didn't,
They Couldn't, They Wouldn't..."

It will be followed shortly thereafter by "Oh Crap, They Did."

Sigh. Yes.

Used to tell one of my programmers that his bright idea(s) wouldn't
work as well as a different approach. When asked how I knew, I used to
say that I had a lot of experience in the history of errors, and could
recognise a new one without actually *doing* it. Not that he ever
listened.

Ditto for other stuff. Got an email back from one of my ships telling
me that a sheave pin had come adrift from a block while towing a small
trawl. Fisrt thing I thought of was 'that's impossible' followed by
'wonder if the sheave was made in-house' followed by 'please don't tell
me they used a bolt threaded into the cheekplate'.

Which they had done, and the rotation had backed it out under load......

Lucky nobody got injured or killed from that one. I *never* would have
done anything so stupid. I personally cut the block up for scrap when
the ship got back into port.

PDW

In article , Gunner
wrote:

On Tue, 16 May 2006 04:12:37 +0100, Peter Wiley
wrote:

In article , Gunner
wrote:


Its still hard to beat IBM punch card cabinets for storage. Im always
on the lookout for more.

Me too. Only regret I have is that I didn't grab more of them back when
we were tossing them, but I took all I could ude at the time. Got one
set of drawers full of brass, one cartridge case size per.

PDW


Gack!! Another use Id not considered. Holding loaded ammo. Currently
I use those big steel shop cabinets, but they are not really suited
for keeping ammo seperated. I think Ive got several hundred CaseGard
boxes stored.

I load for 53 different cartridges. Or can.

I just keep my empty brass in the drawers. Maybe 10 different calibres.
ATM I can't be bothered reloading as I do very little shooting, but one
day I may have the time again. Might have to add .310 Cadet to my
collection as I picked up a nice Martini reciever last year and had a
barrel tucked away from 20 years ago. Both bits have made it to the
workbench where - sigh - the threads on the bbl are slightly OD for the
reciever. Pitch is fine but there isn't enough clearance to screw them
together without excessive force. Good thing I have a lathe, bad thing
is I lack the time - and I haven't decided which is the better approach
to fixing the problem. The feral cats may live a bit longer; I was
planning on handloading SWC to about 800 fps for a nice quiet cat
killer. OTOH there's always the 22RF with subsonics......

PDW

According to Gunner :
On 16 May 2006 14:41:14 GMT, Dave Hinz wrote:

On Tue, 16 May 2006 04:46:25 GMT, Gunner wrote:

[ ... ]

I load for 53 different cartridges. Or can.

Hm. I don't think I'm ther yet, but as of last week, I think I can
reload for all the calibers I own guns for, which have reloadable
cartridges.

Need a specific die..let me know. I do have some extras, bits and
pieces. And neck sizing dies are easy as hell to make.

All cartridges are reloadable. Some are just easier than others to do

Hmm ... are there any non-Berdan primed cartridges for the SKS
(7.62x39)? If not, are there any reliable ways to deprime and re-prime
those? I could imagine making a forked deprimer, but it would be a pain
to use.

Of course -- then I would have to worry about catching the
empties, before the NRA range swept them up into their great bin of
brass. :-)

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On Wed, 17 May 2006 01:15:25 +0100, Peter Wiley
wrote:

Ditto for other stuff. Got an email back from one of my ships telling
me that a sheave pin had come adrift from a block while towing a small
trawl. Fisrt thing I thought of was 'that's impossible' followed by
'wonder if the sheave was made in-house' followed by 'please don't tell
me they used a bolt threaded into the cheekplate'.

Which they had done, and the rotation had backed it out under load......

Lucky nobody got injured or killed from that one. I *never* would have
done anything so stupid. I personally cut the block up for scrap when
the ship got back into port.

And all for the wont of one castellated nut, a drilled hole through
the bolt threads, and a big cotter pin. Which in hindsight seems
perfectly sensible.

-- Bruce --

--
Bruce L. Bergman, Woodland Hills (Los Angeles) CA - Desktop
Electrician for Westend Electric - CA726700
5737 Kanan Rd. #359, Agoura CA 91301 (818) 889-9545
Spamtrapped address: Remove the python and the invalid, and use a net.

In article , DoN. Nichols
wrote:

According to Gunner :
On 16 May 2006 14:41:14 GMT, Dave Hinz wrote:

On Tue, 16 May 2006 04:46:25 GMT, Gunner wrote:

[ ... ]

I load for 53 different cartridges. Or can.

Hm. I don't think I'm ther yet, but as of last week, I think I can
reload for all the calibers I own guns for, which have reloadable
cartridges.

Need a specific die..let me know. I do have some extras, bits and
pieces. And neck sizing dies are easy as hell to make.

All cartridges are reloadable. Some are just easier than others to do

Hmm ... are there any non-Berdan primed cartridges for the SKS
(7.62x39)? If not, are there any reliable ways to deprime and re-prime
those? I could imagine making a forked deprimer, but it would be a pain
to use.

Hydraulic decapper. Personally I wouldn't bother, but it has been done.

PDW

According to Peter Wiley :
In article , DoN. Nichols
wrote:

According to Gunner :

[ ... ]

All cartridges are reloadable. Some are just easier than others to do

Hmm ... are there any non-Berdan primed cartridges for the SKS
(7.62x39)? If not, are there any reliable ways to deprime and re-prime
those? I could imagine making a forked deprimer, but it would be a pain
to use.

Hydraulic decapper. Personally I wouldn't bother, but it has been done.

I have read of them -- but they strike me as rather messy. What
fluid is used? Water? (Then you need to let it dry, of course.) Oil?
That might require rather more aggressive solvents to clean it out
before you can proceed with the reloading.

Thanks,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On 17 May 2006 02:48:10 GMT, (DoN. Nichols)
wrote:

According to Gunner :
On 16 May 2006 14:41:14 GMT, Dave Hinz wrote:

On Tue, 16 May 2006 04:46:25 GMT, Gunner wrote:

[ ... ]

I load for 53 different cartridges. Or can.

Hm. I don't think I'm ther yet, but as of last week, I think I can
reload for all the calibers I own guns for, which have reloadable
cartridges.

Need a specific die..let me know. I do have some extras, bits and
pieces. And neck sizing dies are easy as hell to make.

All cartridges are reloadable. Some are just easier than others to do

Hmm ... are there any non-Berdan primed cartridges for the SKS
(7.62x39)? If not, are there any reliable ways to deprime and re-prime
those? I could imagine making a forked deprimer, but it would be a pain
to use.

Sure. Winchester, Remington and all the US makers use Boxer primed
brass. Ive got a bunch.

To decap berdan, check if its been ring sealed..a pressed ring of
brass around the primer..if its there..set it aside. If not..simply
put the case, primer down over a hole in a piece of steel plate and
fill with water. Make a punch thats a snug fit in the case neck.
Insert punch until it sits on the water, then hit it with a hammer.

SPLOSH! out pops the primer and all the water. Only time I suggest
reloading in the heat of the summer and wearing little or nothing G

Berdan primers are easy enough to order. For the SKS and Ak etc..get
miltary "hard" primers if you can. Some of em have sticky firing pins
that may tap the primer on going into battery and with a very
sensiticve US primer..has been known to discharge..occasionally before
lockup. Rare though in a weapon in good condition. To determine
this...let the bolt slam forwards on a live round pointed down range,
extract and examine the primer..if its got a mark on it...best be
careful in the future.

But frankly..reloading x39 cares is not easy if they are Berdan
primed..as they are most often steel cases with a coating on them..and
its tough on a sizing die.

http://cgi.ebay.com/7-62-x-39-mm-Brass-Unprimed-Cases-50-Pc-NEW-Winchester_W0QQitemZ7242180085QQcategoryZ31824QQss PageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Lot of boxer primed x39 brass out there. These folks above are not the
cheapest, but are not bad.

Of course -- then I would have to worry about catching the
empties, before the NRA range swept them up into their great bin of
brass. :-)

Enjoy,
DoN.

G..all but one of my SKS's will pile them in a circle about 4' in
diameter and to my 5' 0'clock. And that one Ive never tweaked the
extractor hook.

Now the FN-49...that puts em all across the fruited plain...even when
the gas port is adjusted to just barely pull em out of the chamber.

Btw..you can shoot 120 gr M1 Carbine cast or jacketed bullets out of
them must fine (SKS). Cast tends to not cycle the action unless you
use Blue Dot and even then its iffy and tends to fill the gas port up
with mang pretty quickly but still shoots just fine long after than.
Just turns it into a single shot until you clean out the port/piston
and go back to jacketed.

I shoot the FN-49 (8mm) with a 220 gr cast Lovern style with rather
surprising accuracy, even though the borel looks like a back country
road in a poor county (Egyption..corrosive ammo..when I got the
gun..it had been stored for 15 yrs in a shed, after the previous owner
had fired off a 1000 rds of the worstest nastiest 8mm Id ever
fired..when it fired. I had to ram a steel rod down the barrel with a
hammer before I could see daylight). Someday Id like to find someone
to do a 308 rebarrel. I understand its supposed to be fairly easy..but
Ive never seen it done.
In the mean time..Ill just have to use the M1A

The FN-49 and the M1A are about the only two full sized self loading
battle rifles that are legal in California. Damit. Then there is
the Ljunman..but I value my thumb way too much.

Anyone got a rear sight for a Argentine Calvalry Carbine? Another
Round TuIt project. Probably put a peep on it before taking it out and
having that hard kicking tiny little ******* abuse me.

Gunner


"If thy pride is sorely vexed when others disparage your offering, be
as lamb's wool is to cold rain and the Gore-tex of Odin's raiment
is to gull**** in the gale, for thy angst shall vex them not at
all. Yea, they shall scorn thee all the more. Rejoice in
sharing what you have to share without expectation of adoration,
knowing that sharing your treasure does not diminish your treasure
but enriches it."

- Onni 1:33

On Wed, 17 May 2006 06:12:25 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm, Gunner
quickly quoth:

To decap berdan, check if its been ring sealed..a pressed ring of
brass around the primer..if its there..set it aside. If not..simply
put the case, primer down over a hole in a piece of steel plate and
fill with water. Make a punch thats a snug fit in the case neck.
Insert punch until it sits on the water, then hit it with a hammer.

SPLOSH! out pops the primer and all the water. Only time I suggest
reloading in the heat of the summer and wearing little or nothing G

Should we expect a book @ Amazon in the Summer of '06, G-man?

_Nude Reloading, Vol. 1_ by Gunner Asche


--
"Most Folks Are As Happy As They Make Up Their Minds To Be"
-Abraham Lincoln
-----------------------------------------------------------
www.diversify.com - Happy Website Development

DoN. Nichols wrote:
All cartridges are reloadable. Some are just easier than others to do

Hmm ... are there any non-Berdan primed cartridges for the SKS
(7.62x39)? If not, are there any reliable ways to deprime and re-prime
those? I could imagine making a forked deprimer, but it would be a pain
to use.

Hydraulic decapper. Personally I wouldn't bother, but it has been done.

I have read of them -- but they strike me as rather messy. What
fluid is used? Water? (Then you need to let it dry, of course.) Oil?
That might require rather more aggressive solvents to clean it out
before you can proceed with the reloading.

Thanks,
DoN.

I'm "pretty sure" I've seen some device for removing Berdan primers,
that peirced the primer and then sort of "jacked" it out. A lever
sort of thing. Been a long time ago. Anyway where would you get
the replacements?
...lew...

On Wed, 17 May 2006 14:37:20 GMT, Lew Hartswick
wrote:

DoN. Nichols wrote:
All cartridges are reloadable. Some are just easier than others to do

Hmm ... are there any non-Berdan primed cartridges for the SKS
(7.62x39)? If not, are there any reliable ways to deprime and re-prime
those? I could imagine making a forked deprimer, but it would be a pain
to use.

Hydraulic decapper. Personally I wouldn't bother, but it has been done.

I have read of them -- but they strike me as rather messy. What
fluid is used? Water? (Then you need to let it dry, of course.) Oil?
That might require rather more aggressive solvents to clean it out
before you can proceed with the reloading.

Thanks,
DoN.

I'm "pretty sure" I've seen some device for removing Berdan primers,
that peirced the primer and then sort of "jacked" it out. A lever
sort of thing. Been a long time ago. Anyway where would you get
the replacements?
...lew...

RCBS made em for years. I think I loaned mine out years ago and it
never came back, come to think of it....

http://website.lineone.net/~da.cushman/berdandecap.html

http://www.dave-cushman.net/shot/rcb...tructions.html

http://www.surplusrifle.com/shooting...gpt3/index.asp

Need more? G

Gunner

"If thy pride is sorely vexed when others disparage your offering, be
as lamb's wool is to cold rain and the Gore-tex of Odin's raiment
is to gull**** in the gale, for thy angst shall vex them not at
all. Yea, they shall scorn thee all the more. Rejoice in
sharing what you have to share without expectation of adoration,
knowing that sharing your treasure does not diminish your treasure
but enriches it."

- Onni 1:33

In article , Gunner
wrote:


I shoot the FN-49 (8mm) with a 220 gr cast Lovern style with rather
surprising accuracy, even though the borel looks like a back country
road in a poor county (Egyption..corrosive ammo..when I got the
gun..it had been stored for 15 yrs in a shed, after the previous owner
had fired off a 1000 rds of the worstest nastiest 8mm Id ever
fired..when it fired. I had to ram a steel rod down the barrel with a
hammer before I could see daylight). Someday Id like to find someone
to do a 308 rebarrel. I understand its supposed to be fairly easy..but
Ive never seen it done.
In the mean time..Ill just have to use the M1A

I've got a complete SAFN49 30-06 bbl in excellent shape, plus some
other bits. And no, you can't have it :-) You're too far away for a
trade to work. Pity.

PDW

According to Gunner :
On 17 May 2006 02:48:10 GMT, (DoN. Nichols)
wrote:

According to Gunner :

[ ... ]

All cartridges are reloadable. Some are just easier than others to do

Hmm ... are there any non-Berdan primed cartridges for the SKS
(7.62x39)? If not, are there any reliable ways to deprime and re-prime
those? I could imagine making a forked deprimer, but it would be a pain
to use.

Sure. Winchester, Remington and all the US makers use Boxer primed
brass. Ive got a bunch.

Good news. I far prefer the Boxer primers.

To decap berdan, check if its been ring sealed..a pressed ring of
brass around the primer..if its there..set it aside.

Does this mean that there is no hope if it has been ring sealed,
or can you process it to make that reloadable, too? (At a guess, put it
in a collet in the lathe, and turn off the crimped ring. Or would that
leave the primer pocket too shallow?

If not..simply
put the case, primer down over a hole in a piece of steel plate and
fill with water. Make a punch thats a snug fit in the case neck.
Insert punch until it sits on the water, then hit it with a hammer.

SPLOSH! out pops the primer and all the water. Only time I suggest
reloading in the heat of the summer and wearing little or nothing G

As I said -- it sounds messy. At least, water is easier to get
rid of than oil. :-)

And the cartridge is not expanded too much without a chamber
supporting it? Or do I first run it into a full-length sizing die, and
while it is there, blow out the primer?

Berdan primers are easy enough to order. For the SKS and Ak etc..get
miltary "hard" primers if you can. Some of em have sticky firing pins
that may tap the primer on going into battery and with a very
sensiticve US primer..has been known to discharge..occasionally before
lockup. Rare though in a weapon in good condition. To determine
this...let the bolt slam forwards on a live round pointed down range,
extract and examine the primer..if its got a mark on it...best be
careful in the future.

O.K. Mine seems to be in pretty good shape -- actually *very*
good shape -- but I'll perform that check next time I get to the range
with it.

Mine is one of the Russian ones, and is unusual in that it came
with a blued bayonet, instead of the usual shiny one. For night
operations of some sort, perhaps?

But frankly..reloading x39 cares is not easy if they are Berdan
primed..as they are most often steel cases with a coating on them..and
its tough on a sizing die.

O.K. I'll check that, too. Magnet here I come.

http://cgi.ebay.com/7-62-x-39-mm-Brass-Unprimed-Cases-50-Pc-NEW-Winchester_W0QQitemZ7242180085QQcategoryZ31824QQss PageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Interesting. I would have thought that eBay would be a lost
cause for anything firearms related. Thanks.

Lot of boxer primed x39 brass out there. These folks above are not the
cheapest, but are not bad.

Of course -- then I would have to worry about catching the
empties, before the NRA range swept them up into their great bin of
brass. :-)

Enjoy,
DoN.

G..all but one of my SKS's will pile them in a circle about 4' in
diameter and to my 5' 0'clock. And that one Ive never tweaked the
extractor hook.

Hmm ... At the NRA range, they bounce of the Lexan separator
between shooting stations, so the scatter factor is a bit different
there. Some go in front of the firing line, some behind me, and some
under the shooting table. (None in a pocket --yet. :-)

Now the FN-49...that puts em all across the fruited plain...even when
the gas port is adjusted to just barely pull em out of the chamber.

:-)

Btw..you can shoot 120 gr M1 Carbine cast or jacketed bullets out of
them must fine (SKS). Cast tends to not cycle the action unless you
use Blue Dot and even then its iffy and tends to fill the gas port up
with mang pretty quickly but still shoots just fine long after than.
Just turns it into a single shot until you clean out the port/piston
and go back to jacketed.

Well ... I tend to favor jacketed anyway, so that is not a
problem to me. Any choices as to the best powder to minimize fouling of
the gas port? The surplus military ammo seems to be pretty good about
that. But if I get a set of dies to fit, I'll probably need to select
for non-fouling among other factors.

I shoot the FN-49 (8mm) with a 220 gr cast Lovern style with rather
surprising accuracy, even though the borel looks like a back country
road in a poor county (Egyption..corrosive ammo..when I got the
gun..it had been stored for 15 yrs in a shed, after the previous owner
had fired off a 1000 rds of the worstest nastiest 8mm Id ever
fired..when it fired. I had to ram a steel rod down the barrel with a
hammer before I could see daylight).

How old was that ammo? Are they any better these days? When I
first started shooting rifle ammo, I was using some from Israel for the
8mm Mauser. This was back around 1963 or so, IIRC. Good boxer primer
pocket, good brass. Never a problem with it.

Someday Id like to find someone
to do a 308 rebarrel. I understand its supposed to be fairly easy..but
Ive never seen it done.
In the mean time..Ill just have to use the M1A

The FN-49 and the M1A are about the only two full sized self loading
battle rifles that are legal in California. Damit. Then there is
the Ljunman..but I value my thumb way too much.

Ouch! I don't know that one. I presume that it makes M1-thumb
dwindle to insignificance?

Anyone got a rear sight for a Argentine Calvalry Carbine?

What action was this?

Another
Round TuIt project. Probably put a peep on it before taking it out and
having that hard kicking tiny little ******* abuse me.

Thanks,
DoN.
--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

According to Gunner :
On Wed, 17 May 2006 14:37:20 GMT, Lew Hartswick
wrote:

DoN. Nichols wrote:

[ ... ]

I'm "pretty sure" I've seen some device for removing Berdan primers,
that peirced the primer and then sort of "jacked" it out. A lever
sort of thing. Been a long time ago. Anyway where would you get
the replacements?
...lew...

RCBS made em for years. I think I loaned mine out years ago and it
never came back, come to think of it....

http://website.lineone.net/~da.cushman/berdandecap.html

http://www.dave-cushman.net/shot/rcb...tructions.html

http://www.surplusrifle.com/shooting...gpt3/index.asp

Need more? G

Nope! That should do it. I think that I'll see whether I can
find the RCBS tool as a nice year-round way to do the task. If not
that, then the multi-part hydraulic approach, which will lead to some
shop-work to make the ones needed to fit the existing cartridges. I
think that I already have the right size O-rings.

Thanks again,
DoN.
--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

Yea - I got the floppy version - :-)
and then upgraded to 2000 and when installed it auto-updated on the computer.
Hidden in CABs I guess... :-)

I got the wife into it - so she could draw gardens and do real color details.
An artist friend was surprised it was a useful tool.

If you look at data sheets - many designs showing the logic concept - is visio.

Martin [ did hundreds of visio cover sheets :-) ]
Martin Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
NRA LOH & Endowment Member
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder
IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member

Mark Rand wrote:
On Mon, 15 May 2006 11:40:32 -0400, dave wrote:


looking for some type of simple 2D 'plain jane' windows software,
hopefully freeware, to help me draw numerous (all different sized)
rectangular shapes "to the same scale", given my dimensions. planning to
use it to print out the rectangles (on card stock), cut out the
rectangles with scissors, and move 'em around on a big graph paper....

if I could also 'twist, turn, drag, and drop' said icons as 'moveable
objects' within the app itself, it'd be a plus, but I don't expect that
capability in a freeware, and, anyway, it might boggle my 'shallow
learning curve'

does such an app exist? anything close?

need it to help plan how to move 1500 sq feet of toolboxes and machinery
into a 2 car garage (and to better visualize "what's gotta be
eliminated, in what order")

thanks for leads and ideas, guys,

toolie

--


I used Visio (now Micro$oft Visio). But that'll probably cost you about $100.

It has templates for mills, shapers, lathes, doors, windows etc and is good
for things like multi-layer drawings (get the wiring and the airlines in the
right place and then hide them when you want to rotate the milling machine by
15 degrees etc).


Mark Rand
RTFM

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