Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
![]() |
|
Woodworking (rec.woodworking) Discussion forum covering all aspects of working with wood. All levels of expertise are encouraged to particiapte. |
Reply |
|
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#41
![]()
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Thursday, December 8, 2016 at 7:53:14 AM UTC-8, Jack wrote:
On 12/7/2016 3:37 PM, Leon wrote: On 12/7/2016 12:40 PM, Jack wrote: On 12/6/2016 6:19 PM, Bill wrote: Jack wrote: On 12/6/2016 1:21 PM, Electric Comet wrote: anyone tried link belts on their band saw keep hearing how much better link belts are for other applications but have not seen mention of using link belts on a bandsaw No, why would I want one? None of my belts are link belts, and all my tools have been working great for 60 years. I would have replaced my DP v-belts with automotive quality but the link belts were less expensive. Hmmm, didn't know link belts were less expensive. ... I can see an advantage if you don't know what size belt you need, as I understand length is adjustable. It's hard to seek pricing on belts; the online merchants (who don't want returns) favor the link belts because one size fits all, and the local auto parts outfits (who DO have good stock) make little profit on the belts, and don't advertise their full stock. The last belt I bought, was a third the price of the equivalent link-belt. It works well, no vibration issue (but some of my pulleys, were BIG vibrators; helps to ream them before installing). For what it's worth, vibration will have different frequency for motor+drive pulley, belt, and driven pulley+blade, so it IS possible to FFT the vibration and find the guilty party. It just takes more work to digitize the rumble and strobe out the moving parts' cycle rates. |
#42
![]()
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Fri, 9 Dec 2016 09:26:49 -0500, Jack wrote:
On 12/8/2016 11:16 AM, Leon wrote: On 12/8/2016 9:53 AM, Jack wrote: Hmmm, didn't know link belts were less expensive. Seems stupid that tool manufacturers would use more expensive, inferior v belts on their expensive tools when they could be using cheap, but superior link belts. Makes the mind boggle... No, no, no, Automotive v-belts are not what you get with typical machinery. Typically industrial v-belts are cheap, automotive v-belts are typically 2~3 times more expensive but the quality is immediately visable. Industrial are designed to work on less than desirable applications. I was going to step up to either an automotive style or link belt. This is news to me. Generally "industrial" means high quality, expensive, long lasting. I actually thought automotive fan belts were cheap. I don't have a lot of experience buying belts for my tools, so I'm certainly no expert. I bought a fan belt for my jointer once, because I replaced the cabinet it sat on and needed a different length belt. Had I known link belts were cheaper or even the same price, I would have gone with that mainly because the length is adjustable. It's a bit of a pain determining the correct length of a belt, and I'd assume link belts would be the ticket. No, in general "industrial" is lower on the totem pole than "automotive", with the latter being somewhat less than "military". Automotive specs are, in general, much more rigorous than industrial. Stick with what works. ;~) My old 1983 Craftsman contractors saw had an industrial v-belt on it when I sold it about 16 years later and it ran relatively smoothly. Perhaps old belts run smoother than new belts? If my belts are anything, they are old. On the other hand, I don't get how a belt weighing a few ounces would make a 300-1000lb machine vibrate severely? Or take your old belt to an auto supply and ask for an automotive quality belt. Some automotive belts have notches cut out of the inner surface, perpendicular to the rotation of the belt, this allows the belt to bend around tighter radius pulleys. I've seen those type of belts, but don't have any. Belt wise, I've been happy with what has been working forever. If I ever need to replace one, I just might go with a link belt. I see Harbor Freight has a 5' one for $26. I guess I could get two 2 1/2' belts out of that. I'm still thinking an automotive fan belt would be cheaper, but not sure. |
#43
![]()
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Fri, 9 Dec 2016 11:18:41 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:
On 12/9/2016 9:03 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote: On Thursday, December 8, 2016 at 4:46:20 PM UTC-5, Electric Comet wrote: the link belt design may not adapt to use as a bandsaw tire but then again it might Do you mean "may not adapt *for use on* a band saw tire"? I can't imagine that you plan to use a link belt *as* a band saw tire. Yeah, that really seems off base, not totally unlike considering the use of a link belt in place of a car tire or a funnel in place of a wrench. Hammer, maybe, but never a wrench. I think it has something to do with the missing punctuation and shift keys on his computer. |
#44
![]()
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Friday, December 9, 2016 at 8:14:25 PM UTC-5, krw wrote:
On Fri, 9 Dec 2016 11:18:41 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote: On 12/9/2016 9:03 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote: On Thursday, December 8, 2016 at 4:46:20 PM UTC-5, Electric Comet wrote: the link belt design may not adapt to use as a bandsaw tire but then again it might Do you mean "may not adapt *for use on* a band saw tire"? I can't imagine that you plan to use a link belt *as* a band saw tire. Yeah, that really seems off base, not totally unlike considering the use of a link belt in place of a car tire or a funnel in place of a wrench. Hammer, maybe, but never a wrench. Hammer? Can't Touch This! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=otCpCn0l4Wo |
#45
![]()
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On 12/9/2016 7:14 PM, krw wrote:
On Fri, 9 Dec 2016 11:18:41 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote: On 12/9/2016 9:03 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote: On Thursday, December 8, 2016 at 4:46:20 PM UTC-5, Electric Comet wrote: the link belt design may not adapt to use as a bandsaw tire but then again it might Do you mean "may not adapt *for use on* a band saw tire"? I can't imagine that you plan to use a link belt *as* a band saw tire. Yeah, that really seems off base, not totally unlike considering the use of a link belt in place of a car tire or a funnel in place of a wrench. Hammer, maybe, but never a wrench. I think it has something to do with the missing punctuation and shift keys on his computer. No, he stepped in it, no amount of punctuation or word changes hides that fact. ;~) Link belts used to patch holes in the soles of your shoes might prevent you from stepping in poo. LOL |
#46
![]()
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On 12/9/16 10:18 AM, Leon wrote:
On 12/9/2016 9:03 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote: On Thursday, December 8, 2016 at 4:46:20 PM UTC-5, Electric Comet wrote: the link belt design may not adapt to use as a bandsaw tire but then again it might Do you mean "may not adapt *for use on* a band saw tire"? I can't imagine that you plan to use a link belt *as* a band saw tire. Yeah, that really seems off base, not totally unlike considering the use of a link belt in place of a car tire or a funnel in place of a wrench. Consider? You underestimate the ingenuity of the average moron.... http://www.modifiedplanet.com/garden...ment-car-fail/ -BR |
#47
![]()
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On 12/9/2016 12:11 PM, Leon wrote:
On 12/9/2016 8:26 AM, Jack wrote: Stick with what works. ;~) My old 1983 Craftsman contractors saw had an industrial v-belt on it when I sold it about 16 years later and it ran relatively smoothly. Perhaps old belts run smoother than new belts? If my belts are anything, they are old. On the other hand, I don't get how a belt weighing a few ounces would make a 300-1000lb machine vibrate severely? Think about how a 1 oz. wheel weight in the wrong place on a wheel makes the whole car shake. Industrial belts are not as precision made and or come in a variety of qualities, as automotive, they often have high spots and wide spots. Automotive belts are pretty uniform in shape Good point. On the other hand, I'm thinking about how a grossly out of balance fly cutter on my drill press does not make my DP vibrate severely. Also thinking about off centered turnings on my lathe. It takes a whole lot to get it vibrating severely or at all, far more than a lowly v-belt could possibly deliver. I'm thinking a wheel on a car is attached to springs that allow movement, unlike a stationary tool that is designed not to move so much. At any rate a fly cutter is grossly out of balance vs a v-belt, or a 1 oz tire weight. Does your drill press severely vibrate with a fly cutter? -- Jack Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life. http://jbstein.com |
#48
![]()
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On 12/9/2016 12:18 PM, Leon wrote:
On 12/9/2016 9:03 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote: On Thursday, December 8, 2016 at 4:46:20 PM UTC-5, Electric Comet wrote: the link belt design may not adapt to use as a bandsaw tire but then again it might Do you mean "may not adapt *for use on* a band saw tire"? I can't imagine that you plan to use a link belt *as* a band saw tire. Yeah, that really seems off base, not totally unlike considering the use of a link belt in place of a car tire or a funnel in place of a wrench. I'm fairly certain he doesn't know what a band saw tire is, or does. -- Jack Good judgment comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgment. http://jbstein.com |
#49
![]()
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On 12/9/2016 5:30 PM, whit3rd wrote:
On Thursday, December 8, 2016 at 7:53:14 AM UTC-8, Jack wrote: On 12/7/2016 3:37 PM, Leon wrote: On 12/7/2016 12:40 PM, Jack wrote: On 12/6/2016 6:19 PM, Bill wrote: Jack wrote: On 12/6/2016 1:21 PM, Electric Comet wrote: anyone tried link belts on their band saw keep hearing how much better link belts are for other applications but have not seen mention of using link belts on a bandsaw No, why would I want one? None of my belts are link belts, and all my tools have been working great for 60 years. I would have replaced my DP v-belts with automotive quality but the link belts were less expensive. Hmmm, didn't know link belts were less expensive. ... I can see an advantage if you don't know what size belt you need, as I understand length is adjustable. It's hard to seek pricing on belts; the online merchants (who don't want returns) favor the link belts because one size fits all, and the local auto parts outfits (who DO have good stock) make little profit on the belts, and don't advertise their full stock. The last belt I bought, was a third the price of the equivalent link-belt. It works well, no vibration issue (but some of my pulleys, were BIG vibrators; helps to ream them before installing). That's what I always thought. Leon surprised me with the link belt being less than a standard automotive fan belt. For what it's worth, vibration will have different frequency for motor+drive pulley, belt, and driven pulley+blade, so it IS possible to FFT the vibration and find the guilty party. It just takes more work to digitize the rumble and strobe out the moving parts' cycle rates. I guess if I were an orthopedic surgeon using a belt driven tool to drill a hole in a leg bone to insert a steel rod I might worry about vibration. Seriously, I never had a belt driven wood stationary tool vibrate severely from a belt, or from a pulley for that matter, other than when the three belt pulley on my planer was loose and about to fall off. That caused some severe vibration, but even then it was more noise than vibration. -- Jack Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life. http://jbstein.com |
#50
![]()
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On 12/9/2016 8:10 PM, krw wrote:
On Fri, 9 Dec 2016 09:26:49 -0500, Jack wrote: This is news to me. Generally "industrial" means high quality, expensive, long lasting. No, in general "industrial" is lower on the totem pole than "automotive", with the latter being somewhat less than "military". Automotive specs are, in general, much more rigorous than industrial. That's news to me. To me, industrial describes something designed to last a long time in continuous duty, IE; high strength, superior build lots more money. The term is used often in advertising such as "industrial strength" cleaner, so it means that to more than just me, probably about everyone or the ad men would be using "automotive strength" cleaner instead. Automotive strength is a term I never heard uttered. Probably because most people think auto's are designed to fail routinely, specifically shortly after the 3 year warranty expires, you can expect frequent failures until replacement. Military strength is synonymous with industrial strength, but cost 10 times more than industrial strength, and 20-200 times more than non-industrial strength. -- Jack You're never too old to learn something stupid. http://jbstein.com |
#51
![]()
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Jack wrote in news
![]() On 12/9/2016 5:30 PM, whit3rd wrote: On Thursday, December 8, 2016 at 7:53:14 AM UTC-8, Jack wrote: On 12/7/2016 3:37 PM, Leon wrote: On 12/7/2016 12:40 PM, Jack wrote: On 12/6/2016 6:19 PM, Bill wrote: Jack wrote: On 12/6/2016 1:21 PM, Electric Comet wrote: anyone tried link belts on their band saw keep hearing how much better link belts are for other applications but have not seen mention of using link belts on a bandsaw No, why would I want one? None of my belts are link belts, and all my tools have been working great for 60 years. I would have replaced my DP v-belts with automotive quality but the link belts were less expensive. Hmmm, didn't know link belts were less expensive. ... I can see an advantage if you don't know what size belt you need, as I understand length is adjustable. It's hard to seek pricing on belts; the online merchants (who don't want returns) favor the link belts because one size fits all, and the local auto parts outfits (who DO have good stock) make little profit on the belts, and don't advertise their full stock. The last belt I bought, was a third the price of the equivalent link-belt. It works well, no vibration issue (but some of my pulleys, were BIG vibrators; helps to ream them before installing). That's what I always thought. Leon surprised me with the link belt being less than a standard automotive fan belt. For what it's worth, vibration will have different frequency for motor+drive pulley, belt, and driven pulley+blade, so it IS possible to FFT the vibration and find the guilty party. It just takes more work to digitize the rumble and strobe out the moving parts' cycle rates. I guess if I were an orthopedic surgeon using a belt driven tool to drill a hole in a leg bone to insert a steel rod I might worry about vibration. Seriously, I never had a belt driven wood stationary tool vibrate severely from a belt, or from a pulley for that matter, other than when the three belt pulley on my planer was loose and about to fall off. That caused some severe vibration, but even then it was more noise than vibration. You may not feel the tool vibrating, but the vibration could be affecting your finish. It'd be interesting to see some before and after shots. I do know a link belt improved my bandsaw. It was worth the trip to HF. Hm... You know I might have that red one around somewhere and not on a tool. If I get bored waiting for the ice to freeze (unlikely, I've got two Christmas gifts to finish that take priority), I might swap the belt on my jointer. It's got recently sharpened and set knives, so it should be a decent test bed. Oh, btw, speaking of sharpening jointer knives... If you do it on a power grinder wear your dust mask! I didn't and am getting over a sinus/cold thing triggered by it. Puckdropper -- http://www.puckdroppersplace.us/rec.woodworking A mini archive of some of rec.woodworking's best and worst! |
#52
![]()
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On 12/9/2016 8:14 PM, krw wrote:
I think it has something to do with the missing punctuation and shift keys on his computer. You fools have been "wasting" words on EC about missing punctuation and shift keys since the day he walked on the set. To my knowledge, and his credit, he has never once responded. How stupid are yins? -- Jack Don't make me use UPPERCASE! http://jbstein.com |
#53
![]()
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On 12/10/2016 10:03 AM, Jack wrote:
On 12/9/2016 12:11 PM, Leon wrote: On 12/9/2016 8:26 AM, Jack wrote: Stick with what works. ;~) My old 1983 Craftsman contractors saw had an industrial v-belt on it when I sold it about 16 years later and it ran relatively smoothly. Perhaps old belts run smoother than new belts? If my belts are anything, they are old. On the other hand, I don't get how a belt weighing a few ounces would make a 300-1000lb machine vibrate severely? Think about how a 1 oz. wheel weight in the wrong place on a wheel makes the whole car shake. Industrial belts are not as precision made and or come in a variety of qualities, as automotive, they often have high spots and wide spots. Automotive belts are pretty uniform in shape Good point. On the other hand, I'm thinking about how a grossly out of balance fly cutter on my drill press does not make my DP vibrate severely. Also thinking about off centered turnings on my lathe. It takes a whole lot to get it vibrating severely or at all, far more than a lowly v-belt could possibly deliver. I'm thinking a wheel on a car is attached to springs that allow movement, unlike a stationary tool that is designed not to move so much. At any rate a fly cutter is grossly out of balance vs a v-belt, or a 1 oz tire weight. Does your drill press severely vibrate with a fly cutter? The farther the heavier spot is from the center of rotation the more the vibration will be amplified. Springs on a vehicle are to absorb bumps, struts/shock absorbers prevent over oscillation of the springs. BUT if you have ever seen a vehicle going down the highway/freeway and the tire is bouncing on a smooth surface that is typically an out of balance wheel/tire along with a worn out strut/shock absorber. AND a little known fact, most tires are checked for balanced at the factory before they are mounted on wheels. If you look at a quality brand new tire that has never been mounted there is almost always a small wax spot, typically red or white, stuck on the tire near the bead on the out side surface. That dot is the lite location on the tire. It is to be placed adjacent to the valve stem, the heavier spot on the wheel. ;~) I have not used a fly cutter at all. But concerning that if you upped the rpm on the fly cutter the vibration would be more noticeable. But virtually all vibration disappeared when I replaced the two factory belts with the link belts. And I might add that the vibration was not much noticeable on the lower half of the speed range with the factory belts. AND the link belts are intended to be used in a single direction so I'm mot sure how that works on lathes with a reverse feature. |
#54
![]()
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On 12/10/2016 10:46 AM, Jack wrote:
On 12/9/2016 8:10 PM, krw wrote: On Fri, 9 Dec 2016 09:26:49 -0500, Jack wrote: This is news to me. Generally "industrial" means high quality, expensive, long lasting. No, in general "industrial" is lower on the totem pole than "automotive", with the latter being somewhat less than "military". Automotive specs are, in general, much more rigorous than industrial. That's news to me. To me, industrial describes something designed to last a long time in continuous duty, IE; high strength, superior build lots more money. The term is used often in advertising such as "industrial strength" cleaner, so it means that to more than just me, probably about everyone or the ad men would be using "automotive strength" cleaner instead. Misleading for sure. In most cases industrial is a relatively top notch rating. My SS CS is the industrial version and readily apparent when compared to the other SS TS's. Another good example of misleading markings, and my pet peeve. Water proof glue ratings. TiteBond III has always been sold with a water proof rating. If you look up the water proof rating definition the word water proof is only in the title. The detailed explanation of the water proof rating only uses water resistant. And to really drive home a point, when TBIII was first introduced a magazine did a pretty extensive test on about 10 different wood glues. The results revealed that Water Resistant TB2 was more water proof than TBIII. IIRC today TB2 is now called water proof. Automotive strength is a term I never heard uttered. Probably because most people think auto's are designed to fail routinely, specifically shortly after the 3 year warranty expires, you can expect frequent failures until replacement. I'm not sure I have heard of automotive strength either, more so automotive quality and in particular regarding belts and adhesives. Adhesives, in particular windshield adhesives, have to meet a specific strength rating. Military strength is synonymous with industrial strength, but cost 10 times more than industrial strength, and 20-200 times more than non-industrial strength. LOL, I think Military rated or strength is probably pretty high but probably more of an indicator that the buyer, the government, is not concerned with what it is going to spend. Remember those military grade toilet seats? ;~) |
#55
![]()
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On 12/10/2016 11:00 AM, Jack wrote:
On 12/9/2016 8:14 PM, krw wrote: I think it has something to do with the missing punctuation and shift keys on his computer. You fools have been "wasting" words on EC about missing punctuation and shift keys since the day he walked on the set. To my knowledge, and his credit, he has never once responded. How stupid are yins? EC has certainly held his own. ;~) I don't see his posts anymore unless some one responds to him. |
#56
![]()
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Saturday, December 10, 2016 at 12:01:10 PM UTC-5, Jack wrote:
On 12/9/2016 8:14 PM, krw wrote: I think it has something to do with the missing punctuation and shift keys on his computer. You fools have been "wasting" words on EC about missing punctuation and shift keys since the day he walked on the set. To my knowledge, and his credit, he has never once responded. How stupid are yins? That's the attitude I like to see: Give up! I'm sure glad I never gave up on my four (now well rounded adult) kids or any of the hundreds of kids that I've worked with via numerous volunteer activities over the years. You think they aren't listening, you think they will never change, you almost think it's not worth the effort. Then suddenly you look around and you see them becoming the person you knew they could be. Not all of them, but since none of them carry signs saying "I'll never get it" you can't give up on any of them. I'm willing to waste a million words on the hope that just a few of those words get through. |
#57
![]()
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Sat, 10 Dec 2016 11:46:58 -0500, Jack wrote:
On 12/9/2016 8:10 PM, krw wrote: On Fri, 9 Dec 2016 09:26:49 -0500, Jack wrote: This is news to me. Generally "industrial" means high quality, expensive, long lasting. No, in general "industrial" is lower on the totem pole than "automotive", with the latter being somewhat less than "military". Automotive specs are, in general, much more rigorous than industrial. That's news to me. To me, industrial describes something designed to last a long time in continuous duty, IE; high strength, superior build lots more money. The term is used often in advertising such as "industrial strength" cleaner, so it means that to more than just me, probably about everyone or the ad men would be using "automotive strength" cleaner instead. Automotive is "continuous duty" and in a really harsh environment. Industrial environments are downright benign, by comparison. Automotive strength is a term I never heard uttered. Probably because most people think auto's are designed to fail routinely, specifically shortly after the 3 year warranty expires, you can expect frequent failures until replacement. Utter nonsense. Military strength is synonymous with industrial strength, but cost 10 times more than industrial strength, and 20-200 times more than non-industrial strength. Nope. The automotive environment is really nasty. |
#58
![]()
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Sat, 10 Dec 2016 14:02:53 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote: On 12/10/2016 10:46 AM, Jack wrote: On 12/9/2016 8:10 PM, krw wrote: On Fri, 9 Dec 2016 09:26:49 -0500, Jack wrote: This is news to me. Generally "industrial" means high quality, expensive, long lasting. No, in general "industrial" is lower on the totem pole than "automotive", with the latter being somewhat less than "military". Automotive specs are, in general, much more rigorous than industrial. That's news to me. To me, industrial describes something designed to last a long time in continuous duty, IE; high strength, superior build lots more money. The term is used often in advertising such as "industrial strength" cleaner, so it means that to more than just me, probably about everyone or the ad men would be using "automotive strength" cleaner instead. Misleading for sure. In most cases industrial is a relatively top notch rating. My SS CS is the industrial version and readily apparent when compared to the other SS TS's. Do they make an automotive grade Saw Stop? ;-) Another good example of misleading markings, and my pet peeve. Water proof glue ratings. TiteBond III has always been sold with a water proof rating. If you look up the water proof rating definition the word water proof is only in the title. The detailed explanation of the water proof rating only uses water resistant. I don't know who they're fooling. Do the great unwashed buy TiteBond? And to really drive home a point, when TBIII was first introduced a magazine did a pretty extensive test on about 10 different wood glues. The results revealed that Water Resistant TB2 was more water proof than TBIII. IIRC today TB2 is now called water proof. I prefer TB2, anyway. Automotive strength is a term I never heard uttered. Probably because most people think auto's are designed to fail routinely, specifically shortly after the 3 year warranty expires, you can expect frequent failures until replacement. I'm not sure I have heard of automotive strength either, more so automotive quality and in particular regarding belts and adhesives. Adhesives, in particular windshield adhesives, have to meet a specific strength rating. "Automotive strength", no, but certainly "automotive rated" or "automotive qualified". Military strength is synonymous with industrial strength, but cost 10 times more than industrial strength, and 20-200 times more than non-industrial strength. LOL, I think Military rated or strength is probably pretty high but probably more of an indicator that the buyer, the government, is not concerned with what it is going to spend. Remember those military grade toilet seats? ;~) There are strict environmental, test, and tracability requirements for both "automotive" and "military" rated products. That costs. BTW, the infamous "hammer" and "toilet seat" were a product of federal government spending rules. ...or more precisely, an attempt to get around them, to get something done. |
#59
![]()
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Fri, 9 Dec 2016 19:44:25 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote: On Friday, December 9, 2016 at 8:14:25 PM UTC-5, krw wrote: On Fri, 9 Dec 2016 11:18:41 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote: On 12/9/2016 9:03 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote: On Thursday, December 8, 2016 at 4:46:20 PM UTC-5, Electric Comet wrote: the link belt design may not adapt to use as a bandsaw tire but then again it might Do you mean "may not adapt *for use on* a band saw tire"? I can't imagine that you plan to use a link belt *as* a band saw tire. Yeah, that really seems off base, not totally unlike considering the use of a link belt in place of a car tire or a funnel in place of a wrench. Hammer, maybe, but never a wrench. Hammer? Sure, when the world is a nail... Can't Touch This! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=otCpCn0l4Wo Can't watch that. |
#60
![]()
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Sat, 10 Dec 2016 12:00:57 -0500, Jack wrote:
On 12/9/2016 8:14 PM, krw wrote: I think it has something to do with the missing punctuation and shift keys on his computer. You fools have been "wasting" words on EC about missing punctuation and shift keys since the day he walked on the set. To my knowledge, and his credit, he has never once responded. Incapable. How stupid are yins? It's not a competition. You've won, hands down. |
#61
![]()
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
The link belt is used as a power belt on Conveyor systems.
Martin On 12/10/2016 10:55 AM, Puckdropper wrote: Jack wrote in news ![]() On 12/9/2016 5:30 PM, whit3rd wrote: On Thursday, December 8, 2016 at 7:53:14 AM UTC-8, Jack wrote: On 12/7/2016 3:37 PM, Leon wrote: On 12/7/2016 12:40 PM, Jack wrote: On 12/6/2016 6:19 PM, Bill wrote: Jack wrote: On 12/6/2016 1:21 PM, Electric Comet wrote: anyone tried link belts on their band saw keep hearing how much better link belts are for other applications but have not seen mention of using link belts on a bandsaw No, why would I want one? None of my belts are link belts, and all my tools have been working great for 60 years. I would have replaced my DP v-belts with automotive quality but the link belts were less expensive. Hmmm, didn't know link belts were less expensive. ... I can see an advantage if you don't know what size belt you need, as I understand length is adjustable. It's hard to seek pricing on belts; the online merchants (who don't want returns) favor the link belts because one size fits all, and the local auto parts outfits (who DO have good stock) make little profit on the belts, and don't advertise their full stock. The last belt I bought, was a third the price of the equivalent link-belt. It works well, no vibration issue (but some of my pulleys, were BIG vibrators; helps to ream them before installing). That's what I always thought. Leon surprised me with the link belt being less than a standard automotive fan belt. For what it's worth, vibration will have different frequency for motor+drive pulley, belt, and driven pulley+blade, so it IS possible to FFT the vibration and find the guilty party. It just takes more work to digitize the rumble and strobe out the moving parts' cycle rates. I guess if I were an orthopedic surgeon using a belt driven tool to drill a hole in a leg bone to insert a steel rod I might worry about vibration. Seriously, I never had a belt driven wood stationary tool vibrate severely from a belt, or from a pulley for that matter, other than when the three belt pulley on my planer was loose and about to fall off. That caused some severe vibration, but even then it was more noise than vibration. You may not feel the tool vibrating, but the vibration could be affecting your finish. It'd be interesting to see some before and after shots. I do know a link belt improved my bandsaw. It was worth the trip to HF. Hm... You know I might have that red one around somewhere and not on a tool. If I get bored waiting for the ice to freeze (unlikely, I've got two Christmas gifts to finish that take priority), I might swap the belt on my jointer. It's got recently sharpened and set knives, so it should be a decent test bed. Oh, btw, speaking of sharpening jointer knives... If you do it on a power grinder wear your dust mask! I didn't and am getting over a sinus/cold thing triggered by it. Puckdropper |
#62
![]()
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On 12/10/2016 11:55 AM, Puckdropper wrote:
Jack wrote in news ![]() On 12/9/2016 5:30 PM, whit3rd wrote: On Thursday, December 8, 2016 at 7:53:14 AM UTC-8, Jack wrote: On 12/7/2016 3:37 PM, Leon wrote: On 12/7/2016 12:40 PM, Jack wrote: On 12/6/2016 6:19 PM, Bill wrote: Jack wrote: On 12/6/2016 1:21 PM, Electric Comet wrote: anyone tried link belts on their band saw keep hearing how much better link belts are for other applications but have not seen mention of using link belts on a bandsaw No, why would I want one? None of my belts are link belts, and all my tools have been working great for 60 years. I would have replaced my DP v-belts with automotive quality but the link belts were less expensive. Hmmm, didn't know link belts were less expensive. ... I can see an advantage if you don't know what size belt you need, as I understand length is adjustable. It's hard to seek pricing on belts; the online merchants (who don't want returns) favor the link belts because one size fits all, and the local auto parts outfits (who DO have good stock) make little profit on the belts, and don't advertise their full stock. The last belt I bought, was a third the price of the equivalent link-belt. It works well, no vibration issue (but some of my pulleys, were BIG vibrators; helps to ream them before installing). That's what I always thought. Leon surprised me with the link belt being less than a standard automotive fan belt. For what it's worth, vibration will have different frequency for motor+drive pulley, belt, and driven pulley+blade, so it IS possible to FFT the vibration and find the guilty party. It just takes more work to digitize the rumble and strobe out the moving parts' cycle rates. I guess if I were an orthopedic surgeon using a belt driven tool to drill a hole in a leg bone to insert a steel rod I might worry about vibration. Seriously, I never had a belt driven wood stationary tool vibrate severely from a belt, or from a pulley for that matter, other than when the three belt pulley on my planer was loose and about to fall off. That caused some severe vibration, but even then it was more noise than vibration. You may not feel the tool vibrating, but the vibration could be affecting your finish. It'd be interesting to see some before and after shots. I would as well. I don't have any after shots, as I don't own any link belts, and I'm not running out to get one to see if it impacts the finish that I have never had a problem with. I do know a link belt improved my bandsaw. It was worth the trip to HF. Do you have any before and after shots? I'd love to see the difference. BS are not known for smooth finishes at any rate. Hm... You know I might have that red one around somewhere and not on a tool. If I get bored waiting for the ice to freeze (unlikely, I've got two Christmas gifts to finish that take priority), I might swap the belt on my jointer. It's got recently sharpened and set knives, so it should be a decent test bed. I doubt it would effect the finish at all. Put a nickle on edge with a regular belt, and then with the link belt, that might detect some difference. Oh, btw, speaking of sharpening jointer knives... If you do it on a power grinder wear your dust mask! I didn't and am getting over a sinus/cold thing triggered by it. I have a power grinder and never wear a mask when grinding steel. I don't get many colds. Have no clue what triggered the few I've had. Maybe you're allergic to the stuff of which your wheel is made. -- Jack Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life. http://jbstein.com |
#63
![]()
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On 12/10/2016 2:49 PM, Leon wrote:
On 12/10/2016 10:03 AM, Jack wrote: Good point. On the other hand, I'm thinking about how a grossly out of balance fly cutter on my drill press does not make my DP vibrate severely. Also thinking about off centered turnings on my lathe. It takes a whole lot to get it vibrating severely or at all, far more than a lowly v-belt could possibly deliver. I'm thinking a wheel on a car is attached to springs that allow movement, unlike a stationary tool that is designed not to move so much. At any rate a fly cutter is grossly out of balance vs a v-belt, or a 1 oz tire weight. Does your drill press severely vibrate with a fly cutter? The farther the heavier spot is from the center of rotation the more the vibration will be amplified. I have not used a fly cutter at all. But concerning that if you upped the rpm on the fly cutter the vibration would be more noticeable. Absolutely. But virtually all vibration disappeared when I replaced the two factory belts with the link belts. And I might add that the vibration was not much noticeable on the lower half of the speed range with the factory belts. Maybe that's it, I run my drill press at medium speed 99% of the time. I slow it down only for the fly cutter as it seems unsafe at higher speeds and I think I could set wood on fire at high speeds. Fly cutters turn my safest tool into the most dangerous, imo. I'm not sure I would trust my self with a variable speed at the touch of a button DP like the NOVA. Yes, I once started my DP with the key in the chuck... I also started my lathe with the key in the chuck, I think I did that 2x, which is incredibly stupid. The lathe I attributed to old age stupidness. The drill press I was young and in a hurry. AND the link belts are intended to be used in a single direction so I'm mot sure how that works on lathes with a reverse feature. Good to know. The only belted tool I have that goes in reverse is my shaper. If any tool vibrates it would be that one as it turns at high speed. My lathe doesn't vibrate enough to notice even when turning an off centered piece. The belt on my lathe is loose as well, so it will slip if I jam something up. Not sure what impact a linked belt would have on that? I've done the nickle test on my table saw once because people here (you) mentioned it, and it passed, which I thought it would. I think all my tools would pass once up to speed. Start up I'd expect would drop the nickle on most of my tools, but that's not a belt vibration issue. -- Jack Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life. http://jbstein.com |
#64
![]()
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On 12/11/2016 9:33 AM, Jack wrote:
On 12/10/2016 2:49 PM, Leon wrote: On 12/10/2016 10:03 AM, Jack wrote: Good point. On the other hand, I'm thinking about how a grossly out of balance fly cutter on my drill press does not make my DP vibrate severely. Also thinking about off centered turnings on my lathe. It takes a whole lot to get it vibrating severely or at all, far more than a lowly v-belt could possibly deliver. I'm thinking a wheel on a car is attached to springs that allow movement, unlike a stationary tool that is designed not to move so much. At any rate a fly cutter is grossly out of balance vs a v-belt, or a 1 oz tire weight. Does your drill press severely vibrate with a fly cutter? The farther the heavier spot is from the center of rotation the more the vibration will be amplified. I have not used a fly cutter at all. But concerning that if you upped the rpm on the fly cutter the vibration would be more noticeable. Absolutely. But virtually all vibration disappeared when I replaced the two factory belts with the link belts. And I might add that the vibration was not much noticeable on the lower half of the speed range with the factory belts. Maybe that's it, I run my drill press at medium speed 99% of the time. I slow it down only for the fly cutter as it seems unsafe at higher speeds and I think I could set wood on fire at high speeds. Fly cutters turn my safest tool into the most dangerous, imo. I am certain the lower speeds hide a lot of potential for vibration. If nothing else fly cutters have an added element of danger because of the asymmetrical shape, easy to get your fingers in the way. I'm not sure I would trust my self with a variable speed at the touch of a button DP like the NOVA. Well that would certainly be something to consider but like most new tools/equipment there is a "getting to know you" period. You probably would only make that mistake one time. ;~) Yes, I once started my DP with the key in the chuck... I also started my lathe with the key in the chuck, I think I did that 2x, which is incredibly stupid. The lathe I attributed to old age stupidness. The drill press I was young and in a hurry. Well I don't think stupid or old for either, just a normal human. We don't learn everything by reading the cautionary lables, sometimes experience from the school of hard knocks is a frequent teacher. The safety check list is just too long to put into print. Now if you continue to make the mistake, that would be a different matter. LOL AND the link belts are intended to be used in a single direction so I'm mot sure how that works on lathes with a reverse feature. Good to know. The only belted tool I have that goes in reverse is my shaper. If any tool vibrates it would be that one as it turns at high speed. My lathe doesn't vibrate enough to notice even when turning an off centered piece. The belt on my lathe is loose as well, so it will slip if I jam something up. Not sure what impact a linked belt would have on that? I certainly would not switch belts for the sake of doing so, only to eliminate a vibration introduced by a belt. I've done the nickle test on my table saw once because people here (you) mentioned it, and it passed, which I thought it would. I think all my tools would pass once up to speed. Start up I'd expect would drop the nickle on most of my tools, but that's not a belt vibration issue. I was tickled, for the entertainment value, of doing the "quarter" test on my TS. It passed during start up too. IIRC it took me longer to balance the quarter than to conduct the test. LOL and 700lbs of mass does not hurt. FWIW my saw has two automotive style serpentine belts, a belt for the motor to a middle double pulley and another from that pulley to the arbor pulley. I'm certain that the two vs. a single long belt help to keep the vibration down. https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/ |
#65
![]()
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On 12/10/2016 3:02 PM, Leon wrote:
Another good example of misleading markings, and my pet peeve. Water proof glue ratings. TiteBond III has always been sold with a water proof rating. If you look up the water proof rating definition the word water proof is only in the title. The detailed explanation of the water proof rating only uses water resistant. And to really drive home a point, when TBIII was first introduced a magazine did a pretty extensive test on about 10 different wood glues. The results revealed that Water Resistant TB2 was more water proof than TBIII. IIRC today TB2 is now called water proof. At the risk of wasting too many words for those on a word limit, I built a compost bin outside a few years ago. Across the front I have 2x4's hinged on one end, and glued in pegs on the other end. I used Titebond III to glue in the pegs. I coated the top of the pegs with the glue just to see what would happen, and keep water out of the peg holes. Well, after about 3 years, the glue holding the pegs in came loose, the coating on top also came loose, but did not dissolve. I gave the glue a fail on that one. Fortunately, the pegs really didn't need the glue, they are a tight fit. I'm not sure I have heard of automotive strength either, more so automotive quality and in particular regarding belts and adhesives. Adhesives, in particular windshield adhesives, have to meet a specific strength rating. I understand what you meant. It was Kevin who wasted words and time stating, and I quote: ************ "No, in general "industrial" is lower on the totem pole than "automotive", with the latter being somewhat less than "military". Automotive specs are, in general, much more rigorous than industrial." ************ This is just wrong, so I wasted words explaining it to him. Not to worry however, I'm not close to running out of words. As far as you stating automotive belts are higher quality than industrial, I find that unusual, not necessarily wrong. When I bought the belt for my jointer 10 years ago, I vaguely recall the guy asking what I was using it for, and I'm pretty sure he had two belts, one for cars, one for machinery. It was too long ago for me to remember what he said, or what I bought. I could have used another "link" as I got the belt a bit tight for my likes, which imo is a good reason to buy a linked belt. I don't think the parts store sold them. Military strength is synonymous with industrial strength, but cost 10 times more than industrial strength, and 20-200 times more than non-industrial strength. LOL, I think Military rated or strength is probably pretty high but probably more of an indicator that the buyer, the government, is not concerned with what it is going to spend. Remember those military grade toilet seats? ;~) Vaguely. Also the $20,000 hammers. The hammers I think were due to balancing the books. Business worries about balancing books as money has real meaning to them (not to mention the IRS). The military could care less, so to balance the books, which are off by a few measly millions, they just change the hammer expense to $20,000 each to get things in line. Poof, books are balanced. -- Jack Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life. http://jbstein.com |
#66
![]()
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On 12/10/2016 3:06 PM, Leon wrote:
On 12/10/2016 11:00 AM, Jack wrote: On 12/9/2016 8:14 PM, krw wrote: I think it has something to do with the missing punctuation and shift keys on his computer. You fools have been "wasting" words on EC about missing punctuation and shift keys since the day he walked on the set. To my knowledge, and his credit, he has never once responded. How stupid are yins? EC has certainly held his own. ;~) I don't see his posts anymore unless some one responds to him. I don't think he's all that bad. He seems to know little, but starts a ton of discussions. Other than those worried about running out of words, someone needs to start discussions, or we'd be looking at blank screens. I don't give a rats ass about his punctuation. If nothing else, it gives those with too many words left something to bitch about. I keep waiting for them to run out of words, but they seem to have a deep reserve for bitching about his abuse of the kings english. EC completely ignores them, something both hard to do, yet very enjoyable to me as it must really **** them off. I'm not a fan of the spell cops. As far as "Bozo bins" I don't believe in censorship much, and imo, generally Bozo's have Bozo bins. I have no need to force myself to not read a post. -- Jack Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life. http://jbstein.com |
#67
![]()
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On 12/10/2016 4:09 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Saturday, December 10, 2016 at 12:01:10 PM UTC-5, Jack wrote: On 12/9/2016 8:14 PM, krw wrote: I think it has something to do with the missing punctuation and shift keys on his computer. You fools have been "wasting" words on EC about missing punctuation and shift keys since the day he walked on the set. To my knowledge, and his credit, he has never once responded. How stupid are yins? That's the attitude I like to see: Give up! I'm sure glad I never gave up on my four (now well rounded adult) kids or any of the hundreds of kids that I've worked with via numerous volunteer activities over the years. You think they aren't listening, you think they will never change, you almost think it's not worth the effort. Then suddenly you look around and you see them becoming the person you knew they could be. Not all of them, but since none of them carry signs saying "I'll never get it" you can't give up on any of them. I'm willing to waste a million words on the hope that just a few of those words get through. I have to assume you are wasting all these words tongue in cheek? Do you really think those jumping on EC for incorrect punctuation and capitalization are trying to teach him anything? He'd be in the "Kings English" newsgroup if he were interested, and would waste a few words replying to the nonsense, but he doesn't. No, the bitching is from frustrated grade school english teachers, or wannabe's, looking for something non-wood related to bitch about. My guess is EC has a hair up his ass for some old grade school english schoolmarm, and is loving every minute of it. -- Jack One hard decision in life is choosing to walk away or try harder. http://jbstein.com |
#68
![]()
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]() "Jack" wrote in message news ![]() On 12/10/2016 11:55 AM, Puckdropper wrote: I do know a link belt improved my bandsaw. It was worth the trip to HF. Do you have any before and after shots? I'd love to see the difference. BS are not known for smooth finishes at any rate. If the whole machine is vibrating the blade is moving with it. Link belts don't change the quality of the cut, that depends upon the blade and - possibly - movement unique to the blade (wheels, tires, guides). What link belts do is cut down vibration due to power transmission. |
#69
![]()
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Sun, 11 Dec 2016 11:17:28 -0500, Jack wrote:
On 12/10/2016 3:02 PM, Leon wrote: Another good example of misleading markings, and my pet peeve. Water proof glue ratings. TiteBond III has always been sold with a water proof rating. If you look up the water proof rating definition the word water proof is only in the title. The detailed explanation of the water proof rating only uses water resistant. And to really drive home a point, when TBIII was first introduced a magazine did a pretty extensive test on about 10 different wood glues. The results revealed that Water Resistant TB2 was more water proof than TBIII. IIRC today TB2 is now called water proof. At the risk of wasting Too many words. |
#70
![]()
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Sun, 11 Dec 2016 12:04:03 -0500, Jack wrote:
On 12/10/2016 4:09 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote: On Saturday, December 10, 2016 at 12:01:10 PM UTC-5, Jack wrote: On 12/9/2016 8:14 PM, krw wrote: I think it has something to do with the missing punctuation and shift keys on his computer. You fools have been "wasting" words on EC about missing punctuation and shift keys since the day he walked on the set. To my knowledge, and his credit, he has never once responded. How stupid are yins? That's the attitude I like to see: Give up! I'm sure glad I never gave up on my four (now well rounded adult) kids or any of the hundreds of kids that I've worked with via numerous volunteer activities over the years. You think they aren't listening, you think they will never change, you almost think it's not worth the effort. Then suddenly you look around and you see them becoming the person you knew they could be. Not all of them, but since none of them carry signs saying "I'll never get it" you can't give up on any of them. I'm willing to waste a million words on the hope that just a few of those words get through. I have to assume you are wasting all these words tongue in cheek? Do you really think those jumping on EC for incorrect punctuation and capitalization are trying to teach him anything? Yes. He's obviously too thick, though. He'd be in the "Kings English" newsgroup if he were interested, and would waste a few words replying to the nonsense, but he doesn't. No, the bitching is from frustrated grade school english teachers, or wannabe's, looking for something non-wood related to bitch about. It's not about the "Kings English". People don't generally bitch about grammar or punctuation (errors). Capitalization and punctuation are all about making it easier for your reader. It's really about respect for your reader. My guess is EC has a hair up his ass for some old grade school english schoolmarm, and is loving every minute of it. No just a typical millennial - self-centered pampered brat. |
#71
![]()
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Sunday, December 11, 2016 at 12:04:16 PM UTC-5, Jack wrote:
On 12/10/2016 4:09 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote: On Saturday, December 10, 2016 at 12:01:10 PM UTC-5, Jack wrote: On 12/9/2016 8:14 PM, krw wrote: I think it has something to do with the missing punctuation and shift keys on his computer. You fools have been "wasting" words on EC about missing punctuation and shift keys since the day he walked on the set. To my knowledge, and his credit, he has never once responded. How stupid are yins? That's the attitude I like to see: Give up! I'm sure glad I never gave up on my four (now well rounded adult) kids or any of the hundreds of kids that I've worked with via numerous volunteer activities over the years. You think they aren't listening, you think they will never change, you almost think it's not worth the effort. Then suddenly you look around and you see them becoming the person you knew they could be. Not all of them, but since none of them carry signs saying "I'll never get it" you can't give up on any of them. I'm willing to waste a million words on the hope that just a few of those words get through. I have to assume you are wasting all these words tongue in cheek? Do you really think those jumping on EC for incorrect punctuation and capitalization are trying to teach him anything? He'd be in the "Kings English" newsgroup if he were interested, and would waste a few words replying to the nonsense, but he doesn't. No, the bitching is from frustrated grade school english teachers, or wannabe's, looking for something non-wood related to bitch about. My guess is EC has a hair up his ass for some old grade school english schoolmarm, and is loving every minute of it. 2 assumptions and a guess. More wasted words. |
#72
![]()
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]() |
#73
![]()
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On 12/11/2016 6:48 PM, krw wrote:
On Sun, 11 Dec 2016 12:04:03 -0500, Jack wrote: I have to assume you are wasting all these words tongue in cheek? Do you really think those jumping on EC for incorrect punctuation and capitalization are trying to teach him anything? Yes. He's obviously too thick, though. Not nearly as thick as those bitching about it for months on end... He'd be in the "Kings English" newsgroup if he were interested, and would waste a few words replying to the nonsense, but he doesn't. No, the bitching is from frustrated grade school english teachers, or wannabe's, looking for something non-wood related to bitch about. It's not about the "Kings English". People don't generally bitch about grammar or punctuation (errors). Capitalization and punctuation are all about making it easier for your reader. It's really about respect for your reader. I have no problem reading his posts w/o punctuation. I can see how one with severe reading comprehension issues might stumble, but a normal reader can easily read far worse stuff than his. If anyone needs to respect the reader, it's those bitching about something that "obviously" is not going to change, particularly those also worrying about "wasting words". You're right that people don't generally bitch about this stuff, because it is always more annoying than the offense. It's exactly why the spell cops are disliked so much. My guess is EC has a hair up his ass for some old grade school english schoolmarm, and is loving every minute of it. No just a typical millennial - self-centered pampered brat. Perhaps, or, perhaps he simply enjoys antagonizing the priggish schoolmarms running around bothering everyone with their silly words wasted on getting him to conform to the kings english. -- Jack Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life. http://jbstein.com |
#74
![]()
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On 12/11/2016 7:13 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sunday, December 11, 2016 at 12:04:16 PM UTC-5, Jack wrote: On 12/10/2016 4:09 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote: On Saturday, December 10, 2016 at 12:01:10 PM UTC-5, Jack wrote: On 12/9/2016 8:14 PM, krw wrote: I think it has something to do with the missing punctuation and shift keys on his computer. You fools have been "wasting" words on EC about missing punctuation and shift keys since the day he walked on the set. To my knowledge, and his credit, he has never once responded. How stupid are yins? That's the attitude I like to see: Give up! I'm sure glad I never gave up on my four (now well rounded adult) kids or any of the hundreds of kids that I've worked with via numerous volunteer activities over the years. You think they aren't listening, you think they will never change, you almost think it's not worth the effort. Then suddenly you look around and you see them becoming the person you knew they could be. Not all of them, but since none of them carry signs saying "I'll never get it" you can't give up on any of them. I'm willing to waste a million words on the hope that just a few of those words get through. I have to assume you are wasting all these words tongue in cheek? Do you really think those jumping on EC for incorrect punctuation and capitalization are trying to teach him anything? He'd be in the "Kings English" newsgroup if he were interested, and would waste a few words replying to the nonsense, but he doesn't. No, the bitching is from frustrated grade school english teachers, or wannabe's, looking for something non-wood related to bitch about. My guess is EC has a hair up his ass for some old grade school english schoolmarm, and is loving every minute of it. 2 assumptions and a guess. More wasted words. Hard not to make assumptions when responding to one guessing and making assumptions. Not to worry though, I'm not close to running out of words. -- Jack Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life. http://jbstein.com |
#75
![]()
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On 12/11/2016 10:56 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
LOL, I think Military rated or strength is probably pretty high but probably more of an indicator that the buyer, the government, is not concerned with what it is going to spend. Remember those military grade toilet seats? ;~) When the military pays a ludicrous price for some commonplace object it's generally due to some kind of small/minority business set aside, so instead of calling up Kohler or whoever and saying "send us a truckload of toilet seats" they instead have to bring some company that has never seen a toilet seat or a military contract before up to speed in order to meet a social objective imposed by the politicians. But of course the politicians never take the heat for it. Some of those cost are back door legit. Project director: I'm approved for $200,000 for this project as bid but I need you to do more but cannot get approval. We do need spare part that would go on another budget. Contractor: Sure, I'll gladly do that extra work at no extra charge. BTW, do you need spare lightbulbs? They are $500 each. |
#76
![]()
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On 12/11/2016 12:10 PM, dadiOH wrote:
"Jack" wrote in message news ![]() On 12/10/2016 11:55 AM, Puckdropper wrote: I do know a link belt improved my bandsaw. It was worth the trip to HF. Do you have any before and after shots? I'd love to see the difference. BS are not known for smooth finishes at any rate. If the whole machine is vibrating the blade is moving with it. Link belts don't change the quality of the cut, that depends upon the blade and - possibly - movement unique to the blade (wheels, tires, guides). What link belts do is cut down vibration due to power transmission. BUT if a machine vibrates it is highly likely the blade will vibrate at a different rate/amount. The blade is spinning and because blades flex there would not be a direct absolute movement in concert with the rest of the machine. On a planer or joiner or DP maybe no problem. But certainly on a TS or BS. |
#77
![]()
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Mon, 12 Dec 2016 17:52:13 -0500, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 12/11/2016 10:56 PM, J. Clarke wrote: LOL, I think Military rated or strength is probably pretty high but probably more of an indicator that the buyer, the government, is not concerned with what it is going to spend. Remember those military grade toilet seats? ;~) When the military pays a ludicrous price for some commonplace object it's generally due to some kind of small/minority business set aside, so instead of calling up Kohler or whoever and saying "send us a truckload of toilet seats" they instead have to bring some company that has never seen a toilet seat or a military contract before up to speed in order to meet a social objective imposed by the politicians. But of course the politicians never take the heat for it. Some of those cost are back door legit. Project director: I'm approved for $200,000 for this project as bid but I need you to do more but cannot get approval. We do need spare part that would go on another budget. Contractor: Sure, I'll gladly do that extra work at no extra charge. BTW, do you need spare lightbulbs? They are $500 each. That's exactly what happened with the famous hammer and the toilet seat. Not strictly legal but it would have cost even more to do it "legitimately". |
#78
![]()
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Mon, 12 Dec 2016 10:41:56 -0500, Jack wrote:
On 12/11/2016 6:48 PM, krw wrote: On Sun, 11 Dec 2016 12:04:03 -0500, Jack wrote: I have to assume you are wasting all these words tongue in cheek? Do you really think those jumping on EC for incorrect punctuation and capitalization are trying to teach him anything? Yes. He's obviously too thick, though. Not nearly as thick as those bitching about it for months on end... Apparently some are even thicker than either. He'd be in the "Kings English" newsgroup if he were interested, and would waste a few words replying to the nonsense, but he doesn't. No, the bitching is from frustrated grade school english teachers, or wannabe's, looking for something non-wood related to bitch about. It's not about the "Kings English". People don't generally bitch about grammar or punctuation (errors). Capitalization and punctuation are all about making it easier for your reader. It's really about respect for your reader. I have no problem reading his posts w/o punctuation. I can see how one with severe reading comprehension issues might stumble, but a normal reader can easily read far worse stuff than his. If anyone needs to respect the reader, it's those bitching about something that "obviously" is not going to change, particularly those also worrying about "wasting words". Aren't you just special! You're right that people don't generally bitch about this stuff, because it is always more annoying than the offense. It's exactly why the spell cops are disliked so much. Punctuation and capitalization is far worse than a little tupo. My guess is EC has a hair up his ass for some old grade school english schoolmarm, and is loving every minute of it. No just a typical millennial - self-centered pampered brat. Perhaps, or, perhaps he simply enjoys antagonizing the priggish schoolmarms running around bothering everyone with their silly words wasted on getting him to conform to the kings english. No, just a self-centered asshole. You should know the type well. |
#79
![]()
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Monday, December 12, 2016 at 8:09:05 PM UTC-5, krw wrote:
On Mon, 12 Dec 2016 10:41:56 -0500, Jack wrote: On 12/11/2016 6:48 PM, krw wrote: On Sun, 11 Dec 2016 12:04:03 -0500, Jack wrote: I have to assume you are wasting all these words tongue in cheek? Do you really think those jumping on EC for incorrect punctuation and capitalization are trying to teach him anything? Yes. He's obviously too thick, though. Not nearly as thick as those bitching about it for months on end... Apparently some are even thicker than either. He'd be in the "Kings English" newsgroup if he were interested, and would waste a few words replying to the nonsense, but he doesn't. No, the bitching is from frustrated grade school english teachers, or wannabe's, looking for something non-wood related to bitch about. It's not about the "Kings English". People don't generally bitch about grammar or punctuation (errors). Capitalization and punctuation are all about making it easier for your reader. It's really about respect for your reader. I have no problem reading his posts w/o punctuation. I can see how one with severe reading comprehension issues might stumble, but a normal reader can easily read far worse stuff than his. If anyone needs to respect the reader, it's those bitching about something that "obviously" is not going to change, particularly those also worrying about "wasting words". Aren't you just special! You're right that people don't generally bitch about this stuff, because it is always more annoying than the offense. It's exactly why the spell cops are disliked so much. Punctuation and capitalization is far worse than a little tupo. My guess is EC has a hair up his ass for some old grade school english schoolmarm, and is loving every minute of it. No just a typical millennial - self-centered pampered brat. Perhaps, or, perhaps he simply enjoys antagonizing the priggish schoolmarms running around bothering everyone with their silly words wasted on getting him to conform to the kings english. No, just a self-centered asshole. You should know the type well. :-) |
Reply |
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|