Not too much and no smell, but it looks like the motor is about to go. What are my options? I hate to say good-bye to an old friend.

Mike

If it's a direct drive you may find someone to rebuild / rewind the motor.
If it's a belt drive, lots of options to having that motor rebuilt to a
number of replacements available. Need to know what type of mount, shaft
size, length, etc. Sears Parts may even have a replacement.

Bob S.

"Michael" wrote in message
...

Not too much and no smell, but it looks like the motor is about to go. What
are my options? I hate to say good-bye to an old friend.

Mike

"Michael" wrote:

Not too much and no smell, but it looks like the motor is about to
go. What are my options? I hate to say good-bye to an old friend.
----------------------------------------------------------
A replacement (You need one) 2HP, 3450RPM, cap start, cap run,
120/240V motor is available from your local Grainger.

Found a Model 5K961 from Grainger for $450.

Last time I bought one it was around $300 but that was then and this
is now.

BTDT, don't need the T-Shirt.

Good luck,

Lew

On Friday, September 6, 2013 9:42:20 PM UTC-5, Bob wrote:
If it's a direct drive you may find someone to rebuild / rewind the motor.

If it's a belt drive, lots of options to having that motor rebuilt to a

number of replacements available. Need to know what type of mount, shaft

size, length, etc. Sears Parts may even have a replacement.



Bob S.



"Michael" wrote in message

...



Not too much and no smell, but it looks like the motor is about to go. What

are my options? I hate to say good-bye to an old friend.



Mike

It's a direct drive. I like the idea of having someone rebuild the motor. What will that set me back?

Thanks.

"Michael" wrote:

It's a direct drive. I like the idea of having someone rebuild the
motor. What will that set me back?
------------------------------------------------------------------
Unfortunately a rewind of a fractional HP, direct drive motor will
probably cost 75%-80% of the cost of a new direct drive saw.

Lew

On Friday, September 6, 2013 11:23:17 PM UTC-5, Lew Hodgett wrote:
"Michael" wrote:



It's a direct drive. I like the idea of having someone rebuild the

motor. What will that set me back?

------------------------------------------------------------------

Unfortunately a rewind of a fractional HP, direct drive motor will

probably cost 75%-80% of the cost of a new direct drive saw.



Lew

Yeah, I just talked to a guy who does this. He said it's going to cost more than the motor is worth.

Michael wrote:
Not too much and no smell, but it looks like the motor is about to go. What are my options? I hate to say good-bye to an old friend.

Mike
25 Years is way past the legal age for smoking.

--
 GW Ross 

 Weird enough for all practical 
 purposes. 

On Sat, 7 Sep 2013 07:08:45 -0700 (PDT), Michael
wrote:

On Friday, September 6, 2013 11:23:17 PM UTC-5, Lew Hodgett wrote:
"Michael" wrote:



It's a direct drive. I like the idea of having someone rebuild the



Yeah, I just talked to a guy who does this. He said it's going to cost more than the motor is worth.


Is this the little direct drive saws that make a lot of noise and have
a table too small for a decent cross cut? If so, it may be time to
get an upgrade.

On Fri, 06 Sep 2013 21:23:17 -0700, Lew Hodgett wrote:

It's a direct drive. I like the idea of having someone rebuild the
motor. What will that set me back?
------------------------------------------------------------------
Unfortunately a rewind of a fractional HP, direct drive motor will
probably cost 75%-80% of the cost of a new direct drive saw.

I've got a 1948 Delta with a motor that's so heavy I can barely lift it.
Some of that is my age but it's still one *heavy* motor.

I was told by a guy who worked at a motor place that if it ever failed, I
should get it fixed instead of replacing it because the newer motors
didn't have anything like the torque of the old ones.

I don't know if he was correct or if this applies to the OPs motor. Just
something to consider besides cost.

--
When fascism comes to America, it will be wrapped in the flag and
carrying a cross.

"Michael" wrote in message
...
Not too much and no smell, but it looks like the motor is about to go. What are my options? I hate
to say good-bye to an old friend.

Mike

Blow out the accumulated sawdust with compressed air. A motor that can't
breathe is going to get hot. Open it up if necessary, This will be a good time
to oil the bearings too.
Art

On Saturday, September 7, 2013 9:08:45 AM UTC-5, Michael wrote:
On Friday, September 6, 2013 11:23:17 PM UTC-5, Lew Hodgett wrote:

"Michael" wrote:







It's a direct drive. I like the idea of having someone rebuild the



motor. What will that set me back?



------------------------------------------------------------------



Unfortunately a rewind of a fractional HP, direct drive motor will



probably cost 75%-80% of the cost of a new direct drive saw.







Lew



Yeah, I just talked to a guy who does this. He said it's going to cost more than the motor is worth.

I went by Sears today. I like this saw.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-profe...a=00921833000P

The motor is 1 3/4 HP. Will I miss that much HP since I've been using at 2 HP for years? The most stress I put on the saw is ripping 45 inch long green hickory that I've planed to square.

The lesser-priced saw has some kind of flange sticking into the miter slot that will not let me use my many jigs. What a bad idea.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-profe...a=00921833000P

Mike

On Saturday, September 7, 2013 2:47:15 PM UTC-5, Artemus wrote:
"Michael" wrote in message

...

Not too much and no smell, but it looks like the motor is about to go. What are my options? I hate

to say good-bye to an old friend.



Mike



Blow out the accumulated sawdust with compressed air. A motor that can't

breathe is going to get hot. Open it up if necessary, This will be a good time

to oil the bearings too.

Art

I blew out the dust with my air compressor. I haven't oiled the bearings. I don't know how but I'll figure it out and try that.

Thanks!

On 09/06/2013 08:53 PM, Michael wrote:
Not too much and no smell, but it looks like the motor is about to go. What are my options? I hate to say good-bye to an old friend.

Mike


Surprisingly, Sears Parts may still have replacement motors
for this. Get the full parts number off the saw and have a look
on their website or call a local Sears Parts outlet.

I have a saw of similar vintage and will not part with it. It fits
my garage/shop corner perfectly and is of a vintage that still had
machined metal surfaces as opposed to the newer plastic/aluminum.
Unfortunately, the motor is going to set you back a nice chunk of
change. But .. it's probably only a bit more than having the motor
rebuilt and you get a brand new motor ... for another 25 years.

I have modified mine so extensively that table surface, motor,
and frame are all that are left of the original saw:

http://www.tundraware.com/Woodworking/TableSaw/

--
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tim Daneliuk
PGP Key: http://www.tundraware.com/PGP/

On Sat, 07 Sep 2013 13:50:16 -0700, Michael wrote:

The motor is 1 3/4 HP. Will I miss that much HP since I've been using at
2 HP for years? The most stress I put on the saw is ripping 45 inch long
green hickory that I've planed to square.

Horsepower ratings on saws are nebulous at best. Look at the amperage
instead. It takes 745 watts (amps * volts) to make one horsepower and
that's if the motor is 100% efficient which none are. A 15 amp motor
might go to 1 3/4 horsepower but even that is doubtful.

And look at some other brands than Craftsman, the Sears stuff ain't what
it used to be. I don't know what your budget is but Jet, Delta, and
Powermatic all make better saws than Craftsman. And if the sky's the
limit there's always Sawstop.

--
When fascism comes to America, it will be wrapped in the flag and
carrying a cross.

On 9/7/2013 5:29 PM, Tim Daneliuk wrote:
On 09/06/2013 08:53 PM, Michael wrote:
Not too much and no smell, but it looks like the motor is about to go.
What are my options? I hate to say good-bye to an old friend.

Mike


Surprisingly, Sears Parts may still have replacement motors
for this. Get the full parts number off the saw and have a look
on their website or call a local Sears Parts outlet.

I have a saw of similar vintage and will not part with it. It fits
my garage/shop corner perfectly and is of a vintage that still had
machined metal surfaces as opposed to the newer plastic/aluminum.
Unfortunately, the motor is going to set you back a nice chunk of
change. But .. it's probably only a bit more than having the motor
rebuilt and you get a brand new motor ... for another 25 years.

I have modified mine so extensively that table surface, motor,
and frame are all that are left of the original saw:

http://www.tundraware.com/Woodworking/TableSaw/

Before doing away with the saw look on the net or in the phone book and
find a shop that handles small electric motors.

Many years ago I thought my motor was dead, As you found replacement
motors are expensive. I took it to a local shop. He showed me what
the problem was. (Old saw dust and wood chips in the contacts.) That
was over 10 years ago and the motor is working perfectly.

After every use, I use the vacuum to clean all of the openings on the
motor. Every couple of years I take it a part and clean everything.
Just carefully put it back together and make sure there are no extra
parts when you are done. It is really a simple task.

I have a 10" Sears table saw that was purchased new in 1969. It has
the cast iron top. I would not trade it for any thing similar made
today, it I could find a 10" table saw with anything but a pressed steel
top.

Michael wrote:

Yeah, I just talked to a guy who does this. He said it's going to
cost more than the motor is worth.

I went by Sears today. I like this saw.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-profe...a=00921833000P

The motor is 1 3/4 HP. Will I miss that much HP since I've been
using at 2 HP for years? The most stress I put on the saw is ripping
45 inch long green hickory that I've planed to square.

The lesser-priced saw has some kind of flange sticking into the
miter slot that will not let me use my many jigs. What a bad idea.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-profe...a=00921833000P

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
SFWIW

NEMA rates a 1-1/2 HP and a 2 HP general purpose motor but not a 1-3/4
HP motor.

To get a 1-3/4 HP motor requires a slip stick and some assumptionsG.

We all know what assuming does.

Don't have a slip stick, use a calculator.

In any event, you are going to want to operate at 240V.

Hickory is a tough wood and green hickory is even more difficult to
cut.

About 15 years ago, bought a Delta contractor's saw complete with a
Unifence
for about $800.

No blade was included and that saw is no longer offered for sale.

Sears & Roebuck offered a pretty decent line of homeowner grade power
tools with their Craftsman brand; however, over the last 20 years,
they have
degraded the brand to the point that today it is widely referred to as
Crapsman.

IMHO, $550 does NOT buy a tablesaw that is worth bringing home.

As others have mentioned, probably time to look at what is offered in
the market.

You don't indicate whether this is for a hobby or a business, but if
it were me,
I'd look very hard at the SawStop and try very hard to convince myself
that
there is no way I can't afford not to own one.

Have fun.

Lew

On 9/7/2013 7:18 PM, Knuttle wrote:
On 9/7/2013 5:29 PM, Tim Daneliuk wrote:
On 09/06/2013 08:53 PM, Michael wrote:
Not too much and no smell, but it looks like the motor is about to go.
What are my options? I hate to say good-bye to an old friend.

Mike


Surprisingly, Sears Parts may still have replacement motors
for this. Get the full parts number off the saw and have a look
on their website or call a local Sears Parts outlet.

I have a saw of similar vintage and will not part with it. It fits
my garage/shop corner perfectly and is of a vintage that still had
machined metal surfaces as opposed to the newer plastic/aluminum.
Unfortunately, the motor is going to set you back a nice chunk of
change. But .. it's probably only a bit more than having the motor
rebuilt and you get a brand new motor ... for another 25 years.

I have modified mine so extensively that table surface, motor,
and frame are all that are left of the original saw:

http://www.tundraware.com/Woodworking/TableSaw/

Before doing away with the saw look on the net or in the phone book and
find a shop that handles small electric motors.

Many years ago I thought my motor was dead, As you found replacement
motors are expensive. I took it to a local shop. He showed me what
the problem was. (Old saw dust and wood chips in the contacts.) That
was over 10 years ago and the motor is working perfectly.

After every use, I use the vacuum to clean all of the openings on the
motor. Every couple of years I take it a part and clean everything.
Just carefully put it back together and make sure there are no extra
parts when you are done. It is really a simple task.

I have a 10" Sears table saw that was purchased new in 1969. It has
the cast iron top. I would not trade it for any thing similar made
today, it I could find a 10" table saw with anything but a pressed steel
top.


Look on Craigs list, you can buy a vintage unit for under 100, just take
the motor and use the rest for parts.

--
--
Jeff

On Saturday, September 7, 2013 4:50:16 PM UTC-4, Michael wrote:

The motor is 1 3/4 HP. Will I miss that much HP since I've been using at 2 HP for years? The most stress I put on the saw is ripping 45 inch long green hickory that I've planed to square.

2 HP "maximum developed" horsepower? That's a sales pitch used most often
by Sears to make their universal motors look good. Likely, your saw
was putting out 1-1/2 hp constant power.

Don't rule out used saws. I see Delta and Jet contractor saws at reasonable
prices on Craig's list fairly often.
--
Often wrong, never in doubt.

Larry W. - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org

On 9/7/2013 1:50 PM, Michael wrote:


Yeah, I just talked to a guy who does this. He said it's going to cost more than the motor is worth.

I went by Sears today. I like this saw.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-profe...a=00921833000P

The motor is 1 3/4 HP. Will I miss that much HP since I've been using at 2 HP for years? The most stress I put on the saw is ripping 45 inch long green hickory that I've planed to square.

The lesser-priced saw has some kind of flange sticking into the miter slot that will not let me use my many jigs. What a bad idea.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-profe...a=00921833000P

Mike

That is the saw that I bought to replace my wood shop (which went to my
youngest daughter when we moved and downsized). I went with Sears
because ratings were pretty good, it was fairly cheap, and there is a
Sears about a half mile away so I can beat up on the salesman if
everything doesn't go my way. Anyway, it went together quite easily and
required only very minor adjustments out of the box. Fit and finish
were just fine. It doesn't get heavy usage but I have cut some IPE and
forbuhfor doug fir. No problem. I can recommend it for anyone who
doesn't do commercial work any more but wants to keep his hand in.
mahalo,
jo4hn
(I lied about beating him up. He looked a bit on the burly side.)

On Sun, 8 Sep 2013 13:47:42 +0000 (UTC),
(Larry W) wrote:

Don't rule out used saws. I see Delta and Jet contractor saws at reasonable
prices on Craig's list fairly often.

Most of those saws are from guys that can't get "wood" any more and
either had to give up the hobby or died. Most have been fairly well
cared for. Take some extra cash as the family may also be selling
some other goodies at bargain prices.

On 9/7/13 3:50 PM, Michael wrote:
I went by Sears today. I like this saw.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-profe...a=00921833000P

The motor is 1 3/4 HP. Will I miss that much HP since I've been
using at 2 HP for years? The most stress I put on the saw is ripping
45 inch long green hickory that I've planed to square.

The lesser-priced saw has some kind of flange sticking into the miter
slot that will not let me use my many jigs. What a bad idea.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-profe...a=00921833000P

Mike


I don't know how old your Craftsman is but the new ones are no where
near the quality of the old ones. They make them all shiny and put on
big plastic knobs and dials to make them appear hefty and high quality,
but you can get much better saws for the money.
I don't know about that saw but Craftsman also has a nasty habit of
making their miter slots different dimension than the industry standard
so that you have to buy their accessories. They are also notorious for
being *non* adjustable in critical areas like arbor to slot fine tuning.

Someone else mentioned craigslist. If you're in a decent sized city,
you can get some incredible deals on there. I got my $1k Delta tablesaw
for $225 and it was a year old.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Sat, 7 Sep 2013 16:31:26 +0000 (UTC), Larry Blanchard
wrote:

On Fri, 06 Sep 2013 21:23:17 -0700, Lew Hodgett wrote:

It's a direct drive. I like the idea of having someone rebuild the
motor. What will that set me back?
------------------------------------------------------------------
Unfortunately a rewind of a fractional HP, direct drive motor will
probably cost 75%-80% of the cost of a new direct drive saw.

I've got a 1948 Delta with a motor that's so heavy I can barely lift it.
Some of that is my age but it's still one *heavy* motor.

I was told by a guy who worked at a motor place that if it ever failed, I
should get it fixed instead of replacing it because the newer motors
didn't have anything like the torque of the old ones.

A new one might not have the weight of an old one and may not be as
efficient (or more) but HP is HP. (HP == torque*RPM - RPM is
constant).

I don't know if he was correct or if this applies to the OPs motor. Just
something to consider besides cost.

On Sat, 7 Sep 2013 13:50:16 -0700 (PDT), Michael
wrote:

I went by Sears today. I like this saw.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-profe...a=00921833000P

The motor is 1 3/4 HP. Will I miss that much HP since I've been using at 2 HP for years? The most stress I put on the saw is ripping 45 inch long green hickory that I've planed to square.

The lesser-priced saw has some kind of flange sticking into the miter slot that will not let me use my many jigs. What a bad idea.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-profe...a=00921833000P

Mike

FWIW, Mike, I spent $350 for a Jet contractor saw, with the Rockler outfeed
table, mobile base, a few half decent blades a couple summers ago to get my son
started in woodworking. It was used, but very little. Take a look on
Craigslist or contact your local woodworking club. You could wind up with a
heck of a deal and a much better saw.

Regards,
Roy

On Sunday, September 8, 2013 9:18:27 PM UTC-5, Roy wrote:
On Sat, 7 Sep 2013 13:50:16 -0700 (PDT), Michael

wrote:



I went by Sears today. I like this saw.



http://www.sears.com/craftsman-profe...a=00921833000P



The motor is 1 3/4 HP. Will I miss that much HP since I've been using at 2 HP for years? The most stress I put on the saw is ripping 45 inch long green hickory that I've planed to square.



The lesser-priced saw has some kind of flange sticking into the miter slot that will not let me use my many jigs. What a bad idea.



http://www.sears.com/craftsman-profe...a=00921833000P



Mike



FWIW, Mike, I spent $350 for a Jet contractor saw, with the Rockler outfeed

table, mobile base, a few half decent blades a couple summers ago to get my son

started in woodworking. It was used, but very little. Take a look on

Craigslist or contact your local woodworking club. You could wind up with a

heck of a deal and a much better saw.



Regards,

Roy

I'm thinking the same thing, but I also like the idea of the warranty as well as the yearly extended warranties that you can get for Sears products. I looked around and there are some pretty good deals in the area. If I'm patient, I'm sure something will work out.

Something like this, for example: http://wausau.craigslist.org/tls/4046902862.html

Thanks.

On Sun, 08 Sep 2013 18:10:21 -0400, krw wrote:

A new one might not have the weight of an old one and may not be as
efficient (or more) but HP is HP. (HP == torque*RPM - RPM is constant).

Offhand I don't recall what the HP rating is, but I bet it's for real and
not "peak developed HP" :-).

I wonder if the heavier motor has more inertia to keep it going through
momentary tough spots?

--
When fascism comes to America, it will be wrapped in the flag and
carrying a cross.

On Sun, 08 Sep 2013 19:26:20 -0700, Michael wrote:

Something like this, for example:
http://wausau.craigslist.org/tls/4046902862.html

That's an oldie but goodie. If you have 220, go for it. The seller
sounds like he'd even reduce the price a little. But make sure you've
got some strong helpers to move it :-).

--
When fascism comes to America, it will be wrapped in the flag and
carrying a cross.

On Sun, 8 Sep 2013 19:26:20 -0700 (PDT), Michael
wrote:

On Sunday, September 8, 2013 9:18:27 PM UTC-5, Roy wrote:
On Sat, 7 Sep 2013 13:50:16 -0700 (PDT), Michael

wrote:



I went by Sears today. I like this saw.



http://www.sears.com/craftsman-profe...a=00921833000P



The motor is 1 3/4 HP. Will I miss that much HP since I've been using at 2 HP for years? The most stress I put on the saw is ripping 45 inch long green hickory that I've planed to square.



The lesser-priced saw has some kind of flange sticking into the miter slot that will not let me use my many jigs. What a bad idea.



http://www.sears.com/craftsman-profe...a=00921833000P



Mike



FWIW, Mike, I spent $350 for a Jet contractor saw, with the Rockler outfeed

table, mobile base, a few half decent blades a couple summers ago to get my son

started in woodworking. It was used, but very little. Take a look on

Craigslist or contact your local woodworking club. You could wind up with a

heck of a deal and a much better saw.



Regards,

Roy

I'm thinking the same thing, but I also like the idea of the warranty as well as the yearly extended warranties that you can get for Sears products. I looked around and there are some pretty good deals in the area. If I'm patient, I'm sure something will work out.

Forget the warranty and *particularly* any extended warranties. Use
that money to buy a better saw. IMO, if you go cheap, you'll be
kicking yourself for a long time. Buying he best only hurts once.

Something like this, for example: http://wausau.craigslist.org/tls/4046902862.html

Thanks.

On Mon, 9 Sep 2013 15:59:04 +0000 (UTC), Larry Blanchard
wrote:

On Sun, 08 Sep 2013 18:10:21 -0400, krw wrote:

A new one might not have the weight of an old one and may not be as
efficient (or more) but HP is HP. (HP == torque*RPM - RPM is constant).

Offhand I don't recall what the HP rating is, but I bet it's for real and
not "peak developed HP" :-).

The point being that, for motors, HP is defined as torque*RPM (times
some constant - 5550 if torque is in ft-lbs). SO for a given HP,
(real) torque will be the same for all motors of the same RPM (which
60Hz induction motors used in saws will be).

Who knows what "peak developed HP" is? I think it's also called
"Sears HP". ;-) I really like their 3.5HP shop vacs. Those things
really suck! ;-)

I wonder if the heavier motor has more inertia to keep it going through
momentary tough spots?

Not enough to mention. Most of the weight difference will be in the
stator and housing, anyway. Again, a heavier motor may be more
efficient because it may have more copper in the windings, something a
newer motor is certainly going to try to minimize. It's more likely
that the older ones are under-engineered[*], though.
[*] Any fool can build a bridge that stands. It takes a real engineer
to make a bridge that barely stands. ;-)

On Monday, September 9, 2013 11:10:13 AM UTC-5, Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Sun, 08 Sep 2013 19:26:20 -0700, Michael wrote:



Something like this, for example:

http://wausau.craigslist.org/tls/4046902862.html



That's an oldie but goodie. If you have 220, go for it. The seller

sounds like he'd even reduce the price a little. But make sure you've

got some strong helpers to move it :-).



--

When fascism comes to America, it will be wrapped in the flag and

carrying a cross.

Any thoughts on this table saw?

http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/for/4017043344.html

On Mon, 09 Sep 2013 14:32:39 -0700, Michael wrote:

Any thoughts on this table saw?

http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/for/4017043344.html

Without a model number it's hard to tell. Delta made some good stuff and
a few that weren't much better than Sears. I don't like the extensions.
I prefer the solid cast iron ones. But the corrugated are better than
the waffle iron ones.

--
When fascism comes to America, it will be wrapped in the flag and
carrying a cross.

On 9/9/13 4:32 PM, Michael wrote:
Any thoughts on this table saw?

http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/for/4017043344.html


Not great, but might be worth $125-150.
It has a cast iron top, but those fence rails are suspect.

Honestly, I'd rather go for that Jet you posted earlier.
The guy said he was open to offers, so maybe lowball him at $250 and see
if he counters with $300. Those old Jets are big, heavy-duty sumbiches
and can be adjusted to cut perfectly. If it's in any decent shape at all
with a decent fence, it would be a better saw than that Delta above.

--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Monday, September 9, 2013 8:59:38 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
On 9/9/13 4:32 PM, Michael wrote:

Any thoughts on this table saw?



http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/for/4017043344.html





Not great, but might be worth $125-150.

It has a cast iron top, but those fence rails are suspect.



Honestly, I'd rather go for that Jet you posted earlier.

The guy said he was open to offers, so maybe lowball him at $250 and see

if he counters with $300. Those old Jets are big, heavy-duty sumbiches

and can be adjusted to cut perfectly. If it's in any decent shape at all

with a decent fence, it would be a better saw than that Delta above.



--



-MIKE-



"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"

--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)

--

http://mikedrums.com



---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

So for my uses (hobbyist) and price range, I think I've settled on finding a used Jet. Any thoughts on this saw (quality and price)?

Thanks.

http://appleton.craigslist.org/tls/3995302654.html

On 9/11/13 12:29 PM, Michael wrote:

So for my uses (hobbyist) and price range, I think I've settled on
finding a used Jet. Any thoughts on this saw (quality and price)?

Thanks.

http://appleton.craigslist.org/tls/3995302654.html


I think $550 is high for that saw. $400 would be reasonable... just my
opinion, of course.
I would want to look inside and underneath before committing. That is
quite a bit of surface rust on the table top. That tells me the owner
never applied a protectant to the top and/or the thing sat in a very
humid environment for a long, long time. I can't tell if the marks on
the bottoms of the legs are mud or rust. If they are rust, I would
definitely want get get a close, inside look at arbor, motor mounts,
belts pulleys, the arbor tilting gears, all the bolts,etc., and with a
flashlight, anywhere you can see inside the motor for signs of rust.

Normally, I would chalk up that table rust to normal humidity/non-use
rusting that occurs on those iron tops. However, in the picture of his
jointer, there appears to be what might be rust on the tops of the
adjustment wheel-cranks.

That is all speculation, obviously, but it's cause for concern. *I*
would want to carefully inspect it as I described above. I would also,
most certainly want to hear and see the thing run. Best case scenario,
that table top rust is just light surface rust and the rest of the saw
is spotless. Worst case, the thing was in a flood. There were a lot of
'flood tools' on craigslist Nashville after the 2010 flood.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

-MIKE- wrote:
On 9/11/13 12:29 PM, Michael wrote:

So for my uses (hobbyist) and price range, I think I've settled on
finding a used Jet. Any thoughts on this saw (quality and price)?

Thanks.

http://appleton.craigslist.org/tls/3995302654.html


I think $550 is high for that saw. $400 would be reasonable... just my
opinion, of course.
I would want to look inside and underneath before committing. That is
quite a bit of surface rust on the table top. That tells me the owner
never applied a protectant to the top and/or the thing sat in a very
humid environment for a long, long time. I can't tell if the marks on
the bottoms of the legs are mud or rust. If they are rust, I would
definitely want get get a close, inside look at arbor, motor mounts,
belts pulleys, the arbor tilting gears, all the bolts,etc., and with a
flashlight, anywhere you can see inside the motor for signs of rust.

Normally, I would chalk up that table rust to normal humidity/non-use
rusting that occurs on those iron tops. However, in the picture of his
jointer, there appears to be what might be rust on the tops of the
adjustment wheel-cranks.

That is all speculation, obviously, but it's cause for concern. *I*
would want to carefully inspect it as I described above. I would also,
most certainly want to hear and see the thing run. Best case scenario,
that table top rust is just light surface rust and the rest of the saw
is spotless. Worst case, the thing was in a flood. There were a lot of
'flood tools' on craigslist Nashville after the 2010 flood.


I concur. I own one just like that and have never had any problems
with it. But The price and the rust gives me pause.

--
 GW Ross 

 If voting changed anything, they'd 
 make it illegal. 

On 9/11/13 1:55 PM, G. Ross wrote:
-MIKE- wrote:
On 9/11/13 12:29 PM, Michael wrote:

So for my uses (hobbyist) and price range, I think I've settled on
finding a used Jet. Any thoughts on this saw (quality and price)?

Thanks.

http://appleton.craigslist.org/tls/3995302654.html


I think $550 is high for that saw. $400 would be reasonable... just my
opinion, of course.
I would want to look inside and underneath before committing. That is
quite a bit of surface rust on the table top. That tells me the owner
never applied a protectant to the top and/or the thing sat in a very
humid environment for a long, long time. I can't tell if the marks on
the bottoms of the legs are mud or rust. If they are rust, I would
definitely want get get a close, inside look at arbor, motor mounts,
belts pulleys, the arbor tilting gears, all the bolts,etc., and with a
flashlight, anywhere you can see inside the motor for signs of rust.

Normally, I would chalk up that table rust to normal humidity/non-use
rusting that occurs on those iron tops. However, in the picture of his
jointer, there appears to be what might be rust on the tops of the
adjustment wheel-cranks.

That is all speculation, obviously, but it's cause for concern. *I*
would want to carefully inspect it as I described above. I would also,
most certainly want to hear and see the thing run. Best case scenario,
that table top rust is just light surface rust and the rest of the saw
is spotless. Worst case, the thing was in a flood. There were a lot of
'flood tools' on craigslist Nashville after the 2010 flood.


I concur. I own one just like that and have never had any problems with
it. But The price and the rust gives me pause.


You might be better able to speak to the price.
From what I can gather, it was about $800, new, is that accurate?


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Wed, 11 Sep 2013 10:29:57 -0700 (PDT), Michael
wrote:



So for my uses (hobbyist) and price range, I think I've settled on finding a used Jet. Any thoughts on this saw (quality and price)?

Thanks.

http://appleton.craigslist.org/tls/3995302654.html

Have you considered RIDGID 13-Amp 10 in. Model # R4512, I own one and
am quite happy with it.

New price is $1 less than asking price of the Jet.

Ray

On Wednesday, September 11, 2013 12:58:06 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
On 9/11/13 12:29 PM, Michael wrote:



So for my uses (hobbyist) and price range, I think I've settled on

finding a used Jet. Any thoughts on this saw (quality and price)?



Thanks.



http://appleton.craigslist.org/tls/3995302654.html





I think $550 is high for that saw. $400 would be reasonable... just my

opinion, of course.

I would want to look inside and underneath before committing. That is

quite a bit of surface rust on the table top. That tells me the owner

never applied a protectant to the top and/or the thing sat in a very

humid environment for a long, long time. I can't tell if the marks on

the bottoms of the legs are mud or rust. If they are rust, I would

definitely want get get a close, inside look at arbor, motor mounts,

belts pulleys, the arbor tilting gears, all the bolts,etc., and with a

flashlight, anywhere you can see inside the motor for signs of rust.



Normally, I would chalk up that table rust to normal humidity/non-use

rusting that occurs on those iron tops. However, in the picture of his

jointer, there appears to be what might be rust on the tops of the

adjustment wheel-cranks.



That is all speculation, obviously, but it's cause for concern. *I*

would want to carefully inspect it as I described above. I would also,

most certainly want to hear and see the thing run. Best case scenario,

that table top rust is just light surface rust and the rest of the saw

is spotless. Worst case, the thing was in a flood. There were a lot of

'flood tools' on craigslist Nashville after the 2010 flood.





--



-MIKE-



"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"

--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)

--

http://mikedrums.com



---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Great information, Mike. I'm trying not to get impatient, but life is hard without table saw. There are so many table saws on Craiglist I'm sure a great deal will turn up.

On Wednesday, September 11, 2013 4:02:52 PM UTC-5, Ray wrote:
On Wed, 11 Sep 2013 10:29:57 -0700 (PDT), Michael

wrote:







So for my uses (hobbyist) and price range, I think I've settled on finding a used Jet. Any thoughts on this saw (quality and price)?



Thanks.



http://appleton.craigslist.org/tls/3995302654.html



Have you considered RIDGID 13-Amp 10 in. Model # R4512, I own one and

am quite happy with it.



New price is $1 less than asking price of the Jet.



Ray

I'm definitely going to go to Home Depot and have a look. It has a cast iron top and it's gotten very good reviews. I like the brand OK. I have a Ridgid 1200 lathe that I've turned a million things on, although I kind of long for a lathe with a little more substance.

On Wednesday, September 11, 2013 4:02:52 PM UTC-5, Ray wrote:
On Wed, 11 Sep 2013 10:29:57 -0700 (PDT), Michael

wrote:







So for my uses (hobbyist) and price range, I think I've settled on finding a used Jet. Any thoughts on this saw (quality and price)?



Thanks.



http://appleton.craigslist.org/tls/3995302654.html



Have you considered RIDGID 13-Amp 10 in. Model # R4512, I own one and

am quite happy with it.



New price is $1 less than asking price of the Jet.



Ray

According to this guy, this Craftsman saw is the same as the Ridgid R4512. Did you have issues with alignment?

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...#reviewsWra p

Criticism13 found this helpful
joelav
Jul 5 , 2012
Be careful of alignment issues
First off, let me clear up some misconceptions. This is NOT a JET, Grizzly, or Rikon saw rebranded. This is NOT a cabinet saw. Even though the motor is enclosed, the trunions are table mounted; not cabinet mounted. This is however, the same basic saw as the Ridgid R4512 with minor cosmetic differences. This saw has 2 fatal flaws that need to be taken into account before purchase, and need to me taken seriously: 1 - The blade is known to change alignment with height adjustment. This will cause your cuts to be off my as much as 1/16" of an inch for every 10" of wood you cut. You could have a difference of almost half an inch if you rip an 8 foot board. That is a very serious problem that will ruin your work. Not only that it creates a dangerous situation. If your rip fence and blade are not in alignment, it creates a dangerous kickback situation. It cannot be fixed, it cannot be adjusted out. Fortunately, there are examples of this saw (and the R4512) that do not have this issue. PLEASE test your alignment BEFORE you assemble this saw. Google "alignment issues, R4512" and you will find the procedure. It is simple and only requires you install the blade and have a metal ruler handy. If you saw fails this test, return it. It cannot be fixed. 2 - The fence rail is an issue. Because it is in two pieces, when you have the fence closer than 3" to the blade, the clamping force can change the geometry of the fence, causing misalignment. With that said, if you get this saw without the alignment issue, it is an excellent saw. If you are really careful clamping down the fence, you can avoid the geometry change. There are also many aftermarket fences that fit this saw. Again, there is not as much information out there on the craftsman version, but it is nearly identical to the Ridgid R4512. If you want to do additional research before getting this saw, consider all the reviews on the R4512 as well. In addition, the blade is a throw away. I wouldn't even bother cleaning the grease off and installing it. This is not uncommon and most blades that come with any saw are cheap. You are buying a saw that can provide professional results if properly set up for under 700$. That is a great bargain. Do youself a favor and get a good quality blade or two. If you decide to use the included blade, please do not judge the performance of the saw based on that. I have used it, I can confirm it is terrible. There is no doubt about it. I hope Sears and the others that sell this saw can clear up the manufacturing issues with the trunions. Craftsman has taken a beating lately, and this saw is a real gem and could restore the faith in the brand that our fathers and grandfathers once had. I cannot stress this enough - TEST your saw for the alignment issue. It is extremely common. It cannot be fixed, and it will ruin your work and possibly create a dangerous kickback situation.