Not too much and no smell, but it looks like the motor is about to go. What are my options? I hate to say good-bye to an old friend.

Mike

If it's a direct drive you may find someone to rebuild / rewind the motor.
If it's a belt drive, lots of options to having that motor rebuilt to a
number of replacements available. Need to know what type of mount, shaft
size, length, etc. Sears Parts may even have a replacement.

Bob S.

"Michael" wrote in message
...

Not too much and no smell, but it looks like the motor is about to go. What
are my options? I hate to say good-bye to an old friend.

Mike

On Friday, September 6, 2013 9:42:20 PM UTC-5, Bob wrote:
If it's a direct drive you may find someone to rebuild / rewind the motor.

If it's a belt drive, lots of options to having that motor rebuilt to a

number of replacements available. Need to know what type of mount, shaft

size, length, etc. Sears Parts may even have a replacement.



Bob S.



"Michael" wrote in message

...



Not too much and no smell, but it looks like the motor is about to go. What

are my options? I hate to say good-bye to an old friend.



Mike

It's a direct drive. I like the idea of having someone rebuild the motor. What will that set me back?

Thanks.

"Michael" wrote:

It's a direct drive. I like the idea of having someone rebuild the
motor. What will that set me back?
------------------------------------------------------------------
Unfortunately a rewind of a fractional HP, direct drive motor will
probably cost 75%-80% of the cost of a new direct drive saw.

Lew

On Friday, September 6, 2013 11:23:17 PM UTC-5, Lew Hodgett wrote:
"Michael" wrote:



It's a direct drive. I like the idea of having someone rebuild the

motor. What will that set me back?

------------------------------------------------------------------

Unfortunately a rewind of a fractional HP, direct drive motor will

probably cost 75%-80% of the cost of a new direct drive saw.



Lew

Yeah, I just talked to a guy who does this. He said it's going to cost more than the motor is worth.

On Sat, 7 Sep 2013 07:08:45 -0700 (PDT), Michael
wrote:

On Friday, September 6, 2013 11:23:17 PM UTC-5, Lew Hodgett wrote:
"Michael" wrote:



It's a direct drive. I like the idea of having someone rebuild the



Yeah, I just talked to a guy who does this. He said it's going to cost more than the motor is worth.


Is this the little direct drive saws that make a lot of noise and have
a table too small for a decent cross cut? If so, it may be time to
get an upgrade.

On Saturday, September 7, 2013 9:08:45 AM UTC-5, Michael wrote:
On Friday, September 6, 2013 11:23:17 PM UTC-5, Lew Hodgett wrote:

"Michael" wrote:







It's a direct drive. I like the idea of having someone rebuild the



motor. What will that set me back?



------------------------------------------------------------------



Unfortunately a rewind of a fractional HP, direct drive motor will



probably cost 75%-80% of the cost of a new direct drive saw.







Lew



Yeah, I just talked to a guy who does this. He said it's going to cost more than the motor is worth.

I went by Sears today. I like this saw.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-profe...a=00921833000P

The motor is 1 3/4 HP. Will I miss that much HP since I've been using at 2 HP for years? The most stress I put on the saw is ripping 45 inch long green hickory that I've planed to square.

The lesser-priced saw has some kind of flange sticking into the miter slot that will not let me use my many jigs. What a bad idea.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-profe...a=00921833000P

Mike

On Fri, 06 Sep 2013 21:23:17 -0700, Lew Hodgett wrote:

It's a direct drive. I like the idea of having someone rebuild the
motor. What will that set me back?
------------------------------------------------------------------
Unfortunately a rewind of a fractional HP, direct drive motor will
probably cost 75%-80% of the cost of a new direct drive saw.

I've got a 1948 Delta with a motor that's so heavy I can barely lift it.
Some of that is my age but it's still one *heavy* motor.

I was told by a guy who worked at a motor place that if it ever failed, I
should get it fixed instead of replacing it because the newer motors
didn't have anything like the torque of the old ones.

I don't know if he was correct or if this applies to the OPs motor. Just
something to consider besides cost.

--
When fascism comes to America, it will be wrapped in the flag and
carrying a cross.

On Sat, 7 Sep 2013 16:31:26 +0000 (UTC), Larry Blanchard
wrote:

On Fri, 06 Sep 2013 21:23:17 -0700, Lew Hodgett wrote:

It's a direct drive. I like the idea of having someone rebuild the
motor. What will that set me back?
------------------------------------------------------------------
Unfortunately a rewind of a fractional HP, direct drive motor will
probably cost 75%-80% of the cost of a new direct drive saw.

I've got a 1948 Delta with a motor that's so heavy I can barely lift it.
Some of that is my age but it's still one *heavy* motor.

I was told by a guy who worked at a motor place that if it ever failed, I
should get it fixed instead of replacing it because the newer motors
didn't have anything like the torque of the old ones.

A new one might not have the weight of an old one and may not be as
efficient (or more) but HP is HP. (HP == torque*RPM - RPM is
constant).

I don't know if he was correct or if this applies to the OPs motor. Just
something to consider besides cost.

"Michael" wrote:

Not too much and no smell, but it looks like the motor is about to
go. What are my options? I hate to say good-bye to an old friend.
----------------------------------------------------------
A replacement (You need one) 2HP, 3450RPM, cap start, cap run,
120/240V motor is available from your local Grainger.

Found a Model 5K961 from Grainger for $450.

Last time I bought one it was around $300 but that was then and this
is now.

BTDT, don't need the T-Shirt.

Good luck,

Lew

Michael wrote:
Not too much and no smell, but it looks like the motor is about to go. What are my options? I hate to say good-bye to an old friend.

Mike
25 Years is way past the legal age for smoking.

--
 GW Ross 

 Weird enough for all practical 
 purposes. 

"Michael" wrote in message
...
Not too much and no smell, but it looks like the motor is about to go. What are my options? I hate
to say good-bye to an old friend.

Mike

Blow out the accumulated sawdust with compressed air. A motor that can't
breathe is going to get hot. Open it up if necessary, This will be a good time
to oil the bearings too.
Art

On Saturday, September 7, 2013 2:47:15 PM UTC-5, Artemus wrote:
"Michael" wrote in message

...

Not too much and no smell, but it looks like the motor is about to go. What are my options? I hate

to say good-bye to an old friend.



Mike



Blow out the accumulated sawdust with compressed air. A motor that can't

breathe is going to get hot. Open it up if necessary, This will be a good time

to oil the bearings too.

Art

I blew out the dust with my air compressor. I haven't oiled the bearings. I don't know how but I'll figure it out and try that.

Thanks!

On 09/06/2013 08:53 PM, Michael wrote:
Not too much and no smell, but it looks like the motor is about to go. What are my options? I hate to say good-bye to an old friend.

Mike


Surprisingly, Sears Parts may still have replacement motors
for this. Get the full parts number off the saw and have a look
on their website or call a local Sears Parts outlet.

I have a saw of similar vintage and will not part with it. It fits
my garage/shop corner perfectly and is of a vintage that still had
machined metal surfaces as opposed to the newer plastic/aluminum.
Unfortunately, the motor is going to set you back a nice chunk of
change. But .. it's probably only a bit more than having the motor
rebuilt and you get a brand new motor ... for another 25 years.

I have modified mine so extensively that table surface, motor,
and frame are all that are left of the original saw:

http://www.tundraware.com/Woodworking/TableSaw/

--
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tim Daneliuk
PGP Key: http://www.tundraware.com/PGP/

On 9/7/2013 5:29 PM, Tim Daneliuk wrote:
On 09/06/2013 08:53 PM, Michael wrote:
Not too much and no smell, but it looks like the motor is about to go.
What are my options? I hate to say good-bye to an old friend.

Mike


Surprisingly, Sears Parts may still have replacement motors
for this. Get the full parts number off the saw and have a look
on their website or call a local Sears Parts outlet.

I have a saw of similar vintage and will not part with it. It fits
my garage/shop corner perfectly and is of a vintage that still had
machined metal surfaces as opposed to the newer plastic/aluminum.
Unfortunately, the motor is going to set you back a nice chunk of
change. But .. it's probably only a bit more than having the motor
rebuilt and you get a brand new motor ... for another 25 years.

I have modified mine so extensively that table surface, motor,
and frame are all that are left of the original saw:

http://www.tundraware.com/Woodworking/TableSaw/

Before doing away with the saw look on the net or in the phone book and
find a shop that handles small electric motors.

Many years ago I thought my motor was dead, As you found replacement
motors are expensive. I took it to a local shop. He showed me what
the problem was. (Old saw dust and wood chips in the contacts.) That
was over 10 years ago and the motor is working perfectly.

After every use, I use the vacuum to clean all of the openings on the
motor. Every couple of years I take it a part and clean everything.
Just carefully put it back together and make sure there are no extra
parts when you are done. It is really a simple task.

I have a 10" Sears table saw that was purchased new in 1969. It has
the cast iron top. I would not trade it for any thing similar made
today, it I could find a 10" table saw with anything but a pressed steel
top.

On 9/7/2013 7:18 PM, Knuttle wrote:
On 9/7/2013 5:29 PM, Tim Daneliuk wrote:
On 09/06/2013 08:53 PM, Michael wrote:
Not too much and no smell, but it looks like the motor is about to go.
What are my options? I hate to say good-bye to an old friend.

Mike


Surprisingly, Sears Parts may still have replacement motors
for this. Get the full parts number off the saw and have a look
on their website or call a local Sears Parts outlet.

I have a saw of similar vintage and will not part with it. It fits
my garage/shop corner perfectly and is of a vintage that still had
machined metal surfaces as opposed to the newer plastic/aluminum.
Unfortunately, the motor is going to set you back a nice chunk of
change. But .. it's probably only a bit more than having the motor
rebuilt and you get a brand new motor ... for another 25 years.

I have modified mine so extensively that table surface, motor,
and frame are all that are left of the original saw:

http://www.tundraware.com/Woodworking/TableSaw/

Before doing away with the saw look on the net or in the phone book and
find a shop that handles small electric motors.

Many years ago I thought my motor was dead, As you found replacement
motors are expensive. I took it to a local shop. He showed me what
the problem was. (Old saw dust and wood chips in the contacts.) That
was over 10 years ago and the motor is working perfectly.

After every use, I use the vacuum to clean all of the openings on the
motor. Every couple of years I take it a part and clean everything.
Just carefully put it back together and make sure there are no extra
parts when you are done. It is really a simple task.

I have a 10" Sears table saw that was purchased new in 1969. It has
the cast iron top. I would not trade it for any thing similar made
today, it I could find a 10" table saw with anything but a pressed steel
top.


Look on Craigs list, you can buy a vintage unit for under 100, just take
the motor and use the rest for parts.

--
--
Jeff