My wife bought me a 19.2 volt craftsman drill 5 or 6 years ago. I use
it regularly and love it. I added the small circular saw and the
small vacuum a few years later. Both work well for occassional small
jobs. The three original batteries eventually went bad, so I bought
two new ones which are still working but probably will need to be
replaced in the next few years. That leads me to my question. I read
somewhere about having tool batteries rebuilt to save money (and the
environment). I looked at quite a few online businesses and the going
rate is around $50 per battery. That seemed high so I went to the
sears site and found I could buy new ones for $30 to $35 each. What
am I missing? Why would it cost more to rebuild old batteries than to
buy new ones? All the rebuild sites bragged about their price being
half of new batteries, but instead, they seem to be almost double. I
think all the batteries I have looked at are NiCDs, but some don't say
and could be NiMH. Capacities range from 1500 mAh to 2100 mAH.
Capacity doesn't matter much for my small jobs. Having one in the
tool and another charged and ready to go has worked out well.

Pat

On Sun, 18 Jul 2010 12:17:33 -0400, wrote:

My wife bought me a 19.2 volt craftsman drill 5 or 6 years ago. I use
it regularly and love it. I added the small circular saw and the
small vacuum a few years later. Both work well for occassional small
jobs. The three original batteries eventually went bad, so I bought
two new ones which are still working but probably will need to be
replaced in the next few years. That leads me to my question. I read
somewhere about having tool batteries rebuilt to save money (and the
environment). I looked at quite a few online businesses and the going
rate is around $50 per battery. That seemed high so I went to the
sears site and found I could buy new ones for $30 to $35 each. What
am I missing? Why would it cost more to rebuild old batteries than to
buy new ones? All the rebuild sites bragged about their price being
half of new batteries, but instead, they seem to be almost double.

It's rare to see new batteries for $35. They're usually closer to $100 (two
almost the price of a new tool) so $35 (what it cost me for my PC drill) is
cheap for a rebuild. If you bought new batteries for less than a rebuild,
good deal. BTW, don't think you're "saving the environment" with a rebuild.
The only thing you're "saving" is a couple of ounces of plastic. The
batteries are new and the old are chucked.

I think all the batteries I have looked at are NiCDs, but some don't say
and could be NiMH. Capacities range from 1500 mAh to 2100 mAH.
Capacity doesn't matter much for my small jobs. Having one in the
tool and another charged and ready to go has worked out well.

Just be careful not to put NiMH batteries in a charger not specifically
designed for them.

wrote in message
...
My wife bought me a 19.2 volt craftsman drill 5 or 6 years ago. I use
it regularly and love it.
I looked at quite a few online businesses and the going
rate is around $50 per battery. That seemed high so I went to the
sears site and found I could buy new ones for $30 to $35 each. What
am I missing? Why would it cost more to rebuild old batteries than to
buy new ones?

Most of the re-builders offer a higher capacity battery that will last
longer. Primecell.com is $51 for a 19.2V.
You have the choice of buying Sears again for cheap, or a better pack for
higher cost.

This is a good explanation of what they can do for you
Standard capacity packs: They are usually sold in pairs, in kits with
do-everything attachments. They were made at minimum cost, with small size
cells, that provide little operating time. These batteries often spend more
time in the charger, than they do in the tools. The batteries are usually
only 1.0 AH cells, we rebuild them with the highest available capacity.
(depending of the model the upgrade can be 1.3 AH or higher. The result is
usually a 25 to 35% increase in run time.

Extra, XR or Maxi etc. battery packs. These are large capacity NiCd packs,
they are usually 1500 to 1700. We only replace these with 2.1 to 2.4 AH
cells for a 40% increase in run time.

NIMH -Maximum capacity packs: NiMh batteries are usually available in two
battery sizes. Small packs were 1.5 AH and large battery packs were 2.2 AH
to 2.6 AH We rebuild the small case with 2.1 AH and the larger packs are
improved to 3.3 AH. Either rebuild usually adds 50% more run time.

Our price to rebuild Tool Batteries is based on the voltage and cell type
(NiCd or NiMh). FOR ANY BRAND NAME. The brand name or model number does
not change the price.

On Sun, 18 Jul 2010 12:31:47 -0400, "Ed Pawlowski" wrote:

snip

Extra, XR or Maxi etc. battery packs. These are large capacity NiCd packs,
they are usually 1500 to 1700. We only replace these with 2.1 to 2.4 AH
cells for a 40% increase in run time.

The Dewalt DC9096 18V "XRP" pack is 2.6Ah. A pack of two is around $120.

NIMH -Maximum capacity packs: NiMh batteries are usually available in two
battery sizes. Small packs were 1.5 AH and large battery packs were 2.2 AH
to 2.6 AH We rebuild the small case with 2.1 AH and the larger packs are
improved to 3.3 AH. Either rebuild usually adds 50% more run time.

On Jul 18, 11:17*am, wrote:
My wife bought me a 19.2 volt craftsman drill 5 or 6 years ago. *I use
it regularly and love it. *I added the small circular saw and the
small vacuum a few years later. *Both work well for occassional small
jobs. *The three original batteries eventually went bad, so I bought
two new ones which are still working but probably will need to be
replaced in the next few years. *That leads me to my question. *I read
somewhere about having tool batteries rebuilt to save money (and the
environment). *I looked at quite a few online businesses and the going
rate is around $50 per battery. *That seemed high so I went to the
sears site and found I could buy new ones for $30 to $35 each. *What
am I missing? *Why would it cost more to rebuild old batteries than to
buy new ones? *All the rebuild sites bragged about their price being
half of new batteries, but instead, they seem to be almost double. *I
think all the batteries I have looked at are NiCDs, but some don't say
and could be NiMH. *Capacities range from 1500 mAh to 2100 mAH.
Capacity doesn't matter much for my small jobs. *Having one in the
tool and another charged and ready to go has worked out well.

Pat

I think you should pick up a few packs, I just asked my worker who is
borrowing my drill why he isnt using his any of his 2- 19.2v sears and
one 18v sears , he said the batteries are about 80-90$$ and they are
bad, I will tell him about sears online. The reason is they have extra
I guess, the buy alot of them in bulk cheap and are selling off a load
real cheap. Batteries in bulk manufacture are the highest profit
margin on the tool. Is it sears regular site?

On Jul 18, 11:17*am, wrote:
My wife bought me a 19.2 volt craftsman drill 5 or 6 years ago. *I use
it regularly and love it. *I added the small circular saw and the
small vacuum a few years later. *Both work well for occassional small
jobs. *The three original batteries eventually went bad, so I bought
two new ones which are still working but probably will need to be
replaced in the next few years. *That leads me to my question. *I read
somewhere about having tool batteries rebuilt to save money (and the
environment). *I looked at quite a few online businesses and the going
rate is around $50 per battery. *That seemed high so I went to the
sears site and found I could buy new ones for $30 to $35 each. *What
am I missing? *Why would it cost more to rebuild old batteries than to
buy new ones? *All the rebuild sites bragged about their price being
half of new batteries, but instead, they seem to be almost double. *I
think all the batteries I have looked at are NiCDs, but some don't say
and could be NiMH. *Capacities range from 1500 mAh to 2100 mAH.
Capacity doesn't matter much for my small jobs. *Having one in the
tool and another charged and ready to go has worked out well.

Pat

Sears site has a 19.2v drill and battery for 49.99 and a 19.2v 4 piece
combo for 90.00 so they are discounting what they cant sell. I wonder
if the 20$ 14.4 v will work in the 18v drill.

On Jul 18, 11:17*am, wrote:
My wife bought me a 19.2 volt craftsman drill 5 or 6 years ago. *I use
it regularly and love it. *I added the small circular saw and the
small vacuum a few years later. *Both work well for occassional small
jobs. *The three original batteries eventually went bad, so I bought
two new ones which are still working but probably will need to be
replaced in the next few years. *That leads me to my question. *I read
somewhere about having tool batteries rebuilt to save money (and the
environment). *I looked at quite a few online businesses and the going
rate is around $50 per battery. *That seemed high so I went to the
sears site and found I could buy new ones for $30 to $35 each. *What
am I missing? *Why would it cost more to rebuild old batteries than to
buy new ones? *All the rebuild sites bragged about their price being
half of new batteries, but instead, they seem to be almost double. *I
think all the batteries I have looked at are NiCDs, but some don't say
and could be NiMH. *Capacities range from 1500 mAh to 2100 mAH.
Capacity doesn't matter much for my small jobs. *Having one in the
tool and another charged and ready to go has worked out well.

Pat

If you're handy with a soldering gun you can search the web for 'nicad
batteries', buy the ones with soldering tabs attached, and rebuild
your own battery packs. You just need to make sure you orient the new
batteries the same as the old ones before soldering. Suppliers
usually have a sale of some brands and you can get a decent deal.

Red

On Jul 18, 12:37*pm, ransley wrote:


I think you should pick up a few packs, I just asked my worker who is
borrowing my drill why he isnt using his any of his 2- 19.2v sears and
one 18v sears , he said the batteries are about 80-90$$ and they are
bad, I will tell him about sears online. The reason is they have extra
I guess, the buy alot of them in bulk cheap and are selling off a load
real cheap. Batteries in bulk manufacture are the highest profit
margin on the tool. Is it sears regular site?

Sears is having a clearance on lots of their stuff. Air filters for
my garden tractor's Kohler engine were regularly $15, marked
"clearance" for $8.99, and rang up for $5.99. When I checked out they
didn't even try to talk me into a Sears credit card. Makes me wonder
what they're up to?

Red

On Jul 18, 1:26*pm, Red wrote:
On Jul 18, 12:37*pm, ransley wrote:



I think you should pick up a few packs, I just asked my worker who is
borrowing my drill why he isnt using his any of his 2- 19.2v sears and
one 18v sears , he said the batteries are about 80-90$$ and they are
bad, I will tell him about sears online. The reason is they have extra
I guess, the buy alot of them in bulk cheap and are selling off a load
real cheap. Batteries in bulk manufacture are the highest profit
margin on the tool. Is it sears regular site?

Sears is having a clearance on lots of their stuff. *Air filters for
my garden tractor's Kohler engine were regularly $15, marked
"clearance" for $8.99, and rang up for $5.99. *When I checked out they
didn't even try to talk me into a Sears credit card. *Makes me wonder
what they're up to?

Red

BTW they are pushing a Sears reward card, and the sales person said
except for Sears hand tools with the lifetime guarantee, no other
products could be returned unless they were listed on your rewards
card.

Red

On Sun, 18 Jul 2010 11:19:20 -0700 (PDT), Red wrote:

On Jul 18, 11:17*am, wrote:
My wife bought me a 19.2 volt craftsman drill 5 or 6 years ago. *I use
it regularly and love it. *I added the small circular saw and the
small vacuum a few years later. *Both work well for occassional small
jobs. *The three original batteries eventually went bad, so I bought
two new ones which are still working but probably will need to be
replaced in the next few years. *That leads me to my question. *I read
somewhere about having tool batteries rebuilt to save money (and the
environment). *I looked at quite a few online businesses and the going
rate is around $50 per battery. *That seemed high so I went to the
sears site and found I could buy new ones for $30 to $35 each. *What
am I missing? *Why would it cost more to rebuild old batteries than to
buy new ones? *All the rebuild sites bragged about their price being
half of new batteries, but instead, they seem to be almost double. *I
think all the batteries I have looked at are NiCDs, but some don't say
and could be NiMH. *Capacities range from 1500 mAh to 2100 mAH.
Capacity doesn't matter much for my small jobs. *Having one in the
tool and another charged and ready to go has worked out well.

Pat

If you're handy with a soldering gun you can search the web for 'nicad
batteries', buy the ones with soldering tabs attached, and rebuild
your own battery packs.

Those aren't "soldering tabs". They're intended to be welded. Soldering to
the tabs *might* work, but the heat doesn't do the cells any good.

You just need to make sure you orient the new
batteries the same as the old ones before soldering. Suppliers
usually have a sale of some brands and you can get a decent deal.

No, backwards isn't good at all.

On Jul 18, 3:27*pm, "
wrote:


If you're handy with a soldering gun you can search the web for 'nicad
batteries', buy the ones with soldering tabs attached, and rebuild
your own battery packs.

Those aren't "soldering tabs". *They're intended to be welded. *Soldering to
the tabs *might* work, but the heat doesn't do the cells any good.


Wrong. They are called solder tabs. See: http://www.megabatteries.com/?cat1=35
I've rebuilt several battery packs by soldering the tabs and have
never had a problem with the batteries.

Red

On Jul 18, 3:45*pm, Red wrote:
On Jul 18, 3:27*pm, "

wrote:

If you're handy with a soldering gun you can search the web for 'nicad
batteries', buy the ones with soldering tabs attached, and rebuild
your own battery packs.

Those aren't "soldering tabs". *They're intended to be welded. *Soldering to
the tabs *might* work, but the heat doesn't do the cells any good.

Wrong. They are called solder tabs. *See:http://www.megabatteries.com/?cat1=35
I've rebuilt several battery packs by soldering the tabs and have
never had a problem with the batteries.

Red

Any heat is a nicad killler even the heat of sun and overcharging, but
it takes time to kill them. Ive heard of freezing the cells before
soldering. I soldered a set and clipped on several heat clamps but the
cells still got real hot. Freezing is a good option but usualy by the
time you finish the cells wont fit back in the pack since factory
machine soldering is compact, my pack was a worthless mess when I
finished.

On Jul 18, 1:26*pm, Red wrote:
On Jul 18, 12:37*pm, ransley wrote:



I think you should pick up a few packs, I just asked my worker who is
borrowing my drill why he isnt using his any of his 2- 19.2v sears and
one 18v sears , he said the batteries are about 80-90$$ and they are
bad, I will tell him about sears online. The reason is they have extra
I guess, the buy alot of them in bulk cheap and are selling off a load
real cheap. Batteries in bulk manufacture are the highest profit
margin on the tool. Is it sears regular site?

Sears is having a clearance on lots of their stuff. *Air filters for
my garden tractor's Kohler engine were regularly $15, marked
"clearance" for $8.99, and rang up for $5.99. *When I checked out they
didn't even try to talk me into a Sears credit card. *Makes me wonder
what they're up to?

Red

I bet they are discontinuing 19.2 nicad and lowering prices to move
product on slow sales items. The prices I saw online were really good,
better than any HD Ryobi sale, the sears was 19.2v 89$ for a circ saw,
drill, vac and light. I can also imagine the cordless tool market is
saturated with tools. HDs rigid line is becomming scarce for certain
items in several stores

On Sun, 18 Jul 2010 13:45:57 -0700 (PDT), Red wrote:

On Jul 18, 3:27*pm, "
wrote:


If you're handy with a soldering gun you can search the web for 'nicad
batteries', buy the ones with soldering tabs attached, and rebuild
your own battery packs.

Those aren't "soldering tabs". *They're intended to be welded. *Soldering to
the tabs *might* work, but the heat doesn't do the cells any good.


Wrong. They are called solder tabs. See: http://www.megabatteries.com/?cat1=35
I've rebuilt several battery packs by soldering the tabs and have
never had a problem with the batteries.

I don't care what those fools call them. They are *NOT* solder tabs. They're
intended to be spot welded.

On Sun, 18 Jul 2010 14:35:19 -0700 (PDT), ransley
wrote:

On Jul 18, 1:26*pm, Red wrote:
On Jul 18, 12:37*pm, ransley wrote:



I think you should pick up a few packs, I just asked my worker who is
borrowing my drill why he isnt using his any of his 2- 19.2v sears and
one 18v sears , he said the batteries are about 80-90$$ and they are
bad, I will tell him about sears online. The reason is they have extra
I guess, the buy alot of them in bulk cheap and are selling off a load
real cheap. Batteries in bulk manufacture are the highest profit
margin on the tool. Is it sears regular site?

Sears is having a clearance on lots of their stuff. *Air filters for
my garden tractor's Kohler engine were regularly $15, marked
"clearance" for $8.99, and rang up for $5.99. *When I checked out they
didn't even try to talk me into a Sears credit card. *Makes me wonder
what they're up to?

Red

I bet they are discontinuing 19.2 nicad and lowering prices to move
product on slow sales items. The prices I saw online were really good,
better than any HD Ryobi sale, the sears was 19.2v 89$ for a circ saw,
drill, vac and light. I can also imagine the cordless tool market is
saturated with tools. HDs rigid line is becomming scarce for certain
items in several stores

You're probably right about the saturation, but I think it's also the economy
in general. I noticed that HD cut way back on their inventory and even models
carried last year. I picked up four Bosch 12V LiIon batteries a couple of
months ago for $19 each. Apparently they discontinued the Bosch cordless
tools, so dumped their battery inventory. The local store only carries the
low end lines anymore. The Lowes, right across the street still seems to be
pretty good, though.

Man, that's spooky. Must be something really wrong. Did they at least
offer you a MA (Maintenance Agreement) on that?

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Red" wrote in message
...

Sears is having a clearance on lots of their stuff. Air filters for
my garden tractor's Kohler engine were regularly $15, marked
"clearance" for $8.99, and rang up for $5.99. When I checked out they
didn't even try to talk me into a Sears credit card. Makes me wonder
what they're up to?

Red

Red wrote:
On Jul 18, 3:27 pm, "
wrote:

If you're handy with a soldering gun you can search the web for 'nicad
batteries', buy the ones with soldering tabs attached, and rebuild
your own battery packs.
Those aren't "soldering tabs". They're intended to be welded. Soldering to
the tabs *might* work, but the heat doesn't do the cells any good.


Wrong. They are called solder tabs. See: http://www.megabatteries.com/?cat1=35
I've rebuilt several battery packs by soldering the tabs and have
never had a problem with the batteries.

Red

From what I have seen... if there is a tab on both ends, it's for
soldering to a PC board. I've installed hundreds of them. Maybe over
1000 of them.

If it doesn't have solder tabs, it's either made to go in a battery
holder, or have tabs spot welded for a battery pack.

I've rebuilt a couple battery packs, and if the batteries all had a tab
at each end, it would never look so neat and compact as the originals
because in battery packs the welded tabs go different directions. That
would be difficult to weld them in the proper direction.

There is a chance some may come with tabs on one end, then it's also for
spot welding together for a battery pack. They can still rotate it so
the one tab is pointing the right direction and the other end gets
welded in what ever position is needed.

Look at some old, old mother boards and you will see a battery soldered
on the board. That was before they went to the user replaceable flat
ones. Actually the flat ones can also come with solder tabs also. I've
replaced some of them also in equipment I've worked on.

wrote

I don't care what those fools call them. They are *NOT* solder tabs.
They're
intended to be spot welded.


I don't doubt you, but . . . . . .
I did a quick search to see what others call them. Most companies selling
the cells call them solder tabs or flat tops. One called them tagged.
Those Brits call a hood a bonnet though so don't trust them.
http://www.budgetbatteries.co.uk/201...ll-100afh/NiCd and NiMH rechargeable industrial batteries of all sizes, most of whichare tagged for soldering or making into battery packsSo far, none have called them weld tabs. You have a lot of work ahead of youcorrecting all these people.

On Jul 18, 4:30*pm, ransley wrote:
On Jul 18, 3:45*pm, Red wrote:



On Jul 18, 3:27*pm, "

wrote:

If you're handy with a soldering gun you can search the web for 'nicad
batteries', buy the ones with soldering tabs attached, and rebuild
your own battery packs.

Those aren't "soldering tabs". *They're intended to be welded. *Soldering to
the tabs *might* work, but the heat doesn't do the cells any good.

Wrong. They are called solder tabs. *See:http://www.megabatteries.com/?cat1=35
I've rebuilt several battery packs by soldering the tabs and have
never had a problem with the batteries.

Red

Any heat is a nicad killler even the heat of sun and overcharging, but
it takes time to kill them. Ive heard of freezing the cells before
soldering. I soldered a set and clipped on several heat clamps but the
cells still got real hot. Freezing is a good option but usualy by the
time you finish the cells wont fit back in the pack since factory
machine soldering is compact, my pack was a worthless mess when I
finished.

Just like soldering copper pipe correctly, there is a proper technique
to soldering battery tabs. First off is the correct heat. A 25w
pencil soldering iron is too small - it overheats the battery before
the tab is soldered. So will a big assed gun. A 40w does just fine.
If you are neat the batteries will fit back in the pack. Tin the
solder tabs. Fold the tab to overlap the adjacent tab. Snip any
excess. Use a toothpick to the 2 tabs in contact with each other while
touching the overlap with the hot soldering iron. Get off as fast as
soon as you see the solder melt. Being fast prevents heat buildup in
the battery.
Anyone who has soldered printed circuit boards without raising the
lands can easily solder battery tabs without damage. As I said, I've
rebuilt several, they fit back into the case, and the batteries work
fine. But I don't think I would try soldering the flat top batteries
because the heat requirements are vastly different from just soldering
tabs.
Red

On Jul 18, 6:25*pm, Tony wrote:


*From what I have seen... if there is a tab on both ends, it's for
soldering to a PC board. *

Or to each other. Soldering is soldering.


I've rebuilt a couple battery packs, and if the batteries all had a tab
at each end, it would never look so neat and compact as the originals
because in battery packs the welded tabs go different directions. *That
would be difficult to weld them in the proper direction.

You'll never see the difference once you put it in the battery case
and put the top on.

There is a chance some may come with tabs on one end, then it's also for
spot welding together for a battery pack. *They can still rotate it so
the one tab is pointing the right direction and the other end gets
welded in what ever position is needed.

The tabs are of soft metal and can be easily folded to what ever angle
you need to meet the tab from the next battery. Squeeze the fold with
a pair of longnose pliers and it's nearly flat as the tab. True it's
not pretty, but once in the case no one will see it.


Look at some old, old mother boards and you will see a battery soldered
on the board. *That was before they went to the user replaceable flat
ones. *Actually the flat ones can also come with solder tabs also. *I've
replaced some of them also in equipment I've worked on.

My point exactly. Those batteries were soldered without destroying
them, contrary to some other's opinions.

Red

On Sun, 18 Jul 2010 22:30:43 -0400, "Ed Pawlowski" wrote:


wrote

I don't care what those fools call them. They are *NOT* solder tabs.
They're
intended to be spot welded.


I don't doubt you, but . . . . . .
I did a quick search to see what others call them. Most companies selling
the cells call them solder tabs or flat tops. One called them tagged.
Those Brits call a hood a bonnet though so don't trust them.
http://www.budgetbatteries.co.uk/201...ll-100afh/NiCd and NiMH rechargeable industrial batteries of all sizes, most of whichare tagged for soldering or making into battery packsSo far, none have called them weld tabs. You have a lot of work ahead of youcorrecting all these people.

Find me a battery _manufacturer_ that calls the tabs on a Sub-C battery
"solder tabs", and *maybe* I'll believe you.