Lee Michaels wrote:


The only comment I would make about the present design is that it
apparently depends on you cranking down the handles on top to get the
clamp under the top. This takes a fair amount of time and if you
have to do much clamping, it will be frustrating. I would leave
enough room to put the clamp on there without having to adjust the
handle.

Good catch Lee. That would be a PITA.

--

-Mike-

"Bill" wrote:

I changed the way the top box is affixed, adjusting it's size
slightly. If anyone besides me is
considering this project or just wants to see, the new pic is the
2nd one.

http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/
-------------------------------------------
Do yourself a favor and buy a box (100) of 1/2"-13 x 4" lg hex head
bolts,

a box of (100) of 1/2"-13 hex nuts and 5 pound box of fender washers.

Lay out the bolt holes using trig function calculations.

Assemble and get a beer.

Enjoy the results of your efforts and move on to next job.

BTW, buying full boxes of fasteners is the ONLY way to get
a decent price.

Lew

"Lew Hodgett" wrote
Do yourself a favor and buy a box (100) of 1/2"-13 x 4" lg hex head bolts,

a box of (100) of 1/2"-13 hex nuts and 5 pound box of fender washers.

Lay out the bolt holes using trig function calculations.

Assemble and get a beer.

Enjoy the results of your efforts and move on to next job.

BTW, buying full boxes of fasteners is the ONLY way to get
a decent price.

There are a lot of advantages to that approach. The include;

1) You often have to go to a fastener supply house. They have folks there
who know fasteners and are a terrific resource when do various projects.

2) As Lew mentioned, buying by the box does drive the price down.
Sometimes quite dramatically. I have purchased les than 20 of a fastener in
a retail store that cost more than the box of a hundred from the industrial
supply house.

3) A fastener place has an incredible selection. You can get something
that does the job right. Instead of making do with whatever is available
down the street.

4) You end up with a supply of fasteners, parts and scrap wood laying
around. You end up with resources that allow you to build and repair things
with no or minimal cash or trips to buy things. Sometimes you can thro a
project together quick and fast that would cost big bucks or huge amounts of
time other wise.

5) You become the envy of your tool klutz friends. Maybe even impress the
mother in law!

Lew Hodgett wrote:
"Bill" wrote:

I changed the way the top box is affixed, adjusting it's size
slightly. If anyone besides me is
considering this project or just wants to see, the new pic is the
2nd one.

http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/
-------------------------------------------
Do yourself a favor and buy a box (100) of 1/2"-13 x 4" lg hex head
bolts,

a box of (100) of 1/2"-13 hex nuts and 5 pound box of fender washers.
It seems that those would be useful at top and bottom of the vertical
"risers" (8 in all). Would you use them in additional places on this
project?
I have been intending to make liberal use of lag bolts to hold most of the
pieces together. Advice is always welcome!

Bill



Lay out the bolt holes using trig function calculations.

Assemble and get a beer.

Enjoy the results of your efforts and move on to next job.

BTW, buying full boxes of fasteners is the ONLY way to get
a decent price.

Lew

"Bill" wrote
Lee Michaels wrote:

The only comment I would make about the present design is that it
apparently depends on you cranking down the handles on top to get the
clamp under the top. This takes a fair amount of time and if you have to
do much clamping, it will be frustrating. I would leave enough room to
put the clamp on there without having to adjust the handle.

That's a good suggestion, Lee. My next step has to be to take a look at
my clamps, and see whether I need to make any adjustments. I didn't think
of the issue you mentioned, and you are absolutely right!

As someone who has built things that I have used for over thirty years, let
me tell you, you screw up on something, you will live with it forever more.
Always leave some kind of fudge factor in every thing that you do. You may
get some clamps that have longer handles than the clamps you have now. You
may need to get your hand under the top or between the clamps to get one
out. It never hurts to provide a little extra room to get your hand in
there. Or to a different size clamp on there.

Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote:

I changed the way the top box is affixed, adjusting it's size
slightly. If anyone besides me is
considering this project or just wants to see, the new pic is the 2nd
one.
http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

Hey Bill - how do you save those models so that you can put them on your web
page?
In SU, Under File in the menubar, I choose Export, then 2-D graphics,
then name a jpg file as a destination.

I edit my html file, insert the image, and transfer (FTP) the jpg file
and updated html file to a web server (I use NewsGuy).

The whole process takes little more than 90 seconds once you've done it
a few times.

Let me know if I may clarify any of that. The main think you need is
access to a web server (NewsGuy charges
me $60 a year, for use of their web server, my newsgroup access, and a
bunch of resources I've never used).

Bill

Bill wrote:

It seems that those would be useful at top and bottom of the vertical
"risers" (8 in all). Would you use them in additional places on this
project?
I have been intending to make liberal use of lag bolts to hold most
of the pieces together. Advice is always welcome!


Nuts and bolts are far superior to lag bolts Bill. Think of lags as a
fastener of last resort for things that require strength.

--

-Mike-

Bill wrote:

In SU, Under File in the menubar, I choose Export, then 2-D graphics,
then name a jpg file as a destination.


That's what I was after - thanks Bill.

--

-Mike-

"Bill" wrote:
It seems that those would be useful at top and bottom of the
vertical
"risers" (8 in all). Would you use them in additional places on
this project?
I have been intending to make liberal use of lag bolts to hold most
of the
pieces together. Advice is always welcome!
---------------------------------------------------------------
If I were to do this job, would bolt the whole damn thing together
including
casters.

BTW, 3" casters are a little small IMO. I'd use at least 4", probably
even 5".

Trying to move something heavy with ity bitty casters is a total PITA,
IMHO.

Can't think which I have greater distain for, lag bolts or
carriage (AKA: coach) bolts.

Both are about as useless as a set of breasts on a boar hog, IMHO.

Consider the following:

Assemble a triangle consisting of a couple of 2x4 about 6'-7' long
and another 2x4 about 3' long and a 3" strap hinge in each inside
corner with 1/4"-20 x 2" hex hd bolts, hex nuts and fender washers.

Casters bolt to bottom of 2x4 x 3' long piece.

Built 2 triangles for a left and a right side.

Use 2x4 x 4 ft cross pieces bolted with 1/2" bolts to complete
structure
and provide the strap to hang clamps on the front and back.

Space straps as needed to hang clamps.

Will also need some 1x3 furring strips to hold the spring clamps.

Stable, strong like bull, easily modified as needs change with time.

You want boxes, add as needed.

Lew

Lew Hodgett wrote:
"Bill" wrote:
It seems that those would be useful at top and bottom of the
vertical
"risers" (8 in all). Would you use them in additional places on
this project?
I have been intending to make liberal use of lag bolts to hold most
of the
pieces together. Advice is always welcome!
---------------------------------------------------------------
If I were to do this job, would bolt the snip

Printed for closer reading, Lew. Thanks!

On Fri, 01 Feb 2013 15:25:54 -0500, Bill
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Thu, 31 Jan 2013 21:01:34 -0500, Bill
wrote:

Mike Marlow wrote:
Congratulations on the saw purchase Bill!. I'm sure you'll love it!

A suggestion - start a new thread when you are posting something new like
this. It gets lost in the thread when you just keep adding it to a past
thread.

Did you really miss the bird in my diagram of a clamp stand (I haven't
changed it, look again-lol)?
http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/
I was wondering WTF that boid was doing there. g
Fresh perch, too, huh?



I changed the way the top box is affixed, adjusting it's size slightly.

Will the top box use hand cut dovies and be made from Bubinga or
Wenge?
Are you using Japanese puzzle joinery to affix the uprights to it?
http://tinyurl.com/d6t4k7z


If anyone besides me is
considering this project or just wants to see, the new pic is the 2nd one.

http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

The boid shows up more now. What's it up there for? You never
'splained, Bill.


8-degrees F. this morning. Still chilly in IN!

It's a balmy 38F here in SoOR.

Bill


--
I’ve long been passionate about protecting and expanding democracy,
which is really the only viable mechanism to preserve liberty and
distribute power from kings to the rest of us.
--George Farah

On Fri, 01 Feb 2013 16:08:53 -0500, Bill
wrote:

Lee Michaels wrote:


"Bill" wrote

I changed the way the top box is affixed, adjusting it's size
slightly. If anyone besides me is
considering this project or just wants to see, the new pic is the 2nd
one.

http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

8-degrees F. this morning. Still chilly in IN!

I was a little confused by the various animals on the box on the top
of this clamp stand. Then I figured it out. It is a litter box! You
must be a real animal lover. ;-)

Actually, I looked in the SU Warehouse for "Acanthus foilage" first,
but they didn't have that. They didn't have any Cardinal's either. You

Try "foliage" and "cardinals" next time, Wee Willy. You still might
not find them, but at least you'd have spelled the words correctly.
gd&r


get what you get!
David Letterman is from Indiana too, but people think he's funny.

He usually is, despite his being a silly liberal.


The only comment I would make about the present design is that it
apparently depends on you cranking down the handles on top to get the
clamp under the top. This takes a fair amount of time and if you have
to do much clamping, it will be frustrating. I would leave enough
room to put the clamp on there without having to adjust the handle.

That's a good suggestion, Lee. My next step has to be to take a look at
my clamps, and see whether I need to make any adjustments. I didn't
think of the issue you mentioned, and you are absolutely right!

Mine self-lock by sliding the free end up near the top. The screws
hook behind the board and prevent their loss. No need to tighten
anything and it only takes a second to secure or release 'em. I can
release 4 simultaneously with one hand.

Alternatively, hang them upside down with the screws extended to hold
them on.

--
I’ve long been passionate about protecting and expanding democracy,
which is really the only viable mechanism to preserve liberty and
distribute power from kings to the rest of us.
--George Farah

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Fri, 01 Feb 2013 15:25:54 -0500, Bill
wrote:

If anyone besides me is
considering this project or just wants to see, the new pic is the 2nd one.

http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/
The boid shows up more now.
No, the same bird was there all the time.

What's it up there for? You never
'splained, Bill.
It's kind of like a hood ornament. It's just there to add interest to my
model--sort of like
the woman in the Mercedes Superbowl commercial I posted a link to last week.
Of course, the marlin was related to my recent OT post on hunting--I
thought you wood have made the connection!
I hope you thought he was amusing, because I think it took me at least
10 minutes to get him to pose in that box! : )

Cheers,
Bill


8-degrees F. this morning. Still chilly in IN!
It's a balmy 38F here in SoOR.

Bill

--
I’ve long been passionate about protecting and expanding democracy,
which is really the only viable mechanism to preserve liberty and
distribute power from kings to the rest of us.
--George Farah

Larry Jaques wrote:
What's it up there for? You never 'splained, Bill.

It's so if I ever see anyone's clamp rack with a marlin, I'll know where
they got the idea! ; )

Now, that's funny, right there!

On Sat, 02 Feb 2013 14:14:07 -0500, Bill
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Fri, 01 Feb 2013 15:25:54 -0500, Bill
wrote:

If anyone besides me is
considering this project or just wants to see, the new pic is the 2nd one.

http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/
The boid shows up more now.
No, the same bird was there all the time.

What's it up there for? You never
'splained, Bill.
It's kind of like a hood ornament. It's just there to add interest to my
model--sort of like

Oh, it's "BLING!" Got it. Why not Mexichrome it, too? (Paint it
with silver spray paint.)


the woman in the Mercedes Superbowl commercial I posted a link to last week.
Of course, the marlin was related to my recent OT post on hunting--I
thought you wood have made the connection!

I must have missed that one. Marlin _hunt_ing? (I thought it was
fishing or boat-sinking)

I hope you thought he was amusing, because I think it took me at least
10 minutes to get him to pose in that box! : )

Suuure it did. g


--
I’ve long been passionate about protecting and expanding democracy,
which is really the only viable mechanism to preserve liberty and
distribute power from kings to the rest of us.
--George Farah

That's a good suggestion, Lee. My next step has to be to take a look at
my clamps, and see whether I need to make any adjustments. I didn't think
of the issue you mentioned, and you are absolutely right!

Actually, no he isn't. The length of the clamp handle tip to the pad it
pushes on is always a fixed length. The end of the pipe or the beam goes up
or down on the screw, but it does not affect the clearance to a cross piece
above it.

I would suggest one modification. A bar on a pivot that can be lowered over
the clamps a few inches below where they sit, for when you move the cart.
It seems I always hit a cord or block of wood, the rack stops quickly, and
half of the clamps fall off on my head or toes.
--
Jim in NC

"Morgans" wrote in :

I would suggest one modification. A bar on a pivot that can be lowered over
the clamps a few inches below where they sit, for when you move the cart.
It seems I always hit a cord or block of wood, the rack stops quickly, and
half of the clamps fall off on my head or toes.

Easier and cheaper means of accomplishing the same purpose: drill holes in the frame to
hook bungee cords into.

Morgans wrote:
That's a good suggestion, Lee. My next step has to be to take a
look at my clamps, and see whether I need to make any adjustments. I
didn't think of the issue you mentioned, and you are absolutely
right!

Actually, no he isn't. The length of the clamp handle tip to the pad
it pushes on is always a fixed length. The end of the pipe or the
beam goes up or down on the screw, but it does not affect the
clearance to a cross piece above it.

I would suggest one modification. A bar on a pivot that can be
lowered over the clamps a few inches below where they sit, for when
you move the cart. It seems I always hit a cord or block of wood, the
rack stops quickly, and half of the clamps fall off on my head or
toes.

Pivoting bars - BAH! Duct Tape!

--

-Mike-

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
...
"Morgans" wrote in
:

I would suggest one modification. A bar on a pivot that can be lowered
over
the clamps a few inches below where they sit, for when you move the cart.
It seems I always hit a cord or block of wood, the rack stops quickly,
and
half of the clamps fall off on my head or toes.

Easier and cheaper means of accomplishing the same purpose: drill holes in
the frame to
hook bungee cords into.


Idea = +1