On Sun, 27 Jan 2013 02:28:14 -0500, Bill
wrote:

Bill wrote:
On 1/25/2013 12:13 PM, Lee Michaels wrote:

A triangle brace made from plywood, nailed or screwed
to the vertical component and tied into the base would definitely make
it more sturdy.

Thank you for your other comments and especially the one above. I
Could Not see how to attach the vertical component well.



Remember, all kinds of idiots and "home handymen" make wobbly crap. But
real men and craftsman make their project sturdy and functional.

A lot of good thoughts were posted along these lines! I will try to
post a new diagram soon to help confirm that I understood them.

Cheers,
Bill


I took another shot at my clamp stand diagram:

http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

Perfect. Jussst short enough to prevent 5' clamps from fitting.
(Whaddya mean, you don't have any 5' clamps?)


1) Surely my wooden triangles at the bases need to be at little beefier.

Yeah, go 6x8, at _least_. =Pimp= that ride, son.


2) After all that, I still am not sure how to attach my castors which
have 2.5" wide bases. Surely they should be on the "outside".

Casters can be attached with drywall screws, lag bolts, or whatever
else you have on hand. It's not like they get a workout.


All I can think of is to use 3/8" hex bolts, say, to attach a pair of
2by4's on the bottom like I had in my earlier picture,
attaching the castors to them with lag bolts. The the hex bolts would
need to miss the 1.5" wide lip on the base
as they come through floor (and thus would not be attached in an ideal
manner). A better way?

Lags through the 2x2, nuts and bolts thru the floor. 1/4" is plenty
sturdy.

--
Poverty is easy. It's Charity and Chastity that are hard.
--anon

On Sun, 27 Jan 2013 04:06:35 -0500, "Lee Michaels"
leemichaels*nadaspam* at comcast dot net wrote:

1) Beef up the base/bottom. I would put, at least, a short length of 2 X 4
underneath the plywood on the short size. You could always do a lap joint
and put one the long way too. This would make the base heavier and
stronger. And it would give you a good place to securely mount some
castors. And I have mount caster like this to 2 X 4's many times. Some of
those are still going strong after 30 years.

There is no way beefing up a -wooden- base will ever add stability to
an extremely top-heavy iron monstrosity like a clamp tree. Dimensions,
not weight, will do that.


2) Those "triangles" look like dainty little finger food. What are you? A
woodworker or a chef? To adequately support a vertical component, you need
to place it outside of the leg. But in this case I would just use a board
(or plywood) and just nail (or screw) it to the outside of the platform. If
you got a piece of 2 X 4 underneath there, Just fasten a taller piece of
wood and run it across the whole length of the side. This will tie the leg
securely to the base.

Jeeze, guys. A single drywall screw through the base would hold that
thing together just fine. 2, 4, or 5 would make Bill happier, though.



3) Remember, this thing isn't going to work very well unless it is solid.

Granted, it might break if you were to use single drywall screws to
hold the entire thing together and it fell over, but those little
things would make it perfectly sturdy and strong for every other
happenstance. 1/4" lags would be plenty strong enough.

C'mon, guys. This is a _rest_ for your clamps.

--
Poverty is easy. It's Charity and Chastity that are hard.
--anon

Bill wrote:


I took another shot at my clamp stand diagram:

http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

1) Surely my wooden triangles at the bases need to be at little
beefier.

It surely is developing Bill. Your triangles are not going to offer a lot
of added strength or rigidty in that plane. I understand that they are
pictured as undersized, but even larger, they arent' going to add much to
what you already achieve by having the intermediate shelf mid way up. There
is not a lot of racking this is going to exhibit itself in the plane that
those triangles would address. If you are truely concerned about racking
then I'd suggest that triangles in the direction 90 degrees from what you
show would be more effective. I'm not even sure you need those though, with
the stabilizing effect of the intermediate shelf. Certainly, a triangle is
more stable than a rectangle, but there is a point of diminishing returns in
things.


2) After all that, I still am not sure how to attach my castors which
have 2.5" wide bases. Surely they should be on the "outside".
All I can think of is to use 3/8" hex bolts, say, to attach a pair of
2by4's on the bottom like I had in my earlier picture,
attaching the castors to them with lag bolts. The the hex bolts would
need to miss the 1.5" wide lip on the base
as they come through floor (and thus would not be attached in an ideal
manner). A better way?

One thought - attach the castors to a piece of plywood scrap from your base,
that is either triangular or rectangular, and is sufficient size to allow
maybe 1/2" beyond the footprint of the castor base. Counter sink, and bolt
(bolt, lock washer, and nut) the castor to this piece. Simply use wood
screws to attach the assembly to the bottom of the base (into the edge
banding fo the base). This would contain the castors within the footprint
of the bottom shelf. Alternatively, you could screw a 2x4 to the bottom of
the base that extends a few inches beyond it to each side, and through bolt
your castors to that. I would through bolt in either case.

Lag bolts are fine to secure the assembly mentioned above to the base, just
be careful not to use too fat of a lag bolt since you don't have a lot of
length available to you, and going too fat without being able to go long
enough will make a weak attachment. Better to go a little smaller diameter
lag bolt so you are well up into the full diameter of the lag when the lag
is fully seated. Should you ever need to replace a castor, you simply
unscrew this assembly, unbolt the castor from the plywood, and replace. You
could use 2x4s for this assembly, but 3/4" plywood would be plenty
sufficient for the application, even with all of the anticipated weight.

My only other immediate observation is the height of that top shelf. I
believe you are a tall fellow - certainly taller than me, but that top shelf
which is really a box, looks like it will be hard to see into. I don't know
about you, but I hate not being able to see into something like that. It
can certainly work - especially if something like spring clamps for example)
are just thrown in up there, and all you really have to do is reach up and
grab whatever your hand comes in contact with, but if being able to identify
what you're reaching for is a requirement, then that might pose a problem.

Keep it going guy - it's certainly coming along.

--

-Mike-

Mike Marlow wrote:


My only other immediate observation is the height of that top shelf. I
believe you are a tall fellow - certainly taller than me, but that
top shelf which is really a box, looks like it will be hard to see
into. I don't know about you, but I hate not being able to see into
something like that. It can certainly work - especially if something
like spring clamps for example) are just thrown in up there, and all
you really have to do is reach up and grab whatever your hand comes
in contact with, but if being able to identify what you're reaching
for is a requirement, then that might pose a problem.

Argh! Nix on that thought Bill. I guess I can't compute inches into feet
this morning. Even I could see into that box at 54". Sorry...

--

-Mike-

Larry Jaques wrote:
All I can think of is to use 3/8" hex bolts, say, to attach a pair of
2by4's on the bottom like I had in my earlier picture,
attaching the castors to them with lag bolts. The the hex bolts would
need to miss the 1.5" wide lip on the base
as they come through floor (and thus would not be attached in an ideal
manner). A better way?
Lags through the 2x2, nuts and bolts thru the floor. 1/4" is plenty
sturdy.
Now that's thinking "out of the box". Interesting approach.


--
Poverty is easy. It's Charity and Chastity that are hard.
--anon

Larry Jaques wrote:
Perfect. Jussst short enough to prevent 5' clamps from fitting.
(Whaddya mean, you don't have any 5' clamps?)

I already have twelve or thirteen 4-foot pipe clamps, plus connectors. I
have even already used them in pairs (when I
built my workbench last summer). As everyone is aware, height is
something of a liability here. But, as you said, it
is true that I don't have any 5' clamps. I made 8-foot clamps when I
needed them.

Cheers,
Bill

On 1/27/2013 1:28 AM, Bill wrote:

http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/


If you bring the short 'sides' of your middle shelf to the outside of
your uprights ... instead of in between them as drawn ... and span the
angled sides the same way you have the boards that hold the clamps span
the front, you will not only strengthen/increase the rigidity of the
structure, you will also be making that middle shelf easier to build.

Just a thought ...

1) Surely my wooden triangles at the bases need to be at little
beefier.

If you do the above, they will become even more unnecessary than they
are now.

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

Mike Marlow wrote:
My only other immediate observation is the height of that top shelf. I
believe you are a tall fellow - certainly taller than me, but that top
shelf which is really a box, looks like it will be hard to see into. I
don't know about you, but I hate not being able to see into something
like that.

Yes, the edges of the box are getting to be on the high side--and it's
not intended to be a very deep box, and neither is the middle one. Just
a place to put a bottle of glue, etc.

I'm still digesting all of the suggestions that I recieved concerning
the castors.

I'm sorry that no one liked my "triangles" ; ) As everyone here
understands, "designing" means taking a chance sometimes. They looked
better in my head than they do in the SU drawing!

I'll get back to the drawing board as soon as I can.

Cheers,
Bill

On 1/27/2013 1:28 AM, Bill wrote:

I took another shot at my clamp stand diagram:

http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

Bill, you keep this up and you can eventually start a new trend for the
ww mags!

During the first decade of the 21st century each woodworking magazine,
almost without exception and on a monthly basis, featured "The Ultimate
Router Table" as a come-on.



--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

Mike Marlow wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote:

My only other immediate observation is the height of that top shelf. I
believe you are a tall fellow - certainly taller than me, but that
top shelf which is really a box, looks like it will be hard to see
into. I don't know about you, but I hate not being able to see into
something like that. It can certainly work - especially if something
like spring clamps for example) are just thrown in up there, and all
you really have to do is reach up and grab whatever your hand comes
in contact with, but if being able to identify what you're reaching
for is a requirement, then that might pose a problem.
Argh! Nix on that thought Bill. I guess I can't compute inches into feet
this morning. Even I could see into that box at 54". Sorry...

No, you were correct the first time, and right
to be concerned.The 54" is the diagonal length
where the clamps lie. I would like to be able to peek down
into the box on top, and it's getting really close.
I may have to buya new pair of shoes!

Bill

On Sun, 27 Jan 2013 12:24:30 -0500, Bill
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:
All I can think of is to use 3/8" hex bolts, say, to attach a pair of
2by4's on the bottom like I had in my earlier picture,
attaching the castors to them with lag bolts. The the hex bolts would
need to miss the 1.5" wide lip on the base
as they come through floor (and thus would not be attached in an ideal
manner). A better way?
Lags through the 2x2, nuts and bolts thru the floor. 1/4" is plenty
sturdy.
Now that's thinking "out of the box". Interesting approach.

I've mounted casters to a plywood base using 1/4" bolts, and T-nuts
recessed into the top of the plywood - the hardware won't interfere
with anything you are putting on top of the base.



--
Peter Bennett, VE7CEI Vancouver BC
peterbb (at) telus.net
Vancouver Power Squadron: http://vancouver.powersquadron.ca

Swingman wrote:
On 1/27/2013 1:28 AM, Bill wrote:

http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/


If you bring the short 'sides' of your middle shelf to the outside of
your uprights ... instead of in between them as drawn ... and span the
angled sides the same way you have the boards that hold the clamps
span the front, you will not only strengthen/increase the rigidity of
the structure, you will also be making that middle shelf easier to build.

Just a thought ...

It'a *good* thought! I think the design will look better that way too.
It presently looks disorganized in the middle.

Swingman wrote:
On 1/27/2013 1:28 AM, Bill wrote:

I took another shot at my clamp stand diagram:

http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

Bill, you keep this up and you can eventually start a new trend for
the ww mags!

I like your notion of "crowd-sourced" projects! It's a little like
working on a crossword puzzle together.

Did you recognize that I used Leon's clamps (scaled by 2/3 from 72" to
48")? I'm not sure whether he
downloaded them or made them himself.

See picture #4 at this site (to see:Crossword Kibitzers by Marvin
Kaisersatt), an award winning carving:
http://www.woodworkersinstitute.com/page.asp?p=2918

On 1/27/2013 2:07 PM, Bill wrote:

I like your notion of "crowd-sourced" projects! It's a little like
working on a crossword puzzle together.

"Crowdsourcing" has been the rage buzzword/concept for geeks on the
interwebs these past few years ... From Wikipedia:

"Today, crowdsourcing has transferred mainly to the Internet. The
Internet provides a particularly good venue for crowdsourcing ...This
ultimately allows for well-designed artistic projects because
individuals are less conscious, or maybe even less aware, of scrutiny
towards their work. In an online atmosphere more attention is given to
the project rather than communication with other individuals....
Explicit crowdsourcing lets users work together to evaluate, share, and
build different specific tasks ...With explicit crowdsourcing, users can
evaluate particular items like books or webpages, or share by posting
products or items. Users can also build artifacts by providing
information and editing other people's work."

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 1/27/2013 2:07 PM, Bill wrote:
Swingman wrote:
On 1/27/2013 1:28 AM, Bill wrote:

I took another shot at my clamp stand diagram:

http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

Bill, you keep this up and you can eventually start a new trend for
the ww mags!

I like your notion of "crowd-sourced" projects! It's a little like
working on a crossword puzzle together.

Did you recognize that I used Leon's clamps (scaled by 2/3 from 72" to
48")? I'm not sure whether he
downloaded them or made them himself.

I got the clamps from the 3D warehouse accessed through Sketchup. Click
File, 3D Warehouse, Ge tmodels.






See picture #4 at this site (to see:Crossword Kibitzers by Marvin
Kaisersatt), an award winning carving:
http://www.woodworkersinstitute.com/page.asp?p=2918

Bill wrote:
Larry Jaques wrote:
All I can think of is to use 3/8" hex bolts, say, to attach a pair
of 2by4's on the bottom like I had in my earlier picture,
attaching the castors to them with lag bolts. The the hex bolts
would need to miss the 1.5" wide lip on the base
as they come through floor (and thus would not be attached in an
ideal manner). A better way?
Lags through the 2x2, nuts and bolts thru the floor. 1/4" is plenty
sturdy.
Now that's thinking "out of the box". Interesting approach.


Actually, nuts and bolts is pretty much the norm.

--

-Mike-

Lee Michaels wrote:


"Bill" wrote in message
...
Bill wrote:
On 1/25/2013 12:13 PM, Lee Michaels wrote:

A triangle brace made from plywood, nailed or screwed
to the vertical component and tied into the base would definitely make
it more sturdy.

Thank you for your other comments and especially the one above. I
Could Not see how to attach the vertical component well.



Remember, all kinds of idiots and "home handymen" make wobbly
crap. But
real men and craftsman make their project sturdy and functional.

A lot of good thoughts were posted along these lines! I will try to
post a new diagram soon to help confirm that I understood them.

Cheers,
Bill


I took another shot at my clamp stand diagram:

http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

1) Surely my wooden triangles at the bases need to be at little beefier.

2) After all that, I still am not sure how to attach my castors which
have 2.5" wide bases. Surely they should be on the "outside".
All I can think of is to use 3/8" hex bolts, say, to attach a pair of
2by4's on the bottom like I had in my earlier picture,
attaching the castors to them with lag bolts. The the hex bolts would
need to miss the 1.5" wide lip on the base
as they come through floor (and thus would not be attached in an
ideal manner). A better way?

If I was going to use the drawing as a basic design, I would make the
following modifications.

1) Beef up the base/bottom. I would put, at least, a short length of
2 X 4 underneath the plywood on the short size. You could always do a
lap joint and put one the long way too. This would make the base
heavier and stronger. And it would give you a good place to securely
mount some castors. And I have mount caster like this to 2 X 4's many
times. Some of those are still going strong after 30 years.

2) Those "triangles" look like dainty little finger food. What are
you? A woodworker or a chef? To adequately support a vertical
component, you need to place it outside of the leg. But in this case
I would just use a board (or plywood) and just nail (or screw) it to
the outside of the platform. If you got a piece of 2 X 4 underneath
there, Just fasten a taller piece of wood and run it across the whole
length of the side. This will tie the leg securely to the base.

3) Remember, this thing isn't going to work very well unless it is
solid. Make that base heavy and strong. And if you are going to use
triangles, make them much bigger and fasten them to the OUTSIDE of the
base and vertical components. This isn't art or a buffet display. It
is a tool that has to support a fair amount of weight and mover around
too. Build it strong.




Those of you who have been providing me with feedback might enjoy seeing
how I implemented some of the suggestions for far.
I still wish to fine tune the shelf/box on top, and add features to make
a stronger connection at the base. To me, it looks
"less chaotic" now (I thought it looked "busy" before).

http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

Cheers,
Bill

On 1/27/2013 5:23 PM, Bill wrote:
Those of you who have been providing me with feedback might enjoy seeing
how I implemented some of the suggestions for far.
I still wish to fine tune the shelf/box on top, and add features to make
a stronger connection at the base. To me, it looks
"less chaotic" now (I thought it looked "busy" before).

http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

Looks to me like it's just a short hop to a design copyright, and patent
on methodology. ;)

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote:
Larry Jaques wrote:
All I can think of is to use 3/8" hex bolts, say, to attach a pair
of 2by4's on the bottom like I had in my earlier picture,
attaching the castors to them with lag bolts. The the hex bolts
would need to miss the 1.5" wide lip on the base
as they come through floor (and thus would not be attached in an
ideal manner). A better way?
Lags through the 2x2, nuts and bolts thru the floor. 1/4" is plenty
sturdy.
Now that's thinking "out of the box". Interesting approach.

Actually, nuts and bolts is pretty much the norm

I did not (and was not on track to) think of using BOTH nuts and bolts
AND lag bolts to attach a single caster.
Give the man a little credit!

"Bill" wrote

Those of you who have been providing me with feedback might enjoy seeing
how I implemented some of the suggestions for far.
I still wish to fine tune the shelf/box on top, and add features to make a
stronger connection at the base. To me, it looks
"less chaotic" now (I thought it looked "busy" before).

http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

I don't want to sound like a curmudgeon or anything but............, do you
intend to build this thing one of these days??

Bill wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote:
Larry Jaques wrote:
All I can think of is to use 3/8" hex bolts, say, to attach a pair
of 2by4's on the bottom like I had in my earlier picture,
attaching the castors to them with lag bolts. The the hex bolts
would need to miss the 1.5" wide lip on the base
as they come through floor (and thus would not be attached in an
ideal manner). A better way?
Lags through the 2x2, nuts and bolts thru the floor. 1/4" is plenty
sturdy.
Now that's thinking "out of the box". Interesting approach.

Actually, nuts and bolts is pretty much the norm

I did not (and was not on track to) think of using BOTH nuts and
bolts AND lag bolts to attach a single caster.
Give the man a little credit!

I didn't think you were. I thought you were saying that nuts and bolts were
thinking out of the box.

--

-Mike-

Lee Michaels wrote:


"Bill" wrote

Those of you who have been providing me with feedback might enjoy
seeing how I implemented some of the suggestions for far.
I still wish to fine tune the shelf/box on top, and add features to
make a stronger connection at the base. To me, it looks
"less chaotic" now (I thought it looked "busy" before).

http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

I don't want to sound like a curmudgeon or anything but............,
do you intend to build this thing one of these days??

Definitely. I already bought the castors and I will pick up the lumber
this week. A spring breeze would help--I don't have a
basement shop like Doug Miller, and it's like Winter here (good "design
weather"). : )

Bill

On Sun, 27 Jan 2013 20:37:53 -0500, Bill
wrote:

Lee Michaels wrote:


"Bill" wrote

Those of you who have been providing me with feedback might enjoy
seeing how I implemented some of the suggestions for far.
I still wish to fine tune the shelf/box on top, and add features to
make a stronger connection at the base. To me, it looks
"less chaotic" now (I thought it looked "busy" before).

http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

I don't want to sound like a curmudgeon or anything but............,
do you intend to build this thing one of these days??

Definitely. I already bought the castors and I will pick up the lumber
this week. A spring breeze would help--I don't have a
basement shop like Doug Miller, and it's like Winter here (good "design
weather"). : )

Bill

The only question I have, as you don't show a width dimension, is will
all your present clamps fit on it. Not to mention the additional
clamps you add? I like the design so it's a simple question.

Mike M

Bill wrote in :

Definitely. I already bought the castors and I will pick up the lumber
this week. A spring breeze would help--I don't have a
basement shop like Doug Miller, and it's like Winter here (good "design
weather"). : )

It's about 70 degrees in my shop right now, Bill...

On 1/28/2013 12:20 AM, Mike M wrote:

The only question I have, as you don't show a width dimension, is will
all your present clamps fit on it. Not to mention the additional
clamps you add? I like the design so it's a simple question.

Mike M


I'm glad you brought this up. It's due time to unstack my clamps and
see how they stack up hanging on a board! Adding a few inches of
length, if required, is obviously a trivial design change.

Bill

Lee Michaels wrote:


"Bill" wrote

Those of you who have been providing me with feedback might enjoy
seeing how I implemented some of the suggestions for far.
I still wish to fine tune the shelf/box on top, and add features to
make a stronger connection at the base. To me, it looks
"less chaotic" now (I thought it looked "busy" before).

http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

I don't want to sound like a curmudgeon or anything but............,
do you intend to build this thing one of these days??



Got a decent sale today on a miter saw (DeWalt DW713)--that ought to
help with all of the 9-degree angles in this project!

I asked the sales person at Lowes about matching the Menards "11%-Off
Everything" sale, and he said "That's all done at the register".
So I carried the saw to the register and said "The salesman said I
should talk to you about matching the Menards 11% off sale". And she said,
we don't normally match percentages, but since the salesman already told
you, we will. And I got 5% more for using the store CC.

I was thinking when I walked into the store, than I was going to ask
them a question that they must have already answered 200 times
this week. Maybe she was "worn down"? It worked out about the same as
if I had received the $25 sale Dewalt ran over the holidays,
but I missed that one and was kicking myself since I realized that a
miter saw seems ideal for the clamp stand project (I should have got one
last year...)

If anyone needs a new miter saw, this clamp stand is a good project
selection for you! Now, I need a miter saw stand! I was going to say
"next" (after my clamp stand), but maybe "first" would be better! ; )

So Yes, Lee, I'm still planning to build the clamp stand one of these
days! An outdoor plant stand, for my wife, may be nice too.
All I know about the plant stand is where I want it to go (against a
brick wall and standing on graded concrete--a place where someone once
stored an RV).
I'll have fun coming up with something and I think my wife will
appreciate that surprise even more than when she sees the new saw
("...oh, that
shiny old saw, that's been sitting in the corner all the time--and you
just didn't notice it..").

Bill

"Bill" wrote

Got a decent sale today on a miter saw (DeWalt DW713)--that ought to
help with all of the 9-degree angles in this project!
---------------------------------------------------------------------
A little tip.

Layout 9-degree cuts using trig functions rather than angular
settings provided by chop saw.

Lew

Lew Hodgett wrote:
"Bill" wrote

Got a decent sale today on a miter saw (DeWalt DW713)--that ought to
help with all of the 9-degree angles in this project!
---------------------------------------------------------------------
A little tip.

Layout 9-degree cuts using trig functions rather than angular
settings provided by chop saw.

Lew

That's interesting Lew. At first blush that seems a lot less repeatable
than using the guage on the saw table. Why do you suggest that?

--

-Mike-

Mike Marlow wrote:
Lew Hodgett wrote:
"Bill" wrote

Got a decent sale today on a miter saw (DeWalt DW713)--that ought to
help with all of the 9-degree angles in this project!
---------------------------------------------------------------------
A little tip.

Layout 9-degree cuts using trig functions rather than angular
settings provided by chop saw.

Lew
FWIW, I bought myself an early birthday present and ordered the LED light
assessory (DWS7085) that reflects off of the blade ($30). I WILL certainly
experiment and double-check the angles that are being cut . Thank you
for the cautionary note!

I suspect that the saw will be able to "remember" the angle better than
I can consistently mark it.
I'm armed with my dad's (interesting) 8" metal protractor, made my
General Hardware. It features an "L"
on it having a notch that one lines up with the appropriate graduation
mark. It is surely an antique, but
I know I've seen similar for sale. This one came with my name already
etched on the back of it.
Using trig, provided the workpiece is large enough, is probably more
accurate! I will report back on the accuracy
of this saw at its 9-degree setting (or anything else I find that may be
"review-worthy").

Bill


That's interesting Lew. At first blush that seems a lot less repeatable
than using the guage on the saw table. Why do you suggest that?

"Bill" wrote

Got a decent sale today on a miter saw (DeWalt DW713)--that ought to
help with all of the 9-degree angles in this project!
---------------------------------------------------------------------

Lew Hodgett wrote:

A little tip.

Layout 9-degree cuts using trig functions rather than angular
settings provided by chop saw.

Lew
---------------------------------------------------------------
"Mike Marlow" wrote:

That's interesting Lew. At first blush that seems a lot less
repeatable than using the guage on the saw table. Why do you
suggest that?
---------------------------------------------------
It's a matter of scale.

Layout a triangle with a 12"-15" hypotenuse and leg and base as req'd
on a piece of hardboard.

You now have a template.

You will get a far more accurate angle than if you use the typical
protractor
which is usually smaller.

Lew

Lew Hodgett wrote:
"Bill" wrote

Got a decent sale today on a miter saw (DeWalt DW713)--that ought to
help with all of the 9-degree angles in this project!
---------------------------------------------------------------------

Lew Hodgett wrote:

A little tip.

Layout 9-degree cuts using trig functions rather than angular
settings provided by chop saw.

Lew
---------------------------------------------------------------
"Mike Marlow" wrote:

That's interesting Lew. At first blush that seems a lot less
repeatable than using the guage on the saw table. Why do you
suggest that?
---------------------------------------------------
It's a matter of scale.

Layout a triangle with a 12"-15" hypotenuse and leg and base as req'd
on a piece of hardboard.

You now have a template.

You will get a far more accurate angle than if you use the typical
protractor
which is usually smaller.
Yes, good idea.


Lew

Congratulations on the saw purchase Bill!. I'm sure you'll love it!

A suggestion - start a new thread when you are posting something new like
this. It gets lost in the thread when you just keep adding it to a past
thread.

--

-Mike-

On 1/31/2013 12:55 PM, Bill wrote:
Lee Michaels wrote:


"Bill" wrote

Those of you who have been providing me with feedback might enjoy
seeing how I implemented some of the suggestions for far.
I still wish to fine tune the shelf/box on top, and add features to
make a stronger connection at the base. To me, it looks
"less chaotic" now (I thought it looked "busy" before).

http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

I don't want to sound like a curmudgeon or anything but............,
do you intend to build this thing one of these days??



Got a decent sale today on a miter saw (DeWalt DW713)--that ought to
help with all of the 9-degree angles in this project!

I asked the sales person at Lowes about matching the Menards "11%-Off
Everything" sale, and he said "That's all done at the register".
So I carried the saw to the register and said "The salesman said I
should talk to you about matching the Menards 11% off sale". And she said,
we don't normally match percentages, but since the salesman already told
you, we will. And I got 5% more for using the store CC.

I was thinking when I walked into the store, than I was going to ask
them a question that they must have already answered 200 times
this week. Maybe she was "worn down"? It worked out about the same as
if I had received the $25 sale Dewalt ran over the holidays,
but I missed that one and was kicking myself since I realized that a
miter saw seems ideal for the clamp stand project (I should have got one
last year...)

If anyone needs a new miter saw, this clamp stand is a good project
selection for you! Now, I need a miter saw stand! I was going to say
"next" (after my clamp stand), but maybe "first" would be better! ; )

So Yes, Lee, I'm still planning to build the clamp stand one of these
days! An outdoor plant stand, for my wife, may be nice too.
All I know about the plant stand is where I want it to go (against a
brick wall and standing on graded concrete--a place where someone once
stored an RV).
I'll have fun coming up with something and I think my wife will
appreciate that surprise even more than when she sees the new saw
("...oh, that
shiny old saw, that's been sitting in the corner all the time--and you
just didn't notice it..").

Bill




Annnnnnnnnnd here is where Bill delays the building of a project because
he needs to build a project for the special tool needed for the other
project and before we know it Bill has taken up knitting to make covers
for all his fine machinery. g.d.& r.

Mike Marlow wrote:
Congratulations on the saw purchase Bill!. I'm sure you'll love it!

A suggestion - start a new thread when you are posting something new like
this. It gets lost in the thread when you just keep adding it to a past
thread.

Did you really miss the bird in my diagram of a clamp stand (I haven't
changed it, look again-lol)?
http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

Mike Marlow wrote:
Congratulations on the saw purchase Bill!. I'm sure you'll love it!

Thank you, Mike. I expect the saw to improve the quality of my work and
save me alot of time on this clamp stand project. I probably haven't
uttered my last word about it yet. As the musicians stay, "Stay
tuned!" : )

Bill

A suggestion - start a new thread when you are posting something new like
this. It gets lost in the thread when you just keep adding it to a past
thread.

On Thu, 31 Jan 2013 21:01:34 -0500, Bill
wrote:

Mike Marlow wrote:
Congratulations on the saw purchase Bill!. I'm sure you'll love it!

A suggestion - start a new thread when you are posting something new like
this. It gets lost in the thread when you just keep adding it to a past
thread.

Did you really miss the bird in my diagram of a clamp stand (I haven't
changed it, look again-lol)?
http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

I was wondering WTF that boid was doing there. g
Fresh perch, too, huh?

--
I’ve long been passionate about protecting and expanding democracy,
which is really the only viable mechanism to preserve liberty and
distribute power from kings to the rest of us.
--George Farah

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Thu, 31 Jan 2013 21:01:34 -0500, Bill
wrote:

Mike Marlow wrote:
Congratulations on the saw purchase Bill!. I'm sure you'll love it!

A suggestion - start a new thread when you are posting something new like
this. It gets lost in the thread when you just keep adding it to a past
thread.

Did you really miss the bird in my diagram of a clamp stand (I haven't
changed it, look again-lol)?
http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/
I was wondering WTF that boid was doing there. g
Fresh perch, too, huh?



I changed the way the top box is affixed, adjusting it's size slightly.
If anyone besides me is
considering this project or just wants to see, the new pic is the 2nd one.

http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

8-degrees F. this morning. Still chilly in IN!

Bill

"Bill" wrote

I changed the way the top box is affixed, adjusting it's size slightly.
If anyone besides me is
considering this project or just wants to see, the new pic is the 2nd one.

http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

8-degrees F. this morning. Still chilly in IN!

I was a little confused by the various animals on the box on the top of this
clamp stand. Then I figured it out. It is a litter box! You must be a
real animal lover. ;-)

The only comment I would make about the present design is that it apparently
depends on you cranking down the handles on top to get the clamp under the
top. This takes a fair amount of time and if you have to do much clamping,
it will be frustrating. I would leave enough room to put the clamp on there
without having to adjust the handle.

Lee Michaels wrote:


"Bill" wrote

I changed the way the top box is affixed, adjusting it's size
slightly. If anyone besides me is
considering this project or just wants to see, the new pic is the 2nd
one.

http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

8-degrees F. this morning. Still chilly in IN!

I was a little confused by the various animals on the box on the top
of this clamp stand. Then I figured it out. It is a litter box! You
must be a real animal lover. ;-)

Actually, I looked in the SU Warehouse for "Acanthus foilage" first,
but they didn't have that. They didn't have any Cardinal's either. You
get what you get!
David Letterman is from Indiana too, but people think he's funny.

The only comment I would make about the present design is that it
apparently depends on you cranking down the handles on top to get the
clamp under the top. This takes a fair amount of time and if you have
to do much clamping, it will be frustrating. I would leave enough
room to put the clamp on there without having to adjust the handle.

That's a good suggestion, Lee. My next step has to be to take a look at
my clamps, and see whether I need to make any adjustments. I didn't
think of the issue you mentioned, and you are absolutely right!

Thanks!
Bill

Bill wrote:


I changed the way the top box is affixed, adjusting it's size
slightly. If anyone besides me is
considering this project or just wants to see, the new pic is the 2nd
one.
http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/


Hey Bill - how do you save those models so that you can put them on your web
page?

--

-Mike-