Turns out Woodpecker has two 24"rules,
one mainly for measuring ($30) and one mainly for
setting up tools($40)-it's called SERX. Both are Aluminum.

The first rule looks dandy, with it's engraved markings and angled edge.
I would have expected it to be straight enough to use
for both measuring AND setting up tools.

Can anyone shed anymorelight on this (Is it a racket? LOL ).
Woodworkingshows is coming to town soon! : )

Bill

On 1/16/2013 2:04 PM, Bill wrote:
Turns out Woodpecker has two 24"rules,
one mainly for measuring ($30) and one mainly for
setting up tools($40)-it's called SERX. Both are Aluminum.

The first rule looks dandy, with it's engraved markings and angled edge.
I would have expected it to be straight enough to use
for both measuring AND setting up tools.

Can anyone shed anymorelight on this (Is it a racket? LOL ).
Woodworkingshows is coming to town soon! : )

Bill


For actual woodworking i have the 48" and 34" version of the Story Stick
pro. I use these multiple time on every project. Great for
transferring an exact measurement, what ever it might be, from the
actual project to the saw for perfect length cuts. I use it to lay out
reference lines on both ends of the track for my track saw. The story
stick pro reflects setting measurements on both sides of the measure.
Useable on both sides at the same time.

Leon wrote:
On 1/16/2013 2:04 PM, Bill wrote:
Turns out Woodpecker has two 24"rules,
one mainly for measuring ($30) and one mainly for
setting up tools($40)-it's called SERX. Both are Aluminum.

The first rule looks dandy, with it's engraved markings and angled edge.
I would have expected it to be straight enough to use
for both measuring AND setting up tools.

Can anyone shed anymorelight on this (Is it a racket? LOL ).
Woodworkingshows is coming to town soon! : )

Bill


For actual woodworking i have the 48" and 34" version of the Story
Stick pro. I use these multiple time on every project. Great for
transferring an exact measurement, what ever it might be, from the
actual project to the saw for perfect length cuts. I use it to lay
out reference lines on both ends of the track for my track saw.
That's a clever application for it. I think you meant to type 48" and
24". I am planning to look at the 24" one (as you brought it to my
attention a few weeks ago).

Bill


The story stick pro reflects setting measurements on both sides of the
measure. Useable on both sides at the same time.

On 1/16/2013 5:45 PM, Bill wrote:
Leon wrote:
On 1/16/2013 2:04 PM, Bill wrote:
Turns out Woodpecker has two 24"rules,
one mainly for measuring ($30) and one mainly for
setting up tools($40)-it's called SERX. Both are Aluminum.

The first rule looks dandy, with it's engraved markings and angled edge.
I would have expected it to be straight enough to use
for both measuring AND setting up tools.

Can anyone shed anymorelight on this (Is it a racket? LOL ).
Woodworkingshows is coming to town soon! : )

Bill


For actual woodworking i have the 48" and 34" version of the Story
Stick pro. I use these multiple time on every project. Great for
transferring an exact measurement, what ever it might be, from the
actual project to the saw for perfect length cuts. I use it to lay
out reference lines on both ends of the track for my track saw.
That's a clever application for it. I think you meant to type 48" and
24". I am planning to look at the 24" one (as you brought it to my
attention a few weeks ago).

Yeah 24". FWIW I use the longer one probably 5 times more than the
shorter one.







Bill


The story stick pro reflects setting measurements on both sides of the
measure. Useable on both sides at the same time.

On 1/16/2013 3:04 PM, Bill wrote:
Turns out Woodpecker has two 24"rules,
one mainly for measuring ($30) and one mainly for
setting up tools($40)-it's called SERX. Both are Aluminum.

The first rule looks dandy, with it's engraved markings and angled edge.
I would have expected it to be straight enough to use
for both measuring AND setting up tools.

Can anyone shed anymorelight on this (Is it a racket? LOL ).
Woodworkingshows is coming to town soon! : )

Bill

I bought a SS 24" rule from Lee Valley mainly for drawing straight lines
for bandsaw work. It is straight as far as I can tell, but LV advised
me that it was not intended for that, they suggested that I buy a
certified straight edge. I resisted.

--
G.W.Ross

Everywhere is walking distance if you
have the time. --Steven Wright

G.W.Ross wrote:
On 1/16/2013 3:04 PM, Bill wrote:
Turns out Woodpecker has two 24"rules,
one mainly for measuring ($30) and one mainly for
setting up tools($40)-it's called SERX. Both are Aluminum.

The first rule looks dandy, with it's engraved markings and angled edge.
I would have expected it to be straight enough to use
for both measuring AND setting up tools.

Can anyone shed anymorelight on this (Is it a racket? LOL ).
Woodworkingshows is coming to town soon! : )

Bill

I bought a SS 24" rule from Lee Valley mainly for drawing straight
lines for bandsaw work. It is straight as far as I can tell, but LV
advised me that it was not intended for that, they suggested that I
buy a certified straight edge. I resisted.

I saw yours online and they look plenty straight enough for drawing
pencil lines. I wonder why they call them "Cabinetmaker's Rules"?
I wanted something to help set up a jointer (among other things). A
selling point made is that the Aluminum won't dull the blades.
If you can rest a rule on a cast iron surface, and can't see light under
it, then the rule is probably flat enough, aye?

On Wed, 16 Jan 2013 18:31:31 -0500, Bill
wrote:

G.W.Ross wrote:
On 1/16/2013 3:04 PM, Bill wrote:
Turns out Woodpecker has two 24"rules,
one mainly for measuring ($30) and one mainly for
setting up tools($40)-it's called SERX. Both are Aluminum.

The first rule looks dandy, with it's engraved markings and angled edge.
I would have expected it to be straight enough to use
for both measuring AND setting up tools.

Can anyone shed anymorelight on this (Is it a racket? LOL ).
Woodworkingshows is coming to town soon! : )

Bill

I bought a SS 24" rule from Lee Valley mainly for drawing straight
lines for bandsaw work. It is straight as far as I can tell, but LV
advised me that it was not intended for that, they suggested that I
buy a certified straight edge. I resisted.

I saw yours online and they look plenty straight enough for drawing
pencil lines. I wonder why they call them "Cabinetmaker's Rules"?
I wanted something to help set up a jointer (among other things). A
selling point made is that the Aluminum won't dull the blades.
If you can rest a rule on a cast iron surface, and can't see light under
it, then the rule is probably flat enough, aye?

Or use one of the magnetic blade holders to keep the blade in the
correct alignment as you tighten the mounts.

In article ,
G.W.Ross wrote:
...snipped... i

I bought a SS 24" rule from Lee Valley mainly for drawing straight lines
for bandsaw work. It is straight as far as I can tell, but LV advised
me that it was not intended for that, they suggested that I buy a
certified straight edge. I resisted.


I think you made the right choice for your intended use. Even of the
rule is off a few thousandths compared to the "certified" straightedge over
it's 24 inch length, how much difference would it make to a band saw cut?

--
The best argument against democracy is a five-minute conversation
with the average voter. (Winston Churchill)

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org

Let me rephrase my question:

My only "fine measuring stick" is a 12" Starrett combination square.

Do I need more tools for setting up an 8" jointer or table saw properly?

Bill

On 1/17/2013 9:24 AM, Bill wrote:

Let me rephrase my question:

My only "fine measuring stick" is a 12" Starrett combination square.

Do I need more tools for setting up an 8" jointer or table saw properly?

Bill



Depending on the quality of your equipment you need to be able to
measure in the thousands of an inch. For example to measure your
TS blade being parallel to the miter slot and the fence parallel to the
blade you are shooting for as close to perfectly parallel as you can
get. Dial indicators which measure much smaller increments helps you
get there especially when setting the miter slot to the blade.
Typically rip fences are very easy to adjust in small increments and
results are easily seen by your eye so in this case I never use a
measuring devise to set the fence parallel to the blade.

On 1/17/2013 10:38 AM, Leon wrote:
On 1/17/2013 9:24 AM, Bill wrote:

Let me rephrase my question:

My only "fine measuring stick" is a 12" Starrett combination square.

Do I need more tools for setting up an 8" jointer or table saw properly?

Bill



Depending on the quality of your equipment you need to be able to
measure in the thousands of an inch. For example to measure your
TS blade being parallel to the miter slot and the fence parallel to the
blade you are shooting for as close to perfectly parallel as you can
get. Dial indicators which measure much smaller increments helps you
get there especially when setting the miter slot to the blade. Typically
rip fences are very easy to adjust in small increments and results are
easily seen by your eye so in this case I never use a measuring devise
to set the fence parallel to the blade.


Thanks, I already got have a dial indicator too. Obviously, the
straight-edge is just for aligning the adjacent tables.

Ar article I read suggested "at least 24 straight-edge" for the jointer.

Bill

On Thu, 17 Jan 2013 09:38:42 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 1/17/2013 9:24 AM, Bill wrote:

Let me rephrase my question:

My only "fine measuring stick" is a 12" Starrett combination square.

Do I need more tools for setting up an 8" jointer or table saw properly?

Bill



Depending on the quality of your equipment you need to be able to
measure in the thousands of an inch. For example to measure your
TS blade being parallel to the miter slot and the fence parallel to the
blade you are shooting for as close to perfectly parallel as you can
get. Dial indicators which measure much smaller increments helps you
get there especially when setting the miter slot to the blade.
Typically rip fences are very easy to adjust in small increments and
results are easily seen by your eye so in this case I never use a
measuring devise to set the fence parallel to the blade.

I assume you mean that you set the fence parallel to the slot (after
the slot is made parallel to the blade).

On 1/17/2013 10:24 AM, Bill wrote:

Let me rephrase my question:

My only "fine measuring stick" is a 12" Starrett combination square.

Do I need more tools for setting up an 8" jointer or table saw properly?

Bill



These look dandy:

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...at=1,240,45313

38" appropriate for a jointer having a 72" bed and a TS?

Also available in steel at twice the price.

Bill

On 1/17/13 9:43 AM, Bill wrote:

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...at=1,240,45313

38" appropriate for a jointer having a 72" bed and a TS?

Also available in steel at twice the price.

Bill

I got the 38 when it was on sale and I've been very pleased with it.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 1/17/13 9:24 AM, Bill wrote:

Let me rephrase my question:

My only "fine measuring stick" is a 12" Starrett combination square.

Do I need more tools for setting up an 8" jointer or table saw properly?

Bill


Not it it cuts true. :-)
Just be sure the combo square is square. If it's a Starrett, it
probably is. It's tough to find generics that are actually square.
"get what you pay for" and all.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 1/17/2013 9:24 AM, Bill wrote:

Let me rephrase my question:

My only "fine measuring stick" is a 12" Starrett combination square.

Do I need more tools for setting up an 8" jointer or table saw properly?

Depends upon the tool being setup, and to a point, the precision to
which it is capable of being setup.

IOW, a high quality cabinet saw or jointer may allow more precision than
most of the cheaper contractor saws or jointers ...

... although there is really only one way to adjust the miter slot to
be parallel to the fence on most table saws, and that is by loosening
the top, and banging it into alignment with all the precision of a
hammer/mallet ...

As contrary as Ed Bennett can be, he makes one of the finest tools for
woodshop tool setup that can probably be found on the planet.

The T-S Aligner Jr:

http://www.ts-aligner.com/tsalignerjr.htm

Not something that you will use all that often, but it is indeed the
"Premier" tool for the job, and well worth owning if you're really
serious/AR about precision setup.

And yes, I do own one, and value it to the extent of having made a
custom case for it:

http://e-woodshop.net/images/TsAlignerCase.JPG

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

Swingman wrote:
On 1/17/2013 9:24 AM, Bill wrote:

Let me rephrase my question:

My only "fine measuring stick" is a 12" Starrett combination square.

Do I need more tools for setting up an 8" jointer or table saw properly?

Depends upon the tool being setup, and to a point, the precision to
which it is capable of being setup.

IOW, a high quality cabinet saw or jointer may allow more precision
than most of the cheaper contractor saws or jointers ...


I don't know how highly you regard Grizzly. But's that's the direction
I'm heading (Models G0690 TS, and G0490 jointer). I even made a special
trip to their showroom last summer while I was driving through MO--and
got the T-shirt.

On 1/17/2013 10:18 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 1/17/2013 9:24 AM, Bill wrote:

Let me rephrase my question:

My only "fine measuring stick" is a 12" Starrett combination square.

Do I need more tools for setting up an 8" jointer or table saw properly?

Depends upon the tool being setup, and to a point, the precision to
which it is capable of being setup.

IOW, a high quality cabinet saw or jointer may allow more precision than
most of the cheaper contractor saws or jointers ...

... although there is really only one way to adjust the miter slot to
be parallel to the fence on most table saws, and that is by loosening
the top, and banging it into alignment with all the precision of a
hammer/mallet ...


Agreed on most cabinet saws.
The top and trunnion on a cabinet saw are both attached to the cabinet.

But you bang the trunnion on the typical contractors saw. The
trunnion is attached to the top and the top is attached to the cabinet.

On Thu, 17 Jan 2013 10:18:22 -0600, Swingman wrote:
The T-S Aligner Jr:
http://www.ts-aligner.com/tsalignerjr.htm

I was wondering. Does the Aligner fasten down in that t-slot before
you engage the measuring mechanism?

I'm thinking that because it can slide in the t-slot, that there would
be some slop in the measuring caused by it, as small as that slop
might be?

On Wed, 16 Jan 2013 15:04:38 -0500, Bill
wrote:

Turns out Woodpecker has two 24"rules,
one mainly for measuring ($30) and one mainly for
setting up tools($40)-it's called SERX. Both are Aluminum.

The first rule looks dandy, with it's engraved markings and angled edge.
I would have expected it to be straight enough to use
for both measuring AND setting up tools.

Can anyone shed anymorelight on this (Is it a racket? LOL ).
Woodworkingshows is coming to town soon! : )

Bill

I've bought a few of their products, always high quality. Occasionally
they have great deals on clamps and drawer slides.

Mike M