Turns out Woodpecker has two 24"rules,
one mainly for measuring ($30) and one mainly for
setting up tools($40)-it's called SERX. Both are Aluminum.

The first rule looks dandy, with it's engraved markings and angled edge.
I would have expected it to be straight enough to use
for both measuring AND setting up tools.

Can anyone shed anymorelight on this (Is it a racket? LOL ).
Woodworkingshows is coming to town soon! : )

Bill

On 1/16/2013 2:04 PM, Bill wrote:
Turns out Woodpecker has two 24"rules,
one mainly for measuring ($30) and one mainly for
setting up tools($40)-it's called SERX. Both are Aluminum.

The first rule looks dandy, with it's engraved markings and angled edge.
I would have expected it to be straight enough to use
for both measuring AND setting up tools.

Can anyone shed anymorelight on this (Is it a racket? LOL ).
Woodworkingshows is coming to town soon! : )

Bill


For actual woodworking i have the 48" and 34" version of the Story Stick
pro. I use these multiple time on every project. Great for
transferring an exact measurement, what ever it might be, from the
actual project to the saw for perfect length cuts. I use it to lay out
reference lines on both ends of the track for my track saw. The story
stick pro reflects setting measurements on both sides of the measure.
Useable on both sides at the same time.

On 1/16/2013 3:04 PM, Bill wrote:
Turns out Woodpecker has two 24"rules,
one mainly for measuring ($30) and one mainly for
setting up tools($40)-it's called SERX. Both are Aluminum.

The first rule looks dandy, with it's engraved markings and angled edge.
I would have expected it to be straight enough to use
for both measuring AND setting up tools.

Can anyone shed anymorelight on this (Is it a racket? LOL ).
Woodworkingshows is coming to town soon! : )

Bill

I bought a SS 24" rule from Lee Valley mainly for drawing straight lines
for bandsaw work. It is straight as far as I can tell, but LV advised
me that it was not intended for that, they suggested that I buy a
certified straight edge. I resisted.

--
G.W.Ross

Everywhere is walking distance if you
have the time. --Steven Wright

G.W.Ross wrote:
On 1/16/2013 3:04 PM, Bill wrote:
Turns out Woodpecker has two 24"rules,
one mainly for measuring ($30) and one mainly for
setting up tools($40)-it's called SERX. Both are Aluminum.

The first rule looks dandy, with it's engraved markings and angled edge.
I would have expected it to be straight enough to use
for both measuring AND setting up tools.

Can anyone shed anymorelight on this (Is it a racket? LOL ).
Woodworkingshows is coming to town soon! : )

Bill

I bought a SS 24" rule from Lee Valley mainly for drawing straight
lines for bandsaw work. It is straight as far as I can tell, but LV
advised me that it was not intended for that, they suggested that I
buy a certified straight edge. I resisted.

I saw yours online and they look plenty straight enough for drawing
pencil lines. I wonder why they call them "Cabinetmaker's Rules"?
I wanted something to help set up a jointer (among other things). A
selling point made is that the Aluminum won't dull the blades.
If you can rest a rule on a cast iron surface, and can't see light under
it, then the rule is probably flat enough, aye?

Leon wrote:
On 1/16/2013 2:04 PM, Bill wrote:
Turns out Woodpecker has two 24"rules,
one mainly for measuring ($30) and one mainly for
setting up tools($40)-it's called SERX. Both are Aluminum.

The first rule looks dandy, with it's engraved markings and angled edge.
I would have expected it to be straight enough to use
for both measuring AND setting up tools.

Can anyone shed anymorelight on this (Is it a racket? LOL ).
Woodworkingshows is coming to town soon! : )

Bill


For actual woodworking i have the 48" and 34" version of the Story
Stick pro. I use these multiple time on every project. Great for
transferring an exact measurement, what ever it might be, from the
actual project to the saw for perfect length cuts. I use it to lay
out reference lines on both ends of the track for my track saw.
That's a clever application for it. I think you meant to type 48" and
24". I am planning to look at the 24" one (as you brought it to my
attention a few weeks ago).

Bill


The story stick pro reflects setting measurements on both sides of the
measure. Useable on both sides at the same time.

On 1/16/2013 5:45 PM, Bill wrote:
Leon wrote:
On 1/16/2013 2:04 PM, Bill wrote:
Turns out Woodpecker has two 24"rules,
one mainly for measuring ($30) and one mainly for
setting up tools($40)-it's called SERX. Both are Aluminum.

The first rule looks dandy, with it's engraved markings and angled edge.
I would have expected it to be straight enough to use
for both measuring AND setting up tools.

Can anyone shed anymorelight on this (Is it a racket? LOL ).
Woodworkingshows is coming to town soon! : )

Bill


For actual woodworking i have the 48" and 34" version of the Story
Stick pro. I use these multiple time on every project. Great for
transferring an exact measurement, what ever it might be, from the
actual project to the saw for perfect length cuts. I use it to lay
out reference lines on both ends of the track for my track saw.
That's a clever application for it. I think you meant to type 48" and
24". I am planning to look at the 24" one (as you brought it to my
attention a few weeks ago).

Yeah 24". FWIW I use the longer one probably 5 times more than the
shorter one.







Bill


The story stick pro reflects setting measurements on both sides of the
measure. Useable on both sides at the same time.

On Wed, 16 Jan 2013 15:04:38 -0500, Bill
wrote:

Turns out Woodpecker has two 24"rules,
one mainly for measuring ($30) and one mainly for
setting up tools($40)-it's called SERX. Both are Aluminum.

The first rule looks dandy, with it's engraved markings and angled edge.
I would have expected it to be straight enough to use
for both measuring AND setting up tools.

Can anyone shed anymorelight on this (Is it a racket? LOL ).
Woodworkingshows is coming to town soon! : )

Bill

I've bought a few of their products, always high quality. Occasionally
they have great deals on clamps and drawer slides.

Mike M

In article ,
G.W.Ross wrote:
...snipped... i

I bought a SS 24" rule from Lee Valley mainly for drawing straight lines
for bandsaw work. It is straight as far as I can tell, but LV advised
me that it was not intended for that, they suggested that I buy a
certified straight edge. I resisted.


I think you made the right choice for your intended use. Even of the
rule is off a few thousandths compared to the "certified" straightedge over
it's 24 inch length, how much difference would it make to a band saw cut?

--
The best argument against democracy is a five-minute conversation
with the average voter. (Winston Churchill)

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org

Let me rephrase my question:

My only "fine measuring stick" is a 12" Starrett combination square.

Do I need more tools for setting up an 8" jointer or table saw properly?

Bill

On 1/17/2013 9:24 AM, Bill wrote:

Let me rephrase my question:

My only "fine measuring stick" is a 12" Starrett combination square.

Do I need more tools for setting up an 8" jointer or table saw properly?

Bill



Depending on the quality of your equipment you need to be able to
measure in the thousands of an inch. For example to measure your
TS blade being parallel to the miter slot and the fence parallel to the
blade you are shooting for as close to perfectly parallel as you can
get. Dial indicators which measure much smaller increments helps you
get there especially when setting the miter slot to the blade.
Typically rip fences are very easy to adjust in small increments and
results are easily seen by your eye so in this case I never use a
measuring devise to set the fence parallel to the blade.

On 1/17/2013 10:24 AM, Bill wrote:

Let me rephrase my question:

My only "fine measuring stick" is a 12" Starrett combination square.

Do I need more tools for setting up an 8" jointer or table saw properly?

Bill



These look dandy:

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...at=1,240,45313

38" appropriate for a jointer having a 72" bed and a TS?

Also available in steel at twice the price.

Bill

On 1/17/2013 10:38 AM, Leon wrote:
On 1/17/2013 9:24 AM, Bill wrote:

Let me rephrase my question:

My only "fine measuring stick" is a 12" Starrett combination square.

Do I need more tools for setting up an 8" jointer or table saw properly?

Bill



Depending on the quality of your equipment you need to be able to
measure in the thousands of an inch. For example to measure your
TS blade being parallel to the miter slot and the fence parallel to the
blade you are shooting for as close to perfectly parallel as you can
get. Dial indicators which measure much smaller increments helps you
get there especially when setting the miter slot to the blade. Typically
rip fences are very easy to adjust in small increments and results are
easily seen by your eye so in this case I never use a measuring devise
to set the fence parallel to the blade.


Thanks, I already got have a dial indicator too. Obviously, the
straight-edge is just for aligning the adjacent tables.

Ar article I read suggested "at least 24 straight-edge" for the jointer.

Bill

On 1/17/13 9:24 AM, Bill wrote:

Let me rephrase my question:

My only "fine measuring stick" is a 12" Starrett combination square.

Do I need more tools for setting up an 8" jointer or table saw properly?

Bill


Not it it cuts true. :-)
Just be sure the combo square is square. If it's a Starrett, it
probably is. It's tough to find generics that are actually square.
"get what you pay for" and all.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 1/17/13 9:43 AM, Bill wrote:

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...at=1,240,45313

38" appropriate for a jointer having a 72" bed and a TS?

Also available in steel at twice the price.

Bill

I got the 38 when it was on sale and I've been very pleased with it.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 1/17/2013 9:24 AM, Bill wrote:

Let me rephrase my question:

My only "fine measuring stick" is a 12" Starrett combination square.

Do I need more tools for setting up an 8" jointer or table saw properly?

Depends upon the tool being setup, and to a point, the precision to
which it is capable of being setup.

IOW, a high quality cabinet saw or jointer may allow more precision than
most of the cheaper contractor saws or jointers ...

... although there is really only one way to adjust the miter slot to
be parallel to the fence on most table saws, and that is by loosening
the top, and banging it into alignment with all the precision of a
hammer/mallet ...

As contrary as Ed Bennett can be, he makes one of the finest tools for
woodshop tool setup that can probably be found on the planet.

The T-S Aligner Jr:

http://www.ts-aligner.com/tsalignerjr.htm

Not something that you will use all that often, but it is indeed the
"Premier" tool for the job, and well worth owning if you're really
serious/AR about precision setup.

And yes, I do own one, and value it to the extent of having made a
custom case for it:

http://e-woodshop.net/images/TsAlignerCase.JPG

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On Wed, 16 Jan 2013 18:31:31 -0500, Bill
wrote:

G.W.Ross wrote:
On 1/16/2013 3:04 PM, Bill wrote:
Turns out Woodpecker has two 24"rules,
one mainly for measuring ($30) and one mainly for
setting up tools($40)-it's called SERX. Both are Aluminum.

The first rule looks dandy, with it's engraved markings and angled edge.
I would have expected it to be straight enough to use
for both measuring AND setting up tools.

Can anyone shed anymorelight on this (Is it a racket? LOL ).
Woodworkingshows is coming to town soon! : )

Bill

I bought a SS 24" rule from Lee Valley mainly for drawing straight
lines for bandsaw work. It is straight as far as I can tell, but LV
advised me that it was not intended for that, they suggested that I
buy a certified straight edge. I resisted.

I saw yours online and they look plenty straight enough for drawing
pencil lines. I wonder why they call them "Cabinetmaker's Rules"?
I wanted something to help set up a jointer (among other things). A
selling point made is that the Aluminum won't dull the blades.
If you can rest a rule on a cast iron surface, and can't see light under
it, then the rule is probably flat enough, aye?

Or use one of the magnetic blade holders to keep the blade in the
correct alignment as you tighten the mounts.

On Thu, 17 Jan 2013 09:38:42 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 1/17/2013 9:24 AM, Bill wrote:

Let me rephrase my question:

My only "fine measuring stick" is a 12" Starrett combination square.

Do I need more tools for setting up an 8" jointer or table saw properly?

Bill



Depending on the quality of your equipment you need to be able to
measure in the thousands of an inch. For example to measure your
TS blade being parallel to the miter slot and the fence parallel to the
blade you are shooting for as close to perfectly parallel as you can
get. Dial indicators which measure much smaller increments helps you
get there especially when setting the miter slot to the blade.
Typically rip fences are very easy to adjust in small increments and
results are easily seen by your eye so in this case I never use a
measuring devise to set the fence parallel to the blade.

I assume you mean that you set the fence parallel to the slot (after
the slot is made parallel to the blade).

On 1/17/2013 12:27 PM, wrote:
I assume you mean that you set the fence parallel to the slot (after
the slot is made parallel to the blade).

On 1/17/2013 10:18 AM, Swingman wrote:

... although there is really only one way to adjust the miter slot to
be parallel to the fence on most table saws, and that is by loosening
the top, and banging it into alignment with all the precision of a
hammer/mallet ...

Made me go back and read mine ... that should be "miter slot to be
parallel to the blade", fercrisskaes ...

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

Swingman wrote:
On 1/17/2013 9:24 AM, Bill wrote:

Let me rephrase my question:

My only "fine measuring stick" is a 12" Starrett combination square.

Do I need more tools for setting up an 8" jointer or table saw properly?

Depends upon the tool being setup, and to a point, the precision to
which it is capable of being setup.

IOW, a high quality cabinet saw or jointer may allow more precision
than most of the cheaper contractor saws or jointers ...


I don't know how highly you regard Grizzly. But's that's the direction
I'm heading (Models G0690 TS, and G0490 jointer). I even made a special
trip to their showroom last summer while I was driving through MO--and
got the T-shirt.

On 1/17/2013 12:27 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 17 Jan 2013 09:38:42 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 1/17/2013 9:24 AM, Bill wrote:

Let me rephrase my question:

My only "fine measuring stick" is a 12" Starrett combination square.

Do I need more tools for setting up an 8" jointer or table saw properly?

Bill



Depending on the quality of your equipment you need to be able to
measure in the thousands of an inch. For example to measure your
TS blade being parallel to the miter slot and the fence parallel to the
blade you are shooting for as close to perfectly parallel as you can
get. Dial indicators which measure much smaller increments helps you
get there especially when setting the miter slot to the blade.
Typically rip fences are very easy to adjust in small increments and
results are easily seen by your eye so in this case I never use a
measuring devise to set the fence parallel to the blade.

I assume you mean that you set the fence parallel to the slot (after
the slot is made parallel to the blade).



Yes, but you can adjust the fence parallel to the blade too but only
after adjusting the blade to the slot.

On 1/17/2013 1:39 PM, Bill wrote:

I don't know how highly you regard Grizzly. But's that's the direction
I'm heading (Models G0690 TS, and G0490 jointer). I even made a special
trip to their showroom last summer while I was driving through MO--and
got the T-shirt.

Nice saw. If I had the budget and had to replace my Unisaw with
something similar ... a made in Canada, General 650 would be at the top
of my list.

Had the pleasure of using one a few years back and was more impressed
with it than any other TS I've ever used, including the older
Powermatics and Grizzly.

And, in this day and age, and with the slightest chance of someone else
using it your shop and you needing to protect your assets from
liability, a Sawstop.

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 1/17/2013 10:18 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 1/17/2013 9:24 AM, Bill wrote:

Let me rephrase my question:

My only "fine measuring stick" is a 12" Starrett combination square.

Do I need more tools for setting up an 8" jointer or table saw properly?

Depends upon the tool being setup, and to a point, the precision to
which it is capable of being setup.

IOW, a high quality cabinet saw or jointer may allow more precision than
most of the cheaper contractor saws or jointers ...

... although there is really only one way to adjust the miter slot to
be parallel to the fence on most table saws, and that is by loosening
the top, and banging it into alignment with all the precision of a
hammer/mallet ...


Agreed on most cabinet saws.
The top and trunnion on a cabinet saw are both attached to the cabinet.

But you bang the trunnion on the typical contractors saw. The
trunnion is attached to the top and the top is attached to the cabinet.

On 1/17/2013 1:39 PM, Bill wrote:
Swingman wrote:
On 1/17/2013 9:24 AM, Bill wrote:

Let me rephrase my question:

My only "fine measuring stick" is a 12" Starrett combination square.

Do I need more tools for setting up an 8" jointer or table saw properly?

Depends upon the tool being setup, and to a point, the precision to
which it is capable of being setup.

IOW, a high quality cabinet saw or jointer may allow more precision
than most of the cheaper contractor saws or jointers ...


I don't know how highly you regard Grizzly. But's that's the direction
I'm heading (Models G0690 TS, and G0490 jointer). I even made a special
trip to their showroom last summer while I was driving through MO--and
got the T-shirt.



FWIW I don't know of any one that does not make a respectable "true"
cabinet saw. The Griz you mentioned above should be fine.


Contractors saws are a totally different matter and you need to do your
home work if getting one.

On 1/17/2013 4:31 PM, Leon wrote:

IOW, a high quality cabinet saw or jointer may allow more precision than
most of the cheaper contractor saws or jointers ...

... although there is really only one way to adjust the miter slot to
be parallel to the fence on most table saws, and that is by loosening
the top, and banging it into alignment with all the precision of a
hammer/mallet ...


Agreed on most cabinet saws.
The top and trunnion on a cabinet saw are both attached to the cabinet.

But you bang the trunnion on the typical contractors saw. The
trunnion is attached to the top and the top is attached to the cabinet.

Now, if you really want to get technical, there is nothing to stop you
from loosening the top of a cabinet saw AND wait for it banging on the
_cabinet_ instead. LOL!

The point being of course, on either ... with all the precision you get
from "banging" on something.

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On Thu, 17 Jan 2013 10:18:22 -0600, Swingman wrote:
The T-S Aligner Jr:
http://www.ts-aligner.com/tsalignerjr.htm

I was wondering. Does the Aligner fasten down in that t-slot before
you engage the measuring mechanism?

I'm thinking that because it can slide in the t-slot, that there would
be some slop in the measuring caused by it, as small as that slop
might be?

Dave wrote:
On Thu, 17 Jan 2013 10:18:22 -0600, Swingman wrote:
The T-S Aligner Jr:
http://www.ts-aligner.com/tsalignerjr.htm

I was wondering. Does the Aligner fasten down in that t-slot before
you engage the measuring mechanism?

I'm thinking that because it can slide in the t-slot, that there would
be some slop in the measuring caused by it, as small as that slop
might be?

None at all, because it doesn't slide, it rolls. Simple engineering
principle ... A precision bearing, or wheel, makes continuous and intimate
contact with the surface it rolls/rides against.

Three precision roller bearings form a triangle ... two fixed, and spaced
apart bearings roll against the same side wall of the machined miter slot;
a third, adjustable bearing, centered between the two fixed bearings, rolls
against the opposite wall of the miter slot.

Simply place the unit in the miter slot and adjust the middle bearing so
that all three bearings contact, and are touching/rolling against both
miter slot walls.

Result, no "slop" at all.

Ed Bennett is one helluva engineer, and that fact shows in every aspect of
his product.

--
www.ewoodshop.com (Mobile)

On 1/17/2013 5:03 PM, Swingman wrote:
On 1/17/2013 4:31 PM, Leon wrote:

IOW, a high quality cabinet saw or jointer may allow more precision than
most of the cheaper contractor saws or jointers ...

... although there is really only one way to adjust the miter slot to
be parallel to the fence on most table saws, and that is by loosening
the top, and banging it into alignment with all the precision of a
hammer/mallet ...


Agreed on most cabinet saws.
The top and trunnion on a cabinet saw are both attached to the cabinet.

But you bang the trunnion on the typical contractors saw. The
trunnion is attached to the top and the top is attached to the cabinet.

Now, if you really want to get technical, there is nothing to stop you
from loosening the top of a cabinet saw AND wait for it banging on the
_cabinet_ instead. LOL!

The point being of course, on either ... with all the precision you get
from "banging" on something.



;~) and I was not trying to get into a ****ing contest.

Bill wrote:


Let me rephrase my question:

My only "fine measuring stick" is a 12" Starrett combination square.

Do I need more tools for setting up an 8" jointer or table saw
properly?
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
I would not try to set cutter knives parallel to feed tables on a
jointer,
unless I had the magnetic jig sold for the purpose.

Life is just to short to try to do otherwise.

Lew

Lew Hodgett wrote:
Bill wrote:

Let me rephrase my question:

My only "fine measuring stick" is a 12" Starrett combination square.

Do I need more tools for setting up an 8" jointer or table saw
properly?
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
I would not try to set cutter knives parallel to feed tables on a
jointer,
unless I had the magnetic jig sold for the purpose.

Life is just to short to try to do otherwise.

Lew


Thank you. I will learn about the jig.

One of the features of Grizzly's "parallelogram" jointer, supposedly a
step-up
than the standard/traditional design, is that the infeed and outfeed tables
are supposed to say parallel, even after adjustments, after the jointer
is set up the first time.
The infeed and outfeed tables move together. The Lee Valley 38-inch
straight-edge ($40) will probably
come in handy for more things than I can anticipate.

Bill

On 1/18/2013 2:40 PM, Bill wrote:
Lew Hodgett wrote:
Bill wrote:

Let me rephrase my question:

My only "fine measuring stick" is a 12" Starrett combination square.

Do I need more tools for setting up an 8" jointer or table saw
properly?
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
I would not try to set cutter knives parallel to feed tables on a
jointer,
unless I had the magnetic jig sold for the purpose.

Life is just to short to try to do otherwise.

Lew


Thank you. I will learn about the jig.

One of the features of Grizzly's "parallelogram" jointer, supposedly a
step-up
than the standard/traditional design, is that the infeed and outfeed tables
are supposed to say parallel, even after adjustments, after the jointer
is set up the first time.
The infeed and outfeed tables move together. The Lee Valley 38-inch
straight-edge ($40) will probably
come in handy for more things than I can anticipate.

Bill


I dont recall which one you looking at but you should strongly consider
the spiral cutter head.
Thinking a little further, look at the Griz jointers with the carbide
cutters. These stay sharp a long time can have their cutting surfaces
renewed by rotating them up to 4 times and require no measuring what so
ever then renewing or replacing the cutting tips.

On 1/18/2013 1:37 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
Bill wrote:


Let me rephrase my question:

My only "fine measuring stick" is a 12" Starrett combination square.

Do I need more tools for setting up an 8" jointer or table saw
properly?
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
I would not try to set cutter knives parallel to feed tables on a
jointer, unless I had the magnetic jig sold for the purpose.
....

_Presuming_ the jointer has the indexing hole/jig of the
Delta/Powermatic, and ideally, the spring at the bottom of the blade
against which it will sit to hold it up while adjusting, then all that
is needed is a straight edge, preferably a hardwood block that you can
use to check against.

Raise the infeed table to _precisely_ even w/ the outfeed and since the
knife should be at TDC owing to the indexing, all you need is to hold
the knife down at the level w/ the block and tighten. Do it uniformly
across the beds as pushing one end down causes the other to raise, of
course.

You can easily make a magnetic setting tool--Radio Shack has a set of
roughly 3/4"x 1" rare earth magnets--forget the number in the set but
get six. Again start w/ a piece of hardwood (hard maple/beech/etc.) and
make two pieces w/ a straight, smooth surface of roughly 8-10" length
and couple inches wide or so for convenience. Place the magnets on the
infeed or outfeed table, one at each end of your pieces and one towards
one end removed enough from the end that it will cover the knife
location when the two ends are in place on the infeed/outfeed table w/o
hitting either. Use a dab of RTV to glue them in place and when
thoroughly dry--voila! a jig as good as the commercial at a fraction of
the cost.

Since the table is the reference surface, the magnets are as
straight/flat as the table surface and any small imperfection in your
mounting blocks is taken up by the RTV.

--

Leon wrote:
On 1/18/2013 2:40 PM, Bill wrote:
Lew Hodgett wrote:
Bill wrote:

Let me rephrase my question:

My only "fine measuring stick" is a 12" Starrett combination square.

Do I need more tools for setting up an 8" jointer or table saw
properly?
-------------------------------------------------------------------------

I would not try to set cutter knives parallel to feed tables on a
jointer,
unless I had the magnetic jig sold for the purpose.

Life is just to short to try to do otherwise.

Lew


Thank you. I will learn about the jig.

One of the features of Grizzly's "parallelogram" jointer, supposedly a
step-up
than the standard/traditional design, is that the infeed and outfeed
tables
are supposed to say parallel, even after adjustments, after the jointer
is set up the first time.
The infeed and outfeed tables move together. The Lee Valley 38-inch
straight-edge ($40) will probably
come in handy for more things than I can anticipate.

Bill


I dont recall which one you looking at but you should strongly
consider the spiral cutter head.
Thinking a little further, look at the Griz jointers with the carbide
cutters. These stay sharp a long time can have their cutting surfaces
renewed by rotating them up to 4 times and require no measuring what
so ever then renewing or replacing the cutting tips.
Here they a the G0490 and G0490X. The later is $325 more.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/category/450000

All this to face *one side* of a piece of wood. ; )
I hope someone likes my work enough to keep me building!

Bill

Bill wrote in
:

*snip*

Also ordered their "Chemical
Splash Goggles", a polycarbonate, that are able to go over regular
glasses to use as safety glasses.
They are supposed to be "fog free" and I am hopeful they will work out.


*snip*

Let me know how that works out. I've tried to get goggles or safety
glasses that work properly with my glasses, and they all fog up or have
some other problem. (One set of OTG safety glasses had terrible
reflections.)

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in news:50fb607d$0$41372$c3e8da3
:

Bill wrote in
:

*snip*

Also ordered their "Chemical
Splash Goggles", a polycarbonate, that are able to go over regular
glasses to use as safety glasses.
They are supposed to be "fog free" and I am hopeful they will work out.


*snip*

Let me know how that works out. I've tried to get goggles or safety
glasses that work properly with my glasses, and they all fog up or have
some other problem. (One set of OTG safety glasses had terrible
reflections.)

Use a face shield. The only times I've ever had fogging problems with a face shield, I've
been using it outdoors in very cold weather (e.g. while using a chain saw to cut up a fallen
tree in January).

There are multiple reasons for using a face shield instead of goggles, IMHO:
1. more comfortable
2. doesn't fog
3. easier to put on
4. because of 1 thru 3 above, you're more likely to use it
5. much better field of vision
6. there are other things on your face besides your eyes that are worth protecting.

"Doug Miller" wrote:

Use a face shield. The only times I've ever had fogging problems
with a face shield, I've
been using it outdoors in very cold weather (e.g. while using a
chain saw to cut up a fallen
tree in January).

There are multiple reasons for using a face shield instead of
goggles, IMHO:
1. more comfortable
2. doesn't fog
3. easier to put on
4. because of 1 thru 3 above, you're more likely to use it
5. much better field of vision
6. there are other things on your face besides your eyes that are
worth protecting.
------------------------------------------------------
Buy the right unit and replacement shields are low cost and simple to
replace.

Check WW Grainger or a safety supply house.

Lew

"Doug Miller" wrote

Use a face shield. The only times I've ever had fogging problems with a
face shield, I've
been using it outdoors in very cold weather (e.g. while using a chain saw
to cut up a fallen
tree in January).

There are multiple reasons for using a face shield instead of goggles,
IMHO:
1. more comfortable
2. doesn't fog
3. easier to put on
4. because of 1 thru 3 above, you're more likely to use it
5. much better field of vision
6. there are other things on your face besides your eyes that are worth
protecting.

7. Much easier to clean. I use alcohol to clean mine.
8. The face shield is easily (and economically) replaced.

I have always been a safety freak. I grew up among folks who weren't. It
was a burning ambition of mine, when young, to NOT get maimed like others I
have known.

I can't remember the specific incident. But I got hit hard in the face
shield once. It was loud and knocked me on my butt. I sat there with my
head ringing. Not only does it protect a much bigger area, but it absorbs
more shock. Think about it. I am a big guy. The impact knocked me over.
Imagine what it would have done to my face if the face shield was not in the
way.

On Sat, 19 Jan 2013 23:45:01 -0500, "Lee Michaels"
leemichaels*nadaspam* at comcast dot net wrote:




I have always been a safety freak. I grew up among folks who weren't. It
was a burning ambition of mine, when young, to NOT get maimed like others I
have known.

I can't remember the specific incident. But I got hit hard in the face
shield once. It was loud and knocked me on my butt. I sat there with my
head ringing. Not only does it protect a much bigger area, but it absorbs
more shock. Think about it. I am a big guy. The impact knocked me over.
Imagine what it would have done to my face if the face shield was not in the
way.



I've been wearing glasses since I was 8 years old. At times, they are
a PITA for one reason or another. Then I take them off at the end of
the day to clean them and often think, "sure is nice to have to wear
them".

In the course of our daily life, lots of stuff gets onto your face and
eyes. Fry up some bacon, cut the grass, cut some wood, they take a
look at what has accumulated.

Bill wrote:


I went to the Woodworkingshows event today and ended up getting
Woodpecker's 24" woodworking rule (it just "feels good" and heavy).
I went back to the booth later and got the "rule stop". They
practically had to pry the credit card out of my hand for that--but
"accessorizing" the rule felt right--and the
rule stop will help me make use of the rule that much more.
I ordering the 38" Straight-edge from Lee Valley. LV didn't bring one
to the show, but they
are taking care of shipping and sales tax (for all orders placed at
the show). Also ordered their "Chemical
Splash Goggles", a polycarbonate, that are able to go over regular
glasses to use as safety glasses.
They are supposed to be "fog free" and I am hopeful they will work
out.

Cool - a trip to the Big Boy's Toy Store! Good for you Bill. You'll
probably find those goggles to work well. I have a few different styles of
goggles and/or glasses that fit over regular eye glasses and they all work
well - no fog. I use the glasses type much more than I use the goggle type,
but I think that's mostly because I do not like the strap it on your head
aspect of goggles.You'll want a full face shield too, for some types of
work.

--

-Mike-

Lee Michaels wrote:


I can't remember the specific incident. But I got hit hard in the
face shield once. It was loud and knocked me on my butt. I sat
there with my head ringing. Not only does it protect a much bigger
area, but it absorbs more shock. Think about it. I am a big guy. The
impact knocked me over. Imagine what it would have done to my
face if the face shield was not in the way.

I use face shields for a lot of normal things that I do - things like
welding, grinding, etc. Obviously, some of these are specific to the use,
but you kinda just get used to using face shields in general when you do
this kind of thing. I prefer shields to eye protection because it is faster
and easier to throw it on than to get something properly fit around my
glasses, and I don't have the distraction of the edges of the glasses. Just
put it on and go. Plus - I can raise it and it's out of the way when I
don't need it or need a more clear look at what I'm working on. Then - just
flip it back down. It just seems easier to a lazy guy like me. The only
drawback to the shield is that you have to turn your ball cap around
backwards (you know - the one you wear so you don't look so "thin" up
there...) when you wear it.

A very good full face shield can be picked up for around $20, and
replacement shields are available for pennies. Or... buy the disposable
ones at HF for 1/3 of that price. Both work just fine. I have both and
really don't find any big difference between either one.

--

-Mike-

Doug Miller wrote:


If Rose and I had left the Woodworking Show only five minutes later,
we would have been right in front of that building when it happened.
We heard a whole lot of sirens as we were getting into the car to go
home, and saw an ambulance leaving the fairgrounds as we
headed west on 38th St.

Guess that explains it.

What an idiot.

In a major sense! There's just so much wrong with that incident that it's
not worth delving into. Darwin...

--

-Mike-