I want to take a strip of oak and rout holes in it for quarter sized rare
earth magnets to stick my knives to rather than having them in a drawer,
which I think is unsafe.

What is a good glue to use to hold these magnets in there? If they fall
out, no biggie to re-glue.

But I'm a do it once kind of guy.

Steve

On Oct 29, 1:42*am, "Steve B" wrote:
I want to take a strip of oak and rout holes in it for quarter sized rare
earth magnets to stick my knives to rather than having them in a drawer,
which I think is unsafe.

What is a good glue to use to hold these magnets in there? *If they fall
out, no biggie to re-glue.

But I'm a do it once kind of guy.

Steve

I have a lot of money tied up in my kitchen knives. Contact with some
metals can also lead to an electrolytic reaction that will cause
rusting and staining of the blade.

Personally, I wouldn't ever damage the blade surface by hanging them
or dragging them across a magnet. That's just me... Would it be a
good thing to make a custom knife block?

Hey... where's Lew?

Epoxy, damnit! :^)

Robert

"Steve B" wrote in message
What is a good glue to use to hold these magnets in there? If they fall
out, no biggie to re-glue.

Don't glue, screw.
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/pag...=1,42363,42348

In article ,
says...

I want to take a strip of oak and rout holes in it for quarter sized rare
earth magnets to stick my knives to rather than having them in a drawer,
which I think is unsafe.

What is a good glue to use to hold these magnets in there? If they fall
out, no biggie to re-glue.

But I'm a do it once kind of guy.

One option: http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=32066&cat=
1,42363,42348

Another option--it's not as pretty as oak but it's 7 bucks:
http://www.harborfreight.com/18-inch-magnetic-holder-65489.html.

A third option: Make a drawer liner with slots for the knives.

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
Depending on magnet size, drill a blind hole with a brad point drill 5/8"
dia and below or a forstner bit above 5'8" dia so that magnet is flush.

Rough up back side of magnet with a coarse grinding wheel.

Mix up some slow laminating epoxy thickened with microballoons to the
consistency of mayo.

Butter hole with epoxy and set rough surface of magnet in hole and wait 24
hours before trimming excess "green cured" epoxy away.

Geez Lew! All that time and effort to mount a magnet, makes me wonder how
long does it take when you have a "big" project to build?

On Oct 29, 8:15*am, "Upscale" wrote:
"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
Depending on magnet size, drill a blind hole with a brad point drill 5/8"
dia and below or a forstner bit above 5'8" dia so that magnet is flush.

Rough up back side of magnet with a coarse grinding wheel.

Mix up some slow laminating epoxy thickened with microballoons to the
consistency of mayo.

Butter hole with epoxy and set rough surface of magnet in hole and wait 24
hours before trimming excess "green cured" epoxy away.

Geez Lew! All that time and effort to mount a magnet, makes me wonder how
long does it take when you have a "big" project to build?

Then he uses macroballoons.

"Steve B" wrote in message
...
I want to take a strip of oak and rout holes in it for quarter sized rare
earth magnets to stick my knives to rather than having them in a drawer,
which I think is unsafe.

What is a good glue to use to hold these magnets in there? If they fall
out, no biggie to re-glue.

But I'm a do it once kind of guy.

Steve

Steve,

I haven't seen anyone else mention this so either I'm the first or I'm
stoopid... But won't the blade pick up magnetism eventually? That's not
such a good thing to me but may be a useless or harmless trait otherwise.

I just envision sharpening the blade and knowing that there are small pieces
of shaved-off steel all over the magnetic blade ready to jump into my food.
--


Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
01.908.542.0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com
Production Tapping: http://Production-Tapping-Equipment.com/
Flagship Site: http://www.Drill-N-Tap.com
VIDEOS: http://www.youtube.com/user/AutoDrill
TWITTER: http://twitter.com/AutoDrill
FACEBOOK: http://tinyurl.com/AutoDrill-Facebook

V8013-R

On Oct 29, 2:42*am, "Steve B" wrote:
I want to take a strip of oak and rout holes in it for quarter sized rare
earth magnets to stick my knives to rather than having them in a drawer,
which I think is unsafe.

What is a good glue to use to hold these magnets in there? *If they fall
out, no biggie to re-glue.

But I'm a do it once kind of guy.

Quarter-sized rare earth magnets? You must have some hatchets for
kitchen tools!.

I know rare earth magnets have a nickel coating, or similar, and I
believe some of the rare earths ain't too good for you. Probably not
a problem, but have you thought about recessing the magnets inside the
back of a wood strip so they won't actually touch the blades at all?
If the wood gets nicked, you could just sand it out and you wouldn't
have to worry about the magnets getting damaged or gluing them in.

R

In article , says...

"Steve B" wrote in message
...
I want to take a strip of oak and rout holes in it for quarter sized rare
earth magnets to stick my knives to rather than having them in a drawer,
which I think is unsafe.

What is a good glue to use to hold these magnets in there? If they fall
out, no biggie to re-glue.

But I'm a do it once kind of guy.

Steve

Steve,

I haven't seen anyone else mention this so either I'm the first or I'm
stoopid... But won't the blade pick up magnetism eventually? That's not
such a good thing to me but may be a useless or harmless trait otherwise.

I just envision sharpening the blade and knowing that there are small pieces
of shaved-off steel all over the magnetic blade ready to jump into my food.

Depends on the alloy. Some are magnetizable, some are magnetic but not
magnetizable, some are nonmagnetic.

In any case steel in the particle sizes typical of sharpening is just a
mineral supplement.

On Thu, 28 Oct 2010 23:42:51 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:

I want to take a strip of oak and rout holes in it for quarter sized rare
earth magnets to stick my knives to rather than having them in a drawer,
which I think is unsafe.

When you magnetize knives, they pick up small slivers of metal from
wherever they rest, so you get extra shards in your food. Yummy!

Make an angled wooden rack and store the knives with the blade UP.
It protects the blade and keeps it from dulling against the rack, and
is safer than drawer storage.

I drilled a couple holes and store my fillet knife in its plastic
sheath mounted underneath the upper cabinet. You could do something
like that with knife racks, too.

These are damned cool, though. http://picsdigger.com/image/8e60323a/

I have one of these: http://picsdigger.com/image/4e579304/

But you could build one of these for your drawer:
http://picsdigger.com/image/33f9553c/

--
Most people assume the fights are going to be the left versus the right,
but it always is the reasonable versus the jerks.
-- Jimmy Wales

"Joe AutoDrill" wrote in
:


Steve,

I haven't seen anyone else mention this so either I'm the first or I'm
stoopid... But won't the blade pick up magnetism eventually? That's
not such a good thing to me but may be a useless or harmless trait
otherwise.

I just envision sharpening the blade and knowing that there are small
pieces of shaved-off steel all over the magnetic blade ready to jump
into my food.

The weak magnetic field a knife may pick up won't hold on to metal
particles under a stream of water for very long. Simply wash the knife
before use and you'll solve that problem.

Puckdropper
--
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.

wrote in message
...
On Oct 29, 1:42 am, "Steve B" wrote:
I want to take a strip of oak and rout holes in it for quarter sized rare
earth magnets to stick my knives to rather than having them in a drawer,
which I think is unsafe.

What is a good glue to use to hold these magnets in there? If they fall
out, no biggie to re-glue.

But I'm a do it once kind of guy.

Steve

I have a lot of money tied up in my kitchen knives. Contact with some
metals can also lead to an electrolytic reaction that will cause
rusting and staining of the blade.

Personally, I wouldn't ever damage the blade surface by hanging them
or dragging them across a magnet. That's just me... Would it be a
good thing to make a custom knife block?

Hey... where's Lew?

Epoxy, damnit! :^)


How about a thin coat of epoxy on face of magnet?? ww

Robert

wrote in message
...
On Oct 29, 1:42 am, "Steve B" wrote:
I want to take a strip of oak and rout holes in it for quarter sized
rare
earth magnets to stick my knives to rather than having them in a
drawer,
which I think is unsafe.

What is a good glue to use to hold these magnets in there? If they
fall
out, no biggie to re-glue.

But I'm a do it once kind of guy.

Steve

I have a lot of money tied up in my kitchen knives. Contact with some
metals can also lead to an electrolytic reaction that will cause
rusting and staining of the blade.

Personally, I wouldn't ever damage the blade surface by hanging them
or dragging them across a magnet. That's just me... Would it be a
good thing to make a custom knife block?

Hey... where's Lew?

Epoxy, damnit! :^)

Robert



Various analyses have shown what common-sense reflection has no
trouble endorsing: storing knives in slotted blocks (especially wood)
can put them in a great bacterial reservoir. Of course, if you
scrupulously
dry, chemically disinfect or autoclave your knives and maintain a
block in
germicidal condition, you're all good.

Aside, when Carl Linnaeus first grouped bacteria and viruses, he put
them under the taxonomic heading "Chaos".

Regards,

EH

On Oct 29, 2:07*pm, "Edward Hennessey"
wrote:

Various analyses have shown what common-sense reflection has no
trouble endorsing: storing knives in slotted blocks (especially wood)
can put them in a great bacterial reservoir. Of course, if you
scrupulously
dry, chemically disinfect or autoclave your knives and maintain a
block in
germicidal condition, you're all good.

Hmmmm.... not likely to throw out my wooden knife block of 30 years.
I don't own an autoclave. I don't chemically disinfect. I wash my
knives after each use, dry them, and put them in the block.

Perhaps you should enhance your cleaning protocols. I have never
seen, smelled, or witnessed in any fashion bacterial growth in my
wooden knife block.

With millions in use around the world, I wonder why this so apparent
to you hasn't been an issue of "common sense"...

At any rate, to help you understand, this is a comparison of plastic
to wood for cutting board usage. I was able to determine that if
bacterial debris was able to be well managed on a wood cutting board
that has direct contact with raw meat, raw vegetables, etc., then
"common sense" tells me I am probably fine.

The knife block has a tremendous advantage over the cutting board
which sees more potentially dangerous use. The knife block receives
dry, clean knifes into a dry, clean slot. The cutting board deals
with all manner of raw foods at all different temperatures, and then
has them pushed down into slits cut into the surface from normal use.

Yet, according to UC Davis, the bacteria farming surface of a cutting
board can be easily managed.

http://faculty.vetmed.ucdavis.edu/fa...ttingboard.htm

Other research has verified this study. And the wood vs. anything
else issue for all manner of kitchen ware has been beaten to death.
DAGS is a great ally when understanding this issue.

After re-reading that study, I am betting that my dry, clean knife
block has an even better chance at a maintaining a clean, safe
surface, much more so than the wood cutting boards.

Maybe it's just me and a few million others....

Robert

"Edward Hennessey" wrote in message
...

Various analyses have shown what common-sense reflection has no
trouble endorsing: storing knives in slotted blocks (especially wood)
can put them in a great bacterial reservoir. Of course, if you
scrupulously
dry, chemically disinfect or autoclave your knives and maintain a block in
germicidal condition, you're all good.



The other alternative is to have a healthy immune system.

On Oct 29, 5:07*pm, "CW" wrote:
"Edward Hennessey" wrote in message

Various analyses have shown what common-sense reflection has no
trouble endorsing: storing knives in slotted blocks (especially wood)
can put them in a great bacterial reservoir. Of course, if you
scrupulously
dry, chemically disinfect or autoclave your knives and maintain a block in
germicidal condition, you're all good.

The other alternative is to have a healthy immune system.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CnmMNdiCz_s

RIP George.

R

"RicodJour" wrote in message
...
On Oct 29, 5:07 pm, "CW" wrote:
"Edward Hennessey" wrote in message

Various analyses have shown what common-sense reflection has no
trouble endorsing: storing knives in slotted blocks (especially wood)
can put them in a great bacterial reservoir. Of course, if you
scrupulously
dry, chemically disinfect or autoclave your knives and maintain a block
in
germicidal condition, you're all good.

The other alternative is to have a healthy immune system.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CnmMNdiCz_s

RIP George.

R


You beat me to it. Carlin was, I believe, one of the greats.

Ed Pawlowski wrote:


Nailshooter says knives can discolor or otherwise be harmed by
magnets, you say they have shards of metal. I'll add my personal
experience with six knives hanging on a magnetic strip for the past
20+ years. The blades have suffered no harm and have no visual
differences. I've never seen even the tiniest bit of metal holding
on a blade from magnetism. YMMV. I'll report back in another 20
years.

Yeah??? Well... we'll see what you have to say 20 years after THAT!

--

-Mike-

WW wrote:
wrote in message
...
On Oct 29, 1:42 am, "Steve B" wrote:
I want to take a strip of oak and rout holes in it for quarter sized
rare earth magnets to stick my knives to rather than having them in
a drawer, which I think is unsafe.

What is a good glue to use to hold these magnets in there? If they
fall out, no biggie to re-glue.

But I'm a do it once kind of guy.

Steve

I have a lot of money tied up in my kitchen knives. Contact with some
metals can also lead to an electrolytic reaction that will cause
rusting and staining of the blade.

Personally, I wouldn't ever damage the blade surface by hanging them
or dragging them across a magnet. That's just me... Would it be a
good thing to make a custom knife block?

Hey... where's Lew?

Epoxy, damnit! :^)


How about a thin coat of epoxy on face of magnet?? ww

Robert

Ok - I'm dumb... but with the way that you are posting, I cannot easily
distinguish between the posts you are quoting and the comments you are
making.

--

-Mike-

Edward Hennessey wrote:


Various analyses have shown what common-sense reflection has no
trouble endorsing: storing knives in slotted blocks (especially wood)
can put them in a great bacterial reservoir. Of course, if you
scrupulously
dry, chemically disinfect or autoclave your knives and maintain a
block in
germicidal condition, you're all good.

Aside, when Carl Linnaeus first grouped bacteria and viruses, he put
them under the taxonomic heading "Chaos".

Regards,

EH

Of course that great scare tactic would have a great deal of trouble
rectifying the huge disparity between it's claim and the real world
experience of people who have used knife blocks for... well, very long
periods of time.

--

-Mike-

?Why not route the holes on the back side of the oak strip, but only going
part-way through. That'd leave an umblemished oak face. Another similar
suggestion would be to inlay a different colored wood "spot" centered on
each magnet. The magnet would be inlayed from the back and the spot from
the front, leaving only wood showing.

Karl


"Edward Hennessey" wrote in message
...


wrote in message
...
On Oct 29, 1:42 am, "Steve B" wrote:
I want to take a strip of oak and rout holes in it for quarter sized rare
earth magnets to stick my knives to rather than having them in a drawer,
which I think is unsafe.

What is a good glue to use to hold these magnets in there? If they fall
out, no biggie to re-glue.

But I'm a do it once kind of guy.

Steve

I have a lot of money tied up in my kitchen knives. Contact with some
metals can also lead to an electrolytic reaction that will cause
rusting and staining of the blade.

Personally, I wouldn't ever damage the blade surface by hanging them
or dragging them across a magnet. That's just me... Would it be a
good thing to make a custom knife block?

Hey... where's Lew?

Epoxy, damnit! :^)

Robert



Various analyses have shown what common-sense reflection has no
trouble endorsing: storing knives in slotted blocks (especially wood)
can put them in a great bacterial reservoir. Of course, if you
scrupulously
dry, chemically disinfect or autoclave your knives and maintain a
block in
germicidal condition, you're all good.

Aside, when Carl Linnaeus first grouped bacteria and viruses, he put
them under the taxonomic heading "Chaos".

Regards,

EH

Knife steels do not actually sharpen knives. They have no abrasive but
rather only allign the edge again. There should be no metal come off using a
steel.

http://culinaryarts.about.com/od/cul.../ht/honing.htm


"RicodJour" wrote in message
...
What's with all of the shards? What are you guys using to sharpen
your knives - a half ******* file? I sharpen with stones once in a
blue moon. A steel is used for the day to day sharpening. It's all
that's ever needed, and I have yet to see a shard. What comes off
with the steel is dust, and that's a mineral supplement. You'd pay
top dollar for it at GNC. Iron, chromium...what's the MDR for
vanadium?

R

On Fri, 29 Oct 2010 05:20:22 -0400, "Upscale" wrote:


"Steve B" wrote in message
What is a good glue to use to hold these magnets in there? If they fall
out, no biggie to re-glue.

Don't glue, screw.
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/pag...=1,42363,42348

Thank you!
I was wading through all the replies to see if I needed to post a link to
these..
I use them for my lathe tools and they focus the magnetic force where you need
it..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Fri, 29 Oct 2010 08:49:03 -0400, "Joe AutoDrill" wrote:

Steve,

I haven't seen anyone else mention this so either I'm the first or I'm
stoopid... But won't the blade pick up magnetism eventually? That's not
such a good thing to me but may be a useless or harmless trait otherwise.

I just envision sharpening the blade and knowing that there are small pieces
of shaved-off steel all over the magnetic blade ready to jump into my food.
--
The magnetism isn't a problem...
I hold all my lathe tools on magnets and once in a while I feel a slight
attraction between the tool and the tool rest..
A few swipes in the opposite direction, in my case pushing up instead of pulling
down, demagnetizes the tool..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

In article , says...

Knife steels do not actually sharpen knives. They have no abrasive but
rather only allign the edge again. There should be no metal come off using a
steel.

http://culinaryarts.about.com/od/cul.../ht/honing.htm

(1) Ceramic and diamond steels most assuredly do sharpen.

(2) Conventional steels, which anyone who uses scrapers would recognize
as being "burnishers", work the edge from alternating directions,
thinning it. When it's thin enough it comes off. The pieces are tiny
and infrequent, so they don't get noticed, but they're there.


"RicodJour" wrote in message
...
What's with all of the shards? What are you guys using to sharpen
your knives - a half ******* file? I sharpen with stones once in a
blue moon. A steel is used for the day to day sharpening. It's all
that's ever needed, and I have yet to see a shard. What comes off
with the steel is dust, and that's a mineral supplement. You'd pay
top dollar for it at GNC. Iron, chromium...what's the MDR for
vanadium?

R

RicodJour wrote:

What's with all of the shards? What are you guys using to sharpen
your knives - a half ******* file? I sharpen with stones once in a
blue moon. A steel is used for the day to day sharpening. It's all
that's ever needed, and I have yet to see a shard. What comes off
with the steel is dust, and that's a mineral supplement. You'd pay
top dollar for it at GNC. Iron, chromium...what's the MDR for
vanadium?


I'll give you that point - I did not like using the word "shards" when I
posted, but was in too much of a rush to think of a better way to phrase it.
My bad...

--

-Mike-

On Sat, 30 Oct 2010 09:03:26 -0400, "Mike Marlow"
wrote:

RicodJour wrote:

What's with all of the shards? What are you guys using to sharpen
your knives - a half ******* file? I sharpen with stones once in a
blue moon. A steel is used for the day to day sharpening. It's all
that's ever needed, and I have yet to see a shard. What comes off
with the steel is dust, and that's a mineral supplement. You'd pay
top dollar for it at GNC. Iron, chromium...what's the MDR for
vanadium?


I'll give you that point - I did not like using the word "shards" when I
posted, but was in too much of a rush to think of a better way to phrase it.
My bad...

Yeah, I had just broken a flower pot and it sunk deeply into my
consciousness at the time. The correct word is swarf. My bad.

--
Ask not what the world needs. Ask what makes you come
alive... then go do it. Because what the world needs
is people who have come alive. -- Howard Thurman

On Oct 30, 2:12Â*am, "Josepi" wrote:

Knife steels do not actually sharpen knives. They have no abrasive but
rather only allign the edge again. There should be no metal come off using a
steel.

http://culinaryarts.about.com/od/cul.../ht/honing.htm

Well, if before I use the steel the knife won't cleanly slice paper,
and afterward it'll slice off the tiniest slivers of paper, what's the
steel doing? Dulling the blade? Of course it's sharpening it - it is
making it sharper. You use words like you're a stranger to them.

From Wiki:
"Sharpening is the process of creating or refining a sharp edge of
appropriate shape on a tool or implement designed for cutting."

Or the definitions:
sharp·en€‚ €‚/ˈʃɑrpÉ™n/
€“verb (used with object), verb (used without object)
to make or become sharp or sharper.

hone €‚/hoÊŠn/
€“noun
1. a whetstone of fine, compact texture for sharpening razors and
other cutting tools.
2. a precision tool with a mechanically rotated abrasive tip, for
enlarging holes to precise dimensions.
€“verb (used with object)
3. to sharpen on a hone: to hone a carving knife.

Please do your own homework and/or stop commenting on things you are
confused about.

The part about no metal coming off when using a steel was exactly my
point - where all of the shards people are talking about are coming
from? I don't get shards with a stone or steel - only with a file do
I get something I can actually feel.

R

On Oct 30, 9:16*am, Larry Jaques
wrote:

Of -course- you wipe a knife after sharpening. But if it has been
magnetized, it's much harder to remove the swarf. You can't just do a
quick stroplike wipe, you have to collect the crap in your paper towel
from both sides at once. *It's a PITA.

As Mac said, just demagnetize by running it the other way. I've never
noticed any magnetism on a knife blade, and I've never had trouble
cleaning a knife after sharpening. I rinse it, then just wipe one
side then the other on a towel and put it back.

BTW, what's with all of the *rf words in woodworking? Swarf, kerf,
arf (shop dog)...

R

The word police are arresting you, again.

Mirror comes to mind though, LOL

"Mike Marlow" wrote in message
...
I'll give you that point - I did not like using the word "shards" when I
posted, but was in too much of a rush to think of a better way to phrase it.
My bad...



RicodJour wrote:

What's with all of the shards? What are you guys using to sharpen
your knives - a half ******* file? I sharpen with stones once in a
blue moon. A steel is used for the day to day sharpening. It's all
that's ever needed, and I have yet to see a shard. What comes off
with the steel is dust, and that's a mineral supplement. You'd pay
top dollar for it at GNC. Iron, chromium...what's the MDR for
vanadium?

On Oct 30, 11:28*am, RicodJour wrote:
On Oct 30, 2:12*am, "Josepi" wrote:



Knife steels do not actually sharpen knives. They have no abrasive but
rather only allign the edge again. There should be no metal come off using a
steel.


For once Guiseppi is correct.... in a sense. What the steel does is
not remove any material but it creates a slightly serrated edge on an
already existing edge by lightly 'bending' if you will, the otherwise
smooth edge. It creates 'tooth'. Strapping does the opposite.

Stick to words, Rico.

On Oct 30, 7:20*am, "J. Clarke" wrote:

(1) Ceramic and diamond steels most assuredly do sharpen.

Absolutely. I use various grits of carborundum or alox to reprofile
my knives, then resharpen with ceramic or diamond.

For most of my knives, they simply get a sharpen with my 600 gr. 12"
chef's rod. I found it takes off less metal and leaves a finer edge
than a good quality kitchen steel. An inspection under 10X shows the
edge to be much more toothy than the diamond rod, and the resulting
material size removed is greater as well.

With that in mind, my steels are all retired.


(2) Conventional steels, which anyone who uses scrapers would recognize
as being "burnishers", work the edge from alternating directions,
thinning it. *When it's thin enough it comes off. *The pieces are tiny
and infrequent, so they don't get noticed, but they're there.

Kinda. OK... not really. A steel removes the rolled edges of a
knife. It is the *striations* on these rods that catch the roll or
"burr" and literally cut it off. An average kitchen knife has a
Rockwell hardness of about 53 - 55. You good german steel should be
about 58 or so. The striations provide the teeth to cut the tiny
burrs away, and the hardness of the steel allows it to cut off the
rolled burrs on softer steeled knives.

As a point of interest, get out a good magnifying glass and inspect
the edge before (and feel the burr with your fingernail) and then
inspect after steeling.

A burnisher however, is a smooth, finishing tool that creates an
edge. It doesn't sharpen it. Typically, the burnisher is about 59 -
60 Rockwell, so it is VERY hard.

This is a good example:

http://preview.tinyurl.com/24vsq28

There are many more images available. All show burnishers with smooth
edges, unless it is a bone burnisher used for leather.

I use the classic way of sharpening my scrapers. I lay the scraper
flat and perpendicular to the stone and get the edge as close to a
perfect, no burr square edge as possible. Then in the wood vise, I
use the burnisher to roll the edge over to form the hook. The
burnisher doesn't cut anything away, but simply forms the hook that is
razor sharp (hopefully!) from a good sharpening.

Back around '69 or so I was in a shop class and we learned to sharpen
scrapers as the teacher was not big on sanding, but huge on scrapers.
For our "burnishers" we used a couple of Miller's Falls screwdrivers
that had a 3/8" shank. Worked like a champ. Actually.... in typing
this is probably just reflects how soft the steel was in those
scrapers....

"RicodJour" wrote in message

What's with all of the shards? *What are you guys using to sharpen
your knives - a half ******* file? *

I got a helluva guffaw at that.

The tiny amount of dust that comes off my diamond rod comes off as
gray discoloration on my fingers. You would never know it was metal.

*Half ******* file*.... good one!

Robert

On Oct 30, 2:45*pm, Robatoy wrote:
On Oct 30, 11:28*am, RicodJour wrote:

On Oct 30, 2:12*am, "Josepi" wrote:

Knife steels do not actually sharpen knives. They have no abrasive but
rather only allign the edge again. There should be no metal come off using a
steel.

For once Guiseppi is correct.... in a sense. What the steel does is
not remove any material but it creates a slightly serrated edge on an
already existing edge by lightly 'bending' if you will, the otherwise
smooth edge. It creates 'tooth'. Strapping does the opposite.

Stick to words, Rico.

It's a blessing...and a curse. Sigh. What do you think 'sharpen'
means? It does not mean to make smooth. What does 'sharp' mean?
I'll save my fingers the walking and say, with respect to knives, it
means 'cuts easily'.

The J-unit said steels do not sharpen, which is an extreme example of
complete nonsense.

R

In article 1cfb2bf8-7fce-4e9b-a602-ed50ab4b0347
@g25g2000yqn.googlegroups.com, says...

On Oct 30, 7:20*am, "J. Clarke" wrote:

(1) Ceramic and diamond steels most assuredly do sharpen.

Absolutely. I use various grits of carborundum or alox to reprofile
my knives, then resharpen with ceramic or diamond.

For most of my knives, they simply get a sharpen with my 600 gr. 12"
chef's rod. I found it takes off less metal and leaves a finer edge
than a good quality kitchen steel. An inspection under 10X shows the
edge to be much more toothy than the diamond rod, and the resulting
material size removed is greater as well.

With that in mind, my steels are all retired.


(2) Conventional steels, which anyone who uses scrapers would recognize
as being "burnishers", work the edge from alternating directions,
thinning it. *When it's thin enough it comes off. *The pieces are tiny
and infrequent, so they don't get noticed, but they're there.

Kinda. OK... not really. A steel removes the rolled edges of a
knife. It is the *striations* on these rods that catch the roll or
"burr" and literally cut it off. An average kitchen knife has a
Rockwell hardness of about 53 - 55. You good german steel should be
about 58 or so. The striations provide the teeth to cut the tiny
burrs away, and the hardness of the steel allows it to cut off the
rolled burrs on softer steeled knives.

As a point of interest, get out a good magnifying glass and inspect
the edge before (and feel the burr with your fingernail) and then
inspect after steeling.

A burnisher however, is a smooth, finishing tool that creates an
edge. It doesn't sharpen it. Typically, the burnisher is about 59 -
60 Rockwell, so it is VERY hard.

The steels that I have used are simple smooth rods with no striations
that I have ever noticed.

This is a good example:

http://preview.tinyurl.com/24vsq28

There are many more images available. All show burnishers with smooth
edges, unless it is a bone burnisher used for leather.

I use the classic way of sharpening my scrapers. I lay the scraper
flat and perpendicular to the stone and get the edge as close to a
perfect, no burr square edge as possible. Then in the wood vise, I
use the burnisher to roll the edge over to form the hook. The
burnisher doesn't cut anything away, but simply forms the hook that is
razor sharp (hopefully!) from a good sharpening.

Back around '69 or so I was in a shop class and we learned to sharpen
scrapers as the teacher was not big on sanding, but huge on scrapers.
For our "burnishers" we used a couple of Miller's Falls screwdrivers
that had a 3/8" shank. Worked like a champ. Actually.... in typing
this is probably just reflects how soft the steel was in those
scrapers....

On a scraper you roll the edge one way. On a knife you end up flexing
it back and forth.

"RicodJour" wrote in message

What's with all of the shards? *What are you guys using to sharpen
your knives - a half ******* file? *

I got a helluva guffaw at that.

The tiny amount of dust that comes off my diamond rod comes off as
gray discoloration on my fingers. You would never know it was metal.

*Half ******* file*.... good one!

Robert

On 2010-10-29 03:54:45 -0400, "
said:

I have a lot of money tied up in my kitchen knives. Contact with some
metals can also lead to an electrolytic reaction that will cause
rusting and staining of the blade.

Personally, I wouldn't ever damage the blade surface by hanging them
or dragging them across a magnet. That's just me... Would it be a
good thing to make a custom knife block?

Hey... where's Lew?

Epoxy, damnit! :^)

Maybe drill the hole from the backside, so the expoxied magnet is
behind the surface the knife touches? Or drill the hole from the front
and veneer over the entire piece. Might want to use some of those
famous "sketchy" knives while testing for depth and thickness vs.
magnet strength.

And after you're finished, get rid of the junk knives -- those things
are MORE dangerous than good knives.

On 2010-10-29 17:23:27 -0400, RicodJour said:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CnmMNdiCz_s

RIP George.

R

Thank you -- my wife just came in to find out what was making me laugh!

On 2010-10-30 01:04:52 -0400, RicodJour said:

A steel is used for the day to day sharpening.

day-to-day honing

On Oct 29, 8:49*am, "Joe AutoDrill" wrote:

I haven't seen anyone else mention this so either I'm the first or I'm
stoopid... *But won't the blade pick up magnetism eventually? *That's not
such a good thing to me but may be a useless or harmless trait otherwise.

I just envision sharpening the blade and knowing that there are small pieces
of shaved-off steel all over the magnetic blade ready to jump into my food.
--

pH 1 stomach acid will dissolve steel dust. It's how mental
patients
occasionally survive swallowing razor blades.

On 10/31/10 2:33 PM, Father Haskell wrote:

pH 1 stomach acid will dissolve steel dust. It's how mental
patients
occasionally survive swallowing razor blades.

bull****


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

I agree with you but let's see your facts, cites or sites.


"-MIKE-" wrote in message
...
bull****



On 10/31/10 2:33 PM, Father Haskell wrote:

pH 1 stomach acid will dissolve steel dust. It's how mental
patients
occasionally survive swallowing razor blades.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply