"whit3rd" wrote

So, get 1/4" staples. SYP is 'southern yellow pine', I trust?
In toughness, it comes in at 470 in-lbf, a little higher than red
oak at 440 in-lbf. Half inch staples in that wood isn't an easy
test.

And I would add that the above hardness rating is when it is relatively new.
Once it has been installed for a couple years, it gets twice as hard.
(unscientific difficultly to drive a nail into old SYP)

I agree, get the 1/4" staples. There is no stapler made that will drive a
1/2" staple in that stuff.

Oh, and to the O.P. : You can send that stapler to me, if you don't like
it! ;-)
--
Jim in NC

I used all those 18Ga toys they supply with every pneumatic compressor and
roll of toilet paper. They work great for stapling sheeting down but for
baseboards and casings you need something that doesn't just hold until the
glue dries. That takes some length on the fastener into real wood framing
studs, not caulking to hold the baseboard on. With a 3/4" baseboard and 1/2"
drywall on a slight angle you need one and a half inches of brad or pin to
reach the framing. Now if you are OK with 1/4" of smooth pin holding you
baseboard into a rough piece of spruce framing, twisting as it dries out
than all you need is 1.75" pins and heads are required as there is no
pulling ability anyway.

Get the 16Ga Paslode, as suggested by Robatoy and use it for 18Ga pretend
nails until the glue dries. You will have a nailer for trimming rooms and
actually holding thing together, also.


Next somebody can explain how they held 5.1/2" crown moulding up with the
23Ga cat whisker pins until the PL400 dried...LOL



"Robatoy" wrote in message
...
Now you really have me beat. All I have now is a 16ga Paslode and
buying a Grex pinner.

"Martin H. Eastburn" wrote

I have a box nail gun - board - does up to 3 1/2" (IIRC) headed nail.
They are the coil nailers and are often used in roofing. (sheet works).

tWith the guns I have, the coil guns used for roofing generally use larger
headed nails, and therefore a wider spacing in the coil. I have coil
framing nailers, and coil roofing nailers, and a wide crown roofing stapler.

The last one has been sitting since I got the coil roofing nailer. I
wouldn't use a roofing staple on a doghouse. They set to an inaccurate
depth, far too often, or back out. That is my experience with them, at
least. That was with a roof sheathing consisting of random width SPF 1 by
material. They are better in OSB or plywood, but when they hit a rafter or
truss, they will often not set as deep as is necessary, causing the roofing
applier to crawl back on a roof to renail several shingles-for years to
come. DAMHIKT! :-(
--
Jim in NC

"Josepi" wrote in
:

*snip*


Next somebody can explain how they held 5.1/2" crown moulding up with
the 23Ga cat whisker pins until the PL400 dried...LOL

Ask the guy who built the wall over at Doug's place.

Puckdropper
--
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.

On Sun, 8 Aug 2010 21:35:26 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:


"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
.. .
On Sun, 8 Aug 2010 19:32:37 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:

Afterthought, after reading other posts: Buy a brand name like Porter
Cable, DeWalt, etc. Avoid HF and the like. In the long run, you will be
thankful.

See refutation in my other post. HF rules. No problems.

The only problem I've encountered with the nailers is that they dont'
want to work at under 55psi. I'm willing to bet that most other
brands won't, either, so it's not a real problem.


If you like ****, buy it, and use it. I've got no problem with that. Some
day you'll work up to quality tools.

Poor Steve. You just don't realize that -most- tools, including all
your pricy name-branded schtuff, are made in China _anyway_, and are
then priced 4x up for the name-brand. If you want to waste your money
for a label, go right ahead. Some day you'll wise up.

For daily/critical tools, I buy known better products, such as the
Bosch and Makita impactors. For the rest, I buy decent tools for a
lot less money and they work flawlessly for me.

On Mon, 9 Aug 2010 07:09:47 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:


"J. Clarke" wrote in message
...
On 8/9/2010 12:35 AM, Steve B wrote:
"Larry wrote in message
...
On Sun, 8 Aug 2010 19:32:37 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:

Afterthought, after reading other posts: Buy a brand name like Porter
Cable, DeWalt, etc. Avoid HF and the like. In the long run, you will
be
thankful.

See refutation in my other post. HF rules. No problems.

The only problem I've encountered with the nailers is that they dont'
want to work at under 55psi. I'm willing to bet that most other
brands won't, either, so it's not a real problem.


If you like ****, buy it, and use it. I've got no problem with that.
Some
day you'll work up to quality tools.

If you're making your living with a nailer then perhaps there's some
noticeable difference between the expensive brands and Harbor Freight, but
for the average hobbyist or homeowner Harbor Freight air tools work fine.

Do you actually own a Harbor Freight nailer or are you trying to justify
your own overspending?

I have several HF products, and they are marginal because they don't last as
long as brand names. They work, but they don't last, or the mechanisms
become sloppy. As for overspending, I have bought new or almost new brand
names at a local pawn shop for less than HF wants for theirs. Last thing I
bought was a like new Karcher 2650OH 6hp Honda power washer for $50 with 50'
of hose and five tips. HEAVY Rockwell 12" table saw $40. Craftsman 1.5 hp
router, table, and set of 40 bits, $60. Skil 2 wheel bench grinder $15.
All better than any HF comparable. BTW, I got a BRAND new PC pancake
compressor, and two nail guns, and a pin nailer, all NEW, for $125 for the
set, speaking of nailers.

You realize that all those items were boosted out of the back of
someone's garage or truck the night before, don't you? Pawn shops are
notorious for hot items, and the prices indicate that in your (LV,
right?) area.

On Mon, 9 Aug 2010 18:28:12 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:


"J. Clarke" wrote in message
...
On 8/9/2010 10:09 AM, Steve B wrote:
"J. wrote in message
...
On 8/9/2010 12:35 AM, Steve B wrote:
"Larry wrote in message
...
On Sun, 8 Aug 2010 19:32:37 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:

Afterthought, after reading other posts: Buy a brand name like
Porter
Cable, DeWalt, etc. Avoid HF and the like. In the long run, you
will
be
thankful.

See refutation in my other post. HF rules. No problems.

The only problem I've encountered with the nailers is that they dont'
want to work at under 55psi. I'm willing to bet that most other
brands won't, either, so it's not a real problem.


If you like ****, buy it, and use it. I've got no problem with that.
Some
day you'll work up to quality tools.

If you're making your living with a nailer then perhaps there's some
noticeable difference between the expensive brands and Harbor Freight,
but
for the average hobbyist or homeowner Harbor Freight air tools work
fine.

Do you actually own a Harbor Freight nailer or are you trying to justify
your own overspending?

I have several HF products, and they are marginal because they don't last
as
long as brand names.

Is any of them an air nailer?

They work, but they don't last, or the mechanisms
become sloppy.

After how many cycles?

As for overspending, I have bought new or almost new brand
names at a local pawn shop for less than HF wants for theirs. Last thing
I
bought was a like new Karcher 2650OH 6hp Honda power washer for $50 with
50'
of hose and five tips. HEAVY Rockwell 12" table saw $40. Craftsman 1.5
hp
router, table, and set of 40 bits, $60. Skil 2 wheel bench grinder $15.
All better than any HF comparable. BTW, I got a BRAND new PC pancake
compressor, and two nail guns, and a pin nailer, all NEW, for $125 for
the
set, speaking of nailers.

Whether a Craftsman router is better than Harbor Freight is debatable. But
I don't see where you have the same tools from HF and another brand, so on
what basis do you compare?

Overspend? Who, me? Naw.

Yeah, clearly you're a cheapskate.

I'm a shopper. I don't buy cheap equipment, and then brag on just the
price. Cheap tools aren't good, and good tools aren't cheap. YMMV, and
sounds like it does. **** is ****, no matter the brand name.

Price is only loosely correlated with good.

On Mon, 09 Aug 2010 10:47:49 -0400, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

On 8/9/2010 10:09 AM, Steve B wrote:
"J. wrote in message
...
On 8/9/2010 12:35 AM, Steve B wrote:
"Larry wrote in message
...
On Sun, 8 Aug 2010 19:32:37 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:

Afterthought, after reading other posts: Buy a brand name like Porter
Cable, DeWalt, etc. Avoid HF and the like. In the long run, you will
be
thankful.

See refutation in my other post. HF rules. No problems.

The only problem I've encountered with the nailers is that they dont'
want to work at under 55psi. I'm willing to bet that most other
brands won't, either, so it's not a real problem.


If you like ****, buy it, and use it. I've got no problem with that.
Some
day you'll work up to quality tools.

If you're making your living with a nailer then perhaps there's some
noticeable difference between the expensive brands and Harbor Freight, but
for the average hobbyist or homeowner Harbor Freight air tools work fine.

Do you actually own a Harbor Freight nailer or are you trying to justify
your own overspending?

I have several HF products, and they are marginal because they don't last as
long as brand names.

Is any of them an air nailer?

They work, but they don't last, or the mechanisms
become sloppy.

After how many cycles?

And if that's the case, he could buy 3 and sell them for $10 each (or
donate them somewhere) when they slop out. He's still below the
name-brand price tag. 3ea HF nailers and 3ea 5k boxes of nails cost
less than a single Bostich or PC nailer.

On Mon, 9 Aug 2010 22:16:58 -0400, "Morgans" wrote:


"whit3rd" wrote

So, get 1/4" staples. SYP is 'southern yellow pine', I trust?
In toughness, it comes in at 470 in-lbf, a little higher than red
oak at 440 in-lbf. Half inch staples in that wood isn't an easy
test.

It's what the Borg and Lowes here sell for dimensional lumber.

And I would add that the above hardness rating is when it is relatively new.
Once it has been installed for a couple years, it gets twice as hard.
(unscientific difficultly to drive a nail into old SYP)

I agree, get the 1/4" staples. There is no stapler made that will drive a
1/2" staple in that stuff.

My old spring stapler does just fine, as does the HF pneumatic stapler. This
thing is *WIMPY*.

Oh, and to the O.P. : You can send that stapler to me, if you don't like
it! ;-)

Send me the $100, otherwise I'll put it in someone's garage sale and hope for
$5. ;-) ...or the garbage, if I have to look at it too many more times.

On Mon, 09 Aug 2010 18:14:33 -0500, Swingman wrote:

On 8/9/2010 11:09 AM, Robatoy wrote:


To do things right, you need a selection.

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...oy/Gunrack.jpg

Like your gun rack. May have to steal the idea.

Hey, _that_ is no systainer.

On Aug 9, 7:14*pm, Swingman wrote:
On 8/9/2010 11:09 AM, Robatoy wrote:



To do things right, you need a selection.

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...oy/Gunrack.jpg

Like your gun rack. May have to steal the idea.

--www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)

Thankee..Handy thing that. Maple ply, taped edges.

On Aug 8, 5:44*pm, Pistol_Pete wrote:
I found the18 GA nail gun to be a bit light and went with the 15 GA
for case work. But the 18 GA would work for tri - but those who do a
lot of fine trim work would likely recommend the lighter GA pin
nailer. No heads as I understand it so less putty/filler and
sanding . . . If you can only afford the one, a good 18GA 'l do ya

On Aug 8, 5:44*pm, Pistol_Pete wrote:

OH, make SURE your guns have a DEPTH ADJUSTMENT!

Question #2: Some nailers also drive staples. What are staples good
for? Upholstery? Insulation?

Not for insulation - well, if the depth adjustment allows you to set
on and not drive through the paper backing I suppose it would work. I
use a hammer stapler T50's 3/16 deep for installing insulation in
walls.

They work where nails work. I've used them everywhere I can imagine.
I've ONLY used quarter-inch crown staples in a pneumatic gun. And, I
suspect, that is the kind used by guns that shoot either brads or
staples.

One caution, they can "blow a leg out" and surprise you - and, then,
getting them out is tough.

Morgans wrote:
"Martin H. Eastburn" wrote

I have a box nail gun - board - does up to 3 1/2" (IIRC) headed nail.
They are the coil nailers and are often used in roofing. (sheet works).

tWith the guns I have, the coil guns used for roofing generally use larger
headed nails, and therefore a wider spacing in the coil. I have coil
framing nailers, and coil roofing nailers, and a wide crown roofing stapler.

The last one has been sitting since I got the coil roofing nailer. I
wouldn't use a roofing staple on a doghouse. They set to an inaccurate
depth, far too often, or back out. That is my experience with them, at
least. That was with a roof sheathing consisting of random width SPF 1 by
material. They are better in OSB or plywood, but when they hit a rafter or
truss, they will often not set as deep as is necessary, causing the roofing
applier to crawl back on a roof to renail several shingles-for years to
come. DAMHIKT! :-(

I recently had my roof professionally replaced. They used the staplers
with 3.5" staples to attach plywood sheeting only. A coiled roofing
nailer was used for the shingles.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

You talking about the OCD specialist in everybody's killfilter list?


"Puckdropper" puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in message
...
Ask the guy who built the wall over at Doug's place.

Puckdropper
--
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.


"Josepi" wrote in
:

*snip*


Next somebody can explain how they held 5.1/2" crown moulding up with
the 23Ga cat whisker pins until the PL400 dried...LOL

On 8/10/2010 8:12 AM, Nova wrote:
Morgans wrote:
"Martin H. Eastburn" wrote

I have a box nail gun - board - does up to 3 1/2" (IIRC) headed nail.
They are the coil nailers and are often used in roofing. (sheet works).

tWith the guns I have, the coil guns used for roofing generally use
larger headed nails, and therefore a wider spacing in the coil. I have
coil framing nailers, and coil roofing nailers, and a wide crown
roofing stapler.

The last one has been sitting since I got the coil roofing nailer. I
wouldn't use a roofing staple on a doghouse. They set to an inaccurate
depth, far too often, or back out. That is my experience with them, at
least. That was with a roof sheathing consisting of random width SPF 1
by material. They are better in OSB or plywood, but when they hit a
rafter or truss, they will often not set as deep as is necessary,
causing the roofing applier to crawl back on a roof to renail several
shingles-for years to come. DAMHIKT! :-(

I recently had my roof professionally replaced. They used the staplers
with 3.5" staples to attach plywood sheeting only. A coiled roofing
nailer was used for the shingles.

The packaging on the 50 year GAF shingles I put on my garage a couple of
years back stated explicitly that the warranty was void if they were
attached with staples.

Mine did too. Forget the brand but not GAF. Staples rip the shingles through
too easily.

Even power nailers area problem with the two layer shingles. The impact past
the edge of the second layer tend to rip through the upper layer where the
hollow spot is. Warranty void again.


"J. Clarke" wrote in message
...
The packaging on the 50 year GAF shingles I put on my garage a couple of
years back stated explicitly that the warranty was void if they were
attached with staples.

"Josepi" wrote in message
...
I used all those 18Ga toys they supply with every pneumatic compressor and
roll of toilet paper. They work great for stapling sheeting down but for
baseboards and casings you need something that doesn't just hold until the
glue dries. That takes some length on the fastener into real wood framing
studs, not caulking to hold the baseboard on. With a 3/4" baseboard and
1/2"
drywall on a slight angle you need one and a half inches of brad or pin to
reach the framing. Now if you are OK with 1/4" of smooth pin holding you
baseboard into a rough piece of spruce framing, twisting as it dries out
than all you need is 1.75" pins and heads are required as there is no
pulling ability anyway.

Who in the world are you responding to?

The OP did not ask about attaching base board to a wall. He wants to attach
trim to a furniture. Again a finish nail gun on furniture may be your cup
of tea along with distressed furniture, which is what you are going to get
if you build furniture with a finish nail gun.



Get the 16Ga Paslode, as suggested by Robatoy and use it for 18Ga pretend
nails until the glue dries. You will have a nailer for trimming rooms and
actually holding thing together, also.

And I again ask why not go with a framing nailer and be done with it??

"Larry Jaques" wrote

Poor Steve. You just don't realize that -most- tools, including all
your pricy name-branded schtuff, are made in China _anyway_, and are
then priced 4x up for the name-brand. If you want to waste your money
for a label, go right ahead. Some day you'll wise up.

For daily/critical tools, I buy known better products, such as the
Bosch and Makita impactors. For the rest, I buy decent tools for a
lot less money and they work flawlessly for me.


Yabbut, Lar, there's no cachet value in those chea.....uh.........low
pric.........uh......implements.
I wear a disguise when I go to HF.

Max

Perhaps you need to reread the OP's questions and try to stay on the topic
posted, instead of attempting a moronic overexageration distraction.

My recommendation stands.


"Leon" wrote in message
...
Who in the world are you responding to?

The OP did not ask about attaching base board to a wall. He wants to attach
trim to a furniture. Again a finish nail gun on furniture may be your cup
of tea along with distressed furniture, which is what you are going to get
if you build furniture with a finish nail gun.


And I again ask why not go with a framing nailer and be done with it??

On Tue, 10 Aug 2010 16:22:29 -0500, "Leon"
wrote:

"Josepi" wrote in message

Who in the world are you responding to?

Uh, Leon. Josepi is a troll. PDFTFT.

On Tue, 10 Aug 2010 16:25:55 -0600, "Max"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote

Poor Steve. You just don't realize that -most- tools, including all
your pricy name-branded schtuff, are made in China _anyway_, and are
then priced 4x up for the name-brand. If you want to waste your money
for a label, go right ahead. Some day you'll wise up.

For daily/critical tools, I buy known better products, such as the
Bosch and Makita impactors. For the rest, I buy decent tools for a
lot less money and they work flawlessly for me.


Yabbut, Lar, there's no cachet value in those chea.....uh.........low
pric.........uh......implements.
I wear a disguise when I go to HF.

I happily shop both Wally World and Harbor Fright without disguises,
you total _wuss_, you.

I was thinking the same thing about Sybil here.

PDFTFT


"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
Uh, Leon. Josepi is a troll. PDFTFT.



--
Have your accounts been removed by other's complaints?
Do you like to force your opinions on others?
Do you need to use multiple names due to shame and fear?
Better rates for those requiring anonymity to survive!
******** easynews.com, trolling made easy **********

"Josepi" wrote in message
...
Perhaps you need to reread the OP's questions and try to stay on the topic
posted, instead of attempting a moronic overexageration distraction.

My recommendation stands.


I need some advice about a pneumatic brad nailer. I've never had one,
and they look like they would be a real help when the guys on TV use
them. Question #1: Is an eighteen gauge nailer what I want? I will be
building a bookcase/desk out of ¾” plywood (to be painted) and I'll be
using the nailer to attach trim around the top, and to put on the
backs of the bookcases (½” plywood). Not sure just yet if I will use
it for the shelves, but I'm pretty sure I won't – they will probably
be adjustable.


You reread it, I reposted it above for your convenience.

I think a finish nailer would be a moronic exageration for any of the above.

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 10 Aug 2010 16:22:29 -0500, "Leon"
wrote:

"Josepi" wrote in message

Who in the world are you responding to?

Uh, Leon. Josepi is a troll. PDFTFT.



Yeah, I am starting to realize this, I certainly hope he never has any
thing of value to say as I am going to miss it.

I guess you don't take Doug's orders very well either. tisk..tisk.. Your
latest posts have been so valuable. Now remember you didn't see this.

LOL

"Leon" wrote in message
...
Yeah, I am starting to realize this, I certainly hope he never has any
thing of value to say as I am going to miss it.


"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 10 Aug 2010 16:22:29 -0500, "Leon"
wrote:

"Josepi" wrote in message

Who in the world are you responding to?

Uh, Leon. Josepi is a troll. PDFTFT.

Pistol_Pete wrote:
I need some advice about a pneumatic brad nailer. I've never had one,
and they look like they would be a real help when the guys on TV use
them. Question #1: Is an eighteen gauge nailer what I want? I will be
building a bookcase/desk out of ¾” plywood (to be painted) and I'll be
using the nailer to attach trim around the top, and to put on the
backs of the bookcases (½” plywood). Not sure just yet if I will use
it for the shelves, but I'm pretty sure I won't – they will probably
be adjustable.

I recently bought the 18g pin nailer/stapler from HF

http://tinyurl.com/29bok9f

I rarely had a need for an air nailer in my shop, or a stapler, but have
always wanted one for just what you are wanting to do. I read in here
all about the HF stuff, some good, some bad. My brother bought the
above nailer for some bee hives he was making, and a friend of his
recommended the HF. I told him I had read (here) they were ok, but
don't get the combo. He said he had no problems with it... so, I bought
one.

When I got it home, I tested it out, first shooting some 1 3/16 pin
nails... Worked fine. Then, put in stables and it jammed... I though
damn, this sucks, but when I cleared the jam, it was a pin and a staple
that jammed, and apparently, when I removed the nails, I left one in the
firing mechanism, and the staple and pin both fired at once, jamming the
gun. Since then, I've only used it a few times, about 500 pins and no
jamming.

I really know nothing about brad sizes.

18g is skinny and won't split much of anything. I first built a bird
house and bird feeder ( only thing I could think of other than trim I'd
use a nailer for) and I shot pins into the edges of 3/8" lumber and no
splits. More of a problem is pins shooting out the sides if it hits
something like a knot, or your aim is not straight.

The pins hold fairly well, the bird stuff I used no glue, and they feel
solid. Other than that, the pins are way too weak for anything
structural. They would be good for nailing backs on cabinets.

As far as pinning until the glue dries... nah, I like clamps. Nails
require putty, something I avoid as much as possible. A more
appropriate use would be nailing a template, say for a shaper or bandsaw
pattern.

If I don't buy any air nailer,
I will probably use 1 ½” brads to attach the backs (with glue of
course)

I never glue on a back, always just use nails. Perfect use for a pin
nailer.

but a pneumatic nailer would make the job a whole lot easier.

Yes, unless you manage to shoot a nail out the side, or get a jam...

I think ¾” or 5/8” brads of any diameter would be good for the trim
but I question if 18 ga. x 1 ½” would be big enough. The piece will be
built-in, and screwed to the wall through the plywood back, which is
the reason for using the ½” plywood instead of ¼”.

I bought 1 3/16th pins, figuring I could pin 2 3/4" boards together.

Question #2: Some nailers also drive staples. What are staples good
for? Upholstery? Insulation?

Staples are used for lots of stuff. I bought 1/2" and will probably need
longer ones. Haven't used the stapler yet, other than to test it out.

I would definitely buy the HF stapler/nailer combo above for
intermittent use in a home shop. If you do it for a living, say a trim
carpenter, you would not be asking:-)

I liked it so much, I built a $50 case to store it in.

--
Jack
Those who trade liberty for security have neither.
John Adams
http://jbstein.com

Steve B wrote:

I'm a shopper. I don't buy cheap equipment, and then brag on just the
price. Cheap tools aren't good, and good tools aren't cheap. YMMV, and
sounds like it does. **** is ****, no matter the brand name.

I generally agree with you but there are a lot of exceptions. The HF
air nailer is one of them if you are a cabinet maker. Personally, I
would rather go to a bar and have a beer than nail the **** out of
everything like Norm does on TV. He pins everything after slopping on a
bottle of glue. I like to clamp things, using just enough glue. This
means I don't really NEED a pin nailer much and will not likely EVER
wear out my HF nailer, although it might rust some between uses.

Here is another exception, imo: http://tinyurl.com/2bul22m

This is a HF ratchet clamp. Is it junk, yep, but for a few bucks it's a
great deal, particularly since I know exactly what about it is junk,
(couple of plastic parts in the handle) and that I can quickly and
easily refurbish it so it is not junk, and for the cost of one machine
screw and some glue I have a clamp that does everything I expect for
next to nothing so I could buy 20 of them for the price of one or two
top dollar clamps.

Another exception, on the other end, is Festool stuff. Is it good, I
reckon it is, but at what a cost? Do I really need to spend $800 on a
Festool Router?

Lastly, if you don't own and use a HF nail gun, you probably shouldn't
argue with people that do own one.

--
Jack
It's "We the People" not We the the Congress!
http://jbstein.com

I paid $1.99 for that same clamp. A couple were no good and had to be
exchanged, but for a $1.99 I felt it was worth the risk.

I have both porter cable and HF nailers and staplers. The porter cable
are good, but overpriced after using the HF. My HF have performed well.

I am glad I finally took the plunge on them. I kept buying the more
expensive nailers and staplers.



On 8/11/2010 2:08 PM, Jack Stein wrote:
Steve B wrote:

I'm a shopper. I don't buy cheap equipment, and then brag on just the
price. Cheap tools aren't good, and good tools aren't cheap. YMMV, and
sounds like it does. **** is ****, no matter the brand name.

I generally agree with you but there are a lot of exceptions. The HF air
nailer is one of them if you are a cabinet maker. Personally, I would
rather go to a bar and have a beer than nail the **** out of everything
like Norm does on TV. He pins everything after slopping on a bottle of
glue. I like to clamp things, using just enough glue. This means I don't
really NEED a pin nailer much and will not likely EVER wear out my HF
nailer, although it might rust some between uses.

Here is another exception, imo: http://tinyurl.com/2bul22m

This is a HF ratchet clamp. Is it junk, yep, but for a few bucks it's a
great deal, particularly since I know exactly what about it is junk,
(couple of plastic parts in the handle) and that I can quickly and
easily refurbish it so it is not junk, and for the cost of one machine
screw and some glue I have a clamp that does everything I expect for
next to nothing so I could buy 20 of them for the price of one or two
top dollar clamps.

Another exception, on the other end, is Festool stuff. Is it good, I
reckon it is, but at what a cost? Do I really need to spend $800 on a
Festool Router?

Lastly, if you don't own and use a HF nail gun, you probably shouldn't
argue with people that do own one.

tiredofspam wrote:
I paid $1.99 for that same clamp. A couple were no good and had to be
exchanged, but for a $1.99 I felt it was worth the risk.

Same here, except instead of exchanging the clamp, I took the handle
apart to see what broke.

One broke when the cheap ass plastic pin the trigger rotated on broke.
I drilled a hole through the handle and the trigger and put in a flat
head machine screw. Will not break now and works great.

Next, there is a cheesy plastic rocker that pushes the clamp along the
metal bar. This is not supported and will also break. I super glued it
back on, and piled up some glue behind the plastic tab to give it
additional support. This seems to have worked OK. I keep telling my
self to do this to my unbroken clamps to prevent it from breaking to
begin with... maybe tomorrow...

Both these issues are designed into the clamp and would have increased
the cost of the clamp by about two cents to do it right.
--
Jack
News Flash: Government Motors (GM) fines their top competitor $16 Mil.
http://jbstein.com

I have both porter cable and HF nailers and staplers. The porter cable
are good, but overpriced after using the HF. My HF have performed well.

I am glad I finally took the plunge on them. I kept buying the more
expensive nailers and staplers.

My only issue with the nailer is the thing works so well I'm turning
into a hack like Norm... It sure is easy to pin the **** out of
everything rather than screw it or clamp and glue it...

On 8/11/2010 2:08 PM, Jack Stein wrote:
Steve B wrote:

I'm a shopper. I don't buy cheap equipment, and then brag on just the
price. Cheap tools aren't good, and good tools aren't cheap. YMMV, and
sounds like it does. **** is ****, no matter the brand name.

I generally agree with you but there are a lot of exceptions. The HF air
nailer is one of them if you are a cabinet maker. Personally, I would
rather go to a bar and have a beer than nail the **** out of everything
like Norm does on TV. He pins everything after slopping on a bottle of
glue. I like to clamp things, using just enough glue. This means I don't
really NEED a pin nailer much and will not likely EVER wear out my HF
nailer, although it might rust some between uses.

Here is another exception, imo: http://tinyurl.com/2bul22m

This is a HF ratchet clamp. Is it junk, yep, but for a few bucks it's a
great deal, particularly since I know exactly what about it is junk,
(couple of plastic parts in the handle) and that I can quickly and
easily refurbish it so it is not junk, and for the cost of one machine
screw and some glue I have a clamp that does everything I expect for
next to nothing so I could buy 20 of them for the price of one or two
top dollar clamps.

Another exception, on the other end, is Festool stuff. Is it good, I
reckon it is, but at what a cost? Do I really need to spend $800 on a
Festool Router?

Lastly, if you don't own and use a HF nail gun, you probably shouldn't
argue with people that do own one.