I need some advice about a pneumatic brad nailer. I've never had one,
and they look like they would be a real help when the guys on TV use
them. Question #1: Is an eighteen gauge nailer what I want? I will be
building a bookcase/desk out of ¾” plywood (to be painted) and I'll be
using the nailer to attach trim around the top, and to put on the
backs of the bookcases (½” plywood). Not sure just yet if I will use
it for the shelves, but I'm pretty sure I won't – they will probably
be adjustable.

I really know nothing about brad sizes. If I don't buy any air nailer,
I will probably use 1 ½” brads to attach the backs (with glue of
course) but a pneumatic nailer would make the job a whole lot easier.
I think ¾” or 5/8” brads of any diameter would be good for the trim
but I question if 18 ga. x 1 ½” would be big enough. The piece will be
built-in, and screwed to the wall through the plywood back, which is
the reason for using the ½” plywood instead of ¼”.

Question #2: Some nailers also drive staples. What are staples good
for? Upholstery? Insulation?

..... Question #1: Is an eighteen gauge nailer what I want? I will be
building a bookcase/desk out of ¾” plywood (to be painted) and I'll be
using the nailer to attach trim around the top, and to put on the
backs of the bookcases (½” plywood).

For trim, you'd be far better off with a 23-gauge pin nailer. I made
the mistake at first of getting one that drove short pins and had to
get a Grex that took 1 3/8" pins. I've also used it to attach face
frames. (Of course you can use shorter pins with a larger capacity pin
nailer.)


Question #2: Some nailers also drive staples. What are staples good
for? Upholstery? Insulation?

I've also seen staplers used on plywood casework that is going to be
painted.

On Aug 8, 2:44*pm, Pistol_Pete wrote:
I need some advice about a pneumatic brad nailer. I've never had one,
and they look like they would be a real help when the guys on TV use
them. Question #1: Is an eighteen gauge nailer what I want?

I like mine, have used it for lots of trim (mainly baseboard and
carpentry
trim). For furniture, the smaller pin drivers are sometimes
preferred.

Question #2: Some nailers also drive staples. What are staples good
for? Upholstery? Insulation?

Good for MDF and other fiberboard products. It takes a lot of area
(like
the full crown of a staple) to hold in those weak materials without
tearing out.

"Pistol_Pete" wrote in message
...
I need some advice about a pneumatic brad nailer. I've never had one,
and they look like they would be a real help when the guys on TV use
them. Question #1: Is an eighteen gauge nailer what I want? I will be
building a bookcase/desk out of ¾” plywood (to be painted) and I'll be
using the nailer to attach trim around the top, and to put on the
backs of the bookcases (½” plywood). Not sure just yet if I will use
it for the shelves, but I'm pretty sure I won't – they will probably
be adjustable.

I really know nothing about brad sizes. If I don't buy any air nailer,
I will probably use 1 ½” brads to attach the backs (with glue of
course) but a pneumatic nailer would make the job a whole lot easier.
I think ¾” or 5/8” brads of any diameter would be good for the trim
but I question if 18 ga. x 1 ½” would be big enough. The piece will be
built-in, and screwed to the wall through the plywood back, which is
the reason for using the ½” plywood instead of ¼”.

Question #2: Some nailers also drive staples. What are staples good
for? Upholstery? Insulation?


A brad nailer will be good for the purposes you mentioned but no heavier of
a job. Keep in mind that smaller gauge fastenerers, "brads" are more
likely to deflect in the longer sizes, with harder woods and knots, and when
shooting at an angle. The longest I ever shoot out of my brad nailer is
1.125". I do however thave the luxury of having a finish nailer if I need
longer. I would not use a brad nailer for shelves, use it for light
applications.

Concerning your question of attaching the 1/2" plywood 1.5" IMHO is way more
than you need if you are going to glue also. If you shoot a 1" brad at a
slight angle and go the same degree angle in the opposite direction every
other nail you are going to lock every thing in nicely. Not much angle is
needed, 2 or 3 degrees.

Concerning your method of hanging,,,, I would advise 1/4" in set 3/4".
Immediately behind the 1/4" pywood at the top attach a 3/4" piece of wood
the width of the cabinet. Attach to the wall through that material. You do
not want to be hanging something to the wall by its pack panel alone.

There are few style staplers and they have more holding power than a brad
but are unsightly. Use them where they will not be shown. It is common to
attach backs with staples.

"Pistol_Pete" wrote in message
...
I need some advice about a pneumatic brad nailer. I've never had one,
and they look like they would be a real help when the guys on TV use
them. Question #1: Is an eighteen gauge nailer what I want? I will be
building a bookcase/desk out of ¾” plywood (to be painted) and I'll be
using the nailer to attach trim around the top, and to put on the
backs of the bookcases (½” plywood). Not sure just yet if I will use
it for the shelves, but I'm pretty sure I won't – they will probably
be adjustable.

I really know nothing about brad sizes. If I don't buy any air nailer,
I will probably use 1 ½” brads to attach the backs (with glue of
course) but a pneumatic nailer would make the job a whole lot easier.
I think ¾” or 5/8” brads of any diameter would be good for the trim
but I question if 18 ga. x 1 ½” would be big enough. The piece will be
built-in, and screwed to the wall through the plywood back, which is
the reason for using the ½” plywood instead of ¼”.

Question #2: Some nailers also drive staples. What are staples good
for? Upholstery? Insulation?

#1. A 23ga pin nailer will leave much smaller holes to fill in small trim
pieces. They are mainly to hold things in place "until the glue dries"
anyway.

#2. I bought a HF brad/stapler combo and took the POS back as it
constantly jammed. I bought separate brad and staple pneumatic
guns and haven't had a single jam with either. Staples are good for
thin plywood as they provide much better tear out resistance. They're
also good for fabric, cardboard, hardboard, screen, hardware cloth.
Art

Pistol_Pete wrote:

I need some advice about a pneumatic brad nailer. I've never had one,
and they look like they would be a real help when the guys on TV use
them. Question #1: Is an eighteen gauge nailer what I want? I will be
building a bookcase/desk out of ¾€� plywood (to be painted) and I'll be
using the nailer to attach trim around the top, and to put on the
backs of the bookcases (½€� plywood). Not sure just yet if I will use
it for the shelves, but I'm pretty sure I won't €“ they will probably
be adjustable.

I really know nothing about brad sizes. If I don't buy any air nailer,
I will probably use 1 ½€� brads to attach the backs (with glue of
course) but a pneumatic nailer would make the job a whole lot easier.
I think ¾€� or 5/8€� brads of any diameter would be good for the trim
but I question if 18 ga. x 1 ½€� would be big enough. The piece will be
built-in, and screwed to the wall through the plywood back, which is
the reason for using the ½€� plywood instead of ¼€�.

Question #2: Some nailers also drive staples. What are staples good
for? Upholstery? Insulation?

I like having the 16 and 18 gauge nailers. They sell these in combo's with
the Air Compressors. Porter Cable comes to mind. I do a lot of trim,
casement and cabinet work and I use these 2 nailers all the time, I'd be
lost without them. Time is Money! Thought about a stapler but haven't really
found an application where I'd use it. I don't do a lot with MDF most is ply
hardwood and Poplar.

--
www.rentmyhusband.biz

Get a 16 Ga nailer. If you want to put baseboards on other heavy trim on you
can shoot 2.5" nails with "T" heads and do a decent job and they won't fall
off like the smooth 18 Ga. toys.

They will also shoot 18 gauge brads ("L" shaped heads) for smaller jobs
until the glue dries.

I have about 6 of the 18 Ga. anilers. They give them a way with every
compressor and accessorie package. The 16 Ga units you have to pay for as
they actually work well.


"Pistol_Pete" wrote in message
...
I need some advice about a pneumatic brad nailer. I've never had one,
and they look like they would be a real help when the guys on TV use
them. Question #1: Is an eighteen gauge nailer what I want? I will be
building a bookcase/desk out of ¾” plywood (to be painted) and I'll be
using the nailer to attach trim around the top, and to put on the
backs of the bookcases (½” plywood). Not sure just yet if I will use
it for the shelves, but I'm pretty sure I won't – they will probably
be adjustable.

I really know nothing about brad sizes. If I don't buy any air nailer,
I will probably use 1 ½” brads to attach the backs (with glue of
course) but a pneumatic nailer would make the job a whole lot easier.
I think ¾” or 5/8” brads of any diameter would be good for the trim
but I question if 18 ga. x 1 ½” would be big enough. The piece will be
built-in, and screwed to the wall through the plywood back, which is
the reason for using the ½” plywood instead of ¼”.

Question #2: Some nailers also drive staples. What are staples good
for? Upholstery? Insulation?

In article ,
Pistol_Pete wrote:
I need some advice about a pneumatic brad nailer. I've never had one,
and they look like they would be a real help when the guys on TV use
them. Question #1: Is an eighteen gauge nailer what I want? I will be
building a bookcase/desk out of ¾” plywood (to be painted) and I'll be
using the nailer to attach trim around the top, and to put on the
backs of the bookcases (½” plywood). Not sure just yet if I will use
it for the shelves, but I'm pretty sure I won't – they will probably
be adjustable.

I really know nothing about brad sizes. If I don't buy any air nailer,
I will probably use 1 ½” brads to attach the backs (with glue of
course) but a pneumatic nailer would make the job a whole lot easier.
I think ¾” or 5/8” brads of any diameter would be good for the trim
but I question if 18 ga. x 1 ½” would be big enough. The piece will be
built-in, and screwed to the wall through the plywood back, which is
the reason for using the ½” plywood instead of ¼”.

Question #2: Some nailers also drive staples. What are staples good
for? Upholstery? Insulation?



2 things: The combination stapler/nailers generally leave a larger "dimple"
when used with brads than with the brad-only nailers. Not a big deal
if they are only used in non-visible areas but more of a PITA if you
are going to fill & finish over the brads.

Staples would be far superior to brads for attaching plywood backs to
bookcases or cabinets (assuming again that the backs will be out of
sight against a wall) It doesn't take much force for slight-head brads
to pull right through plywood. If you are gluing the backs on it
won't matter.


--
Better to be stuck up in a tree than tied to one.

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar.org

Pistol_Pete wrote:
I need some advice about a pneumatic brad nailer. I've never had one,
and they look like they would be a real help when the guys on TV use
them. Question #1: Is an eighteen gauge nailer what I want? I will be
building a bookcase/desk out of ¾” plywood (to be painted) and I'll be
using the nailer to attach trim around the top, and to put on the
backs of the bookcases (½” plywood). Not sure just yet if I will use
it for the shelves, but I'm pretty sure I won't – they will probably
be adjustable.

I really know nothing about brad sizes. If I don't buy any air nailer,
I will probably use 1 ½” brads to attach the backs (with glue of
course) but a pneumatic nailer would make the job a whole lot easier.
I think ¾” or 5/8” brads of any diameter would be good for the trim
but I question if 18 ga. x 1 ½” would be big enough. The piece will be
built-in, and screwed to the wall through the plywood back, which is
the reason for using the ½” plywood instead of ¼”.

Question #2: Some nailers also drive staples. What are staples good
for? Upholstery? Insulation?

Yeah, it's big enough. Once you start using it, you'll wonder how you did
without it. You can use it for installing baseboard trim and quarter-round.
The brads seem to have microscopic serrations to prevent them from coming
out - they are harder to remove than a plain nail.

Think about the head on a staple it is MUCH larger than the head on a
finishing nail or brad. You'd use it where you need a gigantic head for
cardboard, veneers, thin plywood, paper, cloth, etc.

"Pistol_Pete" wrote in message
...
I need some advice about a pneumatic brad nailer. I've never had one,
and they look like they would be a real help when the guys on TV use
them. Question #1: Is an eighteen gauge nailer what I want? I will be
building a bookcase/desk out of ¾” plywood (to be painted) and I'll be
using the nailer to attach trim around the top, and to put on the
backs of the bookcases (½” plywood). Not sure just yet if I will use
it for the shelves, but I'm pretty sure I won't – they will probably
be adjustable.

I really know nothing about brad sizes. If I don't buy any air nailer,
I will probably use 1 ½” brads to attach the backs (with glue of
course) but a pneumatic nailer would make the job a whole lot easier.
I think ¾” or 5/8” brads of any diameter would be good for the trim
but I question if 18 ga. x 1 ½” would be big enough. The piece will be
built-in, and screwed to the wall through the plywood back, which is
the reason for using the ½” plywood instead of ¼”.

Question #2: Some nailers also drive staples. What are staples good
for? Upholstery? Insulation?

It goes like this: Once you get one, you will find out that one does not go
all things. Depending on what other things you do, you will probably end up
with several. Each will do a specific duty, and do it to perfection, but
the other will either be overpowered or wimpy. It is difficult to advise
you what you need, because there are so many variables. You'll find out.
The good thing is that they are not very expensive at pawn shops and yard
sales, and even if you want to splurge at retail, they do such a good
quality of work that you will wonder how you ever got along without one.
You may have one that is only good for one very very specific task. That's
the difference between a hacker and a craftsman. Using just the right tool.

Steve

visit my blog at http://cabgbypasssurgery.com

Afterthought, after reading other posts: Buy a brand name like Porter
Cable, DeWalt, etc. Avoid HF and the like. In the long run, you will be
thankful.

Steve

visit my blog at http://cabgbypasssurgery.com

On Sun, 8 Aug 2010 14:44:30 -0700 (PDT), Pistol_Pete
wrote:

I need some advice about a pneumatic brad nailer. I've never had one,
and they look like they would be a real help when the guys on TV use
them. Question #1: Is an eighteen gauge nailer what I want? I will be
building a bookcase/desk out of ¾” plywood (to be painted) and I'll be
using the nailer to attach trim around the top, and to put on the
backs of the bookcases (½” plywood). Not sure just yet if I will use
it for the shelves, but I'm pretty sure I won't – they will probably
be adjustable.

I really know nothing about brad sizes. If I don't buy any air nailer,
I will probably use 1 ½” brads to attach the backs (with glue of
course) but a pneumatic nailer would make the job a whole lot easier.
I think ¾” or 5/8” brads of any diameter would be good for the trim
but I question if 18 ga. x 1 ½” would be big enough. The piece will be
built-in, and screwed to the wall through the plywood back, which is
the reason for using the ½” plywood instead of ¼”.

For tiny trim pieces, use a 23ga pin nailer. For everything else, the
18ga is fine. I'm not a fan of the thicker 15ga nailers because they
split trim and for heavy duty fastening, I like either headed nails or
screws (my preference.)

http://tinyurl.com/25sbsgx pinner $18
http://tinyurl.com/29bok9f stapler/nailer $20 (I've owned one for 8
troublefree years now and had a plain brad nailer for 5 before that.)


Question #2: Some nailers also drive staples. What are staples good
for? Upholstery? Insulation?

I use a 1/2" crown stapler for upholstery, and occasionally the 1/4"
crown for screening and metal fabric fastening.

http://tinyurl.com/26g79e4 1/2" crown $20 (5 troublefree years now)

On Sun, 8 Aug 2010 19:32:37 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:

Afterthought, after reading other posts: Buy a brand name like Porter
Cable, DeWalt, etc. Avoid HF and the like. In the long run, you will be
thankful.

See refutation in my other post. HF rules. No problems.

The only problem I've encountered with the nailers is that they dont'
want to work at under 55psi. I'm willing to bet that most other
brands won't, either, so it's not a real problem.

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 8 Aug 2010 19:32:37 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:

Afterthought, after reading other posts: Buy a brand name like Porter
Cable, DeWalt, etc. Avoid HF and the like. In the long run, you will be
thankful.

See refutation in my other post. HF rules. No problems.

The only problem I've encountered with the nailers is that they dont'
want to work at under 55psi. I'm willing to bet that most other
brands won't, either, so it's not a real problem.


If you like ****, buy it, and use it. I've got no problem with that. Some
day you'll work up to quality tools.

Steve

visit my blog at http://cabgbypasssurgery.com

On Aug 9, 12:35*am, "Steve B" wrote:
"Larry Jaques" wrote in message

...

On Sun, 8 Aug 2010 19:32:37 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:

Afterthought, after reading other posts: *Buy a brand name like Porter
Cable, DeWalt, etc. *Avoid HF and the like. *In the long run, you will be
thankful.

See refutation in my other post. *HF rules. *No problems.

The only problem I've encountered with the nailers is that they dont'
want to work at under 55psi. *I'm willing to bet that most other
brands won't, either, so it's not a real problem.

If you like ****, buy it, and use it. *I've got no problem with that. *Some
day you'll work up to quality tools.

Steve

visit my blog athttp://cabgbypasssurgery.com

Actually I have an HF Pin nailer and it works fine. I also have an off
brand 18ga. brad nailer and 1/4" crown stapler that I picked up on
clearance when Woodworkers Supply went out of business. The only
problem I have ever had with either of them is that the brads
sometimes jam when loading partial strips. Otherwise they have served
10+ years without a complaint.

Sometimes it isn't the tool, it is what you are using with it. I only
use Porter-Cable or Bostich brads, staples, or pins.

Allen

On 8/9/2010 12:35 AM, Steve B wrote:
"Larry wrote in message
...
On Sun, 8 Aug 2010 19:32:37 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:

Afterthought, after reading other posts: Buy a brand name like Porter
Cable, DeWalt, etc. Avoid HF and the like. In the long run, you will be
thankful.

See refutation in my other post. HF rules. No problems.

The only problem I've encountered with the nailers is that they dont'
want to work at under 55psi. I'm willing to bet that most other
brands won't, either, so it's not a real problem.


If you like ****, buy it, and use it. I've got no problem with that. Some
day you'll work up to quality tools.

If you're making your living with a nailer then perhaps there's some
noticeable difference between the expensive brands and Harbor Freight,
but for the average hobbyist or homeowner Harbor Freight air tools work
fine.

Do you actually own a Harbor Freight nailer or are you trying to justify
your own overspending?

"J. Clarke" wrote in message
...
On 8/9/2010 12:35 AM, Steve B wrote:
"Larry wrote in message
...
On Sun, 8 Aug 2010 19:32:37 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:

Afterthought, after reading other posts: Buy a brand name like Porter
Cable, DeWalt, etc. Avoid HF and the like. In the long run, you will
be
thankful.

See refutation in my other post. HF rules. No problems.

The only problem I've encountered with the nailers is that they dont'
want to work at under 55psi. I'm willing to bet that most other
brands won't, either, so it's not a real problem.


If you like ****, buy it, and use it. I've got no problem with that.
Some
day you'll work up to quality tools.

If you're making your living with a nailer then perhaps there's some
noticeable difference between the expensive brands and Harbor Freight, but
for the average hobbyist or homeowner Harbor Freight air tools work fine.

Do you actually own a Harbor Freight nailer or are you trying to justify
your own overspending?

I have several HF products, and they are marginal because they don't last as
long as brand names. They work, but they don't last, or the mechanisms
become sloppy. As for overspending, I have bought new or almost new brand
names at a local pawn shop for less than HF wants for theirs. Last thing I
bought was a like new Karcher 2650OH 6hp Honda power washer for $50 with 50'
of hose and five tips. HEAVY Rockwell 12" table saw $40. Craftsman 1.5 hp
router, table, and set of 40 bits, $60. Skil 2 wheel bench grinder $15.
All better than any HF comparable. BTW, I got a BRAND new PC pancake
compressor, and two nail guns, and a pin nailer, all NEW, for $125 for the
set, speaking of nailers.

Overspend? Who, me? Naw.

I did splurge yesterday for a Torx folding set for $8.

Steve

visit my blog at http://cabgbypasssurgery.com

I had one of these:

http://www.harborfreight.com/air-too...ler-66995.html

I dod not like it because for two reasons:

1. Periodic jams
2. No plastic nose protector.

Number 2 is the real reason why I own a bostich now. When installing door
or window casings, it would leave a slight divot on the molding from just
depressing the nose to enable the firing mechanism.

To me, that was unacceptable. It's not an issue for the backs of a cabinet,
but a big deal on interior trim.

-Steve


"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 8 Aug 2010 19:32:37 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:

Afterthought, after reading other posts: Buy a brand name like Porter
Cable, DeWalt, etc. Avoid HF and the like. In the long run, you will be
thankful.

See refutation in my other post. HF rules. No problems.

The only problem I've encountered with the nailers is that they dont'
want to work at under 55psi. I'm willing to bet that most other
brands won't, either, so it's not a real problem.

On Aug 8, 4:44*pm, Pistol_Pete wrote:
I need some advice about a pneumatic brad nailer. I've never had one,
and they look like they would be a real help when the guys on TV use
them. Question #1: Is an eighteen gauge nailer what I want? I will be
building a bookcase/desk out of ¾” plywood (to be painted) and I'll be
using the nailer to attach trim around the top, and to put on the
backs of the bookcases (½” plywood). Not sure just yet if I will use
it for the shelves, but I'm pretty sure I won't – they will probably
be adjustable.

I really know nothing about brad sizes. If I don't buy any air nailer,
I will probably use 1 ½” brads to attach the backs (with glue of
course) but a pneumatic nailer would make the job a whole lot easier.
I think ¾” or 5/8” brads of any diameter would be good for the trim
but I question if 18 ga. x 1 ½” would be big enough. The piece will be
built-in, and screwed to the wall through the plywood back, which is
the reason for using the ½” plywood instead of ¼”.

Question #2: Some nailers also drive staples. What are staples good
for? Upholstery? Insulation?

#1 I used an 18ga for several years before I bought a 15ga for
heavier work. The 18 is a good, all around nailer for day to day shop
work and holding things together until glue dries. Granted, 22ga is
better for trim work but the 18ga can handle slightly heavier jobs
too. If you are going to hang a lot of trim I would recommend a 15ga
nailer.

#2 Staples are a nice add-on but I would opt for a good 18# nailer and
then go for a cheapo stapler. In addition to my Porter Cable 18ga and
Bostich 15ga I sprung for a 18ga nailer/stapler a few years ago at
Harbor Freight. Not the same quality as the other two but it gets the
job done, proven durable; and it cost $20 at one of their entry
display sales.

RonB

On 8/9/2010 10:09 AM, Steve B wrote:
"J. wrote in message
...
On 8/9/2010 12:35 AM, Steve B wrote:
"Larry wrote in message
...
On Sun, 8 Aug 2010 19:32:37 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:

Afterthought, after reading other posts: Buy a brand name like Porter
Cable, DeWalt, etc. Avoid HF and the like. In the long run, you will
be
thankful.

See refutation in my other post. HF rules. No problems.

The only problem I've encountered with the nailers is that they dont'
want to work at under 55psi. I'm willing to bet that most other
brands won't, either, so it's not a real problem.


If you like ****, buy it, and use it. I've got no problem with that.
Some
day you'll work up to quality tools.

If you're making your living with a nailer then perhaps there's some
noticeable difference between the expensive brands and Harbor Freight, but
for the average hobbyist or homeowner Harbor Freight air tools work fine.

Do you actually own a Harbor Freight nailer or are you trying to justify
your own overspending?

I have several HF products, and they are marginal because they don't last as
long as brand names.

Is any of them an air nailer?

They work, but they don't last, or the mechanisms
become sloppy.

After how many cycles?

As for overspending, I have bought new or almost new brand
names at a local pawn shop for less than HF wants for theirs. Last thing I
bought was a like new Karcher 2650OH 6hp Honda power washer for $50 with 50'
of hose and five tips. HEAVY Rockwell 12" table saw $40. Craftsman 1.5 hp
router, table, and set of 40 bits, $60. Skil 2 wheel bench grinder $15.
All better than any HF comparable. BTW, I got a BRAND new PC pancake
compressor, and two nail guns, and a pin nailer, all NEW, for $125 for the
set, speaking of nailers.

Whether a Craftsman router is better than Harbor Freight is debatable.
But I don't see where you have the same tools from HF and another brand,
so on what basis do you compare?

Overspend? Who, me? Naw.

Yeah, clearly you're a cheapskate.

On 8/9/2010 10:20 AM, StephenM wrote:
I had one of these:

http://www.harborfreight.com/air-too...ler-66995.html

I dod not like it because for two reasons:

1. Periodic jams
2. No plastic nose protector.

Number 2 is the real reason why I own a bostich now. When installing door
or window casings, it would leave a slight divot on the molding from just
depressing the nose to enable the firing mechanism.

To me, that was unacceptable. It's not an issue for the backs of a cabinet,
but a big deal on interior trim.

Now, that is useful information. Rare in HF threads. Mine's never
jammed but I do get the divot. Never been a big deal for me because I
countersink the brad and putty over it and smoothing the putty gets the
divot too, but I can see where it would be a problem if you're doing a
clear finish.

-Steve


"Larry wrote in message
...
On Sun, 8 Aug 2010 19:32:37 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:

Afterthought, after reading other posts: Buy a brand name like Porter
Cable, DeWalt, etc. Avoid HF and the like. In the long run, you will be
thankful.

See refutation in my other post. HF rules. No problems.

The only problem I've encountered with the nailers is that they dont'
want to work at under 55psi. I'm willing to bet that most other
brands won't, either, so it's not a real problem.

On Aug 9, 9:22*am, RonB wrote:
On Aug 8, 4:44*pm, Pistol_Pete wrote:



I need some advice about a pneumatic brad nailer. I've never had one,
and they look like they would be a real help when the guys on TV use
them. Question #1: Is an eighteen gauge nailer what I want? I will be
building a bookcase/desk out of ¾” plywood (to be painted) and I'll be
using the nailer to attach trim around the top, and to put on the
backs of the bookcases (½” plywood). Not sure just yet if I will use
it for the shelves, but I'm pretty sure I won't – they will probably
be adjustable.

I really know nothing about brad sizes. If I don't buy any air nailer,
I will probably use 1 ½” brads to attach the backs (with glue of
course) but a pneumatic nailer would make the job a whole lot easier.
I think ¾” or 5/8” brads of any diameter would be good for the trim
but I question if 18 ga. x 1 ½” would be big enough. The piece will be
built-in, and screwed to the wall through the plywood back, which is
the reason for using the ½” plywood instead of ¼”.

Question #2: Some nailers also drive staples. What are staples good
for? Upholstery? Insulation?

#1 *I used an 18ga for several years before I bought a 15ga for
heavier work. *The 18 is a good, all around nailer for day to day shop
work and holding things together until glue dries. *Granted, 22ga is
better for trim work but the 18ga can handle slightly heavier jobs
too. *If you are going to hang a lot of trim I would recommend a 15ga
nailer.

#2 Staples are a nice add-on but I would opt for a good 18# nailer and
then go for a cheapo stapler. *In addition to my Porter Cable 18ga and
Bostich *15ga I sprung for a 18ga nailer/stapler a few years ago at
Harbor Freight. *Not the same quality as the other two but it gets the
job done, proven durable; and it cost $20 at one of their entry
display sales.

I just picked up their 23ga pin nailer for $18, with a coupon,
yesterday. I also have an HF wide crown stapler that really works
well. The only thing that concerned me is the lack of a safety. I
had to keep that in mind when I was crawling around in the attic
stapling insulation.

"Rich" wrote in message
...
Pistol_Pete wrote:

I need some advice about a pneumatic brad nailer. I've never had one,
and they look like they would be a real help when the guys on TV use
them. Question #1: Is an eighteen gauge nailer what I want? I will be
building a bookcase/desk out of ¾€� plywood (to be painted) and I'll be
using the nailer to attach trim around the top, and to put on the
backs of the bookcases (½€� plywood). Not sure just yet if I will use
it for the shelves, but I'm pretty sure I won't €“ they will probably
be adjustable.

I really know nothing about brad sizes. If I don't buy any air nailer,
I will probably use 1 ½€� brads to attach the backs (with glue of
course) but a pneumatic nailer would make the job a whole lot easier.
I think ¾€� or 5/8€� brads of any diameter would be good for the trim
but I question if 18 ga. x 1 ½€� would be big enough. The piece will be
built-in, and screwed to the wall through the plywood back, which is
the reason for using the ½€� plywood instead of ¼€�.

Question #2: Some nailers also drive staples. What are staples good
for? Upholstery? Insulation?

I like having the 16 and 18 gauge nailers. They sell these in combo's with
the Air Compressors. Porter Cable comes to mind. I do a lot of trim,
casement and cabinet work and I use these 2 nailers all the time, I'd be
lost without them. Time is Money! Thought about a stapler but haven't
really
found an application where I'd use it. I don't do a lot with MDF most is
ply
hardwood and Poplar.

Don't buy a combination. If you need both, buy separate guns.

Regarding air staplers, I bought one using 1/4" wide crown staples for
putting some 1/4" thick backs on a cabinet. Didn't think I would use it
much. Found it to be one of the handiest guns in the shop. The first one was
only up to about 1" long, I have added another that takes 1 1/2" staples. I
use either one for many jobs that I never thought I would. Stapling plywood
underlay down to the floor with long staples every 4" -- it goes real fast.
I even installed strapping on the ceiling by using long staples and firing
about 5 to 6 at every joist -- again it goes fast and saves my poor shoulder
from hammering upward while holding both nail and strapping at the same
time. To see if it would be strong enough, I lifted and held my 230 pound
body by one of the straps to see if they would hold -- they did. I have
found that when holding power is needed, staples out hold brads, so where
appearance is not needed, I always reach for the staple gun.

"Steve B" wrote in message
...

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 8 Aug 2010 19:32:37 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:

Afterthought, after reading other posts: Buy a brand name like Porter
Cable, DeWalt, etc. Avoid HF and the like. In the long run, you will be
thankful.

See refutation in my other post. HF rules. No problems.

The only problem I've encountered with the nailers is that they dont'
want to work at under 55psi. I'm willing to bet that most other
brands won't, either, so it's not a real problem.


If you like ****, buy it, and use it. I've got no problem with that.
Some day you'll work up to quality tools.


Actually you should buy what suites you. I world not buy Porter Cable or
DeWalt, I prefer the more refined and dependability of Senco, Bostitch, and
Grex although I also own Craftsman which has performed admirably every time
I have used it in the last 15 years and I do have the HF brand for
occasional use. Perhaps some day you will move up from PC or DeWalt. :~o

On Aug 9, 11:08*am, " wrote:
On Aug 9, 9:22*am, RonB wrote:





On Aug 8, 4:44*pm, Pistol_Pete wrote:

I need some advice about a pneumatic brad nailer. I've never had one,
and they look like they would be a real help when the guys on TV use
them. Question #1: Is an eighteen gauge nailer what I want? I will be
building a bookcase/desk out of ¾” plywood (to be painted) and I'll be
using the nailer to attach trim around the top, and to put on the
backs of the bookcases (½” plywood). Not sure just yet if I will use
it for the shelves, but I'm pretty sure I won't – they will probably
be adjustable.

I really know nothing about brad sizes. If I don't buy any air nailer,
I will probably use 1 ½” brads to attach the backs (with glue of
course) but a pneumatic nailer would make the job a whole lot easier.
I think ¾” or 5/8” brads of any diameter would be good for the trim
but I question if 18 ga. x 1 ½” would be big enough. The piece will be
built-in, and screwed to the wall through the plywood back, which is
the reason for using the ½” plywood instead of ¼”.

Question #2: Some nailers also drive staples. What are staples good
for? Upholstery? Insulation?

#1 *I used an 18ga for several years before I bought a 15ga for
heavier work. *The 18 is a good, all around nailer for day to day shop
work and holding things together until glue dries. *Granted, 22ga is
better for trim work but the 18ga can handle slightly heavier jobs
too. *If you are going to hang a lot of trim I would recommend a 15ga
nailer.

#2 Staples are a nice add-on but I would opt for a good 18# nailer and
then go for a cheapo stapler. *In addition to my Porter Cable 18ga and
Bostich *15ga I sprung for a 18ga nailer/stapler a few years ago at
Harbor Freight. *Not the same quality as the other two but it gets the
job done, proven durable; and it cost $20 at one of their entry
display sales.

I just picked up their 23ga pin nailer for $18, with a coupon,
yesterday. *I also have an HF wide crown stapler that really works
well. *The only thing that concerned me is the lack of a safety. *I
had to keep that in mind when I was crawling around in the attic
stapling insulation.

They only sting a little.........or so I'm told.

Now, that is useful information.

Thankyou.

Rare in HF threads. Mine's never
jammed but I do get the divot. Never been a big deal for me because I
countersink the brad and putty over it and smoothing the putty gets the
divot too...

Painted... but still a problem for me as the nail hole takes filler well
but a dent, not so much. Anyway about it, its more work to arive at a decent
final finish

-Steve

"Josepi" wrote in message
...
Get a 16 Ga nailer. If you want to put baseboards on other heavy trim on
you
can shoot 2.5" nails with "T" heads and do a decent job and they won't
fall
off like the smooth 18 Ga. toys.



Jeez , a finish nailer is a toy compared to a framing nailer, might as well
recomend a framing nailer cause it will shoot 3 inch nails in case you want
to build a house. For the light weight work that the OP mentioned, a finish
nail would probably be way too much and he would run the risk of splitting
the trim.

Buy the gun that is best suited for the job at hand, not for what you migh
need it for in the future.

On Aug 9, 11:51*am, "Leon" wrote:
"Josepi" wrote in message

...

Get a 16 Ga nailer. If you want to put baseboards on other heavy trim on
you
can shoot 2.5" nails with "T" heads and do a decent job and they won't
fall
off like the smooth 18 Ga. toys.

Jeez *, a finish nailer is a toy compared to a framing nailer, might as well
recomend a framing nailer cause it will shoot 3 inch nails in case you want
to build a house. *For the light weight work that the OP mentioned, a finish
nail would probably be way too much and he would run the risk of splitting
the trim.

Buy the gun that is best suited for the job at hand, not for what you migh
need it for in the future.

To do things right, you need a selection.

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...oy/Gunrack.jpg

"Robatoy" wrote in message
...
On Aug 9, 11:51 am, "Leon" wrote:
"Josepi" wrote in message

To do things right, you need a selection.

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...oy/Gunrack.jpg


Imaheadofyou LOL... I think a coiled roofing nailer is the only gun I
don't have. Pneumatic Framer, Finish, Brad, Pinner, Stapler, Palm.

On Aug 9, 12:35*pm, "Leon" wrote:
"Robatoy" wrote in message

...
On Aug 9, 11:51 am, "Leon" wrote:

"Josepi" wrote in message

To do things right, you need a selection.

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...oy/Gunrack.jpg

Imaheadofyou *LOL... *I think a coiled roofing nailer is the only gun I
don't have. *Pneumatic Framer, Finish, Brad, Pinner, Stapler, Palm.

Now you really have me beat. All I have now is a 16ga Paslode and
buying a Grex pinner.

"Leon" wrote in news:OI2dnS88AfOis_
:



Imaheadofyou LOL... I think a coiled roofing nailer is the only gun I
don't have. Pneumatic Framer, Finish, Brad, Pinner, Stapler, Palm.

Lowes has a kit that includes all but the pinner. Decent quality, but not
for day-in-day-out type work. They do jam occasionally, but it's not every
other nail like some of the other cheap ones.

Puckdropper
--
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.

Staples are good for lots of things. I used a 1/4" crown staples
on the backs of book cases. The 1/4" wood back into a 3/8" cutout.

Staples (Quality Stainless steel please!!) are used in roofing.
(non SS last a few years before letting go.)

I have a box nail gun - board - does up to 3 1/2" (IIRC) headed nail.
They are the coil nailers and are often used in roofing. (sheet works).

Martin

Martin H. Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
"Our Republic and the Press will Rise or Fall Together": Joseph Pulitzer
TSRA: Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal.
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Originator & Charter Founder
IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member. http://lufkinced.com/

On 8/8/2010 4:44 PM, Pistol_Pete wrote:
I need some advice about a pneumatic brad nailer. I've never had one,
and they look like they would be a real help when the guys on TV use
them. Question #1: Is an eighteen gauge nailer what I want? I will be
building a bookcase/desk out of ¾” plywood (to be painted) and I'll be
using the nailer to attach trim around the top, and to put on the
backs of the bookcases (½” plywood). Not sure just yet if I will use
it for the shelves, but I'm pretty sure I won't – they will probably
be adjustable.

I really know nothing about brad sizes. If I don't buy any air nailer,
I will probably use 1 ½” brads to attach the backs (with glue of
course) but a pneumatic nailer would make the job a whole lot easier.
I think ¾” or 5/8” brads of any diameter would be good for the trim
but I question if 18 ga. x 1 ½” would be big enough. The piece will be
built-in, and screwed to the wall through the plywood back, which is
the reason for using the ½” plywood instead of ¼”.

Question #2: Some nailers also drive staples. What are staples good
for? Upholstery? Insulation?

On Mon, 9 Aug 2010 08:49:49 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy
wrote:

On Aug 9, 11:08*am, " wrote:
On Aug 9, 9:22*am, RonB wrote:





On Aug 8, 4:44*pm, Pistol_Pete wrote:

I need some advice about a pneumatic brad nailer. I've never had one,
and they look like they would be a real help when the guys on TV use
them. Question #1: Is an eighteen gauge nailer what I want? I will be
building a bookcase/desk out of ¾” plywood (to be painted) and I'll be
using the nailer to attach trim around the top, and to put on the
backs of the bookcases (½” plywood). Not sure just yet if I will use
it for the shelves, but I'm pretty sure I won't – they will probably
be adjustable.

I really know nothing about brad sizes. If I don't buy any air nailer,
I will probably use 1 ½” brads to attach the backs (with glue of
course) but a pneumatic nailer would make the job a whole lot easier.
I think ¾” or 5/8” brads of any diameter would be good for the trim
but I question if 18 ga. x 1 ½” would be big enough. The piece will be
built-in, and screwed to the wall through the plywood back, which is
the reason for using the ½” plywood instead of ¼”.

Question #2: Some nailers also drive staples. What are staples good
for? Upholstery? Insulation?

#1 *I used an 18ga for several years before I bought a 15ga for
heavier work. *The 18 is a good, all around nailer for day to day shop
work and holding things together until glue dries. *Granted, 22ga is
better for trim work but the 18ga can handle slightly heavier jobs
too. *If you are going to hang a lot of trim I would recommend a 15ga
nailer.

#2 Staples are a nice add-on but I would opt for a good 18# nailer and
then go for a cheapo stapler. *In addition to my Porter Cable 18ga and
Bostich *15ga I sprung for a 18ga nailer/stapler a few years ago at
Harbor Freight. *Not the same quality as the other two but it gets the
job done, proven durable; and it cost $20 at one of their entry
display sales.

I just picked up their 23ga pin nailer for $18, with a coupon,
yesterday. *I also have an HF wide crown stapler that really works
well. *The only thing that concerned me is the lack of a safety. *I
had to keep that in mind when I was crawling around in the attic
stapling insulation.

They only sting a little.........or so I'm told.

You can test that theory and get back.

On 8/9/2010 11:09 AM, Robatoy wrote:


To do things right, you need a selection.

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...oy/Gunrack.jpg

Like your gun rack. May have to steal the idea.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)

On Mon, 09 Aug 2010 18:14:33 -0500, Swingman wrote:

On 8/9/2010 11:09 AM, Robatoy wrote:


To do things right, you need a selection.

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...oy/Gunrack.jpg

Like your gun rack. May have to steal the idea.

Yep, that's a keeper.

Puckdropper wrote:

Lowes has a kit that includes all but the pinner. Decent quality, but not
for day-in-day-out type work. They do jam occasionally, but it's not every
other nail like some of the other cheap ones.

Puckdropper

FWIW, bought the PowerShot manual stapler (Model 5700M) which is also
capable of using 9/16 and 5/18 finish nails. I've run over a box (1250
3/8" staples) through it, and it has not jammed once. That is good
because it appears there are 2 or 3 screws that need to be removed "in
the rare event" that it does jam. The string in quotes is from the
instructions. The stapler is $19.99 at Lowes but I saw it on sale
Menards recently for about $14.99. It did what I needed it to do (put
up some insulation).

Bill

On Mon, 09 Aug 2010 20:16:59 -0400, Bill wrote:

Puckdropper wrote:

Lowes has a kit that includes all but the pinner. Decent quality, but not
for day-in-day-out type work. They do jam occasionally, but it's not every
other nail like some of the other cheap ones.

Puckdropper

FWIW, bought the PowerShot manual stapler (Model 5700M) which is also
capable of using 9/16 and 5/18 finish nails. I've run over a box (1250
3/8" staples) through it, and it has not jammed once. That is good
because it appears there are 2 or 3 screws that need to be removed "in
the rare event" that it does jam. The string in quotes is from the
instructions. The stapler is $19.99 at Lowes but I saw it on sale
Menards recently for about $14.99. It did what I needed it to do (put
up some insulation).

I bought an Arrow CT50 LiIon stapler to do some insulation work. What a total
waste of money! It won't even stick a 1/2" staple into SYP. The safety makes
it totally useless. That was a Franklin down the tubes.

On Aug 9, 5:27*pm, "
wrote:

I bought an Arrow CT50 LiIon stapler to do some insulation work. *What a total
waste of money! *It won't even stick a 1/2" staple into SYP. *

So, get 1/4" staples. SYP is 'southern yellow pine', I trust?
In toughness, it comes in at 470 in-lbf, a little higher than red
oak at 440 in-lbf. Half inch staples in that wood isn't an easy
test.

"J. Clarke" wrote in message
...
On 8/9/2010 10:09 AM, Steve B wrote:
"J. wrote in message
...
On 8/9/2010 12:35 AM, Steve B wrote:
"Larry wrote in message
...
On Sun, 8 Aug 2010 19:32:37 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:

Afterthought, after reading other posts: Buy a brand name like
Porter
Cable, DeWalt, etc. Avoid HF and the like. In the long run, you
will
be
thankful.

See refutation in my other post. HF rules. No problems.

The only problem I've encountered with the nailers is that they dont'
want to work at under 55psi. I'm willing to bet that most other
brands won't, either, so it's not a real problem.


If you like ****, buy it, and use it. I've got no problem with that.
Some
day you'll work up to quality tools.

If you're making your living with a nailer then perhaps there's some
noticeable difference between the expensive brands and Harbor Freight,
but
for the average hobbyist or homeowner Harbor Freight air tools work
fine.

Do you actually own a Harbor Freight nailer or are you trying to justify
your own overspending?

I have several HF products, and they are marginal because they don't last
as
long as brand names.

Is any of them an air nailer?

They work, but they don't last, or the mechanisms
become sloppy.

After how many cycles?

As for overspending, I have bought new or almost new brand
names at a local pawn shop for less than HF wants for theirs. Last thing
I
bought was a like new Karcher 2650OH 6hp Honda power washer for $50 with
50'
of hose and five tips. HEAVY Rockwell 12" table saw $40. Craftsman 1.5
hp
router, table, and set of 40 bits, $60. Skil 2 wheel bench grinder $15.
All better than any HF comparable. BTW, I got a BRAND new PC pancake
compressor, and two nail guns, and a pin nailer, all NEW, for $125 for
the
set, speaking of nailers.

Whether a Craftsman router is better than Harbor Freight is debatable. But
I don't see where you have the same tools from HF and another brand, so on
what basis do you compare?

Overspend? Who, me? Naw.

Yeah, clearly you're a cheapskate.

I'm a shopper. I don't buy cheap equipment, and then brag on just the
price. Cheap tools aren't good, and good tools aren't cheap. YMMV, and
sounds like it does. **** is ****, no matter the brand name.

Steve

visit my blog at http://cabgbypasssurgery.com

wrote in message
...
On Mon, 09 Aug 2010 20:16:59 -0400, Bill wrote:

Puckdropper wrote:

Lowes has a kit that includes all but the pinner. Decent quality, but
not
for day-in-day-out type work. They do jam occasionally, but it's not
every
other nail like some of the other cheap ones.

Puckdropper

FWIW, bought the PowerShot manual stapler (Model 5700M) which is also
capable of using 9/16 and 5/18 finish nails. I've run over a box (1250
3/8" staples) through it, and it has not jammed once. That is good
because it appears there are 2 or 3 screws that need to be removed "in
the rare event" that it does jam. The string in quotes is from the
instructions. The stapler is $19.99 at Lowes but I saw it on sale
Menards recently for about $14.99. It did what I needed it to do (put
up some insulation).

I bought an Arrow CT50 LiIon stapler to do some insulation work. What a
total
waste of money! It won't even stick a 1/2" staple into SYP. The safety
makes
it totally useless. That was a Franklin down the tubes.

Bet it is as good as the corded one I have. It will staple cardboard to
cardboard. That's about it.