A quick and accurate method to square your miter gauge:

http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php

I know I have started threads in the past that describe this method,
but I finally put it in a video. If a picture speaks a thousand
words... Yeah, I know, there are dozens of methods for doing this
and that the 'old dogs' that use a square pushed against the blade and
the miter gauge will never change but...

Enjoy

---
www.garagewoodworks.com

GarageWoodworks wrote:
A quick and accurate method to square your miter gauge:

http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php

I know I have started threads in the past that describe this method,
but I finally put it in a video. If a picture speaks a thousand
words... Yeah, I know, there are dozens of methods for doing this
and that the 'old dogs' that use a square pushed against the blade and
the miter gauge will never change but...

Enjoy

---
www.garagewoodworks.com

On my table saw the miter gauge slot is perfectly square to the front
edge of the table. To square the gauge it's a simple matter of putting
the gauge up side down in the miter gauge, run it up tight to the
table's edge and lock it down.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

On Feb 21, 10:27*am, GarageWoodworks
wrote:
A quick and accurate method to square your miter gauge:

http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php

I know I have started threads in the past that describe this method,
but I finally put it in a video. *If a picture speaks a thousand
words... * Yeah, I know, there are dozens of methods for doing this
and that the 'old dogs' that use a square pushed against the blade and
the miter gauge will never change but...

Enjoy

---www.garagewoodworks.com

This presumes that the blade is aligned dead on with the
miter slot. It would also help to have an extension fence attached
to the miter gauge face, for the same reason that you use a
#8 to joint an edge instead of a block plane.

That said, I now have another use for my indicator and my
18" Starrett combo square.

On Feb 21, 11:09*am, Nova wrote:
GarageWoodworks wrote:
A quick and accurate method to square your miter gauge:

http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php

I know I have started threads in the past that describe this method,
but I finally put it in a video. *If a picture speaks a thousand
words... * Yeah, I know, there are dozens of methods for doing this
and that the 'old dogs' that use a square pushed against the blade and
the miter gauge will never change but...

Enjoy

---
www.garagewoodworks.com

On my table saw the miter gauge slot is perfectly square to the front
edge of the table. *To square the gauge it's a simple matter of putting
the gauge up side down in the miter gauge, run it up tight to the
table's edge and lock it down.

Try doing that with an Osborne EB3 (my bread and butter gauge), big
Incra or TS-Sled and report back to me. :^)


--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

On Feb 21, 11:34*am, Father Haskell wrote:
On Feb 21, 10:27*am, GarageWoodworks
wrote:

A quick and accurate method to square your miter gauge:

http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php

I know I have started threads in the past that describe this method,
but I finally put it in a video. *If a picture speaks a thousand
words... * Yeah, I know, there are dozens of methods for doing this
and that the 'old dogs' that use a square pushed against the blade and
the miter gauge will never change but...

Enjoy

---www.garagewoodworks.com

This presumes that the blade is aligned dead on with the
miter slot.

Yes. Mine is dead-on. I use a TS-aligner Jr for that.

*It would also help to have an extension fence attached
to the miter gauge face, for the same reason that you use a
#8 to joint an edge instead of a block plane.

I used that gauge for video purposes only. I use an Osborne EB3
normally.


That said, I now have another use for my indicator and my
18" Starrett combo square.

On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 08:34:20 -0800 (PST), Father Haskell
wrote:

This presumes that the blade is aligned dead on with the
miter slot.

That said, I've always wondered if there was any practical way to
align a blade to the miter slot if they were not parallel from the get
go? ~ Unless of course, there was some type of adjustment built into
the arbour shaft of the saw, something I've admittedly never
investigated.

The only two ways I can envision to fix such a problem would be to
shim the blade in the arbour or possibly to sand/grind the miter slot
so that it was parallel. Both these methods would be quite difficult
to accomplish properly in my opinion.

On Feb 21, 11:52*am, Upscale wrote:
On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 08:34:20 -0800 (PST), Father Haskell

wrote:
This presumes that the blade is aligned dead on with the
miter slot.

That said, I've always wondered if there was any practical way to
align a blade to the miter slot if they were not parallel from the get
go? ~ Unless of course, there was some type of adjustment built into
the arbour shaft of the saw, something I've admittedly never
investigated.

The only two ways I can envision to fix such a problem would be to
shim the blade in the arbour or possibly to sand/grind the miter slot
so that it was parallel. Both these methods would be quite difficult
to accomplish properly in my opinion.

You would have to loosen the table from underneath and wack with a
mallet until aligned. Re-tighten bolts.

Father Haskell wrote:
On Feb 21, 10:27 am, GarageWoodworks
wrote:
A quick and accurate method to square your miter gauge:

http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php

I know I have started threads in the past that describe this method,
but I finally put it in a video. If a picture speaks a thousand
words... Yeah, I know, there are dozens of methods for doing this
and that the 'old dogs' that use a square pushed against the blade
and the miter gauge will never change but...

Enjoy

---www.garagewoodworks.com

This presumes that the blade is aligned dead on with the
miter slot.

If it isn't you've got other problems.

It would also help to have an extension fence attached
to the miter gauge face, for the same reason that you use a
#8 to joint an edge instead of a block plane.

That said, I now have another use for my indicator and my
18" Starrett combo square.

GarageWoodworks wrote:
On Feb 21, 11:52 am, Upscale wrote:
On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 08:34:20 -0800 (PST), Father Haskell

wrote:
This presumes that the blade is aligned dead on with the
miter slot.

That said, I've always wondered if there was any practical way to
align a blade to the miter slot if they were not parallel from the
get go? ~ Unless of course, there was some type of adjustment built
into the arbour shaft of the saw, something I've admittedly never
investigated.

The only two ways I can envision to fix such a problem would be to
shim the blade in the arbour or possibly to sand/grind the miter slot
so that it was parallel. Both these methods would be quite difficult
to accomplish properly in my opinion.

You would have to loosen the table from underneath and wack with a
mallet until aligned. Re-tighten bolts.

Any saw that doesn't have _some_ means of aligning the blade is a piece of
crap.

On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 08:54:45 -0800 (PST), GarageWoodworks
wrote:

s parallel. Both these methods would be quite difficult
to accomplish properly in my opinion.

You would have to loosen the table from underneath and wack with a
mallet until aligned. Re-tighten bolts.

Good idea. Guess I wasn't thinking big enough when trying to think of
a solution.

In article , GarageWoodworks wrote:
A quick and accurate method to square your miter gauge:

http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php

I know I have started threads in the past that describe this method,
but I finally put it in a video. If a picture speaks a thousand
words... Yeah, I know, there are dozens of methods for doing this
and that the 'old dogs' that use a square pushed against the blade and
the miter gauge will never change but...

This 'old dog' certainly plans to change. Very slick. Thanks for posting that,
Brian.

On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 12:24:56 -0500, "J. Clarke"
wrote:
Any saw that doesn't have _some_ means of aligning the blade is a piece of
crap.

You're probably right. Fortunately, it's a problem I've never come
across.

On Feb 21, 12:39*pm, Upscale wrote:
On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 08:54:45 -0800 (PST), GarageWoodworks

wrote:
s parallel. Both these methods would be quite difficult
to accomplish properly in my opinion.

You would have to loosen the table from underneath and wack with a
mallet until aligned. *Re-tighten bolts.

Good idea. Guess I wasn't thinking big enough when trying to think of
a solution. *

If your trunion assembly is attached to the bottom of your table, that
method won't work.

On 2/21/10 10:34 AM, Father Haskell wrote:
This presumes that the blade is aligned dead on with the
miter slot.

If you one doesn't care enough about accuracy to square their blade to
their slot, then I doubt they're going to care enough to square their
miter gauge with a dial indicator.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 2/21/10 11:48 AM, Robatoy wrote:
On Feb 21, 12:39 pm, wrote:
On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 08:54:45 -0800 (PST), GarageWoodworks

wrote:
s parallel. Both these methods would be quite difficult
to accomplish properly in my opinion.

You would have to loosen the table from underneath and wack with a
mallet until aligned. Re-tighten bolts.

Good idea. Guess I wasn't thinking big enough when trying to think of
a solution.

If your trunion assembly is attached to the bottom of your table, that
method won't work.

http://www.in-lineindustries.com/saw_pals.html



--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Feb 21, 12:40*pm, (Doug Miller) wrote:
In article , GarageWoodworks wrote:

A quick and accurate method to square your miter gauge:

http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php

I know I have started threads in the past that describe this method,
but I finally put it in a video. *If a picture speaks a thousand
words... * Yeah, I know, there are dozens of methods for doing this
and that the 'old dogs' that use a square pushed against the blade and
the miter gauge will never change but...

This 'old dog' certainly plans to change. Very slick. Thanks for posting that,
Brian.

Cool. Definitely give it a try. I NEVER square using any other
method. And I often re-check for square in the middle of a
woodworking session. -It makes ya feel good.

On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 11:09:13 -0500, the infamous GarageWoodworks
wrote:
A quick and accurate method to square your miter gauge:

http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php

I know I have started threads in the past that describe this method,
but I finally put it in a video. If a picture speaks a thousand
words... Yeah, I know, there are dozens of methods for doing this
and that the 'old dogs' that use a square pushed against the blade and
the miter gauge will never change but...

Brian, glare and insufficient contrast on that vid make it so that I
cannot see the face or needle on the dial indicator, even in the inset
shots, even with my computer glasses on.

--
"Just think of the tragedy of teaching children not to doubt."
-- Clarence Darrow

On Feb 21, 11:54*am, GarageWoodworks
wrote:
On Feb 21, 11:52*am, Upscale wrote:








The table on my Unisaw was delivered with the miter slot parallel to
the blade and hasn't deviated from parallel in 30 years. But then I
don't use the saw top as an anvil. We ought to be looking for horses
not zebras.

Joe G

On 2/21/10 12:32 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
Brian, glare and insufficient contrast on that vid make it so that I
cannot see the face or needle on the dial indicator, even in the inset
shots, even with my computer glasses on.


Me, too. I just assumed it was doing what he said it was doing. :-)


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

We ought to be looking for horses
not zebras.

Joe G

Wow, ok..... never heard that one. Enlighten me, please.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 12:43:01 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

We ought to be looking for horses
not zebras.

Wow, ok..... never heard that one. Enlighten me, please.

I've never heard that expression either, but I'm guessing he's saying
that unaligned table saw blades to the table are few and far between.

On Feb 21, 1:32*pm, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 11:09:13 -0500, the infamous GarageWoodworks
wrote:

A quick and accurate method to square your miter gauge:

http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php

I know I have started threads in the past that describe this method,
but I finally put it in a video. *If a picture speaks a thousand
words... * Yeah, I know, there are dozens of methods for doing this
and that the 'old dogs' that use a square pushed against the blade and
the miter gauge will never change but...

Brian, glare and insufficient contrast on that vid make it so that I
cannot see the face or needle on the dial indicator, even in the inset
shots, even with my computer glasses on. *

--
"Just think of the tragedy of teaching children not to doubt."
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *-- Clarence Darrow

yes, that was a problem. It's not really glare, but the quality of
the camera. When I zoomed in tight the dial face was clear, but my
gauge and square was out of frame. I either needed a high def camera
or a second camera that was zoomed in. On my computer I CAN see the
dial when it is moving. Otherwise it was very difficult to see. I did
my best with what I have.

On 2/21/10 12:51 PM, Upscale wrote:
On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 12:43:01 -0600,
wrote:

We ought to be looking for horses
not zebras.

Wow, ok..... never heard that one. Enlighten me, please.

I've never heard that expression either, but I'm guessing he's saying
that unaligned table saw blades to the table are few and far between.

Maybe, but I'd like to hear it from the horse's mouth.

HAHAHAHAHA! I got a million of 'em.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

In article , -MIKE- wrote:
We ought to be looking for horses
not zebras.

Joe G

Wow, ok..... never heard that one. Enlighten me, please.

Full quote: "When you hear hoofbeats, think horses, not zebras." In other
words, when faced with a problem, look for common, simple explanations before
unusual or exotic ones.

On Feb 21, 2:14*pm, (Doug Miller) wrote:
In article , -MIKE- wrote:
We ought to be looking for horses
not zebras.

Joe G

Wow, ok..... never heard that one. * Enlighten me, please.

Full quote: "When you hear hoofbeats, think horses, not zebras." In other
words, when faced with a problem, look for common, simple explanations before
unusual or exotic ones.

Aka Occam's razor

On 2/21/10 1:14 PM, Doug Miller wrote:
In , wrote:
We ought to be looking for horses
not zebras.

Joe G

Wow, ok..... never heard that one. Enlighten me, please.

Full quote: "When you hear hoofbeats, think horses, not zebras." In other
words, when faced with a problem, look for common, simple explanations before
unusual or exotic ones.


Nice. Adopted for future use.

Wish I had that quip in my arsenal at my last job which involved
training students in troubleshooting audio/video equipment.

The was always the temptation to break into a machine or reach for test
equipment...
when 80 percent of the time, the darn thing just wasn't plugged in. :-)


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 2/21/2010 1:58 PM, GarageWoodworks wrote:
On Feb 21, 1:32 pm, Larry wrote:
On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 11:09:13 -0500, the infamous GarageWoodworks
wrote:

A quick and accurate method to square your miter gauge:

http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php

I know I have started threads in the past that describe this method,
but I finally put it in a video. If a picture speaks a thousand
words... Yeah, I know, there are dozens of methods for doing this
and that the 'old dogs' that use a square pushed against the blade and
the miter gauge will never change but...

Brian, glare and insufficient contrast on that vid make it so that I
cannot see the face or needle on the dial indicator, even in the inset
shots, even with my computer glasses on.

--
"Just think of the tragedy of teaching children not to doubt."
-- Clarence Darrow

yes, that was a problem. It's not really glare, but the quality of
the camera. When I zoomed in tight the dial face was clear, but my
gauge and square was out of frame. I either needed a high def camera
or a second camera that was zoomed in. On my computer I CAN see the
dial when it is moving. Otherwise it was very difficult to see. I did
my best with what I have.

Better camera won't help the particular problem. If you watch your
video you'll see that the dial on the TS-aligner off to the left is much
clearer than the dial indicator that you are using. Also if you look
closely at your hands you'll see a lot of white areas--what
photographers call "blown highlights". If your camera has exposure
control try adjusting it to darken the image a bit and I think it will
be clearer. Alternatively, try playing with the positions of your
lights to put the light where you want it and at the angle you want it.
If you haven't read
http://www.amazon.com/Light-Science-Introduction-Photographic-Lighting/dp/0240808193/ref=pd_sim_b_8
you might find it very worthwhile.

GarageWoodworks wrote:
On Feb 21, 11:09 am, Nova wrote:

snip

On my table saw the miter gauge slot is perfectly square to the front
edge of the table. To square the gauge it's a simple matter of putting
the gauge up side down in the miter gauge, run it up tight to the
table's edge and lock it down.


Try doing that with an Osborne EB3 (my bread and butter gauge), big
Incra or TS-Sled and report back to me. :^)


Does the Incra 2000 count? It's what I'm using.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

Father Haskell wrote:



This presumes that the blade is aligned dead on with the
miter slot. It would also help to have an extension fence attached
to the miter gauge face, for the same reason that you use a
#8 to joint an edge instead of a block plane.

That said, I now have another use for my indicator and my
18" Starrett combo square.

If the blade isn't exactly parallel to the miter slot the only result
would be a wider kerf.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

On Feb 21, 3:13*pm, Nova wrote:
GarageWoodworks wrote:
On Feb 21, 11:09 am, Nova wrote:

snip

On my table saw the miter gauge slot is perfectly square to the front
edge of the table. *To square the gauge it's a simple matter of putting
the gauge up side down in the miter gauge, run it up tight to the
table's edge and lock it down.

Try doing that with an Osborne EB3 (my bread and butter gauge), big
Incra or TS-Sled and report back to me. *:^)

Does the Incra 2000 count? *It's what I'm using.

Sure, but I envision it being a huge PITA. And not very accurate.


--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

On Feb 21, 3:02*pm, "J. Clarke" wrote:
On 2/21/2010 1:58 PM, GarageWoodworks wrote:



On Feb 21, 1:32 pm, Larry *wrote:
On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 11:09:13 -0500, the infamous GarageWoodworks
wrote:

A quick and accurate method to square your miter gauge:

http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php

I know I have started threads in the past that describe this method,
but I finally put it in a video. *If a picture speaks a thousand
words... * Yeah, I know, there are dozens of methods for doing this
and that the 'old dogs' that use a square pushed against the blade and
the miter gauge will never change but...

Brian, glare and insufficient contrast on that vid make it so that I
cannot see the face or needle on the dial indicator, even in the inset
shots, even with my computer glasses on. *

--
"Just think of the tragedy of teaching children not to doubt."
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * -- Clarence Darrow

yes, that was a problem. *It's not really glare, but the quality of
the camera. *When I zoomed in tight the dial face was clear, but my
gauge and square was out of frame. *I either needed a high def camera
or a second camera that was zoomed in. *On my computer I CAN see the
dial when it is moving. Otherwise it was very difficult to see. *I did
my best with what I have.

Better camera won't help the particular problem. *If you watch your
video you'll see that the dial on the TS-aligner off to the left is much
clearer than the dial indicator that you are using. *Also if you look
closely at your hands you'll see a lot of white areas--what
photographers call "blown highlights". *If your camera has exposure
control try adjusting it to darken the image a bit and I think it will
be clearer. *Alternatively, try playing with the positions of your
lights to put the light where you want it and at the angle you want it.
* If you haven't read
http://www.amazon.com/Light-Science-Introduction-Photographic-Lightin...
you might find it very worthwhile.

Ok. Thanks. Maybe I will re-shoot that segment.

On Feb 21, 11:54*am, GarageWoodworks
wrote:
On Feb 21, 11:52*am, Upscale wrote:





On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 08:34:20 -0800 (PST), Father Haskell

wrote:
This presumes that the blade is aligned dead on with the
miter slot.

That said, I've always wondered if there was any practical way to
align a blade to the miter slot if they were not parallel from the get
go? ~ Unless of course, there was some type of adjustment built into
the arbour shaft of the saw, something I've admittedly never
investigated.

The only two ways I can envision to fix such a problem would be to
shim the blade in the arbour or possibly to sand/grind the miter slot
so that it was parallel. Both these methods would be quite difficult
to accomplish properly in my opinion.

You would have to loosen the table from underneath and wack with a
mallet until aligned. *Re-tighten bolts.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

For a contractor's saw, loosen the back trunnion and
reposition as needed. PALS brackets are handy,
but not necessary. Helps to shim the trunnion (or
top, in the case of a cabinet saw) level, too, as long
as you have it loose, so bevel cuts are less likely
to burn at the heel end.

On Feb 21, 3:49*pm, GarageWoodworks
wrote:
On Feb 21, 3:02*pm, "J. Clarke" wrote:



On 2/21/2010 1:58 PM, GarageWoodworks wrote:

On Feb 21, 1:32 pm, Larry *wrote:
On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 11:09:13 -0500, the infamous GarageWoodworks
wrote:

A quick and accurate method to square your miter gauge:

http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php

I know I have started threads in the past that describe this method,
but I finally put it in a video. *If a picture speaks a thousand
words... * Yeah, I know, there are dozens of methods for doing this
and that the 'old dogs' that use a square pushed against the blade and
the miter gauge will never change but...

Brian, glare and insufficient contrast on that vid make it so that I
cannot see the face or needle on the dial indicator, even in the inset
shots, even with my computer glasses on. *

--
"Just think of the tragedy of teaching children not to doubt."
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * -- Clarence Darrow

yes, that was a problem. *It's not really glare, but the quality of
the camera. *When I zoomed in tight the dial face was clear, but my
gauge and square was out of frame. *I either needed a high def camera
or a second camera that was zoomed in. *On my computer I CAN see the
dial when it is moving. Otherwise it was very difficult to see. *I did
my best with what I have.

Better camera won't help the particular problem. *If you watch your
video you'll see that the dial on the TS-aligner off to the left is much
clearer than the dial indicator that you are using. *Also if you look
closely at your hands you'll see a lot of white areas--what
photographers call "blown highlights". *If your camera has exposure
control try adjusting it to darken the image a bit and I think it will
be clearer. *Alternatively, try playing with the positions of your
lights to put the light where you want it and at the angle you want it.
* If you haven't read
http://www.amazon.com/Light-Science-Introduction-Photographic-Lightin....
you might find it very worthwhile.

Ok. *Thanks. *Maybe I will re-shoot that segment.

I will have`to put the same shirt back on. ;^)

In article , Nova wrote:
Father Haskell wrote:



This presumes that the blade is aligned dead on with the
miter slot. It would also help to have an extension fence attached
to the miter gauge face, for the same reason that you use a
#8 to joint an edge instead of a block plane.

That said, I now have another use for my indicator and my
18" Starrett combo square.

If the blade isn't exactly parallel to the miter slot the only result
would be a wider kerf.

And tooth marks on the work.

On Feb 21, 3:17*pm, Nova wrote:
Father Haskell wrote:

This presumes that the blade is aligned dead on with the
miter slot. *It would also help to have an extension fence attached
to the miter gauge face, for the same reason that you use a
#8 to joint an edge instead of a block plane.

That said, I now have another use for my indicator and my
18" Starrett combo square.

If the blade isn't exactly parallel to the miter slot the only result
would be a wider kerf.

Burnt wood and wandering cuts.

On Feb 21, 1:43*pm, -MIKE- wrote:
We ought to be looking for horses
not zebras.

Joe G

Wow, ok..... never heard that one. * Enlighten me, please.

--

* -MIKE-

* "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
* * *--Elvin Jones *(1927-2004)
* --
*http://mikedrums.com
*
* ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

What I meant with the horses/zebra analogy was that the simpler method
of alignment, ie inverting the miter gauge in the miter slot and then
locking the gauge against the front edge of the table saw might do a
better job that the dial indicator method which is more elegant. The
more parts involved in the solution allows for a greater possibility
of error. (An example of Murphy's Law).
The reference to Occam's Razor is proof that many of this NGs
contributors are pretty smart.

Joe G

On Feb 21, 1:32*pm, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 11:09:13 -0500, the infamous GarageWoodworks
wrote:

A quick and accurate method to square your miter gauge:

http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php

I know I have started threads in the past that describe this method,
but I finally put it in a video. *If a picture speaks a thousand
words... * Yeah, I know, there are dozens of methods for doing this
and that the 'old dogs' that use a square pushed against the blade and
the miter gauge will never change but...

Brian, glare and insufficient contrast on that vid make it so that I
cannot see the face or needle on the dial indicator, even in the inset
shots, even with my computer glasses on. *

--
"Just think of the tragedy of teaching children not to doubt."
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *-- Clarence Darrow

I re-shot the problem scenes in the video. Please consider re-viewing
if you get a chance.

Thanks!

On 2/21/2010 1:48 PM, -MIKE- wrote:

The was always the temptation to break into a machine or reach for test
equipment...
when 80 percent of the time, the darn thing just wasn't plugged in. :-)

First rule of troubleshooting any electronic equipment: "Check the voltage."

Just before mixing the last and headline act of the night at a festival
sound gig many years ago, the pianist/band leader (Rice Graduate, EE
major to boot) couldn't get us a sound out of his rig so suddenly
started dismantling it onstage (being the famous inventor of the
particular piano pickup system he uses) while the now mostly drunk,
angry festival crowd was on the verge of rebellion, being that he was
also an hour late to the gig to start with.

I had initially tried to quiz him, over his monitor, if it was plugged
in (I was in a tower about 150' away), but was curtly cut off in mid
sentence.

Well, after that brief exchange from the little lounge lizard, he was on
his on as far as I was concerned ... and, as colorblind as I am, I never
saw such a red face, even from that distance, when he finally snapped to
the fact that it wasn't, with 2500 folks watching his every move for the
45 minutes it took him to figure it out.

Normally and notoriously, an ass to deal with, he was most humble for
the rest of the, much shortened, show ... go figure.

Sometimes there's justice in the world ...

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

GarageWoodworks wrote:

A quick and accurate method to square your miter gauge:

http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php

I know I have started threads in the past that describe this method,
but I finally put it in a video. If a picture speaks a thousand
words... Yeah, I know, there are dozens of methods for doing this
and that the 'old dogs' that use a square pushed against the blade and
the miter gauge will never change but...

Enjoy

---
www.garagewoodworks.com

Very clear. Very obvious as well. So why hadn't I thought of using a
method like that before? Thanks for the tip.


--

There is never a situation where having more rounds is a disadvantage

Rob Leatham

Father Haskell wrote:

On Feb 21, 10:27Â*am, GarageWoodworks
wrote:
A quick and accurate method to square your miter gauge:

http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php

I know I have started threads in the past that describe this method,
but I finally put it in a video. Â*If a picture speaks a thousand
words... Â* Yeah, I know, there are dozens of methods for doing this
and that the 'old dogs' that use a square pushed against the blade and
the miter gauge will never change but...

Enjoy

---www.garagewoodworks.com

This presumes that the blade is aligned dead on with the
miter slot.

That's what his TS Aligner Jr is for. :-)

More seriously, if the blade is not aligned dead on with the mitre slot,
you have a lot of other potential problems since one is setting up cuts
under that assumption. If the two planes are not parallel, then even
squaring up at the start of the cut is not going to be very helpful since
the remaining part of the cut will move the stock out of plane with the
sawblade.

It would also help to have an extension fence attached
to the miter gauge face, for the same reason that you use a
#8 to joint an edge instead of a block plane.

That said, I now have another use for my indicator and my
18" Starrett combo square.

--

There is never a situation where having more rounds is a disadvantage

Rob Leatham