A quick and accurate method to square your miter gauge:

http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php

I know I have started threads in the past that describe this method,
but I finally put it in a video. If a picture speaks a thousand
words... Yeah, I know, there are dozens of methods for doing this
and that the 'old dogs' that use a square pushed against the blade and
the miter gauge will never change but...

Enjoy

---
www.garagewoodworks.com

GarageWoodworks wrote:
A quick and accurate method to square your miter gauge:

http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php

I know I have started threads in the past that describe this method,
but I finally put it in a video. If a picture speaks a thousand
words... Yeah, I know, there are dozens of methods for doing this
and that the 'old dogs' that use a square pushed against the blade and
the miter gauge will never change but...

Enjoy

---
www.garagewoodworks.com

On my table saw the miter gauge slot is perfectly square to the front
edge of the table. To square the gauge it's a simple matter of putting
the gauge up side down in the miter gauge, run it up tight to the
table's edge and lock it down.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

On Feb 21, 11:09*am, Nova wrote:
GarageWoodworks wrote:
A quick and accurate method to square your miter gauge:

http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php

I know I have started threads in the past that describe this method,
but I finally put it in a video. *If a picture speaks a thousand
words... * Yeah, I know, there are dozens of methods for doing this
and that the 'old dogs' that use a square pushed against the blade and
the miter gauge will never change but...

Enjoy

---
www.garagewoodworks.com

On my table saw the miter gauge slot is perfectly square to the front
edge of the table. *To square the gauge it's a simple matter of putting
the gauge up side down in the miter gauge, run it up tight to the
table's edge and lock it down.

Try doing that with an Osborne EB3 (my bread and butter gauge), big
Incra or TS-Sled and report back to me. :^)


--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

GarageWoodworks wrote:
On Feb 21, 11:09 am, Nova wrote:

snip

On my table saw the miter gauge slot is perfectly square to the front
edge of the table. To square the gauge it's a simple matter of putting
the gauge up side down in the miter gauge, run it up tight to the
table's edge and lock it down.


Try doing that with an Osborne EB3 (my bread and butter gauge), big
Incra or TS-Sled and report back to me. :^)


Does the Incra 2000 count? It's what I'm using.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

On Feb 21, 3:13*pm, Nova wrote:
GarageWoodworks wrote:
On Feb 21, 11:09 am, Nova wrote:

snip

On my table saw the miter gauge slot is perfectly square to the front
edge of the table. *To square the gauge it's a simple matter of putting
the gauge up side down in the miter gauge, run it up tight to the
table's edge and lock it down.

Try doing that with an Osborne EB3 (my bread and butter gauge), big
Incra or TS-Sled and report back to me. *:^)

Does the Incra 2000 count? *It's what I'm using.

Sure, but I envision it being a huge PITA. And not very accurate.


--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 11:09:13 -0500, the infamous GarageWoodworks
wrote:
A quick and accurate method to square your miter gauge:

http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php

I know I have started threads in the past that describe this method,
but I finally put it in a video. If a picture speaks a thousand
words... Yeah, I know, there are dozens of methods for doing this
and that the 'old dogs' that use a square pushed against the blade and
the miter gauge will never change but...

Brian, glare and insufficient contrast on that vid make it so that I
cannot see the face or needle on the dial indicator, even in the inset
shots, even with my computer glasses on.

--
"Just think of the tragedy of teaching children not to doubt."
-- Clarence Darrow

On 2/21/10 12:32 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
Brian, glare and insufficient contrast on that vid make it so that I
cannot see the face or needle on the dial indicator, even in the inset
shots, even with my computer glasses on.


Me, too. I just assumed it was doing what he said it was doing. :-)


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Feb 21, 1:32*pm, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 11:09:13 -0500, the infamous GarageWoodworks
wrote:

A quick and accurate method to square your miter gauge:

http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php

I know I have started threads in the past that describe this method,
but I finally put it in a video. *If a picture speaks a thousand
words... * Yeah, I know, there are dozens of methods for doing this
and that the 'old dogs' that use a square pushed against the blade and
the miter gauge will never change but...

Brian, glare and insufficient contrast on that vid make it so that I
cannot see the face or needle on the dial indicator, even in the inset
shots, even with my computer glasses on. *

--
"Just think of the tragedy of teaching children not to doubt."
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *-- Clarence Darrow

yes, that was a problem. It's not really glare, but the quality of
the camera. When I zoomed in tight the dial face was clear, but my
gauge and square was out of frame. I either needed a high def camera
or a second camera that was zoomed in. On my computer I CAN see the
dial when it is moving. Otherwise it was very difficult to see. I did
my best with what I have.

On 2/21/2010 1:58 PM, GarageWoodworks wrote:
On Feb 21, 1:32 pm, Larry wrote:
On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 11:09:13 -0500, the infamous GarageWoodworks
wrote:

A quick and accurate method to square your miter gauge:

http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php

I know I have started threads in the past that describe this method,
but I finally put it in a video. If a picture speaks a thousand
words... Yeah, I know, there are dozens of methods for doing this
and that the 'old dogs' that use a square pushed against the blade and
the miter gauge will never change but...

Brian, glare and insufficient contrast on that vid make it so that I
cannot see the face or needle on the dial indicator, even in the inset
shots, even with my computer glasses on.

--
"Just think of the tragedy of teaching children not to doubt."
-- Clarence Darrow

yes, that was a problem. It's not really glare, but the quality of
the camera. When I zoomed in tight the dial face was clear, but my
gauge and square was out of frame. I either needed a high def camera
or a second camera that was zoomed in. On my computer I CAN see the
dial when it is moving. Otherwise it was very difficult to see. I did
my best with what I have.

Better camera won't help the particular problem. If you watch your
video you'll see that the dial on the TS-aligner off to the left is much
clearer than the dial indicator that you are using. Also if you look
closely at your hands you'll see a lot of white areas--what
photographers call "blown highlights". If your camera has exposure
control try adjusting it to darken the image a bit and I think it will
be clearer. Alternatively, try playing with the positions of your
lights to put the light where you want it and at the angle you want it.
If you haven't read
http://www.amazon.com/Light-Science-Introduction-Photographic-Lighting/dp/0240808193/ref=pd_sim_b_8
you might find it very worthwhile.

On Feb 21, 3:02*pm, "J. Clarke" wrote:
On 2/21/2010 1:58 PM, GarageWoodworks wrote:



On Feb 21, 1:32 pm, Larry *wrote:
On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 11:09:13 -0500, the infamous GarageWoodworks
wrote:

A quick and accurate method to square your miter gauge:

http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php

I know I have started threads in the past that describe this method,
but I finally put it in a video. *If a picture speaks a thousand
words... * Yeah, I know, there are dozens of methods for doing this
and that the 'old dogs' that use a square pushed against the blade and
the miter gauge will never change but...

Brian, glare and insufficient contrast on that vid make it so that I
cannot see the face or needle on the dial indicator, even in the inset
shots, even with my computer glasses on. *

--
"Just think of the tragedy of teaching children not to doubt."
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * -- Clarence Darrow

yes, that was a problem. *It's not really glare, but the quality of
the camera. *When I zoomed in tight the dial face was clear, but my
gauge and square was out of frame. *I either needed a high def camera
or a second camera that was zoomed in. *On my computer I CAN see the
dial when it is moving. Otherwise it was very difficult to see. *I did
my best with what I have.

Better camera won't help the particular problem. *If you watch your
video you'll see that the dial on the TS-aligner off to the left is much
clearer than the dial indicator that you are using. *Also if you look
closely at your hands you'll see a lot of white areas--what
photographers call "blown highlights". *If your camera has exposure
control try adjusting it to darken the image a bit and I think it will
be clearer. *Alternatively, try playing with the positions of your
lights to put the light where you want it and at the angle you want it.
* If you haven't read
http://www.amazon.com/Light-Science-Introduction-Photographic-Lightin...
you might find it very worthwhile.

Ok. Thanks. Maybe I will re-shoot that segment.

On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 15:02:18 -0500, the infamous "J. Clarke"
scrawled the following:

On 2/21/2010 1:58 PM, GarageWoodworks wrote:
On Feb 21, 1:32 pm, Larry wrote:
On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 11:09:13 -0500, the infamous GarageWoodworks
wrote:

A quick and accurate method to square your miter gauge:

http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php

I know I have started threads in the past that describe this method,
but I finally put it in a video. If a picture speaks a thousand
words... Yeah, I know, there are dozens of methods for doing this
and that the 'old dogs' that use a square pushed against the blade and
the miter gauge will never change but...

Brian, glare and insufficient contrast on that vid make it so that I
cannot see the face or needle on the dial indicator, even in the inset
shots, even with my computer glasses on.

--
"Just think of the tragedy of teaching children not to doubt."
-- Clarence Darrow

yes, that was a problem. It's not really glare, but the quality of
the camera. When I zoomed in tight the dial face was clear, but my
gauge and square was out of frame. I either needed a high def camera
or a second camera that was zoomed in. On my computer I CAN see the
dial when it is moving. Otherwise it was very difficult to see. I did
my best with what I have.

Better camera won't help the particular problem. If you watch your
video you'll see that the dial on the TS-aligner off to the left is much
clearer than the dial indicator that you are using. Also if you look
closely at your hands you'll see a lot of white areas--what
photographers call "blown highlights". If your camera has exposure
control try adjusting it to darken the image a bit and I think it will
be clearer. Alternatively, try playing with the positions of your
lights to put the light where you want it and at the angle you want it.

Simply lowering the light level would help, too. Unscrew a couple of
the fluor lamps, Bri.


If you haven't read
http://www.amazon.com/Light-Science-Introduction-Photographic-Lighting/dp/0240808193/ref=pd_sim_b_8
you might find it very worthwhile.

Ditto Exposure and Lighting (For Digital Photographers Only)
http://fwd4.me/GYN Lots of good info.

--
"Just think of the tragedy of teaching children not to doubt."
-- Clarence Darrow

On Feb 21, 1:32*pm, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 11:09:13 -0500, the infamous GarageWoodworks
wrote:

A quick and accurate method to square your miter gauge:

http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php

I know I have started threads in the past that describe this method,
but I finally put it in a video. *If a picture speaks a thousand
words... * Yeah, I know, there are dozens of methods for doing this
and that the 'old dogs' that use a square pushed against the blade and
the miter gauge will never change but...

Brian, glare and insufficient contrast on that vid make it so that I
cannot see the face or needle on the dial indicator, even in the inset
shots, even with my computer glasses on. *

--
"Just think of the tragedy of teaching children not to doubt."
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *-- Clarence Darrow

I re-shot the problem scenes in the video. Please consider re-viewing
if you get a chance.

Thanks!

On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 16:20:33 -0800 (PST), the infamous GarageWoodworks
scrawled the following:

On Feb 21, 1:32*pm, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 11:09:13 -0500, the infamous GarageWoodworks
wrote:

A quick and accurate method to square your miter gauge:

http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php

I know I have started threads in the past that describe this method,
but I finally put it in a video. *If a picture speaks a thousand
words... * Yeah, I know, there are dozens of methods for doing this
and that the 'old dogs' that use a square pushed against the blade and
the miter gauge will never change but...

Brian, glare and insufficient contrast on that vid make it so that I
cannot see the face or needle on the dial indicator, even in the inset
shots, even with my computer glasses on. *

--
"Just think of the tragedy of teaching children not to doubt."
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *-- Clarence Darrow

I re-shot the problem scenes in the video. Please consider re-viewing
if you get a chance.

Done. Ahh, much better. The dial is quite readable, but the picture
is still blown out (your hand has pure white spots on top, etc.)

Lowered light levels would help your $20 Chiwanese camera a bit. vbg


BTW, I've never even seen a thickarse square like that. Where'd you
find it? Is it aluminum or steel?

--
"Just think of the tragedy of teaching children not to doubt."
-- Clarence Darrow

On Feb 21, 11:05*pm, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 16:20:33 -0800 (PST), the infamous GarageWoodworks
scrawled the following:



On Feb 21, 1:32*pm, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 11:09:13 -0500, the infamous GarageWoodworks
wrote:

A quick and accurate method to square your miter gauge:

http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php

I know I have started threads in the past that describe this method,
but I finally put it in a video. *If a picture speaks a thousand
words... * Yeah, I know, there are dozens of methods for doing this
and that the 'old dogs' that use a square pushed against the blade and
the miter gauge will never change but...

Brian, glare and insufficient contrast on that vid make it so that I
cannot see the face or needle on the dial indicator, even in the inset
shots, even with my computer glasses on. *

--
"Just think of the tragedy of teaching children not to doubt."
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *-- Clarence Darrow

I re-shot the problem scenes in the video. *Please consider re-viewing
if you get a chance.

Done. *Ahh, much better. The dial is quite readable, but the picture
is still blown out (your hand has pure white spots on top, etc.)

Thanks. Looks like I need to read-up a little.


Lowered light levels would help your $20 Chiwanese camera a bit. vbg

BTW, I've never even seen a thickarse square like that. *Where'd you
find it? *Is it aluminum or steel?

Ed Bennett. Can't go wrong with Ed. High quality, awesome customer
service:

http://www.ts-aligner.com/accessories.htm



--
"Just think of the tragedy of teaching children not to doubt."
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *-- Clarence Darrow

On Feb 21, 11:05*pm, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 16:20:33 -0800 (PST), the infamous GarageWoodworks
scrawled the following:



On Feb 21, 1:32*pm, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 11:09:13 -0500, the infamous GarageWoodworks
wrote:

A quick and accurate method to square your miter gauge:

http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php

I know I have started threads in the past that describe this method,
but I finally put it in a video. *If a picture speaks a thousand
words... * Yeah, I know, there are dozens of methods for doing this
and that the 'old dogs' that use a square pushed against the blade and
the miter gauge will never change but...

Brian, glare and insufficient contrast on that vid make it so that I
cannot see the face or needle on the dial indicator, even in the inset
shots, even with my computer glasses on. *

--
"Just think of the tragedy of teaching children not to doubt."
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *-- Clarence Darrow

I re-shot the problem scenes in the video. *Please consider re-viewing
if you get a chance.

Done. *Ahh, much better. The dial is quite readable, but the picture
is still blown out (your hand has pure white spots on top, etc.)

Lowered light levels would help your $20 Chiwanese camera a bit. vbg

BTW, I've never even seen a thickarse square like that. *Where'd you
find it? *Is it aluminum or steel?


Forgot to mention that it's steel.

On Feb 21, 10:27*am, GarageWoodworks
wrote:
A quick and accurate method to square your miter gauge:

http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php

I know I have started threads in the past that describe this method,
but I finally put it in a video. *If a picture speaks a thousand
words... * Yeah, I know, there are dozens of methods for doing this
and that the 'old dogs' that use a square pushed against the blade and
the miter gauge will never change but...

Enjoy

---www.garagewoodworks.com

This presumes that the blade is aligned dead on with the
miter slot. It would also help to have an extension fence attached
to the miter gauge face, for the same reason that you use a
#8 to joint an edge instead of a block plane.

That said, I now have another use for my indicator and my
18" Starrett combo square.

On Feb 21, 11:34*am, Father Haskell wrote:
On Feb 21, 10:27*am, GarageWoodworks
wrote:

A quick and accurate method to square your miter gauge:

http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php

I know I have started threads in the past that describe this method,
but I finally put it in a video. *If a picture speaks a thousand
words... * Yeah, I know, there are dozens of methods for doing this
and that the 'old dogs' that use a square pushed against the blade and
the miter gauge will never change but...

Enjoy

---www.garagewoodworks.com

This presumes that the blade is aligned dead on with the
miter slot.

Yes. Mine is dead-on. I use a TS-aligner Jr for that.

*It would also help to have an extension fence attached
to the miter gauge face, for the same reason that you use a
#8 to joint an edge instead of a block plane.

I used that gauge for video purposes only. I use an Osborne EB3
normally.


That said, I now have another use for my indicator and my
18" Starrett combo square.

On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 08:34:20 -0800 (PST), Father Haskell
wrote:

This presumes that the blade is aligned dead on with the
miter slot.

That said, I've always wondered if there was any practical way to
align a blade to the miter slot if they were not parallel from the get
go? ~ Unless of course, there was some type of adjustment built into
the arbour shaft of the saw, something I've admittedly never
investigated.

The only two ways I can envision to fix such a problem would be to
shim the blade in the arbour or possibly to sand/grind the miter slot
so that it was parallel. Both these methods would be quite difficult
to accomplish properly in my opinion.

On Feb 21, 11:52*am, Upscale wrote:
On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 08:34:20 -0800 (PST), Father Haskell

wrote:
This presumes that the blade is aligned dead on with the
miter slot.

That said, I've always wondered if there was any practical way to
align a blade to the miter slot if they were not parallel from the get
go? ~ Unless of course, there was some type of adjustment built into
the arbour shaft of the saw, something I've admittedly never
investigated.

The only two ways I can envision to fix such a problem would be to
shim the blade in the arbour or possibly to sand/grind the miter slot
so that it was parallel. Both these methods would be quite difficult
to accomplish properly in my opinion.

You would have to loosen the table from underneath and wack with a
mallet until aligned. Re-tighten bolts.

GarageWoodworks wrote:
On Feb 21, 11:52 am, Upscale wrote:
On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 08:34:20 -0800 (PST), Father Haskell

wrote:
This presumes that the blade is aligned dead on with the
miter slot.

That said, I've always wondered if there was any practical way to
align a blade to the miter slot if they were not parallel from the
get go? ~ Unless of course, there was some type of adjustment built
into the arbour shaft of the saw, something I've admittedly never
investigated.

The only two ways I can envision to fix such a problem would be to
shim the blade in the arbour or possibly to sand/grind the miter slot
so that it was parallel. Both these methods would be quite difficult
to accomplish properly in my opinion.

You would have to loosen the table from underneath and wack with a
mallet until aligned. Re-tighten bolts.

Any saw that doesn't have _some_ means of aligning the blade is a piece of
crap.

On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 12:24:56 -0500, "J. Clarke"
wrote:
Any saw that doesn't have _some_ means of aligning the blade is a piece of
crap.

You're probably right. Fortunately, it's a problem I've never come
across.

On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 08:54:45 -0800 (PST), GarageWoodworks
wrote:

s parallel. Both these methods would be quite difficult
to accomplish properly in my opinion.

You would have to loosen the table from underneath and wack with a
mallet until aligned. Re-tighten bolts.

Good idea. Guess I wasn't thinking big enough when trying to think of
a solution.

On Feb 21, 12:39*pm, Upscale wrote:
On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 08:54:45 -0800 (PST), GarageWoodworks

wrote:
s parallel. Both these methods would be quite difficult
to accomplish properly in my opinion.

You would have to loosen the table from underneath and wack with a
mallet until aligned. *Re-tighten bolts.

Good idea. Guess I wasn't thinking big enough when trying to think of
a solution. *

If your trunion assembly is attached to the bottom of your table, that
method won't work.

On Feb 21, 11:54*am, GarageWoodworks
wrote:
On Feb 21, 11:52*am, Upscale wrote:








The table on my Unisaw was delivered with the miter slot parallel to
the blade and hasn't deviated from parallel in 30 years. But then I
don't use the saw top as an anvil. We ought to be looking for horses
not zebras.

Joe G

We ought to be looking for horses
not zebras.

Joe G

Wow, ok..... never heard that one. Enlighten me, please.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Feb 21, 11:54*am, GarageWoodworks
wrote:
On Feb 21, 11:52*am, Upscale wrote:





On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 08:34:20 -0800 (PST), Father Haskell

wrote:
This presumes that the blade is aligned dead on with the
miter slot.

That said, I've always wondered if there was any practical way to
align a blade to the miter slot if they were not parallel from the get
go? ~ Unless of course, there was some type of adjustment built into
the arbour shaft of the saw, something I've admittedly never
investigated.

The only two ways I can envision to fix such a problem would be to
shim the blade in the arbour or possibly to sand/grind the miter slot
so that it was parallel. Both these methods would be quite difficult
to accomplish properly in my opinion.

You would have to loosen the table from underneath and wack with a
mallet until aligned. *Re-tighten bolts.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

For a contractor's saw, loosen the back trunnion and
reposition as needed. PALS brackets are handy,
but not necessary. Helps to shim the trunnion (or
top, in the case of a cabinet saw) level, too, as long
as you have it loose, so bevel cuts are less likely
to burn at the heel end.

GarageWoodworks writes:

On Feb 21, 11:52Â*am, Upscale wrote:
On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 08:34:20 -0800 (PST), Father Haskell

wrote:
This presumes that the blade is aligned dead on with the
miter slot.

That said, I've always wondered if there was any practical way to
align a blade to the miter slot if they were not parallel from the get
go? ~ Unless of course, there was some type of adjustment built into
the arbour shaft of the saw, something I've admittedly never
investigated.

The only two ways I can envision to fix such a problem would be to
shim the blade in the arbour or possibly to sand/grind the miter slot
so that it was parallel. Both these methods would be quite difficult
to accomplish properly in my opinion.

You would have to loosen the table from underneath and wack with a
mallet until aligned. Re-tighten bolts.

Or use a PALS which allows you to precisely move the trunion bolts via a
pair of allen screws rather than repeatedly wacking with a mallet.

Very useful in my experience. I was able to adjust my 20 year old
Craftsman table saw to within 1 thousandth that way...

"blueman" wrote in message
...


Or use a PALS which allows you to precisely move the trunion bolts via a
pair of allen screws rather than repeatedly wacking with a mallet.

Very useful in my experience. I was able to adjust my 20 year old
Craftsman table saw to within 1 thousandth that way...

I got my Craftsman within 1 thousandth too - just by "tunking it". The
whole story behind that is that I was attempting to get it within 4-5
thousandths, and by pure chance, got it within 1. Of course, I locked it
down right then and there. If I ever undertake that effort again - I'll buy
the PALS in advance.

--

-Mike-

Father Haskell wrote:
On Feb 21, 10:27 am, GarageWoodworks
wrote:
A quick and accurate method to square your miter gauge:

http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php

I know I have started threads in the past that describe this method,
but I finally put it in a video. If a picture speaks a thousand
words... Yeah, I know, there are dozens of methods for doing this
and that the 'old dogs' that use a square pushed against the blade
and the miter gauge will never change but...

Enjoy

---www.garagewoodworks.com

This presumes that the blade is aligned dead on with the
miter slot.

If it isn't you've got other problems.

It would also help to have an extension fence attached
to the miter gauge face, for the same reason that you use a
#8 to joint an edge instead of a block plane.

That said, I now have another use for my indicator and my
18" Starrett combo square.

On 2/21/10 10:34 AM, Father Haskell wrote:
This presumes that the blade is aligned dead on with the
miter slot.

If you one doesn't care enough about accuracy to square their blade to
their slot, then I doubt they're going to care enough to square their
miter gauge with a dial indicator.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Father Haskell wrote:



This presumes that the blade is aligned dead on with the
miter slot. It would also help to have an extension fence attached
to the miter gauge face, for the same reason that you use a
#8 to joint an edge instead of a block plane.

That said, I now have another use for my indicator and my
18" Starrett combo square.

If the blade isn't exactly parallel to the miter slot the only result
would be a wider kerf.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

In article , Nova wrote:
Father Haskell wrote:



This presumes that the blade is aligned dead on with the
miter slot. It would also help to have an extension fence attached
to the miter gauge face, for the same reason that you use a
#8 to joint an edge instead of a block plane.

That said, I now have another use for my indicator and my
18" Starrett combo square.

If the blade isn't exactly parallel to the miter slot the only result
would be a wider kerf.

And tooth marks on the work.

On 2/21/2010 2:58 PM, Doug Miller wrote:
In , wrote:
Father Haskell wrote:



This presumes that the blade is aligned dead on with the
miter slot. It would also help to have an extension fence attached
to the miter gauge face, for the same reason that you use a
#8 to joint an edge instead of a block plane.

That said, I now have another use for my indicator and my
18" Starrett combo square.

If the blade isn't exactly parallel to the miter slot the only result
would be a wider kerf.

And tooth marks on the work.

And a kerf that's *curved* according to the amount of skew.

--
"Even if your wife is happy but you're unhappy, you're still happier
than you'd be if you were happy and your wife was unhappy." - Red Green
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

Subject

A 12" x 12" x 3/4" piece of MDF with a 3/8" x 3/4" white oak runner
attached at right angles (Or parallel if you prefer) to the edges.

Drop runner into slot, adjust miter gage face to 12 x 12.

Get a beer and admire your work.

Lew
..

Steve Turner wrote:

On 2/21/2010 2:58 PM, Doug Miller wrote:

In ,
wrote:

Father Haskell wrote:



This presumes that the blade is aligned dead on with the
miter slot. It would also help to have an extension fence attached
to the miter gauge face, for the same reason that you use a
#8 to joint an edge instead of a block plane.

That said, I now have another use for my indicator and my
18" Starrett combo square.


If the blade isn't exactly parallel to the miter slot the only result
would be a wider kerf.


And tooth marks on the work.


And a kerf that's *curved* according to the amount of skew.


If the blade isn't parallel to the miter slot the anomalies mentioned
will occur regardless of the miter gauge accuracy.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

On Feb 21, 3:17*pm, Nova wrote:
Father Haskell wrote:

This presumes that the blade is aligned dead on with the
miter slot. *It would also help to have an extension fence attached
to the miter gauge face, for the same reason that you use a
#8 to joint an edge instead of a block plane.

That said, I now have another use for my indicator and my
18" Starrett combo square.

If the blade isn't exactly parallel to the miter slot the only result
would be a wider kerf.

Burnt wood and wandering cuts.

Father Haskell wrote:

On Feb 21, 10:27Â*am, GarageWoodworks
wrote:
A quick and accurate method to square your miter gauge:

http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php

I know I have started threads in the past that describe this method,
but I finally put it in a video. Â*If a picture speaks a thousand
words... Â* Yeah, I know, there are dozens of methods for doing this
and that the 'old dogs' that use a square pushed against the blade and
the miter gauge will never change but...

Enjoy

---www.garagewoodworks.com

This presumes that the blade is aligned dead on with the
miter slot.

That's what his TS Aligner Jr is for. :-)

More seriously, if the blade is not aligned dead on with the mitre slot,
you have a lot of other potential problems since one is setting up cuts
under that assumption. If the two planes are not parallel, then even
squaring up at the start of the cut is not going to be very helpful since
the remaining part of the cut will move the stock out of plane with the
sawblade.

It would also help to have an extension fence attached
to the miter gauge face, for the same reason that you use a
#8 to joint an edge instead of a block plane.

That said, I now have another use for my indicator and my
18" Starrett combo square.

--

There is never a situation where having more rounds is a disadvantage

Rob Leatham

In article , GarageWoodworks wrote:
A quick and accurate method to square your miter gauge:

http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php

I know I have started threads in the past that describe this method,
but I finally put it in a video. If a picture speaks a thousand
words... Yeah, I know, there are dozens of methods for doing this
and that the 'old dogs' that use a square pushed against the blade and
the miter gauge will never change but...

This 'old dog' certainly plans to change. Very slick. Thanks for posting that,
Brian.

On Feb 21, 12:40*pm, (Doug Miller) wrote:
In article , GarageWoodworks wrote:

A quick and accurate method to square your miter gauge:

http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php

I know I have started threads in the past that describe this method,
but I finally put it in a video. *If a picture speaks a thousand
words... * Yeah, I know, there are dozens of methods for doing this
and that the 'old dogs' that use a square pushed against the blade and
the miter gauge will never change but...

This 'old dog' certainly plans to change. Very slick. Thanks for posting that,
Brian.

Cool. Definitely give it a try. I NEVER square using any other
method. And I often re-check for square in the middle of a
woodworking session. -It makes ya feel good.

GarageWoodworks wrote:

A quick and accurate method to square your miter gauge:

http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php

I know I have started threads in the past that describe this method,
but I finally put it in a video. If a picture speaks a thousand
words... Yeah, I know, there are dozens of methods for doing this
and that the 'old dogs' that use a square pushed against the blade and
the miter gauge will never change but...

Enjoy

---
www.garagewoodworks.com

Very clear. Very obvious as well. So why hadn't I thought of using a
method like that before? Thanks for the tip.


--

There is never a situation where having more rounds is a disadvantage

Rob Leatham