This started out in the thread about the Osborne EB3, but I'm in the
market for one myself, having found the Incra 1000SE wanting. What
I'm looking for is one that has a one piece bar with a flip-stop
that'll go out to at least 36" or so, that works with a sacrificial
fence to prevent tear-out, and is "very" accurate on miters (with a
guide bar that adjusts for zero slop). The Kreg looks good, but it
only goes out to 24". I'd really like some extra length. (heh)

JP

On Apr 16, 6:12 pm, Jay Pique wrote:
This started out in the thread about the Osborne EB3, but I'm in the
market for one myself, having found the Incra 1000SE wanting. What
I'm looking for is one that has a one piece bar with a flip-stop
that'll go out to at least 36" or so, that works with a sacrificial
fence to prevent tear-out, and is "very" accurate on miters (with a
guide bar that adjusts for zero slop). The Kreg looks good, but it
only goes out to 24". I'd really like some extra length. (heh)

JP

Hi Jay I have the Incra 1000SE and you can remove the flip- stop and
install in the other channel to give you the room for a 3/4" backer
board and they make 36, 48, & 52" one piece fence's

Jay Pique writes:

This started out in the thread about the Osborne EB3, but I'm in the
market for one myself, having found the Incra 1000SE wanting. What
I'm looking for is one that has a one piece bar with a flip-stop
that'll go out to at least 36" or so, that works with a sacrificial
fence to prevent tear-out, and is "very" accurate on miters (with a
guide bar that adjusts for zero slop). The Kreg looks good, but it
only goes out to 24". I'd really like some extra length. (heh)

Here's one that extends to 46" ($239)

http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/i...OD&ProdID=1797

You can put a sacrificial board on the Kreg to get extra wood. However, the
flip stop will no longer work. The original track by Duginski (before
Kreg) had a flip stop that works over the sac wood. But it wasn't as solid.
I'm not sure if you can get the old track any more.
But here's something that is close, and you can extend it.
http://www.woodhaven.com/DoItYourself.aspx


I'm almost sure you can connect it to the Kreg.
Woodhaven sells a Miter Gauge that is very similar to the Kreg.
http://www.woodhaven.com/detail.aspx?ID=1641
They sell a deluxe kit as well, for $240.

I think I got my Kreg on sale for $100 less.

You could probably make a flip stop out of wood.
Woodhaven has a flip stop that should work over a sac wood piece.

The Kreg allows precise tuning. (Vernier does 0.1 degree, and you can
tweak it further). I also like the solid stops for common angles.
But you are not forced to use these stops.
The Woodhaven doesn't have the vernier.

"Jay Pique" wrote in message
oups.com...
This started out in the thread about the Osborne EB3, but I'm in the
market for one myself, having found the Incra 1000SE wanting. What
I'm looking for is one that has a one piece bar with a flip-stop
that'll go out to at least 36" or so, that works with a sacrificial
fence to prevent tear-out, and is "very" accurate on miters (with a
guide bar that adjusts for zero slop). The Kreg looks good, but it
only goes out to 24". I'd really like some extra length. (heh)

JP


You can get a 4' track for the Kreg.

http://kregtool.com/products/ka/prod...?PRODUCT_ID=49

Jay Pique wrote in news:1176772327.534808.197520
@l77g2000hsb.googlegroups.com:

This started out in the thread about the Osborne EB3, but I'm in the
market for one myself, having found the Incra 1000SE wanting. What
I'm looking for is one that has a one piece bar with a flip-stop
that'll go out to at least 36" or so, that works with a sacrificial
fence to prevent tear-out, and is "very" accurate on miters (with a
guide bar that adjusts for zero slop). The Kreg looks good, but it
only goes out to 24". I'd really like some extra length. (heh)

JP


When I bought the Kreg, you could get a 36" bar for it. I did.

Patriarch

I don't think the 1000se goes out 36". I think max is around 30 inches. The
3000se goes way past 36" to around 45+ inches.

Thom


"Patriarch" wrote in message
. 136...
Jay Pique wrote in news:1176772327.534808.197520
@l77g2000hsb.googlegroups.com:

This started out in the thread about the Osborne EB3, but I'm in the
market for one myself, having found the Incra 1000SE wanting. What
I'm looking for is one that has a one piece bar with a flip-stop
that'll go out to at least 36" or so, that works with a sacrificial
fence to prevent tear-out, and is "very" accurate on miters (with a
guide bar that adjusts for zero slop). The Kreg looks good, but it
only goes out to 24". I'd really like some extra length. (heh)

JP


When I bought the Kreg, you could get a 36" bar for it. I did.

Patriarch

I got the Osborne EB3 and I like it very much. Check out their website
http://www.osbornemfg.com/video.htm . Also check out the reviews from all
the major WW magazines listed on the Osborne site.

"Will" wrote in message
m...
I got the Osborne EB3 and I like it very much. Check out their website
http://www.osbornemfg.com/video.htm . Also check out the reviews from all
the major WW magazines listed on the Osborne site.



Glad you like it. I won't tell you what it's inherent problem is.

"Leon" wrote in message
et...

"Will" wrote in message
m...
I got the Osborne EB3 and I like it very much. Check out their website
http://www.osbornemfg.com/video.htm . Also check out the reviews from all
the major WW magazines listed on the Osborne site.



Glad you like it. I won't tell you what it's inherent problem is.

You'd better tell me 'cause I ordered one yesterday! Luckily, they're out
of stock until May 10th, so I can cancel the order.
--

"Anybody can have more birthdays; but it takes
balls to get old!"

"Mike M" wrote in message
...
"Leon" wrote in message
et...

"Will" wrote in message
m...
I got the Osborne EB3 and I like it very much. Check out their website
http://www.osbornemfg.com/video.htm . Also check out the reviews from
all the major WW magazines listed on the Osborne site.



Glad you like it. I won't tell you what it's inherent problem is.

You'd better tell me 'cause I ordered one yesterday! Luckily, they're out
of stock until May 10th, so I can cancel the order.


When properly set up to fit you miter slot, and the end of the fence
farthest from the blade extended away from you in the 45 degree position,
the telescoping shaft extended full length, grab the far end of the fence
and notice that you can wiggle it 3 to 4 degrees +or -.

Accurate 45's in this position will be achieved by luck good luck.

While the gauge is stable with the far end of the fence closer to you with
the telescoping shaft in its shortest position when set at 45 degrees, you
increase the tendency of tear out as the cut is made.

For the best position to guard against tear out on the back side of "any"
miter gauge the fence should be set so that the end of the fence farthest
from the blade travels forward of the end closest to the blade.

"Leon" wrote in message
et...

"Mike M" wrote in message
...
"Leon" wrote in message
et...

"Will" wrote in message
m...
I got the Osborne EB3 and I like it very much. Check out their website
http://www.osbornemfg.com/video.htm . Also check out the reviews from
all the major WW magazines listed on the Osborne site.



Glad you like it. I won't tell you what it's inherent problem is.

You'd better tell me 'cause I ordered one yesterday! Luckily, they're
out of stock until May 10th, so I can cancel the order.


When properly set up to fit you miter slot, and the end of the fence
farthest from the blade extended away from you in the 45 degree position,
the telescoping shaft extended full length, grab the far end of the fence
and notice that you can wiggle it 3 to 4 degrees +or -.

Accurate 45's in this position will be achieved by luck good luck.

While the gauge is stable with the far end of the fence closer to you with
the telescoping shaft in its shortest position when set at 45 degrees, you
increase the tendency of tear out as the cut is made.

For the best position to guard against tear out on the back side of "any"
miter gauge the fence should be set so that the end of the fence farthest
from the blade travels forward of the end closest to the blade.

Thanks for the clarification, but aren't these problems inherent in most
miter gauges?
--

"Anybody can have more birthdays; but it takes
balls to get old!"

On Wed, 18 Apr 2007 09:02:58 -0400, "Mike M"
wrote:

"Leon" wrote in message
. net...

"Will" wrote in message
m...
I got the Osborne EB3 and I like it very much. Check out their website
http://www.osbornemfg.com/video.htm . Also check out the reviews from all
the major WW magazines listed on the Osborne site.



Glad you like it. I won't tell you what it's inherent problem is.

You'd better tell me 'cause I ordered one yesterday! Luckily, they're out
of stock until May 10th, so I can cancel the order.

Cutting angles.

Mark

"Mike M" wrote in message
...
"Leon" wrote in message
et...

"Mike M" wrote in message
...
"Leon" wrote in message
et...

"Will" wrote in message
m...
I got the Osborne EB3 and I like it very much. Check out their website
http://www.osbornemfg.com/video.htm . Also check out the reviews from
all the major WW magazines listed on the Osborne site.



Glad you like it. I won't tell you what it's inherent problem is.

You'd better tell me 'cause I ordered one yesterday! Luckily, they're
out of stock until May 10th, so I can cancel the order.


When properly set up to fit you miter slot, and the end of the fence
farthest from the blade extended away from you in the 45 degree position,
the telescoping shaft extended full length, grab the far end of the fence
and notice that you can wiggle it 3 to 4 degrees +or -.

Accurate 45's in this position will be achieved by luck good luck.

While the gauge is stable with the far end of the fence closer to you
with the telescoping shaft in its shortest position when set at 45
degrees, you increase the tendency of tear out as the cut is made.

For the best position to guard against tear out on the back side of
"any" miter gauge the fence should be set so that the end of the fence
farthest from the blade travels forward of the end closest to the blade.

Thanks for the clarification, but aren't these problems inherent in most
miter gauges?
--

"Anybody can have more birthdays; but it takes
balls to get old!"


They sure are inherent in most gauges. If I have a board that is as long as
Leon describes that I want to miter I use my chop saw.
If there were real problems with the EB3 why would all the leading WW
magazines rate it so high?

On Wed, 18 Apr 2007 09:00:15 -0500, "Will" wrote:


"Mike M" wrote in message
...
"Leon" wrote in message
et...

"Mike M" wrote in message
...
"Leon" wrote in message
et...

"Will" wrote in message
m...
I got the Osborne EB3 and I like it very much. Check out their website
http://www.osbornemfg.com/video.htm . Also check out the reviews from
all the major WW magazines listed on the Osborne site.



Glad you like it. I won't tell you what it's inherent problem is.

You'd better tell me 'cause I ordered one yesterday! Luckily, they're
out of stock until May 10th, so I can cancel the order.


When properly set up to fit you miter slot, and the end of the fence
farthest from the blade extended away from you in the 45 degree position,
the telescoping shaft extended full length, grab the far end of the fence
and notice that you can wiggle it 3 to 4 degrees +or -.

Accurate 45's in this position will be achieved by luck good luck.

While the gauge is stable with the far end of the fence closer to you
with the telescoping shaft in its shortest position when set at 45
degrees, you increase the tendency of tear out as the cut is made.

For the best position to guard against tear out on the back side of
"any" miter gauge the fence should be set so that the end of the fence
farthest from the blade travels forward of the end closest to the blade.

Thanks for the clarification, but aren't these problems inherent in most
miter gauges?
--

"Anybody can have more birthdays; but it takes
balls to get old!"


They sure are inherent in most gauges. If I have a board that is as long as
Leon describes that I want to miter I use my chop saw.
If there were real problems with the EB3 why would all the leading WW
magazines rate it so high?

For the same reason you do not see negative reviews of cars in Car &
Driver magazine.

Mark

On Wed, 18 Apr 2007 01:40:10 GMT, "Leon"
wrote:


"Will" wrote in message
om...
I got the Osborne EB3 and I like it very much. Check out their website
http://www.osbornemfg.com/video.htm . Also check out the reviews from all
the major WW magazines listed on the Osborne site.



Glad you like it. I won't tell you what it's inherent problem is.



Pray tell. May not be an issue for some. I'd like to know *before* I
buy.

On Apr 17, 11:47 am, Patriarch wrote:
Jay Pique wrote in news:1176772327.534808.197520
@l77g2000hsb.googlegroups.com:

This started out in the thread about the Osborne EB3, but I'm in the
market for one myself, having found the Incra 1000SE wanting. What
I'm looking for is one that has a one piece bar with a flip-stop
that'll go out to at least 36" or so, that works with a sacrificial
fence to prevent tear-out, and is "very" accurate on miters (with a
guide bar that adjusts for zero slop). The Kreg looks good, but it
only goes out to 24". I'd really like some extra length. (heh)

JP

When I bought the Kreg, you could get a 36" bar for it. I did.

Patriarch

Do you mean the 4 foot accessory extrusion of the same gauge and x-
section as the 2 foot piece that comes with the gauge? Assuming this,
you bought the extrusion and cut it to length yourself, right? That
is an additional (MSRP) $60 on top of the miter gauge price of (MSRP)
$160. Is it worth the additional expense? How often do you use the
added length?

On Apr 18, 4:51 pm, maico wrote:
On Apr 17, 11:47 am, Patriarch wrote:





Jay Pique wrote in news:1176772327.534808.197520
@l77g2000hsb.googlegroups.com:

This started out in the thread about the Osborne EB3, but I'm in the
market for one myself, having found the Incra 1000SE wanting. What
I'm looking for is one that has a one piece bar with a flip-stop
that'll go out to at least 36" or so, that works with a sacrificial
fence to prevent tear-out, and is "very" accurate on miters (with a
guide bar that adjusts for zero slop). The Kreg looks good, but it
only goes out to 24". I'd really like some extra length. (heh)

JP

When I bought the Kreg, you could get a 36" bar for it. I did.

Patriarch

Do you mean the 4 foot accessory extrusion of the same gauge and x-
section as the 2 foot piece that comes with the gauge? Assuming this,
you bought the extrusion and cut it to length yourself, right? That
is an additional (MSRP) $60 on top of the miter gauge price of (MSRP)
$160. Is it worth the additional expense? How often do you use the
added length?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

For the same price as above, one can purchase the Jessem Mite-R-Excel
which has all the same attributes as the Kreg but gives you a solid
24" fence with the pull-out extension & stop that gives a cut-length
of 36".

Check it out:
http://www.jessem.com/mite_r_excel.htm

"Mike M" wrote in message
...

Thanks for the clarification, but aren't these problems inherent in most
miter gauges?

NO. Most miter gauges DO NOT have the telescoping third leg of a triangle
as the Osborne does. The problem is that the inner shaft fits too loosely
inside the outer shaft. When the inner shaft is extended to its outer most
position or near 45 degrees the whole telescoping support flexes back and
forth causing the fence to move back and forth.

"Will" wrote in message
news


They sure are inherent in most gauges. If I have a board that is as long
as Leon describes that I want to miter I use my chop saw.

Board length has nothing to do with it. The gauge set at 45 degrees with
the telescoping arm extend to the far position has slop.
Every Osbourn that I have seen has up to 1/2" slop at the end of the fence
in the shortest position.


If there were real problems with the EB3 why would all the leading WW
magazines rate it so high?

I understand that Fine Woodworking was not impressed for the reason
mentioned.

Is yours the 1 in a million that does not have the play when set at 45
degrees?

"SWDeveloper" wrote in message
...

Glad you like it. I won't tell you what it's inherent problem is.



Pray tell. May not be an issue for some. I'd like to know *before* I
buy.


Buy from a local dealer so that you can set the miter gauge up on a saw.
Set the Osborne miter gauge up with the telescoping adjustment rod in the
most extended position at the 45 degree mark.
Grab the far/leading end of the fence and wiggle it back and forth. The
amount of deviation is usually + or - 2 to 3 degrees or some where between
1/4" and 1/2". While wiggling the fence back and forth notice that the
telescoping adjustment shaft bows back and forth also.

The problem is that the telescoping shaft is extended too far in the far 45
degree setting and machine tolerances are way too lean to prevent movement.

"Leon" wrote in message
et...

"Mike M" wrote in message
...

Thanks for the clarification, but aren't these problems inherent in most
miter gauges?

NO. Most miter gauges DO NOT have the telescoping third leg of a triangle
as the Osborne does. The problem is that the inner shaft fits too loosely
inside the outer shaft. When the inner shaft is extended to its outer
most position or near 45 degrees the whole telescoping support flexes
back and forth causing the fence to move back and forth.

Thanks again, Leon. I'm gonna let the order stay. I don't think I'll ever
need to extend it that far. Most of my projects are of the smaller variety.
--

"Anybody can have more birthdays; but it takes
balls to get old!"

"Will" wrote in message
m...
I got the Osborne EB3 and I like it very much. Check out their website
http://www.osbornemfg.com/video.htm . Also check out the reviews from all
the major WW magazines listed on the Osborne site.



Most of those articles are from about 10 years ago and "not on" the EB3. I
don't know about the earlier models, only that the EB3 has the design flaw.
I bought an EB3 a couple of years ago and ended up returning it per Mr.
Osborn's suggestion. He suggested that I return it for one that was not
defective. Unfortunately the entire stock of my local dealer had the same
problem. 2 years later at the WW show, the miter gauge with a Delta badge
demonstrated the same problem and the local wood working show. When
confronted, the Delta guys blamed loading the miter gauge on and off the
truck.

maico wrote in
ups.com:

On Apr 18, 4:51 pm, maico wrote:
On Apr 17, 11:47 am, Patriarch wrote:





Jay Pique wrote in
news:1176772327.534808.197520 @l77g2000hsb.googlegroups.com:

This started out in the thread about the Osborne EB3, but I'm in
the market for one myself, having found the Incra 1000SE wanting.
What I'm looking for is one that has a one piece bar with a
flip-stop that'll go out to at least 36" or so, that works with a
sacrificial fence to prevent tear-out, and is "very" accurate on
miters (with a guide bar that adjusts for zero slop). The Kreg
looks good, but it only goes out to 24". I'd really like some
extra length. (heh)

JP

When I bought the Kreg, you could get a 36" bar for it. I did.

Patriarch

Do you mean the 4 foot accessory extrusion of the same gauge and x-
section as the 2 foot piece that comes with the gauge? Assuming
this, you bought the extrusion and cut it to length yourself, right?
That is an additional (MSRP) $60 on top of the miter gauge price of
(MSRP) $160. Is it worth the additional expense? How often do you
use the added length?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

For the same price as above, one can purchase the Jessem Mite-R-Excel
which has all the same attributes as the Kreg but gives you a solid
24" fence with the pull-out extension & stop that gives a cut-length
of 36".

Check it out:
http://www.jessem.com/mite_r_excel.htm



I bought my Kreg miter at the woodshow several years back, when they
were just getting ready to come to market. I got the 24" and 36" solid
extrusions, and swap the base kits and flip stop sbetween them, when I
need to make a change. It's not too often, really.

Pretty sure there are other, fancier tools about these days. Mine was
pretty reasonably priced, IIRC.

Enjoy your tools.

Patriarch

"Mike M" wrote in message
...
"Leon" wrote in message

Thanks again, Leon. I'm gonna let the order stay. I don't think I'll
ever need to extend it that far. Most of my projects are of the smaller
variety.


Ok, let me resay this as I think I may have misled you here.
I am not talking about extending the length of the fence. I am talking
about extending the telescoping angle adjustment bar to its longest position
at 45 degrees.


This is a problem if you use this 45 degree settings regardless of the size
project.
When the miter gauge is setting on the saw, one end of the fence is close to
the blade. The other end of the fence will deviate dramatically when the
gauge is set to cut in the 45 degree position and the "angle adjustment
bar", not the fence, is extended to its longest position.

If you extend the fence to accommodate a longer board, the situation only
gets worse.

The 45 degree setting that has the problem with retaining the 45 degree
setting is when the end of the fence opposite the blade end is the leading
end such that the end closest to the blade trails the other end of the
fence.

When you get the gauge, before going to too much trouble to make the miter
bar fit correctly, set the gauge on your saw and set the gauge to 45 degrees
with the fence far end in the shortest possible position and leading the
blade end of the fence. Grab the fence and you will be able to wiggle it
back and forth several degrees with little effort.
The telescoping bar that sets the degree angle will be at it longer setting.
To minimize tear out on the back end of the cut you want to be able to use
both 45 degree settings on the gauge. Unfortunately only one of the 45
degree setting is stable.


With the gauge set at 45 degrees with the far in trailing, the 45 degree
will be very sturdy.

"Patriarch" wrote in message
. 136...


I bought my Kreg miter at the woodshow several years back, when they
were just getting ready to come to market. I got the 24" and 36" solid
extrusions, and swap the base kits and flip stop sbetween them, when I
need to make a change. It's not too often, really.

Pretty sure there are other, fancier tools about these days. Mine was
pretty reasonably priced, IIRC.

Enjoy your tools.

Patriarch

I too bought my Kreg when Kreg began to market it. You mention the flip
stop. My flip stop would creep when I would tighten the plastic adjustment
wing nut. Does yours to that? Kreg told me how to fix the problem and it
no longer creeps.

"Leon" wrote in message
et...

"Mike M" wrote in message
...
"Leon" wrote in message

Thanks again, Leon. I'm gonna let the order stay. I don't think I'll
ever need to extend it that far. Most of my projects are of the smaller
variety.


Ok, let me resay this as I think I may have misled you here.
I am not talking about extending the length of the fence. I am talking
about extending the telescoping angle adjustment bar to its longest
position at 45 degrees.


This is a problem if you use this 45 degree settings regardless of the
size project.
When the miter gauge is setting on the saw, one end of the fence is close
to the blade. The other end of the fence will deviate dramatically when
the gauge is set to cut in the 45 degree position and the "angle
adjustment bar", not the fence, is extended to its longest position.

If you extend the fence to accommodate a longer board, the situation only
gets worse.

The 45 degree setting that has the problem with retaining the 45 degree
setting is when the end of the fence opposite the blade end is the leading
end such that the end closest to the blade trails the other end of the
fence.

When you get the gauge, before going to too much trouble to make the miter
bar fit correctly, set the gauge on your saw and set the gauge to 45
degrees with the fence far end in the shortest possible position and
leading the blade end of the fence. Grab the fence and you will be able
to wiggle it back and forth several degrees with little effort.
The telescoping bar that sets the degree angle will be at it longer
setting.
To minimize tear out on the back end of the cut you want to be able to use
both 45 degree settings on the gauge. Unfortunately only one of the 45
degree setting is stable.


With the gauge set at 45 degrees with the far in trailing, the 45 degree
will be very sturdy.

Gotcha. What would you consider a good, not great, miter gauge?
--

"Anybody can have more birthdays; but it takes
balls to get old!"

"Leon" wrote in message
et...

"Patriarch" wrote in message
. 136...


I bought my Kreg miter at the woodshow several years back, when they
were just getting ready to come to market. I got the 24" and 36" solid
extrusions, and swap the base kits and flip stop sbetween them, when I
need to make a change. It's not too often, really.

Pretty sure there are other, fancier tools about these days. Mine was
pretty reasonably priced, IIRC.

Enjoy your tools.

Patriarch

I too bought my Kreg when Kreg began to market it. You mention the flip
stop. My flip stop would creep when I would tighten the plastic
adjustment wing nut. Does yours to that? Kreg told me how to fix the
problem and it no longer creeps.

The both of you just answered the question I posed to Leon.
--

"Anybody can have more birthdays; but it takes
balls to get old!"

On Wed, 18 Apr 2007 22:39:36 GMT, "Leon"
wrote:


"Mike M" wrote in message
...
"Leon" wrote in message

Thanks again, Leon. I'm gonna let the order stay. I don't think I'll
ever need to extend it that far. Most of my projects are of the smaller
variety.


Ok, let me resay this as I think I may have misled you here.
I am not talking about extending the length of the fence. I am talking
about extending the telescoping angle adjustment bar to its longest position
at 45 degrees.


This is a problem if you use this 45 degree settings regardless of the size
project.
When the miter gauge is setting on the saw, one end of the fence is close to
the blade. The other end of the fence will deviate dramatically when the
gauge is set to cut in the 45 degree position and the "angle adjustment
bar", not the fence, is extended to its longest position.

If you extend the fence to accommodate a longer board, the situation only
gets worse.

The 45 degree setting that has the problem with retaining the 45 degree
setting is when the end of the fence opposite the blade end is the leading
end such that the end closest to the blade trails the other end of the
fence.

When you get the gauge, before going to too much trouble to make the miter
bar fit correctly, set the gauge on your saw and set the gauge to 45 degrees
with the fence far end in the shortest possible position and leading the
blade end of the fence. Grab the fence and you will be able to wiggle it
back and forth several degrees with little effort.
The telescoping bar that sets the degree angle will be at it longer setting.
To minimize tear out on the back end of the cut you want to be able to use
both 45 degree settings on the gauge. Unfortunately only one of the 45
degree setting is stable.


With the gauge set at 45 degrees with the far in trailing, the 45 degree
will be very sturdy.

I will add that the adjustment of the bar for the miter slot is
problematic for me, I have a 1948 Unisaw the slots have some wear,
trying to get the EB-3 to slide smoothly in the miter slot with out
slop is a PITA. The Rockler miter gage I replaced the EB-3 with
adjusts the whole bar along its length a more elegant solution than
the EB-3 multiple wedging allen screws.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=16382

Mark
http://home.mchsi.com/~xphome/

"Mike M" wrote in message
news

Gotcha. What would you consider a good, not great, miter gauge?
--


Hummm... I pretty much use the Dubby miter sleds for most of my miter cuts
where I am cutting several pieces to fixed or repeated lengths.
I wanted however to have something simple and quick to square the ends of
stock and I wanted something to be dead on with out having double check
degree settings. I was looking for a miter gauge that was better than the
stock issue that comes with the saw. I considered many different ones and
chose the Osbourne EB3 as first choice. I liked the telescoping fence but
found problems with the unit design. I took it back and bought the Kreg.
It too had problems but Kreg was more interested in fixing the problem than
Osbourne was. I have been using the Kreg for a couple of years now to
mostly square stock.

The Osbourne EB3 works great at squaring stock but if you are going to spend
$200, 2 years ago, you might as well get one that can cut accurate 45's
also. I do use it in that capacity on occasion. Humm I wonder why
Osbourne is offering the EB3 at almost half price right now? ;~)

The Dubby is great, The Kreg is pretty darn good. I believe that just
about any of the after market gauges that use an indexing pin for frequently
used angles are probably the least likely to have problems long term, the
Kreg uses this method. There are a few new miter gauges that have come out
in the last couple of years that use indexing pins and I would give them a
strong look if I were in the market again.

"Markem" wrote in message
...

I will add that the adjustment of the bar for the miter slot is
problematic for me, I have a 1948 Unisaw the slots have some wear,
trying to get the EB-3 to slide smoothly in the miter slot with out
slop is a PITA. The Rockler miter gage I replaced the EB-3 with
adjusts the whole bar along its length a more elegant solution than
the EB-3 multiple wedging allen screws.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=16382

Mark
http://home.mchsi.com/~xphome/


I strongly considered the Rockler also. Great for building from scratch but
with only being able to set the gauge in 1.5 degree increments I had to
pass. While normally 1.5 degree increments fits the bill for new building,
I also do furniture repair on occasion and have to tweak miters to really
odd angles not found as a preset setting on any miter gauge. I needed a
miter gauge that would lock in at any angle.

Subject

A question:

What do any of these after market miter gauges accomplish that a sled
with a cleat tacked in place along the layout line of the angle in
question doesn't do more accurately and a for a lot less money.

Just curious.

Lew

"Mike M" wrote in message
. ..
"Leon" wrote in message
et...



The both of you just answered the question I posed to Leon.

There are several good ones out there and more have shown up since I bought
the Kreg. I suggest the touchy feely thing on any that you may consider and
for sure test the rigidity of the fence at different miter settings on all
that you look at. Jessem has a pretty slick miter gauge although I have not
put my hands on one.

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
ink.net...
Subject

A question:

What do any of these after market miter gauges accomplish that a sled with
a cleat tacked in place along the layout line of the angle in question
doesn't do more accurately and a for a lot less money.

Just curious.

Lew

For me, adjust and store away more quickly.

Leon wrote:

For me, adjust and store away more quickly.


Is that it?

If so, quicker set up makes sense for a production/custom operation.

Not sure about an amateur like me.

Lew

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
ink.net...
Leon wrote:

For me, adjust and store away more quickly.


Is that it?

If so, quicker set up makes sense for a production/custom operation.

Not sure about an amateur like me.

Lew



It is one of a few luxury items for me. These days I charge for most of
what I build.

"Leon" wrote in message
.. .

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
ink.net...
Leon wrote:

For me, adjust and store away more quickly.


Is that it?

If so, quicker set up makes sense for a production/custom operation.

Not sure about an amateur like me.

Lew



It is one of a few luxury items for me. These days I charge for most of
what I build.
Osborne EB3 is supposed to be a new design and is manufactured by General
International in Canada.
Check out this review http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/osbrneb3.html .
I think that a lot of criticism is directed at the old EB2 and not the EB3
which came out less than a year ago. For a close-up of the new model check
out this site http://www.osbornemfg.com/close-up.htm . I have read several
reviews of the new EB3 and I haven't seen any negative reviews.
I am not a production type of woodworker, just a person who is an
intermediate type of hobby person, that occasionally hides his mistakes with
wood filler.

"Will" wrote in message
...

Osborne EB3 is supposed to be a new design and is manufactured by General
International in Canada.

Was a new design 2 years ago. Apparently General has recently purchase the
company or the jig from Mr. Osbourne.





Check out this review http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/osbrneb3.html
. I think that a lot of criticism is directed at the old EB2 and not the
EB3 which came out less than a year ago.

I bought an EB3 in the spring of 2005. The Delta badged Osbourne still has
the same problem that I had 2 years ago.




For a close-up of the new model check
out this site http://www.osbornemfg.com/close-up.htm . I have read
several reviews of the new EB3 and I haven't seen any negative reviews.
I am not a production type of woodworker, just a person who is an
intermediate type of hobby person, that occasionally hides his mistakes
with wood filler.

Then the Osbourne may be just right for you. I have been doing this for
almost 30 years in a serious way and don't have much patience for tools that
don't work the way that they should. As I have pointed out in other posts,
I ended up with a Kreg and even then it is second choice to my Dubby Miter
Sleds.
A favorable review is not going to make the EB3 any better. Did any of the
reviews address the wiggle at the end of the fence at the 45 degree setting?
If not, check your EB3 out in both 45 degree settings and then ask yourself,
what did the review, or most any review for that matter, leave out? Reviews
are good for providing information that you are specifically looking for if
it is covered in the review but unfortunately most reviews miss a lot of
important points.

Another example of reviews not covering all the angles are those on the
Festool Domino. Most all reviews are really keen on this tool except for
the price. Charleyb has posted links to His review of the tool and posts
regarding the tool and he points out the problem of the tool only having
metric adjustments. This is more of a problem in the US. Can you work
around it? Yes you can. Is that an important point to consider? For some,
yes.

The EB3 is a cool miter gauge with lots of features. It's ability to lock
down securely at "both" 45 degrees settings will be a problem for many.


Enjoy your hobby.

On Wed, 18 Apr 2007 21:41:27 -0500, "Will" wrote:


"Leon" wrote in message
. ..

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
ink.net...
Leon wrote:

For me, adjust and store away more quickly.


Is that it?

If so, quicker set up makes sense for a production/custom operation.

Not sure about an amateur like me.

Lew



It is one of a few luxury items for me. These days I charge for most of
what I build.
Osborne EB3 is supposed to be a new design and is manufactured by General
International in Canada.
Check out this review http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/osbrneb3.html .
I think that a lot of criticism is directed at the old EB2 and not the EB3
which came out less than a year ago. For a close-up of the new model check
out this site http://www.osbornemfg.com/close-up.htm . I have read several
reviews of the new EB3 and I haven't seen any negative reviews.
I am not a production type of woodworker, just a person who is an
intermediate type of hobby person, that occasionally hides his mistakes with
wood filler.

The EB-3 is older than that and what I have is an EB-3 bought from Mr.
Osborne's company so your thoughts are wrong. If you have read Leon
and my thoughts you have read negative things about it, we are not
some fancy WW magazine though, just people who have used it and found
short comings. We have shared the experiences with the miter gauge so
people can make an informed decision. YMMV depending upon how much
marketing you swallow.

Mark

"Leon" wrote in message
.. .

"Mike M" wrote in message
. ..
"Leon" wrote in message
et...



The both of you just answered the question I posed to Leon.

There are several good ones out there and more have shown up since I
bought the Kreg. I suggest the touchy feely thing on any that you may
consider and for sure test the rigidity of the fence at different miter
settings on all that you look at. Jessem has a pretty slick miter gauge
although I have not put my hands on one.

Thanks again for all the info.
--

"Anybody can have more birthdays; but it takes
balls to get old!"

"Leon" wrote in
:


"Mike M" wrote in message
. ..
"Leon" wrote in message
et...



The both of you just answered the question I posed to Leon.

There are several good ones out there and more have shown up since I
bought the Kreg. I suggest the touchy feely thing on any that you may
consider and for sure test the rigidity of the fence at different
miter settings on all that you look at. Jessem has a pretty slick
miter gauge although I have not put my hands on one.



I did the touchy feely with the Jessem gauge, and it's a nice looking tool,
as most of their things are. But at that price, and already owning an
underutilized, functional gauge, I kept my wallet safe.

Patriarch