"dpb" wrote in message
...
Lew Hodgett wrote:
"dpb" wrote:

It almost always has been a design feature -- look at any vintage text
or manufacturer's literature. That either one may be too young to have
learned it or simply started after the router became ubiquitous is quite
likely a major factor...

It still works "most excellent" for the purpose...

There was also a time when blood letting was considered state of the art
medical practice.


Actually, in some forms it again is...

--

Speaking of that, if you cut a rabbit on the jointer, won't the blood get
all over the surface? I'd rather cook it whole if that's the case.

Robatoy wrote:

I see that the cutter is covered when the fence is all the way over to
the edge.
How is kick-back covered?

How is kick back covered in ANY operation on a jointer? There are no
hardware provisions to control kick back on any jointer I've ever seen.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

On Sep 13, 1:51*pm, Nova wrote:
Robatoy wrote:
I see that the cutter is covered when the fence is all the way over to
the edge.
How is kick-back covered?

How is kick back covered in ANY operation on a jointer? *There are no
hardware provisions to control kick back on any jointer I've ever seen.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA


The porkchop shaped guard works as a cam and will stop a normal piece
of wood from flying backwards.

Robatoy wrote:

On Sep 13, 1:51 pm, Nova wrote:

Robatoy wrote:

I see that the cutter is covered when the fence is all the way over to
the edge.
How is kick-back covered?

How is kick back covered in ANY operation on a jointer? There are no
hardware provisions to control kick back on any jointer I've ever seen.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA



The porkchop shaped guard works as a cam and will stop a normal piece
of wood from flying backwards.

Try this:

1. Set your infeed table equal to the outfeed table.
2. With the jointer turned off run a board through the jointer in the
normal direction.
3. With the jointer turned off run the same board through the jointer
in the direction opposite normal.
4. Note the zero difference in resistance between steps 2 & 3.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

Robatoy wrote:
On Sep 13, 11:41 am, dpb wrote:
Robatoy wrote:

...

Why do something dangerous when it can be done safely?
Where do you get the dangerous bit from?

Look at the instruction manual picture at

http://www.dewaltservicenet.com/documents/English/Instruction%20Manua...

p21, Fig. 43. and tell me what you see as a problem.

--

I see that the cutter is covered when the fence is all the way over to
the edge.
How is kick-back covered?

Same as in normal operation -- your contention the blade guard is an
effective anti-kickback device is wishful thinking at best...

--

On Sep 13, 2:08*pm, dpb wrote:
Robatoy wrote:
On Sep 13, 11:41 am, dpb wrote:
Robatoy wrote:

...

Why do something dangerous when it can be done safely?
Where do you get the dangerous bit from?

Look at the instruction manual picture at

http://www.dewaltservicenet.com/documents/English/Instruction%20Manua....

p21, Fig. 43. *and tell me what you see as a problem.

--

I see that the cutter is covered when the fence is all the way over to
the edge.
How is kick-back covered?

Same as in normal operation -- your contention the blade guard is an
effective anti-kickback device is wishful thinking at best...

--

Next time you edge joint a board...try to pull it back towards
you...assuming you have a porkchop style guard.

Robatoy wrote:

Pull off the guard on a jointer? Do you have ANY idea how incredibly
dangerous that is?

Not very unless you are making a really wide rabbit.

That guard does more than just cover that meat-grinder. It is also an
anti-kick-back device.

I've never had kick back from my jointer? Not sure how the guard would
do anything to prevent kickback?

That cutter will pull your hand IN and there will be no hope of
anybody sewing a bucket of slime back onto your wrist.

Most rabbits are not that wide, so not much of the blade is ever
exposed. The knives are not going to do much other than knock off a
finger tip or two. Much more dangerous jobs going on in a shop than
using a jointer. As for using it to make rabbits, I did it a few times
just to do it, but I like leaving my jointer set to 1/32 so 2 passes
make a 1/16th. I don't like changing it and there are better ways to
make a rabbit most of the time. Also, jointer fences are not made for
fine tuned adjustments. The last reason not to use a jointer for a
rabbit is danger.

As for removing the guard, I vaguely recall David Marks doing that on
his giant jointer on TV. I won't swear to it, but I think he used it
facing wide boards w/o the guard which I thought was a little wild, but
David made it look safe. This jointer was really old looking, and
about 20 or 24 inches... really a huge one. Anyone recall him using it
without a guard? Maybe even w/o a fence? I know he would run boards
over it at an angle, but the thing was so wide you could do that with
the fence on, but not sure anymore how he did it.

Interestingly, Scott Phillips makes everything look dangerous. He has
table saw guards, 20 different types of push sticks, splitters, and
every time I see him use his table saw I figure he has a 50/50 chance of
whacking off a hand or at least a finger. He just looks out of place and
uncomfortable in a shop. How he got on TV has been a mystery to me...
He's the only one left in my area... Norm's repeats, David is gone, the
Woodsmith shop is gone... Next I guess will have some babe with a chop
saw and a nail gun building deck furniture while the old man brings her
ice tea...

--
Jack
Using FREE News Server: http://www.eternal-september.org/
http://jbstein.com

Robatoy wrote:
--

I see that the cutter is covered when the fence is all the way over to
the edge.
How is kick-back covered?

How is it covered on a router?
By only exposing a little bit of the bit at a time?
Isn't that hat those anti-kickback designs do?


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Nova wrote:
Robatoy wrote:

I see that the cutter is covered when the fence is all the way over to
the edge.
How is kick-back covered?

How is kick back covered in ANY operation on a jointer? There are no
hardware provisions to control kick back on any jointer I've ever seen.


Those pork chops (thanks to whoever gave me that) don't do anything.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Robatoy wrote:

The porkchop shaped guard works as a cam and will stop a normal piece
of wood from flying backwards.


Are you sure about that? (not trying to be argumentative, here)

I have a decent Delta 6" and I can slide a piece of wood forwards and
back against that smooth paint job, without much effort at all.

To my knowledge the spring only exerts the minimal amount of force
required to keep the chop over the blades and not impede the progress of
the wood.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Sep 13, 3:12*pm, -MIKE- wrote:
Robatoy wrote:

The porkchop shaped guard works as a cam and will stop a normal piece
of wood from flying backwards.

Are you sure about that? *(not trying to be argumentative, here)

I have a decent Delta 6" and I can slide a piece of wood forwards and
back against that smooth paint job, without much effort at all.

To my knowledge the spring only exerts the minimal amount of force
required to keep the chop over the blades and not impede the progress of
the wood.

If set up properly, the cam action will impede the movement backwards.

Robatoy wrote:
The porkchop shaped guard works as a cam and will stop a normal piece
of wood from flying backwards.
Are you sure about that? (not trying to be argumentative, here)

I have a decent Delta 6" and I can slide a piece of wood forwards and
back against that smooth paint job, without much effort at all.

To my knowledge the spring only exerts the minimal amount of force
required to keep the chop over the blades and not impede the progress of
the wood.

If set up properly, the cam action will impede the movement backwards.


Not buying it, sorry. :-)

All the cutter guards I've seen have a very smoothly painted surface and
are very easy to move.

Is this adjustment and/or purpose described in any jointer manual you
know?

Again, I'm not busting your balls.
Maybe the higher end planers have the feature and I just haven't seen it.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

-MIKE- wrote:
Robatoy wrote:
The porkchop shaped guard works as a cam and will stop a normal
piece of wood from flying backwards.
Are you sure about that? (not trying to be argumentative, here)

I have a decent Delta 6" and I can slide a piece of wood forwards
and back against that smooth paint job, without much effort at all.

To my knowledge the spring only exerts the minimal amount of force
required to keep the chop over the blades and not impede the
progress of the wood.

If set up properly, the cam action will impede the movement
backwards.


Not buying it, sorry. :-)

All the cutter guards I've seen have a very smoothly painted surface
and are very easy to move.

Is this adjustment and/or purpose described in any jointer manual you
know?

Again, I'm not busting your balls.
Maybe the higher end planers have the feature and I just haven't seen
it.

If kickback is an issue with your planer you're doing something wrong IMO.

Robatoy wrote:
....
Next time you edge joint a board...try to pull it back towards
you...assuming you have a porkchop style guard.

It'll just slide--the edges are smooth and the spring isn't strong
enough. They're a knives guard and that's it.

If you can find any manufacturer in any user manual or safety
documentation make any representation otherwise, I'll color meself more
than surprised.

I just did a global search on the words guard and kickback in the Delta
manual I posted a link to earlier and there's a lot of references to
using push sticks and so on to guard against kickback but nary a word
that indicates the cutterhead guard has any role other than its function
by name.

Again, any semblance to being effective in an actual kickback event
(which I've never experienced in 40+ years on a jointer) is a fignewton
of your imagination...

--

On Sep 13, 5:07*pm, -MIKE- wrote:
Robatoy wrote:
The porkchop shaped guard works as a cam and will stop a normal piece
of wood from flying backwards.
Are you sure about that? *(not trying to be argumentative, here)

I have a decent Delta 6" and I can slide a piece of wood forwards and
back against that smooth paint job, without much effort at all.

To my knowledge the spring only exerts the minimal amount of force
required to keep the chop over the blades and not impede the progress of
the wood.

If set up properly, the cam action will impede the movement backwards.

Not buying it, sorry. * :-)

All the cutter guards I've seen have a very smoothly painted surface and
are very easy to move.

Is this adjustment and/or purpose described in any jointer manual you
know?

Again, I'm not busting your balls.
Maybe the higher end planers have the feature and I just haven't seen it.

--

* -MIKE-

* "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
* * *--Elvin Jones *(1927-2004)
* --
*http://mikedrums.com
*
* ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

One more try. Put a board...like a 2x4 in between the fence and the
guard. (Without cutter running... for safety)
Go to the front of the outfeed table and push back towards the infeed
table. The guard should bind the work piece against the fence. Should.
It is the whole point of the porkchop shape.

On Sep 13, 6:06*pm, dpb wrote:
Robatoy wrote:

...

Next time you edge joint a board...try to pull it back towards
you...assuming you have a porkchop style guard.

It'll just slide--the edges are smooth and the spring isn't strong
enough. *They're a knives guard and that's it.

If you can find any manufacturer in any user manual or safety
documentation make any representation otherwise, I'll color meself more
than surprised.

I just did a global search on the words guard and kickback in the Delta
manual I posted a link to earlier and there's a lot of references to
using push sticks and so on to guard against kickback but nary a word
that indicates the cutterhead guard has any role other than its function
by name.

Again, any semblance to being effective in an actual kickback event
(which I've never experienced in 40+ years on a jointer) is a fignewton
of your imagination... *

--

I'll spare you a smart-ass reply but try this:

One more try. Put a board...like a 2x4 in between the fence and the
guard. (Without cutter running... for safety)
Go to the front of the outfeed table and push back towards the infeed
table. The guard should bind the work piece against the fence.
Should.
It is the whole point of the porkchop shape.

Robatoy wrote:



One more try. Put a board...like a 2x4 in between the fence and the
guard. (Without cutter running... for safety)
Go to the front of the outfeed table and push back towards the infeed
table. The guard should bind the work piece against the fence. Should.
It is the whole point of the porkchop shape.

The design of the porkchop shape is to allow the guard to cover the
portion of the blades not being used when jointing varying width boards.
Its design has nothing to do with preventing kickback.

If you've tried running a board backwards through your jointer as you
suggest you'll see the guard offer absolutely no resistance. I've tried
it before I first suggested to you.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

In article ,
Robatoy wrote:
...snipped...
If set up properly, the cam action will impede the movement backwards.


Maybe if the curved part of the guard had teeth cut into it like
a table saw anti-kickback pawl, but don't count on the typical jointer
guard to keep a board from moving. Just try letting go of a short board
during a deep cut and see what happens!


--
Often wrong, never in doubt.

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org

On Sep 13, 8:11*pm, (Larry W) wrote:
In article ,Robatoy wrote:

...snipped...

If set up properly, the cam action will impede the movement backwards.

Maybe if the curved part of the guard had teeth cut into it like
a table saw anti-kickback pawl,

And scratch a good board?

Robatoy wrote:

One more try. Put a board...like a 2x4 in between the fence and the
guard. (Without cutter running... for safety)
Go to the front of the outfeed table and push back towards the infeed
table. The guard should bind the work piece against the fence. Should.
It is the whole point of the porkchop shape.

Did it, the first time I replied, and it doesn't hold a bit.

With all do respect (because from your posts you obviously know your
stuff) I think the porkchop is the shape it is so that it will move out
of the way, in the same manner and with the same effort, not matter how
narrow or wide the board is, that is being pushed into it.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Nova wrote:
Robatoy wrote:



One more try. Put a board...like a 2x4 in between the fence and the
guard. (Without cutter running... for safety)
Go to the front of the outfeed table and push back towards the infeed
table. The guard should bind the work piece against the fence. Should.
It is the whole point of the porkchop shape.

The design of the porkchop shape is to allow the guard to cover the
portion of the blades not being used when jointing varying width boards.
Its design has nothing to do with preventing kickback.

If you've tried running a board backwards through your jointer as you
suggest you'll see the guard offer absolutely no resistance. I've tried
it before I first suggested to you.

I think there are some limited circumstances where Rob's assertion will
be true (I just tried it to test my theory). If you're edge jointing a
relatively thin (say 4/4) board with the fence all the way retracted,
the guard will offer some amount of kickback protection, mainly because
the distance between the pivot point and the fence is maximized and
there is leverage present. As soon as the guard pivots further away
from the fence that leverage is lost.

--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

On Sep 13, 9:36*pm, -MIKE- wrote:
Robatoy wrote:

One more try. Put a board...like a 2x4 in between the fence and the
guard. (Without cutter running... for safety)
Go to the front of the outfeed table and push back towards the infeed
table. The guard should bind the work piece against the fence. Should.
It is the whole point of the porkchop shape.

Did it, the first time I replied, and it doesn't hold a bit.

With all do respect (because from your posts you obviously know your
stuff) I think the porkchop is the shape it is so that it will move out
of the way, in the same manner and with the same effort, not matter how
narrow or wide the board is, that is being pushed into it.

I appreciate your semi vote of confidence..LOL
I did spend some time looking at a lot of images of cutter guards and
it is clear that many won't do a thing to stop kick back. The european
guards will not do a thing to stop kick-back. Like Mini Max, for
instance.Conversely, many will, and many will at varying thicknesses
(widths?)
Some of the Powermatic ones look like they'd do a pretty good job at
most of their spec'd widths.
The General ones, like mine, are more 'iffy' at wider widths.

In summation: Mine works like a cam and stops my being able to pull
back a board, certainly up to 2" thick.
Yours might not.
Steve Turner's does, somewhat, up to a point.
So... what izzit? Smooth or Crunchy?

Robatoy wrote:
On Sep 13, 9:36 pm, -MIKE- wrote:
Robatoy wrote:

One more try. Put a board...like a 2x4 in between the fence and the
guard. (Without cutter running... for safety)
Go to the front of the outfeed table and push back towards the infeed
table. The guard should bind the work piece against the fence. Should.
It is the whole point of the porkchop shape.
Did it, the first time I replied, and it doesn't hold a bit.

With all do respect (because from your posts you obviously know your
stuff) I think the porkchop is the shape it is so that it will move out
of the way, in the same manner and with the same effort, not matter how
narrow or wide the board is, that is being pushed into it.

I appreciate your semi vote of confidence..LOL
I did spend some time looking at a lot of images of cutter guards and
it is clear that many won't do a thing to stop kick back. The european
guards will not do a thing to stop kick-back. Like Mini Max, for
instance.Conversely, many will, and many will at varying thicknesses
(widths?)
Some of the Powermatic ones look like they'd do a pretty good job at
most of their spec'd widths.
The General ones, like mine, are more 'iffy' at wider widths.

In summation: Mine works like a cam and stops my being able to pull
back a board, certainly up to 2" thick.
Yours might not.
Steve Turner's does, somewhat, up to a point.
So... what izzit? Smooth or Crunchy?

Chocolate. :-)


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Robatoy wrote:
:
: If set up properly, the cam action will impede the movement backwards.

If you set the cam spring really tight, it'll bang so hard into the fence
you'll knock it out of square.

And you still won't prevent kickback. You'd need something to grip or
bite into the board if it started to move backwards.

-- Andy Barss

On Sun, 13 Sep 2009 01:44:53 GMT, "Lew Hodgett" wrote:


"dpb" wrote:

It's specifically designed for the task -- that's why there's the
extension table on the front and the rabbet removed for stock
clearance and the support on the rear bed.

Lengthwise, it's the tool of choice...


I'll pass.

Lew

Me too.

In my first few minutes of introduction to a joiner, it threw a short board across the shop. That
board laughed at any effort my pork chop guard put out at stopping the kickback. My fingers (all 4
of them plus the thumb) of my right hand were numb for several minutes, and I am sure I felt an urge
to urinate when I realized how close I'd come to serious injury. I had RTFM at least twice, and
still screwed up. That was some years ago, but I've never forgotten the lesson.

I'd never cut a rebate on a joiner. My weapon of choice nowadays would be a Stanley #78 (fillister
plane, Jeff). Since I don't do woodworking for a living, most of my work is one off. For small
jobs, a hand plane is often quicker than setting up a dado for the saw. Certainly quieter.

Need dozens to hundreds of feet of rebate? I'd break out the TS and dado and have at it. I'd even
consider using one of those tailed banshee's of a router with that much to cut.

My $0.02.

Regards,
Roy

On 09/13/2009 02:50 PM, Robatoy wrote:

If set up properly, the cam action will impede the movement backwards.

Not buying it. If kickback were an issue, the european machines would
have dealt with it. As it stands, they have guards that always cover
the cutterhead and the stock slides under the guard. No provision
whatsoever for kickback prevention.

Chris

Robatoy wrote:
....

It is the whole point of the porkchop shape.

It is beyond incredible the design was intended to have that function
and _NO_ manufacturer makes mention of it...

As somebody else noted, the shape has two functions --

a) cover the cutterhead for all positions of the fence for all widths of
stock, and

b) allow easy passage of material by it for the same conditions.

The shape comes from "form follows function".

Finis

--

On Mon, 14 Sep 2009 08:06:07 -0600, Chris Friesen
wrote:

On 09/13/2009 02:50 PM, Robatoy wrote:

If set up properly, the cam action will impede the movement backwards.

Not buying it. If kickback were an issue, the european machines would
have dealt with it. As it stands, they have guards that always cover
the cutterhead and the stock slides under the guard. No provision
whatsoever for kickback prevention.

Chris


I just tried a few boards on my DJ20 with no power. Every board could
be easily pulled back through the safety guard, unlike a featherboard.

"Phisherman" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 14 Sep 2009 08:06:07 -0600, Chris Friesen
wrote:

On 09/13/2009 02:50 PM, Robatoy wrote:

If set up properly, the cam action will impede the movement backwards.

Not buying it. If kickback were an issue, the european machines would
have dealt with it. As it stands, they have guards that always cover
the cutterhead and the stock slides under the guard. No provision
whatsoever for kickback prevention.

Chris


I just tried a few boards on my DJ20 with no power. Every board could
be easily pulled back through the safety guard, unlike a featherboard.

That has been my experience with my DJ-20 and the 6" Reliant before that...
and the spring tension on the DJ-20 is significantly higher than the
Reliant.

John

On Sep 14, 5:24*pm, "John Grossbohlin"
wrote:
"Phisherman" wrote in message

...





On Mon, 14 Sep 2009 08:06:07 -0600, Chris Friesen
wrote:

On 09/13/2009 02:50 PM, Robatoy wrote:

If set up properly, the cam action will impede the movement backwards..

Not buying it. *If kickback were an issue, the european machines would
have dealt with it. *As it stands, they have guards that always *cover
the cutterhead and the stock slides under the guard. *No provision
whatsoever for kickback prevention.

Chris

I just tried a few boards on my DJ20 with no power. *Every board could
be easily pulled back through the safety guard, unlike a featherboard.

That has been my experience with my DJ-20 and the 6" Reliant before that....
and the spring tension on the DJ-20 is significantly higher than the
Reliant.

John

And my 6" General grabs a board just nicely.
..
..
..
We can go on like this for a while, eh?

"Robatoy" wrote in message
...
On Sep 14, 5:24 pm, "John Grossbohlin"
wrote:
"Phisherman" wrote in message

I just tried a few boards on my DJ20 with no power. Every board could
be easily pulled back through the safety guard, unlike a featherboard.

That has been my experience with my DJ-20 and the 6" Reliant before
that...
and the spring tension on the DJ-20 is significantly higher than the
Reliant.

John

And my 6" General grabs a board just nicely.
.
.
.
We can go on like this for a while, eh?


Guess we could treat it like a social science issue instead of a hard
science issue here...

"The empirical evidence suggests that on average we can expect the guard on
a jointer to fail to prevent kick back." Which lets outliers like the above
mentioned General through while keeping the typical user safe by them not
expecting the guard to prevent kick back.

If someone wants to turn it into a hard science experiment and report the
results I'm for it...

H1: We can expect the guard on a jointer to fail to prevent kick back.

Got any engineers in the group who can conduct the testing? Hmmm... maybe
I'll run this by Chris Schwarz... those guys always need ideas for articles!

John

Robatoy wrote:
On Sep 14, 5:24 pm, "John Grossbohlin"
wrote:
"Phisherman" wrote in message

...





On Mon, 14 Sep 2009 08:06:07 -0600, Chris Friesen
wrote:
On 09/13/2009 02:50 PM, Robatoy wrote:
If set up properly, the cam action will impede the movement backwards.
Not buying it. If kickback were an issue, the european machines would
have dealt with it. As it stands, they have guards that always cover
the cutterhead and the stock slides under the guard. No provision
whatsoever for kickback prevention.
Chris
I just tried a few boards on my DJ20 with no power. Every board could
be easily pulled back through the safety guard, unlike a featherboard.
That has been my experience with my DJ-20 and the 6" Reliant before that...
and the spring tension on the DJ-20 is significantly higher than the
Reliant.

John

And my 6" General grabs a board just nicely.
.
.
.
We can go on like this for a while, eh?

I think the point is, it was never designed to, nor intended to stop
kickback.

Like another guy wrote, how come you don't (and won't, I'd guess) see it
in any manuals.

We have one guy who claims his works and everyone else claiming theirs
does not.

Yet if everyone in here went out to check their table saw guards (except
those foolish enough to remove them), everyone would report back that
the teeth held the board. If everyone in here went out to check their
fingerboards, everyone would report back that they held the board.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Sep 14, 9:08*pm, -MIKE- wrote:


Yet if everyone in here went out to check their table saw guards (except
those foolish enough to remove them),

Any idea how many here HAVE removed their TS guards?

Robatoy wrote:
On Sep 14, 9:08 pm, -MIKE- wrote:


Yet if everyone in here went out to check their table saw guards
(except those foolish enough to remove them),

Any idea how many here HAVE removed their TS guards?

Is THAT what that thing was?

Robatoy wrote in
:

On Sep 14, 9:08*pm, -MIKE- wrote:


Yet if everyone in here went out to check their table saw guards
(except those foolish enough to remove them),

Any idea how many here HAVE removed their TS guards?

All serious table saw users have at one time or another removed the
guard from their saw. So, the real questions a How many serious
table saw users do we have here, and does removing the guard make you a
serious table saw user?

Puckdropper
--
"The potential difference between the top and bottom of a tree is the
reason why all trees have to be grounded..." -- Bored Borg on
rec.woodworking

To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm

Robatoy wrote:
On Sep 14, 9:08 pm, -MIKE- wrote:

Yet if everyone in here went out to check their table saw guards (except
those foolish enough to remove them),

Any idea how many here HAVE removed their TS guards?


Yes, it's foolish.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Puckdropper wrote:
Robatoy wrote in

Yet if everyone in here went out to check their table saw guards
(except those foolish enough to remove them),

Any idea how many here HAVE removed their TS guards?

All serious table saw users have at one time or another removed the
guard from their saw. So, the real questions a How many serious
table saw users do we have here, and does removing the guard make you a
serious table saw user?

Puckdropper


There are obviously techniques for which one has to remove the guard.
Not putting it back on is lazy and like I said, foolish. I won't
apologize for saying that.

I find it ironic that the guy, who's admonishment of the OP for pulling
the guard off his jointer precipitated the bulk of the debate in this
thread, now has seemingly* taken offense to me criticizing the same thing.

(*seemingly, because I'm not for certain why it was said, so I can't go
any further than to point out the potential irony.) :-)


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

"Robatoy" wrote in message
...
On Sep 14, 9:08 pm, -MIKE- wrote:


Yet if everyone in here went out to check their table saw guards (except
those foolish enough to remove them),

Any idea how many here HAVE removed their TS guards?



I didn't remove mine. I never put it on.

On Sep 14, 11:42*pm, -MIKE- wrote:
Puckdropper wrote:
Robatoy wrote in

Yet if everyone in here went out to check their table saw guards
(except those foolish enough to remove them),

Any idea how many here HAVE removed their TS guards?

All serious table saw users have at one time or another removed the
guard from their saw. *So, the real questions a How many serious
table saw users do we have here, and does removing the guard make you a
serious table saw user?

Puckdropper

There are obviously techniques for which one has to remove the guard.
Not putting it back on is lazy and like I said, foolish. *I won't
apologize for saying that.

I find it ironic that the guy, who's admonishment of the OP for pulling
the guard off his jointer precipitated the bulk of the debate in this
thread, now has seemingly* taken offense to me criticizing the same thing..

THIS is 'seemingly' my taking 'offense'?
======================
Any idea how many here HAVE removed their TS guards?
======================

How do you reach that conclusion?
You have NO idea how I feel about TS guards, on my- or others' saws.

You're making **** up out of whole cloth. With what purpose did you
just do that?