Planer question
 

Up to now I have been buying my lumber S4S. I recently purchased a 12"
planer and have a 6" jointer. I'll true the face of any boards less
than 6" on the jointer and then plane to thickness. How do I handle
boards wider than 6"? Will the chatter marks on the rough cut lumber
impede getting a smooth surface if I run it through the planer as is? I
could experiment, but why mess up a decent board? G

Larry

Planer question
 

" wrote in message
...
Up to now I have been buying my lumber S4S. I recently purchased a 12"
planer and have a 6" jointer. I'll true the face of any boards less than
6" on the jointer and then plane to thickness. How do I handle boards
wider than 6"? Will the chatter marks on the rough cut lumber impede
getting a smooth surface if I run it through the planer as is? I could
experiment, but why mess up a decent board? G


You can plane right away.. but it will only make the board smooth, not flat.

A planer will take out cup (you maya have to alternatively take a nibble off
each fave if the board is thin or baddly cupped), but it will not remove bow
or twist.

If your stock if pretty straight and you're not too really anal, it will
work just fine. I have an 8" jointer but bump into the same problem
occaisionally. If I want, say a 10" wide (unspliced) single piece of wood
for a pannel, I'll just go directly to the planer (or mitigate as stated
below).


Alternatives a

1. rip to 6" then joint
2. mitigate bow or twist by jointing the 6" that you can and then rotating
to get the other side of the face. take small bites.

3. mitigate bow or twist with an hand plane to knock off the high spots.

BTW always crosscut to rough length first


-Steve

Planer question
 

On Sep 11, 7:25 am, " wrote:
Up to now I have been buying my lumber S4S. I recently purchased a 12"
planer and have a 6" jointer. I'll true the face of any boards less
than 6" on the jointer and then plane to thickness. How do I handle
boards wider than 6"? Will the chatter marks on the rough cut lumber
impede getting a smooth surface if I run it through the planer as is? I
could experiment, but why mess up a decent board? G

Larry

If the board's not too much wider than the jointer's capacity (25%
maybe?) and the grain not too argumentative, I'll pull off the guard
and make a few light passes while turning the board fore and aft. I
can usually get an acceptable/consistant face that'll allow the planer
to flatten the other side just fine, then turn her over and plane the
originally jointed face. Or just rip down to the jointer's width,
mill then glue as StephenM wrote. Tom

Planer question
 

Thanks, guys. I'm picking up some rough cut walnut this weekend and
will give it a try.

tom wrote:
On Sep 11, 7:25 am, " wrote:
Up to now I have been buying my lumber S4S. I recently purchased a 12"
planer and have a 6" jointer. I'll true the face of any boards less
than 6" on the jointer and then plane to thickness. How do I handle
boards wider than 6"? Will the chatter marks on the rough cut lumber
impede getting a smooth surface if I run it through the planer as is? I
could experiment, but why mess up a decent board? G

Larry

If the board's not too much wider than the jointer's capacity (25%
maybe?) and the grain not too argumentative, I'll pull off the guard
and make a few light passes while turning the board fore and aft. I
can usually get an acceptable/consistant face that'll allow the planer
to flatten the other side just fine, then turn her over and plane the
originally jointed face. Or just rip down to the jointer's width,
mill then glue as StephenM wrote. Tom

Planer question
 

On Sep 11, 10:48*am, "StephenM" wrote:
" wrote in message

...

Up to now I have been buying my lumber S4S. *I recently purchased a 12"
planer and have a 6" jointer. *I'll true the face of any boards less than
6" on the jointer and then plane to thickness. *How do I handle boards
wider than 6"? *Will the chatter marks on the rough cut lumber impede
getting a smooth surface if I run it through the planer as is? *I could
experiment, but why mess up a decent board? G

You can plane right away.. but it will only make the board smooth, not flat.

A planer will take out cup (you maya have to alternatively take a nibble off
each fave if the board is thin or baddly cupped), but it will not remove bow
or twist.


With a simple jig you can use a planer to flatten a board.
http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/2006/10/27/ws

Maybe not the most ideal way but it can be done

Planer question
 

" wrote in message
...
Up to now I have been buying my lumber S4S. I recently purchased a 12"
planer and have a 6" jointer. I'll true the face of any boards less than
6" on the jointer and then plane to thickness. How do I handle boards
wider than 6"? Will the chatter marks on the rough cut lumber impede
getting a smooth surface if I run it through the planer as is? I could
experiment, but why mess up a decent board? G

Larry

If the board is relative straight and flat you can go straight to the
plainer. I did that for years. I not, you may be better off using a jig on
the TS to straighten the board and rip it to the capacity of the jointer.

And there is the option of buying S2S which has already been flattened and
is considerably cheaper than S4S.

Planer question
 

In article , "Leon" wrote:

" wrote in message
...
Up to now I have been buying my lumber S4S. I recently purchased a 12"
planer and have a 6" jointer. I'll true the face of any boards less than
6" on the jointer and then plane to thickness. How do I handle boards
wider than 6"? Will the chatter marks on the rough cut lumber impede
getting a smooth surface if I run it through the planer as is? I could
experiment, but why mess up a decent board? G

Larry

If the board is relative straight and flat you can go straight to the
plainer. I did that for years. I not, you may be better off using a jig on
the TS to straighten the board and rip it to the capacity of the jointer.

And there is the option of buying S2S which has already been flattened and
is considerably cheaper than S4S.

Planer question
 

On Fri, 11 Sep 2009 09:25:35 -0500, "
wrote:

Up to now I have been buying my lumber S4S. I recently purchased a 12"
planer and have a 6" jointer. I'll true the face of any boards less
than 6" on the jointer and then plane to thickness. How do I handle
boards wider than 6"? Will the chatter marks on the rough cut lumber
impede getting a smooth surface if I run it through the planer as is? I
could experiment, but why mess up a decent board? G

Larry


Forget about the jointer and run the boards through the planer only,
flipping the board between passes. There are certain guidelines to
follow (in terms of board shape, thickness, hardness etc) when using a
surface planer but a well-tuned planer should handle rough-cut lumber
with ease. Dust collection helps.

Planer question
 

Phisherman wrote:

On Fri, 11 Sep 2009 09:25:35 -0500, "
wrote:

Up to now I have been buying my lumber S4S. I recently purchased a 12"
planer and have a 6" jointer. I'll true the face of any boards less
than 6" on the jointer and then plane to thickness. How do I handle
boards wider than 6"? Will the chatter marks on the rough cut lumber
impede getting a smooth surface if I run it through the planer as is? I
could experiment, but why mess up a decent board? G

Larry


Forget about the jointer and run the boards through the planer only,
flipping the board between passes. There are certain guidelines to
follow (in terms of board shape, thickness, hardness etc) when using a
surface planer but a well-tuned planer should handle rough-cut lumber
with ease. Dust collection helps.


I would have to agree. I just planed out a piece of walnut that was cupped.
I planed a flat on one side, not fully smooth and then flipped it and took
very light passes until I was planing the full board, then back over and
cleaned up the first side. The result was a flat board with two smooth and
flat sides.

Deb

Planer question
 

In article , "Leon" wrote:

And there is the option of buying S2S which has already been flattened and
is considerably cheaper than S4S.

Lest there be any confusion over the meaning of the term "flattened", let's be
specific: S2S lumber has been *planed* on two faces. It has *not* been
jointed.

Planer question
 

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
...
In article , "Leon"
wrote:

And there is the option of buying S2S which has already been flattened and
is considerably cheaper than S4S.

Lest there be any confusion over the meaning of the term "flattened",
let's be
specific: S2S lumber has been *planed* on two faces. It has *not* been
jointed.

Correct, flattened, not straightened. Straightening can easily be and very
accurately done on the TS with a "long sled type taper joint jig", if the
wood is flat.

Planer question
 

"Dr. Deb" wrote in message
...
Phisherman wrote:



I would have to agree. I just planed out a piece of walnut that was
cupped.
I planed a flat on one side, not fully smooth and then flipped it and took
very light passes until I was planing the full board, then back over and
cleaned up the first side. The result was a flat board with two smooth
and
flat sides.

Deb


And this works more often than not if there is generally only one of a few
issues with the board. This is pretty much impossible if the board is
longer and has a bend from end to end and or a twist.

That said, I use a 8' long sled to set my rough cut wood on when sending it
throught my 15" planer.

Planer question
 

On Sep 12, 9:15*am, "Leon" wrote:
"Dr. Deb" wrote in message

...

Phisherman wrote:

I would have to agree. *I just planed out a piece of walnut that was
cupped.
I planed a flat on one side, not fully smooth and then flipped it and took
very light passes until I was planing the full board, then back over and
cleaned up the first side. *The result was a flat board with two smooth
and
flat sides.

Deb

And this works more often than not if there is generally only one of a few
issues with the board. *This is pretty much impossible if the board is
longer and has a bend from end to end and or a twist.

That said, I use a 8' long sled to set my rough cut wood on when sending it
throught my 15" planer.

That is the only accurate and safe way to deal with this. Not a big
deal to make ether.

Planer question
 

Dr. Deb wrote:
....
... I just planed out a piece of walnut that was cupped.
I planed a flat on one side, not fully smooth and then flipped it and took
very light passes until I was planing the full board, then back over and
cleaned up the first side. The result was a flat board with two smooth and
flat sides.

That only works if the piece thickness is sufficient to prevent the
planer feed roller pressure from deforming (flattening) the piece.
Otherwise, one will end up w/ a board of uniform thickness but still cupped.

--

Planer question BAD ADVICE!
 

On Sep 11, 12:26*pm, tom wrote:
On Sep 11, 7:25 am, " wrote:

Up to now I have been buying my lumber S4S. *I recently purchased a 12"
planer and have a 6" jointer. *I'll true the face of any boards less
than 6" on the jointer and then plane to thickness. *How do I handle
boards wider than 6"? *Will the chatter marks on the rough cut lumber
impede getting a smooth surface if I run it through the planer as is? *I
could experiment, but why mess up a decent board? G

Larry

If the board's not too much wider than the jointer's capacity (25%
maybe?) and the grain not too argumentative, I'll pull off the guard
and make a few light passes while turning the board fore and aft. I
can usually get an acceptable/consistant face that'll allow the planer
to flatten the other side just fine, then turn her over and plane the
originally jointed *face. Or just rip down to the jointer's width,
mill then glue as StephenM wrote. *Tom

Pull off the guard on a jointer? Do you have ANY idea how incredibly
dangerous that is?
That guard does more than just cover that meat-grinder. It is also an
anti-kick-back device.

That cutter will pull your hand IN and there will be no hope of
anybody sewing a bucket of slime back onto your wrist.

Planer question BAD ADVICE!
 

On Sat, 12 Sep 2009 06:40:18 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy
wrote:

On Sep 11, 12:26*pm, tom wrote:
On Sep 11, 7:25 am, " wrote:

Up to now I have been buying my lumber S4S. *I recently purchased a 12"
planer and have a 6" jointer. *I'll true the face of any boards less
than 6" on the jointer and then plane to thickness. *How do I handle
boards wider than 6"? *Will the chatter marks on the rough cut lumber
impede getting a smooth surface if I run it through the planer as is? *I
could experiment, but why mess up a decent board? G

Larry

If the board's not too much wider than the jointer's capacity (25%
maybe?) and the grain not too argumentative, I'll pull off the guard
and make a few light passes while turning the board fore and aft. I
can usually get an acceptable/consistant face that'll allow the planer
to flatten the other side just fine, then turn her over and plane the
originally jointed *face. Or just rip down to the jointer's width,
mill then glue as StephenM wrote. *Tom

Pull off the guard on a jointer? Do you have ANY idea how incredibly
dangerous that is?
That guard does more than just cover that meat-grinder. It is also an
anti-kick-back device.

That cutter will pull your hand IN and there will be no hope of
anybody sewing a bucket of slime back onto your wrist.

Wow, I would never remove a jointer guard! There are safer (and
wiser) methods.

Planer question BAD ADVICE!
 

"Phisherman" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 12 Sep 2009 06:40:18 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy
wrote:

On Sep 11, 12:26 pm, tom wrote:
On Sep 11, 7:25 am, " wrote:

Up to now I have been buying my lumber S4S. I recently purchased a 12"
planer and have a 6" jointer. I'll true the face of any boards less
than 6" on the jointer and then plane to thickness. How do I handle
boards wider than 6"? Will the chatter marks on the rough cut lumber
impede getting a smooth surface if I run it through the planer as is?
I
could experiment, but why mess up a decent board? G

Larry

If the board's not too much wider than the jointer's capacity (25%
maybe?) and the grain not too argumentative, I'll pull off the guard
and make a few light passes while turning the board fore and aft. I
can usually get an acceptable/consistant face that'll allow the planer
to flatten the other side just fine, then turn her over and plane the
originally jointed face. Or just rip down to the jointer's width,
mill then glue as StephenM wrote. Tom

Pull off the guard on a jointer? Do you have ANY idea how incredibly
dangerous that is?
That guard does more than just cover that meat-grinder. It is also an
anti-kick-back device.

That cutter will pull your hand IN and there will be no hope of
anybody sewing a bucket of slime back onto your wrist.

Wow, I would never remove a jointer guard! There are safer (and
wiser) methods.

But aren't you supposed to remove the guard to use the ledge to make rabbets
on a joiner? Of course, the fence
should be positioned to cover the unused portion of the blade.

Planer question BAD ADVICE!
 

On Sat, 12 Sep 2009 06:40:18 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy
wrote:


Pull off the guard on a jointer? Do you have ANY idea how incredibly
dangerous that is?
That guard does more than just cover that meat-grinder. It is also an
anti-kick-back device.

That cutter will pull your hand IN and there will be no hope of
anybody sewing a bucket of slime back onto your wrist.


The cutterhead guard on my jointer would never do anything to prevent
kick back.

To use the jointer to cut a rabbet the owner's manual states,

"Rabbet Cut: A rabbet cut is a groove cut along the long edge of the
wood stock, usually used for making simple joints.

The cutterhead guard must be removed for this operation, so great
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
care is needed for safe operation."

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

Planer question BAD ADVICE!
 

"John Siegel" wrote:

But aren't you supposed to remove the guard to use the ledge to make
rabbets on a joiner? Of course, the fence
should be positioned to cover the unused portion of the blade.

Trying to make rabbets with a joiner is a very poor choice of tools
for a task IMHO.

Lew

Planer question BAD ADVICE!
 

On Sep 12, 6:44*pm, Nova wrote:
On Sat, 12 Sep 2009 06:40:18 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy

wrote:

Pull off the guard on a jointer? Do you have ANY idea how incredibly
dangerous that is?
That guard does more than just cover that meat-grinder. It is also an
anti-kick-back device.

That cutter will pull your hand IN and there will be no hope of
anybody sewing a bucket of slime back onto your wrist.

The cutterhead guard on my jointer would never do anything to prevent
kick back.

No pinching cam action?


To use the jointer to cut a rabbet the owner's manual states,

"Rabbet Cut: A rabbet cut is a groove cut along the long edge of the
wood stock, usually used for making simple joints.

The cutterhead guard must be removed for this operation, so great
* * * * * * * * ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
care is needed for safe operation."

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA


I have never seen that done in real life. I can see it will work, but
why do it?

Planer question BAD ADVICE!
 

On Sep 12, 6:40 am, Robatoy wrote:
On Sep 11, 12:26 pm, tom wrote:



On Sep 11, 7:25 am, " wrote:

Up to now I have been buying my lumber S4S. I recently purchased a 12"
planer and have a 6" jointer. I'll true the face of any boards less
than 6" on the jointer and then plane to thickness. How do I handle
boards wider than 6"? Will the chatter marks on the rough cut lumber
impede getting a smooth surface if I run it through the planer as is? I
could experiment, but why mess up a decent board? G

Larry

If the board's not too much wider than the jointer's capacity (25%
maybe?) and the grain not too argumentative, I'll pull off the guard
and make a few light passes while turning the board fore and aft. I
can usually get an acceptable/consistant face that'll allow the planer
to flatten the other side just fine, then turn her over and plane the
originally jointed face. Or just rip down to the jointer's width,
mill then glue as StephenM wrote. Tom

Pull off the guard on a jointer? Do you have ANY idea how incredibly
dangerous that is?
That guard does more than just cover that meat-grinder. It is also an
anti-kick-back device.

That cutter will pull your hand IN and there will be no hope of
anybody sewing a bucket of slime back onto your wrist.

Of course I know the danger involved, and I appreciate your concern. I
probably should have written a disclaimer, huh? A friend of mine got a
fingertip taken off by his jointer. The very same jointer I now own. I
had to make my own guard for this jointer, as the original was lost,
and it's usually on. Unless there are teeth or pawls along the edge of
the guard(which I've never seen), it will not prevent kickback.
There's just not enough pressure against the fence. It merely prevents
a careless hand from dropping down onto the spinning cutterhead. I
have removed the guard, pawls and splitter from my tablesaw, too. It
is_ the_ most dangerous hobby I enjoy. Tom

Planer question BAD ADVICE!
 

On Sat, 12 Sep 2009 06:40:18 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy
wrote:

snip

The cutterhead guard on my jointer would never do anything to prevent
kick back.

To use the jointer to cut a rabbet the owner's manual states,

"Rabbet Cut: A rabbet cut is a groove cut along the long edge of the
wood stock, usually used for making simple joints.

The cutterhead guard must be removed for this operation, so great
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
care is needed for safe operation."


I have never seen that done in real life. I can see it will work, but
why do it?

I've used the jointer for rabbets on the occasions when the rabbet was
wide. One example was transition molding for flooring where the rabbet
was about 2.5" wide and 1/4" deep.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

Planer question BAD ADVICE!
 

"Nova" wrote:

I've used the jointer for rabbets on the occasions when the rabbet
was wide. One example was transition molding for flooring where the
rabbet was about 2.5" wide and 1/4" deep.

Seems like a table saw with a stacked dado or even a router with a jig
similar to a scarfing jig would have been a lot safer.

Lew

Planer question BAD ADVICE!
 

Lew Hodgett wrote:
"John Siegel" wrote:

But aren't you supposed to remove the guard to use the ledge to make
rabbets on a joiner? Of course, the fence
should be positioned to cover the unused portion of the blade.

Trying to make rabbets with a joiner is a very poor choice of tools
for a task IMHO.

Lew


Just about every manual I've seen shows direction for doing it.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Planer question BAD ADVICE!
 

My 1948ish 4" HomeCraft / Delta is built to make a rabbit. Yes, you
remove the pork chop to do it.

Mike in Ohio

Lew Hodgett wrote:
"John Siegel" wrote:

But aren't you supposed to remove the guard to use the ledge to make
rabbets on a joiner? Of course, the fence
should be positioned to cover the unused portion of the blade.

Trying to make rabbets with a joiner is a very poor choice of tools
for a task IMHO.

Lew

Planer question BAD ADVICE!
 

Lew Hodgett wrote:
"John Siegel" wrote:

But aren't you supposed to remove the guard to use the ledge to make
rabbets on a joiner? Of course, the fence
should be positioned to cover the unused portion of the blade.

Trying to make rabbets with a joiner is a very poor choice of tools
for a task IMHO.

It's specifically designed for the task -- that's why there's the
extension table on the front and the rabbet removed for stock clearance
and the support on the rear bed.

Lengthwise, it's the tool of choice...

--

Planer question BAD ADVICE!
 

"dpb" wrote:

It's specifically designed for the task -- that's why there's the
extension table on the front and the rabbet removed for stock
clearance and the support on the rear bed.

Lengthwise, it's the tool of choice...


I'll pass.

Lew

Planer question BAD ADVICE!
 

"Michael Kenefick" wrote:

My 1948ish 4" HomeCraft / Delta is built to make a rabbit. Yes, you
remove the pork chop to do it.

No question you can do it, but IMHO, there are far better (safer)
ways.

Lew

Planer question BAD ADVICE!
 

On Sep 12, 9:44*pm, "Lew Hodgett" wrote:
"dpb" wrote:
It's specifically designed for the task -- that's why there's the
extension table on the front and the rabbet removed for stock
clearance and the support on the rear bed.

Lengthwise, it's the tool of choice...

I'll pass.

Lew

So will I. It is not necessary, not safe and not what a jointer is
designed to do.
If that 'feature' is mentioned, I think it is because that particular
model 'needs' another feature because the rest of it is suspect.

Planer question
 

In article , "Leon" wrote:

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
...
In article , "Leon"
wrote:

And there is the option of buying S2S which has already been flattened and
is considerably cheaper than S4S.

Lest there be any confusion over the meaning of the term "flattened",
let's be
specific: S2S lumber has been *planed* on two faces. It has *not* been
jointed.

Correct, flattened, not straightened. Straightening can easily be and very
accurately done on the TS with a "long sled type taper joint jig", if the
wood is flat.

If it hasn't been jointed, I wouldn't say that it's been "flattened". The
straightening you describe on the TS makes an edge straight, but not a face.
To make a face both straight and flat, the board needs to be jointed -- not
necessarily with a jointer. Other techniques include hand-planing, machine
planing with a sled, or using a router and jig. (Note that I'm not disagreeing
with you -- I know you know all that already -- I'm just trying to make sure
the OP understands the difference.)

Planer question BAD ADVICE!
 

Robatoy wrote:
On Sep 12, 9:44 pm, "Lew Hodgett" wrote:
"dpb" wrote:
It's specifically designed for the task -- that's why there's the
extension table on the front and the rabbet removed for stock
clearance and the support on the rear bed.
Lengthwise, it's the tool of choice...
I'll pass.

Lew

So will I. It is not necessary, not safe and not what a jointer is
designed to do.

It almost always has been a design feature -- look at any vintage text
or manufacturer's literature. That either one may be too young to have
learned it or simply started after the router became ubiquitous is quite
likely a major factor...

It still works "most excellent" for the purpose...

--

Planer question BAD ADVICE!
 

"dpb" wrote:

It almost always has been a design feature -- look at any vintage
text or manufacturer's literature. That either one may be too young
to have learned it or simply started after the router became
ubiquitous is quite likely a major factor...

It still works "most excellent" for the purpose...

There was also a time when blood letting was considered state of the
art medical practice.

Lew

Planer question BAD ADVICE!
 

On Sep 12, 11:51*pm, dpb wrote:
Robatoy wrote:
On Sep 12, 9:44 pm, "Lew Hodgett" wrote:
"dpb" wrote:
It's specifically designed for the task -- that's why there's the
extension table on the front and the rabbet removed for stock
clearance and the support on the rear bed.
Lengthwise, it's the tool of choice...
I'll pass.

Lew

So will I. It is not necessary, not safe and not what a jointer is
designed to do.

It almost always has been a design feature -- look at any vintage text
or manufacturer's literature. *That either one may be too young to have
learned it or simply started after the router became ubiquitous is quite
likely a major factor...

It still works "most excellent" for the purpose...


Why do something dangerous when it can be done safely?

Planer question BAD ADVICE!
 

Robatoy wrote:

It still works "most excellent" for the purpose...


Why do something dangerous when it can be done safely?


The way it is described in my manual, it's no more dangerous than using
a router.
Only a small portion of the blade is uncovered, about the same size as a
router bit.
I don't see any more chance of your hand going into the blade than with
a router table.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Planer question BAD ADVICE!
 

"John Siegel" wrote in message
...

"Phisherman" wrote in message
...

Wow, I would never remove a jointer guard! There are safer (and
wiser) methods.

But aren't you supposed to remove the guard to use the ledge to make
rabbets on a joiner? Of course, the fence
should be positioned to cover the unused portion of the blade.

Yes... and I'm a bit puzzled about why using a jointer for rabbeting is
viewed as extraordinarily dangerous... My Delta DJ-20 has a rabbeting ledge
and I wouldn't call that machine a gimmick laden tool... The 6" Reliant I
had before that also had a rebatting ledge. In use the fence and uncut
portion of the board cover the cutter whereas for jointing a combination of
the board, fence and guard cover the cutter. The difference being that in
the former some cutter is exposed when no board is being fed through and in
the later the cutter is covered whether there is a board being fed through
or not.

In most applications I've encountered the board is run on edge along the
fence so no more cutter is exposed in this operation than would be exposed
using a dado cutter in a table saw... With wide rabbets the board is run
through flat on the tables. Again the entire cutter is covered by the fence
and the board. Here is a case where the jointer may beat out the table saw
as you can cut a very wide rabbet with the board well supported and the
cutter unexposed. Table saw dado cutters on the other hand are typically an
inch or less wide and wide rebbates on the table saw require multiple passes
and the rebatted area is unsupported by the tool.

On the DJ-20 long boards are well supported due to the long in feed and out
feed tables. I cannot say that about boards run through my shaper as
discontinuous stands are needed to support the board. I'd never use my bench
top router table for such purposes as it's too small to support long boards
and is underpowered. Molding cutters on my molder/planer will do the job but
between installing the cutters and building feed guides set up is very time
consuming. However, if I were doing 1,000s of linear feet that would be the
machine of choice for me.... between the pressure rollers and guides the
board is well controlled with little user influence. For small quantities of
short boards I generally make two to four cuts on the table saw with a combo
blade for rebates or use a plow plane for the task if solid wood is
involved.

I've come to the conclusion that I am the most dangerous tool in my shop...
the only shop injuries I've sustained outside of splinters or cuts from the
sharp corners of boards occurred when I was fatigued and rushing. They both
involved kickbacks on the table saw and resulted in nasty bruises. In one
case I failed to reinstall the T-Splitter for a through cut after making
non-through cuts, this as "I only had one cut to make" and in my fatigued
state didn't control the board properly. In the other case, again in a
fatigued state, I turned the saw off and accidently dropped the small,
roughly 4" x 8", piece of oak veneer plywood onto the still spinning blade
while trying to pick up the wood. In both cases that marked quitting time as
I was clearly too tired to continue.

The comfort level experienced by users boils down to what specific tools are
available and the attentiveness and skill of the user. I figure that any one
of my floor, stand, bench top, or hand power tools, and even my meat powered
tools, can bite me if I don't do my part. Overall, I suspect that abused and
improperly used screw drivers rank very high on the "tools that injure" list
and they are about as simple a tool as there is!

John

Planer question BAD ADVICE!
 

In article , "John Grossbohlin" wrote:

[long post trimmed to its bare essentials]

I've come to the conclusion that I am the most dangerous tool in my shop...

Amen. Well stated. We would all do well to keep that in the forefront of our
minds.

Planer question BAD ADVICE!
 

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
...
In article , "John
Grossbohlin" wrote:

[long post trimmed to its bare essentials]

I've come to the conclusion that I am the most dangerous tool in my
shop...

Amen. Well stated. We would all do well to keep that in the forefront of
our
minds.

Agreed there.

I have always maintained that it is not "if" you will get hurt in the shop,
it is "when" you will get hurt in the shop.
After 30 years of serious woodworking I look back on my first 10 years and
think, I only thought I knew all the safety precautions to take.

Planer question BAD ADVICE!
 

Robatoy wrote:
....

Why do something dangerous when it can be done safely?

Where do you get the dangerous bit from?

Look at the instruction manual picture at

http://www.dewaltservicenet.com/documents/English/Instruction%20Manual/Delta/EnA06586.pdf


p21, Fig. 43. and tell me what you see as a problem.

--

Planer question BAD ADVICE!
 

Lew Hodgett wrote:
"dpb" wrote:

It almost always has been a design feature -- look at any vintage
text or manufacturer's literature. That either one may be too young
to have learned it or simply started after the router became
ubiquitous is quite likely a major factor...

It still works "most excellent" for the purpose...

There was also a time when blood letting was considered state of the
art medical practice.


Actually, in some forms it again is...

--

Planer question BAD ADVICE!
 

On Sep 13, 11:41*am, dpb wrote:
Robatoy wrote:

...

Why do something dangerous when it can be done safely?

Where do you get the dangerous bit from?

Look at the instruction manual picture at

http://www.dewaltservicenet.com/documents/English/Instruction%20Manua...

p21, Fig. 43. *and tell me what you see as a problem.

--

I see that the cutter is covered when the fence is all the way over to
the edge.
How is kick-back covered?