I am contemplating replacing my 14" bandsaw and tablesaw with a bigger
bandsaw. I think I have a handle on the good and bad points of that scheme.
(but if you have any profound insights...)

My 14" is 1hp and certainly wouldn't rip fast enough to replace a TS. The
bigger ones are 2hp up to 5hp. How big do I have to go before it will rip
4/4 oak satisfactorily? (sure, I cut 8/4 ocassionally, but not often enough
to worry about it.) I would prefer to keep it on a 20a circuit, but can
certainly put in a 30a circuit if 3hp won't cut it.

Toller wrote:
I am contemplating replacing my 14" bandsaw and tablesaw with a bigger
bandsaw.

The
bigger ones are 2hp up to 5hp. How big do I have to go before it
will rip
4/4 oak satisfactorily?

Unless you have 3 phase power, 2HP is about the upper limit.

Lew

Toller wrote:
I am contemplating replacing my 14" bandsaw and tablesaw with a bigger
bandsaw. I think I have a handle on the good and bad points of that scheme.
(but if you have any profound insights...)

My 14" is 1hp and certainly wouldn't rip fast enough to replace a TS. The
bigger ones are 2hp up to 5hp. How big do I have to go before it will rip
4/4 oak satisfactorily? (sure, I cut 8/4 ocassionally, but not often enough
to worry about it.) I would prefer to keep it on a 20a circuit, but can
certainly put in a 30a circuit if 3hp won't cut it.

I don't think a bandsaw is a good substitute for a tablesaw no matter
what the capacity. Personally, I'd upgrade the tablesaw first.

DonkeyHody
"If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a
nail." - Abraham Maslow

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
news
Toller wrote:
I am contemplating replacing my 14" bandsaw and tablesaw with a bigger
bandsaw.

The
bigger ones are 2hp up to 5hp. How big do I have to go before it
will rip
4/4 oak satisfactorily?

Unless you have 3 phase power, 2HP is about the upper limit.

Geez no; you can get 3hp on a 20a circuit and 5hp on a 30a circuit.

One horse is roughly 1200w.

"DonkeyHody" wrote in message
ups.com...

Toller wrote:
I am contemplating replacing my 14" bandsaw and tablesaw with a bigger
bandsaw. I think I have a handle on the good and bad points of that
scheme.
(but if you have any profound insights...)

My 14" is 1hp and certainly wouldn't rip fast enough to replace a TS.
The
bigger ones are 2hp up to 5hp. How big do I have to go before it will
rip
4/4 oak satisfactorily? (sure, I cut 8/4 ocassionally, but not often
enough
to worry about it.) I would prefer to keep it on a 20a circuit, but can
certainly put in a 30a circuit if 3hp won't cut it.

I don't think a bandsaw is a good substitute for a tablesaw no matter
what the capacity. Personally, I'd upgrade the tablesaw first.

I have a severe space problem. No room to upgrade the TS. My hope is to
upgrade the BS and get rid of the TS. Some people claim it works
wonderfully; others agree with you.

Band saws are wonderful tools for cutting crooked edges in wood. Table saws
are wonderfull for cutting straight edges in wood. While you can do either
on either saw each has it's best use. If you want to get straight edges
with a band saw you will need a lot of skill or a planner and jointer to
help out. Your best bet IMO is to make room to upgrade the TS or get a RAS
and learn to use it.
"Toller" wrote in message
...
I am contemplating replacing my 14" bandsaw and tablesaw with a bigger
bandsaw. I think I have a handle on the good and bad points of that
scheme. (but if you have any profound insights...)

My 14" is 1hp and certainly wouldn't rip fast enough to replace a TS.
The bigger ones are 2hp up to 5hp. How big do I have to go before it will
rip 4/4 oak satisfactorily? (sure, I cut 8/4 ocassionally, but not often
enough to worry about it.) I would prefer to keep it on a 20a circuit,
but can certainly put in a 30a circuit if 3hp won't cut it.

"Toller" wrote in message
...
I am contemplating replacing my 14" bandsaw and tablesaw with a bigger
bandsaw. I think I have a handle on the good and bad points of that
scheme. (but if you have any profound insights...)

My 14" is 1hp and certainly wouldn't rip fast enough to replace a TS.
The bigger ones are 2hp up to 5hp. How big do I have to go before it will
rip 4/4 oak satisfactorily? (sure, I cut 8/4 ocassionally, but not often
enough to worry about it.) I would prefer to keep it on a 20a circuit,
but can certainly put in a 30a circuit if 3hp won't cut it.

Toller wrote:

Geez no; you can get 3hp on a 20a circuit and 5hp on a 30a circuit.

One horse is roughly 1200w.

Don't give up your day job to go into the electrical business.

At least, not just yetG.

Lew

In article . net, Lew
Hodgett wrote:

Toller wrote:

Geez no; you can get 3hp on a 20a circuit and 5hp on a 30a circuit.

One horse is roughly 1200w.

Don't give up your day job to go into the electrical business.

At least, not just yetG.

You mean I don't *really* have a 3HP shop vacuum?

494 horsepower. 493 would be to small.

"Toller" wrote in message
...
I am contemplating replacing my 14" bandsaw and tablesaw with a bigger
bandsaw. I think I have a handle on the good and bad points of that
scheme.
(but if you have any profound insights...)

My 14" is 1hp and certainly wouldn't rip fast enough to replace a TS.
The
bigger ones are 2hp up to 5hp. How big do I have to go before it will rip
4/4 oak satisfactorily? (sure, I cut 8/4 ocassionally, but not often
enough
to worry about it.) I would prefer to keep it on a 20a circuit, but can
certainly put in a 30a circuit if 3hp won't cut it.

Dave Balderstone wrote:

You mean I don't *really* have a 3HP shop vacuum?

Does it have a 182 frame?G

Lew

In article , says...

I have a severe space problem. No room to upgrade the TS. My hope is to
upgrade the BS and get rid of the TS. Some people claim it works
wonderfully; others agree with you.


Too damn right it works. I don't own a table saw, I don't want one and I have
never needed one. I rather have a couple of narrow assembly tables take up the
space. And I worry a lot less about counting my fingers.
Between the BS and the Radial Arm I can achieve anything I want to; 8'x4'
sheets I cut with the skilly in any event.

Just goes to show how Your Mileage May Vary grin

-Peter

--
=========================================
firstname dot lastname at gmail fullstop com

In article , says...

I am contemplating replacing my 14" bandsaw and tablesaw with a bigger
bandsaw. I think I have a handle on the good and bad points of that scheme.
(but if you have any profound insights...)


My 18" saw has a 2 horse motor and I haven't been able to slow it down, nor
make it labour. I have some fairly fine blades at the moment (6 tpi down to 14)
and the speed limit is inherent in how much sawdust the blade can carry out of
the kerf.
Lots of power to spare, in my opinion, on a 6" ripping depth. Might be
different if I went to a 3 tpi blade, I can't say since I haven't tried yet.

-P.

--
=========================================
firstname dot lastname at gmail fullstop com

Lew Hodgett wrote:
Toller wrote:

Geez no; you can get 3hp on a 20a circuit and 5hp on a 30a circuit.

One horse is roughly 1200w.

Don't give up your day job to go into the electrical business.

Those numbers aren't all that bad. The amerages are reasonable numbers
for a 240V motor, as long as the breakers protecting the wires are sized
for the startup load.

The wattage number is a bit wonky, though still in the ballpark.

1HP is 746 watts, plus power factor correction, plus efficiency correction.

Chris

In article ,
Peter Huebner wrote:
In article , says...

I am contemplating replacing my 14" bandsaw and tablesaw with a bigger
bandsaw. I think I have a handle on the good and bad points of that scheme.
(but if you have any profound insights...)


My 18" saw has a 2 horse motor and I haven't been able to slow it down, nor
make it labour. I have some fairly fine blades at the moment (6 tpi down to 14)
and the speed limit is inherent in how much sawdust the blade can carry out of
the kerf.
Lots of power to spare, in my opinion, on a 6" ripping depth. Might be
different if I went to a 3 tpi blade, I can't say since I haven't tried yet.

-P.

--
=========================================
firstname dot lastname at gmail fullstop com

What I'd like to know is, if the OP goes for an 18" bandsaw like this,
what does he do when he needs to rip two 20" X 96" pieces from a
single sheet of plywood?

--
Contentment makes poor men rich. Discontent makes rich men poor.
--Benjamin Franklin
Larry Wasserman - Baltimore, Maryland -

In article ,
says...

What I'd like to know is, if the OP goes for an 18" bandsaw like this,
what does he do when he needs to rip two 20" X 96" pieces from a
single sheet of plywood?


He can do what I do: clamp an aluminium rail to the ply as a fence and cut it
with a skilsaw. (that's where the two assembly tables come in handy: you cut
between the tables). I get my ply and mdf panels accurate to around 0.5mm that
way (~1/50"), which is way more accurate than I could ever manage on a common
or garden tablesaw.

-P.

--
=========================================
firstname dot lastname at gmail fullstop com

I have a severe space problem. No room to upgrade the TS. My hope is to
upgrade the BS and get rid of the TS.

I'll bet you have plenty of room you just haven't considered yet. A
tablesaw wouldn't take up any more room than that big table and all
those chairs in your dining room. Or you could just move the sofa out
and put it there. You just have to get your priorities straight. Once
you do that, you'll find the room.


DonkeyHody
"The cheapest things in life are free."

"Toller" wrote in message
...
I am contemplating replacing my 14" bandsaw and tablesaw with a bigger
bandsaw. I think I have a handle on the good and bad points of that
scheme. (but if you have any profound insights...)

My 14" is 1hp and certainly wouldn't rip fast enough to replace a TS.
The bigger ones are 2hp up to 5hp. How big do I have to go before it will
rip 4/4 oak satisfactorily? (sure, I cut 8/4 ocassionally, but not often
enough to worry about it.) I would prefer to keep it on a 20a circuit,
but can certainly put in a 30a circuit if 3hp won't cut it.



If you can't rip 4/4 or even 8/4 as fast as you can control it with a one
horse, you're going to want a real monster.

Better to consider your saw by the width of blade it will tension than the
ponies in the bottom. That's where the accuracy comes in. Get something in
the 18-24 range that will take a fairly thick 1" or better blade, and if
there's an option, you can go for the higher rated motor. 20A (actually ~10
continuous) @ 230 will haul a couple horse easy, which is about the upper
limit for single belt, so I'd look for double or ribbed.

Keep your tablesaw. You can maneuver everything you're using the bandsaw
for over that top, and everyone needs a good flat assembly area.

"Chris Friesen" wrote in message
...
Lew Hodgett wrote:
Toller wrote:

Geez no; you can get 3hp on a 20a circuit and 5hp on a 30a circuit.

One horse is roughly 1200w.

Don't give up your day job to go into the electrical business.

Those numbers aren't all that bad. The amerages are reasonable numbers
for a 240V motor, as long as the breakers protecting the wires are sized
for the startup load.

The wattage number is a bit wonky, though still in the ballpark.

1HP is 746 watts, plus power factor correction, plus efficiency
correction.

1200w is 10a at 120v. A 1hp motor is typically 10a, 1.5hp 15a, ans 2hp 20a.
Then, going into 240v, a 3hp is 15a. The wattage number isn't the least bit
wonky. Now some motors are more or less efficient; my 2hp TS motor only
draws 17a, but it was 50% more expensive than the same manufacturer's 20a
2hp motor.

"Peter Huebner" wrote in message
t...
In article , says...

I have a severe space problem. No room to upgrade the TS. My hope is to
upgrade the BS and get rid of the TS. Some people claim it works
wonderfully; others agree with you.


Too damn right it works. I don't own a table saw, I don't want one and I
have
never needed one. I rather have a couple of narrow assembly tables take up
the
space. And I worry a lot less about counting my fingers.
Between the BS and the Radial Arm I can achieve anything I want to; 8'x4'
sheets I cut with the skilly in any event.

What do you use your RAS for?

"George" wrote in message
t...

"Toller" wrote in message
...
I am contemplating replacing my 14" bandsaw and tablesaw with a bigger
bandsaw. I think I have a handle on the good and bad points of that
scheme. (but if you have any profound insights...)

My 14" is 1hp and certainly wouldn't rip fast enough to replace a TS. The
bigger ones are 2hp up to 5hp. How big do I have to go before it will
rip 4/4 oak satisfactorily? (sure, I cut 8/4 ocassionally, but not often
enough to worry about it.) I would prefer to keep it on a 20a circuit,
but can certainly put in a 30a circuit if 3hp won't cut it.



If you can't rip 4/4 or even 8/4 as fast as you can control it with a one
horse, you're going to want a real monster.

Better to consider your saw by the width of blade it will tension than the
ponies in the bottom. That's where the accuracy comes in. Get something
in the 18-24 range that will take a fairly thick 1" or better blade, and
if there's an option, you can go for the higher rated motor. 20A
(actually ~10 continuous) @ 230 will haul a couple horse easy, which is
about the upper limit for single belt, so I'd look for double or ribbed.

I had my eye on the 21" 3hp Grizzly. I just didn't want to be "penny-wise,
pound-foolish" by not spending another $500 and getting either something
better or more powerful.

Keep your tablesaw. You can maneuver everything you're using the bandsaw
for over that top, and everyone needs a good flat assembly area.

You know, that a darn good idea. I would have to leave the space behind the
BS empty anyhow; I can just stick the TS there as an outfeed table! I
already, due to lack of space for anything else, use it as an assembly table
and router table.

"Dave Balderstone" wrote in message
news:291120062247566477%dave@N_O_T_T_H_I_Sbalderst one.ca...
In article . net, Lew
Hodgett wrote:

Toller wrote:

Geez no; you can get 3hp on a 20a circuit and 5hp on a 30a circuit.

One horse is roughly 1200w.

Don't give up your day job to go into the electrical business.

At least, not just yetG.

You mean I don't *really* have a 3HP shop vacuum?

Not unless it is 3600w.

Peter Huebner wrote:
Too damn right it works. I don't own a table saw, I don't want one and I have
never needed one. I rather have a couple of narrow assembly tables take up the
space. And I worry a lot less about counting my fingers.
Between the BS and the Radial Arm I can achieve anything I want to; 8'x4'
sheets I cut with the skilly in any event.

Like Peter, I don't own a table saw. I just have a 14" bandsaw.

My question is this: How significantly does the motor size impact
cutting speed? My saw is 1 HP and I don't feel like I am bogging it
down, especially with 4/4 material. I have certainly never even come
close to stalling it, even when resawing.

The blade seems to be a much bigger factor. Carbon steel blades dull
very quickly and dull blades cut slowly. I noticed a huge improvement
when I moved to bi-metal blades.

Mark

I have a friend with a big ass bandsaw... Very
expensive and highly tuned.

He calls it the world's largest pocket knife
when the conversation comes up about accuracy.



sweet sawdust wrote:

Band saws are wonderful tools for cutting crooked edges in wood. Table saws
are wonderfull for cutting straight edges in wood.

On Thu, 30 Nov 2006 00:46:47 +0000, Toller wrote:

I am contemplating replacing my 14" bandsaw and tablesaw with a bigger
bandsaw. I think I have a handle on the good and bad points of that scheme.
(but if you have any profound insights...)

My 14" is 1hp and certainly wouldn't rip fast enough to replace a TS. The
bigger ones are 2hp up to 5hp. How big do I have to go before it will rip
4/4 oak satisfactorily? (sure, I cut 8/4 ocassionally, but not often enough
to worry about it.) I would prefer to keep it on a 20a circuit, but can
certainly put in a 30a circuit if 3hp won't cut it.

Horsepower per se shouldn't make a difference in cutting speed--it's the
blade speed and the blade design that decide that. As long as there's
enough power to keep the blade going at full speed at the feed rate
that you're using there's no advantage to be gained by more power.

How fast is it cutting, i.e. how many seconds does it take you to go
through a foot of 4/4 oak?

First thing to check--is your saw a single-speed saw or does it have more
than one speed? If it's not single-speed then make sure it's on its
highest blade speed--if it's not that would cause it to cut slowly. Next
thing, what kind of blade do you have in it? A blade designed for
resawing thick lumber will cut more slowly on thin lumber than one that
was designed for that purpose. The blades that come in bandsaws are
usually pieces of crap. Every once in a while you may find a good one but
don't count on it.





--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

"Mark Wells" wrote in message
oups.com...
Peter Huebner wrote:
Too damn right it works. I don't own a table saw, I don't want one and I
have
never needed one. I rather have a couple of narrow assembly tables take
up the
space. And I worry a lot less about counting my fingers.
Between the BS and the Radial Arm I can achieve anything I want to; 8'x4'
sheets I cut with the skilly in any event.

Like Peter, I don't own a table saw. I just have a 14" bandsaw.

My question is this: How significantly does the motor size impact
cutting speed? My saw is 1 HP and I don't feel like I am bogging it
down, especially with 4/4 material. I have certainly never even come
close to stalling it, even when resawing.

The blade seems to be a much bigger factor. Carbon steel blades dull
very quickly and dull blades cut slowly. I noticed a huge improvement
when I moved to bi-metal blades.

I am taking a turning course at a local HS. They have a 24" Powermatic.
With a worn out blade it cuts 12/4 oak like butter. My 14" 1hp would cut
it, but much slower and less precisely.

Pat Barber wrote:
I have a friend with a big ass bandsaw... Very
expensive and highly tuned.

He calls it the world's largest pocket knife
when the conversation comes up about accuracy.

Have you ever seen the pictures/video of Sam Maloof freehand "carving"
chair arms on his bigass bandsaw? Crazy. The only bit touching the
table is one corner.

Of course, he freely advises that it is a very dangerous technique...

Chris

Toller wrote:
You know, that a darn good idea. I would have to leave the space behind the
BS empty anyhow; I can just stick the TS there as an outfeed table! I
already, due to lack of space for anything else, use it as an assembly table
and router table.

I'm glad you decided that. It seems like it's a crapshoot about how
much value you get for a used tool anyhow. You're better off just
keeping the tablesaw. Get a mobile base. Push it into a corner or
something when not in use. You're already using it as a router table.

"Toller" wrote in
:

I am taking a turning course at a local HS. They have a 24"
Powermatic. With a worn out blade it cuts 12/4 oak like butter. My
14" 1hp would cut it, but much slower and less precisely.


Well, yeah, but have you _priced_ a 24" Powermatic? ;-) That's one serious
wooddorking tool.

The choice of tools in your shop is up to you, and your checkbook, and
those who also have some claim on your checkbook. I've come to the
conclusion that, for now, I'll find a way to do without a big bandsaw. I
miss it, though.

Good luck on the gloat finding.

Patriarch

Perhaps you might want to upgrade the motor on your present 14"
bandsaw?

A question for the group...what is the largest HP motor that can be
reasonably mounted on a 14" bandsaw (like a Delta)?

Would it matter if it were a wood or wood/metal version of the saw?

Maybe a 3 phase with VFD so you would have a variable speed saw?

TMT

Toller wrote:
I am contemplating replacing my 14" bandsaw and tablesaw with a bigger
bandsaw. I think I have a handle on the good and bad points of that scheme.
(but if you have any profound insights...)

My 14" is 1hp and certainly wouldn't rip fast enough to replace a TS. The
bigger ones are 2hp up to 5hp. How big do I have to go before it will rip
4/4 oak satisfactorily? (sure, I cut 8/4 ocassionally, but not often enough
to worry about it.) I would prefer to keep it on a 20a circuit, but can
certainly put in a 30a circuit if 3hp won't cut it.

Thu, Nov 30, 2006, 12:46am (EST+5) (Toller) did post
another question, that I snipped.

Well, if you're doing it for a living, I can see where it would
matter. Somehow I don't think you're doing it for a living.

Me, my bandsaw is, I think, 1/3 hp. And it does evrything I need,
or want, it to do. So, I guess that means 1/3 hp is powerfule enough -
for me.

For you, why don't you just buy a small bandsaw mill and get it
over with?



JOAT
Democratic justice. One man, one rock.

In article , says...

"Peter Huebner" wrote in message
t...
In article , says...

I have a severe space problem. No room to upgrade the TS. My hope is to
upgrade the BS and get rid of the TS. Some people claim it works
wonderfully; others agree with you.


Too damn right it works. I don't own a table saw, I don't want one and I
have
never needed one. I rather have a couple of narrow assembly tables take up
the
space. And I worry a lot less about counting my fingers.
Between the BS and the Radial Arm I can achieve anything I want to; 8'x4'
sheets I cut with the skilly in any event.

What do you use your RAS for?

Cross cutting, roughing out lap joints, making tenons. Very very rarely I might
rip a weathergroove or do something like that. Mitres are a little tricky cause
the forces on the blade tends to deflect the angle on the arm, but then I
expect something similar to happen on tablesaws.

-P.

--
=========================================
firstname dot lastname at gmail fullstop com

You don't learn well, do you?

"Toller" wrote in message
...
You mean I don't *really* have a 3HP shop vacuum?

Not unless it is 3600w.

Toller wrote:
I am taking a turning course at a local HS. They have a 24" Powermatic.
With a worn out blade it cuts 12/4 oak like butter. My 14" 1hp would cut
it, but much slower and less precisely.

What kind of blade does the HS have and what kind do you have
(material, width, tooth pattern and tpi)? I still think that the blade
may be the main difference. If the blades wanders back and forth as
you cut, then it is dull. You can watch that happen as you push the
wood through the blade.

Also, I have found that if you have some kind of misalignment in the
board, fence, or table that will cause the board to bind the blade,
that it will be significantly harder to push. I have definitely
experienced that when resawing, but I don't think I have ever
experienced that with 4/4 stock.

Mark

"Mark Wells" wrote in message
ps.com...
Toller wrote:
I am taking a turning course at a local HS. They have a 24" Powermatic.
With a worn out blade it cuts 12/4 oak like butter. My 14" 1hp would cut
it, but much slower and less precisely.

What kind of blade does the HS have and what kind do you have
(material, width, tooth pattern and tpi)? I still think that the blade
may be the main difference.

Well, guides are more important than teeth in controlling wander, unless
someone's dinged the right-set side. It's overall stiffness that counts
here, as elsewhere. The tension, thickness of the blade, the width and the
guides all go toward making it a saw rather than a floppy piece of metal
being dragged through the board.

Within limits, as we know, slowing the feed will allow rotational inertia
from a 1/2 horse to cut 6" deep. Did it for years on the old Sears saw.
Took a while, though. Wet wood for turning stock could be a real nightmare,
but it's no pleasure on the current Delta and one horse, either.

wrote:

What I'd like to know is, if the OP goes for an 18" bandsaw like this,
what does he do when he needs to rip two 20" X 96" pieces from a
single sheet of plywood?

I cut those with my phone.

My plywood storage racks aren't in my own workshop and they don't have
my business name over the door. OTOH I don't need to pay rent on the
space, I don't have capital tied up in the vast range of stock, and
best of all there's a a guy there with a lovely plywood panel saw who
can cut anything I want to any size I want.

If it's a cut simple enough that I can describe it over the phone, I
just have them do it before I pick it up. Tomorrow morning I need to
pick up a sheet ripped into 16" strips. I could have ripped this down
myself, but I'd need to tidy the workshop first to fit an 8x4 through
the cabinet saw, and borrow a friend to help carry it. Having the
supplier (Avon Plywood) do it for me instead saves me a _lot_ of time
and trouble, and the extra cost of cutting charges would barely pay the
extra tea bill of having assistants over to help out.

wrote in message
ups.com...

wrote:

What I'd like to know is, if the OP goes for an 18" bandsaw like this,
what does he do when he needs to rip two 20" X 96" pieces from a
single sheet of plywood?

I cut those with my phone.

My plywood storage racks aren't in my own workshop and they don't have
my business name over the door. OTOH I don't need to pay rent on the
space, I don't have capital tied up in the vast range of stock, and
best of all there's a a guy there with a lovely plywood panel saw who
can cut anything I want to any size I want.

If it's a cut simple enough that I can describe it over the phone, I
just have them do it before I pick it up. Tomorrow morning I need to
pick up a sheet ripped into 16" strips. I could have ripped this down
myself, but I'd need to tidy the workshop first to fit an 8x4 through
the cabinet saw, and borrow a friend to help carry it. Having the
supplier (Avon Plywood) do it for me instead saves me a _lot_ of time
and trouble, and the extra cost of cutting charges would barely pay the
extra tea bill of having assistants over to help out.

The only place near me that sells furniture grade plywood charges $3/cut. I
have to get at least one to get it home, but hurts to pay for something I
could do myself. I really have to get over that, don't I?

"Mark Wells" wrote in message
ps.com...
Toller wrote:
I am taking a turning course at a local HS. They have a 24" Powermatic.
With a worn out blade it cuts 12/4 oak like butter. My 14" 1hp would cut
it, but much slower and less precisely.

What kind of blade does the HS have and what kind do you have
(material, width, tooth pattern and tpi)? I still think that the blade
may be the main difference.

Well, I think part of it is that the big bandsaws move 50% faster than the
small ones; that has to help.

In article , "Toller" wrote:

The only place near me that sells furniture grade plywood charges $3/cut. I
have to get at least one to get it home, but hurts to pay for something I
could do myself. I really have to get over that, don't I?

Especially when it's that cheap.

How long does it take you to make the cut(s) yourself? How much is your time
worth? When you look at it that way, I'll bet that three bucks starts to sound
like a bargain.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.